The ULTIMATE RC Beginners Guide!

[@beyondRC]

This is the longest video i have ever done but i hope its useful to beginners who are getting into or considering the RC Hobby for the first time! I want this to be a video which answers most of the common questions especially around Lipo Batteries as they are one of the most misunderstood things in the hobby with so much conflicting information out there i hope i covered everything in as much details as possible and as easy as possible. This video is a combination of new/old footage over the last 4.5 years i have been doing youtube so you may notice quality/audio changes throughout. As nice as it would be to cover everything again in glorious 4k this would take me weeks to do and essentially the information is still the same nothing has changed! Experienced hobbyists feel free to leave your comments below if you feel there is anything a beginner should really know and i may have missed! Much appreciated! Lots of awesome new reviews coming in the next couple of weeks so stay tuned!

[@radio-controlledcouk]

Electric all the way

[@n00b247]

@@radio-controlledcouk 1/8 buggy/truggy pro sport are the best nitro. .21 .28 .32

[@RC-Closer1313]

Look at that young man… I just realized how long I’ve been watching you sir… you definitely have grown and so has your content 👍🏻👍🏻

[@beyondRC]

Thank you 🙏

[@dab_bod3520]

I'd recommend skipping brushed rcs unless you enjoy working on stuff/wanting to do your own upgrades and go for a 3s arrma.

[@beyondRC]

I’m budget allows I have to agree skip straight to brushless and just turn the throttle rate down until used to the power. Brushed in 2024 is debatable lol

[@MrZig]

Or for a little less money, a 3s ftx apache short course truck, or a ftx vantage buggy. Arrma is awesome too

[@Boogie_the_cat]

I'd imagine brushed to be a hassle for a newcomer. Aside from lack of oomph, they don't last very long. I think RMA-ing a warranty replacement, waiting for the shipment and reinstallation every 4 months (depending on how often you drive) would get old quickly. I'm so glad I read reviews and skipped brushed and saved up more for a 3s Arrma. Then I got tired of funneling money into the platform and now own a TC Kagama. But the 3s Granite taught me how to drive and how to wrench. Great starter truck. Knowing then what I know now, I'd have gone with the Senton 3s for maximum durability. 💪🏽

[@Gerar79]

An option to keep in mind is Team Magic, I have ended up becoming an admirer of the brand. They have cars with very good features at a good price. For example, I have the Team Magic E5, which is a 1/10 brushless monster and the quality-price ratio is very good, it is very hard and fun. One of my best purchases.

[@radio-controlledcouk]

Electric all the way. Things i would add to this video.... safety when using. Insurance and public liability. Warranty and maintainance expectations.

[@frozeyou]

Hi Radio Controlled, oliver. Seeing as you are happy to comment on youtube videos, ironically about warranty, but refuse to provide any form of customer service, i thought this post may prompt you into responding to us... emailed you 3 times over the past 4 weeks about the faults with our purchase.. please respond else we will have to take it to small claims court! shocking service

[@KeithRichardson-n4x]

Keep up the great video content!😊 I have my ultimate RC car the Arrma TLR Typhon, brilliant machine.

[@ChrisNF]

Perth Australia isn’t always easy to find rc cars or parts and ordering online takes ages

[@geoffjewkes6887]

I've had RC for years but I'm only 3 months in to Lipo...... and FINALLY I now understand C rating 😂 so THANK YOU !!!

[@beyondRC]

Hahaha one of the most confusing things out there and so many think higher c is faster/better etc wrong. It’s also a way for batteries companies to make you think you are getting higher performance. It’s shocking how many people don’t know the difference with c ratings even the so called enthusiasts!!! Higher c is favoured if you are pulling some serious power like speed run records etc. for day to day most cases 20-30 is more than enough!

[@geoffjewkes6887]

@@beyondRC you explained it brilliantly !

[@johntrivolt2240]

Good watch, covers the popular options. I've got a fair amount of MJX and Rlaarlo cars but the highlight of the bunch is the 10208. Its been bullet proof so far on 4s and i push it hard. My only small criticism is that they should have called it a truggy as it sits lower to the ground, just like you mentioned. Not a major problem for me though, i think they nailed it for the money

[@brianreardon7700]

Also would you say in terms of storage .. it’s important to know the watt hours of the batteries.. I have mostly spectrum g2s .. I have storage sleeves and boxes from a company called cellbock a few 800 watt hours sleeves and a 1000 watt hours box .. very expensive.. but in terms of lipo storage it’s one of the most important things.. also like you said if you charge properly.. know that every cell should be 3.7-3.8 volts for storage your lipos will like you! Haha

[@n00b247]

The cheapest easiest way to learn is 1/10 Touring Kit Electric (Tamiya TT-02, Spec-R S2, Yokomo RS 2.0). The second cheapest easiest way to get in (the fun way) is offroad 1/10 2wd RTR Electric (Stampede, Rustler, Gorgon, Vorteks). Best to go with both before doing nitro or even brushless. There are 1/18 and 1/16 options, but those are very limited (Mini B, Grom, M18).

[@RK-vw5wp]

I’m looking forward to trying this v2 kit for the mjx 10208 and it’s only £25 It’ll include. Nylon chassis x1 Gearbox cover x1 Front shock mount x1 Rear shock mount x1 Front swing arm with C-hub assembly x1 Rear swing arm with C-hub assembly x1 Tie rod x6 Rear bumper x1 Rear arm code x1 Motor mount x1 Front and rear driveshafts x4 Front skid plate x1 Motor steel gear x1 Center differential large gear x1 Bearing x1 related screws x1 I can’t really say that’s a bad price. Already amazed with the car as my first electric rc. hoping this kit will give it that little extra ground clearance and width.

[@beyondRC]

Not bad at all for the price. Im guessing we will see the RTR v2's soon!

[@harisjaved1379]

Always go with good batteries, my xrt batteries just caught bad fire. I was using stock traxxas 6700 mah batteries with max 5 g2 and it was a bad decision. Also Thank you for this comprehensive guide!

[@Lee-Buskar]

Good to have a review of the basics. I always learn from this. Thank you. 👍🙂

[@beyondRC]

Glad it was helpful!

[@agentbaldy7]

Me and the gang run Tamiya TT02B 17t brushed and we do that to match performance, cheap spares etc and we have great fun racing about. We have brushless 3S trucks buggies etc but always end up pissing about with stupid Lunchboxes and 1/10 buggies! I suppose with RC you need to try before you know what you want, location of use is massive, flat fields WOT are boring af imo We have the persuaders, cars we use to get people into it with us 😁 If you have kids my advice is buy a lunchbox, build it with them, have some fun together, then they can keep it and you have a better idea of what you want next, I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s another lunchbox to have more fun with the kid 🤔 😂 As long as you having fun though you are doing it right ✌️ Great video full of quality advice btw 👍 My 2p is don’t go cheap on a charger! Buy the best you can as soon as you can 🫡

[@beyondRC]

Absolutely 💯 and great advice about charger 👍👍

[@MrZig]

Great video. Although im not a beginner, I wish I'd had this video to watch when I started out. Great content bro 👏

[@beyondRC]

Appreciate it!

[@HooligansMx]

I built a charging station so to speak outside my house just incase something were to happen I don't lose my house and it doubles as storage

[@beyondRC]

If charged correctly it’s very very very rare, incorrect charging and punctured packs are usually the main things that start fires. In the very early days some chargers didn’t have very good safety features built in. These days a lot of chargers notify you of errors. Good practise through 👍😎

[@johnellefa]

I'm shocked the Redcat wasn't Included. As for number 1, idk the amount of people who complained about the steering and handling is a bit concerning. I also remember it being way cheaper than it is now. Ultimately it's a nice spread. Poor ROG1 😂 little fella def needed a spot

[@beyondRC]

Redcat is unavailable for us in the UK and im sure they are limited in other places around the world. Strange i wish they were available here! The ROG1 is a brilliant little truck the only issue is local parts support. For us the hyper go is available locally and with excellent parts support at seriousrc.co.uk. Beginners are almost certain going to break something so all these factors i had to consider.. But that said if people are willing to wait 2 weeks for parts the ROG1 is brilliant!

[@johnellefa]

@@beyondRC I forget often that you're in the UK sorry man. But I guess I'm sorta in the same boat, everything I order has to pass through either the US (usually) and sometimes uk then forwarded to me. So every part I want takes about 2 weeks 😅 and local part support is non existent

[@Prodicalson-q9n]

Really informative video. I got my 1st what I would call "hoby grade" rc car in 2020 during lock down. But what stops me from buying new rc cars is the fact that nearly all the controllers are geared towards right handed operators. I'm one of those people who are probably wired weirdl. I'm right handed, but use the controllers left handed, i.e. the steering wheel on the left.

[@beyondRC]

Check out the noble nb4+ you can flip the wheel around 😉

[@Velocitytoad]

sooo much good information in here. I've ben at this a while and I learned something too. Love how you broke it out too, very helpful. Rlaarlo shipping has definitely improved.. it took 3 days from when my ROG1 arrive from fulfillment. though it did take them about a week to actual send it out. but then my next parts order I put in yesterday already shipped.. so if they can keep the 3 day turn around for me I'm happy with that :)

[@garyz2043]

Mistakes newbies make! Learn to drive! You don't need full power all the time,it's controlable.Also when it is approching,turning left makes it go right. Simple but not for some people. Der, I'm not stupid they say!

[@rcplayground7]

I honestly love nimh packs

[@thefatmanINA]

nice guide bro,love from indonesia

[@Frido1510]

Do you have a link for some of the products you're showing? Especially the screwdrivers :)

[@beyondRC]

www.modelsport.co.uk/product/fastrax-imperial-hex-wrench-set-12984 uk.banggood.com/4Pcs-1_5-or-2_0-or-2_5-or-3_0mm-Titanium-Alloy-Hex-Screwdriver-Tool-Kit-for-RC-FPV-Drone-p-1972170.html?cur_warehouse=CN&rmmds=search

[@Frido1510]

Thanks! :) Great video by the way!

[@beyondRC]

@@Frido1510 Much appreciated!

[@Hendaz89]

I'd recommend a tamiya tto2 learn how to build it once you build it you know how to take it apart aswell as learn how to spray paint that's where I started and I've stuck with the tt02 another thing very easy to upgrade

[@TommyM3]

Greets! 👋🏻 Thanks for this really helpful video and your content overall :) One question: I have nearly all things I need for the hobby (tools, greece, dumper oil, locktide) But today my new arrma gorgon has arrived (such a great looking and driving car😍) and the instructions manual says that after 10 - 15 runs you should remove the motor and re oil the motor shaft bushes with some bush / lightweight oil. I'm a bit confused 🤔 What is light wight oil and where can I get it? Nothing found on Amazon etc...

[@beyondRC]

i think some normal 3 in 1 oil should do it..

[@TommyM3]

@@beyondRC OK, thanks!

[@JustFun-ho6qy]

Might also wanna add that c ratings on lipos are basically utter arbitrary marketing bullshit. I am willing to bet that a modestly rated traxxas 25c lipo is gonna run circles around my 100c zee batteries.

[@beyondRC]

Oh for sure. People think high c ratings means more power even in lower end brushless systems. Incorrect. The electronics will only pull what they need and having a 100c battery in a low powered setup will make no more difference to a lower c battery. What’s worse is even people who spend lots and consider themselves experts in RC also think this is the case! I’m hoping people watching the c rating part of the video realise that it’s just marketing tricks to make you think you are getting higher performance but a lot of the time it’s not the battery but the electronics and gearing that dictate that. In most cases lower c ratings are fine for every day use and rarely is there a case for anything more than 50c unless running some serious high powered speed run setups which pull stupid amounts of power from batteries!

[@FAKE-NAME]

Just trying to get my family into rc do timing of this I'd great. I just ordered two wltoys 124017's one for me and wife and ordered a 124019 for my daughter. Would have went all 124017's but figured for her 1st "hobby grade" rc the 124019 would be fast enough also because it's a bday present I wanted to make sure she didn't get an rc with cogging issues and have to go through return process. That being said I'm really hoping I didn't make a mistake ordering the 124017's because of the version 1 issues hoping I got v2 versions as listed but I don't trust the seller in the slightest they already lied to me trying to tell me there was no version 1 or 2. Is there anything I can visibly tell the difference between version 1 and version 2? Have heard v2 has blue motor mount and blue steering wheel but I'm not sure if that's accurate

[@beyondRC]

That’s accurate the v2 usually come with a blue wheel. There is definitely two versions and it was years ago now that all this took place. Id like to think hardly any v1s are still in existence

[@FAKE-NAME]

​@@beyondRCwas just watching the part on batteries. Didn't mention puffed up lipo batteries. I'm assuming not to use those ones?

[@SebastianLong]

I'm not gonna watch this whole video as I've been in the hobby for years. Currently with 30 from 1/18 scale all the way up to 1/5 scale. What i will say though is for a beginner, a kit is the best option. Though more expensive depending on what electronics you use, diff oils, shock oils, etc etc etc. but here is why. Number 1, they will have to buy all the proper tools and equipment up front and become familiar with the tools so when they do need to repair their RC, they will understand what is required. Number 2, They will have a much better understanding of the RC and what part is what and what to look for and listen for. Number 3, they will know where to get the parts and tools they need for the hobby. Number 4, they will put in more research to figure out what they want to build as they will be spending more initially. Number 5, when the RC breaks they will know exactly where the breakage is and how to fix it. There is plenty more pros but they can all be generalized into one of those 5. The reason i say kits are better for a beginner aside from the 5 things i listed is i see the same questions over and over and over in the forums of questions where if they just simply remove a pinion cover or remove a diff cover could figure out on their own. Ive witnessed people posting videos of the set screw on the pinion coming loose and spinning on the motor shaft and cannot figure it out on their own. They have become too accustomed to just hopping online to get their answer to only have several noobs in the comments giving them the wrong answer and one person whos been in the hobby for several years giving them the right answer. Then all of the sudden they are back in the forums, getting the wrong answers all over again. They become frustrated with the hobby, and all over the set screw on the pinion coming loose (as our example)

[@beyondRC]

Fantastic points! We see it all the time the most basic things that can sometimes be fixed in seconds! Excellent write up 👍

[@butchmeister80]

Get an arrma typhon 3s or an Ftx brushless, started with tamiya didn’t research the hobby or modern rcs then got an Ftx vantage sold that then got the typhon. Still got the lunchbox and built a hornet but the tamiya is junk, get brushless 2/3s mor fun.

[@beyondRC]

Not the biggest Tamiya fan myself i get the nostalgia vibe but there is way more performance to be had from 'Modern' cars!

[@politie_jip112]

mjx are nice to have but are so hard to work on i am trying to get rid of them all they dont really have something special compared to for example a arrma mojave gom and they are made to work and not break instead of handeling and stability

[@brianlangford7278]

Yeeeeeah,the brands get us too,arrma grom for example ,we know the diffs are basically crap and 2 diffs for a $140 car is $70,that's bs

[@itsjase92]

I’m surprised you put the 14210 over the rog1 after your previous video comparing them

[@beyondRC]

Both very good. The mjx is a better choice if in the uk due to local parts support at serious RC. 👍

[@itsjase92]

@@beyondRC ah I just ordered a rog1 but the 14210 has much better part support here (australia), did i make a mistake

[@beyondRC]

@@itsjase92 not at all the rog1 is a very good truck and does drive slightly better compared to the mjx.

[@alexandretempleux6912]

hi what about high c battery like me smc 7600 3s with a 150c ? so far on my trx6 hauler i can do about 4-5h trail and 1h30 on my slash

[@beyondRC]

150c battery on a crawler is insane 😮

[@beman87]

The maverick breaks diffs by just looking at it💩🙈

[@Replayable-sy2nd]

3rd

[@jessicalatex2539]

Gorgons in oz are available.. the next ones fury and vorteks are still to get here.. as for the grom range.. the granite is around but the supply of typhons are non existent... The Mojave has been bumped from month to month to month again and again and again.. still haven't had any enter the country to be stocked by hobby shops...

[@beyondRC]

Availability here in the Uk has got better but prices of parts is still stupidly expensive!

[@scaleworksRC]

Solid content 👌 you pretty much nailed it!🫡