Bambu Studio 101 | Beginners Guide to Bambu Slicer Software | AMS & Multi-Color Prints

[@leliba13]

you can print a purge object instead of a tower in order to not waste that filament (just a random object with around the same height, for which coloring is not a factor)

[@joakimohman9071]

How do you do this? Like set a object as a "purge" object where it builds the changes?

[@S7E7V7E7N]

Came here to say the same thing. ( Along with flush into infill)

[@mbrick]

@@joakimohman9071 Yes, in Prepare, click Objects mode (not global) and then pick an object, go to others, and check Flush into this object.

[@ZunarZulfiqar]

Thank you so much for making your tutorials in dark mode. I'm legally blind and thus strughle tremendously with seeing basically any tutorial out there that is in "normal contrast." Since you use dark mode in your turtorials, i can actually mostly follow along, albeit a bit slower (your mouse/poibter is a bit small for me to track. So, it takes me a bit to find where you moved your mouse). Anyways, just wanted to say thank you.

[@ItsMeaDMaDe]

Your very welcome I’m glad I could help you. For future tutorials I’ll see if I can increase the size of my mouse pointer. Thanks so much for the comment.

[@ItsMeaDMaDe]

So I was recording my video for the week and increased my mouse size for you and the recorder ignored the mouse size. Just wanted to let you know i'll be looking for a new screen recording software to accommodate your request.

[@rameeti]

@@ItsMeaDMaDe Look for a cursor enhancer utility. There are many that put a glow around the cursor or some such alteration. It makes it much easier for people to keep up with where the mouse is being flung.

[@jaimebosworth4227]

Thanks!

[@Wi_Yeti_Official]

Would be cool if you could print a part with the wasted filament

[@DeLeonsV-TwinTales]

Just got my x1 carbon, I understand the purpose of this tutorial, however, is it possible to just print this in white and hand paint it with acrylics? Are there particular types of plastics that take better to waterbased paints or lacquer primer?

[@drewkenton4482]

I noticed that depending on how people decide to color a model will decide on the number of color changes. I recently downloaded and printed the Santa's Snowcat. While the reindeer printed somewhat fast, the Santa was colored using the brush instead of the sphere tool. This left the head of Santa using multiple colors on the inside of the hat this making it take 9 hrs to print. Not saying that the creator did anything wrong, but just added unneeded print time. Am I right by my assumption of this coloring technique? Is there a way to fix it to print it as a solid color infill as what the outside is other than using the sphere?

[@laurentallenguerard]

Yes, we need a recycling solution!

[@jezcoates]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/eIWTZZqifKmdeJYsi=1uwdrK9-PsaKJLru

[@vikinglore1066]

This is the type of tutorial I appreciate. It is in depth but not talking down to a person and provided an actual example and thorough reasoning behind each decision.

[@ItsMeaDMaDe]

Thanks so much for the comment. That truly is my goal when making these. My favorite saying is you don’t know what you don’t know. So I try to keep that in mind and explain it so anyone can follow. Thanks again and I hope the video helped you!

[@vikinglore1066]

@@ItsMeaDMaDe absolutely helped! Looking forward to checking out more. Much appreciated and keep being awesome!😎 😀🤘🏻

[@conniedave7628]

Great video. Learned a few tips. On the "poop" issue, you can select where the "poop" goes . It can go to infill and/or object and/or supports. Select under "Others"/"Flush Options".

[@ItsMeaDMaDe]

Yeah I haven’t covered that yet plan on it in future videos.

[@gadgetgurl7]

this would be a good one. @@ItsMeaDMaDe

[@RobertONeillPhotos]

@@ItsMeaDMaDeflush setting don't eliminate poop. the part it doesn't affect is in the beginning of the print, or the startup. On printables I put my poop shoot that has a removable bin from the side. All the others I have seen has the bin in the back. on my printer I don't have easy access to the back. It also has a side spool mount. replacing the rear mount for alternate filaments like TPU.

[@johmu5466]

Your removable side chute sounds great, as well as the TPU-feed compatible side spool mount...! What should we search for in Printables to find these designs...? Thanks ! @@RobertONeillPhotos

[@brittvaughn9447]

Oh that's a cool trick!

[@iDreamOfOkra]

I just ordered my Bambu A1 and am binge watching your Bambu Studio videos. Thank you for these incredibly in-depth videos with so many examples for everything. Awesome work!

[@nickvenable3799]

Very helpful video. Hopefully solved an issue I had. As far as poop. It is my intention to use mine in a raised garden bed as drainage material instead of rrocks and sticks.

[@Youngarchitect]

Another fantastic tutorial! I’m 3 weeks into figuring out 3D printing. I’m learning how to use a Neptune 3 max and a bambu P1S, you’ve been instrumental with helping figure out cura and bambu studio. Keep up the great work Chris!

[@ItsMeaDMaDe]

That’s great I’m glad I could help.

[@brettsatz6853]

Brand new A1 + AMS user here. I cannot for the life of me just tell it to use a SINGLE color for a SINGLE print from my AMS. It will only pull filament from spool 1. Can someone PLEASE help me?

[@uncannyrecovery3980]

When you slice it, it will ask you what color to use and if you are using ams. It's on the left column of the screen in slicer. It will have a number 1-4. When you go to print plate, you will tell it which number to use. I hope that helps!

[@boboscurse4130]

I wish I could get the Duck STL so I can follow along and practice.

[@ixnayondahombre]

Thanks for a terrific video! Any chance you could say where the duck print came from? I'd like to print it!

[@ItsMeaDMaDe]

Unfortunately the artist made it so it’s no longer free. But here is the link. thangs.com/designer/PixelandPlastic/3d-model/Sitting%20Duckling-888406

[@trevorbroadbent1604]

Hi From Australia, and thank you for your videos, i am 75 not new to 3D printing but very new to the XC1, I learn more everyone i watch the videos.

[@ItsMeaDMaDe]

That’s awesome! I hope these videos are helping you! Best of luck printing.

[@danielcoombes3310]

Hi Chris, I'm glad you're making these Bambu videos. I've had my bambu printer for a while now so I personally am doing ok with mine. However there are still a few things I struggle with. I'll be giving this video a watch later tonight. I do have another idea for a future video. Do you think you will make a bambu video on printing with pla and using petg for a support interface layer and vice versa? This works so well. The underside of my models with overhangs come out just as good as the top surface. I think the community could benefit from your easy to understand way of explaining stuff.

[@ItsMeaDMaDe]

That’s a fantastic idea. I’ll do some experimenting with it. I’ll look into it and see what I can come up with.

[@danielcoombes3310]

@@ItsMeaDMaDe excellent! I did it for the first time the other day. Honestly if you haven't already done it (which I'm sure you must of) you'll be amazed. I have read some people saying you can do it the other way around such as using pla as your support interface for a petg print but so far I've had no success. Maybe you'll have better luck than me. I just managed to watch this video of your on support painting tonight in work. Thanks for showing me some more new stuff dude 👊

[@randystevens2710]

Yes, PLA with PETG is a lifesaver for me. I am sure someone has a better setting than I use. But no more hours trying to clean up a print. Some only take a minute or two, which is quite cheap. Oh yes, you might talk about how to save on the cost of filament. I buy at least 10 rolls at a time and get free shipping and 50% off. Enjoy

[@rix_flix]

@@danielcoombes3310 I'm a relative newbie, but why would using dissimilar filaments for print and support be better than just using both the same?

[@danielcoombes3310]

@@rix_flix it's because pla and petg filament are not compatible with each other. In other words they will not bond to each other very much so using petg as your support interface for a pla print will allow you to peel off your supports leaving a practically perfect finish and none or very little scars on the underside of your model. You can only do this on a printer like a Bambu though with AMS so it automatically switches between filament for you. First time I did it I was in disbelief as the underside that had been touching the supports was better quality than my top surface and my top surface is pretty damn good anyway. If you haven't done it and have a bambu I'd seriously advise giving it a go

[@messygaragetinkering]

Great tutorial! As far as the waste goes, I thought I read somewhere about people doing their color primes in actual models? Like an additional model where they don't care about the color and color changes that wind up being in it? Simpply run the minimum amount of filament out as "poop" and the actual color/material transition can occur in the prime model. Once your print is complete, you get your focus part as well as a little bonus part instead of a blocky prime tower!

[@jwilliford]

Just installed my AMS and this was the first video I clicked on. Thank you. I don't need to go watch any other video. Very thorough and doesn't seem to be anything left out.

[@imanutnur7]

I used to work in the research department at Hallmark Cards. It was several years ago but we used an extruder to blend virgin material and rerun material. I would think there are smaller extruders out there you could extrude the poop material maybe blending it with a black die and extruding it to the same size as the filament.

[@taekim8812]

sorry but a suggestion. use primary color the one that is hardest to paint. aka if you are printing dice. make the dice black(the pips) and then click the open area white. or duck make the the figure grey (eyes) then the other larger areas the color you want.

[@JohnVanderbeck]

With SOME combination of my print designs, and really this is like 1% heh, I actually reuse the wipe tower by placing them into other prints to use their density to add weight to a base. But this is really a very small amount of time and I want to better design my prints to take advantage of (or supply) this. At least there is a tiny bit of reuse there though.

[@MogensDuePedersen]

Great🎉tutorial,a I am new to 3d,Is it possible to build my own model from scratch in Bambu lab

[@tilted_skirm]

Why can't you purge the color changes in the infill?

[@ItsMeaDMaDe]

You can it’s an option. But the issue is most models don’t have enough infill to properly clear it. Your infill density would have to be very high and you would end up wasting more filament than just doing it the regular way. Due to there might be layers you don’t do a layer change but your still printing a dense infill.

[@crooker2]

I think bambu could optimize its flushing algorithms. There's no way you should need to waste that much filament. They print those layers to purge the pump, but we all know that the pump is fully purged WAY before the tower layer is printed. Seems to me that bambu could optimize its flushing methods. It is a necessary evil, but flushing to infill, or turning off the purge tower altogether well help reduce the amount of waste.

[@sgtcannaboid]

Awesome. But, you use the word actually so…much. The term **actually** is an adverb used to indicate reality or truth, often contrasting with expectations, assumptions, or appearances. It can be used to emphasize the factual correctness of a statement or to clarify something that might be misunderstood. For example, “She seems upset, but she’s actually fine,” emphasizes that despite appearances, the truth is different. It can also be used for emphasis in a surprising or unexpected context, such as “He actually finished the project early.”

[@kyleshields2204]

The "poop" is the flushing. The tower is for quality of print

[@RobSandstromDesigns]

Excellent video instruction. Starting to bonge your channel because I am finally taking the 3D printing stuff more seriously. One of the things that got me back interested is the power of being able to do multiple color prints. Sorry for the length of this comment. When you paint the model using the sphere, circle, or triangle tool how many layers are being painted - or is this a relevant question at all? I fear I may have a fundamental knowledge gap about the multicolor process and operation of the printer. I am trying to close that. I have been watching various videos on programs like hueforge and setting up models in F360, Inkscape/Tinkercad, etc. to not have to paint the models. I figured I needed to go back to basics to understand how the printer is interpreting the information and applying it. Your channel appears to do a good job o talking about basics so I subscribed and hit the all bell. This video touched the surface of this topic, will be binge watching and looking for more insights on how the printer is working. For example: I see people bring in multiple STL (let's say 4) that they export from TinkerCad. Then they stack them on the build plate, get them aligned and select each one to be a different color based on that layer. I still need to learn this and how that works. One question is does this then do one full color for each of those layers? If so how do I make sure the print is flush on the top (if that is what I wanted)? If I understand your video discussion aroung time 36, the colors need to change (however many are applicable) each layer so multiple flushes in a layer. But when I watch these other videos I get the impression they are making a color change per layer to end up with the colored result (like a hueforge print). I think I am confused. Sorry way too long but looking for insights on the fundamentals of how the printer is functioning with multiple color changes (hence the significant amount of waste you discussed. Do you have more in depth tutorials on this topic?

[@sitgesvillaapartmentneilsc7924]

Thanks very much it's a great instructional video and it opens your eyes as to waste which is a good thing as a new user of Bambu Alexa printers but not new to 3-D printing I'm smitten with my new acquisition and I am now seriously contemplating getting the Carbon version. I definitely think the AMS system is the way forward with 3-D printing in general and should be an option for all 3-D printers as long as we have a solution to the waste that's generated that is both affordable and produces something that we can use so we basically end up with virtually no waste at all. I've subscribed and I'm looking forward to seeing new videos and your previous ones.

[@rikufanboy]

Your channel's name is about Methyl​enedioxy​methamphetamine, right?

[@TheToibs]

Hi Chris, Many thanks for the excellent tutorial (I'm a long time Prusa Mk3 user, X1C due to arrive in 2 days! I noticed the larger Marvel-style models on the shelves behind me - and had to ask - Are those resin, or 3D printed? If 3d printed, what were they printed on? Thanks!

[@TomDillen-r5o]

Nice work! I've got a project running for the super bowl. I'm trying to find a way to copy a normal graphics file to my drawing. I can find the graphics, of course, anybody can do that, however, I'm having a hard time getting it into the image i downloaded. Think happy thoughts, like a beer mug. I've got a round beer mug with everything i want except for the team logo which i can download in all too many formats. I'm using Bamboo Lab x1 Carbon and absolutely love the machine. Unfortunately I'm not in love with my abilities yet. If you want to click and drag a design into the system and apply it to the round surface you would have the same issue. I'm obviously looking at the wrong places. Any ideas?

[@stephenf98]

WOW... Keep these tutorials coming... I'm just printing out some tools & holders and some must haves to really setup my X1C with top lighting. My other accessories/plates came today so I can print PETG + others.

[@ItsMeaDMaDe]

I’ve got more planned. Yeah there are definitely things that are nice to have with it that I have printed too.

[@stephenf98]

@@ItsMeaDMaDe My wife hates it... the high pitch squeeel especially with the super fasst infill.... so all my printing has to be done when she is gone... I can't win!!

[@RodneyCappotto]

Hi Cris, I have a Bambu A1 Mini, when printing towards the end of all of my prints the print head will hit and free it from the bed. I printed 5 Geckos and only 2 came out. 3 of them were hit by the print head. Thank you. I love your videos

[@xVolta]

Relatively new to Bambu & AMS, but not to 3d printing or multi-material prints. With the Prusa MMU, you get the purge tower, used to purge the leftover filament from the nozzle on each change, same as here. With the Bambu poop chute serving that same purpose, I would have expected to do away with the tower. What purpose does it serve here beyond wasting extra filament purging twice?

[@joballew3688]

Thank you for rmakig this so easy to understand! You are awesome, I just ordered an AMS and I will be using this for a reference.

[@tubz]

excellent tutorial but I don't really understand the logic of your last point. Even if you printed more ducks, and you got more "bang for your buck" still used more total filament than if you were to just print one single duck

[@robertaskey1479]

I'm more confused after the video than I was before the video. This looks nothing like the Bambu studio I'm seeing . Not very informative.

[@uwegraf8013]

Thank you very much for your great videos 👍 Can you please give me the link for your poop chutes collector? It‘s very nice and i don‘t find it. Uwe

[@3dAngelo1]

What Filament do you like to use in the Bambu X1 C? Great videos, Learned so much from you! Keep them coming. TY

[@Gulitize]

Did Flush into objects' infill/support not exist yet? It is under the others tab and can reduce the flush tower size and do something useful with the material.

[@lcalbero]

Hi. Do you have any idea o how to have 5 or 6 colors on layer 1 with a single AMS. I am fighting on how to setup this. Regular pause does not work because I am still on the same layer. I know I can do filament swap but I don't know how to insert a pause after an object is printed. Or if I can setup ams with more than 4 colors and it knows how to pause for me do to the swap. Hope you can help.

[@ToddRose-pw3jh]

I am new here and love you videos, learning a lot so thank you. I would like to ask a question about color and printing. I would like to make an item that will be flat on the back but stepped up on the other side. it is 10mm in height and the base is 3.5mm second layer is 2mm (5.5 mm total at this point) the base can be all white and the second is to be red. the rest of the print is white, red, blue and gray. Bambu wants to print the color all they way thru (156 filament changes) i think making the base all white and then red on top of that would count out a lot of filament changes. How do i do that?

[@BlackSmokeDMax]

lol, when you clicked on the foot with the gold fill tool, my first thought was "god, I hope he next tells me that 'undo' works!" Phew, it does!

[@verdejt]

I don’t have a Bambu yet but with my Enders I’m going to cut the scraps up and melt them into silicone molds. Some of the molds I have are paw print keychains and earrings and skulls.

[@NateMiller-c7n]

I printed an office keychain and the square around the people is there for painting and there for everything but when you slice it goes away and doesnt print it just has an empty void where it should be. Took it to tinker cad and its there, just goes away after slicing.

[@BasedPatriot403]

When I first got my printer and did an amd print I freaked out because it shows the flushing block as being huge and I thought it was going to actually print that size and waste a huge amount of filament. Was so relieved when it was only a few layers high when actually printed

[@rameeti]

At 4:40, you stated that it is not generic PLA but in fact it was Matt from Bambu. Why did the AMS not know this? With the RFID tags, isn't the AMS supposed to be able to automatically know what Bambu filaments are in the AMS? Did someone by chance uncheck the option to check the filament on Insertion Update? Or did they uncheck the Update on startup? Kinda silly to uncheck those options.

[@AndrewAHayes]

In my Prepare I have the first 2 colours set correct but position 3 is empty but is showing a colour, when I go to Devices the AMS slots have a ? and when I go to change the material it wont allow mw to set the colour. Can You Help Me?

[@dkman123]

As for recycling filament the only thing I've seen so far is the ArtMe3D filament maker. This is a good video of it kzbin.info/www/bejne/eIWTZZqifKmdeJY This guy has a professional grinder to chop the scraps into bits. It would be great if the price of this came down though.

[@gmanimages2642]

Just looking that this and the waste that you show a pime tower and purge waste out the back of the machine. Yes the pile looks more impressive BUT! that's an OR statement. Either you purge to a tower or purge to some waste bucket. The the waste is the same amount purged either way. Second you can also save wastage with purge as infill option in prusa slicer. And depending colour or number of walls un-noticeable on the model and your waste goes down dramatically.

[@PhuVet]

You also have to remember that extruded diameter vs. filament diameter is a factor. Those waste pieces are the extruder diameter not filament diameter. So you waste less with a smaller nozzle.

[@timmontano8792]

It would be good if that wiping tower could somehow be used as a secondary non-critical model so as to be able to use that filament rather than wasting it. For example, I print mainly utilitarian kinds of models. My main model would be set up as described in the video. If I were printing required small attachments like nuts or bolts and it didn't matter what color they were as long as they were also well printed and functional, all of that otherwise wasted filament would no longer be wasted.

[@RobSandstromDesigns]

Forgot to ask, do you have a link to flexi panda? My grandkids would love this and did't see it in your description.

[@TwaanLab]

I was wondering, is there a setting in the studio to ‘not change filament’ so you can create a layered color overflow(?)? I know there’s filament types for to create overflows, but it would be cool to play with this manually within the studio instead of coincidence from the filament type (not adjustable)..

[@vinkecaban7341]

Hi, there are some options for the wasted material like you say, out there are some people trying to melt it and make some other pieces. With an injection mold machine this is a great option. Also, a pellet extruder can be another option, just need a shatter machine to make wasted material smaller and can be used directly into a pellet extruder. I think the most important is to make a good division of the wasted material by color and type of filament to make color as precise as possible. .

[@GeAsita]

Hello! thank you for this tutorial, it was really useful. Can you please tell me how to prevent stl files or makerworld files from overriding all my profile options? I have to set all my filament settings every single time I try to download something!

[@vorissoileau2337]

What if what you want to paint isn't sectioned? I have Minnie Mouse and the entire head changes to whatever color I select. Can't paint the poka dots and ribbon different colors.

[@KenLord]

Why use a prime tower, when it can all go out the poop chute? Giving you room for another duck. I do full-bed prints of topographic models with structures using different colours, depicting engineering projects, often in multiple full-bed tiles. A prime tower would mean smaller tiles.

[@weboflies999]

I guess I don't fully get the "Section View" in the color painting dialog? Is that just to sorta paint hard to reach areas? Any other purpose?

[@Hutch_x]

I wonder if there’s a way to set it to use the color change purge on supports only. That way it doesn’t waste any filament.

[@davidsmith1018]

Was "Flush to object" not an available feature at the time? Basically just put an appropriate height fidget toy or something that the color doesn't matter on the plate and have bambu flush to that object.

[@DylanCarr-g1y]

So I know there is a way to put your printer poop into an object. But is there a way to make your prime tower a model too? That way you aren’t printing just a block but maybe another model or something?

[@kyrtd]

Watched all your vids to learn how to get down the basics at slicing. My class is teaching me CAD but ignores slicing but you've given me plenty to study, thank you. Your vids are better than some 10x your sub count, please keep it up!

[@ItsMeaDMaDe]

That’s great. Glad I could help. And thanks for the comment.

[@woggersoverlandadventures]

Great video! Can you set the depth of the painting somewhere once its been painted in Bambu Labs Studio? I have lettering that I would like two layers deep

[@ronpope1950]

Please explain how you went from one duck to 8? You did it but did not explain what to click on. Thank You

[@ericmiddaugh4416]

hello have you used cookiecad filament and what settings in the bambu lab do you select i have regular pla and silk cookiecad

[@mrlancekink]

great tutorial. And your voice and speaking style (intonation, pauses, etc.) along with the on screen examples made uptake super easy. thanks!

[@michaelvanscoyk746]

Im trying to do a straight line around the perimeter on a flat object, like a frame. How would you do that?

[@mickwreay3034]

Is it not possible to do all the purging and tower into another printed item? I'm thinking something basic like a door stop or the like.

[@MemorialSound]

Thank you!!! I'm starting with ams and multicolor print.

[@lcalbero]

Amazing video. Just got my Bambu with AMS and you explained everything. Congrats and thank you !

[@OldManScribs]

eyes were gold LOL now there blue not the actual painting

[@ItsMeaDMaDe]

Ha ha. Yeah I did a quick swap before I hit print I was wondering if anyone would notice 😂

[@OldManScribs]

I;m really Happy to see you read these. Thanks Much I'm new to all this, loving it, but sometimes having trouble figuring it out. Mainly taking something from makerworld which is precolor picked and my colors are different how to switch them easier. But hey Thanks much great to hear from you....@@ItsMeaDMaDe

[@B360utfan]

Thank you for the tutorial very well done. I am new to all this. I have the A1 and have yet to see a prime tower i have only done a couple mixed colors. Does the A1 even make a tower.

[@shaydu1967]

I pick the material and color and 10 seconds later it goes back to question marks.

[@dougpaterson4490]

Excellent video .. thanks! Can you do one on cleaning up prints after printing

[@clscale]

If you have two features on the same layer and only want to paint one of the two features using the layer tool how does that work?

[@josephculbertson3555]

I cant get my build plate to come clean into the screen like in your video. It wants to be way to the right. How can I correct this?

[@tiagoalves2543]

For someone like yourself that paints models, cant you get the printer to use a model qs a prime tower? So you end up with a weird coloured model that can still be used?

[@ItsMeaDMaDe]

Typically the color prints I do I don’t paint if I’m going to paint it I just leave it one color then there is no waste

[@tiagoalves2543]

@@ItsMeaDMaDe I meant make the prime Tower a model, and then paint it.

[@ItsMeaDMaDe]

@tiagoalves2543 oh gotcha yeah that would be a good idea

[@tiagoalves2543]

I am awaiting delivery of an x1 carbon and ams combo that should be here tomorrow. Cannot wait!

[@rodneymellett3873]

soaking them in a tub of high strength acetone make some really strong plastic glue.

[@tylagismo112]

For the prime/flush tower you can create a "flushie" basically just create a new print from what's being flushed, super helpful if you don't mind the colour of the print 😁

[@jamesbrehm6941]

How?

[@tylagismo112]

@@jamesbrehm6941 there are tutorials on YT but from what I remember (in Bambu slicer) you put an object on the plate and right click and select flush into object there's two options for it just to be the infill or both infill and outside It significantly reduces the size of the purge block

[@Jestey6]

@@jamesbrehm6941You​⁠​⁠ took the word right out of my mouth, perhaps in another video 😉

[@brianwgDK]

32:10 you do realize the purge tower is also waist. and i don´t use the AMS for color.

[@rameeti]

It looks like Edge Detection is no longer an option in the Color Painting toolset. It seems that Edge Detection is always On.

[@alexmiller7879]

it would be nice if they were able to use the purged material as infill instead of just wasting it.

[@josht999444]

One thing you can do with the filament is heat it in a silicone mold and make coasters. But making it into filament is fair.

[@ThomasKjeldsen-g5f]

if you change the setting infil before outline you can turn down the filament purge

[@ajeesh3485]

what is difference between prime tower and waste filaments, both are waste right?

[@ti0chema]

I just got my Bambu and I’m learning a lot from your videos!! keep the Bambu series going. I subscribed of course!

[@JBGecko13yt]

Very informative! I am keeping my filament waste also for the multi color / material recycling. that's hard also because I have some ASA mixed into my bucket. I am keeping my glow filament waste separate as I plan to shred it and use it to include in resin molds :) very excited for a Bambu like Filament recycle system that also has filament welding to combine filaments the next thing for you to explore is the adaptive smoothing feature for round items, like the panda's belly.

[@SaiLentKnight]

Great tutorial! I never knew a use case for "Section view", until now 🎉

[@ItsMeaDMaDe]

Glad it was helpful!

[@Silveredy]

3d print a mold of something… melt all your waste and drop on it… new way to use your waste

[@garethwillis7688]

What a wonderful tutorial ! After watching this I bought this printer and the AMS 😊

[@remconet]

11:49 this shouldn't have happened when you color by layer.

[@meesterjochem1]

It would be a great idea to let the printer print the same model (or load in another model) with the waste in stead of a simple tower. Then you could paint the model and also use it.

[@JohnVanderbeck]

Unfortunately it isn't that simple. In theory it could be done, but you will note the tower is always the same height as the tallest print on the bed. It has to be that heigh so that it can always be used. So if you were able to wipe into an actual object rather than a tower if would need to be constrained to something that is always the tallest print on the bed which makes it really hard from a UI/UX point of view even before any other challenges it might bring.

[@ivantodorov9228]

Helpful video, thank you!

[@ItsMeaDMaDe]

Glad it was helpful!

[@stuartlark6441]

Hi Chris, I'm a little confused, I have a mosaic palette 3 pro and it produces a transition tower but there's no poop, why is there poop AND a transition tower surely there should be one or the other?

[@ItsMeaDMaDe]

I don’t have any experience with the mosaic but from my understanding the poop is a faster and more efficient way to clear colors. That being said the tower is just a safety net you don’t have to print one it just ensures it’s cleared all the color. I have noticed some towers are more solid than others so it’s not putting out that much sometimes.

[@mbrown5930]

when i have to send something via usps or ups, instead of using shipping peanuts i use shipping poop

[@calvinthedestroyer]

How do you open a saved STL in Bambu labs module app?

[@franwhelan6887]

Does anyone have the link to the large poop bin shown in this video please?

[@mikada1050]

Love the info! Being new, this was very easy to follow along. Thanks!!

[@ItsMeaDMaDe]

Glad it was helpful!