Bambu Studio Advanced Tutorial

[@glennfelpel9785]

I am just now catching up with you training. You are by far the best at teaching. Your efforts are much appreciated. Thank you.

[@3DRevolution]

So glad you're finding it useful, plenty more on the way! Thanks for commenting!

[@Chinnookcrazy352]

Thank you for posting a video of advanced settings. I hope we see more like this so we can share and learn how to make more advanced adjustments to make better and faster prints.

[@3DRevolution]

Really glad you found it helpeful. Plenty more to come, happy printing!

[@MrJixies]

Magnificent Tutorial, Well done! Subscribed!

[@3DRevolution]

Awesome, thank you!

[@ThereIsProbablyNoGod]

You make great tutorials. Thanks for that. I just got a Bambulab P1S to replace my Flashforge Creator Pro, which I had for 8 yrs. I used Simplify 3D with the Creator Pro and now switch to Bambulab Studio/Orca Slicer. Bambulab Studio looks great and I got my first prints out without any tutorials, but while watching your beginner tutorial I found some new and interesting functions. Now I am going to watch the advanced tutorial to dive deeper into it. I subscribed and will take a look at your other videos too, as there seems to be a lot of interesting information to find in your videos.

[@ImolaS3]

So useful! after 5 yers with Prisa mk3 I moved to X1C and needed to learn the new terminologies. Thanks loads

[@a7xfanben]

Another amazing tutorial, thank you so much.

[@3DRevolution]

You're most welcome! Thank you!

[@LeckieInstallsLondon]

I would love to see a deep dive into post processing scripts! There is very little info out there at the moment and it is a very powerful tool if you can get creative with how you use it. for example, I wrote a script for Simplify 3D which can add aditional filament when using a smaller nozzle; the actual nozzle is still a 0.4mm but the slicer thinks its a 0.2mm resulting in a hollow space between walls but I increased filament flow by a % to make up for it and doing this allows the slicer to pickup on really fine text details in the wall which is great for marking part numbers on your prints. I havent found a way to get my code into bambu yet. I just got the printer a few days ago so there is lots to learn! thanks for this vid, it was helpful! Subscribed!

[@3DRevolution]

A good one to add to the list! Thanks for the suggestion! Glad this video was useful and thanks for the sub!

[@tourajkhosravi8486]

I love you're vedios, and the great detail you are going through. I just wished you would use the magnifying glass to better show, and we can clearly see where you are pointing and read the options since it's pretty difficult to see when viewing on your phone. However, thanks again for your efforts. ❤

[@3DRevolution]

I'm glad you like the videos and thanks very much for your feedback. I understand that it may not be that easy to follow on a phone. Whilst I do zoom in on occasion, I tend to keep it full screen as when viewed on a computer that would be the same size as when the software iis being used on it, and I like to keep it easy to see where on the screen I'm moving to. However, you're not the first to make this request and in my very latest videos I am taking this on board a little more at the times where it counts. Thanks again for your comment, and happy printing!

[@amoreno830]

Great video. thanks!!

[@babali7588]

I just here to learn what softening temperature is. Is it the same thing with bed temperature? But I couldn't get my answer.btw it was a great video thanks.

[@BelowAverageGaming]

Shot in the dark here, but I've been getting the " benchy hull line" on a pot that I'm trying to make. It creates a ring pretty much in the same spot (about a quarter way up the pot) which coincidentally a floor is built inside the pot to house components in the same spot. When I look in the slicer and check layer times it's showing me there's a significant change in time for that layer that is giving me the ringing. Is there a way I can make the slicer change speed on a specific layer and then continue back to normal after those layers?

[@3DRevolution]

Hey there. This is actually something I'm planning on covering a video later this year. There's a number of things that can lead to this and unfortunately it's not always the same thing. You're absolutely right that the layer time is most often the issue though, and adjusting the speeds is a way you can try to tackle it. What you want to do is in Bambu Studio, right click on your model, and select 'Height Range Modifier'. Select the range in the object list on the left and set the height range you want to adjust the speeds for. Then (making sure you still have the range selected in the object list), got to the speed tab, and adjust the speeds that you want to be affected for those layers. Let me know if this helps you at all.

[@BelowAverageGaming]

@@3DRevolution thanks for the response! Giving this a shot right now. And the slicer after doing what you recommended, I did notice those layer lines decrease! I couldn't get rid of all of them but 90% of them. I'm doing a test print now to see what happens but it's a 5-hour print. A follow-up question would be, can you add more than one of the height range modifiers at a time for the same model? For example, I was able to do it layer 54 through layer 58. But I would like to continue on past that and do layer 64. When I tried clicking on the modifier again it just kept taking me to the currently used one

[@3DRevolution]

@@BelowAverageGamingGreat, let me know how it goes. I've been playing with this myself and looking forward to publishing a video on it in the coming weeks. To add a second layer height modifier, in the object list on the left, click on the word 'Layers' under the object you're affecting. At the bottom it will show the height range that one is affecting. Click the + to the right of that and it'll then add an aditional range. You can then select that height range from the object list, adjust it to the heights you want, and apply differnt settings to that height range.

[@charlesk44]

Thanks very much for all the information that you have given us again. I have just upgraded from a Robo 3d which I have used for six years to a Bambu X1 Carbon and what a difference 6 years has made in the 3d world. I’ve only ever produced practical things and it paid for itself within weeks and I’ve always said to others that 3d printing is about designing but I now realize machines make a very big difference. Could you tell me what / where I have to change for this Support problem. The support itself seems ok with the Top Interface Layers being Rectilinear pattern as you say but the Object needing support ends up with lines of filament which appears to be bridging with gaps in between each strand on the underneath surface that needed support. You see strands but not a smooth wall. That’s if you get what I mean.

[@3DRevolution]

Hey Charles, thanks for the comment. Haha yes, technology moves so fast these days, 6 years allows for 5-7 generations of evolution. Sorry if I'm not understanding your question exactly, but I believe you're asking why it is that the surfaces of your model that are printing above support material aren't coming out smooth? If that's what you're asking, it's because support material by default leaves a gap between the interface layer and the bottom of the object so that the support material doesn't fuse with the model. It prevents it drooping down so much that it fails the print, but it won't prevent slight drooping or imperfections. If you want to reduce this gap, if you've got an AMS with your X1C you can use a different material for the interface layer (a material that won't bond easily with whatever you're printing with) and then you can reduce the z distance between the interace and the model.

[@eclipseviberecords]

so this video is 7 months old, did you make the mentioned arachne deep dive tutorial?

[@mlcoombe]

can you advise how to improve the surface finish of small overhangs that dont require supports? I find that the finish on overhangs on sections facing the print plate are worse than those facing away from the plate.

[@3DRevolution]

Slopes that are facing down are always going to be lower quality than those facing upwards, as they have a section of the extrusion that is printed in open air and so will sag a bit before cooling. There are a number of things you can do to alleviate this but using a smaller layer height is one of the best ways. If it's an extreme overhang (albeit small), support material may be necessary. Depending on the material you're printing with, you may also be able to increase part cooling, to solidify overhangs quicker. Alternatively, look at different ways you can orientate the part on the print bed to mean it's no longer a downward facing slope.

[@PapaWaykith]

what an awesome collection of plastic and people.

[@keithclark8030]

Can you put things in Dark mode when creating a video? I can't see the interface too well.

[@3DRevolution]

Whilst I won't be going into dark mode for my tutorials, I've had a lot of feedback about visibility in my on-screen tutorials and In more recent videos I've made adjustments to make it MUCH easier to see both the mouse position, as well as any menus, text, button selection or information I'm actively focussing on. So future videos will definitely be easier to follow even on a smaller device. Thanks for the feedback and I hope you've still found this video helpful. I notice you worked through both the Beginners tutorial and this Advanced one, I hope you've found they've bennifited you. I have plenty more for you to get stuck into when you feel ready. Thanks again.

[@keithclark8030]

Ok, I understand. I am vision impaired, so I won't be able to see your videos. Does? Does the software have Dark mode? Or at least a way I can make text bowed or a larger font.

[@cheizaguirre5494]

I’m having an issue can you help me with. I’m trying to print a 2.0inch round by 2.0inch tall diameter in PLA, but my part is coming out 1.990 and the other side is 2.005. How can i get this dimensions closer and round. I tried the XY compensation but no luck

[@3DRevolution]

Hi there, I'm afraid that's just about inside the expected dimensional accuracy of many FDM printers, but 0.0003in (0.01mm) is a lot more preferable. Is the rate of inacuracy constant across prints and is it constant with your pritners axis even if you rotate the orientation of the print?

[@RonnieBlaze281]

I can not turn on the Advanced setting under the Printer settings. EDIT: Found the problem, i had Development mode enabled under preferences, not sure why that does not allow you to enable advanced mode.

[@3DRevolution]

Sorry for the late reply but glad you sorted the problem. That is unusual, I'm not sure the reason for that either but I'll look into it. Thanks for updating your post here, and happy printing!

[@reptiloidx8942]

You never went back to using different supports for the same model ........ Waiting

[@billbyrd9845]

I really appreciate all the work you've put into this, but... all the menus are so small even in theatre mode, that I can't read them at all. Most Bambu KZbinrs do the same thing.

[@3DRevolution]

I'm sorry to hear you have trouble with this Bill. The screen capture of Bambu Studio is full screen so if you view this video full screen the menus would be the same size as they would be when you're using Bambu Studio on the same display. I don't tend to zoom into the menus as I move around, especially on these bigger tutorial videos as if I did it would feel quite chaotic and viewers can lose reference context for where I'm interacting with. However, especially in the menu section I tend to be actively talking about each option as I select it (which will also be reflected in my manually produced closed captions) so this shouldn't for the most part be a problem. Is there a particular thing you were finding difficulty with?

[@billbyrd9845]

@@3DRevolution Thanks for the response. Maybe I just have a poor monitor. You might get some volunteers, sort of a focus group, and see what they say about the legibility of the menu selections. Either way, I know you're putting out good stuff. I can tell that from the one video I watched. Subbed and liked.

[@3DRevolution]

@@billbyrd9845 Sorry for the late reply, and thank you. I absolutely encourage feedback and try to improve my videos for my audience wherever I can. Thanks for the like and sub, happy printing!