Better than the Bambu Lab X1C (for the money) - Flashforge Adventurer 5M Pro

[@mikelaurie3850]

Thanks for the lengthy review with tons of detail, this is what all reviews should be like

[@vcancer]

If I remember correctly, you had another channel that was end by YT. I was pissed when that happened, but I'm glad I found you again. Watching this video made me make up my mind in buying two of these printer for the early black Friday sale. Never been more happier. This is an upgrade to my two older printers. The CR-10 and Ender 3 original first version. These printer are vastly better in all aspects to those printers. Number one being the speed. I will be printing up your spool replacement hopefully pretty soon so that I won't have to go to the back. Now I see that you can print multi color with this printer. I'm going to look more into that. That for making make my decisions to get these printer. So far I'm happy with my purchase.

[@Spartyo]

I think you're one of the best at in depth comparisons like this. Love to see these types of videos from you, you explain the *why* in ways that are both technical, yet easy to understand.

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

Thank you for the compliment. I hope you have a wonderful day.

[@ericangermair]

Amazing honest review! Thank you for such amount of detail. Worth every second watched.

[@TweakRacer]

Should be comparison with the PIP at the same $499 price, rather than the X1C and then using its higher price against it.

[@Antrim3d]

P1p is not enclosed at $499

[@Andyah]

@@Antrim3d p1s`?

[@ljadf]

The P1P and P1S are closer in price, perhaps not exactly the same, but larger volume. I think I'll stick with them.

[@NWGR]

@@ljadf Yeah, for apples to apples here, the P1S is only $100 more than the flashforge, and is a better printer in a lot of ways. That's where my money would go as well.

[@anomicxtreme]

@@NWGR Only difference between P1P and P1S is the enclosure and both are 4 filament, with the X1-C being 16. Not to mention the types of filament as well. This is like saying a chevette is better than a corvette because I can put 85 octane in it. Ludicrous.

[@Sfernan888]

Our lab did an analysis on Magigoo. they said its 1 part 100% ipa, 1 part distilled water and 2 parts clear washable elmer's glue. if you want you can try it out and compare it to the other bed adheasives.

[@josephploettner7327]

Thanks for the great video! Glad to see some new things.

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

You're welcome. Thank you for the nice comment. Have a nice day.

[@retromodernart4426]

Whoa, what an extensive review, that's the shining example of what a review should be! Your excellent review makes it VERY easy to decide to buy this printer 😃 Thank you very much for setting such a high standard in printer review!

[@Antrim3d]

Great video. Good insights. I've missed these style of videos. 👍🏻🤗

[@thelightspeed3d712]

I have thousands of hours on both these printers. I actually like how the FF loads and unloads filament

[@Cheeky-Trivia]

its actually pretty smart, just clip off the filament and load in new stuff. No waiting on unloading and then loading. IMO more efficient.

[@daymianhayes2493]

I own the Flashforge 5M, it was my first printer. It prints perfectly out of the box every time, with default settings in Orca slicer. I've done alot of testing with it and it can print at speeds up to 600mm/s. Its been very reliable, my favorite part is the quick change nozzles.

[@Thadopeera]

Dope feedback bro. Need as much info as I can get

[@NoMercyFtw]

This printer is my go to recommendation for everyone wanting to get into 3D printing that's serious but not this model it's the regular one for $300 because you can enclose it for cheaper than $200 yourself again if you're serious about 3D printing this should not be an issue, and the one thing I love about this 3D printer is it's the only printer I've encountered that actually has 5G Wi-Fi speeds and it comes with an optional Ethernet port which IMO you don't need because of the fast Wi-Fi speeds lol............. The only downside to this printer is the cost of the replacement nozzles that's it, install the klipper mod to completely delete that filament waste when you change filaments, and it's $38 for the harden steel ones $35 only for the regular .4, great video........

[@Numenor7]

How did you enclose it? How much did that cost?

[@NeoBTK]

yes you can enclose M5, but it won't be as good as M5 Pro. M5 Pro's enclosure is better, it has, camera and ventilation system (internal and external), and besides camera, you can't upgrade it on regular M5 unfortunately. I intended to do it myself, but after research, I think it is better to buy M5 Pro and have the whole package.

[@NoMercyFtw]

@@NeoBTK no it is better to buy A Q1 pro, because you get more for your money speaker printer with a chamber heater they also prints better

[@NeoBTK]

@@NoMercyFtw It was in regards of M5 and M5 Pro, but Qidi Q1 Pro is also great, I am considering it as well. It is even cheaper than M5 Pro, has a little bigger working space, some interesting features, but men, for me, it is ugly as f***. It bothers me, but I don't know, maybe I'll get over it somehow ;) The print quality is similar I guess, because M5/M5 Pro is also really great in that matter. And I am also considering X-Plus3, it is about the same price as M5 Pro, but I will think about it.

[@NoMercyFtw]

@NeoBTK That's exactly why I would never buy the pro it's price point doesn't make sense there are better machines or methods to get with that printer is offering for cheaper

[@ulfsvensson3772]

Best 5M pro review i have seen thank you

[@zravel]

I absolutely agree that the Adventure 5M is a really growing alternative at the moment. By far the biggest advantage of Flashfroge: Flashfrog is in the more expensive segment (Flashforge Guider 3 Ultra), it brings a lot of professionalism to the cheaper models. Customer support, customer proximity, open ears - this is on a higher level and plays in a different league and is absolutely outstanding. The not Pro model - an unbeatable price performance. I have the Pro, the non-Pro and Bambulab X1C. However, I don't see the 5M as the beginner printer. I see it as an additional printer for people who know their way by working with 3D Printes or those how will spend a littel more time to come into the topic. The M5 is a damn good printer, but in my opinion, there are also disadvantages, note: I Complain at a very high level, at this price there is actually no complaint at all: Missing spaghetti detection. Missing first Layer inspection. The PEI Plat is even worse than the old black one from Bambulab - so the PEI plate from the M5 is even worse than the one that Bambulab no longer sells (and I also have many such plates from the M5) A lot of work when creating profiles, Bambulab comes with a lot of generic profiles that only need small adjustments - these are already in Orca Slicer. At flashprint, new fillament profiles from 5M can`t be easily saved on 5M Pro (nothing at all). You can`t even save anything from 0.6 nozzel profiles to a 0.4mm nozzle setting because everything is saved in a single profile (i.e. printer settings and filament settings are not separated). In Flashprint there is no distinction between printer settings and general filament settings. And the supports produced by Flasprint (tree structers) are a disaster. If you want to operate the M5 in the Orca, you really have to start at the beginning with the profiles. There wasn't the slightest bit of preparatory work from Flashfrog. This takes a lot of time and you really have to buy more than one printer before you take the time to do it. Many filament manufacturers also offer prefabricated profiles for Bambulabs - no wonder, everyone wants to get their filaments on those printer. At Flashfrog, not even Flashfrog itself works on modifying their fillament printing profiles... so I think there will never be a filament manufacturer that will match them to the Flashfrog as well, and until that won`t happens, the M5 is just a lot more work. And that means in a few words: More work for the customer = fewer customers.

[@Noneofyourbusiness2000]

For the people who are seeing how much cheaper this is than the X1C, I just picked up Bambu Lab's P1S for $550 with the AMS for $200, for a total of $750 on one of their black Friday sales. The P1S is an X1C without the lydar, and with a plastic body instead of aluminum, a cheaper display, and a 100 C bed instead of an 110 C bed. Besides the hot end and extruder gears, they have are identical with the same printing speeds. The gears and hot end with a hardened steel nozzle can be installed on the P1S and cost around $50 for both.

[@zravel]

@@Noneofyourbusiness2000 Absolutely a matter of taste. It really depends on what you need the printer for. The X1C also seems a bit expensive to me at the moment, but since I have it I wouldn't give it away. If the printer works constantly, the P1S also has no spaghetti detection - some people want it, others just want the better price. So it's an absolute question of taste that everyone has to know for themselves. Abrasive materials, TPU - PTFE tubes maintenance on the AMS... really there are so many different user needs. And he has concrete on the video, "for single filament printing". There's also so much going on at the moment, let's wait and drink some tea.... The new V2 belt printer from Ideaformer, the printer announcement from Bambulab for the new pending flagship, QIDI Plus 4 hot or flop? But I definitely wouldn't give the M5 at the moment, but it has more to do with accessibility operation of several printers, interchangeability of parts and the time required for this and so on, TPU printing with 2 kg +, usable color display and so much more. If I were to buy just one and had to do that now, the P1S would certainly not be a bad choice either but I'm also happy that I don't have to choose one at the moment... and I can't get very far with a single printer either, so to choose a printer I need something that stands out where the printer delivers specifically. For me, the P1S is a bit too much of an all-rounder which will by simply surpassed by a printer I already own. The P1S simply neglects things that not everyone needs, but others like me greatly appreciate - so the P1S would just be standing around without any print jobs anyway. Than we would also have to talk about the P1P, because with PETG the housing is more of a nuisance than good. So why pay 750 USD for a printer with AMS where I don't need another AMS or the printer when I can get another printer for 500 or 300 USD that fits into the fleet. In cases, also supplies spare parts for all other printers standing beside of it.......Than we would also have to talk about the P1P, because with PETG the housing is more of a nuisance than good and so on........

[@Noneofyourbusiness2000]

@zravel understood. I was just letting people know Bambu had something like the X1 but substantially cheaper that competed price wise with the one in the video. $500 vs $550.

[@ZURAD]

Looking at their website, they don't claim PA compatibility. That might be a deal breaker for me. Also I greatly appreciate that you tore down the hotend. That's huge

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

Yeah, it's because of that hotend. Any filament that prints under 280° will work.

[@juliusvalentinas]

Isnt pa in preset list on filament load menu?

[@thelightspeed3d712]

The nozzle is the same nozzle flashforge has been using since 2018. My understanding is it can go to 300°. I did have an issue with mine. The z motor shaft was bent causing all kinds of weird stuff.

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

So If Bontech and Slice made a conversion, it would be compatible on many printers that Flashforge makes?

[@boomers_pb]

Adventurer 3/4 nozzles are different from 5M nozzles. Default nozzles on those printers could reach 245°, the upgraded nozzles could reach 265°.

[@Marc42]

Many thanks, greatly appreciated your very in-depth review!

[@joseph-montanez]

Finally showed up on my recommended feed!

[@Scr00ples]

1:03:00 , you could try those felt pads that stick on to furniture legs. Cut them small and place them on the cable chain to prevent further rubbing/scratching.

[@algisberziunas]

@@Scr00ples just cut tube for 3cm off ant it wont scratch

[@Liberty4Ever]

10:15 - Probably shouldn't open the door or place any other external forces on the printer while it's using the accelerometer to calibrate the input shaping, and definitely shouldn't slam the door. 56:44 - Actually, the PCB says "Extuder" and not "Extruder". 🙂 I was surprised when this turned into a tear down engineering analysis. Thank you.

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

Great observations! Thank you for the good comment.

[@Zepeda3D]

Man, i`m subscribed to your channel but i never see your videos appear in my feed, i had to look for you by name in the search. Just so you know that how much I like you. Keep up the awesome work!

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

Have you tried turning it off and on again? Seriously though, unsubscribe and then re-subscribe. kzbin.info/www/bejne/pmmYqaqQlLR_jpIsi=vnVYPHK6TqVSh5w_

[@Zepeda3D]

@@DesignPrototypeTest Lol I appreciate the video reference. I will try that! Thank you! Great video BTW!

[@thelightspeed3d712]

I did a ton of ASA with mine and the flashforge is now only doing ASA, PC nylon etc. it’s a dang good machine for that stuff. I love it lol I’m typing as I’m watching the video.

[@juliusvalentinas]

Really? Others say it cant print nylon

[@TheIllya]

Just bought mine, it should arrive in a few days! Looking forward to playing with it

[@jeffgoodin4278]

Best review of this printer I've seen! Just bought mine 2 weeks ago and could not be happier! One issue I have is it stopping on a very large print with a Move Queue Overflow error. I heard it's because of very low system memory, but ... ?

[@AJSax0n]

The ultrasonic welded extruder unit is actually very easy to open. It pops open with your fingers. I’ve opened mine 3 time due to filament wrapping around the teeth inside.

[@mohammedssuliman9117]

Hey long time no see, u look healthier .. good to see u

[@TastySlowCooker]

Just FYI on the filament screen of the bambulab there’s an unload button. You don’t have to tap the screen a hundred times. Thanks for the review, it’s interesting to see what the rest of the industry is doing, but my partner will kill me if I get a third printer 😬

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

I hate using the filament unload button because it makes you declare what filament you have which takes more time than just clicking the button a hundred times.

[@TastySlowCooker]

@@DesignPrototypeTest fair enough

[@pcpanikMusik]

Hm. I‘m not sure between this 5M Pro and the Bambo Lab P1S. Don’t have any experience in 3D Printing. I want to print heat- and UV-Light resistant parts out of ASA and TPE for use outdoors. Not interested in fiddling around. Would love to use my iPad for creating and printing. Which should I go for?

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

I have not reviewed the P1S so I can't give you a definite answer. However, given your very specific criteria of wanting to print ASA and other high temperature materials, warping is going to be your number one adversary. A fully enclosed print chamber that's sealed is Paramount. It's incredible how the smallest draft of air or fluctuation in temperature can cause significant warping problems. The 5m pro here seals along all doors. Better than the X1C.

[@pcpanikMusik]

@@DesignPrototypeTest Thank you for your answer, time and that information.

[@yudhisthiradharma]

Nice review .. but I guess you should compare with the P1s cause it’s in the same range.. it’s not on the same league of the x1C .. still I like the flashforge touch screen …

[@kyndred-ry5mm]

lots of detail ,thank you

[@djsideshow5115]

Sure but maybe do you know what the error code E0004 is? Because even the tech support couldn't tell me. The adventurer 5m pro was working great for about a month or two then now mine gets an error code e0004 now

[@ProjectDefi]

Bro great content. You earn a subscribe. I'm new to 3d printing. I got the a1 mini as my first printer. I'm pretty happy with ease of use. Was thinking x1 carbon. This has swayed me. Thank you. I will save a bunch

[@shanepearce1629]

you have the bambu wrong as back mount was on The FlashForge Finder 3D printer was first available on November 6, 2015.

[@MisterkeTube]

If the hardened steel nozzle hotend is also copper / brass except for that tiny last couple of mm of nozzle fitting over it, it won't be very resistant to the abrasive filaments, will it?

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

Great comment! My observations are that the hole in the nozzle gets widened with abrasives. Also, the tip of the nozzle gets rounded being dragged across abrasive filament after printing. I am sure that some whear will occur inside the melt chamber made of brass, but it won't be that important compared to the massive damage that gets done to tip of the nozzle.

[@lavafree]

Great to see you back to a more positive video 👏🏻👏🏻💪🏻

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

I'm always positive. Even when I'm being critical. I'm working to make things better.

[@DanSmith-fj2sd]

I love these videos. Good work 👍

[@richarddarkskyfell9236]

do you have an upload of the spool holder you made? I love it

[@christopherlyons7613]

Thanks for the video. But really wish you ended with an overall summerization with a listing of your specific +s & -s and overall opinion. With this printer available for $469 for Prime members it really seems to provide great value. Is it missing a few things that Bamboo can do, yes, but will those things impact you much, probably not. I'd say the biggest benefit to going with Bamboo is access to the AMS. But for general home use that's not a huge factor for my use case. When using Orca can you get access to the camera to check your prints? You talked about possible issues with the plastic encased hot end. What are the exact limitations of their hot end design? What is the max temperature you can print at? Did you actually test any of that? Appreciate any additional info you can provide. Thanks.

[@JackWu-l8d]

Loving the Adventurer 5M vibes in this video! 😍 As a Flashforge fan, I can't help but adore the AD5M Pro as well! It's like having a mini factory at home 🏭. Prints as smooth as butter, faster than my old 3D printer, and easy on the newbies too! 😄👍 #FlashforgeForever

[@tylerplayzz8697]

Try the Qidi Q1 pro, it can print just as fast at the 5M Pro, can get it for a decent bit less with a coupon code, has an actively heated chamber, and a bigger build volume than the 5M Pro

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

I've been burned twice accepting Qidi printers for review. I really wanted to like them. On paper they have everything that I'm looking for. In actuality the engineering is flawed and the printers don't deliver. At least the ones that I saw. It would take A LOT to get me to trust that brand. Basically every single other reviewer would have to be raving unanimously. Even then I would still be skeptical.

[@christianpetty704]

I became a patreon supporter - but I am unable to locate the files for the relocation of the spool. Could you advise me further please?

[@Goblues22]

What size bearings are those?

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

Regular skateboard bearings. AKA ”608”

[@Goblues22]

@@DesignPrototypeTest Perfect thank you

[@SrObser]

Too bad about the proprietary hotend, but I guess with those speeds we can just stick with the included 0.4mm until an open source alternative comes up.

[@davidwilson4190]

Print with the included .6 nozzle, OrcaFlash has the profile for the .6... it's a game changer. Prints .4 layer height at max, makes vase mode just smokin fast... layer lines on certain prints adds a certain effect that's desired

[@1blktalon]

Thank you for this video.

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

You are certainly welcome. Have a great day!

[@toalan]

One thing that nobody mentions in reviews is power consumption. The 5M Pro should have stellar energy efficiency since the bed is a bit smaller than average and the housing is plastic.

[@jeffersonhenault7444]

seems like it would be really easy to relocate where you hang the spool.

[@JoeyG1973]

What happened to the GMC Motorhome?

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

Nothing. It's been sitting stagnant since the last video that I made about it.

[@JoeyG1973]

@@DesignPrototypeTest I was enjoying how you were re-engineering it using your design and 3d printing skills.

[@ydoIhavetohaveachann]

ever since I got a textured build plate for my CR-10 I quit using painters tape or glue, is the adhesive really necessary?

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

If you only print with pla and you keep the bed very clean with rubbing alcohol before every print, then you can get away without bed adhesive.

[@GameMaker04]

it has no Multi material/color option though ?

[@fuzedlabs]

exactly, they arent even comparable. Bambu is so much more advanced and useful for a machine at his compared price-point. P1P is superior in that without the enclosure, it can still do multicolor (for some more money, or by earning free gift cards through Bambu makerworld by releasing free models)

[@brawndo8726]

Nice review. FYI there was rumor that Bambu firmware was sending gcode back to home-base. The mere possibility of espionage is a bit of a deal breaker to me. The ability to self-install Klipper is probably something most people should add to their requirements list.

[@T-omi]

I guess those are strain gauges and not "piezo microphones". Basically entire bed is one scale, and it is detecting pressure from nozzle pushing it down.

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

Thank you for the correction! I missed that detail. I should have caught that. The bamboo lab uses piezo sensors, but strain gauges are possibly the better solution. This is why the nozzle only touches once during probing on this machine. The strain gauge will register higher and higher values as the nozzle pushes harder and harder. There's no doubt contact has been made. Whereas you do a double tap When using piezo sensors to ensure a good reading because it only registers upon first tap. As the nozzle pushes harder into the bed, you don't get more of the reverberations triggering the piezo sensor.

[@deeber35]

Can thee front door be removed? Would that ruin its performance? I am short on space.

[@alishanmao]

On Bambu x1c, the screen you shown. click on filament and there is ,load and unload command. Maybe you missed it or you don't know it?😅😅

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

I'm fully aware of this workflow. It's more difficult than just pressing the up button on the extruder. When you click unload it asks you what filament is loaded. You have to scroll through the list. If you accidentally select a bamboo filament, it says it cannot read the chip. Very frustrating. That's why I was decrying the loading and unloading a filament on the bamboo lab as being difficult.

[@alishanmao]

@@DesignPrototypeTest I am not using any ams system. Ordinary filament and its the most convenient function to load and unload just by one click

[@MarcelHuguenin]

That was a great review, interesting and detailed. Thanks!

[@landroveraddict2457]

I've always been apprehensive of bed rise printers particularly those with the bed supported on one side only. How much layer shift is noticeable?

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

This is a valid concern. If it was a CNC machine. The forces acting on a 3D printer are extremely minimal. The bed is plenty stiff. There are zero issues associated with The z-axis movement system. The bed is lifted at three points.

[@davidmccrary8136]

Nice video by the way would you by any chance know anywhere to find a file for a Glock 21 that I can download the slide I've been trying forever to find when I can't find the slide and barrel

[@flat-earther]

thinking about getting this or K1 Max, what do you think?

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

I have generally liked Creality products in the past. They are on their own program and they could definitely be better, But they are solid performers. That is all I can say about the K1 Max because Creality did not send one to me for review.

[@איציקבנימין]

Where can I get the Stl file?

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

Are you a patreon supporter?

[@tsarrr]

Are you able to provide the stl for the G17 file?

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

Please watch the video. I answered your question there. Also, check out my X/Twitter account. Link in the description. Click on the "highlights" tab.

[@richiebricker]

Havent seen ya in a couple months, Stupid algorithm. I miss ya taking apart brand new stuff just so we can see how it works

[@dylanwei-s7t]

try the build plate with Gold color, the bed adhesion is better

[@louisdelsesto2641]

I been trying to decide what printer to buy bamboo labs or ? I have 5-600 to spend and I want a no tinker print out of box , and great for first timers . Please help me decide . My ADHD is messing with my decision skills . I should mention is rare I have money to spend so I just want to make a great choice . Please help . Ty

[@СаняБелы-я4ч]

for you well only Flashforge Adventurer 5M (no 5M Pro) ....prise approximately 300 USd and you be very happy 😊

[@alin619]

i had a Adventurer 5M and had nothing but problems, it worked fine for a few prints but then it would stop extruding mid prints. could not print TPU because of this. I own a P1P and X1C and there is no comparison, ive had minor issues with them as well but they're still working perfectly today. even though i bought the 5M on sale i wish i didn't, very cheaply made.

[@NWGR]

As is usually the case with all these companies trying to play catch-up with bambu. Bambu really shook up the landscape by making their printers work so easily and reliably with no tinkering or modding necessary.

[@juliusvalentinas]

Are you paid to say so?

[@alin619]

@@juliusvalentinas nope, i have have all bambulab printers now and owned a Flashforge 5M. just my experience with Flashforge

[@juliusvalentinas]

@@alin619 Explain this video then "Review of the Bambu X1 Carbon You Didn't Expect"

[@CdoGtheGreat]

Does it have an ams?

[@KalelAr]

Does the FF have all of the auto-calibration of the X1C? I haven’t gotten too deep in the video yet.

[@stevendunn264]

Will that slicer run on a 2015 IMac ?

[@enosunim]

They also have P1 clone, which is in frame without walls.

[@runesvensson1244]

Hope they will do a dual or multi color printer.

[@kellio48]

As I watch this video, I'm sitting on the fence as to which way to jump off in buying my first 3D printer so thanks for helping me decide. BTW, those multi grips you used to dismantle the hot end nozzle look impressive. I'm curious as to what they're called and where to buy them?

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

Knipex Pliers

[@RonaldStear]

Elmers purple school glue stick is master of all bed adhesives. Also every time you load filament you get a purge, no reason for plugged nozzles. Never happens to me and I've use this for hundreds of prints. Finally, to properly purge the head that's what that strange, crooked wire thingy was that you saw when you unboxed.

[@Numenor7]

Did you look at the QIDI Q1 PRO?

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

I've been burned by two Qidi printers. At this point they would need to pay me to do another review.

[@juliusvalentinas]

Their printers we that bad? What models?

[@shanepearce1629]

there is Upgrade Hotend Kit 0.4mm Nozzle For Flashforge Adventurer AD5M/5M Pro 3D Printer

[@nortonshields8405]

Can u connect and print through the Ethernet connection

[@СаняБелы-я4ч]

yes,no problem

[@TheWebgecko]

Curious about this vs the QIDI Q1 Pro

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

Fool me once. Shame on you. Fool me twice. Shame on me. I reviewed two Qidi printers. I make no money from these videos to justify the time spent filming and editing. I couldn't get rid of those printers fast enough. At this point, Qidi would have to pay me to review another one of those printers. They may be fantastic now. I'm not taking the chance.

[@TheWebgecko]

@@DesignPrototypeTest rip 😭

[@ImaginationToForm]

I think Flashforge actually put the spools on the back first. I had a clone of a Flashforge dual head printer and it had the spools on the back. Flashforge has been around a lot longer than Bambu.

[@calank923]

If you click on settings in the X1C there is a load/unload. Same thing with every bambu lab printer I ever owned. Even the a1 and a1 mini have a load/unload filament option. You’re doing it wrong or you are on some extremely old firmware

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

When you click on that, it asks you for the filament type. The menu is convoluted. It's easier and faster to just click the button.

[@calank923]

The temperature menu you were in to extrude filament click on the filament tab to the right of it on top and should be a load/unload option. If not explore your menu no doubt in my mind that it’s got a load/unload option so you don’t have to click extract 10 plus times. It also preheats the nozzle and everything for you than backs the filament out all you have to do is pull it out the rest of the way.

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

That's the whole point that I'm trying to make. It's more of a difficulty to use the workflow you describe. The machine is trying to think for me. I am fully capable of running 3D printers. All I need is a warning if I try to remove filament when the nozzle is cold. But even then I still need to be able to remove filament without it at full temperature because of So-Called "cold pulls" to de-clog the nozzle. Seriously, the menu options are wrong and they're a very bad UX design. I should be able to just hold the up arrow on the extruder control and it should unload at full speed. If the nozzle isn't at temperature yet, it should just say "The nozzle is below printing temperatures. Are you sure you want to continue?" The printer treats you like you're an idiot. It's a dumb machine. I'm the human It should do what I want it to do. My options should not be buried deep in a convoluted menu somewhere.

[@mikelaurie3850]

How would you rate this compared with a k1c or a qidi tech q1 pro

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

tHe cOMmuNiTy reached out to every company I had worked with previously to slander me and make stuff up about my person. Telling them not to work with me. I am effectively canceled with every company they talked to. I never worked with flashforge before, therefore they did not talk to flashforge and I was able to receive this printer for review. I'm unable to compare it to the printers you were asking about. By the way Joel telling is massively influential in tHe cOMmuNiTy. It is a cabal trying to control the information you receive. Imagine if you were a company and received a message saying "Don't send any review printers to Design Prototype Test or tHe cOMmuNiTy will never work with you again." Thankfully I couldn't care less. I don't really want to be in the 3D printer review business. So this keeps my detractors otherwise occupied hitting me where they think it hurts. Wasting their time and energy. I'll do a review from time to time but they really don't pay the bills and they take a lot of effort so I'm glad I don't get that many offers.

[@juliusvalentinas]

Who is the idiot joel?

[@design9639]

Good review! +1 for using Rhino! Components that are subject to wear and tear should be easy to access, and replace! Replacement parts shouldn't be expensive to purchase as we don't want to revisit the inkjet printing biz model selling those outrageously priced ink cartridges!

[@wizardfpv7856]

No heated chamber i think q1 pro is a better choice in that price range

[@juliusvalentinas]

But q1 has very bad build quality

[@ZURAD]

Is that link an aff link? I think I'm going to get this for my personal printer and would like to support you if/when I do

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

It is NOT. If you want to support me, please go to patreon. That's the only way besides watching my videos that benefits me directly.

[@ZURAD]

@@DesignPrototypeTest wilco!

[@robbiegrant4977]

Looks OK but 200mm cubed build plate? I want a bigger machine not a smaller one.

[@MaxFenix8k]

You can check the Creality k1C

[@oaba201]

The Z is homing to the bottom? Eh. You should use the P1S for comparison.

[@billkaroly]

There are three machines that pique my interest. The Flashforge 5M Pro $469, the Infimech TX $329 and the beastly QIDI Q1 PRO $469. I think I would prefer the TX over the 5M but the QIDI Q1 Pro has a larger build volume and an active chamber heater. So in my mind the 21 Pro is the winner followed by the TX and second place.

[@AN_Design_3d]

Bambu isn't the only or first core XY, Trident is there, or Legacy is even older

[@oddlytimbotwillison6296]

Well Bambu took a tonne of their innovation from Voron and then Prusa Slicer, so I don't really see a problem with others using their direction.

[@ardi585]

i only buy Flashforge what is bambu

[@andyg6086]

Do not need to turn around to load, just reach over from the front. Simple and easy.

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

Uh huh. And what if I put it on a shelf or rack where space over the top is limited? Filament loading should happen from the front. This was the best I could reasonably do.

[@ksampler6183]

While I find the video and channel very informative, I wanted to make some notes about a couple things. Why compare a $500 printer to a $1100-$1500 printer? You mention with the Bambu printer you *have to* use the cloud, you don't. You can set "LAN Only Mode" and not use any of the cloud stuff. They have also publicly stated that they don't care if you run custom firmware on the printers, you will loose all warranty. (X1C Has a custom firmware available to cut out all of the cloud stuff and add features.) I think that if you actually compared it apples to apples (P1S vs 5M) then it wouldn't come out as far in FlashForge's favor. To me in this video, there is nothing that would compel me to buy a FlashForge over a Bambu or even a similarly priced Creality K1. All I see are downsides to going FlashForge. This comment is not to fight anybody who likes FlashForge over other brands, just trying to share my opinion on it as somebody who has been in the 3D printing world for a while starting on hand built i3 style printers all the way up to just recently purchasing a X1C.

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

If you are only printing using a single filament the 5M pro is undeniably the better choice for the money compared to the X1C. I cannot recommend the P1S because I have no experience with that printer. I do not know if the value is as good as what Flashforge has achieved. As I said in the video I perceive BL as the best Chinese brand of 3D printers. I am saddened that members of tHe cOmMunItY contacted many companies to spread lies about me and cancel me. This effort was successful with BL and they "have no intention of working with Design Prototype Test in the near future." I would love to compare the P1S to this machine. Unfortunately BL has not sent me one to review. Therefore I will compare the flagship Flashforge printer to the flagship Bambu Lab printer.

[@juliusvalentinas]

This not members of community, these are members of communism the modern blogger communism

[@MrHeHim]

Nice breakdown One thing about Flashforge, they don't make bad printers.. and now there at good prices. My first printer was a wooden Flashforge Replicator Dual (MakerBot board inside) from around 2012, has well over 10K hours of print time on it. Although my newer printer that prints at about 6X the speed has defiantly printed more in the last two years I would argue a single pass filter to the outside is a false sense of security, unless its a HEPA filter (there not GF) and that's still letting pass some particulates. i have my filter running enclosed for both my resin and filament printers, and don't turn them off for at least ten minutes after the print is done. Sadly, your nose isn't the best for testing and you have to error on the safe side. About the part cooling. I designed a few part cooling fan ducts, one thing i found with a radial fan that is usually used is that the fins are oriented to accelerate the air and 'throws the air inward making one side of the ducts receive more air. Which is probably why its smaller on one side to give you similar cooling on both sides. Possible it does create a vortex, hard to tell how effective that is unless you have a smoke machine and a slowmo camera while printing all types of geometries Realistically it's just $100 cheaper than the Bambu Labs P1S, with a nicer screen

[@nortonshields8405]

P1s is spy wear

[@ClintonCaraway-CNC]

Your still comparing apples to bananas. Without the AMS you are not even discussing the same class of printing. I don't do multicolor printing but I do absolutely use the AMS for multiple filament support interface. Without at least that option you may as well order a P1P.

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

Unfortunately, I don't have a P1S to compare to. tHe cOMmuNiTy decided to cancel me by contacting all of the companies I had previously worked with, spread lies about me and threaten to not work with them if they worked with me. The response from Bamboo Lab at the moment is "We have no intention to work with Design Prototype Test in the near future." So don't get mad at me for not doing a good comparison. Get mad at the cheating cabal who tries to control the information you are exposed to. Alternately, get mad at Bamboo Lab for caving to the demands from cheaters/liars. I've done nothing to deserve this treatment. I should not be canceled. They just want to maintain their power over you.

[@par2228]

​@@DesignPrototypeTest stop blaiming others for this, first I liked your review but noticed very fast how biased you are to FF and reading the comments cpnfirms this especially where you just blaim "the community" I love seeing reviews of printers but seriusly this blaiming others is just BS and spread mistrust.

[@shredder646]

I had the Flashforge, and I'm sorry but it doesn't come close to the X1 carbon. I have the X1 carbon now, and imo x1 is way better.

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

Why are you sorry? Can you provide any details to support your assertion? Is this an emotional thing?

[@weissefabrik]

the clipper is the same shtty quality as the others...had 3 of these black ones...they all broke the moment I tried to cut a 2,5mm or 4mm cable :DDD

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

I've had one snap on me as well. And it was my favorite one. They don't do a good job of heat treating. I don't think they temper after the heat treatment. So the blades are as hard as they can be which is nice because cheap ones get those little dents in The cutting edge. But a really good pair would be sufficiently heat treated only on the cutting edge. This would maintain ductility everywhere else and they would be less likely to snap when you squeeze them hard cutting thick material.

[@ZZROBProductions]

I got this pinter less than a week again, and already, the filment gear is jammed after 2 prints

[@ZZROBProductions]

Do you know where I can order a new one, I hope they will cover it under warranty

[@shanepearce1629]

i have disassemble a flashforge adventurer 5m extruder

[@TheFeralEngineer]

That there screwdriver is called a pozidriv.

[@jayson8118]

Is it the build plate surface or lack of cleaning it before use that it required glue to get the print to stick. I have never used glue ! I don't know if I would buy the Flashforge but at the same time I wouldn't buy the Bamboo as it could become a far more expensive boat anchor ! Despite people saying they are really reliable ; I have heard just as many complain about them when trying to repair or get good support. Basically pick your poison.

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

All these companies have the same challenges to overcome. Meaning fundamentally the problems you pay face with a 3D printer are independent of the brand you are purchasing. All you are hoping is that the company you bought from did everything right. But try as they might these challenges have a way of asserting themselves. I'm not running a printer farm so I don't print enough to wear any of these printers out. YMMV but be wary of brand loyalty. Nobody makes a perfect product.

[@peterkallend5012]

Yeah, nope. I have both and you're wrong. I did quality tests on both and the adventurer 5m pro just didn't stand up. Even the cost difference doesn't compensate. Don't get me wrong, the flashforge is excellent and I wouldn't trade it in for anything. It's just not even close to the quality and doesn't have the calibration and print defect detection. Flashforge even screwed up their own firmware and made the internal camera useless. They had to do 3 firmware updates in less than a month to fix the issues they created. The Flashforge isn't derivative at all. Also, reading instructions would have clued you into the screws holding the bed in place for shipping.

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

We'll see how this one goes over time. I have had Chinese printers crap out on me after like a month or so. But also there's been a lot of time for them to iron out the kinks. This printer has been released for a little while. The problems you experienced might have been solved in these later production units.

[@kevinbalcer8957]

For the cost of the x1c the flashforge is the better printer for less money. And the print quality is very good

[@peterkallend5012]

@@kevinbalcer8957 trust me, you get what you pay for. The flashforge doesn't compare. Not even close. I can't even print over 270° for filaments it's supposed to be able to print. Have you tried printing in PA or PC? It's got preset loading temps for those materials, and can actually reach those temperatures, but the firmware prevents actual printing because it thinks the maximum print temp is only 270° and gives a hotend temp error. The X1 doesn't have this issue, nor does the P1. That's all the proof you need that it IS NOT a better printer for the money. X1 and P1 also have integrated multimaterial capability that the Adventurer 5M Pro does not have (not talking about AMS either), and it doesn't recognize custom GCode commands. It also has a smaller build volume.

[@peterkallend5012]

@@DesignPrototypeTest nope, it's firmware not hardware. You're supposed to be able to print at high temp with the Flashforge, but it codes out every time on filaments it has presets for. Trust me, you get what you pay for. That's why I bought an X1C after a year of owning the Flashforge. I get much more consistent prints, and can achieve insanely tight tolerances that were just not possible with the Flashforge (even after optimizing every filament setting and slicer setting). Have you ever wondered why no other channel is making the claim you're making? Because it's simply not true.

[@Thadopeera]

Resin is the future of 3D printing I believe in my opinion. I just picked a Phrozen Sonic 8k resin and it blows away anything I print FDM

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

It's not that simple. Resin is equally strong in all three dimensions. It's called isotropic strength. But the underlying polymer is a thermoset. It degrades over time, especially when exposed to UV. So you need to paint your prints with a clear coat to block the UV. FDM prints are non-isotropic. They are weaker in the z direction. However they are generally stronger in the X and y direction compared to resin. Additionally, The thermoplastic used in FDM processes does not degrade as badly over time or when exposed to UV. FDM is a lot more pleasant to play with and requires no cleanup except a little sweeping with your hand.

[@algisberziunas]

good one thnks

[@algisberziunas]

for that print - you even do not need supports at all for this print ..I was testing it can take 80 degree angle no problm

[@algisberziunas]

by the way while printing any pla you can yurn off all m5pro fans exept nozzle it goes fine ....feed lubrications rails and sticker bed..thats it