Thanks for this video as I have a 20ish year old apple tree and a few younger fruit trees, all planted in wood chip gardens. I've been applying the KNF maintenance spray, but I struggle with the when of that. I have made JMS before, looks like I overbrewed and overfed, the details are extremely helpful!
@dgraham49663 жыл бұрын
Great job! Thanks for sharing! I am going to try this method. I used a similar one a while back but I like the addition of the salt for minerals.
@SanctuaryGardenLiving3 жыл бұрын
Thanks for all the great videos!
@MrTuks6793 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the update.
@dimitridiakoumopoulos83343 жыл бұрын
Hi.Can tell me please if i can use tap water when to mix the jms?Thank you
@BareMtnFarm3 жыл бұрын
Hi @Dimitri Diakoumopoulos Most tap water contains chlorine or chloramines to disinfect the water. The chlorine can dissipate if you either aerate the water for several hours or let the water sit in a container that gets exposed to UV light for a day. Chloramines are trickier they do not break down without either adding something to neutralize them such as 1/4 tsp of humic acid per 25 gallons of water or a mechanical filtration like reverse osmosis. Either of these disinfectants will effectively kill your inoculant rendering a poor outcome. You can use rain water, well water or a well filtered pond water to avoid these chemicals.
@dimitridiakoumopoulos83343 жыл бұрын
@@BareMtnFarm Thank you very much for all these details.I always like and watch your videos because you speak so calm and share thinks
@laneeacannon14503 жыл бұрын
@@dimitridiakoumopoulos8334 You can add a little vitamin C powder to remove chloramines.
@jcmustian3 жыл бұрын
So he claims in the book that the JMS protects the fruit trees from frost damage. Have you seen that to be true? I'm in an area with frequent late frosts.
@BareMtnFarm3 жыл бұрын
Since last year on our 10 yr old Crab-apple tree we have been applying JMS twice a month in the growing season and once per month during dormancy. Plus 1 month before bud break we applied it 4 times on a 5 day rotation. We noticed the following changes in the tree: 1.) blossoms this year were more double even though we had frosts well into late April, 2.) Leaf volume and size was significantly higher, 3.) Leaf Rust levels after blossom were maybe 10% of prior years, 4.) The tree set fruit for the first time in its lifetime that did not abort, and 5.) The ground under the trees drip line where the JMS was applied has now grown a healthy mix of grasses, brassica (mustards), wild vetch where the surrounding area outside the drip line is primarily tap rooted weeds such as dandelion, teasel, wild carrot. So far anecdotally, the solution has made a measurable positive improvement.
@jcmustian3 жыл бұрын
@@BareMtnFarm wow, thank you for the detailed answer. I truly appreciate it so much! I am very excited to try it for myself. I feel like this could be a gamechanger for me here in Colorado.
@BareMtnFarm3 жыл бұрын
@@jcmustian Its truly helped us and best wishes on next years endeavors! Thanks for watching!
@jcmustian3 жыл бұрын
@@BareMtnFarm I wonder if spraying blossoms before a late frost would be helpful.
@jcmustian3 жыл бұрын
@@BareMtnFarm thank you so much!
@bluejay39452 жыл бұрын
I’ve been doing this solution this year and I must admire that I’m not impressed so maybe you all can help steer me. I’ve used a high quality compost and worm castings with 2 potatoes all stuffed into a compost tea bag and placed in a 5 gallon bucket of rainwater containing 15 grams of sea salt. I let the concoction sit for 4 days. Then I’ve tried the brew full strength on a hard packed clay area, diluted 1:10 throughout the property and 1:20 in the veggie garden. I have not seen noticeable results. A specimen tree that is in decline is still declining. Veggies don’t look like anything different from normal years. IMO the brew is diluted so much that you are rendering any useful microbes worthless. I’m getting the stink and the frothing. In applying twice per month. I would love to anecdotally provide a glowing review but after today I’m frustrated for having to hump what amounts to a water around everywhere and dump it. My wife must have recognized my frustration today. She asked me what specifically I’m trying to brew. Quite honestly I haven’t the foggiest what specific microbes I want or actually have. I can see this brew actually creating some nasty microbes depending on your compost source. Help? Any input from experienced folks would go a long way in making my sore back feel better
@BareMtnFarm2 жыл бұрын
Hi @Blue Jay I first want to preface my thoughts with a big caveat. I don't know anything about the history of your garden site regarding soil conditions etc. So my thoughts here may or may not be relevant but here's somethings I have encountered along my journey. First is that many garden sites have compaction zones that vary in depth, thickness and depending on the time of year hardness. These compaction zones may have been created years ago on your site from construction equipment or past practices such as tilling. Compaction can be bizarre. You may think that you have great soil, lots of organic materials, seems light and fluffy but compaction can create wet anaerobic zones closer to the root zones of plants that manifest in poor plant health in addition roots can't go as deep and spread more to the surface. The theory on good JMS regularly applied will help break compaction. This maybe true but you maybe waiting a long time. Honestly the most effective thing is to first dig down and see if you have a compaction layer. Many times it's just 8-10 inches down, right below where poor tillage created it. You need to break this layer mechanically, broadfork, double dig etc. In the JADAM book Youngsang Cho deep tilled his farm then built his raised beds up at least 12" above grade. Adding the tilled depth under he had at least 18-20" uncompacted. Folks kind of miss that part of the story. Using good JMS/JLF after this gave him consistent improvement. Regarding the JMS a couple of thoughts come to mind. First the microbe solution and it's components are greatly influenced by condition and type of inoculum used. Finished aerobic compost depending on it's age and materials used is usually heavily influenced by bacteria before fungus begins to colonize. Diversity on something like leave mold is higher due to the slow decomposition process or the soil compost interface right below and old aged pile is also good. Worm castings although great for the garden if done well also tend to be limited and bacterially dominated. I have found that JMS made from leaf mold or compost soil performs best for me. A good batch of JMS under temps like 75-85F day and 60-65F night is optimum at about 35 hrs. It also doesn't stink, it has a faint sweet smell(most likely the effects of yeasts or actinomycetes). I have found the batch when aged beyond 50-60 hrs to be basically stagnant. I have looked at various batches of JMS under the microscope and have found, bacteria, bacillus types, yeasts, actinomycetes, and lots of protozoans like flagellates, etc. The species of these changes with the brew temps which means it changes as the season changes. So adding a brew that is made way past it's peak would unfortunately not yield a strong or any diverse biology but it would be more akin to a mineral solution ( seasalt and it's trace elements). Also, if your inoculum was anaerobic (think purchased worm castings in plastic bag from a garden store) you'll many times get a foam layer develop but it'll smell bad. Bottom line, if your brew stinks its fertilizer not biology. I hope this helps some. Let me know if you have some other thoughts.
@bluejay39452 жыл бұрын
@@BareMtnFarm thank you for your great response. Areas of compaction for me are caused by huge tree root systems that have extended laterally drying out soil beyond the drip line coupled with compaction in the same areas from equipment . It would be a massive effort to fork the area or double dig but I may have some help thus fall with core aeration. I will try to change my source of material to leaf mold and try again. I was hoping for a quick fix but there’s never one. Glad to know you have observed microbes for your brew. There is a lot of research especially via John Kempf at advancing eco agriculture showing that iron and manganese are only assimilated in a reduced environment and the best way to achieve this is in with facultative anaerobic microbes which I believe you are brewing. I will keep looking into your process. Thanks again
@riensmiddelhof90423 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the great info! It's kinda hard to find real experiences with the use of JMS. Do you actually make a fresh batch of JMS each time, or would it be possible to prepare a (dormant?) stock?
@laneeacannon14503 жыл бұрын
You have to use it right away while microorganisms are active.
@chrischandler30413 жыл бұрын
Appreciate the video, but the audio was honestly hard to hear.. it seemed muffled and the music seemed to overwhelm the talking.
@BareMtnFarm3 жыл бұрын
Hi Chris, I appreciate your comment. Tony filmed the video in portrait and my challenge as the editor was to turn it into a regular landscape video. Not our best efforts. I missed the adjustment to the music, was just so happy to get the clips turned correctly. Thank you so much for watching. Denise
@rrittenhouse3 жыл бұрын
@@BareMtnFarm lol that explains some things watching it a second time through. Tricky tricky!! Great job in turning it into a watchable landscape video. Yeah the audio might have been iffy at times but that issue is hard to solve as an editor lol. GIGO