How to Test Voltage Regulator Rectifiers for Motorcycle, ATV, UTV, Snowmobile & Powersports Engines

[@mikeromo7871]

This was one of the videos I watched to figure out the charging problems on my 2000 Honda VFR Interceptor. Did the other tests and now that I know how a voltage regulator/rectifier really works, I was able to conduct the test and found one leg of the diodes not working correctly. Easy removal, ordered the part, and now we wait...Thank you for the clear, detailed, and concise advice. I'm not a mechanic by any means and electrical has always caused anxiety, but this video made it much easier and increased my confidence to undertake this. Thank You!

[@597jc]

4 years later and this is still the most helpful and easy to understand tutorial i have found to test these. Thank you for taking the time to put this together

[@paulwingerter4727]

Evan, I have owned quads and bikes for over 30 years and I always just fumbled around with trying to figure out what's wrong with electrical/starting issues. Sometimes I'd get lucky and fix the problem, but usually not. Watching your videos has not only given me the necessary knowledge and thus the confidence to diagnose electrical issues, but it's actually excited me to the point where I want to learn more about these systems. Thank you (and RM Stator) for taking the time to educate people like me...for free!! RM Stator has a life-long customer in me due to both the high quality informational videos as well as the extremely high quality and durable products you produce.

[@Rmstatorinc]

Thanks so much for this awesome feedback! Very happy to hear that this video and our products helped you out.

[@ThePandora1971]

Dude...what a stellar explanation. You cut straight to the chase ...eliminating the weather of the day, your wives menstrual cycle. You dumb it down just-right... Explaining the process well enough that it's understood by an amateur but also providing enough information for the student to ask relevant/educated questions. In all my years of using KZbin this is the first time I've taken the effort to post a comment. Thank you.

[@Rmstatorinc]

Awesome! Glad you found it so helpful. Appreciate your comment!

[@raypearson4475]

This is the best detailed test and explanation video I've found thus far! Well done!

[@Rmstatorinc]

Glad it was helpful!

[@Yowmizer]

The best explanation on the web!!The MOFSET values is what i was looking for!

[@dudufregoso]

Excellent video! The clearest and simplest explanation I've seen around. Totally recommended to be watched by anyone wanting to understand how this little critters work

[@Rmstatorinc]

Thanks!

[@bigbigby4657]

I see there were 17 dummies that tried watching this video and didn't like it cause they lacked understanding... Been a while since I've had to work on this stuff, and this video was a GREAT refresher course. Spot on Dude!! Good job! I gave it a Like and saved it to my Favorites! 👍

[@Rmstatorinc]

Great! Glad to hear it helped!

[@JeanGuitare-b5l]

Very very good video, clear explanations, precise and easy to understand. I was able to do the tests on my Honda Fourtrax TRX300 rectifier/regulator, 1995.

[@ramilekis-ing8987]

you really help a lot for us but i wonder why there are still people giving a thumbs down to this video. watching from the philippines.

[@Rmstatorinc]

Glad to help! It's KZbin, who knows!

[@mikanelson5278]

Wiring harness eaten clean through and am having to figure out the whole electrical system and testing all my electrical parts. Evan has the best videos that explains everything in simple terms. Thank you for the videos!

[@Rmstatorinc]

This is Evan, thanks so much! Really happy to hear the videos helped you out!

[@Spitfireseven]

DUDE!! You deserve a prize! Not just for explaining the function of a voltage regulator but for making it fun and easy to understand. Maybe I was just ready for this but you made it easy to understand with this diagram. Now the whole component seems so simple. Now splicing wires to make a change from like the four connecter plug on the smaller 50cc regulator are going to seem so simple. I'm sure I'll goof some stuff up but that will only be because of curiosity in seeing what might work, This was just great!

[@brianlaird5355]

All I can say is after watching your video I finally get it. Thank you for taking the time to put this video out.

[@eschrader]

Thank you for taking the time to make this video. Dirt bike wiring is like a big mystery because it is so simple, but few people have this level of understanding and of those people they do not take the time to explain it.

[@theone2be33]

Hello Evan! I watch a LOT of KZbin vids. Your video explaining R/R is by far the best educational video I've seen. Very well done. I felt that if I never even heard of a motorcycle I would understand what you were talking about. Looking forward to watching more of your vids! 👍👍👍

[@Rmstatorinc]

Awesome, so glad to hear that. Really happy to have helped you out!

[@davidbernhardt681]

That was an incredible instructional video. It was clear, concise, and for me made complete sense on knowing how to analyze my charging system.

[@ryanmccarthy7281]

This video is a godsend for troubleshooters with limited knowledge. Bike shops owners hitting the dislike button. Great video!

[@ingsoc9066]

best reg/rec testing demo I've seen...thanks for putting this up

[@Rmstatorinc]

No problem!

[@davidtams1218]

Excellent. No waffle. No annoying music. Just clear description and facts.

[@Rmstatorinc]

Right on!!!

[@nigelmitchell351]

My 2008 Aprilia rsv has an extra wire on the output side which runs to the ignition switch, is this a separate supply to the switching of the regulator and why is it there ? Thanks for this post !

[@chanseford6205]

Really helped explain what I was actually doing when trying to test my regulator/rectifier. Thank you for the informative video.

[@Rmstatorinc]

No problem, glad to help!

[@tomcruel210]

Great! Very helpful, very clear demonstration that made me understand clearly how a rectifier works and how to diagnose it as well and the voltage regulator. Thank you very much!

[@Rmstatorinc]

No problem, glad it helped!

[@cpwatching5647]

Best explanation and demo I've ever seen on this subject!! Well done!

[@kachiskid]

Really great explanation! Working on rewiring a GY6 engine with an 11 pole stator upgrade and have to rewire the bike to accept a 6 pin regulator/rectifier. This is going to help a lot!

[@Rmstatorinc]

Great, glad to help!

[@wingson8951]

Great man, lot of love from South Africa.

[@Rmstatorinc]

Thanks!

[@AlistairDsilva]

Brilliantly explained....one of the best video I have come across for troubleshooting regulator rectifier

[@tomcrockettsr]

Highly educational video. Even I was able to get it.

[@Rmstatorinc]

Awesome, thanks!

[@crazyDIYguy]

Omg he speaks english good, he simplifies it and breaks it down. Ugh finally thank God.

[@herkko61]

Excellent tutorial! Remembering the drawing in your mind (diodes' direction and battery's plus and minus sides) makes it so easy to understand how to measure between each connector pair and what the results really mean. Regulation was very informative as well. Good job, thank you!

[@Rmstatorinc]

Great! Glad to hear it helped!

[@Bill97070]

The diagrams, explanation and demo were very helpful. Thanks.

[@Rmstatorinc]

Happy to help!

[@almouwahedbillah2083]

Very well detailed test. Best I have ever seen.

[@Rmstatorinc]

Thank you!

[@dkb194]

Retired engineer with Harley losing charging while on the road. Great and straight forward explanation. Are these rectifier regulators usually failing due to over heat. I have a chrome basket over top of the reg which may limit heat shedding.

[@Rmstatorinc]

Yes, heat is usually what eventually kills them. I would not recommend running any sort of cover on a regulator, no matter how shiny! Harleys are hot motors, and the regulator soaks up alot of heat on these. Let the cooling fins do their work!

[@dkb194]

@@Rmstatorinc Thanks for the reply. Bought a new Drag Spec as RMStator didn't have a reg for my 2008 Harley Street Glide. When I bench tested it I had 1's with red mm on +ve and -ve DC pins on all three AC pins but 1's and .470 V with -ve on DC pins and red on all three AC pins. This is the same as bench test results on old reg.Bike ran well after install and 100kms no fluctuation for 14v on my on bike volt meter. Any suggestions

[@raymondgarafano8604]

I am impressed with stator set up for checking regul8orz!

[@twinklermystik7644]

I love your set up for actual testing. I had not thought of using my lathe to spin a flywheel over the alternator. However, in my own research of the charging systems, I'm something less than impressed. After going through 4 regulators in 5 months, I've begun taking them apart. (Yes, it's a lot of work but you can get the potting epoxy out of there.) Of course, using 1960s technology in the 21st century is rather like going moose hunting with a pocket full of rocks and a sharp stick. SCRs shunting 20 Amps to ground in an age of high power MOSFETs??? I'm disappointed with the ratings of the components. There is virtually no safety factor which makes the regulator very unforgiving. But it's also the only application I have ever seen that has the heat from the components must pass through the circuit board to be dissipated. Circuit boards do not conduct heat. I have also found as much as 1/8th inch of epoxy between the circuit board and the case (heat sink). It seems there is nothing to insure the circuit board does not "float" up and away from the cooling surface, to be suspended in the epoxy. By the time the case gets warm, the components are burned out. Mine is a 30 Amp alternator. Short-circuit current, at 1500 RPM is 29 Amps RMS. (That's 42.3 Amps peak) So 35 Amp components won't play long. Open lead voltage on the alternator, at 1500 RPM, is 60 Volts RMS. (98.98 Volts peak) 60 Volt rating on components? Really? Then more than 1/8th inch insulated gap between the heat source and the cooling surface? The last one I put in worked for exactly ten seconds. With those components, heat dissipation is EXTREMELY important. I'll build my own. The components will have a thin piece of mylar between them and the cooling surface. The circuit board will be above them. And why are my 44 Amp components physically six times larger than what I uncovered in the epoxy? They still fit inside the old housing. What I found in the epoxy would appear to have been developed during a wild office party, and then careless workmanship added for good measure. "Engineers left unsupervised." Talk to someone from MIT, have them put a "MODERN" regulator together for you, and you'll never have to replace it again. Added advantage... With a constant 14.2 to 14.4 volts out, you won't have to add water to your battery every other month.

[@mk1cortinatony395]

Can you do a video of your build please Twinkler ?

[@vinnysalemme9973]

Great observations. Just a guess, but maybe the Yesteryear products are under designed and manufactured overseas to intentionally fail sooner than they should. That keeps US dollars flowing to a country whose very existence depends upon the design and production of substandard products to the rest of the world.

[@jonking1863]

Awesome video. Have a question is there a sequence in the yellow wireing because my bike don't have the original connector?

[@Rmstatorinc]

Thanks! There is no polarity to the Yellow wires. They can be installed in any order.

[@WaldoWizard]

I had this Same question running through my head 10 minutes ago and this answer solved it !! ... had a new RR installed but the mechanic had to rewire the connector and I was wondering about any certain order. Great video explanation! 👍

[@tilow4845]

Explained in great detail. Thanks for the video!!!

[@Rmstatorinc]

Glad it was helpful!

[@blanguiney154]

I absolutely agree, one of the best explained videos there is on the matter, well done and thanks

[@stewartroddy7030]

Great video, When I put my black meter lead to batt pos i get 0.5v on 3 phases. When I put black meter lead to batt neg i get OL for 2 phases but it bells out on the third. Does this mean the rectifier is broke?

[@tony97gt]

Great video. I get zero readings when connected to my 3 wire regulator. All I get is the OL on all 4 phases. Ordered a new one so lets see how that one checks out.

[@michaelspanos269]

understood this video very well, thought I diagnosed my bad rectifier well... but my new rectifier tests exactly the same. Haven't installed it yet with hope I can still return it. Thoughts?

[@21jsfleming]

Best explanation I have seen, very valuable

[@Rmstatorinc]

Glad it was helpful!

[@Desertphile]

This is beyond excellent. Thank you.

[@Rmstatorinc]

You're very welcome!

[@Revoltnow123]

very professional and clearly explained. thank you. i have tested 3 reg/rects following the same steps and all 3 passed but when I connect the red wire from the units to the battery's + and the black to the - there is a short (sparks and melting wires). Any ideas why this is so? It's a 97 suzuki savage.

[@Revoltnow123]

mystery solved. my battery had reversed its polarity. strange but true. the guy I bought it off must have charged it the wrong way or something.

[@stephenstevens890]

very informative, more than I can comprehend right away. once I think about it for a while it will eventually be understood,

[@Rmstatorinc]

Great, glad to help!

[@patrikhammarstrom9907]

I would also like to see if you can test the regulator with a non running engine, only crank. I have a no spark issue, new cdi but trying to rule out the regulator. Rectifiers work fine.

[@coldpizza2.7k26]

Thanks for the explanation. My bike reads about 14.1 when starting and after running for about 20-40 minutes the voltage drops to 12.2 volts (my dealer says it should be charging 14.1 consistently). This drop happens when the bike is running on a hot day with a hot motor. Is there a thermostat in the regulator that controls the heat or is it just the fins on the regulator that keeps it cool. And what happens if that thermostat fails.

[@Rmstatorinc]

Yes your bike should continue charging (well over 13V) even when hot. This sounds like a heat related failure. It is most likely to be your stator windings failing as they soak up heat (either opening or shorting to ground), but could also be the regulator. On an older bike I would recommend just replacing both at the same time to solve the problem.

[@joebednar9420]

Excellent!!! Thanks for sharing this!

[@gregorymcnear6474]

Cool test bed setup 😊

[@Rmstatorinc]

Glad you like it!

[@dinakarsoul]

Awesome info and explanation....with the setup of machines to stimulate the bike running👌👌👌

[@Rmstatorinc]

Great thanks!

[@paul1557]

I really enjoyed the video on testing rectifier/ regulators. I have a UTV that I am constantly having to replace the regulator on. Could you do a video on why regulators may fail and show some trouble shooting steps?

[@Rmstatorinc]

Yes we have some more content planned in the future for details on regulator failures and troubleshooting. Thanks!

[@richardsharpe3114]

Thanks for that guys - away now to test mine. All the best from Glasgow

[@RENIELTUBE]

Great video on the topic of rectifiers and regulators. Well done.. Should be mandatory viewing for all owning a Ducati :-)

[@OutFishing13Matthew]

Thanks. This helps a ton! I am working on my 2008 Yamaha F40. The voltage is reading 16.1 volts at running speed. That can't be right.

[@jamesturner2126]

AWESOME VIDEO! I'm getting one of these for my generator.

[@robd754]

thank you. i actually understood what was going on for a change. cheers. can you demo how to test if its the starter or the solenoid which is failing?

[@terryr9579]

WELL DONE, I loved this, so easy to understand I could do it!

[@TheBadMadMan786]

Excellent video! Could you explain why @12:00 MOSFET regulators meter BLACK to Battery + spec will be 0.09-0.11v? Why are their reading different in this direction?

[@cosmic_voyager_]

Best video I have viewed so far. 🔥❤️

[@Menkalinan]

Do you need a capacitator / battery in order for the rectifier regulator to work properly? Or can you simply clamp the multimeter on the DC output?

[@Rmstatorinc]

Most SCR type (non-MOSFET) regulators will function without a battery. However it is recommended to always run the system with a battery installed for proper testing.

[@Menkalinan]

@@Rmstatorinc Thank you.

[@dannyjoecounty]

great info. but I don't know anything about a multimeter, like how to set it

[@Rmstatorinc]

It is very simple. We will do a video sometime soon describing how to use a multimeter. For now, I'm sure there are plenty of guides on KZbin explaining it as well. Thanks!

[@herrtoalett]

Great! Exactly what you need when youre just curious how it works! Thanks

[@Rmstatorinc]

Awesome, no problem!

[@eltwitch9469]

Great video. I had a question though. A bit new to this stator rectifier deal. So I got a relocation kit to put my reg/rec in the front of the utv. But having issues with charging now. I'm wonding if the harness has the stator output cables to the reg/rec flip flopped.. say # 1 on stator is connected to #2 or #3 position on the reg/rec connector. This would cause a issue correct? My voltage guage shows 11-11.5 vdc at idle now instead of 12-14 vdc. When I test the stator it tests good 20vac at idle on all 3 legs, Rev up and all 3 legs jump up 50-70vac. I tested the rec/reg and seems like all 3 legs are reading correctly... .5 at each. But I noticed it's getting quite hot quite quick and low voltage reading at battery and car idles funny. Thank you in Advance 🤘🏼

[@GrecoRoman123]

9:37 I see you removed the yellow wires from the plastic housing/connector for the test. Do they have to go back in the plastic housing/connector in the same order for the charging system to work right? What if you didn't keep track, and put the yellow wires back into their plastic housing in the wrong order?

[@Rmstatorinc]

The Yellow stator wires can be reinstalled in any order, there is no polarity. No need to keep track!

[@GrecoRoman123]

@@Rmstatorinc Thank you! Great video BTW

[@Rmstatorinc]

No problem!

[@jamesoksenjr1192]

Great video, very informative. But I have one question, I have a 2001 Honda Shadow 750 and the wiring coming from the stator had gotten hot and the connector was in really bad shape. I cut the connector off the old connector and installed a new one. When I found the issue two of the wires were in really bad shape with one of them completely disconnected. I believe I got the wires back in their original positions as it seems to be operating properly but was wondering, does it matter what order/position the (yellow) wires from the stator are in when connecting it to the rectifier/regulator? Can they be in any position? Also, can the system work with one wire disconnected?

[@Rmstatorinc]

You can put the 3 Yellow wires in any position, there is no polarity and it will not matter. The system will still work with one wire disconnected, but you will be losing 2/3 of your output from the charging system.

[@delacruzjavi]

I own a 2012 husky te 511. so diodes check out, rectifier good. but, the regulator does not climb all the way up to 14.6V . gets to about 13.7 then start coming down. any ideas on what to test next? thanks! great video

[@bobnicholls2680]

Can you explain what signal is being sent from the reg/rec via the white/violet wire to the ecm on a 2004 skidoo 600 SDI, it causes the eco to turn on and off the main power relay to power up and down the speedo cluster.

[@lkneepkens53]

5.38 you state that the current is producing heat and thats why the unit has a large cooling surface. However the heat of the current is produced in the stator-coils and the shunt has a close to zero resistance and will generate very little heat. The block gets hot by its rectifying proces.

[@Rmstatorinc]

Correct the rectifier diodes certainly do get hot. So do the SCR shunt switches. All of it generates a significant amount of heat that needs to be dissipated by the heatsink housing!

[@Chiefamongsinnerz]

Per the chart my test results are all good, is it possible my regulator/rectifier is still defective? I’m charging at 17volts but I’m told stators usually do not overcharge, they undercharge when dropping a coil.

[@999benhonda]

My rectifier has a red, green and black...and the 3 yellow. The red and green are obvious but not sure about the black. Is it a ground that should go to the battery...or is it a hot wire for powering lights?

[@ionica-paulaboce-lutu7204]

Hi, is there a sequence for wires when you connect them from stator to the regulator/rectifier ? Does it matters where any of the 3 yellow cables enter the regulator/rectifier (also yellow) ? Someone cut the socket that comes from the stator. TY

[@Rmstatorinc]

No there is no sequence or polarity for the 3 Yellow wires from the stator to the regulator. They can be connected in any order.

[@jeanfrancoismege4862]

cette vidéo est excellente pour comprendre comment tester un régulateur merci

[@dunkingonutz5083]

Great video but can you do an explanation on 7-8 what are the extra wires for on a 7 or 8 wire regulator are they extra grounds or hot wires? ? My stator tested good I’m trying to test regulator on my 08 brute force 650 but it has 8 wires. 3 yellow from stator and 5 on output of R/R

[@Rmstatorinc]

On the brute force, the 3 yellow wires are stator AC in. There is 2 Red (battery +), 2 Black (battery -), and White (switched hot, voltage sensing wire). The voltage sensing wire is the battery voltage reference for the regulator.

[@wayne_kurr]

Great video, will this work the same for a single phase stator set up? (Just less diodes to check).

[@mikewhitlock1849]

Any reason I couldn't bench test the rectifier on seadoo jetski 3 phase? For some reason seadoo shop manual says it can't be bench tested. I get regulating test it needs to be running.

[@BigIslandProductions]

Learned a ton! I’m working on a 1966 Honda dream ca78 motorcycle that has an archaic electrical system. Voltage at idle is a consistent 8-9 V when the rpms increase the voltage jumps around and varies between 10-16 V. I’m assuming I need a new regulator/rectifier. I have three wires leading to the regulator rectifier + - and one to the armature I presume. Could just about any 12v 3 wire regulator work? Do you guys have on for sale that could fit the application? Thanks for the video and help!!

[@Rmstatorinc]

Thanks! I just checked out a wiring diagram for a Honda Dream. There is no regulator on your system, it only has a rectifier for the DC battery charging circuit. The voltage is regulated by the load on the lighting coil of the stator. If you did use a regulator/rectifier you would need a 6V unit, which we don't currently have available. We don't make a separate rectifier like you would need either. Sorry, we don't do much for the 60's era bikes. Another option would be to remove the Brown wire, in effect chaining the stator coils together in series between the Pink & Yellow wires. You could run these into a 12V regulator/rectifier, and charge a 12V battery for a more modern type of charging system. You would need to rewire your lighting circuit as well to operate from battery power rather than the stator. Might be more work than it's worth, but there's some options!

[@BigIslandProductions]

RMSTATOR thanks for checking into that! Could I use an (Voltage Regulator Rectifier Motorcycle 12V for Kohler ECH749, ECV740 25hp Engines)? It’s a three prong rectifier regulator. Two from the armature and one to charge the battery. Any reason I couldn’t hook that directly in place of the rectifier? ( excuse my ignorance if this is a dumb question; I have a a bit to learn on this system)

[@michaelpearshouse1100]

My new RR passes test 1, 2 and 4. Test 3 (Meter Black to Battery +) should show readings but doesn't. My reputable supplier in the UK suggests I connect it to the bike (a 2015 Royal Enfield Classic 500) and see how it goes. What symptoms would be apparent if the RR was, indeed, faulty?

[@alexpetilo1953]

is it possible to mixed or exchange the wire from the alternator to the rectifier? i mean like if there is no terminal only wire from the alternator to the rectifier (yellow wire)? is there any specific connection for that?

[@sporty05]

My stator and rec/reg check out with all of the multi-meter tests, however when running the bike, at idle I see about 13.9VDC, and when increasing RPM's it drops DOWN to about 12.5VDC, does this indicate a bad rec/reg? Thanks!

[@poulbruun6851]

Excellent video, but I’m still a little confused. I have 23-25 volt ac at idle between the 3 phases from the stator. About 0.2 ohm between the phases with engine off. None of the phases are grounded. So stator should be good I think? I measured the rectifier to be good also. The problem is that the output is only about 2 volt dc. Is the regulator bad?

[@shanec4441]

Great detail instruction

[@Great_XicoZe]

Need help: I have replaced twice my regulator/rectifier (sym vs125 2010) and it burns after less than a minute after engine start. Already checked all connections and also replaced the stator. What should I test?

[@momo-zoom]

thanks for video i have 1999 honda steed 400 the max voltage on batttery 13.70 what i sholud do ??

[@ronhanish]

How are you getting a resistance reading when you're going from phase to negative? It's supposed to read open I thought. What's the score through the shunt switch.? When you read FaZe to positive , you get open lead or OL. ? The proper direction for the electricity is from phase to positive through the diode. But when you test it it seems like the exact opposite.?; I went to school for all this just trying to refresh my memory. The diode blocks the reading from phase to positive according to your tests. But in reality theory you teach electricity is going from phase to positive in that direction.

[@Rmstatorinc]

All we can measure is the voltage drop across the diode in the forward bias direction. This is the typical 0.5V (0.7V ideal) we usually see in this test. We cannot measure the shunt switches directly on an SCR type. We can measure the internal diode on a MOSFET type (also used as the shunt switch), which is the 0.1V. This site explains it well! www.allaboutcircuits.com/textbook/semiconductors/chpt-3/introduction-to-diodes-and-rectifiers/

[@danamorley1362]

Explained fantastic awesome video

[@seantruhan]

I have a question so I did all the tests and got a new regulator, rectifier new stater and still isn’t charging my battery. Could it be my ECU?

[@laindolora]

Hello, made the regulator test in my Africa Twin 2016 and it is not charging over 13.2 volts, even at 5,000 revs. Could a shorted circuit be the cause?... I checked the rectifier/regulator by performing the tests in this video and all measurements are withing the specified ranges. The reading on test #3 (meter black to battery plus) shows 0.096 volts readings on all three wires of the stator, so I assume my bike has a MOSFET regulator; not quite sure though.... After some months I received a new rectifier/regulator (not MOSFET though) and now the system is charging at 14.37 volts, so I guess the OEM rectifier/regulator was defective reaching only 13.2 volts.... Wonder why the OEM rec/reg became defective; could it be I jump started my bike with a car when the battery became old and didnt hold up charge anymore? Thx for the very comprehensive video!

[@MrGooyam]

Hi Evin, I am working on a jet ski, and have a 5 wire rect/reg (just like yours). So, going by the chart you have made, I only get numbers (all the same ~0.395) in the left bottom quadrant, and nothing on the top right quadrant (other two quadrants are OL). So that means I have three bad diods, but isn't that on the rare side, that all three diods are showing bad showing OL? your advise? thanks.

[@larryashby4217]

What about a regulator/ rectifier that has a small black voltage sensing wire? Is it the same test?

[@Rmstatorinc]

Yes, as far as testing goes, the voltage sensing wire won't change anything. Most newer models have removed the voltage sensing wire for the regulation battery reference voltage. On older bikes, increased resistance through an old wiring harness causes the regulator to think the battery voltage is much lower than it really is, which bumps up the output from the regulator. Easy way to overcharge and damage your battery. We don't include this wire for most regulators, even if the original used it. The most accurate voltage reference for your regulator is always a direct connection to the battery!

[@nathandtanner]

Awesome video, very detailed and well explained. I have a question, if you tested the DC output of a rectifier/regulator without a battery connected, would it read the same voltage as the stator? Because there is no reference voltage and the switching would be trying to put out as much power as possible?

[@nickmortensen406]

Great question. I'd love the answer to that as well.

[@zaracelik2030]

So every mesure Above 14,5 volt is a defect regulator?? On 5000 rpm , can we fix it to in stead of ordering a new one

[@Mike-zu5xj]

Would like to see a video on capacitor charge system on a lawn mower. These don't have electric start and no battery. But run a 12 volt electric clutch for mower deck.

[@raymondgarafano8604]

Hello RMSTATOR, Would it have been a better idea if when the voltage was higher than it should be, that it would go through a resistance instead of a dead short? I just had my RR go out on me, a nice bit of smoke! It turns out the connector a 2 pin plug on a 91 Sporty heated up and shorted the plug between the stator and the RR. Luckily the stator is good as it is within H-D specs and delivers 65 volts at 2500 spins of the crankshaft. I can see that if any top diode opened up it would reduce the amount of current, as that leg from the stator would not be deliviering any volts or amps. If one of the bottom diodes opened up, would that overload the other two diodes? No telling what happened to my RR. a total open between stator leads and Bat+ wire. Thank you very much for your help.

[@dudufregoso]

Just a quick observation: when testing diodes (1st part of your video, testing it off the bike) the units of the values you read on a DMM are in Ohms, not Volts

[@Rmstatorinc]

Sorry, but a diode measurement is in Volts, not Ohms. The diode setting on a multimeter measures the voltage drop across a diode, it is definitely a voltage measurement.

[@rogerstar6683]

I find out that three diods are dead! They are "closed" in both direction. It is either the three up or the three down in your drawing. But all seems work fine with only three diods? Charge is about 14.6V. Battery 13V, fully charged. I suppouse the voltage is pulsing, but my voltmeter don show that. Should I change rectifier anyway?

[@Rmstatorinc]

Some rectifiers are half wave, meaning they only have 3 diodes in the top of the rectifier bridge. This could be the case. It is usually on smaller cc motors. That would explain your test results and still charging fine.

[@rogerstar6683]

@@Rmstatorinc i bought a new bigger one from Amazon and it shows same when i measure it, I test same on a third (for Ducati) and äll are same...

[@paulacabbo466]

What would cause the regulator to intermittently spike at 18 volts then go back to working normally again, if something failed wouldn't always be failed, can shunting switches be bad then start working correctly again

[@Rmstatorinc]

This is typically a failure of the control IC chip that triggers the shunt switches. It will likely continue to get worse, then stop regulating permanently. I would replace the regulator before this happens.

[@bruce9898]

Awesome explanations. very helpful. Thanks

[@Rmstatorinc]

No problem!

[@LesPeterson-k8g]

I have a 3 phase chargeing system , with 3 wires out red goes to battery? Green goes to ground ? Black goes ? 3 yellow goes to another connector,

[@Rmstatorinc]

If you have a Honda, typically you will have 3 Yellow wires going into the regulator from the stator. On the regulator Green is Battery negative, Red is Battery positive. Black is a switched +12v from the keyswitch that is used as the regulator voltage reference.

[@stephencochran1504]

To help people understand the stator maybe add a ground symbol at the center point.

[@kylearney7172]

Great mini lecture

[@Rmstatorinc]

Thanks!

[@gennaro10100]

Congratulations beautiful video I wanted to ask you a question, we can change the configuration of the stator from triangle to star.I'm waiting for your welcome reply thanks

[@Swordie100]

This seems similar to a gasoline power generator? I'm getting 22 volts on the brushes, so I'm thinking towards the voltage regulator or diode rectifier. Voltage on the windings seems to be okay.

[@Rmstatorinc]

Similar, but not the same. A generator using brushes will have a different type of regulator that powers the field coil through the brushes. It regulates by turning the magnet coil on and off.

[@Swordie100]

@@Rmstatorinc Right on, it's a moonshaped regulator so either that one is bad or something worse inside the rotor..