Bambu Lab A1 /A1 Mini Print Failures

[@amber-esque]

I have some info for how I fixed my failed prints!! If you're stuck, try these: Bambu Studio -> Others - Uncheck "Reduce infill retraction" Bambu Studio -> Quality Set "Initial layer height" to 0.2 Edit the FDG PLA 0.2 nozzle profile -> Settings Overrides - Set Z Hop Type to "Normal" - Set Travel distance threshold to "0" - Wash your PEI plate with soapy water & dry Hope this helps

[@ReeBoox51]

Thanks for sharing this, it helped quite a lot. It is a bit more stringy than default profile, but it works! I was having problems with thinner longer parts that broke off (legs, swords, skeletons, etc.), because the filament started curling up on those small areas and layers became uneven.. So nozzle kept hitting them utill they snapped.

[@dillonphillips3027]

This is what fixed my problems. I spent weeks/months trying to solve this...Bambu "apparently" is trying to put a fix into the works....we'll see!

[@ironalex28]

how do I go to setting overrides? new to the bambu slicer

[@halilefeyaldiz2314]

I have been looking into this problem for the last 3 hours I think, only cuz I didnt see this comment, this really sums it up. But I also came to the conclusion that lovering the flow rate a little (even with flow rate calibration in my case) would also help in this regard. thx everyone

[@nocoastbro9242]

@@ironalex28 in studio, make sure you have fdg pla basic profile selected under the filament drop down menu. click the little "pencil in box" icon on the right, should get you to that menu.

[@jsfetzik]

Good advise as usual. It does sound like nozzle knock. It is a big problem when printing things in higher temp filaments like PETG/ABS/ASA. Switching to a non-crossing infill like gyroid or or rectilinear can help. As mentioned you can also mitigate by slowing the speed down, but you may need to slow things down a lot to give enough time to melt the plastic. So changing infill is usually the more desirable solution. For small prints, like minis, these infills will not significantly increase print time. For large items it can increase by a percent or two, but its well worth it to avoid issues.

[@johanjoakimmtb6401]

Perfectly timed video! I recently switched to Orca Slicer (my printer is a Creality 3 V3 SE) and Orca too has Grid as the default infill pattern. I had my first nozzle knock over a print and I was certain it was some Z-offset issues. I realize now it’s probably the grid infill that’s the culprit because I can audibly hear the nozzle dragging through the grid lines. I’ll definitely change to cubic or gyroid moving forward.

[@Tom--Ace]

The best solution is a much higher z hop. I was having problems with very small layer heights having having the nozzle collide with vertical columns and other fragile features. Eg overhang tests in particular. Setting z hop much higher completely solved this, and it's what I'd recommend

[@CSmith-b4y]

Can you tell where they hid that setting in Bambu Slicer? I might just be having an oblivious moment, but I can't find it. Edit: found it. In case anyone else is looking: Filament Settings (from clicking to edit preset just to the right of the filament dropdown), then Setting Overrides.

[@yezensafi2]

@@CSmith-b4yI still can’t find it :(

[@petercallison5765]

Z Hop causes stringing so I will try the gyroid first.

[@patrickperron8598]

Helpful as always tom. Getting my a1 mini and .2mm nozzles later this week, can't wait!

[@OldManJimmy1]

Thank you, I’ve been having that problem and I bet you’re right this will fix my issue on my Bambu A1!!! I’ll try this tomorrow and report back.

[@Jinxid77]

What a good tip, I have had a few knock-offs from the a1 mini, and I basically just use print bed glue to "fix" it, but this seems way smarter :) thanks!

[@wombat74]

Great advice! Having just gotten an A1 this is definitely something I'll keep an eye out for.

[@stevenwilliams6258]

Being new to 3D printing I take notes on possible failures and solutions. Thanks!

[@Loriborn]

I wanted to add that I have had great luck with these settings so far printing minis even as small as 15mm. One thing that made a huge difference when I was printing minis with smaller limbs, like skeletons, was to use the smooth plate that is included with the Bambu accessory pack. I hadn't tried it previously as I was having good luck with the textured plate, but I was having failures like the one you're describing from nozzle knock. While I do think using gyroid infill will help with some prints, I do think that the textured plate just has somewhat poor adhesion with smaller pieces (even after thorough soap and water cleaning) at least when printing quickly. I was getting periodic failures due to inertia flinging prints off the bed just enough cause issues, but the smooth plate (being obviously "stickier") has not only fixed all my 28mm prints, but was also the only way I was able to get 15mm to print at all, as brims were not strong enough to keep the mini held in place the entire time. If you haven't already, I'd definitely recommend giving the smooth plate a try, at least for minis!

[@bingobangobungo7918]

Do you use glue stick?or anything else on the smooth plate? Thanks for sharing your experience!

[@Loriborn]

@@bingobangobungo7918 Nope! A thoroughly cleaned smooth plate with Tom’s settings and gyroid infill and 15mm miniatures stick very well! I have a community post and video on my channel if you’re curious about how my 15mm prints came out using these settings. You really only need glue if you use a cold plate with PETG, which isn’t ideal for minis anyway.

[@petercallison5765]

I thought the point of the textured plate was that it stuck better

[@Loriborn]

@@petercallison5765 Actually, it's the opposite in my experience! The texture of the plate is fine enough that the molten filament doesn't actually adhere any better. The smooth plate adhesion is significantly stronger and that makes the smooth plate a better option for smaller prints.

[@Abeynmrl]

Great job on these video. New to miniature printing and am amazed that my A1 can create such nice pieces. I just bought your Master set...should be really fun creating.

[@j.c3587]

Just started yesterday with the a1 mini, your vids helples me avoid some issues altogether and fix some issues after the fact bravo and thanks

[@damenbray4718]

Thanks for this Tip! I haven't had my Bambu A1 prints detach from the print bed, but have noticed the printhead "Knocking"

[@madox76]

Just started mini printing with new A1 and this is happening can hear it happen was driving me nuts, this makes a ton of sense. Here we go.

[@jjdepaz1]

The biggest thing for me is the rule of thumb is never go more than 55% layer height of the size of your nozzle. So for .4mm nozzle usually go .2mm height but can push to .16mm to get more quality if you go to .15mm it’ll knock the last layer everytime. So sometimes I go .16mm and that gets amazing quality and it also depends on filament. Anything above pla you don’t want to get to close because the material slightly expands as it comes out so adjust for that.

[@blacksnapper74]

Thanks for another great video Tom. Your video a few back (A1 mini review) convinced me to be the full size A1 and I LOVE IT! I bought the 0.2 nozzle at the same time, but have mostly been printing game accessories, so 0.4 is great. I’m actually considering getting a 0.8 for that stuff. Right now I’m printing a hexagon wall paint storage rack that matches the pattern for the color families for Army Painter Speedpaints 2.0, because I think it will look really cool, and because I need to make room for my Fanatic set that’s coming. I guess I never considered all the things around my games that I could use this printer for. Thanks for the nudge. Excited to watch more of your content! Please keep up the good work.

[@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors]

Glad it helped you!

[@skaiindustry254]

We have ordered our first now and can't wait to print on it.

[@richardokeeffe8375]

Thanks man. Good to see this as you ask for help anywhere and the fan boys bite your head off because they thank Bambu machines are perfect

[@GiantRobo77]

Totally agree......klipper has been a bit like that for me as well....which is a shame because it's often fiddly hardware that interferes with brilliant software design. Tom is a true servant to the community, very few people would intentionally make prints worse to learn what is going on and why. I'm seeing some comments about the beds on A1 minis being warped/bent just a little too much for the bed leveling compensation to keep up with... probably at higher speeds the Z axis can't jerk back and forth fast enough. I'm "weird" because I almost couldn't care less about print speed ....as long as it's not a step back to the late 80's. ....Accuracy with non-resin based materials is THE most important thing for me for me doing small scale work and functional fit parts. I am very encouraged to see discussions like this, for transparency and would recommend reviews over on the MyTechFun channel. Igor is a Hungarian engineer with seriously informative technical videos.... a great compliment to the ones on this channel.

[@chalupacabra4312]

My hero! I've been working on some supportless fdm minis and couldn't quite figure out why they were failing.

[@magnusmartensson1868]

Thank you for this advise! I’ve had supports breaking away from the print bed on my P1S and making this change fixed it. I guess the nozzle created vibrations that made the supports release from the bed. Got a lot of bearded prints from it.. 😅

[@andrewmoore5712]

Tom, excellent advice, when the printer is doing GRID infil, you can hear the nozzle hitting each grid line as it crosses it. with Gyroid this does not happen as far as i have seen.

[@thomasmiller8962]

Good info Tom. Thanks for sharing. Good news gyroid infill does not add time but fixes the problem.

[@sissy1234hhh]

I tried what you said to do and it did not work out very well, I tried somethings and found that if I did a infill of 100% It gave me the perfect print, I was doing very small prints and they all came out very good, Try it and tell me if it works.

[@EricDevoe]

My A1 mini is coming tomorrow (purchased on your recommendation). Can’t wait to try it out!

[@bencejoful]

I was having this issue on my A1 mini (with the FDG v7 .02mm profile), and 'fixed' it by adding a 12mm brim and cutting all accelerations down to 10%. But if I can speed those back up using this fill, that would be great! I'll tinker around a bit more, thanks for the ideas!

[@petercallison5765]

This is such a good printer that should not be necessary.

[@brianwaterman8185]

And here i thought i was going to learn more about z-hop. I also switched to gyroid for most of my infills for this same reason to help prevent that buildup at the intersections of the grid pattern. Adaptive cubic is nice too, not sure if it causes nozzle knock. Either way, great explanation. Look forward to more of your videos as a subscriber.

[@markrobinson7831]

New to Bambu A1 and love it. Really like videos like this to educate me.

[@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors]

More are coming! :)

[@Navigator777777]

I made the change in the video and my problem stopped. Sadly, I did two things at the same time on my A-1. I also wiped my plate with isopropyl alcohol. I noticed the prints stick harder than ever but pop off satisfyingly when the plate cools. The alcohol definitely makes adherence better. Before the nozzle knock, I noticed my parts sat on the plate looser with each new print. Until one day I had the classic bird nest. That's when I ran into this video. Today, I use the suggestion in the video for my infill and pay attention to how hard it is to remove my prints. If I can pick them up without resistance I do a quick wipe and thats good for three or four prints.

[@charlesfowler3464]

OMG... I have been trying to fig this out forever. thank you got so tired of 4day prints getting knocked off

[@JohnDoe-el5ir]

Your trick helps probably but in general it’s a problem of layers being not cooled fast enough or behaving badly filament. I find clear filaments problematic. Lowering temperature or speed should help.

[@spooky2466]

Cubic/Cubic subdivision was what I saw most of the time as the fix to this, as it takes less time than gyroid and gives better structural stability, but of course that all depends on the part, regardless thank you for making this video, a lot of beginners that get into 3D printing especially with the user friendly bambus don't know about this.

[@daliasprints9798]

Cubic is self intersecting just like grid and causes this repeated collision friction.

[@SaiyanParmos]

Thank you for the post. I just got a A1 mini. Keep posting it helps

[@Infiniteapparelanddesignco]

Thank you for the information I will go ahead and make those settings and hope this helps. The thing is that it was not doing it when I first got my printer like 2 days ago

[@DMsMixUp]

Learning about how to best set up my new printer

[@petercallison5765]

I have had failures at the point about 1 centimeter up. I printed a couple guys with capes, and you could see the second centimeter had pattern on it. I have just lubricated it and am reprinting.

[@Lindkvist11]

Great video as always! Would love a video on supports and how to use them

[@BradRemillard]

Liked subscribe. Really like how to fix videos. We all encounter problems these help everyone. Hope you do more problem solving.

[@FunkyAbigail]

I started hearing the dreaded nozzle knock on some prints, but it wasn't until a part got yeeted off the print bed at high speed half way during a 4 hour print that I needed to look into this problem. Who'd have thought it was the grid/cubic infill? Thanks! It's also a combination of high speed printing. I get nozzle knock frequently on my Creality printer when it's doing infill, but it's often just not moving fast enough to remove the part from the bed and would melt through the intersecting lines (or break them in some cases, if the filament was brittle).

[@edwardliu1154]

I have been hearing the nozzle click hit the print. I think my adhesion is strong enough that it hasn't knocked it loose. the a1 is so much more reliable than my old ender (which I never tuned correctly). so far my only failed print was when my tube snagged. I'm sure I'll have more as I try more complicated prints

[@timcahoon4911]

Interesting. I’ve heard this on the P1s group as well

[@MrStratofish]

I've been having this very often with my Ender 3 V3 SE. It isn't so much that the whole print is knocked loose as individual supports or parts are being knocked around and fall clear or or start to tilt which then causes them to be hit again or wobble around as they are printed on top of which can cause the failure to escalate to a total loss. I don't have much infill compared to supports but I can't see any obvious crossing-over points in most layers but I will try this anyway. It is almost like the gantry is not being raised enough in the Z axis so it slowly gets closer and closer until the nozzle is being dragged over everything rather than just above It handled it really well for the first month or two so it may just be a maintenance thing but nothing I have tried has worked so far. This is still a good trick to know about though and may help me

[@niemand9871]

Thanks, will probably try out that setting.

[@gmoney9352]

Thanks for the great video and the awesome info. I cant wait for my a1mini to show up this week!!

[@Darthus]

Such a great tip, these types of insights are super helpful!

[@Skullyweb]

Couldn't be a more timely released video. I have just started getting this issue.

[@pineyspicks8229]

Have you had a problem over the nozzle coming in contact with the build plate and not putting down a smooth first layer

[@n5vi]

i also have this problem rn and need help :(

[@Shiggstream]

Bought my mini 3 weeks ago, printed beautifully until this week, lots of nozzle knock. Unfortunately, not an easy fix like this, the corners of prints are warping upwards in a cupping motion and the nozzle hits them. Bed adhesion is great, the warping doesn't start until 5-15 layers above the bed. Doing this on all filaments, all models. I've tried cleaning and lubricating everything, checked the extruder gears, nozzle, heat element, even adjusting nozzle temps from 205-220 and bed temps from 50-65. Absolutely nothing works, even rerunning the out of the box calibration for bed leveling and vibration comp.

[@sheikoner]

overextrussion or undercooling. I tried changing the pattern and still kicking. I watch the deformation of the supports in the end of the layer, and that caused overhigh. Z hop doesnt work between layers, just changing sections at the same layer, so this is a painful issue that i dont know how to resolve

[@ObsidianShadowHawk]

Whoa! I've been having this problem on my Q5 delta. The nozzle always clicks when going over infill and some overhangs. I'll try gyroid. Thanks!

[@user-lf8pd2ld2u]

comming from prusa mini+ and anycubic cobra 2 ... NEVER had problems with grid infill... no scraping at all... can someone figure out why especially bambulab has this problem? I can't help myself but I feel it has something to do with the Z stepper motor. I can hear very little scraping even on the normal paths (outlines etc). Maybe the z axis moves up too little from layer to layer...😢

[@pb6703]

The video I was looking for! Thankyou!

[@hcpookie]

I've been very successful using Z-Hop although many have said it does more harm than good.

[@DrLobotamy]

Any tips for dealing with curling? Opening the door/lid on my p1s helps, but the fan is already at 100%. I'm rocking a 0.2mm nozzle with your a1 mini speeds.

[@Lostinpackaging]

Thank yoooouuu, I've been going crazy because of this.. gotta try tomorrow.

[@sneshofficial]

Changed to Gyroid, modified the settings and I'm stuck with the same problem. I even washed the plate and oiled everything even tho I've been using it just for a week. I really don't know what else to do and when searching for answers I only see A LOT of people with the same nozzle scratching problem while others act like we are dumb or inventing stuff

[@Jezza364]

Im having the same issue on both my a1's. I print larger prints and the nozzle is dragging on all styles of infill. Calibrated filament and changed loads of settings. Im at a loss. My old creality printers dont have this issue. Has to be an issue with A1's firmware.

[@Milnecreates]

I have had perfect adhesion on the A1 for weeks and now I cant seem to get the McGybeer possums to stay on the (textured PEI) build plate. I have tried cleaning/washing build plate with dawn, 99% alcohol, purple glue stick, changing from .16 to .20, changed from grid to gyroid, turned all models 90° , made possums bigger, turned off prime tower, turned on prime tower. Im on my 8th fail. :(

[@KevinInlay]

Love this channel, and the website. Please keep the content coming! Do you never do 100% infill? I kinda love the heft of minis with that much... think I could still get that heft without 100%?

[@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors]

Never do 100% infill. Watch my original video on 3D printing minis for a full explanation. :)

[@SuperFunkmachine]

Do the old glue a penny to the base trick.

[@KevinInlay]

@@SuperFunkmachine my god this is genius and so simple. I’m over here adding 2 hours to my print for NOTHING

[@eggtownegg4135]

I have not had this issue yet, but this is good to know 😊

[@steveng6997]

Can you make a video on how to reduce or avoid printing warping on Bambu A1 mini.

[@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors]

Lower bed temp a bit and add a brim are your two options.

[@steveng6997]

I see an outer and inner trim, should I select both? Where can I find the Bed temp option@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors

[@steveng6997]

I set the Brim type to outer brim [5width] and the cool plate PLA to 20. Let see if that helps. Thanks@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors

[@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors]

@@steveng6997 I didn't realize you were using a cool plate, try using the heated textured plate, you will get better adhesion.

[@shanerussell7335]

I use cubic and gyroid but still get the nozzle knock. It happens when it finishes infill and moves over the infill to print the internal solid infill reinforcing the walls. Nothing seems to help.

[@thejollyfrog640]

Gyroid infill is good. But it tends to shake the shit out of the machine and the table/bench. I have switched to using 'Lines' or 'Rectilinear'. They do not foul the nozzle like the 'Grid'. Nor do they shake the house.

[@Ronoaldo]

I only have this issue with a) colour printing and b) multiple objects on the plate. This causes a cascading of failures 😢

[@menyou6873]

@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors Thanks for the videos - I have been s ubscriber for a while - and just ordered an A1 mini off of your affiliate link - love these videos!

[@oljobo]

Also see - under "others" - the last setting there… (being checked by default) is also causing knockoffs.

[@Utome77]

love your videos they are so helpful

[@RobMayer]

Awesome tip. Just had my first print do this

[@shinobi1804]

One of my often failure is the nozzle knocking my model when moving around. Tried to print Recaro Phone Stand and often fails.

[@davidmann4436]

Great information. Thank you! Will try Gyroids.

[@doodelbop2633]

Tour vids are great

[@peterstoltz3296]

Great video's I'm have a question about making 2d images into 3d prints with the orca slicer program???thank you

[@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors]

Sorry, this channel is about printing models for tabletop gaming, so cannot advise on that.

[@peterstoltz3296]

@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors okay thank you

[@_PlannedObsolescence]

Hey Tom. I also purchased an A1 mini, but couldn’t even start a test print before I ran into an issue. I fed a new roll of filament into the filament hub and confirmed it’s passing through, but the extruder gear does not seem to be catching it. Even when I try to push the filament in, it doesn’t seem to be reaching the melt chamber. I’ve got a ticket in with support, but just wanted to check if this is an issue you’ve encountered or heard about. Thanks, love the videos.

[@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors]

Are you depressing the extruder release lever when you are feeding the filament into the tube and it reaches the extruder and stops? I've found if I feed the filament to where it stops, depress the lever, then push a little more it will grab it.

[@_PlannedObsolescence]

@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors That (plus a little extra pushing) seemed to do it. Thanks!

[@jasonalexander332]

Great info Tom!

[@jfuente]

Awesome -- thanks for the tip! Liked, subcribed and commented! Good stuff.

[@Bonzari]

So my issue is when printing multiple models the print head travels across models that have already had their next layer applied. I print multiples to reduce waste on color changes. Is there a way to specify like a front to back order. (Need to print all at the same time to better model to changeover waste ratio)

[@nordictram]

Helpful tips, as always from you. Thumbs up!

[@Oyster_Man]

Very interesting. Gonna try this.

[@matthewruffner9381]

Great info and quick solution!

[@DougDorman06]

Hey this sounds familiar! Thanks for making a video!

[@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors]

Yep, I figured I had better try to replicate the problem and verify the solution/make a video and get the word out to everyone. :)

[@lucasclauson3779]

Will the linked custom profile settings work for the A1, or is it exclusive to the A1 mini. I'm planning on getting the A1 in the next few weeks (the larger build surface for not a lot extra seems like a good idea to me) but having no experience, I don't know if the settings you mentioned here (and in the other Resin like print video) depend on build plate dimensions or not.

[@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors]

They work on the A1 (I've used them with mine) but I changed the temp to 210˚ with Sunlu PLA META on the A1 (link in the video description) as other filaments like hatchbox didn't do as well for minis on the full size A1.

[@thumbtackj]

Do you guys have profiles for the Creality K1?

[@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors]

Nope, I can only make profiles for printers I own/use.

[@chestercwright6070]

Do you have an AMS, if so have you looked at wall mounting it?

[@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors]

Nothing I design is multi-color so I don't use the AMS.

[@chrisjung7859]

Had the same issue trying this now

[@stevedodrillsonandoffthewo754]

Thanks Tom you can teach an old dog new tricks

[@noahbodhi8657]

Slow down initial print laywrs and clean with IPA. Solved it for me.

[@DougDorman06]

Out of curiosity, you used to use lightning infill on your older Cura profiles. Have you tried it for the Bambu yet?

[@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors]

Not yet, that would be more something I would possibly use with terrain pieces, not miniatures. :)

[@bonniewoolford973]

I’ll try it right now

[@larrybland007]

I will try this solution today

[@franksilva3566]

As far as printers - have you ever printed on the Kingroon KP3S Pro V2 for miniatures?

[@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors]

Yes, didn't do as well as the Ender-2 Pro.

[@franksilva3566]

@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors Thanks - I don’t have a FDM printer as yet - I would like to print miniatures on a FDM and with the help of your print profiles and your advice; I am leaning toward the A1 mini or the A1 itself. Again - Thanks

[@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors]

@@franksilva3566 both are really good, but I am seeing slightly better miniatures off of my two A1 Minis than I am on my full size A1.

[@DennisCrawfordJr]

I have more problem with gyroid where my nozzle moves across the print it hits

[@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors]

Try cubic, that's what I am currently experimenting with and it is working well.

[@DennisCrawfordJr]

@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors I have been changing up.

[@musmo]

I will try this! 👍

[@andyvieluf6377]

I am on gyroid but still having my models knockoff or fail. I was assuming it had to do with speed/accelerations. I turned them WAY down and now my prints work but take way longer then they should. If you have any advice on speed and acceleration settings for A1 it would be very appreciated!

[@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors]

Have you tried my Miniatures profile?

[@andyvieluf6377]

@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors not yet! Just found your channel from this video, searching to fix my A1 problems. But I did subscribe so I'll be digging in soon

[@travisbarber1945]

Thanks for the help on this

[@nickholl]

Thanks for the video! Ive a quick question if I may? after printing loads of prints fine with the Bambu filament on the A1 mini, now im trying some Sunu filament im getting quite a bit of very fine (fluffy) stringing :-/. Is it something you've experienced? Im new to 3d printing and so aren't really sure what to do :-/ Is it just the filament isn't as good as the Bambu stuff maybe? thanks!

[@privacytest9126]

Hair drier

[@nickholl]

Ha :). Well yeah, that’s what I’ve been doing - but would be nice to get a good clean print off the plate if possible

[@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors]

Are you using my miniatures profile?

[@nickholl]

@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrorsalas not yet (guilty face). I haven’t needed them yet as haven’t really printed anything that small and detailed. Are there any particular settings that would help?

[@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors]

@@nickholl Sunlu PLA META is best for small models, I have not used it for anything big so cannot advise.

[@LudescherHerbert]

I tried this, and z hop, but the part still got knocked from the table.

[@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors]

Then try slowing down.

[@DroneSkinz]

Great advice. Thanks alot for this!

[@johnwatrous3058]

Nice, thanks for the information.

[@akbermehdi3626]

I'm having a problem where my 3d print freezes right at 65% of the job and I have to stop and cancel the job and restart. Can you please help

[@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors]

Sounds like a corrupted file (or SD card). Try reslicing it.

[@akbermehdi3626]

@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors i tried new SD card and reslicing it but happened again 20 mins after it started

[@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors]

@@akbermehdi3626 then it could be a defect in the model.

[@amclark79]

Thank you

[@JakeSpacey]

Thanks for doing this video!

[@hjets5387]

Excellent! Thanks.

[@jikey0820]

Thank you very much