Best Lure Clear Coat Yet

[@stripermanly]

Ordered this before watching your video. Good review. Still plan on incorporating the KBS and UV clear into my baits. Particularly after foiling

[@geoffmayo2158]

Not a problem but I forgot to include one step, I do super glue the lure to seal it before I paint it. Makes it rock hard. I'm like you I make 90% of my lures with wood

[@EngineeredAngler]

Geoff Mayo yeah I love Super Glue... There are so many ways to use it.

[@zzz7zzz9]

I just looked up the "east coast resins". it says the 'crystal clear' product will resist yellowing and is water-"resistant", so it's not really waterproof, designed to be submerged. and it says that it does not provide 100% UV protection. not that any of that necessarily means it won't "do the job". and like you say, for the lures you make for people, you use other products. but, this company does make a "marine-grade" product as well. that one might be the better one for lures. from what I could see, they won't ship their products out of the country, so it looks like I won't be able to get my hands on any to try.

[@JoeSteffy1932]

So I got some of that epoxy and coated a few baits with it a couple days ago. I'm really liking it! I like it a lot better than 2 ton. I still tend to use Alumi UV for one piece baits but this came out awesome on some jointed baits. I'm going to leave one out in the sun for a couple weeks and see if it yellows or stays clear, just out of curiosity. Thanks again for the video.

[@EngineeredAngler]

Cool...so far I have not seen any yellowing. I will tell you that it really does not get to full hardness for at least 10 days. That was something that surprised me. It continued to get a bit harder for quite a while. I had one in my shop and I would try to stick my thumb nail in it and I could tell it was getting tougher with time.

[@JoeSteffy1932]

Cool, thanks for the heads up. I didn't throw out the left over epoxy in the little mixing cup, I keep testing that in the same way. It seems to be getting tougher with time, I noticed the next morning (16-18 hours) if I pressed hard enough I could still put a finger print in it but no way I can do that now.

[@zzz7zzz9]

i pretty much solely use e-tex. it's been awesome for me. a few years now and have never had the issues that some people have with it, like fish-eyes and bubbles. but just lately, i've been plagued by the fish-eye issue. and i've even been super-careful with my lures, not handling them at all, and making sure nothing has contaminated them. so i've started to see the frustrations that some people have experienced. and i just noticed something else today. for some reason, not sure why, i always keep the remnants from a clearcoating session. whatever is left in the little cup, i let harden, then crack the cup off of it and save the little block of hardened clear. so i have quite a few stacked up. i just noticed that my older ones, are definitely yellow, compared to a newer group. i didn't think e-tex yellowed, but maybe it does. however, none of my lures have ever yellowed. this could also be linked to the hardener being a yellow tinge to begin with. i always found that peculiar. the end result that one wants is a "clear"coat, and it does mix to a clear, but, the hardener is yellow.so i will try to see if i can find this product you are using, and give it a try.

[@EngineeredAngler]

breathe and squeeze well that's really the most frustrating of problem. When you have a product that works for you almost always and then gives you a hard time. That's been my headache. That's why I do so much experimentation. what I found is that the clear coat reacts to the paint or sub clear coat that you put it on top of it. Austin clear coats don't like create X airbrush paint unless it's set for a few days. it seems that dipping the painted newer in floor wax makes almost all the clear coats happy. good luck

[@paulrichards1921]

When the etex hardener is exposed to prolonged heat, it will turn yellow... and even a dark brown. Don't store it under lights, near a window that gets a bunch of sunlight, etc.

[@ginotestone1915]

I am thinking on using the East Coast clear coating, tired of using E-tex, wondering how long have you had some of these baits in water and if they are holding up okay thank you Gino

[@EngineeredAngler]

I have to say the long term properties seem to be about the same as most of the quality resins. The big difference for me is that it seems to be more tolerant of imperfect surfaces...fewer flaws in the Finish. Also I believe the ultimate hardness (after 10 days or so) is better. I fish nearly every day and after nearly a year the lures have not yellowed.

[@ginotestone1915]

Thank You, I will order some today

[@dropshotdave1928]

During the cure of this product do you put it on a wheel and rotate or just coat right on the helping hands stands?

[@EngineeredAngler]

I rotate it. Anything that takes more than a few minutes to cure will sag if not turned. Cheers.

[@fishingdevotion8277]

How do you apply it ? With a brush or do you dip it in ?

[@EngineeredAngler]

With a brush.

[@vernonhearn2724]

Ok I didn’t see this until after I messed up, I have one that’s still tacky after a week, what is my best option to solve this problem.

[@EngineeredAngler]

Recoat...and hope

[@vernonhearn2724]

@@EngineeredAngler Thank you!

[@dand7052]

Is there any clear coat that can resist the razor sharp teeth of a musky? Some builders avoid clear coats by using the more caustic oil based paints but, over time those finishes get ripped and beaten up. Acrylic paints work great but won't stand up to water on their own so, they need a clear coat but, 'gators' (muskies) can leave tooth holes or worse. Once the holes are there, water can seep into the wooden body and lift all that hard work and nice paint job. I build my own custom musky lures and haven't found the right armor finish yet however, I have yet to try UV resins. Your thoughts?? Dan

[@EngineeredAngler]

The UV Resin when well set has a harness rating on the durometer scale of around 88d..this is near the hardness of bone. If it is well adhered (usually the problem) and placed thick (you'll have to experiment with it) the teeth will scratch it up but not likely to rupture the coating. Of course nothing will last forever and it's a good idea to make the bates from resin or other material that is not harmed by water. Thanks for watching.

[@labtrainer09]

Hi, Franco. How's the viscosity of this "Crystal Clear" epoxy? One of my frustrations with clear coats is that most are so thick they completely "fill-in" the gill and fin details that I so painstakingly carve into my swim- and glide-baits. I'm now doing an all-out search for a thinner epoxy that won't do this. Keep up the great work, Chris

[@EngineeredAngler]

here you go: kzbin.info/www/bejne/il6apKmqrtJonpY

[@robertficociello6619]

The manufacturer states "30 minute" working time. Did you find this accurate? TIA

[@EngineeredAngler]

I was not that long but I'm working in pretty warm conditions.

[@mg_customs8531]

Hello! Currently in the market for another batch of epoxy and most likely going with this one. Used Bob Smith 30 minute which worked great but hobby lobby only carries the smaller batches. Do you have an opinion on the Trucoat epoxy? Possible rebranded epoxy with a markup?

[@EngineeredAngler]

Not sure, sorry.

[@usmcscout0311]

Ever try the KBS spray for coating?

[@EngineeredAngler]

I have tried KBS, it works well.

[@atchenlures]

Thank you I will try measurement with the epoxy next week. 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼

[@jparryprodeal]

Minwax Fast Drying Polyurethane Have you tried this , is stated oil- based modified and contain polyurethane, is also from Minwax. as compared to the Minwax Polyacrylic Thanks

[@llanda1968]

Many greetings friend, I would like you to advise me, I have been using this resin in my lures and when I put it I have little spaces Children that are not covered and additionally the epoxy is not uniform. What do you think is the problem?

[@EngineeredAngler]

The problem could be several things. The surface of the lure could be dirty, have oils from you hands or something else. The paint that your using might not be completely dried. The resin might not work well with the type of lure paint your using. Any of these reasons could be giving you the problems. Watch this video and follow the method I use a closely as you can. Good luck Here's the link: kzbin.info/www/bejne/kGOwYpKamMSllc0

[@zzz7zzz9]

only thing to probably worry about, is it UV resistant? if it's intended use is for indoors, it may not be.

[@EngineeredAngler]

breathe and squeeze you're right that's one thing only time will tell. most of my lures are lost or destroyed by fish before they get a chance to yellow.... at least that's the plan.

[@ultralightandbassadventure9837]

Thank you for sharing I was trying to find a good clear coat for my lure making 👍

[@EngineeredAngler]

Glad I could help

[@dennishansen7951]

Can you please help me - I build my own wood lures and clear coat them - I mix approx. 3 grams of Part A to 2 grams of Part B for 5 minutes with a different epoxy then let stand for 5 minutes - with the east coat resign how long do you mix part A and Part B and after you mix them how long do you wait to clear coat the lures. Thank you for your time.

[@EngineeredAngler]

I usually mix for at least 2 minutes because I mix only small amounts.

[@Kyle_Lowrey]

Anyone know if acrylic clear coat works very well? The red eye shad in chrome colors paint falls off super easy. Thanks..

[@EngineeredAngler]

Sure...it will help protect the original finish but if the factory paint is not well adhered, coming off in flakes, there's not much you can do. Good luck.

[@characterlures2377]

What do you prefer. This epoxy or alumilite uv clear? And does it turn yellow at all? And how thick or thin is it compared to alumilite?

[@EngineeredAngler]

I really prefer the UV resin. Here's a few videos that explains all the reasons why. kzbin.info/aero/PLEVBv_zywucSOtu4FSkyWnDc5groq--WK

[@mattwinans7418]

I have been watching your videos and I got to tell ya... I really like them... Tons of great in depth info... Thank you for them... So I think I have 2 questions really.... I have started pouring lead jigs and I am designing a weight forward spinner using a lead body... I use the epoxy powder paint. When I do 2 or more colors I dip the body color and then use the "brush tap" method for the top and or bottom colors... I was wondering if after dipping the body color and baking it in the oven, can I airbrush the top and or bottom colors with water based acrylic paint and then use this product to topcoat them ? or do you have any other ideas to do the airbrush method on lead ? I would sometimes like clean lines rather than blended and can not get this with a heated jig and powder paint using say tape or stencil... Thank you

[@EngineeredAngler]

Absolutely...that is exactly what I do; I powder paint the base color then air brush the top and any other details. I then protect it all with a clear coat. The easiest way I have found is dipping in an automotive (one part) clear coat. You can by it by the pint in most auto part stores.

[@mattwinans7418]

@@EngineeredAngler Thank you, If I understand you, You first powder paint and then bake as normal... You then air brush any accent you want ... The acrylic paint of the air brush will not adhere to the epoxy powder paint. Therefore you dip it in a automotive one part clear coat. How then do you hang the jig to avoid the drips from hardening ?.. on a lure you would use a drip wire on an eyelet... the eyelet on a walleye jig is located on top... the hook out the back... Thank you... Matt

[@benfox9792]

Hello. I am looking for this product. Is it now marketed as "epoxy resin for super gloss coating" instead of "crystal clear"? Thanks.

[@EngineeredAngler]

I really don't know...I'll have to look into it.

[@mattwinans7418]

Hello... I'm back... I have an issue I'm wondering if you have run into... I have been using eastcoast resin on my plastic lure blanks.... Great looking finish... However... While installing rings and hooks I noticed that I could grab onto the finish with my thumbnail... It got me wondering if a big fat pike would tear up my lure with its mouth full of teeth... Also the plastic lure blanks have 3D scales and they were poking through the finish a bit... So I decided I would apply a second coat.... Bad results... They are now sticky... tacky still after more than 24 hrs on my turner... 1. Is there any saving these lures ? 2. I measured the 2 parts in the small cups exactly 1 to 1... should I up the hardener a bit ? I did realize one factor I missed and that was temp... My room was in the mid to upper 60's It should have been the mid to upper 70's.. Today I turned my work lights on them as they throw a good amount of heat... about 4 hrs... no change... Any ideas ?

[@EngineeredAngler]

Funny thing about 2 part resins; they take a lot longer to fully cure than they do to become hard to the touch. In fact most will not come to full strength unless you heat cure. But cold weather makes things much worse. If you can make a heat box that can get up to a bit over 150 Degrees F, put the lures in there after they are hard enough to move, and bake them for a few hours it will help with the final hardness.

[@fhg2959]

Hello sir!! So I’ve purchased this epoxy on this videos recommendation. The instructions in the box doesn’t really tell me what my work time is what my cure time is other than it being anywhere from 4 to 12 hours how long does it take for the stuff to dry to the touch realistically and is this a product that she would still suggest money is tight for me so I got to use what works but not something that’s going to fail??? Anything that you can tell me about it Would be awesome. By the way this channel is better than any other channel I’ve seen on this content can’t wait for the next video buddy. Do u still use this product??

[@EngineeredAngler]

Well thank you for the your kind words. This resin is designed for pouring over counter tops, and because of that, it has a very slow cure time so that it will level and the bubbles will float out. In cold temperatures it is even slower. You have about 45 minutes of working time to put it on your lures. It will be set to the touch in about 6 hours (less if it is the temperatures are above 80 Ded F. more if cooler) but the best practice is to let it turn overnight. Then it will be hard to the touch but not really fully set. It takes 3 days or more to be really hard and ready to fish. Good luck.

[@fhg2959]

@@EngineeredAngler thanks for the help. One question why did u switch to us clear and what’s the most affordable brand you’ve found with decent results. ??

[@oscarstone9361]

clear coat looks great, need to put it through a torture test now to see how it holds up. I use a similar product that gives me great results, though on topwater walking lures the treble hooks seem to scratch the clear quite a bit. How many coats would you put on a lure intended for fish with teeth?

[@EngineeredAngler]

Oscar Stone honestly I don't build my lures for long-duration. I put one good clear coat on and that seems to work pretty well for a season. I guess since I'm the guy making the lures I'm not too worried about having to get a new one. The lures that I make for fishing guides are a little more robust. Those I put UV cure, two coats that, stuff is super hard and really holds up two fish teeth and hook rash. Thank you for commenting and watching, let me know if you would like to see something specific.

[@oscarstone9361]

Is uv cure the brand name or a general product? Searching Uv cure on Google comes up with multiple results. The most obvious to me looks like a resin product cured by uv light?

[@EngineeredAngler]

Its a type of resin that will cure in UV light. There are also resins that will cure in UV or with a catalyst. I have been using the stuff from Alumilite, its not cheap but, the quality is excellent. There's also Solarez products also very good but its a polyester resin and that means it has a strong smell. Not good for working in the house....

[@oscarstone9361]

Thank you for the reply, I went searching and reading up on the uv clears and found the two that you mentioned, the alumilite product does look impressive, though it is close to $40 here for the 110ml

[@nijaconley441]

Engineered Angler when using uv clear coat as a final coat what do you use to seal the paint ? I get air bubbles and sometimes dents in clear

[@dennishansen7951]

Again one last question - do you let the clearcoat stand before applying to the lure. Great video thank you

[@EngineeredAngler]

No...not unless I see too many bubbles. Then I will let it stand for a fee minutes

[@dennishansen7951]

@@EngineeredAngler Thank you - You have been a great help I am going to try east coast resin with your formula.

[@jorgeferrer7319]

Hello ... I was wondering if you could share a bit of Info. I'm making my own slow pitch jigs and I want to coat them with some kind of resin that will protect the paint work from scratches and teeth and also won't turn yellowish. Thanks

[@EngineeredAngler]

I would steer you to UV cure resin. Here's a video with some info: kzbin.info/www/bejne/eYPUkIGOpqd8kLM

[@patgeurts9489]

I have been 3D printing and painting lures now for about 2 months. I have been using the Alumiite UV and I am not very happy with the results. I seem to get bubbles during the cure time, and I am not real impressed with shine. I also was testing my lures so I could sort them as sinking, floating, or neutral only to find the next day that some of my lures, the paint bubbled. I am blaming that more on operator error than product. I do not believe my UV lamp is strong enough. But none the less, the shine just wasn't what I was hoping for. I really like the "forgiveness" factor that you mentioned with this product since 3D prints are not perfect. I have ordered some and look forward to trying it. Like you, since I am making my own lures, at a cost of around.23 cents, if it yellows or fades I'll just hit "print". Thanks for the video!

[@EngineeredAngler]

The bubbles are probably the plastic off gassing in the uv light. Are you sealing the plastic with a primer ...? I like to allow the lure to turn for 5 minutes or so to allow the resin to level and the bubbles to pop off before I turn on the uv light. The Chinese brand UV resin has a much higher gloss finish.

[@patgeurts9489]

@@EngineeredAngler Actually, I have not been sealing the lures. I just finished my first one where I sealed it with the UV, light sand, then paint. turned out much better. I also heated up the UV for a thinner coat so it dries completely and actually gives off a much better shine. I have just received the Crystal Clear and need to let it warm up before I can use it. I have it sitting in warm water to speed the process, I can't wait! lol. Do you know if you can thin the Crystal or if heating it will do the same as the UV to thin it? Were all the pieces you showed in this video single coats?

[@EngineeredAngler]

@@patgeurts9489 Just warming up the resin will do the trick for you. If I remember correctly all those lures were single coat. Be sure you wipe down the lure with alcohol and I like hitting it with a blow dryer to be sure that the alcohol has evaporated off. Good luck. By the way the Aluma UV will give you a better gloss with multiple coats. But you have to wipe it down with alcohol or some other solvent between coats.

[@patgeurts9489]

@@EngineeredAngler I just finished coating several of my printed lures with the Crystal Clear and let me say OMG! this stuff is incredible! I had some lures that I printed at coarser setting just see the design and the Crystal filled in the lines to a perfectly smooth extremely high gloss finish. In my opinion, there is no comparison between this and the Alumilite UV. I would rather mix two parts (1 minute?) and apply it once than using one part and applying it several times (1 hour?). How soon did you paint your lures after you applied the Crystal? It has been 24 hrs and is dry to the touch. Thanks again! Pat

[@EngineeredAngler]

@@patgeurts9489 I use the 2 part as a final coat, But you can paint over it after 24 hours. I would recommend that you give it 3 days to realy harden up since you will need to give it a light sanding before psinting. Glad it's working for you. By the way it continues to harden for at least a week, longer in cooler weather.

[@llanda1968]

friend a question what paints do you use as a white base? do you use any water based?

[@EngineeredAngler]

yes...I use water base airbrush paints.

[@llanda1968]

Engineered Angler friend but initially before putting the final colors do you put a base paint? which in many cases is white?

[@EngineeredAngler]

@@llanda1968 I do use a white base paint if the material I'm using to make the lure is dark, like a dark wood or black resin. I mostly make my lures from a white resin so I don't usually use a white base paint.

[@asherbros.outdoors5452]

How does it work for you?

[@rhallman1000]

Did you say you sprayed the epoxy on? If so, how. Air airbrush I'm sure, but how did you thin and clean?

[@EngineeredAngler]

No I don't spray two part epoxy on...I've never tried. Thanks for checking out the channel.

[@muskyfreak88maddlures8]

TRY True Coat by True glide lures MADE FOR FISHING LURES! Try it out.

[@elcompamartinez2647]

Can i use nail polish instead?

[@EngineeredAngler]

Yes you can, but a better option is spray on clear. The Krylon pruducts work pretty well. Spray on a minimum of three coats, you'll get a nice results.

[@ZZ430T56]

How thick or thin viscosity compared to Bob Smith or Devcon? Do you need a drying wheel ? ty

[@EngineeredAngler]

A bit thinner than both I would recomend a drying wheel unless you can live with the sag at the bottom.

[@nunomelo8245]

Hi, you know how to have a matte efect with resin/epoxy in lures painting ?

[@EngineeredAngler]

That's s really good question... the only way that I have found is to use alumilite UV clear. It sets matte.

[@MMWhittemore1]

Any experience against saltwater, since it was made for indoors?

[@EngineeredAngler]

Absolutely I fish almost all my lures in both salt and freshwater.

[@pspen1856]

Now I'm in the beginning stages of lure making myself but I have heard from others with more experience that... in order to put a coat of resin over an existing epoxy or resin, the existing resin must be scuffed up in order for the new layer to adhere to the old.

[@EngineeredAngler]

That is true in general. But if your old resin layer is already weathered then all you really need to do is wipe it down with a good cleaner...denatured alcohol works well. when I want to "scuff up" a first layer I usually use a #000 steel wool.

[@JoeSteffy1932]

I'm going to try some. Thanks for the video.

[@Batuhankaygan976]

Your videos very well. I have one question, I am making my own jigs and I am applying hot foil stamping process, underneath I am using a mix of binder and acrylic paint. When I apply varnish to hologram which covers jig, turns to pale and shine on the jig is vanishing. What is the reason for this?. Another problem, I am painting my jigs with glow pigments and this pigments are not as tiny as the normal paint pigments and you can see them with your eyes after applying and when you coat them with resin, the result become catastrophic, uneven, fish-eyes... Also how can I handle this. My jigs because of paint does not have even surface. Thanks

[@EngineeredAngler]

I'm sorry but I don't know what could cause the heat transfer sheets to lose its holographic colors...and I can't help with the jig paint. I wish I could help. Good luck.

[@Batuhankaygan976]

@@EngineeredAngler thanks for your kind reply and interest . I can try to fix myself.

[@llanda1968]

Someone could tell me what is the right proportion to use the Envirotex and be really strong and not lose the brightness. Thank you

[@EngineeredAngler]

Luis, I'm sorry I missed your question. I don't use envirotex so I can't really speak to strenght or brightness but, it's usually best to stick to the manufactures mixing instructions. I would suggest that you mix by weight not volume, if you can, it usually is much more accurate. Good luck.

[@muskyfreak88maddlures8]

Id do 50/50 by weight.

[@keales9564]

Hi, I purchased this resin and I like it, but it sure stinks!😂. Is there another top resin you use? I usually use Envirotex... Thank you

[@EngineeredAngler]

Actually, this resin is the least smelly one I've used. I don't know of a better option...sorry.

[@fishingwithhoffman7365]

How does it work for long lasting?

[@EngineeredAngler]

It has lasted this long...but full disclosure I think the company is out of business.

[@rosbelymauco4376]

buenos dias , me puedes especificar la marca y el precio de este expoxiclear coat, por favor. gracias... desde puerto ayacucho estado amazonas, venezuela. muy buen canal, te felicito.

[@EngineeredAngler]

La marca de epoxy que se ve en el video ya no se vende. Pero esta marca me gusta y no es muy cara. www.amazon.com/FamoWood-FAM52080-Craft-Glaze-Quart/dp/B01M3R8JND/ref=asc_df_B01M3R8JND/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309733714686&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3230906325055021055&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9011477&hvtargid=pla-569123952389&psc=1

[@wolverinex4243]

4 years ago? We need an update on changes like durability, discoloring, etc.

[@EngineeredAngler]

I have stopped using two part resin for my clear coats but the lure I coated in this video is still looking good.

[@keales9564]

me again, I just read the product description on AMAZON, and it says 1to 1 .... volume....it makes you think its 1:1 period... have you tried 1 to 1 by weight? Thanks for the chart on the weight of the resin and resin.

[@EngineeredAngler]

keale s measuring by weight is the best way...especially for small batches.

[@mikeguy8187]

Can Is the crystal clear epoxy resin be uv cured?

[@EngineeredAngler]

No...I'm afraid not. It is a chemically catalyzed two part system.

[@walleye56789]

What do u do with the extra clear coat can it be saved?

[@EngineeredAngler]

Since anytime you mix part A with Part B there's a chemical reaction you can't save what you mix. The trick to minimizing waste is to only mix what you need plus a little bit. For the average 3 to 4 inch lure mix a total 10 grams. With this stuff it's actually better to mix two little since the working time is close to 40 minutes. If you run a little short, you mix a little bit more. Cheers and thanks for watching my videos

[@walleye56789]

Awesome Thank You! Happy Holidays to you and your family!

[@adictosalapescaex4887]

Do you use dryer rack?

[@EngineeredAngler]

Yes...I use a rotating curing rack for all my clear coats.

[@jorgemartinez4076]

Thank you for this video I try it it works just like you said

[@EngineeredAngler]

Happy to hear

[@escobaresco1895]

Have you tried Art Resin clear coat. Should review this product

[@EngineeredAngler]

Yes, it is so similar to many of the other clear resins that it did not impress me as much...but it's a good product.

[@coltonholler7063]

Is this still the best

[@EngineeredAngler]

It's not the quickest...but it has been the most reliable clear I have found.

[@coltonholler7063]

@@EngineeredAngler thank you i just order some

[@keales9564]

Great to know!! I use envirotex, as it has a "softer give" I fish off Rocks and Reef-(LAVA) and the harder ones will chip. How is this compared? With the evnirotex, if I bang it against the rocks, normally it will live a scuff or blemish. Also hook rash is almost none existent...I use Owner Stingers or BKK's . Thanks for your videos,and thanks for the "chart" ! I message you a DM.

[@EngineeredAngler]

Your right the softer stuff, the stuff that stays a bit flexy, will scratch up instead of chip. The really hard stuff like the UV-cure resin will need multiple coats to keep from chipping if your banging it against rocks or fish for really hard jawed creatures.... I really like this stuff...i put one outside in the florida sun and it is not yellowing...

[@keales9564]

How is this one? Hard? It looks really good.

[@EngineeredAngler]

@@keales9564 After about three days it is hard but you can shove a thumbnail in it if you push hard and that to me is exactly what your want, hard but not brittle.

[@keales9564]

@@EngineeredAngler yes I agree,. I fish for GT'S, THAT WITH ROCKS AND REEFS I put a minimum 5 coats...

[@EngineeredAngler]

@@keales9564 well sounds like a good problem to have.....

[@tjFalcon91]

How do you apply the epoxy?

[@EngineeredAngler]

I apply it with a disposable brush.

[@Noahfence251]

So it’s not a true 1:1 ratio on the mix?

[@EngineeredAngler]

It is if you mix by volume, but its not if you mix by weight like I did in the video.

[@CastingSoloChronicles]

Hey brother, great video and I ordered some. If I’m using a Syringe with ML, do I still go with 1.4 to ratio?

[@EngineeredAngler]

No..if you're measuring ml go 1 to 1. The difference is only if you measure by weight. Cheers.

[@quereyeforstraightguy9585]

good explanation dude! thanks for sharing!

[@EngineeredAngler]

Thanks man, I really appreciate the encouragement.

[@quereyeforstraightguy9585]

Engineered Angler i wanna ask u.. before start painting the lure i mean after carving amd sanding that wood what should i do? should i put sealer on it? or just put primer coat? or both? im so confuse sir.. btw ur channel inspired me to start making own lure.

[@EngineeredAngler]

@@quereyeforstraightguy9585 It's best to seal it, but a few coats of primer paint can do the trick.

[@quereyeforstraightguy9585]

Engineered Angler so do u mean no put sealer just a few layer or primer paint ? because i want cover all small hole on the wood so i can get smooth surface. just use a few layer of primer paint am i rite sir?

[@EngineeredAngler]

@@quereyeforstraightguy9585 If you want a really smooth suface you'll need to sand between layers of primer and repeat until it's smooth.

[@allinclusiveangler]

just received a quart of KBS diamond; yellow right out of the container... Bad batch?

[@EngineeredAngler]

Yeah. ..bad batch

[@ODColon]

According to the manufacturer, the yellow is UV protection, to keep the paint underneath from fading in the sun. I haven't used any of their UV protected resin to see if it reduces the effect of fluorescent paint, but maybe it makes it last longer. So it might be good for you, might not, depending on your needs. For automotive use, when a red car sits in the sun all day, it is a shame to see a nice custom paint job fade in a few years.

[@badavis84]

KBS also hardens faster with higher humility as well.

[@xmtowntyx]

Which do you prefer crystal clear vs envirotex lite ??

[@EngineeredAngler]

So far crystal clear has my vote...

[@geoffmayo2158]

Let me tell you the best clear coat I've used. You might laugh but it works really well in my opinion. Gorilla glue no foam, not gorilla super glue just the regular glue clear and it's only 8$

[@EngineeredAngler]

Geoff Mayo I'll give it a try...if it works well I'll include it in a video and give you the credit. thank you for sharing

[@geoffmayo2158]

Well I've used it for 3 months now and haven't had any problems with it at all. They still shine great and I fish alot so they stay in the sun and water alot

[@geoffmayo2158]

breathe and squeeze I use my lures about 3 times a week all day long and I haven't had any problems plus most of the lures I carve are out of balsa and I catch a ton of fish anywhere from 1 to 10 pounds

[@geoffmayo2158]

breathe and squeeze but like I say I super glue everything first just to seal and harden

[@sobersportsman]

How about a flying fish to catch dolphin.

[@EngineeredAngler]

Nice idea.

[@jamesstewart5371]

As a retired Aero engineer I really enjoy your channel but had to laugh about covering a " fisheye " there's a bit of irony in that? Remember always draw the free bodied diagram and you cant push on a rope ( statics and dynamics 101)

[@EngineeredAngler]

Amazing how the early lessons stick with you...and by the way, with some modifications to the rope, you CAN push on a rope😉. Thank you for commenting.

[@jhnnyboy100]

Price has doubled in 4 yrs 🙄

[@ronalexander4390]

Does it hod up to toothy critters?.. I’m looking to clear coat bronze as to eliminate corrosion.

[@EngineeredAngler]

Not sure about how it adheres to bronze...good luck.