Balsa USA Smoothie RC Plane Kit Build No 4 Wing Construction Part 2

In this video I continue with the construction of the wing, which includes adding the wing leading edge balsa strip and the wing trailing edge sheeting, and constructing the second wing half just like the first wing half. The wing has a symmetrical airfoil so both wings can be constructed on the same half-wing plan. I discovered that the trailing edge of the Balsa USA Smoothie does not have a solid piece of wood for the aileron hinges to mount into. The way the trailing edge is constructed is the two trailing edge sheets are placed over the back ends of the wing ribs making a triangular hollow space between the ribs along the trailing edge of the wing, and nothing much for the aileron hinges to connect to except for the thin seam along the sheet edges. So I decided to add wedges of shaped balsa wood in the spaces between the wing ribs where the aileron hinges are mounted, so the hinges will have solid balsa wood to mount into.
The Balsa USA Smoothie kit is a 40 class (size) sport plane and has been around for a long time and is still readily available on the Balsa USA website. For this balsa kit build I will use traditional rc plane kit build techniques.
In each build series episode I will focus a different aspect of the build including the wing, fuselage, tail section rudder and elevator, engine mount, landing gear, tail gear, engine set up (OS Engines .46 AXII), fuel tank, servos and receiver (Futaba), control rods and horns, Monokote covering, carving and shaping wood, using CA glue (Zap CA glue, Starbond CA glue), epoxies (JB Weld, Bob Smith Industries, Z-poxy finishing resin), tools and everything thing else involved with building a radio control plane kit (RC Airplane kit).
I have been building, flying, crashing, modifying, and repairing radio control planes for many years and enjoy sharing what I do with the radio control plane community, so I started RC Plane Tech channel.
My methods of building rc plane kits, maintenance, running engines and equipment, and flying are not the only way to do things. I always recommend checking other sources and learning from others. I do not consider myself an "expert" but just a guy who has been doing this stuff for a while and enjoys sharing what I know and learning from others.
I fly with Futaba radio equipment, OS Max engines and Saito engines, Master Airscrew Propellers and APC propellers, Sullivan RC fuel tanks and hardware, Dubro RC fuel tanks and hardware and typically run Morgan Omega and Powermaster glow fuels. I fly ARF rc planes, but I also really like to build rc plane kits including Balsa USA RC kits, House of Balsa, Royal and Marutaka RC kits, Sig RC Kits. I use Monokote and other RC covering fabrics.

[@Darryl603]

If all the ribs are spaced equally, you can cut a piece of wood to the correct width and use it as a gauge block , set the first rib and use the block to set all the rest and all the ribs will be perfectly aligned.

[@JamesRCPlaneTech]

Thats a great tip. Thanks for the comment.

[@TheBigChinoDon]

Nice job!

[@rcnatec64]

A future tip on aligning ribs to glue trailing edges. Take your 1-2-3 blocks and align against spars and slide til it contacts rib and it should square it up. Enjoying your build.

[@JamesRCPlaneTech]

Thanks for the comments! I use the 123 Blocks a lot, great to have on hand. I did use them as you noted to square up the ribs, not sure if I mentioned it in vid. They really are handy!

[@marcobuonavita2757]

Sempre dei video ben fatti un auguri di buon Natale

[@JamesRCPlaneTech]

Thanks Marco! Merry Christmas to you also! Thanks for the comments and following my channel.

[@rcnatec64]

You can utilize your 1-2-3 blocks to hold leading edge instead of pins. Use blocks to transfer lines from plans, lay on plan lines and trace up to your spars, instead of eyeballing lines.

[@rcnatec64]

If I would have Waited another 20 seconds I would’ve seen you do that with your block. Lol

[@edwardmullen1581]

Why not align the hinge on a rib instead of between?

[@JamesRCPlaneTech]

Thats a good idea also. That would eliminate having to add that wedge stock in the voids.

[@justingerlock]

You glued the hinge blocks in the wrong locations because you flipped the wing over

[@JamesRCPlaneTech]

Hi, thanks for the comment. Well the wing has a symmetrical air foil and the same width along its length, so until they are joined with the dihedral set, the two panels are exactly the same, no up or down or left or right. But I did just check the blocks and they are in the same locals in both panels (because I do make mistakes). I did move the two inner hinge blocks one bay closer two the center in order to distribute the hinges a little better. So the two inner most hinges will not be where the kit has them. I did this because the original plan had the single aileron servo in the center with the connecting rods making the innermost hinge. But since the aileron servos will be in the wings, I wanted to push those inner most hinges over one to account for the original connecting rod/hinges at the center. Hope that made sense, lol. Thanks again