Best Barn Door Hardware Comparison Test

Watch me totally destroy this wall with generic barn door hardware mounted as-is with no modifications. Then see how it stacks up to the Freedom Clamps from HardwarEvolution.
Freedom Clamps are the best way to mount sliding barn doors without making modifications to your wall or compromising your decor.
They do this by bolting directly to each stud ensuring that you have the safest install possible that will last as long as your door.
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[@ChristIsLord229]

Question for you, i botched one of my end holes, how its too big, and a tad off center causing the rail to sag a bit, which is throwing the rail slightly off level. What is the best way you feel to fix this?

[@NeaterNest]

Oh bummer, no worries, stuff happens right? Sounds like there may be 2 possible issues. I’m going to give you several remedies you can try depending on your exact situation, since I can’t see what you’re working with. If the hole is too big, the anchor won’t hold. You can get a dowel and some wood glue. Fill the hole then re-drill it carefully after the glue dries. You need to use a smaller bit this time, less than 1/4”. The hole being off center a small amount can be compensated by clamping the track level but not all the way down in the slot. The front clamps can adjust up and down a bit so you won’t notice it’s off. When installed the Freedom Clamps actually have about 1/16” of play before they are tightened down. So when I have a track slightly out of level I will push 1 side down and the other side up towards level. You can even use a block of wood and a hammer to get as much movement as possible. Remember, (this is mostly for people reading this prior to install), the outside brackets are the most important to get everything level. The first one sets your height. The second one sets level. Being level is more important than the bracket being on center. If it’s nice and tight to the wall, I would use a block and hammer to try and coax it toward center. Then clamp the track level and it may not sit all the way down in the clamp. Install your inside clamps and be as accurate as possible. If you do this method and the track is not sitting all the way down in the clamp, there is a possibility that the door will rub on the clamp. We can compensate for this by lowering our door (raising the rollers). So before you drill your holes in the door you can drill them slightly closer to the top of the door to make up for the gap on the track. I hope this helps. If you want to chat more please contact our support. Ruth can get you on touch with me for a call or email. Thanks!

[@hasher22]

Why wasn't the right screw wasn't in the stud but the left screw is in the stud thus it didn't fall out when you jumped on it. Also you can see the previous hole where your product is that has the stud. You're misleading people and this is false advertisement.

[@NeaterNest]

This is a comparison between a standard kit which is pre-drilled every 16 inches, and our hardware which is adjustable to the stud spacing. Not all studs are 16 inches apart. Especially around doorways. You want to talk about misleading? How about all these standard kits that make it look so easy to install and every lag going into a stud. I guarantee that almost never happens unless you plan for it during construction and add extra blocking. People get them on Amazon and think it’s a simple DIY and turns out not being safe at all. I’ve been to houses where the doors are falling off the track and the lags completely missed the studs. If you have never installed hardware like this before you don’t know you’re about to have a big problem until you get that cheap kit home and start drilling holes in your wall. That’s why people use our system instead.