🔬 Beginner's Microscope buying Woes - and my Opinion | Amateur Microscopy

[@robertYTB78g]

Excellent video. I'm still using my Tascam 1500 student level microscope that I have had for the last 15 years, and really enjoying it. Mirror illumination is no problem, I just have a powerful led torch with a fine beam and a home made stand that I can adjust quickly and even get good oblique and 3d effects by placing it above the slide. What I pine for is the double comfortable wide eyepieces that I see on your microscope. I am tired of peering into just one, and I know from using a terrestrial telescope vs binoculars just how much more immersive my binoculars are. I have a Swift microscope camera fitted to my microscope, and this has been a massive improvement for me , as I can keep images and videos of what I have seen, rather than losing them forever or until I can find that organism again. Also much more is observed on the video later that I didn't even see earlier. Now I'm tiring of swapping out my only eyepiece for the camera every time so I want a trinocular for sure. I wonder how much hassle it will be to get the cheaper trinocular options of not being able to see through the eyepieces and simultaneously view the image from the camera on my big screen?. Maybe the cheaper option is better? there are some suggestions online that microscopes that do allow simultaenous viewing maybe don't have bright enough illumination because light is shared between two paths? I don't know if this is true or not. Makes me concerned about getting strong enough illumination for my microscope too. Best I can find for my budget is an Amscope T490 and going with the 20W halogen, and only the lockdown and the thought of when it might ever get from the USA to NZ has kept my itchy finger off the "buy"button. Maybe this is just as well :)

[@lawriegraney9929]

These companies that produce the low priced microscopes also produce high priced microscopes. Where they keep the costs down is usually on the details. For example a mechanical stage isn't essential for an amateur scope; so the cheaper models don't have one, measuring increments on the focussing knobs are omitted from the cheaper scopes. These little details all add to the cost. I bought a Swift SW-150, which I am delighted with, at £56. Its optics are magnificent, the robust quality feel of the scope and moving parts gives a very good impression. the focussing is excellent on both the coarse and fine focus, there is good resistance and it feels of good quality and strong. The stage is made of metal and has metal stage clips to hold the slides. It doesn't have a mechanical stage, but that is not a problem for me. It has illumination from above and below and is of sound quality with dimming capability. It's all good. I am over the moon with the results I have been getting. I was going to buy a Brunel binocular micro with 20x mag and no lighting system, a second hand one, which would have cost me £20 more than this Swift SW-150, but I'm glad I got this. That said, I am, next month, going to get myself the Brunell MX1 binocular scope with 20x mag. Either that or I buy myself a camera for this one, but I only have about £80 to spend. I used to own a Brunel MX1 about 18 years ago and I sold it because I was going through a divorce at the time. I would like to replace it because it was a nice, solid, well-made scope with good optics. I would really like to buy a binocular scope similar to the one you have with the camera mount, but , for me, it boils down to money, I can't afford that of what you have got. The MX1 does come with a DSLR adapter ring for taking pics, and I am a pro photographer with Nikon equipment. Higher magnification objectives up to 2x, 4x and 6x with eyepieces of 10x, 15x, 20x , total mag of 120x, can be added to the MX1, but even Brunel says I will lose resolution as I increase magnification objecives and eye pieces. Well, I knew that already. The MX1 also can be lit from the bottom with an extra accessory, not too expensive, Or I could even make my own lighting system. I find photo-frame glass makes a good stage to place a slide or a transparent, or semi-transparent sample. The stage plate it comes with is reversible, black one side, white the other, but there isn't a transparent stage plate for that model available; so I would need to improvise one. What do you think?

[@riktodar2304]

I got so much from this correspondence. I at last feel at ease at making my own choice from within the briar patch. Thank you.

[@jimzielinski946]

All great advice. I'd like to add a few things maybe for advanced hobbiests. Infinity optics are not new - they have been around from at least the 1940's. Image quality between infinity and traditional optics depends more on how the designs are implemented. The big makers moved to infinity optics for a few reasons. They claim they wanted to use larger diameter (fatter) lens designs to provide more design flexibility to provide more image quality. The big 4 companies used this move as an opportunity to build in custom patented proprietary screw threads to prevent the common practice even with researchers of mixing and matching objectives, there by locking users completely into their systems. I personally have relied on eBay to collect older research grade equipment at bargain prices but with having to accept the risks that go along with that approach. Keep in mind that a bargain price for any research grade equipment can be out of reach for anyone without a good job and a frugal lifestyle!

[@2omskwithlove]

One point, for microbe hunting, the stage controls are key. And the older olympus BH-2 is in a much much higher class that a new Optika TB 290. So this is a reason to get an older big four brand microscope

[@MicrobehunterMicroscopy]

Yes, I remember that with the bad microscope that I talked about, the mechanical stage was so badly made, that the slide sometimes slid beneath the clamp that was supposed to hold it (there was a space between the clamp and stage).

[@dimakowahl]

Greetings to all! Advice for both beginners and those with experience. Do not spare the money and buy two lenses, one 20x the other 60x. It is not necessary to buy two at once at the same time, if the opportunity does not allow, they are not cheap if you have an infinite system. Plan lenses are not cheap, but they are worth it! I myself recently bought one from Motik / Plan EC-H / 20x/, at a price of 181 euros. Trust me, it's worth it! Later, I will buy a Motik / Plan EC-H / 60x/, at a price of 277 euros.

[@israelramos7441]

The same goes for a lot of diferent things like power tools. Lots of "american" "german" or "japanese" tools are actually made in China, and that doesnt mean those are bad tools, as long as the manufacture quality standards are good enough, and that hapens for instance, when the brand has some warranty etc

[@hashif619]

I havs a doubt. If a person needs a microscope, how to suggest best objectives for him. Like for instance, if he uses different observation methods...as you know some are not capable of doing these and some are ok. So how to select the objectives easily... please advise as this is one of my many questions that i have asked but no response from you 😓

[@usernamemykel]

WOW!!!! You do the SAME THING I do when looking at reviews of Amazon products - start reviewing by looking at the worst reviews first! If I find a common problem with the product or the seller or manufacturer, and those reviews are recent, I'll deny the product a new home. Now, if I see that problems from older reviews are now no longer even mentioned, and if I see that the seller/manufacturer is responsive, that's a plus. What I really DON'T like to see is many 5* reviews, based upon a seller telling the buyer that if they rate the product 5*, they'll get free bonus products. That, quite frankly, pisses me off.

[@melvindwayne]

Great video; very good information. I'm looking for a beginners microscope, want to start with something around $350-$400 US dollars. Have had my eye on AmScope 40-2500x binocular that comes a 1.2mp, 3mp or 5mp camera (I would choose their 5mp camera), but this is binocular so one side would be used for cam leaving me with one-eye to see... I think that wouldn't look so good... I'm debating...I would really prefer a trinocular that comes with no camera, so I can use a phone mounted camera which would yield much higher-end images, and not tie up the visual. On the other hand, I would like something that fresh out-of-the-box can display on a PC screen or TV, and if I choose to go with something trinocular to use the cellphone or even a DSLR camera, it will not be as integrated with some of the software a manufacturer like AmScope offers with their little USB cam... The cell phone I'm not sure if you can connect directly to PC USB and use it as (camera-slave only) or perhaps all I would be limited to is record directly on the phone, which would look great as my flagship mobile device has 4K video and excellent focus, but probably can't integrate as easily the way their little USB cam would connect to PC and instantly display, no issue...My phone has a CAST to Screen/TV function, still, it is not as practical. Any advice or peripherals needed? recommendations ? , phone mounts for microscope, things I need to know such as if I'm using the 10X eye piece, and want to switch to the 25X eye pieces, what happens to the 3rd viewpiece that has the camera, does that need to change lens/focus, I am new to this.

[@tomstur119]

image quality wise and ability to record to a camera, how would your camera compare to a SWIFT SW380T ?

[@williamccjr]

I just recently purchased an AmScope T690C-PL (with "Infinity Plan Objectives") for $750. While I'm am able to see some pretty amazing microbes with it, I'm having trouble getting it properly setup/aligned/calibrated for Kohler Illumination. The image quality/resolution with the 40X (dry) and 100X (Spring/Oil) objectives just isn't on par with what I've seen from even standard achromatic objectives (and these are supposedly "Infinity Plan"). I'm having trouble focusing (fine focus) and getting clear contrast/definition, I'm also getting a fair amount of yellow & pink blurry chromatic aberration, which makes it almost impossible to fine focus and get clear images. The 4X and 10X objectives inherently produce better quality, clearer images, however, I'm still having trouble with that annoying yellow/pink chromatic aberration. When I first got this scope on the 8th the image quality wasn't too bad, however, it was obvious that the Kohler system wasn't aligned/setup properly. So I watched a video on how to set up Kohler Illumination, followed the steps, and it just made my issues worse. While the image quality/resolution (stock form, right out of the box) wasn't quite what I "thought" it should be for "Infinity Plan Objectives" (I'm basing this assumption on the image quality/resolution of your pics/videos, as well as others, who aren't even using Inf-Plan objectives, as I have nothing else to compare my scope to), it was still good enough to live with/use. Unfortunately, after botching the Kohler setup/alignment, the chromatic aberrations and inability to clearly fine-focus is a major issue for me now, as I can't effectively and efficiently do the job I need to do with this microscope (I'm doing R&D for a company that specializes in Compost Tea and Organic Non-GMO AG/Horticulture supplies. In a nutshell, I need to film and document the biology present in these products, as well as assist in formulating a new tea recipe) Apparently the tutorial was for a different microscope/brand, and wasn't the proper technique for this scope, which really annoys me because they look practically identical. Apparently AmScope is generally considered a "Budget" brand, even though they have "Biological/Compound models in the $3K+ range, not to mention their very specialized high contrast, polarizing and especially the EPI-Fluorescent systems that can cost upwards of $15K, how is that a "Budget Brand"? Regardless, if you have any advice for me at all, please let me know. During my research on finding a microscope, one of the most highly recommended brands/models was the Modic BA310, which at approx $1,500 is over twice the price of the AmScope T690C-PL, do you feel its worth the extra money? Would you recommend something else? Do you think the T690 I have is good enough, and I should just commit to and stick with that? As with other models in this price range, its very modular, the objectives, eyepieces and condenser are all upgradeable, so I could "In theory" completely change the functionality of this scope. I have a LOT of questions, and I have a LOT to learn, I could go on for a novel, but I'll spare you the misery, lol. Just think about what I've said, what my concerns are, and what I'm asking, then get back to me at your earliest convenience (preferably sooner than later, as I'm kinda on a time crunch to get the ball rolling on this. I could have gone to my local university and got this all squared away by a biologist that my friend knows, unfortunately due to the COVID-19 crisis this won't be possible for a while yet, so my options are very limited here, not many people are experienced with microscopy, so I'm reaching my digital hand out as far as I can to get the help/advice I need. Thanks for all the wonderful content you share, your labor of love mirrors my own, Let's go on a voyage of discovery into the microverse and share our findings with each other. Thanks again for your time, take care/stay healthy, and I eagerly await your response.

[@banksy50]

Suggest you go to the Microbehunter forum and ask there.

[@williamccjr]

@@banksy50 Yeah, that's probably my best option, trying to get information from YT comments is completely hit or miss, usually miss, but I digress. It's looking like we'll be returning the T690 anyway, having some trouble with the Kohler system and subsequent chromatic aberrations. AmScope seems to have a pretty good reputation for good customer service, so we'll just have to see how they handle this situation. Honestly, I want a Motic BA310 over the AmScope anyway, tried & true quality craftsmanship with known excellent customer service. So I might just have to return/refund the T690, and drop an extra $800 to get a BA310. At approx $1,500 their not exactly cheap, however, that money doesn't just buy a very well designed/built scope with excellent quality optics, it buys me piece of mind knowing that I can rely on it to properly perform/function for decades to come.

[@BHFWaterloo]

It’s the Kohler illumination. The standard halogen is not like that even from AmScope. It is bright. White

[@cindyrittenhouse9042]

Do you have a video that explains how to take pictures with your phone? Also what type is good for a beginner at a low cost. I need a microscope to check my Monarch butterflies (new hobby) for a common bacterial infection.

[@tiedupsmurf]

I have a cheap Telmu from China, cost 80 pounds, and I love it. I bought it from Amazon, I will upgrade to a €150 model and that's it. I like your channel O

[@stephen6whitehead398]

I collect and use microscopes!!And all mine have been bought off ebay!!You take a chance!But i find look carefully at the photo's,read the description,generally there pretty accurate'.I go on the photo's;If it looks clean"and rust free"it's generally okay!!But i have come a cropper sometimes and theyv'e turned out to be junk!!But doesn't happen often"Seller's on ebay are generally very honest in their descriptions"but check their seller ratings'the higher their no;the better they are!!I always go for the cheaper end of prices""and usually been very pleasently surprised when i recieved them to find they are indeed perfect in operation!!!But i go for the older research types::such as G&S,VICKERS,CTS,NIKON,OLYMPUS,LEITZ!!!and there are others:generally stick to those brands you won't go far wrong!!The mechanicals on these scopes are heavy duty:old school engineering"everything metal"no plastic anywhere!!!And yes the optics may be dusty when you use them"either clean them"or this is where china comes in'replace the dusty optics with brand new china made ones::Their always good quality optics and veiws through them are very nice!!!

[@jonathanbmBen-Menachem]

Achromatic vs plan objectives: Do you think the investments justifies itself ... are achromatic objectives enough for high school students/1st. year university student ? Thanks

[@faisalbhatti8017]

What is meaning of biological compound microscope 40x-1000x means. Is it good for looking at human sperms at home?

[@lunam7249]

You will see them tiny and swimming but not thier surface or inside....light microscope resolution stops around 1500 to 2000x...so you will see surface but not insides...using dies or tinting colors helps clarity

[@usernamemykel]

Oliver, please explain what is meant by "infinity system microscope", thank you.

[@sacafoto]

Hi! What is your opinion on the SVBONY SV601? It has some good characteristics.

[@davidtalukdar]

Please make a video tutorial on microscopic photography and videography..

[@usernamemykel]

Oliver, please assist this subscriber. Because of your videos, I retrieved my Amscope SE306R-PZ-LED from storage, and attempted to use it. The batteries (original when I bought the scope in 2018) were dead, but did not leak. I put fresh batteries in, but no lights (top or understage) would come on, the dimmer switch accomplishing nothing. I plugged in voltage from a transformer (couldn't find the original), and though the green "charging" light by the dimmer turned on, I still had no lights at all. Your thoughts, please? THANK YOU!

[@usernamemykel]

Oliver - please disregard - I got it working. Very interesting - I threw away the dead batteries, (which I later realized were rechargeables, but beyond resuscitation). I replaced them with fresh non-rechargeable batteries, and plugged in the charger. That's when the green "charging" light went on, but neither light would work. It is now 2:23 in the morning, having discovered that the lights work, seemingly ONLY when RECHARGEABLE batteries are in the unit, and, I can use the scope with just the batteries and not the charger. Kind of weird that the lighting system didn't work with fresh regular batteries, but, hey, there are "mysteries" in life, ya?

[@PPMOCRG]

My first microscope was a gift to me as a child in the early 1970’s. I loved it. I just got a SW380T and it’s a nice scope. I have my Nikon Z6 attached for photos. Having a great time! I see no quality issues with my scope and I’m very happy with it.

[@redcowcat8705]

Does amazon have warranty?

[@ads3453]

Are Zeiss primo star microscopes good mid tier microscopes ?

[@MicrobehunterMicroscopy]

They are already more than mid-range. Most hobby microscopists don't even have those, also a question of cost.

[@Ranveer_Singh_Kahani]

If i have DIC microscope lens...i dont have to do gram staining + -?

[@MicrobehunterMicroscopy]

Gram staining is there to help determine if bacteria are gram + or gram - and DIC can not replace this.

[@massimo790]

Oliver you're the best!

[@marcio3857]

I am a beginner I want to see atoms

[@woodworkerroyer8497]

I just got a Nikon S series a couple weeks ago on ebay. Used, with trinocular head and everything works great except the condenser raising knob (the grease died and is now just a mess of sticky goop). Anyway, pretty good buy for $80 shipped! The only issue was that it was so dirty when I got it that I wasn't sure I could ever even get it clean myself. But even if I took it to a professional and spent $400 on a good cleaning, it would STILL be cheaper than getting a new scope with anywhere near the same features, much less the same quality.

[@luigiolivobozzano5944]

How can I make 3D imaging at home?

[@mikb4372]

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[@خالدعبدالحميد-ص4ح]

نتمنى لو يوجد ترجمه بالعربيه

[@mikb4372]

صعبي يا رفيق

[@shyamjiverma3966]

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