Battery Voltage / Regulator/Rectifier & Stator Test

Diagnosing charging issue on a Honda VFR 800, we illustrate how to check voltage and run tests on your battery, the motorcycle voltage regulator and the motorcycle stator or alternator. I have an updated companion video to this one!
• Motorcycle Stator Volt...
Need a Multimeter to test your own bike? Here is where I got mine!
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Check out WHY Your Motorcycle Battery is DEAD!
• Why your Motorcycle Ba...
Need to replace your voltage regulator/rectifier check out replacements here...
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Part II Covering Stator Replacement and Installation can be found here • Honda VFR Stator Repla...
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[@RodRidesWrenches]

Need a Multimeter to test your own bike? Here is where I got mine! bikersrun.com/products/lcd-digital-multimeter-ammeter-voltmeter-ac-dc-750-1000v-digital-mini-handheld-multimeter-leads-ohm-tester-meter-with-probe

[@alibenam2766]

Not only for the good lighting, camera, etc. but for the excellent pace and clear instructions: you ROCK sir. Thanks much.

[@RodRidesWrenches]

Thank you kindly!

[@JasonShinks]

Had same problem with my viffer last night. This video explains very clearly the process I need to run today. Thank you 👍

[@RodRidesWrenches]

Great to hear it helped you!

[@obithunter]

Hi, your video was super helpful for me troubleshooting the stator on my motorcycle. Really appreciate the 2 views of the leads and the meter there. Especially the settings used on the meter. Thank You :)

[@RodRidesWrenches]

Glad to help! Thanks for Liking & Subscribing!

[@daveholmes7160]

What a brilliant video. Simple to the point and expertly explained. Nice editing to show what your doing. You need more subs. Keep it up buddy. Liked and subscribed from 🇬🇧

[@RodRidesWrenches]

Thanks for the sub! You may find this one better explains how the rectifier works overall. kzbin.info/www/bejne/gaHQp4ispbd2e68

[@MrDraftkid]

Best video I've seen so far about this, was looking up this issue on my seadoo and this covered how I need to test.

[@japfourme381]

Brilliant video mate, clear and concise. Thank you!!

[@RodRidesWrenches]

Awesome, Thanks for Liking & Subscribing!

[@Evansweat]

Absolutely exceptional video. Well done. I learned a ton

[@peteroneill2633]

That’s is the greatest boat I have ever seen, please send all details, I want one. Many thanks for your efforts. Great work.

[@riftline]

Perfect guide. Easy to follow and understand. Thank you! Got a VFR800 aswell with electrical issues..

[@larrytyler8601]

I was so confused until I watched your video. Thanks so much

[@RodRidesWrenches]

Thanks Larry I have another that goes into a detailed explanation on how your RR works here; kzbin.info/www/bejne/gaHQp4ispbd2e68

[@otisagain6225]

Great videos, I watched part one and two, I already knew how to change the stator, but the details on testing the why and hot ton prove it ture, it's really amazingly detailed and help!

[@RodRidesWrenches]

Thank you Otis for the feedback & Views! If you're interested in know more about how these systems work, check out kzbin.info/www/bejne/gaHQp4ispbd2e68 and the rest of the channel is full of more useful stuff. Ride Safe!

[@stevensapyak7971]

2.7.22. The test on the Stator that you performed is a static test, in order to be more definitive, you should perform a dynamic test, as when the engine is running, and checking the AC output from the Stator …… all three phases. On my Honda Gold wing GL 1200, I had around 70 VAC @ 3k rpm between phases with a new Stator. Generally you will find that the phase windings start shorting together internally, thus the AC voltage falls off between phases.

[@lynskyrd]

if the stator fails the ground fault test- there is NO NEED to go any further. I doesn't matter what the AC output is - the stator is dumping voltage to ground- the stator is bad. Now, if the was no ground fault- then sure, do an AC output test; absolutely.

[@neoalexander7534]

thank you very much, your explanation is very clear and easy for a noob like me to understand, bless you buddy

[@RodRidesWrenches]

Glad it helped

[@salamadel6922]

You are the master in diagnosis,, All love to you ❤❤❤

[@RodRidesWrenches]

Thank you and I hope you have subscribed and checked out the channel for more motorcycle stuff! kzbin.info

[@danielyeo6777]

Rod Rides & Wrenches You are a Saint thanks for the helpful information and greetings from a Wet UK

[@RodRidesWrenches]

Glad to be of help! Hope you subscribed I have a masterpiece video coming Saturday the 29th!

[@norwichscott]

This video helped alot. The stator on my 1985 Vmax was grounding out. I only put it on a year and a half ago. It was £45 Chinese 😂 I won't do that again. I swapped it for a good secondhand OEM one.

[@98tadriver]

Great video 👍 I had some issues with my bike battery going dead. I just did your diagnostic and sure enough, it's the stator

[@RodRidesWrenches]

Great to hear it helped you!

[@iVisionX01]

Excellent video! Helped me service my 5th gen.

[@phesantscall]

The Best explaination i have seen and heard, thank you.

[@RodRidesWrenches]

Thanks for the kind feedback. I made an update to this one recently that goes into more details on the RR and Stator please let me know what you think kzbin.info/www/bejne/gaHQp4ispbd2e68

[@timothymidkiff2894]

Thanks, this will help me out with figuring out my shadow 1100 issue.

[@RodRidesWrenches]

Great to hear & thanks for the view! Here is an updated video on the topic, I hope you will check out the channel! kzbin.info/www/bejne/gaHQp4ispbd2e68

[@WilTK4]

thank you so much! this is gonna save me some good cash, as where i live the Kymco official company goes on business every few years, then withdraws and older 2004-2009 models are complicated to have spares my '08 People 250 def. got the stator broken

[@rodneywoods9537]

wonderful video ,that's all you need to know to check stator and regulator

[@RodRidesWrenches]

Thanks for the feedback & View!

[@heidhouarbi]

as a person who likes electronics & machines. I think it's a good idea to look for a regulator with large current output specifications, because in essence the regulator will still limit the maximum output voltage. but does not limit the outgoing current. Enlarging the charging coil is a fast way. Even better, add a MOSFET type regulator.😊

[@HomeBrewCoffeeRecipes]

Very well done video. THANK YOU SIR

[@LeonardoAriasMarquez]

wow I suscribed, you explain everything really good, my Daytona 675 doesnt charge the battery, I bought a new battery and she eat it, so couldn't be the battery, today I boudh the multimeter and tomorrow will test the stator and the Regulator, thank you so much for the vid.

[@RodRidesWrenches]

Hello Leonardo, if your battery is getting damaged it is most likely the Voltage Regulator & Rectifier. I also have this updated video that shows some additional tests you can do kzbin.info/www/bejne/gaHQp4ispbd2e68 Thanks for the feedback & the views and good luck!

[@gjallen44]

GREAT video! very helpful.

[@RodRidesWrenches]

Thanks Scuba Steve!

[@avinash.samuel1992]

Beautifully done! ❤🔥

[@RodRidesWrenches]

Thanks Avinash there is an updated video that explains how these systems work you can find here kzbin.info/www/bejne/gaHQp4ispbd2e68

[@OoOBubblesOooO]

Really grateful for this video....reeeeally appreciated the clear views on the multimeter settings....but I'm going around in CIRCLES and if you (or anyone here) can help, I'd really appreciate it. Forums and FB groups just kept yelling 'MOSFET' at me...and...ahh.... I have a 5th gen…1998. My bike kept not starting and -instead- clunking out and resetting the dash. But, with a jump lead, it would start up fine and be fine until I turned the bike off. It never shut off whilst riding, just SOMETIMES wouldn't start. I know it sucks to go second hand (trying to keep rolling until finances settle after job change) but I got a battery, then a second hand reg/rec…which didn’t solve issue...then another battery. To be honest, the 'new' reg/rec (and the old one) test fine on the diode test...and I think it was the burnt connector, not the reg/rec. But, the clunking and dead battery kept happening. So I got a secondhand stator which I fitted today…it tested fine with ’on the bench’ multimeter tests (resistance at 0.1 ohms between phases). But -now it's on the bike- my multimeter blips at .03 and then trickles down to 0.0 (on all phases). I'm thinking it's the multimeter being cheap. But…test ride with a voltage meter running: Started with battery at 12.8 With lights on the average reading was 12.2 under 5000 Never went higher than 12.4 even at 5000. 30 minute ride, mostly around town…little 5000rpm blip between junctions Lights off was around 13v under 5000. Got home and battery is reading 12.4. So….still screwed? If I was riding a little with a bad stator...this may have ruined the new battery? I think I'll get a new battery and see how that goes. And then...a stator...they aren't made any more and I can only see possibly terrible rip offs on eBay for about £60-£80...are these fine?

[@RodRidesWrenches]

Hi Mac, Sounds like you've just about had enough stator and battery problems. I would not recommend using used parts unless you know they are off a working bike. The OEM stator is no longer available but I have heard of VFR owners upgrading to the 6th Generation Stator & RR but I have not confirmed this myself. My 2000 VFR800 has the same stator connector as my 6th Gen but I didn't change that one as it is still working well, see video kzbin.info/www/bejne/gaHQp4ispbd2e68 You can get good stator and rectifiers from a new company I have been working with for the past year and really good pricing & free shipping. They work with the manufacturer overseas. Here is a link to a new stator rebrand.ly/l243bgb Here is a link to both a brand new stator and RR in one kit rebrand.ly/dwldjbi The other thing I would look at is parasitic draw. Measure your open circuit voltage with the battery installed on your bike and record VDC. Disconnect the ground cable from your bike and check again, did it change more than 1 tenth of a volt? Look for accessories to remove from power, sometimes things like heated grips or aftermarket lights can break down and draw power even when turned off. You said you replaced the battery with a new one. Running your battery completely flat is detrimental to it for sure but what you described does not sound right. The 5th Gen VFR puts out very low current at idle or low RPM, avoid getting stuck in traffic leaving your engine run, learned that the hard way... Make sure when you buy a battery you get one with a separate acid fill pack that you have to load into the battery. This way you know you're not getting a half sulfated battery that has been sitting on a shelf for a year. Better yet get a lithium ion one, pricy but worth it is you bike sits for extended periods. Good Luck and let me know how it goes!

[@queenslander954]

Cheers mate , very helpful 👌

[@MrJvind]

Thank you 🙏🏼✨ You have just helped me confirm that my regulator are dead! Tak you for a great video.

[@brendone111]

love your videos, I think I have the same problem on my VFR and I'm having a hard time finding a replacement stator, can you recommend any good sources for this part?

[@RodRidesWrenches]

Thanks for the view! you did not mention what year your VFR was so check here bikersrun.com/search?q=VFR+Stator&options%5Bprefix%5D=last

[@user-nn4wj8gk9s]

Best video ever .many thanks.

[@RodRidesWrenches]

Thanks for the feedback & View! You can find more information about how these systems work here kzbin.info/www/bejne/gaHQp4ispbd2e68

[@aurelianzafiu4155]

Thank you very much!!!!

[@db8216]

Great video! Still having a voltage to the battery issue myself. ( Only 12.5 to 12.8 volts at 5,000 rpm but does 13.5 at idle) Battery tests good. Stator tests good, no short to ground and 22 volts at idle & 60 volts at 5,000 rpm. Lastly did the rectifier test, flow ony goes one way, so that's good but my diode readings are lower than yours (0.707 on both sides) You think my rectifier could be the issue and needs replaced? I noticed the headlights starting to surge dim then bright when cruising around 4,500 rpm. Thanks!

[@RodRidesWrenches]

Regulator Rectifier is on its way out. Change it before it leaves you stranded. It's happened to me a few times and it's no fun. 😶

[@db8216]

@@RodRidesWrenches Thanks! I'll get a new unit on the way. Yeah, being stranded on a bike sucks. Now I just need to get a bike lift, got three other bikes to work on.

[@dandenyo3847]

The best explanation so far. Clear and precise 😊😊 The two screens esp the one on the multimeter 👍 Subscribed from Kenya 🇰🇪

[@RodRidesWrenches]

Thanks for taking the time to view & comment!

[@fukluk88]

I see why, like me, you're a mechanic and not a doctor. You're hands shake as bad as mine. I'm going on 58 but, they've always shook like that and it hasn't gotten worse over the years. Just about the same and my dad has the same. It hasn't gotten much worse at 80 so don't worry, some of us are just wound up a little tighter than others, yeah? Oh, and by the way, great tutorial. I learned all I need to know. Thank you.

[@RodRidesWrenches]

Thanks for the feedback & view!

[@bossfmx828]

Great job sir appreciated very i formative

[@RodRidesWrenches]

Thanks for the view & feedback, you may also like kzbin.info/www/bejne/gaHQp4ispbd2e68

[@Great_XicoZe]

Great video! Hope you can help on this issue: A few days ago, while riding my SYM VS 125, a lot of smoke started coming out of the front of the bike and the engine started to fail. I turned off the ignition and cut the battery current. At home I took it apart to see what was going on and the rectifier was visibly burnt. I took the bike to a workshop where they changed the rectifier and the battery, but they didn't solve the problem. The new rectifier continues to heat up a lot and too fast, as if something is short circuiting. As they couldn't solve the problem and it still cost me a few €€, I picked up the motorcycle with the fault. Tests i have done: - the battery is new and has 13.1V before the starter - with the three yellow wires from the stator connected to the rectifier, the bike works fine at low revs, fails at medium and the rectifier heats up uncontrollably; with these wires disconnected from the rectifier, the bike works well at any speed, but as we know, the battery is not charged - at idle the 3 yellow wires measure about 40V from stator - the resistant test on stator show equal values on three wires; no ground conductivity; no open circuit on each coil - apparently all the masses are well connected. Any idea what it could be causing this recurrent failure of the rectifier? Note: traditional G6Y carburetor engine with electronic rectifier and CDI, year 2010.

[@RodRidesWrenches]

Hello Francisco, based on what you have done I would say you have a faulty new regulator rectifier. Test the RR transistor gates as shown in the video, I believe if you swap the RR part with a known good one, this will fix your problem. Sometimes you get a bad part, even if its new. Secondly confirm all ground cables are good, replacing them is also inexpensive and will confirm you do not have a ground resistance issue. - Good Luck!

[@nanoglz]

Great video! My bike cranks but doesn't start when the engine is warm but will start right up when its cold or I have let it cool down for 30 mins. Could it be the regulator? It has a new stator and a fairly new battery

[@RodRidesWrenches]

Hello Edwin, The condition you described is most likely faulty ignition coils. The RR would not prevent your bike from starting. When bad coils heat up they are unable to generate high voltage. Check the ignition (spark) at the spark plugs when the bike is hot, trace the lead and change the coil(s) out with a new one to find the culprit. This being said, I would just change all the coils and wire leads since any that are good now will probably fail soon. - Good Luck!

[@Motogreets]

I just have the same problem. I hope thuis video will help me put. I replaced the regulator and that did not help. So I'm gonna get a new stator

[@kawasakichopshop2759]

Thanks for vid...I have an 81 kawasaki kz 440...my issue seems to be weak spark..with a 2 wire stator I have continuity of about 3 ohms with stator removed from the bike..my research shows this is about normal do you agree? Would you suggest reinstalling the stator to the bike and checking each phase against the bikes ground?

[@RodRidesWrenches]

How do the coils in the stator look? Are they burnt? Is there continuity from the leads to the pole frame? No need to put it back in the bike to test that, the second video in this series may help kzbin.info/www/bejne/gaHQp4ispbd2e68 How is the ground strap from the engine to the battery, any green or black oxidation? A bad ground will weaken the spark. - Good Luck!

[@kawasakichopshop2759]

@@RodRidesWrenches the coil condition doesn't look bad to me but that could mean nothing...the bike is a new build so condition of wires and contacts are all very clean...the problem is I'm fouling plugs as if weak spark..carbs are new and jetting should be good...I'm going put in line spark checker and continue troubleshooting...I do have an nos stator coming...thanks for reply

[@toesdowntoesdown]

Helpful 👍

[@RodRidesWrenches]

Thanks for the feedback & view! There is an updated video here that goes into more detail on the inner workings of the regulator rectifier kzbin.info/www/bejne/gaHQp4ispbd2e68

[@xIIxpetey454xIIx]

Hey man awesome video, I did the test on both the stater and the rectifier/ regulator and both passed. When I rev the bike up the voltage does not increase which leads me to believe that it is the stator but it passed the test. Any idea what it could be or what I should check next? 2003 Honda Shadow 600

[@RodRidesWrenches]

What is the voltage you are getting at idle, what is the battery voltage at 5000RPM and what is the voltage you get at 5000RPM with the high beam on? How old is the battery you are using in your bike? Check the AC output on the stator with the bike running as I described in this video kzbin.info/www/bejne/gaHQp4ispbd2e68 The stator may not be grounding but the coil packs weak. Also described in this video is a transistor continuity test for the RR. Confirm your ground cables from the battery to the engine are not corroded and that all your connector pins are aligned properly and making contact with each other properly.

[@xIIxpetey454xIIx]

@@RodRidesWrenches Thanks so much for the reply! I watched the additional video and it was very informative. The battery is only 2 years old. The bike’s voltage is around 12.3v with the high beam on at 5000 rpm. No change from idle aside from it decreasing slowly. I tested the stator AC output while the bike was running and got zero across all 3 phases. The rectifier passed the tests however there is a parasitic draw that only goes away when I unplug the rectifier connection to the rest of the bike ( not in between the stator and the rectifier). I am leading towards replacing both the stator and the reg/rect but do you think there may be additional problems? I checked the ground at the battery and on the block, both have been cleaned up but still no change. Any other things I should check or do? Thank you so much for the help in advance!!

[@RodRidesWrenches]

​@@xIIxpetey454xIIxUnplug the stator from your regulator rectifier, does the parasitic draw remain? If yes then there is a diode issue in the regulator. If not then you now know it is the stator that has a ground fault in it. For whatever reason your multimeter did not pick this up on the continuity test. Make sure when doing the continuity test you have a clean ground to the engine case. A faulty stator can drain down a battery with the ignition off. - Good Luck!

[@Guitardiv2]

Very clear and understandable, however, I can not find part 2

[@RodRidesWrenches]

Here is the Stator Replacement. kzbin.info/www/bejne/bmOUeI2Kh9aAaNE Good Luck!

[@WILLY52368]

I'm a visual kinda guy and when I try to read and follow along even though there's some pictures I'm still lost. Plus I heard the Clymer Manuals are junk, any suggestions for my XR650L? Also great video I'm able to follow along got hung up on when it came to the multimeter because my symbols are faded but eventually went with the numbers and matched it up now at least I improved in that area. I think if wasn't for youtube I would be lost

[@RodRidesWrenches]

Thanks for the view, you'll find many such videos on the channel and more in the pipeline. The only manual worth owning IMO is the factory manual, yes they are more $ but are worth it. 👍

[@WILLY52368]

@@RodRidesWrenches Yep will look into it

[@user-vi8vx1yz5q]

buddy the best

[@HawkeXXVII]

This was the same with mine, burnt stator. Now I know how to check it. Really helpful video~! BTW what's the cause of these burned-out stators?

[@RodRidesWrenches]

The cause is wear, nothing lasts forever, especially high voltage generators. If you have issues with repeated problems check out this follow up video I put out today, it runs through why your stator may be continually failing,. kzbin.info/www/bejne/gaHQp4ispbd2e68

[@leginyela]

Confused. The schematic drawing of the stator shows the coils form a circuit ( Each coil phase is fixed to earth). So would a continuity check where one meter probe contacts the coil and the other probe the earth always return continuity?

[@RodRidesWrenches]

Hello Legin the coils are insulated from the poles when working properly. When the coils breakdown they ground to the poles which are in contact with the rest of the bike. The stator leads do not ground when working properly. kzbin.info/www/bejne/gaHQp4ispbd2e68

[@skyaseman5561]

Hi dear. Thanks for uploading this useful video. I've got an issue with my suzuki gs1000 . I realised my bike feul niddel move high when I increase engine rpm Can u plz help me to find solution ???? .

[@RodRidesWrenches]

Please clarify what you mean by Feul Niddel? Fuel Needle in the carb?

[@slick2599]

If my voltage is dropping from 14plus volts down to 12.5’s while the bike is idling it’s safe to say the stator is the issue, right? I did the 5000 rpm RR test and it came out fine , voltage tops off at 14.28v at 5000rpms. Battery is also fully charged

[@RodRidesWrenches]

If the continuity test did not go to ground then it could just be your battery. What is the open circuit reading on it? Bike turned off, fully charged, how many volts? It should be around 13V (2.2 X 6). The stator can fail in sections basically as one phase (section of coils) burns out, then the second. By the time two sections have burned the stator fails. At 14+ volts it does not sound like the stator. Does your voltage drop while the bike is running at idle, working its way down to 10-11 volts? kzbin.info/www/bejne/mIbFamp9o6l_hbc

[@RodRidesWrenches]

12.5V is just fine for idle! As long as you do not go below 12V, if so then replace the battery. The fact that your voltage goes up to 14V means your stator and regulator look good.

[@traviswatson777]

2002 vstar 1100..12.5v battery at full charge. Started the bike and it climbed to about 13.6v on rev up. I did a draw test on the battery and came in at 0.06 which fell well within vstar specs, but battery dies within a couple days. New stator, and no spikes in voltage from bad regulator, it seems to be doing its job. Any ideas? Keep going through batteries yearly at least

[@RodRidesWrenches]

Your battery is sulfated. Fully charged your battery should be 13-13.3 VDC. Each cell should be 2.2VDC you have 6 cells in a 12 volt battery. you can try using a battery charger that pulses like this one bikersrun.com/products/motopower-mp00205a-12v-800ma-automatic-smart-car-motorcycle-battery-charger-maintainer?_pos=1&_sid=83f767274&_ss=r or replace the battery. You should still get that charger since it will maintain your battery and keep it from sulfating. Regular chargers don't do that. The other problem may be a parasitic draw. disconnect the battery from the bike and leave it sit for a few days, hook it back up and see if it works. If it does then you have a draw somewhere. Obvious places to look are any aftermarket accessors; heated grips, lights anything running off the battery. Disconnect them with a voltmeter on the battery and you should see a difference when you found the one that is drawing current. Or just try disconnecting them them one at a time until you find it. - Thanks for the question & good luck!

[@airiharuki4432]

I could see my battery spiking at 16v while I was riding! Do you think it’s ok? I read that if it spikes it’s the regulator.

[@RodRidesWrenches]

Hello Airi, 16V is too much, maximum Honda Service Manual specifies for a depleted battery would be 15.5V Is your voltmeter accurate? If yes then it is your voltage regulator/rectifier as the issue. Too much voltage will not only burn your battery out, it heats your wiring harness and will lead to premature failure or worse, fire. Good Luck!

[@sly9889]

I have had my rectifier/stator rewired. To do the continuity test for the stator it would always be on those 3 wires correct? I have a 2000 vfr800

[@RodRidesWrenches]

The Stator is the same on the 5th gen so yes those three wires. Remember there is no polarity on the stator because it is producing alternating current on the three wires or three phases. It does not matter which wire goes where on the stator side, that's why they are all yellow in color.

[@RodRidesWrenches]

Thanks for liking and subscribing!

[@OFFICIALPGBEATS]

Hey sir I have one with a brown wire I’m trying to put on my Honda rc51. Any idea of what it could connect to or what it’s for

[@RodRidesWrenches]

The brown wire on the harness is not required. It is for an accessory. Ignore and carry on...

[@wesleykerrigan7198]

Hello, I have a 4 wire rectifier I've tested the black prob to the negative side and then the red prob to the positive side I got 0 readings . The reversed probs also got 0 readings do you think my rectifier is faulty ? Thanks.

[@RodRidesWrenches]

Hi Westley the other wires are typically green or brown or stripped variation. These are not the live wires from the RR just the black and red ones. Yes it sounds like the RR is bad. I have another video that may better explain.

[@RodRidesWrenches]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/gaHQp4ispbd2e68 Good luck!

[@Novanova501]

Would be a bad earth or something as stator is shiney and new but not OEM to?

[@RodRidesWrenches]

Yes check the grounds, the cable from the battery to the engine can get full of corrosion. The more I think about it, the more I go back to the magnetic rotor. I have head but not seen these needing to be replaced. In some years Honda had a bad batch!

[@Chriss0101]

Hello I know this is a old video , but my bike has a new battery and at 5000 idle it jumps from 12.8V (new battery) to 13.4V . With highbeamd on it drops to 12.4 but goes up to 12.8V at 5000idle . Would it be the stator?

[@RodRidesWrenches]

Sounds like a weak stator, here is how to test. kzbin.info/www/bejne/gaHQp4ispbd2e68si=ipdeUP15o3p41OvJ

[@Motogreets]

Do I have to remove the oil in the bike before I get the stator out?

[@RodRidesWrenches]

No here is how kzbin.info/www/bejne/bmOUeI2Kh9aAaNE

[@MrAlkanet-nt9ic]

what is the chance that any newer bike overcharges life-o4 battery? over 15v is bad... btw how old is that stator?

[@RodRidesWrenches]

Voltage at the battery while the bike is running is controlled by the Regulator Rectifier. The RR is metering the state of charge of the battery (low voltage battery higher output from stator to the battery and vise versa) as well as the load the bike is demanding from your electrical system (high beam, heated grips). Li batteries have battery management systems built into them to prevent overcharging because overcharging a Lithium battery results in a "Thermal Event" than you can't stop by spraying water on it. This being said, 15V is too high for a Li in my opinion and you should check with the Li battery manufacturer for their specification for your model of battery. If I were you, I would, fully charge my Li battery with a proper low amp charger and check it again in the bike, if the condition of 15V remains, replace my Regulator Rectifier and or battery to an AGM one, to confirm the issue is with the Li battery and not the bike. BTW if you cannot fully charge the Li battery with a 1-2amp charger, your battery is the issue. Also the charger should be old style analogue with a meter to do this test, just make sure it is set to no higher than a 2 amp charge. - Good Luck!

[@MrAlkanet-nt9ic]

@@RodRidesWrenches well, i am sorry but that was so not my question, something was misunderstood... not all batteries have BSM, and i was just wondering what is the chance that my bike(or any other bike for that matter -hypothetically) charges with 15+V... in 2 days i will have voltmeter to measure it; up to 15V is ok according to manufacturer of LIFEO2 battery that i installed yesterday... bike is 4 years old and has bluetooth connection and stuff so i imagine it uses an ok regulator but who knows... electricity is not my forte

[@Halodan10Gaming]

So I tested the wire that comes of my stator and it was giving me three very different values. I am assuming I need to change out the stator now. :)

[@RodRidesWrenches]

What did you test? Continuity? AC voltage? Resistance? This may help kzbin.info/www/bejne/gaHQp4ispbd2e68

[@Halodan10Gaming]

@@RodRidesWrenches I tested the voltage AC. I got reading like .78 .28 and .64

[@lubosjankuj1643]

Hi,please,i have issue with Honda x8r 50cc.2sec go voltage 12,34,And next 1sec go to 7,6 And again.....i check voltage in batery pole.

[@Queloqueloco]

My 2017 yz450f regulator rectifier has 2 wires coming out of it a red and black one, no matter what ohm setting i put the multimeter on it shows “0L “ but on the other wires that it plugs into “the stator connnection it shows a reading on the “20 ohm” setting. does that means that could be the cause of my NO SPARK situation , keep in mind this bike doesnt have a battery

[@RodRidesWrenches]

Your bike uses an ignition system where an electric charge is stored in a capacitor then discharged through firing the spark plug. CDI ignition boxes are the weakest link in these ignitions. Check your two wires out of your stator by measuring AC voltage. If you have voltage your stator is not the issue. Get a manual for your bike, it will tell you how and what you can check next My money is on your ignition capacitor but this is based on the fact it is a dirt bike and these are a common failure. Obviously you've checked all the leads to your coil and being a 2017 it should have an prom chip that clips into the harness under the seat or by the forks (I don't know about Yamaha's placement, check the owners manual) if this chip is damaged or not installed properly you have no ignition. Good Luck!

[@Mrdubomb]

Is it normal for the stator wire plug to be hot to the touch?

[@RodRidesWrenches]

WARM yes HOT no, bad connectors, corroded wires (battery cables especially, see any green corrosion?) faulty grounds, failing diodes... More here kzbin.info/www/bejne/gaHQp4ispbd2e68

[@anthonyburrage6603]

Great video. I'm on stator 3 in 1 year. :(

[@RodRidesWrenches]

Sorry to hear that, have you changed the regulator?

[@anthonyburrage6603]

@@RodRidesWrenches new battery, genuine Honda rectifier and now I have a genuine Honda stator. I have seen a post about the fly wheel may need upgrading and sometimes that does the trick. At the moment I have a touring bike which doesn't tour. I will be checking out the issues and hopefully I can sort it out before I'm 200 miles away from home the next time. Thank you for the video. I will learn to spot these issues.

[@RodRidesWrenches]

@@anthonyburrage6603 The magnetic rotor is all that is left to change by the sound of it. I have heard but never seen these needing to be replaced. Let me know how it goes!

[@shahzadahmad5770]

Dear Sir I have changed many time a rr on my 50cc moped . But is burning the head lamp after 2/ 3 weeks working, I have changed regulator but regulator is producing 14.98 v dc is fine current or its too much. Kindly give me solution please.

[@RodRidesWrenches]

15V is too high. Check the ground strap to your battery & replace, remove the RR and clean the mount to the frame. There needs to be a solid connection between the RR and the frame so it can shunt voltage back to the engine. SEE VIDEO kzbin.info/www/bejne/gaHQp4ispbd2e68

[@firedawg1998]

My 2000 vfr let me down twice within walking distance from my house with bad regulators, 3 years apart... added a computer fan on the regulator and it never happened again.

[@DouglasJames27]

My 2007 Triumph Speed Triple has an issue trying to start. I thought it was the battery so I purchased a new one but that doesn't seem to be the problem. The issue: When trying to start the bike the starter will turn over for just a second or two and then nothing and the dash lights and headlight all go black. I tested the battery when off the bike and it says 12.95 volts but after installed and this issue arises and the dash goes black the battery, while still installed shows 1.25 volts or thereabouts, I don't remember exactly but the reading goes really low. Then I disconnect the battery and it reads just fine, 12.9 volts. When I reconnect the same sequence happens again...Headlight and dash will come on and when I push the starter button the starter will only turn over for a second or two then stop and the lights all go black. I pulled the alternator rectifier and tested the diodes and they all read fine, about .542 or so on all three and reversing polarity same results. Do you think if the regulator is bad it will cause this shutting off of system and then the low volt reading when the battery is still connected? Any input would be appreciated. Thank you

[@Novanova501]

I'm getting 003 reading on brand new stator only fitted with mosfet RR 2 wks ago. Would know why? Stator can't be bad I only got it new last wk but lost as bike not charge. Any ideas?

[@RodRidesWrenches]

Hi Lambo I would think it is the stator connection to the Regulator if I were speculating. Bent or broken blades. If the Wiring is good then could be a fault in the new components, sometimes new things are just bad but that is what warranty is for. Finally the only other item that comes to mind is the magnetic rotor. If, for whatever reason, it is unable to create a strong enough field around the new stator poles... I have a new video out Sunday that may further assist. Good Luck!

[@Novanova501]

@@RodRidesWrenches thanks for reply. I did more tests and foaund out that the brand new stator I got was a faulty one. Finally found my problem. I'm only learning about electrical stuff I'm more mechanical guy so took a while to find problem. Thanks Alot for help 👍👍

[@motorcyclemike1299]

What if it's an intermittent problem? Sometime my bike seems to misfire on occasion and sometimes it dies like running out of fuel the kicks back on. Once I was riding at night and the lights severly dimmed, the turn signals wouldn't blink and when I stopped at my destination and it wouldn't restart... I needed push started. I push started it and it was fine. I went home and it was fine, checked the battery and It was 13.2v. Started it and got 14.5ish volts. All this (dimming, dead battery, push starting and testing)happened within a 30 minute window. That's never happened again though. The only thing now that happens is that it intermittently dies for just a fraction of a second. Any ideas.

[@RodRidesWrenches]

Check/Replace your battery cables, both of them. You didn't mention how old your bike was, most bike should have their cables replaced if you have intermittent electrical, specially in a 20+ year old machine. How warm are the cables after a short ride? Likely a loose connection is causing your grief or excessive resistance, caused by internal corrosion, see any green corrosion on your copper wires? Good Luck! kzbin.info/www/bejne/gaHQp4ispbd2e68

[@09ThunderOne]

I checked everything and everything seems fine however with the bike running, only 12.5 volts. Not sure the problem.

[@RodRidesWrenches]

You have a failed stator most likely measure ac output off the stator as shown here kzbin.info/www/bejne/gaHQp4ispbd2e68

[@Daot888]

Hi what suppose to be the reading of the stator is healthy

[@RodRidesWrenches]

A healthy Stator will not have any conductivity to the rest of the bike, it doesn't ground out from the leads. If you want to measure the AC Voltage from the stator check out this video kzbin.info/www/bejne/gaHQp4ispbd2e68

[@sirginja8579]

Zx6r 2006 ninja636 Went for a ride in the morning packed bike for 30min went back to start the bike, the cluster comes on but the bike will just buzz and not start as if the battery is dead, charged the battery last nite it reads 13v on the multimeter, and when I try to start the bike I'm hearing a buzzing noise coming from the starter relay I think. The problem started when i cold start the bike, the clusters will flicker when try to start the bike, and It will take longer normal to start. What could the problem

[@RodRidesWrenches]

Lots of things can be the problem... What is the battery voltage after you try and start it? The voltage coming off the charger is artificial due to surface charge on it. The most common issue is the battery is bad. The starter relay can be bypassed to check it or just get a replacement and try it, they are not expensive. The other common issue is the right handlebar kill switch. These switches get gummed up with dirt and the circuit is not strong enough to start the bike. Finally there are your battery cables. Cables corrode over time and if they are green with corrosion, frayed or loose on the other end (not the battery I assume you tighten that properly), you need to address or replace the cables. Here are two videos that you may like, one with a hard to start Ninja 600 kzbin.info/www/bejne/jWGwhY2YqbKahdksi=hSXqS227xUin5aNt The other discusses issues around the charging system and shows additional ways to test your charging system. kzbin.info/www/bejne/gaHQp4ispbd2e68si=ZIvJuzMQBserzW2w Good Luck!

[@sirginja8579]

Thanks for the Info @RodRidesWrenches, will definitely try out and do the other checks ✔️ hopefully I manage to trace the problem..

[@user-by5ud2hf1p]

My motorcycle doesn’t start at all when I try to turn it on. It has a new battery, starter, and starter selenoid. It turns over but the voltage drops whenever I try to turn it on. Can someone help

[@RodRidesWrenches]

It sounds like you have a MAJOR short in your wiring. Something is grounding hard. If there are ANY accessories on the bike (heated grips, charge ports, accessory lights) disconnect them these are the most common suspects. Get a voltmeter and measure voltage drain with the ignition on, and off, you'll know you found the problem when you see the voltage drain slowly after disconnecting the offending part. After that you need to chase your wiring from the engine handlebar kill switch which again is a common problem for shorts and failures kzbin.info/www/bejne/jWGwhY2YqbKahdksi=DnYLDlUxGccKgXtB&t=560 to the ignition switch, to the kick stand switch, and all the other things like clutch switch and tip sensor if equipped. You did not mention what bike you have so Good Luck on the short fault hunt!

[@user-by5ud2hf1p]

Thanks for the reply, I’ll check it out

[@user-by5ud2hf1p]

I did what you told me and there is a short. The battery was slowly draining when I tested it with my multimeter. I just now need to find it

[@user-by5ud2hf1p]

It only drops to around 10 volts when starting shouldn’t that be enough to start it?

[@RodRidesWrenches]

@@user-by5ud2hf1p Yes it should

[@FREE_PUREBLOOD333]

In this case I have to say the diode test on the regulator rectifier was not correct. You only tested the power and ground through the reg rec. To do a diode test you connect to power on reg rec and to each yellow wire from regrec with the stator connection disconnected, then swap test leads over and do same again to each yellow from reg rec...then swap test lead to ground wire on regrec and each yellow again from reg rec. Swap over test leads and do same again. 😎👍

[@giovannimaraniello4073]

Hello, Nice video. I am searching for a good regulator rectifier upgrade. My bike it's an 04 and I have no problem in voltage reading. 14.3 at 5krpm 13.8 at ideal. What would you suggest me?

[@RodRidesWrenches]

If you have 14.5 v at 5000rpm your regulator is fine. If your voltage drops off at idle this is normal, the average lead acid motorcycle battery can't maintain voltage for extended period at idle. If your volts drop quickly at idle your battery could be weak needing replacement or your lights/bike is drawing heavy amperage. Most likely the former but if your bike's wiring harness could have corossion leading to more resistance. If you have a voltage issue start with a high quality battery. Lead acid batteries wear out and sulfate easily get a lithium best money i ever spent on a battery. See my battery video for more.

[@RodRidesWrenches]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/ronOomCmap6il9E

[@giovannimaraniello4073]

@@RodRidesWrenches thanks a lot for your reply. If I would like to change my regulator for a Mofset, is it better than the stock one?

[@RodRidesWrenches]

@@giovannimaraniello4073 mofset regulators build current and are basically one circuit, they run cooler and do not load the stator as much to create the equivalent voltage because of the current build up ability, my understanding. The normal diode regulator works fine. If your current regulator is burnt try the mofset, from my real job i know there is a shortage in control chipsets for them globally. If you can get one at a comparable price then give it a shot, it is better. I am personally okay with the diode type for the type of use I have on my bikes. Good Luck!

[@charlesstiles8904]

My bike runs but is not charging. When I test the charging wire from the stator the voltage is all over the place. Just touching the ground wire on the multimeter to the ground on the battery makes the meter go crazy. My starter is dragging, even with a new battery. Headlights are also Dim. Almost not even on.

[@RodRidesWrenches]

Hello Charles, did you perform the ground continuity test as demonstrated in this video on the stator? What was the result?

[@keko2112]

What year bike is this?

[@RodRidesWrenches]

2004

[@j.rothchild173]

Hey , I got 1260 on bottom and 550 on top!

[@RodRidesWrenches]

You got what?

[@j.rothchild173]

When i was checking it like you did, one male end read 1260 and the other 550..@@RodRidesWrenches

[@seanoghughes95]

I have 13.9 volts at 5k rpm but when I switch the headlights on it starts dropping rapidly. Stator is only a year old, does this sound like a regulator issue?

[@RodRidesWrenches]

No not the RR I would point a finger at the battery first. how old is it? If it is an AGM or wet cell your voltage should be over 14V at 5000RPM. If it is lithium like the one in the video then you are okay at sub 14V. What is the voltage on the battery without any load (bike off fully charged). If the voltage here is under 12.6 definitely needs replacement. If the battery checks out good then the fault would be back at the stator. Do a phase to ground test as shown in the video.

[@seanoghughes95]

@@RodRidesWrenches battery is just a few weeks old, but it let me down once already, hence why I was thinking reg/rec. 12.2 volts without any load. It's a nitro battery, not lithium, probably AGM or wet cell. I've already got a regulator ordered so I'll fit it and see what happens, will probably replace the battery with a more well known brand too. Thanks for the reply 👍

[@RodRidesWrenches]

@@seanoghughes95 A new fully charged battery should be 13.2VDC 2.2 Volts per cell X 6 Cells. Because of variance in meters and shelf age of the battery I was looking for 12.5-13VDC. Install the RR but you may have a battery that has sit on a shelf for awhile. If the battery is prefilled and sealed like an AGM or GEL then the chemical processes inside are already happening, regardless if it is hooked up to a bike. Here is how and why kzbin.info/www/bejne/ronOomCmap6il9E

[@dandenyo3847]

Kawasaki ex250 My battery is 12.75 v. At 500 rpm, its up to 13.24v. No continuity on stator coil. Bt the rectifier up terminals diodes is(. 308) lower terminals (. 303)

[@RodRidesWrenches]

Lead Acid battery? If so its sulfated and time for a new one.

[@dandenyo3847]

@@RodRidesWrenches It's a lead one barely 3 months old.

[@dandenyo3847]

@@RodRidesWrenches... So the rectifier is ok? Or I should worry!

[@RodRidesWrenches]

@@dandenyo3847 If the rectifier shuts off the reverse flow of current it is fine. The readings you took are close enough to the same. When testing the rectifier it is more important to have the reverse current flow stopped by the diodes than the readings on your multimeter. This may explain better kzbin.info/www/bejne/gaHQp4ispbd2e68si=qIGAIRpSBseMcbcj

[@RodRidesWrenches]

@@dandenyo3847 When you asked teh question I assumed you were having issues with your charging system, is the battery going dead while riding or sitting?

[@Young937phoenix]

When I give mine throttle my voltage drops to 9 volts but when I let off it goes up to almost 14 volts

[@RodRidesWrenches]

You're regulator rectifier is most likely gone if you're getting low RPM voltage but did you turn the headlight on high beam? The additional load is required to get the accuracy, especially at idle. Ground test the stator as described, if the poles are weak this could also be a factor kzbin.info/www/bejne/gaHQp4ispbd2e68

[@anthonytheiss1296]

Cables are wrong to test the rectifier,red on left negative on a right

[@albertpoon4356]

Good content but please kill the background music

[@foesfly3047]

I sensed subliminal visual and aural images, while watching this video. I believe those subconscious stimuli may be responsible for the increased understanding, I now have, with regard to motorcycle electrical charging systems 🤔