BenQ HT1085ST DLP Projector No Light

This BenQ HT1085ST DLP Projector was sent it after the owner was unable to get the lamp to light. The color wheel was cleaned but the lamp would not ignite after the fact. A new lamp was tried to rule that out but it made no difference. The issue ended up being the color wheel sensor connector. The solder had pulled free and was no longer recognizing the index mark. I suspect the error lights at the beginning indicate a color wheel failure rather than a lamp failure. Being that I don't have a service manual for this one, I did not want to assume it was the same as the W1070 but in retrospect, I probably can. Next time I get an HT1085ST, I will use the W1070 service manual and see how close it is.
Also, I decided to try a slightly different format for the video. I went a little more stream of thought. I figured it might be interesting or helpful to see where I start and where I end up in my diagnosis and how I get there. My initial thought of the ballast or power supply ended up being entirely incorrect, but I did find my way to the problem so maybe this will help others with their own troubleshooting methodology.
Here is the lamp for the HT1085. 5J.J7L05.001www.purelandsupply.com/benq-l...

[@chessguru900]

It appears as though, someone's been at it already otherwise the light sensor not a moving part, should not have been in need of soldering. In the end Frankie the expert managed to remedy that all the same. Honest and relentless work. The lamp part numbers: 5J.J7L05.001 / 5J.J9H05.001

[@FixitFrank]

You have good eyes! I think the owner might have had that happen when he replaced the CW. That said, the solder from BenQ was pretty weak.

[@user-gs7hj6sr2p]

Merci pour cette vidéo, j'ai pu grâce à vous réparer mon benq w2000 😊

[@retroman1215]

I really enjoy your videos as you explain while you are fixing it by showing and explaining every step as I am a tech kinda person also...but not to the level of what you do...keep up the great videos as they are very informative. 😊👍

[@FixitFrank]

Thanks man! Its all just repetition. I have no formal training on projector repair. I have a heavy AV repair background(amps, stereos, display devices, industrial controls etc) so I figured why not? Every unit I take apart and put back together adds a little more experience. I always figure there is someone out there who knows more than me but I don't see them sharing the info online so I will do that! I don't have a number but I know these vids are helping people fix their own gear which is really my end goal of all of this. The internet started out as a way to freely share information and kind of level the playing field for everyone. It has definitely lost that direction but at least with KZbin I can give back to that a little.

[@retroman1215]

I did the same with old equipment and learned all on my own and looked up things we I needed to..got a few shocks aling the way also.. Hehe...but as you said a person learns along the way...and I am glad I did over all these decades...😊👌

[@FixitFrank]

@@retroman1215 One of my favorite things about doing this channel is meeting all of the other great techs out there. Locally its hard to meet other people who are into this stuff and well versed at repairing/maintaining. Years ago I had a retail repair shop and knew a small network of servicers but this channel has expanded it to world wide which is awesome. I regularly talk to folks from all over the globe about repairs and I love it. Thanks for watching my vids and hanging out!

[@retroman1215]

@@FixitFrank You are welcome and I will keep watching as I am subscribed already...😊👌

[@jf5-mars334]

I have the ecxat same issue , now I know what to do , ty

[@bronco9973]

Mucho thanks again for showing this!

[@FixitFrank]

My pleasure!

[@Kujokouklos]

Oh man I am going to enjoy this one! Frank I have a Vankyo V630 in my hands for testing, it is the most amazing cheap 1080p projector as far as lumens and picture quality, BUTit sucks in games. Lag is so atrocious the thing looks like it is missing frames. I will post a video about it in the next days! Thanks for sharing man!

[@FixitFrank]

I've heard that about those. The 630 was popular on r/projectors comment threads when I posted there. Someone got ahold of the actual manufacturer and got a copy of the specs. You might want to check for that thread for your video. They had some interesting info on the 630.

[@Kujokouklos]

@@FixitFrank Thanks Frank! I will. Also contacted the manufacturer and they told me to send them a small video clip so they can see what I mean. I did. But, I really have no hopes for fixing that. It is a real shame though, V630 would have been AMAZING if not for that problem. I will make a video in the next days.

[@Anya-Prime]

Hey, this might be a stretch, but I have one of these ht1085 projectors that I got in rough shape used. I changed the lamp, cleaned it a bit, and it worked great for a while. Then it started shutting off unless there was some weight on the top door. I opened it up and tore everything down, cleaned out a bunch of dust from the fans, checked all the parts, put it back together (still have two spare screws I can’t find a place for - two black countersunk philips screws if you happen to know where they go), and then realized it was the door/safety/interlock switch all along. Then I proceeded to try and jiggle it or jam it in place, and it was either already broken or I managed to finally snap off some piece. All the plastic is aged and brittle on this thing and I have a couple snapped off pieces of the case that didn’t go back in as well. Spent two+ hours opening and putting it back together and then broke the part that was the real problem. Is this even conceivably a part I can buy, or should I just solder the little jumper pins or switch contacts inside so they stay closed? Again maybe this is a stretch asking for advice on a year old video from a hobbyist who has no obligation to help me, but I thought it was worth a try. My back still hurts from craning over this dusty piece of junk and I don’t want to have to tear it down again. Speaking of, I wonder if I can get a replacement rubber foot for it as well since mine never came with one attached. If anyone can help, I greatly appreciate it in advance.

[@FixitFrank]

As the hobbyist with the year old video, I am stoked to help you! Anyone who takes a stab is at least entitled to some replies in my opinion :) 1. The 2 screws should be for screwing the HDMI connectors into the back plate. Not required but you want them in place if possible. 2. I would take it apart one more time. You could just solder the contacts together, but I found it a lot easier to merely cut the red/black wires and connect them where they plug into the power supply. imgur.com/1DCOq4X You could even solder a jumper(use a piece of that red or black wire so the size is adequate) across the proper pins on that connector. I wouldn't bother replacing the switch or making it work. That switch is an idiot switch to prevent people who aren't thinking from hurting themselves by firing up that lamp with the door off. I have a few projectors that I bypassed the door switches on. Just one less thing to go wrong... I hate to send you back into it one more time, but I suspect this is the last. Or, wad up some foil and jam it down into the switch(don't do this. It was a bad attempt at humor). As far as the foot, thats going to be tough to find new or for sale but if you want to email me(on the about tab) later this week(Im on vacation until Wed) I can look in my scrap pile to see if I have one.

[@Anya-Prime]

@@FixitFrank Hi, and thank you very much for replying. This is perfect and I don’t know why I didn’t think of just jumping the actual wires rather than trying to jerryrig a jammed switch like the intended design. The joke was great and is actually sort of how I broke it, trying to wedge a piece of plastic in there so it would contact. I assume the bottom of the switch sat on a tiny plastic ledge that has been through a couple hundred thermal cycles at this point. It’s like trying to disassemble a gingerbread house without leaving crumbs everywhere. Totally agree that the switch is there to cover the manufacturer’s ass in case someone stick their fingers in the ballast while it’s running. I have no problem removing it and I think this projector’s next home will be an electronics recycler or I’ll sell it for parts eventually. I can definitely take it apart again - I should be able to a lot quicker this time around. Funny story - when I was putting it together I panicked at one point because I forgot that the speaker plugged into the main board *after* I bolted it down. Thought I missed something and the only pictures I could find online didn’t have pins there. Felt like an idiot taking all the way apart to see if I tucked a wire in the wrong place before I saw the speaker sitting on the table in front of me. Side note, the two screws are not for the HDMI ports - those are dark bronze-ish countersunk screws and are shorter than the black ones. I’ll have to check all the fans and parts to see if I missed some screws there. Thanks though. And I really appreciate the offer for the rubber leg. I was just planning on going back to the little stack of rubber I was using, but I’ll send an email in case I can make this projector just a tiny bit nicer. I’ve got a weird setup in an attic with a sloping ceiling so I have it really close to the ground in a tv stand and it does like to lose aim if I bump the stand. Still fit a 100” screen in there at an ~11’ throw and it looks awesome when it works. Maybe I’ll actually try disassembling the optics part of it this time and fully cleaning out the lens stack. Still getting some “bokeh” out of focus dust particles, although they’re only noticeable on a white screen. Do you think this would be worthwhile? Sorry for the long comment - you’ve helped enough and my remaining questions and anecdotes aren’t important. Niche communities like this are some of the nicest places. Enjoy your vacation!

[@FixitFrank]

@@Anya-Prime No worries at all. I enjoy knowing people can repair their gear with this info. I'm no one special, I just have made enough mistakes to know what not to do ;) If those screws are coarse/helical thread, check the RCA connectors. The only countersunk screws in that unit that I can recall are the HDMI and the RCA's. I'd rather give you a rubber foot than have it end up in the trash. The main reason I do all of this is to keep more toxic stuff out of the ground. Secondly to keep money in peoples pockets. I would clean the optics if you have the opportunity. cleaning the surface of the DMD should solve your situation. Granted its a less is more thing. You don't want to take every bit of glass out. I would remove the DMD(I have some videos) and clean the surface of that. Once the DMD is clean, you should be fine. As a fellow "wordy" person, I don't mind long comments at all. I actually enjoy them. One thing I always here is that I am never at a shortage of words. Sure you can get the point across with less words, but its not as much fun and no where near as interesting. The more instances I learn about how folks use their projectors, I can learn more about to keep them running. I like the knee-wall ceiling method. Depending where you are, it probably helps with heat in the winter. I know my HT1075 keeps my bedroom plenty warm. Please feel free or even invited to email me and I can see what I have for the foot. I have a bunch of scrap benqs and I can picture the foot on a scrapped 1075 chassis so I can throw in the mail without issue. Talk to you soon!

[@Anya-Prime]

@@FixitFrank That’s precisely it! I’d rather type a paragraph than be misunderstood. I’m also known for my inability to be concise. Thanks again. Oh and I have no clue how I pulled out 4 countersunk screws out of this thing. I think I’m the first to take it apart, so I can’t imagine they were replaced. I’ll report back if I figure it out this evening when I go back in there. I think I will attempt taking apart the optics. I am wondering why you think it may be the DMD - I would think if the DMD had specs of dust they would show at any focus since the DMD is effectively the pixel grid and possibly(?) a focal point of the lens. That’s why I thought lens - I have an old canon lens that exhibits similar effects from the irreversible fungus damage it had. I’ll rewatch the video where you take that part apart for reference. I went in a little blind the first time - you could call it exploratory surgery. Side note, can you believe they’re using DMD technology for adaptive headlamps? Audi straps two DMD projectors on the front of a car and I can’t get a stationary movie projector to not wobble when I walk by it. That may be more of an indictment of this 100+ year old house than it is the projector, to be fair. And you’re right, that room is quite nice in this north east cold right now. My cat loves to sleep by the exhaust fan. Also, the biggest downside of mounting it low is that it effectively has to be in line with the bottom of the screen to be within range of the optical keystone correction. It’s a terrible photo, but here’s how I had it set up: imgur.com/a/j91kVWy I’ve since added a receiver and speakers and tidied up, so it’s a bit different once I put it back.

[@Anya-Prime]

@@FixitFrank So I opened it up and modified the door switch with a jumper, and that worked great. Then I opened the optics and cleaned the DMD and unfortunately I’m not sure it’s an improvement. Maybe my glasses cleaning cloth wasn’t clean enough. I think it has a glass cover, but is it possible to damage the DMD mirrors directly this way? There’s also still remaining dust and it looks different and more pinpoint now. But now on reassembly it’s also not displaying anything but a black screen on power up. Happily turns on, lamp works, but no input, no menu, and it doesn’t even let me shut it off with the buttons. Hopefully I didn’t damage one of the boards or something in the DMD/color wheel. Maybe the inputs board isn’t connected right or one of the big pin arrays is bent? Guess it’s back to the repair table. I forgot how frustrating it can be to troubleshoot electronics. Sorry for the venting, I haven’t lost hope that I forgot something easy and silly that will fix this new issue. I’ll check the obvious culprits and start checking components. Regardless, thanks again for the help and advice!

[@preditor888]

Great Video, very interesting. Just joined the club. keep up the good work. Schweizman

[@FixitFrank]

Thank you! Welcome aboard! I'm glad you enjoyed the videos

[@ekimbrough1413]

Thanks Frank! U R swell!

[@Kujokouklos]

Oh, new camera position is really nice. Me likes!

[@FixitFrank]

Thank you!! I can actually work without having to hug the tripod anymore!

[@drew9453]

Hey Frank... I know you are working on a BenQ projector, but it seems to have very similar parts and functions as my Viewsonic projector. I was also having an issue with what seems to be the color wheel. I recently replaced both the lamp and the color wheel, directly from Viewsonic. Everything was carefully and properly put back together, although the lamp doesn't seem to want to turn on. I can hear the color wheel start to turn when I power it on, then it stops. I get a red lamp error light, then after a couple of minutes it tries to spin the color wheel again then powers off. I made sure the ribbon cord was the correct way. I even tried switching the color wheel sensor out for one on one of the other color wheels and it was still doing the same thing. I have changed my color wheel out before and it worked perfectly fine again after doing so. This time around it just keeps giving me the lamp error. One major difference between changing the lamp and color wheel this time was after the bulb exploded. Could that have caused a short somewhere in the lamp connectors and possible have to replace the lamp connector? Are there any suggestion you can give me as to what else could be causing it to do this?

[@FixitFrank]

This is all speculation since I dont have it in front of me, but the ballast would be my next place to check. Exploding lamps can jam the lamp blower fan and cause ballast damage. make sure your blower fan is okay and not jammed and then you may want to pull the ballast and test it. look for the ballast check video I have for that. doubtful its the lamp connector unless you can see physical damage.

[@drew9453]

@@FixitFrank I appreciate the response! I will check that next.

[@littlegeniusplayschool459]

Good job

[@FixitFrank]

Thank you! I was happy with this one. I like it when they are solid issues to resolve.

[@rowdieembry9562]

I love your video, it's so helpful! Thank you for your help. How do I send you my projector for you to fix it? I think that i have a bad color wheel. Mine does not spin when we turn it on. Is it supposed to?

[@FixitFrank]

Yes it definitely should spin up. If you get a lamp error on the LEDs and no color wheel starting, it's probably the color wheel. I list a email on the about page.

[@theexperience6360]

I love the content which you covered about benq projector. I have an benq mx720 I am having lamp error . I did what you did to try solving the problem. But my colour wheel is spinning quite well when I power the projector on the power wheel spins all the time..but I am still having the lamp error . Can you help me please !

[@FixitFrank]

I have a dumb question. How is the lamp? Was it replaced recently and if so, where did you get it? You would be amazed at how many issues end up being a poor quality lamps assembly.

[@b139b]

Thank you for all the great videos! I have a problem with a W1070. No light, and Power and Lamp LEDs are acting like in your video. I have measured the 385Volts ballast input (present) , but no output on lamp socket. (also tried another ballast). The 14 and 3.3V at J30 are ok. There are pulses from the color wheel and i can hear that pip pip noise when it starts and runs for a while. Three of the fans are running, have DC voltage and pulses on the brown wire. The Blowerfan3 on J38 is NOT running. (ok on external power). There are no voltages on the connectors exept 3,3V on the yellow wire. No 12V on common point L134/C1050/C1048. It is not easy to make measurements on U112, but is U112 a known error on the W1070? Thank you.

[@FixitFrank]

U112 is not known to me personally as a common failure but I have seen those fan control ICs fail in other model DLP projectors. For testing, you could try jumping another fans, 12v to the blower fan's 12v input. I would de-pin the wire and connect it that way as to bypass U112. If the fan status wire(3.3v) goes low to 0.02 or so, that will tell you that U112 is not responding properly. The only thing that could also be an issue is the TI chip that controls U112. If that isn't working, you might have to cheat and use another fans VCC to drive the blower. You wont hur't anything but you may have issue with high altitude mode. The fan control ICs can drive a pretty hefty load so 2 fans on one chip will be OK. Just not ideal. Hopefully it's just the fan chip.

[@b139b]

@@FixitFrank Thank you for your reply. I de-pinned the red wire from J38 and connected it to grey J39. Now I got pulses from yellow J38 so I guess the fan must be running (?) but no lamp goes on. Same Led indication. Solid green and solid red. I have also checked that pin 3+4 on U112 and U111 have the same voltages 0.28V when on. All pins are connected correct to U112 and there is 12V on pin2. What could I check now? Thank you

[@FixitFrank]

Have you found the service manual? I only ask it is shows the connections for the fan status flags and fan speed control. One method I use to determine where the issue is located(when I am unable to find a clear path) is to measure resistance from a known good point and compare it to the questionable point. In your case, I would measure resistance between the fan sense wire connection(J38) and ground, and then compare that to another fan sense wire that is working. I would unplug the fans in both cases and measure on the mainboard. You may find a difference in the resistance. Then you can start to trace back from the sense connection until you find where the resistance is more similar to the good side. Then check the last component you passed as you worked your way down the circuit. There is a chance you have a bad mainboard(just a warning). I believe the fans report via some small chips that invert the signal(low to high logic converter I think) but then they go right to the main DDP4420(4421?) Texas instruments chip. Here is the service manual with schematic. drive.google.com/file/d/1NQhBoO1IqMX_Zdnt27J-1B_L-BbONpnP/view?usp=sharing

[@b139b]

@@FixitFrank Thank you for your reply and for the service manual! I have compared the signals around U112 and U111 and they are the same, except U112 pin1=0 The red wire J38 was connected to another output. Seems to me that U112 is part of the problem. I have also measured the pulses from the color wheel. Are pulses of 0.8V normal values? Thank you.

[@lk4wc]

Hi Frank. I have a W1070 that I can't get to start up. I recently replaced the globe as I thought this was the issue. After reassembling and plugging it into the mains I get "POWER" indicator in solid RED and thats it. I have found in a few forums that tech advice from BENQ is that a new board is required. Have your come across this and could I fix it by replacing faulty components on either the ballast or the power supply board? Thankyou for all your awesome videos. Great indepth content.

[@FixitFrank]

Hi Luke, If the power led comes on then that is a good sign. however if you get no response from the buttons, that may be a power problem on the mainboard. The ballast is probably fine. The main power supply would be suspect as would the mainboard itself. Those mainboards are not that expensive to buy used(pulled from good projectors) and would likely be your best option. Otherwise you would want to start investigating the PMD1000 IC on the board to see if that failed. I have seen that as a common failure point on the mainboard. Replacing it requires SMD soldering though which I know isn't exactly a household staple. How are you with a multimeter? You can check a few points to see what's going on. You tried the remote as well correct? Just in case its the button itself?

[@carlos82perez]

Hi there. I have a 2 1/2 year old epson 2150. All the sudden will not kick on and fans on high speed mode as well as lamp and temp orange light on. I’ve replaced the lamp with oem and still no luck. Any pointers would be appreciated! TIA Btw, awesome content. Very informative videos.

[@FixitFrank]

Hi Carlos, That kind of sounds like a fan problem or a temperature sensor problem. Epson's are tough as I am not privy to their service info. I can only figure it out as I go. I've heard of this when the fan near the lamp goes bad. Sometimes its just the chip inside the fan that reports the fan status. The fan will spin but the projector can't tell and errors out. There is also the chance of debris/insects getting into the fans and jamming them. The torque is very low and easy to stall the fans. There tend to be at least 3 fans in Epson, sometimes up to 5. Many are the squirrel cage type/blower fans. I have a few videos on checking fans and how they can act that might help. I've also heard of the temperature sensors going bad. The little thermistor boards near the ballast/power supply. I never experienced it myself but I would probably check there if it were me. That is weird that it happened right out of warranty. It might be worth a call to Epson anyway in case there is something like a firmware update or other option to get things made right. 2.5 years is way too new for a projector to go bad from normal use.

[@carlos82perez]

@@FixitFrank thanks for the quick response. Cleaned out fans as you stated. There was quite a bit of dust but all were spinning freely. I plugged back in and it fired up. Only problem is now I have a green screen 😒 and some distortion lines. Called epson but unfortunately I’m out of warranty, just expired 3 month’s ago. They offered 30% off towards new unit. I declined. Is it worth fixing at this point? TIA.

[@LeonTopiltzin]

Hi there, had similar issues to another video of this projector where color was flickering so followed your directions in your other video, put it back together and projector didn´t light up at all and now lights below ballast on board are red,yellow,green instead of green. Any suggestions of things to check I might have messed up? I havent taken it back apart to see if color wheel sensor connector is messed up as in this one but on initial inspection, while still in it looks okay.

[@FixitFrank]

Check the alignment of the low voltage pins into the mainboard. It sounds like you might be off by one position. That is super easy to happen.

[@LeonTopiltzin]

Ah its okay now, but even though i cleaned off sensor, its blue for a second then starts flickering colors again for a bit then shuts off. back to square 1 ugh. i definitely tried to ensure i went at color wheel sensor quite a bit with a q-tip. maybe something is loose or sensor is actually bad? originally lamp needed to be replaced, i did that and then this started.

[@FixitFrank]

Is the color wheel cable upside down by chance? It also may be a bad wheel. I have seen the sensor wires break at the solder point.

[@davidm2113]

i have a benq w100 projector worked fine last time i used it i keep it clean from dust build up and so on i powered it up tonight the bulb comes on for a 5 seconds then goes off when the fans kick in what do you recon the problem is with it many thanks

[@FixitFrank]

check your color wheel sensor and any wires you disconnected and reconnected. If it worked before and you just cleaned it, then something isn't connected or aligned properly. I have had a few where I had to take it apart 2-3x before I got it right so dont be too frustrated. Or if you put a new lamp in, make sure it has the good UV/IR lens.

[@muhammadsaadman1174]

Hey, sent you an email about a uhd50, I accidentally scratched the lens, was wondering if you have any thoughts on it. Thanks!

[@FixitFrank]

Just replied! Hope it helps you out.

[@igorkmn8566]

Hi. What if all indicators tell it works fine but the projector actually doesn’t? No picture after lamp replacement (previous one exploded). 1080st

[@FixitFrank]

Hi Igor, That could be a ballast. If the old lamp exploded it might have damaged the ballast. You would need to measure the high voltage into the ballast and the TTL controls to know for sure.

[@davidtyus1323]

Frank I had the over heating issue with my benq 1085 st- I disasemmbled it and cleaned the fans and couldn't get it to power up again. Is it time for a new pwr module?

[@FixitFrank]

Make sure the lamp cover is back on and that all of the wires are plugged in. If it was powering up before you took it apart, go back over everything and I think you will find the missing bit. I doubt you need a power supply. the number of times I have ended up with the same thing you did and then found that I forgot a wire are too many to count.

[@Quaddragon]

Anyway I could get you to fix my projector? If I turn the brightness down or put the projector in Eco mode I get a lot of flickering. Also the Fans make a bit of baring noise when first turned on but eventually that goes away.

[@FixitFrank]

I'd be suspect of the lamp. If it isn't an Osram bulb inside it might not be the right bulb. flickering in Eco mode tends to mean the arc points in the bulb either have scale on them or that the bulb is rated for a much higher powered ballast. How many hours are on the lamp and how many of them are in standard mode versus eco? One suggestion I give to people is to put it into standard or bright mode for a few hours and burn off the scale on the arc points. Then once it goes back into eco, the arc tips are clean and the arc will sustain nicely.

[@Quaddragon]

@@FixitFrank The bulb is fairly new. It has 1623 hours on it now. All on standard because Eco was flickering out of the box. The old bulb did the same thing. I got the projector as a refurbished model direct from BenQ. The projector is a BenQ TK800M. This problem has existed since I got the unit. Here is a link to the replacement bulb that I put in it. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MPSYR4T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[@431401566]

Hi FixitFrank, I have a benq mx764. When I plug the power cord in the red power light will light up for about 15 seconds and then go out. The green start button will stay light but does not start anything. Nothing runs light, color wheel or fans. Any suggestions? Thanks

[@FixitFrank]

What you are describing kind of sounds like a panel lock. www.projectorcentral.com/pdf/projector_manual_6411.pdf page 36. However power should still work. There is a chance it's a mainboard problem. Did anything happen before this started?

[@431401566]

Before it stopped working at times it would have horizontal lines and I could tap the projector and they would go away. When I plug it in with the top off on mainboard the power button red light stays on for 20 seconds then goes off. A slow flash on a green light at the back left on the mainboard and goes off after 25 seconds. The two power button green lights on the motherboard stay on.

[@FixitFrank]

ahh. you might have damaged the mainboard (worse case). hot plugging the DMD board can cause issues. That said, I would take the mainboard out and reseat it and make sure its in securely and that the screws are in the right spots. If nothing changes then the mainboard might have failed.

[@kevinduprey9326]

Hey Frank, question on bulbs and lumens output. Ive noticed some projectors use the exact identical bulb yet will be 2700, 3000, 3200 lumens. Example would be a infocus in14 or in24 or in30 which all have same lamp installed. Power supplies look the same but maybe im missing something ? keep up good work ...

[@FixitFrank]

Yo Kevin! Very good question. I notice that a lot myself. I don't know the official reason, but what I have come to find is that the way the light is handled inside is different. Lumens is a weird measurement. Personally I think its not much more than marketing wank. No one watches white pictures on their screen. Lumens is a measurement average of a white screen at one meter away and one meter squared. You usually measure 9 points (3 top, middle and bottom) then you average those Lux(candlepower) readings. Lately I have seen more listings with "color lumens" where they measure each raw color for lumens and then average that. It's a little more realistic of a reading but even so, without taking into account ambient light, contrast ratios and other things, you are not really getting a truly useful measurement in lumens(in my opinion). One projector might have a lower contrast ratio but higher lumen rating where as the other model has a higher contrast and lower lumen rating. It can be also due to the color wheel type, the length, size of the optical path among other things. One model Epson lamp has at least a dozen different lumen ratings across all the models it works in. Basically you can attribute it to the differences in the way the light is processed and focused inside the projector and the type of lens they use. Someday I hope an actual projector design engineer or technician will see these videos and I can bounce some questions off them. I have talked to engineers at both Osram and Signify/Philips so I know those guys are out there. Hope that makes sense! Also, if you run across any dual lamp panasonics that take ET-LAD60's let me know! Thanks again man!

[@kevinduprey9326]

@@FixitFrank .. Thanks for input. I have another strange question for you. I recently had a optoma tx779 with bad dlp chip. I had a good sharp d2710x chip that i swapped in and it worked ? It was different part number but it looked same and both were 2700 lumens with similar specs all around. Did i get lucky ? is this safe in long run? Thanks for heads up on those dual bulbs , none currently but i get new stuff in all the time. I also have 500+ parts models on hand , should you need a part unavailable or only in china. Keep in mind that most of my inventory is 5 to 15 years old on average. I obtain pallets from electronic salvage companies who consign them for coporations who upgrade equipment. On a pallet of 40 projectors, about 70% is operable or fixable and remaining are saved for parts on future purchases. You are a blessing to me with amazing detailed videos. Its feels good to be able to sell projectors to people who otherwise couldnt afford one.

[@FixitFrank]

@@kevinduprey9326 You were kind of lucky but what you did was totally fine. Many dlp chips use different part numbers(sold to Acer, sold to Coretronic) but they are the same resolution which is all that really matters. I have used different resolution chips to test projectors before ordering the right chip. I put a 1024x768 into a 1920x1080 to make sure it was worth buying the replacement. You are 100 % safe and that unit should run fine. I'll keep you in mind for parts. 5-15 is about my normal vintage for projectors. I don't see new ones under warranty. Honestly you and I have a pretty parallel existence in that regard. I am not fortunate enough to get pallets of wonderful repairs, but I also like to help folks get projectors who normally would no have the option. I also noticed you take care of our feline friends :) My wife and I volunteer locally and just picked up 8 cats yesterday to drop off at the local rescue cat cafe. I know shipping can be a pain but if you ever get any units you want me to look at we can work something out. It could help me with content here and help you with free/really super cheap repairs. Keep it in mind and we can discuss via email if you want. Have a good one my friend!

[@FixitFrank]

Hey anyway I can get in touch with you?

[@kevinduprey9326]

@@FixitFrank .. email me at [e-mail] If you prefer , i could get you my cell number via email as well...Thanks, kevin

[@hiepnguyen749]

Ok, I am almost at a dead end. My W1070 does not want to be revived with simple replacements. I have the dreaded no light from the lamp and red LED flash on and remains red and shutdowns. I have tried to replace colour wheel, lamp and ballast in that order and leaving the new components in place. I then put back the original colour wheel, lamp with the new ballast with no success. I can hear and see the colour wheel spins up and then slows down. I do not see any sort of lamp flickering up at warm up before fully powering on that is why I thought maybe the ballast is defective. New ballast does no show any difference. I am about to give up but I may be able to pick up a used model for parts I will try to chop and change and see if I can get at least one working projector. If this is not successful, do you have any suggestions or tricks to test this projector and try to fix it? BTW, thank you for providing the pictures of the ballast wirings previously. Thank you

[@FixitFrank]

You're welcome and I'm sorry it is still not working. Do you have 380Vdc at the input to the ballast? Without proper PFC power to the ballast, this can happen. Also, is the ballast being sent the LampOn signal? If you read LampOn signal and you have 380Vdc at the ballast, then I agree the ballast is bad. If you have ~300vdc at the ballast input and a LampOn signal, the Main power supply has a problem.

[@hiepnguyen749]

@@FixitFrank Oh crappola. Now I have to consider the main PSU. I have to check how much for one if it is worth it to purchase another part. I already spent $150 or so on the 3 parts. I will check to see if the main PSU providing about 380Vdcc. Just check about $125 for the PSU. Ouch, this may be be sold for parts now. I might as well pick up a new 1080p or just put a bit more and get a 4K

[@TheMidosas]

Hey Frank, Whats the operating temp supposed to be? I have Benq w1070. Thank you

[@FixitFrank]

Hi Mido, I have found that between 140-170F is about normal. It depends on ambient temperature. You are referring to the exhaust temperature correct?

[@TheMidosas]

@@FixitFrank in the hidden menu, there is Temp #1 sometimes it reaches 300-320. On the normal mood. I was always using the high Altitude mood, as the projector used to get super hot and shutdown. Thanks to your videos I managed to find the reason and fixed it. :)

[@FixitFrank]

Oh wow. Yeah that's high. I bet your exhaust fan has the same issue that ht1075 had with blunted leading edges. Also make sure (if it's used or refurb) that some one didn't invert the fan direction.

[@TheMidosas]

@@FixitFrank thanks frank, will check and let you know. Regards.

[@MuhammadYaseen-vx5hw]

I have know it that DLP projectors have mysterious techniques than 3LCDs projectors.

[@FixitFrank]

They have a very particular way of working by fooling the eye with rapid color changes. I prefer the 3 DLP Sim2 projectors. One day I hope to afford one. Even a broken unit is worth repairing for me.

[@apparaolokareddy6501]

Benq mx806pst lamp suddenly off after sometime but butten light colour (green) not change any solution please tell me sir Send any vedio

[@FixitFrank]

I suspect a lamp is old or possibly not a real Osram bulb inside? I would check the service menu error codes while it is working. That will tell you more. Or try a new lamp first. If it still cuts out, then it could be ballast, color wheel but I think lamp.

[@TheLordstrider]

nice :)

[@FixitFrank]

😊

[@vajupala2774]

hi frank i have --OPTOMA=131-XE== i was trying ti set colour but i push the worng button now it me for sceruity code i tryed 1234==0000 but it not starting idont know whate to doooo please help me ==Thanks===???

[@FixitFrank]

If you set a code by mistake, that is a tough one. elektrotanya.com/showresult?what=optoma%20hd20&kategoria=&kat2=all I would read the service manual for the HD20-HD200 and see if the service menu is accessible and you can unlock it that way maybe. I have never dealt with this issue so I can't be sure of the best way to fix it. I would start here though. Try this: 1. Power up projector. 2. Press "Power", "Left", "Left" and “up" buttons on projector in order and you should get into the service menu. 3. Scroll down to Factory Reset and press enter. That may wipe the passcode.

[@seriouce4832]

My color wheel is not spinning so I am also not getting anything from the color wheel sensor. I think my color wheel is, what should I be reading from the 4 board pins that supply the color wheel through the flat cable? I do have a oscilloscope.

[@seriouce4832]

More info: My color wheel measures 3 ohms from common to each of the 3 other pins. Then the benq mh680 gets powered on, the green led starts blinking and will do so forever. After some time, the fans start spinning. The color wheel does not start spinning. Hence, the lamp will not turn on.

[@FixitFrank]

3 ohms is about right from the common to each leg. I'd see if you are getting any pulses (roughly 5-8v, 2ms per division). The wheel itself might be bad but I'd also check the sensor. I have seen the wires break at the board but still look connected. PMD1000 IC drives the color wheel but I'd check that sensor first.

[@seriouce4832]

@@FixitFrank Thank you Frank for your super swift and detailed response. I did manage to get the color wheel spinning again, I also do get signal from the color wheel sensor. The color wheel sensor is giving short pulses of around v_max=1.1V at 120 hz. The 1.1V is too low, right? In consequence the lamp led is blinking orange. On the 2nd pin to the ballast measures ~0V right after I switch on the projector (the one that you said should have 5V initially and then get down to ~ 3V to turn on the lamp).

[@emranjf2249]

hello sir I am from Bangladesh my projector benq ms500 dlp problem is sometime 30 /40/minute after turn off what is this problem please kindly tell me

[@FixitFrank]

Please check the manual, troubleshooting section. There is a chart with error codes that indicate the nature of the failure. I suspect you have overheating? Does the temp light come on when the projector turn off?

[@MRDHG100]

Maybe the power ic is the problem ... Is an top256yn... It's get hot and sometimes crash when is hot or only off the projector

[@davidtyus1323]

Frank have you ever seen vertical lines displayed at startup?

[@FixitFrank]

Hi David! I have but usually it is after the mainboard has been removed and re-installed. A bad connection between the DMD and mainboard can cause it. If you can share a picture of the issue, I can give you a better idea.

[@davidtyus1323]

I re-connected all and hit it with some contact cleaner. It looks like I will need to replace the fan next t o the lamp.

[@erikhilliard6914]

How do i contact you to send my 1085st in for repair?

[@FixitFrank]

Hi Erik, On the about page, about halfway down is a box to show my email. Contact me there and we can discuss. Thanks for watching my videos!

[@erikhilliard6914]

FixitFrank i went to about page but it doesnt show an email sir

[@FixitFrank]

@@erikhilliard6914 it should be under 'details'. I don't like to type it out here because the comments get scraped for email addresses for spammers. its [e-mail] Let me know when you get this so I can remove this comment.

[@DavidSmith-gy8fm]

Frank I have the same projector, lamp won’t fire. Not a techy guy, can I pay you to fix it ?

[@DavidSmith-gy8fm]

When I hit power it wants to kick on but doesn’t, then then the power light and power logo remains green but it’s off…?

[@FixitFrank]

Hi David, I do take on side work. I have an email listed on the about page if you want to contact me. I may not be able to reply until tonight or tomorrow(I tend to get to it on Saturday/Sunday). If you can, maybe record a short video of it trying to start and share it with me. Just in case I see/hear anything that indicates it would be a costly repair instead of a more reasonable repair.

[@DavidSmith-gy8fm]

What’s your email address? Thanks frank

[@FixitFrank]

its on the about page half way down. Says "contact" or something like that. I dont post it in comments because it gets picked up by spammers for some reason.

[@solimansharifi3162]

is this benq projector fine?

[@FixitFrank]

Yes sir! I am a big fan of this series. These are nice.

[@joegates96]

i have the same projector can i send you mine? it has the same issue lamp wont turn on. 😢

[@theexperience6360]

Fixitfrank Help me please

[@user-th9lh7iw8q]

Pleas nam fece book

[@FixitFrank]

I do not have FB, I am sorry.

[@apparaolokareddy6501]

Benq mx806pst lamp suddenly off after sometime but butten light colour (green) not change any solution please tell me sir Send any vedio

[@FixitFrank]

What have you checked?