Best Trad Climbing Tip EVER - Vlog 18

This blew my mind! It's a complete pain re-racking an extended cam...here's the solution. I wish I had thought of this, thanks Sophie Whyte.
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[@tdegler]

OK, nice vid, but... As far as I remember BD done a lot of tests that showed possible cam loop destruction in case of a fall with quite low forces IF the sling was not properly oriented. What worries me looking at your vid is that you cant predict how it will behave during a fall. Possibly the biner may act as protection for the cam loop wire or the oposite and may help destroy the pro. What was happening during BD tests was cam loop wire was bend into strong angle, then sling was just cut. I think this is what may happen in case this biner you are leaving there will position itself unluckily... Have you considered that?

[@gvajrapani8517]

You bring a great point to light, and I agree that the biner may cause problems during a fall and we should consider that and test that before using this technique.

[@DavidSamuelOwens]

I don't usually scroll down to check the comments... but after seeing this video I specifically took the time to look to see if anyone else was concerned about this technique. Glad to see I'm not the only one :)

[@haphaeu]

Psyched! Thanks =) Now, any tips on how to re-rack those pesky alpine slings?

[@richardbaxter604]

To be fair, with the type of cam you are using, just clip the biner to the thumb loop and then sort it really easily at the belay/top.

[@W0RLDP34CE]

Richard baxter would not save time on a multi pitch though

[@brianpollstergaard7143]

why pull the draw at all then? just rack the green biner

[@hocenplocas]

Hey! Love the video, maybe you know of a similar trick for alpine slings? They're lovely, but I find them really difficult to re-rack one-handed...

[@TheAquanomad]

Put them over your shoulder

[@kaimcguire5086]

Giedrius Kudelis unclip the rope end, pass that biner through the gear biner, then clip the resulting two strands. presto! your alpine draw is no longer extended. (if that was indeed your question, otherwise feel free to correct me)

[@alienxyt]

Why would you add a QD to a sling? I would extend fully or not and clip the biner at the end of the sling. Adding all that other gear seems like a recipe for failure.

[@boufonman35]

Nice tip if you use an extendable sling + a quickdraw. Unfortunately i use friends with extendables slings so that i dont have to carry so much quickdraw ! Anyway friends with extendables slings can be a little bit tricky for the second but it's worth it.

[@mattgroom5179]

True, but sometimes you need a quickdraw on an extended sling if there is a big overhang or traverse..

[@stebostock20]

What's on your grit list Matt?

[@mattgroom5179]

The ultimate tick would be Gia...

[@stebostock20]

You should get training then ;)

[@alienxyt]

@@mattgroom5179 get a longer sling

[@Misiacik91]

Why don't you just use the carabiner already attached to the cam? if you need to extend the placement even more, just use a sawn sling to put it to loop through the eye of the cam, putting the carabiner on the other end of the sling. This way you have saved one quickdraw lowered the chance of the quickdraw incliping and so no need for you to carry so many quickdraws and some weight saved.

[@SupernewtX]

Why would you not just clip into the thumb loop when you you rack it?

[@climbskibikenz]

Exactly

[@BetaClimbers]

Thank you! (Michael Scott meme)

[@DansEarway]

and Bingo was his name-o

[@Schadenfreudeac]

The only problem I could see with this is that you're clipping in the end of the draw usually used for metalwork etc into a sling. Couldn't burrs or rough spots on that side of the quickdraw potentially damage the sling over time?

[@akaAlexthekid]

Exactly what I was thinking. That's the reason for the other crab, so you don't have to use the dodgy side of a draw (apart from to hang it on your harness that is)

[@artbyrobot1]

so how do you do it then to avoid this?

[@Schadenfreudeac]

Many quickdraws designed for trad climbing would usually have space for the 'hardware' associated clip to slide around (like the DMM Spectre, or the Edelrid Nineteen G) this is really useful because you can just grab the quickdraw's 'sling', and clip the cam's clip into it rather than the other way round. I generally wouldn't use draws without this gap for trad climbing. I have a whole different set of draws for trad and sport climbing for this reason.

[@artbyrobot1]

of course buying a whole new set of draws is an option, but a very expensive and wasteful one. I'd like a better option.

[@viniciusmaltauro]

Matt, can you help me? I'm having a hard time doing it on my BD C4's and I don't under-extend why! Now seriously, this tip makes me value the extendable ones a little more, good job y'all for having fun and sharing knowledge while making money!

[@akaAlexthekid]

Personally I wouldn't use this technique unless my draws are in relatively new condition. Think about which end is being clipped into the sling, it's the grotty end that's been chewed up by the wire from the nut's! You'll end up with chunks of metal in your sling, or you take a fall and it slices through, it doesn't take much to cut a sling when its under load.

[@sarikshaikh-upadhye6279]

And they have halved the maximum load because physical

[@pilorom]

"Best tip ever" just to save some seconds for the second climber (who normally is quite safe from above)? Far from the best tip..

[@LastCookieToCrumble]

Bad tip. You are reducing the amount of force the sling can take by doing that.

[@NateFanning]

How? I don’t think so

[@LastCookieToCrumble]

@@NateFanning Honestly, I forgot about this. This is back when I first started trad and I don't know why I thought this.

[@NateFanning]

Patrick Sullivan haha well that’s where I’m at, so you could be right but I don’t think it would hurt anything

[@LastCookieToCrumble]

@@NateFanning I think I was just worried about the girth hitch, which reduces the strength, getting pinched by the carabeiner and weakening farther.

[@bullionsean456]

@@LastCookieToCrumble Yes Patrick, you are correct. It would probably reduce the maximum amount of total force the sling could take, but it would be very little, and might actually reduce the amount of force put on that sling during an equivalent length fall with and without using that technique by introducing an additional layer of dynamic properties into the system when the sing moves to cinch tighter around the biner being hitched when weighted.

[@bobbypatton4903]

Fuck yeah! Gonna start doing that with my dragon cams!

[@bythehaunches3691]

That is a very helpful tip. Will be using that!

[@timogiese316]

Realy nice one!

[@civedm]

There's no way i'd do that. That trapped biner looks like it would be at war with that dyneema and my money would be on the biner if I had to bet which would win.

[@RippDrive]

Ooof. Gotta stabilize that shit. I feel sick having watched that.

[@jimtomlinsom1279]

That tip is as weak as my climbing. I'd last about half hour with that guy before walking off.

[@mattgroom5179]

Ha! That guy, that guy is a person.