How to build confidence as a trad leader

[@jf7393]

Hi Dave. Not sure you'll see this, but I'd just like to say thank you for being one of the few, possibly the only climber of your caliber to go as deeply as you have into the psychological side of climbing. You're second to none in terms of the amount of coaching you've given on self-maintenance for climbers, psychological and physical. Sincerely thank you so much. Watching your videos has completely changed the way I approach things and handle my inner struggles with climbing.

[@brendanbates8615]

What an applicable video. Yesterday, I backed off of a slabby 5.8 while staring up at the runout to the anchor. Proceeded to toprope it after with ease. Your advice of pushing into the fear territory with the knowledge that "you can handle what is coming" is really an excellent mantra that I have to bring with me to the crag on my next outing.

[@MonkeyBarsEveryday]

Man, I crushed the crux of a boulder only to jump off the easy slab. Those psych barriers are tough

[@simonsimon9880]

Been there, man. In 30 years of climbing, I can't even count how many times I've backed off a route, only to cruise it on tr. I've also backed off countless routes, then flailed miserably on tr, grateful that I made the decisions I did. Some seasons, I feel like I'm getting pretty good at knowing the difference. But only some...

[@billking8843]

That was fantastic! After a long break from outdoor climbing due to the pandemic, that would be a great process for getting back in the swing of placing gear.

[@ronangarvey5901]

Hey Dave, as an aspiring trad climber from Ireland trying to push through the E grades this season. I really appreciate the psychological delinations you provide. Finding that balance between capability and comfort zone is a strategy I'll employ. Many thanks.

[@HochstartHarry]

I approve this Message! Ive done to many 1-4 trad climbs and now a 6-7 trad climb feels terrifying. Even though my capabilities are more in the 8 range. Ive got to say though that i climb trad on knoted slings and ufos, so every placement is somewhat sketchy, some downright useless. I also solo up to 5 but most cruxes here in saxony are basicly unprotected at my level. Recently i did a 6 trad route on a sandstone tower (Große Herkules Säule), it felt horrible, i was pumped, scared and i had a slabby 4 meter unprotected pice of slippery sandstone ahead. I somehow managed my fear but at some point i just was begging for a decent hand (jug) eventhough i was physiclly well able to do it if i didnt overgrip every dang hold because poo was tryin to come out 😂 well, i did do it and the topout felt like a rebirth to me. Still, one of my scariest lines to date.

[@Aldroid0]

Thanks for this video. Over a year ago I decked and broke my leg, then went back into it with the wrong mindset. Watching this before a trip to Indian Creek helped my head get back to where it once was.

[@philleng480]

Nice one Dave. Looking forward to the trad endurance video - that is always my nemesis. 1 hour or more on a pitch is so different to anything else in climbing.

[@KombiLife]

Great produyction quality here Dave. Thanks for the great tips as always

[@mikaelwerner1]

True wisdom, that is. Thank you Dave.

[@StuartMcLarenJ]

Very interesting, I went back to climbing after a prolonged gap while we had family. I’ve never been able to get my head clear enough to trad climb as well I did. This is very insightful into how to process the development of head space.

[@simonsimon9880]

Yup. Procreating is a real mind-fuck.

[@simonimre6448]

Excellent vid & great camera angles! So handy having the variety on the same sections to get a clearer picture on the climbing. Thank you Dave.

[@RoadtoV11]

Very interesting video and well made as per usual. It's not all about mileage but about the right choices and right mindset!

[@barneyadams9869]

Ah man this has given me so much confidence in my climbing and my journey within it! I was so surprised to realise that I already use many of your thought processes and as a predominantly solo climber I don't often get to have these conversations with partners to confirm that my process is viable and productive. Thank you so much for sharing with us 😊

[@johnaisthorpe6141]

Nice one, Dave. Looking forward to the endurance one. Bring on trad season!

[@matthunt5378]

Brilliant video Dave. Keep up the good work. always a pleasure to watch

[@robertcreer8826]

Thank you, very useful as ever. Looking forward to the next one!

[@noahpraver9521]

Hi Dave. you're the man!

[@ASNIV_]

Awesome video, Dave

[@ElliotLukeB]

Thanks and excellent timing to be thinking about this now

[@MovementForBJJ]

Thanks your advice Dave, it’s really helped me along the way at Dumbarton. Cool to know that you will have done the climbs I’m on many times over. Cheers!…Sam✌️

[@taylorevans1642]

I love the first day of the season talk. I’ve climbed decently hard trad but i don’t climb trad a ton. So if I get back on it after a long break I’m freaking out 5 or 6 grades lower

[@aidanscarffe5256]

Love your vids Dave! can't wait for the endurance video. Not as much as you would think out there on the subject compared to finger strength and power info

[@paulgaras2606]

Macleod is fast approaching guru status.

[@AlkisT]

It’s a subject I’m particularly interested in. I have not really returned to trad properly since COVID. Even though I’m a stronger boulderer and sport climber than I was before COVID, my comfort zone on trad has shrunk enough that when I go out I try something too far out of it and get really stressed. Other times I do things that are too easy and they just aren’t satisfying. Really need to figure out how to get myself back into things without dreading the next session, which is the rather unhealthy mental state I have right now.

[@JoachimMilan1]

That E2 looks like a great route!

[@largeformatlandscape]

Plague of Blazes is great .. VS vertical crack with great gear into very thin climbing and micro gear. Safe but you’d take a big swingy whipper if you fell. Dave took a direct line which might be harder - I’ve go left at the lump and traversed back for the usually wet mantle at the end…

[@tobynuttall615]

Thank you Dave!, you are a genuine blessing to the climbing community

[@diothemountain1090]

What worked for me was slowly bringing myself in more exposed situations, at first doing very easy sport routes and skipping bolts, very quickly after that free soloing these routes, when i got a set of nuts i would skip bolts on harder routes and place nuts in between, by the time i had a full rack I had the confidence to climb a little under my limit any trad route i found. Overall perfecting my climbing technique and getting used with exposure proved to be the way to go, sure there are times im sketched out for the first 2-3 meters but after I place the first piece i suddenly feel an intense confidence.

[@jfireclimbing]

I think this way of thinking about confidence is also crucial to progression in climbing in general.

[@Merkhhhhh]

Shoutout to our guy for wearing a helmet to stay safe whilst climbing with no rope.

[@gustau4764]

Endurance is my Achiles heel. There's nothing like the fear of getting pumped before the next bit of gear to dent one's confidence... I look forward to your advice on this!

[@Mike-oz4cv]

That’s not lack of endurance, that’s fear. I see it in lots of boulderers who only rarely go lead climbing.

[@middle-agedclimber]

Those views makes me wanna jump on my horse (that I don't own) and ride (I can't) through the hills.

[@user-qn9ku2fl2b]

wise words

[@simonwilliams9850]

I'm a pretty low grade climber but my favourite thing is lead rope soloing Trad

[@TurdPrincess]

Sore foot from an old injury - is that your ankle acting up from the cartilage injury you had back in the day? I ask because I am recovering from a similar injury myself, and am curious how you are fairing with long approaches and big days on the wall.

[@jirikral1733]

Dave, you try to do it every day for sustained period, but I, havening work, old mum and 4 kids to look after, going climbing out on roks ones in two weeks, so how do I stop shitting myself, tell me :)))

[@daviddomingos3875]

min 5, safety first, never forget your helmet guys

[@leotenno4534]

Could the first climb be done DWS?

[@climbermacleod]

So long as you didn't fall off until the last 5 moves where it goes left.

[@MrLinknel]

where's the crag at 7:30?

[@largeformatlandscape]

Tunnel Wall on Buachaille Etive Beag I think … starts at 7c sport