Beading vs. Sheeting Waxes & Sealants - which is better for my paint?

[@johng753]

Very good explanation of beading versus sheeting. In Nevada the water is very hard I’ve found that a de-ionized water rinse at the end of every wash is the only sure fire way to prevent hard water spots. I test the water with a TDS meter and you can see municipal water over 200ppm drop to 0ppm when used with a quality de-ionized water system with a dedicated hose. If your washing a car with a gardening hose that’s a few years old in an area with hard water I guarantee you the inside of the hose is filled with minerals. After you spend extra time compounding cars with bad water spots you come to appreciate the performance of de-ionized water.

[@peepers4763]

Dude, you do a good job, articulate, and informative, You’ve got the right stuff. The two products mentioned, I’d have liked a shot of the bottles. Also thought to myself too much water spraying and not long enough checking out the actual beading/sheeting of the products. Just saying, less spraying and more product results.

[@rgman2858]

Thank you. I live next to a cement factory and I've used tons of waxes and nothing keeps hard water stains off my car, now I know why

[@willwarro4054]

you will never not get water stains. unless you rinse with moonshine. the best advise is buy a good quality car cover. thats what i had to do living in coal town western, md. damn coal mines and trucks will piss you off and make you wish there were earthquakes every day of at least 7.0 and collapse those mines and crumble your concrete plant. you could try hiring a lawyer and make them pay you for your problems beings they are the source. take plenty of pictures and have a lab test the residue. if it comes back concrete materials. you might have a case. if not then get donald trump and he will make your problem magically disappear i promise. lmfao!

[@shawnburr8692]

I prefer beading products myself as well, thanks for sharing this video demonstration.

[@willwarro4054]

im waiting for a new wax on paint. so i can change colors when i get tired of my paint. just wax on a coat of paint and voila a new showroom color in a can! check on ebay they sell everything. even trips to planet youranus, myanus, and somebodyanus!. wax on paint could be a good scam idea. just add food color to your wax and there you have it. a factory new car in a can!

[@bradbeck2601]

0:25 thought he was about to break out in the "itsy bitsy spider" song...

[@sikkinixxmc]

Great video. I did learn a great way to rinse the vehicle after washing is to remove the spray nozzle. Just use an open garden hose and it floods the water off great. I do this with kisses sealant glaze by the way. Try rinsing like that

[@MrLifedriven]

5:30 not true, I live in the desert and it only rains once in a while; when it does, the dirt in the wind sticks to it and yeah..

[@bryanfields6940]

Great videos. Keep the tests coming. I currently use Zaino sealant products and would like to see how they compare to some other sealants. If you could put that in a video, that would be amazing

[@macallanvintage]

You kept talking about water repellency. WR has no correlation with stain-release qualities and grime-rejection. A treated surface can be highly water-repellant, with impressive beading. But after driving in the rain a few times without being washed, the paintwork might look very dirty...much dirtier vs other panels treated by different waxes, sealants or coatings. And on such dirty, stained panels, certain waxes make the stains even harder to remove. Soft 99's high end waxes tend to exhibit this flaw. Compare a 2 white panels treated with Fusso + Sonax paste wax. After 2 weeks of driving and encountering bad weather, the Fusso panel looks like shite, and some dirt cannot be easily washed off, while the Sonax panel wont look as bad, and hv much less stains. Even worse, some waxes, sealants and coating make the paintwork even MORE susceptible to hard water-spotting/water marks. Again, Fusso products possess this characteristics. And of course, this problem is notorious on my glass-based coatings. Dont forget...rain drops sitting on your car has no velocity. It wont magically move by itself if car is not driven. Millions of super round beads sitting on the paintwork...and then drying up. There could be problems. A wax is not only about repelling water for a long period of time. Repelling water doesnt mean much. What can it do for the car owner??? I'd say the car owner would want protection from stains, great stain release properties so that after each wash, the car looks great, and it shdnt make any any oily grime adhere itself to that layer of wax.

[@WaxMode]

I work with water behavior because it's easier to test and show others, it's one of the most important factors that buyers use to judge performance (despite it not being the sole identifier of performance), and I believe it to be a good judge of the survivability of the product. Right now I'll have to rely on the UK guys test anti-soiling, they have a much more brutal environment than I do. The beading vs. sheeting debate is all about water behavior, the argument was simplified into a single idea that high surface tension products are bad and lower surface tension products are better...with the idea that you could reduce spotting simply by making or choosing a product that was less hydrophobic comparably. It's simply not the case in my observations, I'm seeing similar spotting levels across the board regardless of whether the beading is tight and uniform or large and oblong shaped. Hard water drying on paint is a problem but I don't see how you can solve it through surface tension adjustment - I see it as an unavoidable occurrence with the only way to really combat it is to avoid the source of hard water, create a product that has a ridiculously low sliding angle, or create a product that is more resistant to etching, where the better product is the one that's easier to remove the water spots when they do dry on the surface. That would bring us straight to the soiling resistance and release qualities of the LSP as well - this is another great topic that has proved difficult for me to test accurately as my environment is not a heavy grime one - the results have been pretty comparable between products I'm working with. Thanks for posting, if you've got specific products that are excelling in performance compared to other ones please feel free to share, I'd love to try them out to see if I'm seeing the same results!

[@rayb7295]

Have you tried this test with just the hose with no hose nozzle?

[@INTERLAGOS54]

Nice videos but it seems like the sealant side has died even after you soaped it. Just watched your previous vid and it sheets much faster than this vid. The paste side seems to be holding up much better.

[@WaxMode]

mydeepsecret After one week, two washes and the water spotting, it definitely has lost a bit surface tension. But from the way it was still behaving there's definitely some evidence that the sealant is still there. Right around 5:55 is a good shot where you can see the sealant pool the sheet into different water channels, it looks like the bottom of the water sheet is meeting towards the top. It's just hard for me to gauge the effectiveness of the product when we see such a drastic change in a short amount of time. But there's a good chance that even though we can notice a drastic change in the water behavior, we may still have the maximum amount of actual protection that is left behind from the sealant. Unfortunately right now I just don't have a way to test to see if that's true or not.

[@shahpk3527]

Thanks for such a nice video,,good job,keep it up

[@ianchoo9760]

Awesome video.

[@Curling_Rack]

pooling rinse technique sheets off the water

[@spnfs]

Great video

[@markotrieste]

"Hey Joe, this wax we are selling doesn't stop water adhering to the surface" "no problem Bill, we'll just say it's sheeting and not beading"

[@darenc.8654]

With many of the quality ceramic coatings out there , you'll start to have a hard time keeping water on any surface .

[@bramap9079]

Water beading-type definitely is my fav. I wonder, which one of these (beading-type or sheeting type) is more hydrophobic when driving through the rain?

[@WaxMode]

Bram AP 90 Beading products will definitely continue to remain more hydrophobic driving through the rain. The designated windshield sealing products tend to have a high level of hydrophobic behavior because you want the water to resist that tendency to flood flatter across the windshield when it rains which will obstruct the view. Whereas the more hydrophobic the product, the tighter the beading will be and these beads will easily fly off of the paint or windshield while driving, unless the paint is heavily contaminated which will reduce the hydrophobic behavior of the product until those contaminants are removed from the surface.

[@bramap9079]

WaxMode Yeah, it's true. Sealant for windshield should be beading-type, unless you won't see anything up front. Thanks for the great explanation. Keep vlogging :)

[@craigmail2130]

how many times can i wash it before puttin some more sealant

[@WaxMode]

You can wash a ton of times when using sealants without seeing them degrade off of the paint. A great maintenance schedule is to apply your sealants once every 3-5 months and maintain them using spray waxes/sealants after your weekly washes.

[@Isgood2beKing]

@@WaxMode 3 to 5 months , re apply the sealants, But do you have to completely strip the sealant, or just wash dry and re apply the sealants, Without prepe

[@WaxMode]

flavin flavio - No you can reapply the sealants on top without a full strip. I like to decontaminate the paint and clay at 6 months if I’m running waxes or sealants, and then I polish the paint with the buffer and a fine finishing polish after that claying step. So within that 6 months period I have a lot of freedom to apply whatever I want without stripping the surface clean. Some products like a bare surface so that you can get more durability out of them but I find in general it’s not necessary as long as I’m washing the paint on a regular basis.

[@willwarro4054]

100% water sheeting doesn't exist. only if you never spray water on a painted surface. water beading does and thats what does the damage. spot free rinse or not. you have to wipe a washed car with a microfiber drying towel if you want a perfect finish. don't and you will be screaming all the way to your local paint shop or wet sanding your ass off and buffing out those rings of water beads that burn into the clear coat. wax or no wax! thats the reality of it. considering i have painted vehicles for 45 years. taped, sanded, primed, tacked, retaped and painted. buff compound and wax. rinse and still beads of water. unless you take your car out and beat the sound barrier you might not get beads.maybe. unless you go to bike week and get beads so you can see lots of tits with beaded nipples!

[@antoniogutierrezjr3175]

Shearing is safer

[@antoniogutierrezjr3175]

Go in the shade man

[@iwanrhys7884]

Lo

[@selcukamasya5448]

Stop wasting water dude