ep317 - weathering with liquitex acrylic inks

[@johnmattioli9077]

Very cool demonstration on using acrylic inks for weathering. I will definitely give these techniques a try on my current build. Thanks for sharing!

[@sylvainplante9882]

Thank you Will, informative as always. Love your ingenuity!

[@kykevin1179]

I recently discovered your channel. I want to tell you how helpful your videos are. I have been modeling for about two years a KZbind names Plasmo kit a passion for modeling in me. Your tips are incredibly helpful and I really enjoy watching your videos and learning new techniques!

[@kenhanson1819]

Pure awesomeness! Thanks for the video, Will.

[@georgedesjardins6080]

Brilliantly adding to the art as usual….off to my local craft store now to support the local economy and in turn make my work space a little smaller:)

[@nscrfns]

Awesome tutorial. One of your best. Keep up the great work.

[@michaelmccormick9849]

Just recently discovered your video’s and have been slowly watching them from the beginning. I have learned so much and improved my skills quite a bit thanks to them. Looking forward to your future videos.

[@10percenttrue]

Fantastic bit of knowledge sharing... as usual.

[@timothywood4402]

Great video Will.thanks.more tools for the box ,can’t beat it.

[@jcosborne631]

This is great stuff. I'll be adding this to my armor weathering process.

[@mdanumurthi]

so cool when you did that character voice on the "duh, X20A is just IPA". LOL

[@dougeby3996]

Thanks Will, great video on a new technique I can’t wait to try. I’ve used the Liquitex black to paint cockpit details after seeing Matt McDougall using it and love the stuff for its flow control. Now, as usual, I’ll be heading to Amazon to spend some money after spending some time with you!

[@MrJstone00]

Fantastic video Will, looking forward to messing around with these soon

[@robertclassicconstructiona1830]

Great advice , placed my order on Amazon and they will be here tomorrow, trying a zenithal prime has been something I've wanted to do for some time and using inks will b so much better then regular paint........as usual the model looks amazing .....

[@TheGreywulff]

Well thanks Will. This old dog just learned a new trick...😉. I definitely will be experimenting with these inks.

[@mossbergshobbygames8815]

Love the channel

[@Arno_L]

Thank you Will. Great tip for achieving perfect eyeballs

[@ComfortablyNum6]

Damn you, Will. You've cost me money again! 🤣🤣

[@raz562]

Recently got some AK 3rd Generation Acrylic, and their 3GA cleaner. And I can’t help but notice how well your description of 409, fits AK’s 3GA Cleaner. Could you perhaps get a bottle of AK’s 3GA Cleaner and compare? Either way, you won’t be disappointed in its cleaning ability, both for brushes and airbrush! Much Love.

[@Flingwing24]

Late as ever😂 Thanks Will. Getting into weathering and higher level finishes so have some basic colours inbound. I generally use lacquer or Vallejo for brush painting (the pre thinned stuff brushes really nicely). Their thinners may well work with this stuff. It works well for pre clean.

[@davidbiddlecombe8602]

I’ve been waiting for this one and it was worth waiting for!

[@StudioLaMagica]

Cool. Sunday morning (in Germany), coffee and a new episode from WP. 😀

[@christiaanrobertson8887]

Love your work Will, very informative. Are you able to explain how you get such a great and realistic looking exhaust stain?

[@barpfoto]

thank you! i'm working on an opr tutorial with this project so i can cover it there. stay tuned.

[@christiaanrobertson8887]

That would be awesome, very much looking forward to it!

[@fookitrc74]

Ive been using Fw inks for years now doing 1/4 scale sculpts, they are also great for scle modelling...

[@jimbucci3474]

Great tutorial Will ! I have started using commercial strength 409 to clean and thin Vallejo paints but found out that it doesn't work well with Tamiya acrylics

[@theragingdolphinsmaniac4696]

I have experimented with washes using their inks too. I suspect the base might be Liquitex airbrush medium, because it behaves similarly when I mix it with Vallejo airbrush paints.

[@gartsherriejunction4643]

Thanks Will for giving us another "quiver to our arrow" and showing us the versatility of Liquitex Inks combined with X20A Tamiya Thinner. Unfortunately, despite your eureka moment, 409A isn't something I am familiar with but will look out for ammonium chloride ingredients in other cleaning products, and with a bit of luck all will be well. Many thanks, Mike

[@jean-francoistremblay143]

For Any one looking for a replacement for 409. I personaly use Liquitex pen cleaner. It remove dry ink very quickly and is "relatively gentle" on acrylic paint. Of course going too hard/too wet will damage unprotected acrylic, but its very effective and a small quantity can go a long way.

[@amcastro8599]

What color is the dust effect?

[@barpfoto]

it's a mix of burnt umber and white.

[@richardperry21]

Don't know how to say this but that model looks better than our friend D. Hanson"s actual a/c after extensive restoration, at least $1,000,000.00 GREAT JOB

[@brianc1701]

Great tutorial, the results speak for themselves. Thanks for sharing. What colors of the brown ink are you using, and are they the transparent type?

[@robson668]

I stepped away from self made Acrylic washes. Now i only use Abteilung 502 mixed with AK odorless thinner and Abteilung fast dry thinner.

[@alvaroartaviabenavides5014]

thanks! That’s what I needed!

[@digbysirchickentf2315]

You could try a box of flies with silver painted feet for post-chipping.

[@NazidKimmie]

409? So, maybe spray 'n Wipe in Australia?

[@jandersuf1]

Hooking a brother up! Thanks Will.

[@ivanwomack]

Hi Will. Another great video adding more weapons to the weathering arsenal. Whats not to like. Ive got some Windsor and Newton inks and had a little play with them today, mixed with X20A on a paint mule. Mule was painted in various areas with MRP and Tamiya thinned with MLT. (along time ago so well cured) In both cases the ink/X20A mix tore straight into the surface paint and melted it. Am I missing something here..!! HELP!!!!! As for 409.... I think this is made from unicorn tears and currently, in the UK, hens teeth are easier to obtain!!

[@barpfoto]

how are you applying it?

[@ivanwomack]

Hi. I used a size 1 round brush. Funny thing is when I tried this again today it behaved OK. Made the paint go a little soft, but it stayed in tact. I think either the brush or the mule may have been contaminated. I suspect the latter.. Now, in the absence of 409 I have been trying to clean up with X20A thinned with water to varying degrees, but not having much luck. Next thing I’m going to try Is decal solutions...... wish me luck!

[@TheLaughingBrexiteer]

where to get an equivalent of 409 in the UK please??

[@kudukilla]

Was having trouble trouble editing my other comment, but the propyl alcohol in X20A is NOT IPA, it’s straight chain propyl alcohol.

[@eddiegremlin]

Is WD40 Similar?

[@barpfoto]

not even close. wd-40 is a blend of light oil and kerosene as far as anybody knows. it's a petroleum product.

[@eddiegremlin]

@@barpfoto all received and understood…

[@kylehood1657]

It hasn't officially been discontinued, but Formula 409 seems to otherwise be unobtainium at the moment.

[@jimbe01]

Total cult evangelicalist? Hmmm….Do you drive a Tesla?😳 That P40 is realllly looking good. I especially like the exhaust staining and cordite stains from the empty cartridge slots on the lower wing.👍 Quest Would you consider adding some metallic chips on the engine panel edges/dzus fasteners? (Higher maintenance access/work areas?)