Balsa USA Smoothie RC Plane Kit Build No 3 Wing Construction Part 1

In this video I start construction of the wing. The wing construction starts with laying down the main wing spar, followed by placing the ribs and upper spar. The wing has a symmetrical airfoil so both wings can be constructed on the same half wing plan.
The Balsa USA Smoothie kit is a 40 class (size) sport plane and has been around for a long time and is still readily available on the Balsa USA website. For this balsa kit build I will use traditional rc plane kit build techniques.
In each build series episode I will focus a different aspect of the build including the wing, fuselage, tail section rudder and elevator, engine mount, landing gear, tail gear, engine set up (OS Engines .46 AXII), fuel tank, servos and receiver (Futaba), control rods and horns, Monokote covering, carving and shaping wood, using CA glue (Zap CA glue, Starbond CA glue), epoxies (JB Weld, Bob Smith Industries, Z-poxy finishing resin), tools and everything thing else involved with building a radio control plane kit (RC Airplane kit).
I have been building, flying, crashing, modifying, and repairing radio control planes for many years and enjoy sharing what I do with the radio control plane community, so I started RC Plane Tech channel.
My methods of building rc plane kits, maintenance, running engines and equipment, and flying are not the only way to do things. I always recommend checking other sources and learning from others. I do not consider myself an "expert" but just a guy who has been doing this stuff for a while and enjoys sharing what I know and learning from others.
I fly with Futaba radio equipment, OS Max engines and Saito engines, Master Airscrew Propellers and APC propellers, Sullivan RC fuel tanks and hardware, Dubro RC fuel tanks and hardware and typically run Morgan Omega and Powermaster glow fuels. I fly ARF rc planes, but I also really like to build rc plane kits including Balsa USA RC kits, House of Balsa, Royal and Marutaka RC kits, Sig RC Kits. I use Monokote and other RC covering fabrics.

[@mikewaller4141]

Thanks for sharing, I am a modeller of 35 years and picked up some tips from you! Thanks Mike from the UK.

[@JamesRCPlaneTech]

Awesome, Thanks. I do the same, there is always something to learn out there from others sharing their experiences

[@Vdubin64bug]

I just ordered some machinist blocks.. Thank you for the explanation on them.. I'm currently building a Great Planes Cap 232 WING.. I just got everything set up on my building board and haven't set any ribs just yet.. I'll wait for these to arrive in the mail.. I usually use the upright tool from House of Balsa but, I have a feeling that I'll like these even better.. I purchased two built Caps from an Rc estate sale.. Neither had a wing, so, I'll be getting one together.. Rob Reynolds was kind enough to kit me a wing set for less than $40 shipped.. Can't beat that.. Great video!!

[@JamesRCPlaneTech]

Awesome! I like the Caps, cool planes. Thats one Ive looked at before. And good luck with the build!

[@kennethturner8212]

Really happy I found this channel! Your attention to detail is awesome! I also like how much info, on everything from tools to techniques, you relay back to us viewers! Thank you for taking the time to put all of this content out for the rest is us to learn, and enjoy!

[@JamesRCPlaneTech]

Thank you for the nice comments and feedback. I appreciate it.

[@stevemerrill7430]

I've built two Smoothies. The newest, about a year or two ago. I used an AXI 700KV brushless motor, 50amp Castle ICE ESC, and 4000 mah 4-cell lipo. Dual wing servos. Flies great!

[@JamesRCPlaneTech]

Thats great! Im looking forward to flying it . Great plane for electric and gas/glow. I have to step up the build speed.

[@misterbacon4933]

It's amazing how you can tell continues without any hum or uh. And also your editing with the background music is perfect. Sometimes loud when nothing important is told. Also what you're telling is all relevant. Perfect! Greetings from the Netherlands! 🇳🇱

[@JamesRCPlaneTech]

Thanks for the feedback. I dont have the best equipment so sometimes it gets poor quality. I have not found a good microphone setup. I’ve had to work on not saying too many uhs and ums , my earlier videos were pretty bad with that. Thank you for the comment, I appreciate that.

[@JamesRCPlaneTech]

Also, fantastic to hear from the Netherlands!!

[@jasonmcharris7243]

Iv never built a model before, but would like to learn, good quality video thanks 👍🏼

[@JamesRCPlaneTech]

Dive on in with a Basic kit and learn as you go. Take it slow and you will be fine.

[@kerbygator]

Good idea organizing a bit. I just got a Balsa USA Phaeton II model and it has a lot of pieces. I just did the same thing today. Separated the pieces a bit and grouped them.

[@JamesRCPlaneTech]

Nice! Good luck with your build, and flying when it’s done. Thanks

[@littsrc1726]

Looking good 👍

[@JamesRCPlaneTech]

Thanks!

[@chogsett]

Just wanted to add a tip i thought of from video 2. Place a small ziptie around the handle of the exacto knife. This will keep it from being able to roll off the table.

[@JamesRCPlaneTech]

Thats a great tip. I have a short dowel taped along the end of one of my xactos from the days when i drafted on a slanted drafting table, darn things rolling off and spearing feet is no good. Thanks for the zip tie tip, thats a great idea

[@cratecruncher6687]

I just discovered your channel so my apologies for the three month old comment. It's nice to see people still enthusiastic about building RC planes from kits. I love building my own planes. You are doing everything fine but I'd like to pass on some ideas you might find interesting. When assembling a wing it is paramount to keep it straight. If you assemble everything together without glue it will hold itself together with a few well placed pins. Then you can adjust everything, avoid any mistakes (like an upside down part, lol been there) and then glue every part together in one big "glue-a-thon". Speaking of "glue-a-thons" that CA you are using is expensive, brittle, and gives off toxic fumes. If you can smell it you don't have enough fresh air! I switched to Tightbond II wood glue a decade ago and rarely ever use CA anymore. Tightbond costs pennies, is much stronger, and won't put you in the hospital. Two aileron servos will work fine but may be overkill on a .40 size plane and it adds weight, cost, and complexity. Then there's that linkage hanging out in the breeze. When servos got cheaper biplane guys were the first to switch to two wing-mounted servos. After all, one analog servo pushing FOUR ailerons through a bunch of sloppy linkages is kinda lame. But I think builders have taken the two servo idea as gospel and are now putting them in everything. These little .40 planes have small ailerons so the torque is easily handled with one servo, the ailerons aren't that long so twist isn't an issue. And most important for me, a center servo saves weight and looks much cleaner because it is completely hidden inside the fuse. Regards.

[@JamesRCPlaneTech]

Hi, thanks for the comments and ideas. I think your suggestions are all good methods. I’m always pondering what approach to take on different aspects of the build, and glues and methods are one of them. I think on this one, once I set the spars straight I felt I could place the ribs for example one at a time. But I agree that lining it all up and gluing once is a great method. And I agree, that traditional good quality wood glue is very useful. I also pondered the single vs double aileron servos and issues of weight and complexity, and ugliness of the servos sticking out of the wing. But I wanted flaperons to slow down my approaches. So I added weight on one hand but I think the flap function will overcompensate the added weight in increased lift for slower landings. I had the Great Planes Escapade ARF, which was about the same size as the Smoothie. It landed pretty hot, so I decided to switch to the flaperons and they really helped slow it down. So I thought I would try it here. Im also glad that there are people like you with real experience and still enjoy the traditional building side of the hobby. Thanks again for the comments.

[@travisfries]

This is how people are supposed to offer different ideas on the internet, with humility and respect!

[@rperry70]

One tip: Glue the appropriate sized estes rocket tube from the center section rib to the rib bay where the servo goes. This is a great conduit for your aileron servo wires, and makes it much easier than dealing with a string. Especially if you have to change a servo out down the road.

[@JamesRCPlaneTech]

Nice idea, I’ll consider doing something like that. Thanks

[@garymurphy5133]

shouldnt the 3/32nd shim been placed further back? level with the spar shim?

[@JamesRCPlaneTech]

Good point Like flush with the front of the spar shim? Yes I think that would be correct. I was thinking of that after I placed it. But Im not too certain that little extra shim made a whole heck of a difference. But I agree, it would be better to have had it flush with the front of the lower shim so as not to lift that spar too high. I did find that the ribs were held “level” by their connection with the main spar. Good catch!

[@JamesRCPlaneTech]

Also, I finished the next vid, but I was able to add that note in the earlier part of the vid. So thanks, good catch!

[@TheBigChinoDon]

I saw a YT video from Mercury Adhesives regarding CA and the use of accelerants. The guy said that thin CA should never be accelerated as it does reduce the strength of the product. Generally when building I'm not a big fan of CA, but wondered if anyone has noticed this?

[@JamesRCPlaneTech]

Ive never used CA accelerators. I never had the need to do so. I use thin CA that goes off instantly and if using thicker CAs I just have them cure on their own, which never seemed to me needing acceleration the way I use them. Cant comment on if they get weaker accelerated.

[@TheBigChinoDon]

@@JamesRCPlaneTech Well baking soda is an accelerant. I'm not a chemist or anything like that, so don't know the how and why it is. Though watching the video it seems the thin has probably already dried but the time you brush some on. Like the thought of using a brush, will have to try that.

[@JamesRCPlaneTech]

Ya , Im no chemist either. Lol. I use the baking soda for a filler mostly.

[@JamesRCPlaneTech]

I should say that I do use baking soda to fill in and also act as a bonder to bridge a gap, so I guess I am relying on it a bit for a bond in some cases. Or i use it at times to soak up CA and help the puddle cure quickly as you noted. But I use baking soda more of a secondary thing. I will say that either way I dont think Ive had problems with bond strength using baking soda. Maybe the accelerators have their own impact on strength. But great comments, thanks!