Replacing Rear Trailing Arm Bushings on BMW 3 series 92 thru 05, Z4 thru 08, X3 thru 10

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In this DIY and How-To video, we'll show the procedure for replacing the rear trailing arm bushings (RTABs) on the E36 and E46 3-series as well as the E85 & E86 Z4 and the E83 X3. We'll remove the old bushings and show the installation steps for stock replacement bushings, Urethane upgrade bushings and the Ultimate bearing-type bushings.
The applicable Bentley repair manual will detail the specific procedures and torque values for your given BMW model.
PARTS USED:
• Various versions of replacement and upgrade RTABs:
www.bavauto.com/se1.asp?dept_i...
TOOLS USED:
* Paint Pen Marker:
www.bavauto.com/fland.asp?part...
* Trailing arm bushing press tool
www.bavauto.com/fland.asp?part...
* Floor jack & jack-stands
* 1/4" drive metric socket and ratchet set (10mm specifically)
• 1/2" drive metric socket and ratchet set
• open-end metric wrench set
• Various pry-bars
On the BMW models noted in this article, the rear suspension hub assembly is incorporated into a larger cast iron suspension assembly that we just call the rear trailing arm. The trailing arm is attached to the vehicle chassis and articulated via two lateral control arms (upper and lower) and a forward longitudinal pivot point at the front of the trailing arm. As with all of the connection points for the control arms (to the trailing arm and the chassis), the forward pivot point uses a large bushing for attachment to the chassis as well as allowance for articulation. As the wheel moves up and down during suspension movement, the forward trailing arm bushing becomes the pivot point. Additionally, the forward trailing arm bushing is performing the task of locating the rear wheel longitudinally and through this, also absorbs the majority of the torque loads that are transmitted from the tire's contact with the pavement and ultimately into the chassis. In other words, the bushing is the contact point for the positive loading under acceleration and the negative loading during braking, keeping the wheel in place on the vehicle.
With the above points noted, the Rear Trailing Arm Bushing (RTAB) is a highly stressed suspension component. As the RTABs age, the vehicle will feel less secure on the road. The rear of the vehicle can move around as the torque loads of acceleration and braking act on the bushings, effectively steering the vehicle from the rear. As the bushings continue to age, a clunking can be experienced as the vehicle goes over bumps or transitions between braking and acceleration. Note that these symptoms can be present, yet a visual inspection of the bushings may not show any apparent problems. The bushings are simply too soft at this point.
In replacing the RTABs, we have various options on the replacement parts:
* Stock replacement - These bushings are available as either genuine BMW or various other quality aftermarket manufacturers.
* Urethane upgrade - Installing urethane RTABs will provide a tighter control of the trailing arm. Not only will the rear suspension feel more "planted" in spirited driving, the steering inputs will feel more direct and will transitions between braking and acceleration.
* Ultimate RTAB upgrade - The Ultimate trailing arm bushings provide all of the benefits of the urethane upgrade bushings along with full articulated spherical bearing action, while still damping vibrations through the chassis. The Ultimate RTAB uses an fully articulated suspension bearing installed in a billet housing. This design eliminates all flex yet provides 100% articulation of the trailing arm.
Follow along with our DIY video as we discuss the different bushings and show how to remove the old bushing and install the three different types of new RTABs.

[@frankryan8100]

I miss Bav Auto... RIP.

[@richardmartin7824]

Clear and concise , no nonsense, just what we all want, Thank You Sir!

[@nutsackmania]

*_Removal without the specialty tool_* 1. Burn the old bushing out or use a drill to put some big holes in the rubber so you can remove the center and a good deal of the rubber. You are effectively destroying the bushing if it isn't already. 2. Once you have enough space to get a sawzall blade in, use it to make cuts in the bushing sleeve (being careful not to cut into the arm) in two places maybe 30-40 degrees from each other. 3. Use a flat-blade screwdriver or punch with a hammer to knock out the area between the cuts. 4. Collapse the rest of the bushing sleeve using the punch/screwdriver. It should begin to fall out as it collapses. This approach takes maybe five minutes once you find your groove, and it works best if you are replacing with polyurethane (no press required) or have a large puller/ball joint press with the appropriate sleeve sizes to install factory bushings. Kits with the sleeves are available for rental from almost any auto parts store or purchase for $60-100. This approach is common in auto shops for bushing/mount removal, depending on the mechanic's preference for the particular job.

[@mikeblast7507]

I love these videos. They're very clear on what you need to do when you're working on a clean car without rusting bolts, when you've had stuff on and off numerous times. For the rest of us dealing with 20-25 year old cars and the parts are all original, this won't be as easy as Otto demonstrates. I tried using this $90 tool, and it was useless for my bushings, which were thoroughly gauled into the carrier bracket. Instead, I took a small pry-bar I had laying around, and placed it between the bushing flange and the carrier and banged on it with a rubber mallet. I had it out in less than a minute. So, save your money on this tool. It did come in handy when installing the inside powerflex bushing segments, neither of which seemed to fit. (the outer segment went in easily.) That said, with a little ingenuity you can easily take a threaded rod, a couple of washers, a couple of nuts, and two pieces of wood or electrical box covers (60 cents a piece) and easily come up with a far cheaper, but just as effective jig.

[@jw200]

Didnt know that rear toe is adjusted with that thing. Smarter again. Glad you mentioned this, i didnt plan to mark the bolts.

[@djdB]

Thanks for the great guide, was very clear. I will be installing urethane rtabs to avoid the trouble of preloading OEM ones.

[@youtubito69]

Excellent explanation on how to perform this job, I'm buying parts and tool from you guys, thank you.

[@nabbez5436]

very good videos does this applies to z3 1997 as well ? thanks

[@siamakkami4078]

Awesome video, thanks

[@cillroy]

Thanks for that , thought it would be a much bigger job

[@ahmedmohamedy4304]

I see that the ultimate trailing arm bushing with spherical bearing has no cuts out , so what will you do if you are tring to pull it out ?

[@hickton45]

no mention of the preload procedure?

[@emilepapillon2275]

Exactly what I was about to comment...

[@richardgonzalez7199]

Wow super, super great job 👍

[@jameswitanga8611]

Mate I'm going to fabricate one of those pullers up. Awesome thanks.

[@PStewart28]

Hey Bavauto, what size ratcheting wrench is used on the tool? Is it 18mm?

[@rodrigoruffa7460]

I heard that for the OEM bushing you need to "preload" it by correctly positioning the bracket in a specified angle. how did you achieve this? Is it enough if you mark the bracket/trailing arm position before removing it? thank you!

[@jefftc14]

I suspect they did the other types of bushings to avoid having to explain this in the video lol

[@maneki9neko]

One approach is to note the angle of the bracket with respect to the bushing before you tighten it, and replicate this on the reinstall. The trailing arms are relatively long compared to other bushed joints of this type. Therefore the angle transited during the full range of suspension travel is pretty small. This is not a critical angle.

[@henrymontgomery5401]

Well, I suspect they did the other type of bushings because they wanted everyone to BUY THEIR BUSHINGS! He could have easily showed both in this short video, but chose not to..and then chose to back it out like it was garbage, and then proceed to show their brand which is MUCH BETTER (OBVI) 😂🤣...and MUCH, MUCH, MORE EXPENSIVE...HEADY PLAY!...HA HA!

[@bostonaudi]

Yes, and there is an alignment tool for this. It’s a long flat bar that bolts to the RTAB housing and aligns it to the center of the rear axle, makes preloading the stock bushings a snap.

[@ZondaF355]

Great videos! Could you PLEASE do a detailed video on installing timing belt/water pump and all new belts on the E30 M20? Can't seem to find one anywhere and you do the most detailed and instructional videos. Thanks in advance your loyal customer.

[@bavarianotto4478]

We likely will not be doing an M20 timing belt video, but have you seen our DIY write-up on our Tech Blog? Click the link - blog.bavauto.com/7246/bmw-m20-6-cylinder-timing-belt-replacement/

[@nevnrael8850]

whats the name of that tool for release and mount the bushing?

[@Iraqitammar]

does the bushings removal tool that you used on this video can also be used to remove the rear control arm bushing or the whole 6 axle bushings?

[@bavarianautosport]

+Tito Neal - No, just the trailing arm bushing. We're working on tools for the other rear bushings.

[@LucaVerciani]

Is that an sixpoint ratchet spanner i spy @9:24 ? What brand?

[@imranshishani3052]

please make video of changing intake manifold gaskets m62.similar videos done by other channels has bad quality

[@TheTurbinator]

How do you take the last type of bushing off when it comes time to replace it. It looks like it does not have any flange cut outs for the press tool.

[@glennurquhart7175]

same way as it went in, by hand. "removal is reverse of install" just watch the video.

[@bavarianautosport]

Hmmm ... ok .. good question. First thoughts; slide hammer or cut notches for the removal tool. We will bring this up to the manufacturer!

[@henrymontgomery5401]

Easy...just remove the 3 screws & pop off the "dummy" inner flange and it will give you access to the inner-side of the bearing in order to pull out the bearing towards the outside of the vehicle. The bearing was pushed in...so it has to be pulled out, but the inner flange needs to be removed first! : )

[@3alooa1]

you know i am having a trouble with my e36 right now. I have changed the trailing bushings, with original ones but the handling of the car is very poor. so i am to replace the new bushings with a powerflex ones. but i am wondering, would i need to change the trailing arm itself first???!!!!! as I am thinking that the bushing housing might have got wider now due to multiple pushing change?!!

[@SalikRafiq]

I was told that after changing the bushing, or any suspension work really, get alingment done.

[@dtmfool789]

I just installed new coilovers with mounts and raised the car back up. (it was slammed on the old coilovers) but now its creaking like a pirate ship in the rear. Could it be these bushings? What happens when they go bad?

[@goclunker]

You probably have poly rtabs

[@jockas1]

Great video! And wow that E36 is MINT! 3L or 3,2? Thanks again!

[@bavarianotto4478]

Thanks! '95 3.0 M3

[@jockas1]

Amazing car, and a future classic! And thanks for the reply!

[@SuperMonsteraddict]

Do you have any videos for replacing a e46 starter

[@bavarianautosport]

+santiago perez - not currently, but the intake manifold must be removed to access.

[@kavan1773]

So these same steps can be applied to an E46 M3, correct?

[@zalebsmom]

yes

[@frank215]

No preload on the trailing arm?

[@bavarianautosport]

Not when installing urethane or the Ultimate bushing. Yes, standard replacements must be "set" so that they are not pre-loaded when the vehicle is sitting at ride height. The Bentley repair manual does show this.

[@rondjeee]

+Bavarian Autosport good vid! can you explain this part to me? when using oem bushings how the preload prosedure goes? thanks

[@angelisone]

Very nice tip & video. Can you do one on M1 and M7?

[@bavarianautosport]

+angelisone - not sure what you mean.

[@angelisone]

+Bavarian Autosport A BMW M1 and M7 cars.

[@Spyder76137]

Alpina B7 you mean? There is no M7.

[@larrymcgonigal3199]

@@angelisone , m n nnn n

[@angelisone]

@@Spyder76137 No, An M7. Now they came out an M8.

[@morgandudka6655]

where can I pick up one of the rear brackets, used at 3:15?

[@StanceGaming]

ecsTunning

[@user-yc2cq4vy9q]

good

[@MeisterWerks]

Don't burn the bushings ou, EVER. The time it takes to burn them out will warp the aluminum trailing arm. Cut the rubber "notch" nubs off on the ends with a box knife. That will make it easier to accept any standard bushing press. I know for a fact that the Snap On flat bushing press works with the 57.5mm short adapter from that kit. You can use a press with an adapter between 56-60mm and it will work. On the back side you need a 62-67mm for the bearing to be able to go into. Takes about 5 minutes to press them with the proper tool.

[@Magicstockton]

🏆🏆

[@goclunker]

none of the links work

[@kaminari66]

This video brought to you by copper anti-seize.

[@bavarianautosport]

+kaminari66 .... and blue gloves!

[@markyantoni6098]

E46

[@ajferrer96]

Good video, maybe some enthusiasm would make the talking parts less dreadful though.

[@kkampy4052]

I will tell you that this doesn't go nearly as smoothly on a rust belt car.

[@Jbeezyburr]

Why are you so dull on all of your videos? sometimes i cant make it through a whole video because your voice makes me want to go to sleep!