Barnes TTSX Copper Fouling 85 Rounds

[@lurebenson7722]

I was using the Barns X bullets in 6 calibers from the start of them and now I only shot the TSX - TTSX - LRX for hunting game so I've never had a problem with a loss of accuracy. I am also not looking for competition match shooting accuracy because the 6-inch area on a deer or large like Elk or Yukon Alaska Moose is a kill zone when I am shooting large caliber magnum that that wreck the vitals of any animal's organs, and I am shooting rifles with a start of 4500 + Foot pounds of energy. I do when I can use the New Powders that devolve copper fouling. For large rifles I often use the 6.5 Stable with copper remover or the CFE-223 or CFE black those have chemical copper remover. Now when buying powders, I do look for the powders with the chemical copper removers

[@jeffcoopersghost5159]

I recently made the switch to monolithic copper bullets in my defensive guns. Specifically, Defiant Munitions Total Copper Xpanding series. Definitely not worried about the fouling.... im still using lead fmj to train with, and Defiant offers a range/training load that balistically matches their copper defence round. I also cant imagine pistol bbls building up more fouling than a rifle bbl... and if it ever does, copper solvents are a thing, sooo.... not a huge deal to me.

[@Morinehtur]

I recently picked up a bore scope and had a look in my old Remington 742 30-06 from 1968. The barrel had copper buildup mostly in the last 8 inches that looked like copper ice flows laying on top of the rifling. I took it down to bare metal over the course of a week because i am going to try some solid coppers for the first time. The barrel has mostly seen nosler partions but still has a nice chamber and throat. Bore scopes are awesome. Hopefully, those solid coppers will be too. The bad news, i had a look inside my Marlin model 60 22lr (long tube mag) and found fire cracking from the start of the rifling to the end of the barrel. That is a lot of rounds and many dead squirrels, still a usefull rifle though.

[@augustusczar7375]

Once copper fouling starts and reaches a certain point you do not want to clean the fouling. At that point pits will be left behind after the copper is cleaned

[@normankaster917]

I would start with seeing if the gun will group, sometimes this may take a box or even more of the new ammo in a gun that I know shoots well/ok with other factory ammo, I would say if it's not under 2" @50 yards I then would clean the crap out of it, so that I could have a fresh base line for best accuracy. Now that it's totally clean shoot the rest of the box and maybe run into the next box, sometimes it can take a few rounds to fill in the voids meaning your trying to copper foul the barrel. Ounce you found the best accuracy your done you've found that "certain point" now keep it oiled when storing it as well as oil patch/ dry patch before you head to the range and you should be good for a few boxes or until you see a point of impact change. Changing ammo mid way can actually affect this too, so keep that in mind hope this helps.

[@Tenforward1]

Thanks for that video. Well done. I have a model 70 featherweight in 270. I put a stainless Hart barrell on years ago. Barrel breakin included JB bore polish. This has made a very smooth bore and barely picks up the copper. After 40 rounds of TSX it takes 6 to 10 patches of copper solvent and it is clean. My 1921 Mosin is pitted and takes forever to clean. Condition matters. Congrats on the group size, its a keeper.

[@normankaster917]

Oil her up and put her away good for next time👍... My custom Mauser 30-06 Douglas 26" #4 barrel is lights out from 100-600 yards and the smallest 3 shot group is a jagged hole @100 and 600 was 2-1/8" using Barnes TTSX 165GR and H4350 pushing it at 3078 fps average haven't scrubbed it out with a brush or used copper remover at all just oil patch with ATF ( automatic trans fluid) and run a dry patch before i shoot and i think I'm just over 200 rounds and it's still a clover leaf producer @200 yards...my EC tuner muzzle break is so sweet by keeping the groups together when you play around with hand loads, money well spent, i put it to the test and ran it out to 850 yards got 3 hits on a 18" steel gong ...i think you would definitely be able to tune your 270 for above 3k fps using a EC precision product.

[@milo555100]

Thank you for this production. Well done. I have heard that when using copper bullets (monolithic)….. accuracy may be improved if you clean the barrel down to bare steel first (with a copper solvent). Have you found this to be true? Recently heard this from Ron Spomer and then tested on another channel. Id love to know your opinion. Thank you

[@wdtaut5650]

I saw Ron's video and the Backfire video supporting this. I also saw (somewhere, might have been Ron again) that it works both ways. If you switch from copper bullets to lead jacket bullets, clean to bare metal. Here's a twist: Hornady makes a "copper" bullet that is all gilding metal, not pure copper. I wonder whether that one requires bare metal cleaning.

[@dalebenson6859]

I own a customized Brevex Mauser I had a Douglas air Guage 30 inch battel installed and then chambered in 8 mm-378 Weatherby magnum a wildcat cartridge. This is the second barrel in 8mm-378 Wby mag to be on the rifle due to it was bought with that barrel. I have owned this at least 30 years and it had only shot for game hunting the Barns X bullets which I still have allot of them in 8 mm 200 grain and 220 grain than I have the barns TSX 8 mm in 165 grain. The rifle has so many bullets fired through this barrel no way I can even estimate how many times it has been fired and to this day the accuracy is spot on to calling the shot where it hits in targets or on game animals. The Barns X 200 grain bullets have the blue lubricant on then that Barns applied for this time of making these bullets. All of my rifles and I have many all shoot for game hunting the Barns TSX - TTSX or LRX bullets

[@tripplebeards3427]

In response to my first post, I would assume that if they started coding again like they did with the blue XLC when they first got into business, it would increase the diameter for better accuracy. It would increase the diameters by .002 like powder coating does and also prevent copper following.

[@wilmamcdermott3065]

All I shoot is copper bullets out of my 338 lapua still groups under a 1/2 inches at 200 yards

[@jimscallen6452]

I have shot 1,000’s of Barnes 168gr ttsx through my 30-06. . As far as copper build up. I have seen a lot of copper build up. But that’s due to the amount of of ttsx and tax bullets I have used over the years. Every one e and a while it’s good to remove the copper build up. You’re not going to get all the copper out. As far as accuracy goes. 1/4” inch at 100yd 1/2” to 3/4” at 200yd 1”- 1 1/2 at 300yd. Barnes ttsx and tax 168gr is what I hunt with.

[@timothyorendorff7642]

Yes, watch for build up but the gun community tends toward fanaticism on many things. You want barrel imperfections “ironed” over. Also, the gilding metal used for cup and core bullets can scrape a monolithic bullet so I just shoot copper solids in my rifle. It would be good to clean if going from one to the other. IMHO

[@tripplebeards3427]

The reason why some get more copper fowling than others is because of the bullet to barrel bore fitment. There are shooters that get ridiculous accuracy with Barnes and I’m not one of them. Those that do have barrels that are smaller than the diameter of the mono projectile. I get super amounts of copper fowling in my barrels and horrible accuracy. After several ladder tests with pie plate size groups on average with five different guns p,,,and another one that I couldn’t hit a 4 foot piece of cardboard at 100 yards. When I did finally connected on paper it was key holing. I ended up measuring the diameter of my Barnes Boolits, and they were ALL undersized anywhere from .001 to .0025” vs the slugged barrels. They are no different than shooting undersized Cast bullets in a rifle. When they’re not the correct fitment, you’re going to get fowling and poor groups. That’s also why Barnes tells you that their bullets like a lot of jump. Started really far back from the lands. They’re not gonna hit perfectly center when entering the chamber and at least grab the sides of your rifling when you’re using undersize projectiles which is most of the time I’m guessing with most people.

[@tS-sn7jt]

Copper bullets and barrel ware will it cut the life of your barrel

[@tS-sn7jt]

I tried these ttsx bullets and in my experience these bullets cause excessive copper fouling not worth the headaches

[@allankark5741]

You might have barrel problem. Have runned hundreds of 168gr bullets 820ms. Still best grups ever from riffel.

[@justadbeer]

All barrels are different. Accuracy wise, one may like Barnes bullets, and the same brand barrel on another rifle may not shoot the same with them. I've been loading them in my 300 win Mag and 264 Win mag exclusively now for as long as I can remember w/o any issues. Also, it's not like any other bullet your shooting doesn't have a copper jacket. My 300 Win shoots the Barnes TSX with superb accuracy, whereas my 264 Win shoots best with Hornady SST's, but I quickly found that the SST didn't preform well while in Africa and loosing just a slight/negligible bit of accuracy with the Barnes bullets was worth the final results. I've also found that the Barnes Tac TX in my 300Blk is excellent on whitetail. You just can't beat Barnes bullets for taking game IMO.

[@v71-v9n]

Unless your shoot cast lead bullets your gonna get some copper fouling. Barnes bullets has around 50% less contact with the barrel than standard cup and core bullets. Hammer bullets are even less contact.

[@ScottHolloway-wp2cx]

110ttsx 270 3350-3400 fps nlce groups half moa and less no copper problem 😊