Maximizing the Performance of Your Wax/Sealant

[@Arizonad54]

I'm obsessed with Waxmodes videos. Awesome content!

[@groundcontrol6876]

Dude, thanks to this video it completely changed the inconsistencies I used to experience with waxes. It really seems that polishing removes significant amounts of contaminants that the clay leaves behind, because sometimes it was hit or miss how a wax/sealant would perform after claying. Now I always use a finishing polish before waxing or re-waxing and I get consistent and superior results. A few months ago I did a test on the trunk of a really hammered camry (heavy oxidation, etching and scratches) I clayed it completely, degreased it and then corrected half of it, then did IPA wipedown and waxed the whole trunk. The corrected side had perfect beads and the uncorrected side’s beads left something to be desired. Thanks for having shared this information.

[@WaxMode]

Awesome, thanks for the feedback Andres!

[@mynsxt6]

I benefit greatly from a light polish with a finishing pad, I love the spray on ceramic from Meguiars a lot...using m205 or turtle was polish and wax

[@AJ-nl8bg]

Great display how much of a difference polishing makes! Love your reviews...great job

[@stevegreer1963]

Another great video! Just spent 12 hours on a barely used recently purchased 2015 Impala washing, claying, polishing (M205) and sealing with Sonax Polymer Net Shield. Friends thought I was nuts doing all of that to an almost new car. But it really pays off to do all the steps for the best possible shine and protection. The results is well worth the effort!

[@WaxMode]

+Steve Greer It sure is, enjoy the bead dance during the next wash, Polymer Net Shield is amazing!

[@mynsxt6]

That Brilliant Shine Detailer is the real deal, make my car pop and super easy to maintain!!!!!!

[@WaxMode]

Such a good product, and it hasn't been replicated yet. Love how crazy the beads fall off the paint in this video after polishing the paint and then using BSD on top.

[@JWL-UK]

@@WaxMode you're absolutely right there. Not even the latest graphene-based products seem to be a match to BSD. I use it mostly as a drying aid/rinseless wash diluted with Megs Last Touch for added gloss and slickness and it is amazing.

[@mynsxt6]

Your channel provides very valuable insights to surface prep and performance of any product to protect your paint!!!!!! Keep these videos coming please, have your tried the Japanese Fusso wax and king of gloss products, both are paste that provide ceramic like protection in a paste.

[@WaxMode]

Thanks a bunch! I really need to test out the Fusso Coat Dark vs the Light can I have to see if there’s any noticeable difference I can pick up in terms of application or gloss out of the gloss meter.

[@martin05916]

You mentioned you're going to try abrasive vs non-abrasive paint cleansers for differences in performance. Would be good to see a video on that :)

[@xXYannuschXx]

What about using a non-abrasive paint cleaner like Prima Amigo? And do you think this would be necessary on a completely brand new car, when I want to use a light ceramic coating like CarPro Lite or Infinity Wax Synergy Lite (of course with a Gyeon Prep wipedown beforehand)?

[@tonymorgan5698]

Great videos. A video on machine polishers as mentioned ar the end of the video would be great. Dummies guide to machine polishing. And the use of them. Always worries me about having a disaster with one.

[@sikkinixxmc]

Your videos are the best. Thank you.

[@VanDelosSantos]

I only clay my car once every 2 months and then apply Turtle Wax Ice Paste Wax, it does perform the same as your video though. It's a 2016 car with some swirls and scratches but I don't remove them yet because I know it's going to reduce the amount of clear coat. I think this technique only applies to spray waxes or detailers like in your video. However, in the video of Acc0rd79(channel) the wax isn't working well because his paint is extremely bad.

[@Langor]

extremely bad is putting it nicely

[@indrockz92]

Suggest me a good polish that can be done with hand application..

[@WaxMode]

Any type of hand polishing is tough, because most polishes usually like to be worked into the paint for a bit so that they diminish effectively, this is where the polishers excel and once you pick up a polisher you will never attempt hand polishing again unless it's in a really tight spot where the polisher can't reach. But 3D One Hybrid Compound and Polish is one that you can use by hand, I've also been using Meguiar's M110 Compound and M210 Finishing Polish as well by hand on a few areas with good results.

[@Jnaszty559]

Can you make a dilution video. Like some products say mix 4 ounces in one gallon but what about in a 16 or 32 oz bottle?

[@jim6751]

Alight mate, I have already had my car waxed for a good month already and have watched your other video regarding getting the product on correctly. Will I be able to apply this product on top of the wax to get the full potential of this product?

[@5194553739]

Hi What kind of clay bar to use on a not so dirty car. And is a clay mitt good enough

[@izkytama]

Oh i love it how the water fall.. Can i ask the diff between water beading and water sheeting?still confused..thx

[@WaxMode]

Yeah it's confusing the way we throw around terms like beading and sheeting. Water sheeting is how quickly the water runs off of the surface of the paint. Water beading is how tight the individual water beads are. So if you have a really tight beading wax, this generally means the water will sheet off of the paint very quickly. If you have a low beading wax, the beads aren't as tight, and once you flood the paint with a lot of water it will develop into a full sheet of water and run off the paint at a slower rate.

[@5194553739]

Hi How do you like Wolfgang Deep Gloss Sealant

[@jc51373]

So you are saying skip the Clay bar? I spoke with Sonax and they suggested Fallout, then Multistar, then Clay then PNS. So what you are saying is get a polisher..What a difference in your demo here. Wow!

[@jc51373]

My car is brand new BTW..200 miles on it. Honda Accord touring, white.

[@WaxMode]

The clay bar is still necessary to remove that top level of embedded contamination. You want to make sure you remove as much as that type of contamination as you can before you put a buffing pad on the polisher and start polishing the paint. So the clay bar is your best friend for that task, the fallout remover and Multistar are good options to use to eat at that embedded contamination chemically before you start to remove it physically with the clay, they can speed up the claying process. What this video shows is even though we've removed all embedded contamination, we still might have oxidation or weathering of that very top layer of the clear coat that can absolutely interfere heavily with the wax or sealant's ability to bond properly to the surface. So in essence, claying is only performing half of the prep work, therefore I absolutely recommend paint polishing with a polisher if this hasn't been done in a while (let's say within 6-12 months). You can polish with the right abrasives by hand, the only time I recommend this is for areas of the paint that I can't reach with a polishing pad on the polisher (underneath door handles for example). Otherwise I'm using the machine to polish paint and really bring out the gloss and performing the second half of the prepwork prior to applying the protective wax, sealant, or coating.

[@jc51373]

Thanks...Do you think I need to polish brand new paint? Or just the clay/chemical prep for the proper bond? Thanks again for all your help. I chose to take this on myself and I am quickly beginning to think I should have just had the pros put the ceramic coat on the entire car!

[@WaxMode]

I think you'll be fine to skip the polish and still get the sealant to bond well with the paint that new. If you see weak beading after your first washes especially with Polymer Net Shield then you'll know for sure if the paint wants the polish prep. For me it's much more fun to dive into detailing yourself, for as much as guys are charging now to prep for and apply these coatings I could go out and pick up a DA polisher with all the pads and polishes and good microfiber towels and still have enough left over for PNS or a consumer coating like CQuartz or Gyeon or Gtechniq. It's intimidating though when you're just starting out, there's a ton of information and it's easy to get confused but head over to the forums like Autogeek and Autopia and you'll be able to read through a boat load of threads and writeups with great information.

[@jc51373]

I agree with what you said here..And I will likely be investing in a polisher for my car either way so that as it ages I have the control I need to keep the coatings looking their best. I will look into the forums thats something I definitely need to be browsing.

[@rockhills]

So with that finishing pad and m205 you're not exactly out to correct the paint you're trying to "scrub" the paint to get better performance?

[@WaxMode]

That's the right concept behind my testing, but I'll give you the slightly longer answer. M205 is versatile, so you can switch up your pads and pressures to adjust how much you're correcting the paint. When paired with a finishing pad, this will still get you some correction that will clear up some light marring or holograms and bring gloss back into the paint. You can step it up with with a firmer pad to get more cut as well which will do better to remove more noticeable swirls. This is perfect because after that 6 month period when I recommend people to think about claying the paint again, it's reasonable to expect some light marring that might have built up through your weekly washes, or light marring caused by the clay bar especially if you have softer paint. But the idea behind this topic is to really abrade that top surface of the paint which will cut through more than what just a clay bar will remove. And this is what is going to give you that clean slate for the wax/sealant to bond to or seal the surface with to improve the performance. Now, when I do my testing with all of these products I treat M205 as an advanced scrub to remove the previous wax/sealant, so I'm not applying pressure down on the polisher and using a soft pad to prevent cutting through too much clearcoat. The good thing about M205 is it's not a diminishing abrasive, so I don't have to wait for those abrasives to break down before I buff it off. I can do a few light passes and then buff it off without worrying about holograms that pop up when you don't fully break down diminishing abrasive style polishes.

[@spnfs]

Very educational videos ! So does prepping the surface also makes the sealant last longer ? I apllied Sonax NPT ( similar to PNS) after claying my car and the beading lasted only 3 months with 1 wash every 2 weeks minumum so i am bit curious ...

[@WaxMode]

That's right, some products really like that fresh paint to get a strong bond to the surface. Hard to say in your case if that's what really caused NPT to die out earlier than you expected, but I'd pair up the claying step with a quick light polish and see if that helps NPT last a bit longer for you.

[@spnfs]

Thanks for answer , well to bad i only applied NPT a week ago again before watching your videos . To be honest i wasnt very clear before , The problem was that after leaving my car in an open area for 7 days there were water spots all over the car that i couldn't get rid off with just washing ! Thankfully the claying did the job but after that a few questions came in my mind. Is really a beading sealant better than a sheeting one in terms on water spots ? I know you have a video on that but before applying NPT the car had nothing to it and there was no problem with water spots not getting removed by weekly washes . Have you ever had with the NPT(PNS) applied hard to remove water spots ? Thanks Again , Sorry for my not perfect english but i am from Greece

[@WaxMode]

I hear a lot of different information from guys, many have said PNS works great against hard water etching, others have noticed some heavy spotting occur because of how hydrophobic it is. I've gotten some heavy spotting with both PNS and Brilliant Shine Detailer, but nothing has been etching through the paint so far in my testing. Spotting is one of those things where you can have drastically different outcomes depending on how bad the water is that hit the paint, and I'm not sure if the magnifying effect from the sun on tighter beading has any stronger impact on actual etching over time. I'm still seeing very comparable levels of spotting as I test two different products with different water behaviors.

[@WeiYangzxc]

so do you apply it directly after polishing? no wax required? sorry im new and have been having the impression its always polish > wax > then quick detailer

[@WaxMode]

Brilliant Shine Detailer is advertised as a detailer by Sonax, but it really is much more of a spray sealant than it is a spray detailer in my experience. So after polishing the paint you want to seal it using a wax/sealant/coating, and with Brilliant Shine Detailer you can apply it to bare paint or on top of a wide variety of different waxes and sealants. But along with other products, they are going to perform their best when they've been applied to bare paint that has been well prepped, or on top of a wax/sealant that was applied to bare paint that was well prepped.

[@erwinmalimban2197]

I have a question on prep. My car has Fusso Coat 12 on it now and maybe after 8-10 months after I want to apply Fusso Coat again to revive the gloss. Should I use m205 and IPA wipe or can I skip that and just clean the car and apply it(fusso) again? And if polishing is need can I use Meguiar's Ultimate Polish instead of M205?. Thanks!

[@WaxMode]

I would recommend to check for contamination that needs to be removed with a clay bar, if the paint still feels really smooth after a wash, go ahead and reapply the Fusso but check its performance during your future washes. I use those routine washes to gauge how the product holds up while I do the final rinse after cleaning. With Fusso I've seen the panel that I didn't heavily prep before applying, the entire panel started off with consistent aggressive beading/sheeting, but at week 3 the beading was noticeably less aggressive in a small area compared to the rest and that weak area would grow over the weeks after checking during later washes. So you can use that water behavior to let you know how far you should go for the next time you prep the paint, in this case I'm certain I would have seen much more consistent performance had I polished the paint before applying. For me, I'm checking for contamination at that 6 month time period for things that need to be removed with a clay bar, and my decision to polish at this point comes to remove any marring that occurs during the claying step, especially on this blue Honda paint which is really soft and is easily marred while claying. Either Ultimate Polish or M205 will work great as a finishing polish, I've also been working with 3D HD Polish+ with great results as well.

[@stephen8385]

haii waxmode.., i like ur video alot because u compared alot of product, and make everyone know which product is better.. but how is sonax brilliant compare to sonax net shield? which one do you think last longer?

[@WaxMode]

+Stephen Chandra Polymer Net Shield is the full strength paint sealant, you should notice upwards of 6 months of durability from one application. Brilliant Shine Detailer is the spray sealant form, Sonax advertises 2 months of durability, and I'm at 2 months right now on the test spot with a very noticeable quick sheeting behavior. They go hand in hand, if you purchase Polymer Net Shield, then I recommend you grab Brilliant Shine Detailer at the same time to help maintain it over that 6 month period.

[@andrewfessler7203]

Hey quick question. Since you have used both, Is the carpro eraser better than the home made IPA to get maximum performance out of sealants and waxes? Or do you not really see any difference between the 2?

[@WaxMode]

Andrew Fessler - Although I prefer Eraser because it smells absolutely incredible, a regular IPA wipe of about 15% dilution will get the job done. Eraser is said to be a better lubricant but I haven’t had marring issues with IPA on the test cars.

[@andrewfessler7203]

Okay cuz i have tried many test spots on my car for the past 3 weeks and i am having no luck getting the full performance out of carpro reload. the steps i did was first clay bar, then using meguires m105 compound, then meguires m205 polish, then followed by the IPA 25% wipe down, after all these steps i would then apply the carpro reload and i'm not getting the crazy water beading like you are. the type of water behavior/beading i am getting after doing all these steps looks exactly the same after you did just a clay bar and wash and applied product at 0:40. So i have no idea what i am doing wrong because I have tried 20%IPA, 50%IPA with distilled water and just straight 91% ipa wipe down and its not working. So then i tried washing the car with dish soap after polishing then followed up with a ipa wipe down, then applied carpro reload and im still not getting the full performance out of the product like you are. And after about a week the water will start to have more of a sheeting behavior. Is there something i am doing wrong?

[@cruzscarwash2089]

What would you recommend as the best foam wash with sio2 protection built in?? Bonus if shade is not an option... Like at all would the answer for the first question still be the same?? If not what's the second recommendation??

[@WaxMode]

Unfortunately I don't have any experience with the sio2 foamers out of the foam cannon. I've worked with Hydro-Foam and the McKee's 37 Sio2 Auto Wash as a bucket wash soap but it's been a while. I'll have to pull them out as a refresher! Would like to focus on McKee's claim to reduce spotting in direct sunlight, the main issues with these soaps is they will void the pure durability tests on the test cars which is why I haven't used them for so long but we will see.

[@cruzscarwash2089]

@@WaxMode I will say that McKees no spotting is the best or any brand I've used that makes that claim hands down. I've actually let it sit and bake I'm the sun for over an hour and it comes right off

[@evanmyers6003]

very interesting video, thanks.

[@MrInHell]

How does the Porter Cable 7424XP compare to the Griots Garage Polisher? I currently have the 7424XP and am debating whether it would make a difference upgrading to the Griots for more power or ease of use.

[@WaxMode]

That's a good question and the answer is loaded so bear with me. I have the original 7424, the Griot's 6" is noticeably much more powerful and can cut deeper when compounding. Definitely has more torque and doesn't bog down as much when putting pressure down. Now I don't have the XP model but they did bump up the power and torque of the motor compared to the previous model, and the Griot's is still a more powerful motor but I don't know if it's enough to where I would actively seek out the Griot's as an upgrade after already having an XP. In your case you have a few options. If you want more cutting power, try Meguiar's D300 compound and pair that with a microfiber cutting pad to use with your XP. If you're still looking for more performance, a good reason to add another polisher aside from more power is to be able to supplement two polishers for different tasks, for example one DA I keep a 3" backing plate on it and use it specifically for spot polishing in tight areas with a smaller pad, that way I don't have to go back and forth swapping out backing plates which is more of a nuisance on the DA polishers. So something like a Griot's DA to use as a primary polisher that has more power, and the XP with a smaller backing plate for spot polishing is a great combo. Now for those that haven't purchased any polisher yet, the Griot's is absolutely the best deal because Advance Auto regularly cycles 30% off coupons to grab a Griot's for $112 at any time, and then paired up with another Speedperks coupon for previous orders, you can easily get one for around the $100 mark. So this deal makes it incredibly price competitive compared to the XP. Griot's is also known to have the best warranty service out of all the polishers in the U.S. which is a big plus, anything that could go wrong send a message to Griot's or call them up and they will absolutely take care of you. Another polisher to mention is the Harbor Freight DA Polisher which is known to be a solid polisher and a bit of a hidden gem in the Harbor Freight lineup. I have one and although I had a slight issue with a faulty washer for the backing plate, a replacement washer fixed the issue and it's been great - this is the one I've paired with the 3" backing plate. Strong motor, definitely not as smooth as the Griot's at higher speeds so I have no problem using it as a backup and I would still recommend the Griot's for guys who will be working around the entire car. Hope this helps!

[@MrInHell]

Thanks so much for your lengthy response. I've decided to hold onto my XP for now and perhaps if I have the $$ to spare, watch for the Griot's to go on sale. May try to sell my XP as well to cover the cost of getting the Griot's

[@DefMusic79]

What do you recommend for scratch removal? I have had bad luck with Meg's so I hope you don't mention them. I worked at a car lot who ordered from Meg's and we had problems with them. Plus I have seen products that don't cost as much world better. It's just my opinion.

[@WaxMode]

+Jeffrey K For heavy defects you're going to want to grab for either 3D HD Cut or Menzerna FG400 which I believe they recently renamed to Heavy Cut Compound 400. Can't go wrong with either of those choices, although Menzerna is a bit more expensive. If I'm chasing after deeper swirls, working on hard paint, or removing sanding marks, sometimes I'll move up to the rotary polisher and grab a Lake Country purple foamed wool pad. However, I can't go around recommending compounds without putting Meguiar's M100 into the mix. This is a fantastic compound, easier to work with compared to M105 and it's 32oz for $21. So I'm not sure if you've worked with the latest Meguiar's polishes, but I'm certainly not disappointed. M100 paired up with M205 is a great combination.

[@eliashdez]

+Jeffrey K If you are doing 2-step correction on heavily swirled paint, you can use Microfiber Cutting Pads, so you can cut faster and more aggressively, and then finish with a foam pad. But as always, do test spots to see what is going to work best on the paint you are going to work, because paint differs on each vehicle.

[@BlackHawkPSU]

+WaxMode What do you think of Meguiar's D300 and where does it fall in among M100, M105, and M205? Thanks!

[@WaxMode]

BlackHawkPSU D300 is another great option. It has a little less cut compared to M100 and M105, but it's very easy to remove from the paint after polishing and it dusts the least out of those compounds. You'll also get more cut with D300 if you're using a microfiber cutting pad compared to their Ultimate Compound. They all finish out great, leagues above the older compounds. M105 has basically been replaced by M100 for me. M105 cuts fast but it has a short working time and dries out quickly. M100/101/D300/Ultimate Compound are all going to have more lubricated formulas with longer working times if you need it. If you're largely working with a dual action polisher and you have plans to try out some microfiber cutting pads, I'd recommend trying D300 out along with those pads. Since I've been doing most of my compounding work with the rotary polishers, I've largely stuck with M100 with the purple-foamed wool pads as my Meguiar's compound of choice.

[@LoveLikeaHurricane]

Im curious if all the Opti-seal videos i've seen, the surface was not properly prepped.... cause Opti-seal water behavior is terrible in any of the videos I've seen.

[@WaxMode]

+mikepartyboy Opti-Seal and the other WOWA sealants like Blackfire Crystal Seal and Wolfgang Liquid Seal are not going to be very aggressive with water compared to other products, even on polished paint. They are so fun to work with though, I'd really like to see a product like this match the water durability of their sealants like Wet Diamond All Finish and Deep Gloss Paint Sealant.

[@LoveLikeaHurricane]

WOWA is the only thing that really makes sense for detailing for $, unless your clients are special and they are the coating types.

[@Striball]

My car is single stage paint, so say if I did get a DA machine and then a couple foam pads or so, after usage on the pads on my paint that has a decent amount of paint transfer, do I just have to throw away my expensive pads or is there any way to salvage them for the other sides of the car? Are pads generally reused like that?

[@illestFlavor]

Companies like Chemical Guys have pad cleaners and conditioners that clean the pad and also stops the pad from drying out extending life. Only time i would suggest throwing out the pad is when it starts to degrade by having chunks of the pad just fall off. For sure, when you are doing paint correction/polishing you want maximum/even coverage with the pad, but it doesn't matter as much if you are just applying sealant or waxes by machine. Depends how picky you want to be tbh. Pads can last quite awhile if used properly eg. not over heating it plus depends on how bad the paint is too.

[@WaxMode]

+Striball You can definitely reuse your pads after use, even if they get caked up with paint transfer so long as you get to cleaning them shortly after use. What I like to do is have a good number of pads for whatever type of heavier polishing that I'm going to be working with, that way I can switch out to a clean pad after a few panels of work. As I work sections, I will grab a pad brush (a toothbrush can work as well) and run the machine on a high speed while going over the face of the pad with the brush (make sure the pad is still rotating and not just oscillating if using a dual action polisher while cleaning with the brush). This helps remove spent residue that's inside of the pad. You can also run a microfiber towel over the pad as well while it's spinning to help clean on the fly. Eventually, you'll get to the point to where grabbing a fresh pad is the way to go. For full cleaning I've been using Pinnacle XMT pad cleaner for a while with great results, I believe they have just reorganized that brand into the McKee's 37 line of products. That cleaner was a spray on type, they also have a powder type cleaner that you can mix in with 3 gallons of water to let your pads soak in the cleaning solution as you continue to work around the car. That one was the DP Polishing Pad Rejuvenator which was also rebranded to McKee's 37. So those were the popular ones over on the Autogeek/Autopia side of town. After using whatever cleaner, agitate the face of the pads with your pad brush to loosen all the residue up - then rinse. After rinsing them, throw them on the dual action polisher and run it on speed 6 for a few seconds to spin the majority of the moisture out and allow them to dry face down (hook and loop side up, foam side down). Many times you can go straight back to polishing on the paint right after spinning them nearly dry with the polisher without any negative results. This is great if you don't have a lot of extra pads to work with. What I recently started trying since running low on the Pinnacle cleaner is LA's Totally Awesome All Purpose Cleaner. I've been using the Orange one, you can get the 64oz ready to use size for $1 at Dollar Tree. It doesn't foam like crazy while cleaning, it rinses fast and the pads are coming out clean even on single stage paint. So again, as long as you clean your pads shortly after usage, then you'll get a lot of life out of your pads.

[@5194553739]

Can you put HD Pooxy over HD Speed. Than Collinite 845 Or Sonax Brilliant Shine.

[@WaxMode]

You can throw Poxy over Speed without issue. I'm pretty sure a mixture of Poxy and abrasives is what makes up Speed so regular Poxy would work fine. Not sure whether Collinite 845 will dry properly over speed but Sonax BSD shouldn't have any issues whatsoever.

[@semiephemeral9]

about how long does it take you to one step polish your whole car for these tests?

[@WaxMode]

Well I have other areas on the paint that I've cycled different products for testing, when I film my videos I prep the two front fenders and hood which takes about 5-10 minutes of polishing. If I need to clay an area that will add a few minutes per section.

[@lightningsmokerXx]

WaxMode I have the exact same Clay Blocks from NanoSkin that you do Blue & Red and i used Different instant detailers , Meguiars Last Touch Detailer diluted 1:1 as clay lube as directed on their packaging , and i find even after trying to break in the Clay Blocks on the glass, they still drag. In the shade on a summer day. I then use my cheaper brand clay mitt, with the same detail spray 0 problem, responds normally. The only thing i can think is , maybe i need a different clay lubricant. I even tried using the Meguiars last touch detailer straight and it did the same as if it was dilluted 1:1. Any ideas advice?

[@WaxMode]

I've gotten the same behavior in certain conditions as well, sometimes the Nanoskin just doesn't want to behave and other times it works fantastic. Haven't been able to pin point the exact reason, I have standard clay on standby when I do run into issues with certain paints with the Nanoskin.

[@lightningsmokerXx]

I actually called Nanoskin about that , they told me i gotta use their clay lubricant , NANOSKIN GLIDE to make it work right. I didn't know that when i bought the 2 pack fine & medium grade clay block.

[@westside7327]

i have noticed yesterday after applying netsheld it wasn't beading as much like it used to b4!:/ so i apply BSD to it and it started beading pretty good again! is there something i did wrong with netsheld? maybe cuz i didnt polished it right?

[@WaxMode]

+West Side Over the months you should notice a gradual drop in just how aggressively it repels water. Check out my 5 month durability test here if you haven't seen it already: kzbin.info/www/bejne/p6abkpRpiNpkg9k But during that first 1-2 months, it should be repelling at a very high rate still. You can even see during my durability test at 5 months that upper half of the panel still had a very fast sheet rate. So if you're seeing a quick drop in performance, go ahead and try polishing the paint prior to applying it.

[@westside7327]

+WaxMode cool man thanks! i tried clay bar treatment with eraser then applyed netsheld so like after 1 month half wasn't beading so i think thats why cuz it wasnt polished! but on my car its still beading like krazy after 2 /12 months

[@james8156]

Question on how long to wait to apply wax after jet seal?

[@WaxMode]

Chemical Guys recommends a 12 hour cure to allow Jet Seal to fully bond to the paint.

[@raylegend808]

Hi I just bought a BMW brand new I've only wash it twice, I was looking at your videos and I wanted to know what would you recommend as far as paint prep for that brand new car if you can give me the steps at appreciate it. Thanks

[@WaxMode]

Hey! Go ahead and feel the paint over when it's wet after you've washed it to feel for contamination, it should feel perfectly smooth. Or go over the paint after it's clean and dry with a thin plastic bag which helps you feel for potential contamination. For new cars many of them will pick up a ton of contamination on the trip over here, especially if they ship by rail or from the time they spend sitting on the lot at the dealership. The dealership is also a perfect place for paints to get absolutely hammered with swirls, all it takes is a bad wash session and the dealership washing bay is the principal culprit for instilling those types of defects, some of them quite nasty! So my plan of action for a new car is the same as the rest. Give it a good wash, check for contamination, clay if necessary, then inspect for the severity of swirls and scratches with a good light once the car is clean and dry. Then I grab the polisher and on a 2x2 foot test section I will determine how heavy of a polish or compound and the best type of pad (soft or firm) to tackle the defects around the rest of the car. Seal the paint afterwards with a sealant or wax and you're good to go!

[@raylegend808]

Ok, the paint feels pretty smooth. The car is white so its pretty hard to see the fine scratches or swirls on it if i have any. I dont feel the need for heavy polish. Which light polish would you recommend. Thanks

[@WaxMode]

Over the counter I recommend Meguiar's M205 or Ultimate Polish, these are the best finishing abrasives you can find at some local Advance Auto / Autozone / Walmarts. Other than that if you're looking at online sites I've been enjoying HD Polish+, Menzerna 3800, the new Jescar Finishing Polish is supposed to be really good as well I'm looking forward to try this out.

[@raylegend808]

Okay, thanks alot

[@behindthecamera4996]

Name a 100% non-abrasive liquid wax. Because i've been using a paste carnuba wax and i find it highly abrasive. And how to get swirls and scretches off the paint?

[@bekiro28]

can you use the bsd as a drying aid?

[@WaxMode]

Yes you can use it like this, I would probably designate a towel specifically for BSD because that towel can be impacted.

[@bekiro28]

@@WaxMode thanks for the reply big fan of your channel what you mean with impacted? can you explain

[@bekiro28]

@@WaxMode much appriciate for the valuable knowledge you have

[@starwarsfanforlife]

Have you ever tried Topcoat F11??

[@WaxMode]

Haven't tried out F11 yet, it's just too pricey and there are other coatings that I would want to get my hands on before something like F11. Wish they had the 2oz sample size available directly on their site for purchase, I would grab one from ebay but I know a lot of guys would reject my results if I can't guarantee the product is legitimate.

[@AlexanderHonsVonEber]

New guy here. Sorry can someone tell me what Lsp and Bsd stand for?

[@WaxMode]

LSP stands for "last step product" which is going to be our wax/sealant/coating, or in this specific case Brilliant Shine Detailer which is what BSD stands for. We throw acronyms around like crazy in the detailing world, a habit from hanging around the detailing forums.

[@AlexanderHonsVonEber]

Thanks yea I am ex-military so when I see an acronym I don't know I feel anxious! HAHA... Is a BSD then like a spray wax or something entirely different? Is it like Car Pro Reload? Sorry but your a wealth of information, have to ask!! Thanks again!

[@gufiaito69able]

William bsd is a product from sonax (brilliant shine detailer)

[@donscott6720]

How do you mix your IPA

[@WaxMode]

I use about a 15% total IPA mix with distilled water. However my recent tests with Klean Strip Prep-All has been very promising and may be a better substitute to IPA.

[@MAXIMILAN2QAT]

Great video :) as alawys

[@pdeblois1880]

I’d hate to have your water bill!