Big 3 Upgrade / Grounding Kit / Earth Grounding (Custom Grounding Kit) | AnthonyJ350

Keep all the electronics in your vehicle happy! In this video I show you how to build a grounding kit from scratch. The Camry where I show you how to build it isn't the "Big 3" because I didn't up grade the alternator wire, but you can carry the theory across and just run a wire to the alternator.
I do show you later in the video examples of other vehicles I've done which DO have the Big 3 done.
#Big3 #Alternator #Ground #Wiring #Bass #SoundSystem #ChargingSystem
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About AnthonyJ350
I am a Mobile Electronics Certified Professional 12 Volt Installer (MECP Certified), Business Management Graduate (KPU), with a Professional Driver's License and a genuine automotive enthusiast who loves working on vehicles and I want to share my experiences with you. The goal is to help other people who can hopefully learn from my unique outlook towards vehicles, experiences and working practices.
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Big 3 Upgrade / Grounding Kit / Earth Grounding (Custom Grounding Kit) | AnthonyJ350
• Big 3 Upgrade / Ground...
ANTHONYJ350
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[@kjb2013]

You are very knowledgeable. Its nice to see someone on here that actually DOES THINGS THE RIGHT WAY. You have great instructions AND reasons why you do what you do. Keep the tutorials coming, many people can benefit!!

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thank you!

[@K-Effect]

You can never have enough grounds!! Did the same thing to my Chevy truck. Works wonders on older cars also. Stock chassis grounds connections will degrade. Road grime interferes with frame ground connection overtime. It's nice to check them over in the summertime. Happy grounds happy car. New heavy grounds just makes a more reliable car even if you don't have a aftermarket sound system. Plus it's easy to do on most cars.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Exactly, electricity takes the least path of resistance. All we're doing is giving it more paths to take. Thanks for the comment!

[@PeterFeederHQ]

I fucking love the logical explanation from this guy OMG. And I love how he demands you to buy a torch if you don’t have one! 😂😂😂😂. If you don’t have one, buy one! 🙌🙌

[@AnthonyJ350]

SraiTdenI Glad to hear you liked the video!

[@Kruilty]

The "BIG THREE" wiring change under the hood. Big Audiofiles running mobile amps etc use this change to beef up power delivery. This is where it gets interesting.....I perform the BIG THREE by NOT REMOVING BUT ADDING IN PARALLEL additional 6 gauge battery cables to the stock small cables running from: 1. The (-) battery to fender ground. 2. The Battery (+) to fuse box feed. 3. Right front cylinder head engine (available threaded bolt) to left shock tower bolt(ie frame connection to engine block) 4. added cable from stock altenator (+) output to Battery (+) post following stock cable. 5. I also beefed up the stock (-) ground run straight run down form the (-) battery post to the frame behind the front left tire at frame. Ok, so I made 5 changes but effectively still falls under the Big Three change rules to follow. You can google Big Three wiring change and see those basic rules to follow or implement. All cables simply doubled up providing an effective 3 to 4 gauge connections. Now, not a bit of head light flicker, voltage maintianed 14.2v charging voltage at all times. But here's what else has occured and what I wanted to share with you. 1. Slightly brighter headlights. 2. Engine starts are far quicker...no lag in starter (Same stock battery BTW) It's more of a snap start vs the ruh..ruh..start. Starter has better power feed even though I did not increase the starter cable feed size. 3. Here's the kicker...I am seeing 1.5 MPG average increase in fuel economy!! I actually had a tank on a long mostly freeway trip to Monterey a couple weeks back get me 18.2 MPG! Otherwise very same drive to work and back. This has to be due to increased power delivery to the ignition system and a stronger spark through those independent coils. Also by doing this you increase the distance of your remote starters. This additional big three wiring done by yourself would cost you about $30.00 tops in cable and dual bolt lug battery lead clamps all available at your local auto store. Just wanted to share this out. I have a photo's of my install. BTW, I'm an EE by trade.

[@yusufjorgenz5951]

Sky high wire comes in first. Rockford wire 2nd and I think JL is 3rd.

[@AnthonyJ350]

That's absolutely correct. Modern transmissions are electronic now and can benefit from this mod. I have it done to my truck but didn't mention it in the video. Great point!

[@morosso1968]

i'm not a pro but i've been to car audio stuffs and your explanations definitely makes sense. and if ever i were about to have an electrical job with my car, i wouldn't hesitate to be done by YOU just in case you're doing it as a job. it's shows how clean and tidy you work and simply tells you know what you're doing. nice video!

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thanks for the comment. If you live in Canada I can do the work for you. I work out of a shop up here.

[@morosso1968]

AnthonyJ350 thanks! but sad to tell i'm not from Canada. just shared your video so that others could learn as well.

[@bigjimmy2225]

and i am 27 and have been putting car stereos in friends cars since i was 15. i also had a job doing lift kits and lowering kits and some car stereo installs. but got hurt and laid off. but still learning the car audio side, to better my skills on it, making it cleaner and better. so just give it a try, it doesn't hurt to do it yourself but not all shops do half ass just some people and if you find somebody that you like request them to work on your car each time so you don't get the newbie.

[@aaronmaruri]

Overall you sir have made the best video for a big three upgrade

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thanks so much for watching! I'm glad you liked it!

[@azthundercloud]

ground your transmission also. you can get the lugs at homedepot. 3/8 #4 guage. crimper you can get at harbor freight. been doing this for over 10 years. it does work !

[@azthundercloud]

@@aaronbecerra3788 better shifts for automatics. just ground the case to chassis.

[@mcroadracer1]

Best exclamation I have heard why to do a wiring upgrade. Well done 👍

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thanks for watching!

[@averyalexander2303]

Great video as always, love your channel! However, I wouldn't say that a valve cover is necessarily a reliable ground because it's often electrically isolated from the engine by the rubber gasket. Even the nuts/bolts that hold it down often don't directly contact the valve cover since they usually have rubber seals around them too. On some vehicles it could work fine, but I'd rather just ground directly to the head or block and remove all doubt.

[@AnthonyJ350]

I agree it's situational and you have to know how your vehicle is put together. Good point!

[@chrisanderson9100]

Goddamn! Are you sure 900 grounds are enough? Better add 900 more, just to be safe. Most of your points are valid but holy shit. As far as manufacturers skimping on wiring to save money, couldn't be more wrong. They're all fighting for fuel efficiency and CAFE ratings. No way in hell are they going to jeopardize losing .0001 mpg to save a couple strands of copper, not happenin. Engines are finely tuned and part of that comes from optimizing EVERY single little resource, including vehicle electrical and networking of various modules.

[@AnthonyJ350]

My point wasn't they were trying to conserve weight. Copper is just playing expensive so if they can minimize how much they use, they're going to save a lot of money.

[@Kruilty]

Auto makers use the cheapest wire they can find. It's all about saving weight and those CAFE ratings. But as an EE, The less V-Drop, heat loss ( energy), in any system is always a good thing. Especially for MPG. Look at it this way, with the added bigger cables, everything runs cooler. Less resistance means less heat. WE all know that running cooler makes more power

[@eriksayer884]

Kruilty I couldn't disagree more. I have torn into many factory wiring harnesses and I can honestly say that the OEM insulation and wire will take much more heat and abuse than about anything else.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Did you watch the rest of the video where I show other vehicles where I did the alternator wire like on my truck? Cause I understand I only did the grounds on the first car, but I do show other examples. My grounding kits have to be good, I welded studs on to the frame and cab of the rear of the truck! Like who does that???

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thanks for the feedback, it's much appreciated. I'll have some motorcycle videos coming down the pipes soon, since I just put one together recently :D

[@AnthonyJ350]

I agree but for most people this is more than enough for the avg daily driver. I didn't show all the grounds on my truck but I'll list them. I grounded each cylinder head to frame, front of cab to frame, rear of cab to frame, transmission to frame, exhaust to frame, battery to frame and block. I didn't bother with the tb and yes mine is electronically controlled. I think i did a proper "overkill" set up, beginners would just get bombarded, so I show you the basics and you go from there.

[@AnthonyJ350]

For Brent Terry since they have their reply setting on restricted. All we're doing is preventative maintenance and allowing electricity to take the least path of resistance. So if you have an aluminium valve cover it will be able to conduct from the head of the fasteners (if they're touching the metal) and flow to the cylinder head. Each application will vary. I believe the ground you're refer to is the one on the Civic. And I actually replaced a factory ground. So the engineers at Honda put that there, I just put a better wire on.

[@anthonytaylor828]

The valve cover does not touch the head anywhere... It is separated by a gasket, and the fasteners are separated by their own o-rings... Makes little to no sense to ground to the valve cover

[@AnthonyJ350]

Anthony Taylor Why does Honda do it in plain site on 1996-2000 Civics? Cause last time I checked Honda has some of the best engineered motors.

[@anthonytaylor828]

+AnthonyJ350 that vehicle was a toyota wasnt it?... Honda does it to ground sensors in the valve cover, the ground you added would in no way affect the spark plugs because their grounded component(cyl head) in no way makes metal to metal contact with the valve cover

[@AnthonyJ350]

Anthony Taylor Every vehicle is different. I do a continuity test and I test for resistance to see if there is any ground to begin with and if there has been any improvement. I don't show that step because it's over people's heads that are new to this. My theory is based on what I find stock on other vehicles. Look at the valve cover on a 1996-2000 Civic, front on the driver's side.

[@anthonytaylor828]

+AnthonyJ350 im not saying that you dont know what youre doing man... Im just pointing out that you are incorrect in saying that a ground to the valve cover (in ANY vehicle) will in some way help the spark plugs, yes it will help sensors mounted to the metal valve cover, just not the spark plugs like you mention... To help the plugs, a direct ground to the cyl head needs to be made

[@dungdoan9830]

After I install the 4 gage big 3 ,the engine idle down faster even on cold starts 👍👍

[@AnthonyJ350]

That's awesome to hear!

[@AnthonyJ350]

Yes, the solder I use has a rosin core typically.

[@wadeparker8695]

Really a pleasure to watch you bro I’m learning a lot thank you 😎🍀👍🏼

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thanks so much! I have more updated videos on topics like this where I think I do a better job lol kzbin.info/www/bejne/o5y6dKSJm9dpn8k

[@AnthonyJ350]

@WHALEHUNTERGATHERER Well I don't really plan on making another video like this for a while. Like the video shows, you go from negative terminal on the battery to chassis, motor to chassis and alternator to the positive terminal. You just have to find bolts on the motor and chassis that aren't really doing anything and hook them up.

[@charleswilson4598]

I don't have a big amp in my truck and I don;t spend a lot of time researching articles like this, but I was employed as an electronics installer for over 30 years so these things catch my interest. Since I have a standard Ford pickup truck without any amps or special electronics, and my truck has run fine for 278,000 miles, I don't see the need for any electrical improvements. I have read the comments about how these grounding improvements can help the engines run better, transmissions shift better, etc. But to me these are just " guy next door" theories, i.e. opinions. Until I see the engineering data and tests that can be measured , it is all just a theory to me. Maybe there is data. I just haven't seen it. Interesting video though.

[@AnthonyJ350]

I usually use left over power wire from amplifier power kits. So it tends to be oxygen free and a high strand count.

[@alecbrown5036]

I understand that it can benefit any vehicle but mainly performers for audio, but CARS SHOULD COME LIKE THIS!

[@AnthonyJ350]

They should, but it's a cost savings thing. Copper is expensive so vehicles are built to "good enough" standards.

[@GlycerinZ]

I agree. However from a car manufacturer perspective, if it costed even an extra few bucks, it adds up when you're making 50,000 cars. That would be an extra $150,000

[@alecbrown5036]

Glycerin I agree, I guess you just gotta look at the bigger picture

[@AnthonyJ350]

I leave them on because keeping them on won't hurt. Electricity will take the path of least resistance, so if I have more paths it has more options.

[@guidelineuk]

Thanks for the heads up!: ) I'm going to do the job tomorrow.

[@madjimms]

You should heat the ring terminal from the BACK while applying the solder to the opposite side to reduce the amount of lead vapor.

[@mcheng102]

Wow! Talking about total extreme wiring system! Love it! Great info! Thanks! Thumbs up!

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thanks!

[@AnthonyJ350]

It can't move though, you've created an already solid mechanical connection by crimping it in the vice. it's crushed in the vice first, then soldered then lightly held again in the vice for a heat sink. If I only soldered it I would see your point, but in that time frame the solder has solidified enough you can cool it. I have never had a cold solder joint doing it like this. In a high volume environment, you have to go as fast as possible, make it ultra reliable and make it look good.

[@AnthonyJ350]

It would be a good idea to. That way the cooling fans can't turn on while you're working under the hood, if you have electric fans.

[@AnthonyJ350]

No I haven't upgraded the alternator yet. I plan to put a high output unit on soon (200 amps).

[@adamlee007]

Just got this upgrade done to my car...dual 12" JL w3 woofers...600 watt slash amp...all installed by Anthony at visions electronics in surrey. I didn't get the big 3...or grounding upgrade then. Wow what a difference this made...My lights no longer dim or flash on the large bass lines...I also DEFINITIVELY heard a difference in sound. Id say easy 10%-15% harder bass hits. I didn't know how much of a difference the big 3 does...anyone doing any kind of sound system of good quality...get lots of dynamat...and upgrade your grounding...the big 3 is the best upgrade ive done to my system hands down. Go see Anthony at Visions in surrey.

[@trujay2]

i was told from a mechanic to ground the alternator with atleast 4 gauge, wich means id have 2 big batt grounds, big alt ground, and big alt positive. partly to keep the big dry cell from draining when the car is off, and to have a ridiculous amount of flow

[@AndrewChan84]

The room temperature resistance of these aftermarket ground wires is still lower than the stock ones. Not to mention during high current loads, wires with higher resistance take up voltage, and voltage drops at the load. "the resistance change is almost nothing from these size wires" We are spending money on lower resistance, that's the whole point. Wire rating gives you an indication of resistance, the smaller, the higher ohms it has, and the more energy it dissipates during high loads.

[@01sidiropoulos]

Very professional stuff big 👍👍👍

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thank you!

[@AndrewChan84]

The resistive losses in the wires are equivalent to I(square)R. Also, the voltage at the load will be less than the source whenever a high current flows through thin wires. Electrical engineers in car companies balance between performance, reliability, cost, and marketing strategy. And that means there will always be room for cheap aftermarket performance improvements.

[@nathanrice1796]

Rule #1 of electrical theory: you can never have too good of a GND.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thanks for the comment!

[@AnthonyJ350]

Sorry to hear that, cause I work at a shop. That's why I know this stuff cause I practice it every day.

[@justmax9811]

I went from like 14 gauge to 0/1 gauge on my car with the big 3 and I love it loves good to

[@TrendyKidzProduction]

Nice analogy with the straw bit.

[@c4prlm4st3r]

Thanks man. Just need some more info. I also don't want to take out the original harness. Will done it soon. Thanks a lot.

[@jasonv31]

Those that were talking about buying a high dollar HO alternator (or saying how they can't afford one), you can look in your area for a alternator / starter shop, especially major cities all have them. They do a lot of work with heavy equipment and large truck alternators and they can also do a HO alternator for you, normally for alot cheaper than buying one new. I did a 200amp one in my old Nissan truck, pulled a GM alternator out of a junk yard, got a upgraded stator and windings from him (something else too can't remember) all that was less than $200, I think it was $175 total. Hope this helps someone... :-)

[@jasonbobinger5215]

Valid point, but that isn't always the case. Obviously it depends on if a car can accept a different model alt. In my situation, I cannot get an upgraded alt unless I buy one. My alt case isn't big enough for a modified stater and rotor. My ex-brother-in-law owned a alt rebuild shop. I did the wire portion of the "Big 3" because of a relatively significant voltage drop. Another option is to see if the rebuild shop can modify an existing alt. I had mine changed into a single wire alt, and have no problems at all.

[@NeoB-Lac]

Cold soldering, heat at the bottom and apply at top also use flux

[@AnthonyJ350]

Solder has flux built into it.

[@FEETLE]

Serious video.!!! and its was very instructive ..seeing other how to ..they buy such a high-res cam and then either have studdering or grammar issues then the purpose is defeated

[@AndrewChan84]

resistance change dramatically when wires heat up ;D

[@biggermal1]

I guess making sure the wiring and connections are in good condition is a good idea . When people upgrade their alternator , they should find out what what the power requirements of all the additional amplifiers from the manufacturer , and other units , so they have the correct size alternator , which does it comfortably , but not too big . The rule of thumb is , the bigger the alternator , the more power is needed to drive it . This will impact fuel economy . I guess you guys already know this !!!!

[@cuttabutter5050]

Your Milkshake Straw comparison makes it so easy to explain why i changed my wires to my fat ass friends 😂😂

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thanks for watching!

[@igbross7235]

Who are all that people who put the dislike marks on this nice video? Are they gods and they can show us a better video or are they just always dislike? :)))

[@AnthonyJ350]

I'd only replace them if they're too corroded. If they're good I leave them in. Electricity will just take the path of least resistance anyways, so more is better in my opinion.

[@olechuga2]

Sir, it is my opinion only, that if you had "fluxed" your wire before you crimped it in the vise, the solder used would have "runned" and "coated" your target wire faster, and even would have made you a better electrical connection overall.

[@qtpuy1]

grounding kit is best to install for old cars having corroded wires and specially for vehicles that have sound setup or HID lights.

[@AnthonyJ350]

@cookerbullock No problem! Ya think of it like preventative maintenance/ slash electronic improvement for the 12 volt system :)

[@Rooey129]

yes but were talking about huge temperatures like 30+ degrees which wont happen in a car unless the wire is below the rating of on the engine, ect.

[@AnthonyJ350]

I would definitely upgrade the big 3 as well.

[@AnthonyJ350]

I thought I did... Yes I usually leave the old wires intact unless they're damaged or too corroded, then I replace.

[@NotoriousZNT]

Great video! Very informative, can't wait to make my own grounds for my supercharged type R!

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thanks for watching! Let us know how it turns out.

[@azthundercloud]

you might want to do a series ground. frame to battery, to head, to block, to transmission, to chassis ground. you can get connectors from home depot. #4 guage 3/8 inch lug. been doing this for years.

[@Daoldhead51]

Thanks i have a 96 lumina with a system that can benefit from every mod i can find.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Glad the video helped!

[@nekolin]

not many do but a grounding kit involves grounding the block, alt, transmission, tbody, and frame twice in either a two line or loop formation and in modern racing is very important to have it done in that way along side a big3 also its usually better to ground transmission to block to tbody then to the frame as for you big 3 you did great on it but you should do a proper gkit to protect your electronics and help you truck perform better

[@nanums650]

Sorry I was soooo wrong, you were rite sir I saw the links and thanks for sharing the links with me

[@AnthonyJ350]

+OMG ITS FUFU FuFu Productions What's wrong with them though, I'm curious about your take on it.

[@devinlasher3515]

+AnthonyJ350 Keyboard warriors.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Devin Lasher I know, everyone is a professional. But then you see the work they do compared to you... Why can't everyone just be nice and try to learn from one another???

[@devinlasher3515]

+AnthonyJ350 because this is the internet

[@iREPda609]

The only benefit is to allow the alternator to keep the voltage sufficient across your car's electrical system. People who have a high demand for power (large amps, tons of lights) will experience headlight dimming and other problems which this can alleviate.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thanks for the comment!

[@AnthonyJ350]

Also the need to increase current carrying capacity is a worth while upgrade because a lot of people are adding a lot aftermarket 12 volt devices that could benefit from the upgrade i.e. amplifiers, auxiliary lighting, aftermarket head units, etc

[@herman023]

Credible install shops i doubt. They usually charge an arm and a leg and do a half ass job. I probably have a better shot at watching this video while i try it on my own lol great vid man

[@AndrewDiaz1404]

I do know that after I did a grounding kit on my car it made my headlights and interior lights stay bright. My headlights would dim whenever I used any electrical load like rolling down my window. My OEM grounding was not enough.

[@AnthonyJ350]

If you replaced every ground you took out no, I don't see any problems, because you're not taking anything away. What kind of vehicle is it though, because some of the newer cars have really sensitive computers.

[@herman023]

Yeah you're right. I have never given the shops around me a shot. I only said it cause of what ive heard. Ive had tons of friends that have gone and have had bad experiences but i should try it out. I just dont want it to come back and bite me in the ass.

[@AndrewChan84]

The alternator runs parallel with the load but the wires run in SERIES with the load, therefore any impedance in the wires will cause a voltage drop at the load. 14.4V is across both wire and load! This is basics. Like I said, a 2-3 milli Ohms difference in the wires will cause a 0.2-0.5V drop in at the load if it's running at 1000W. "Energy is still not Power but can be used to calculate it." Exactly, you'll want to preserve both since they are proportional to each other.

[@1PARADOXXX]

You can totally sell these wires as kits. ive been looking everywhere on the internet for a ground kit for my honda civic and cant seem to find one

[@raza8560]

Great video, very informative!

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thanks for watching!

[@paulzy924]

wow, Squeezing the wire in the vice that hard causes the strands in the wire to break and reduces the current it can pass. A+ for soldering but squeezing it in the vice after you have soldered will fracture the solder joint and cause cracks... Also i hate those wire boots! Heat Shrink FTW !! Otherwise great video man and yes grounding is very important, Car manufactures use the absolute minimum to save on costs.

[@dumass00072]

I'd definitely pay attention to the wire insulation properties. Mainly how well it holds up to heat and chemical exposure. Yea i'm nitpicking but it's best to start with good habits. I'd be paying more attention to making sure the connections to the chassis will be "protected from corrosion"(yea it's late and that doesn't sound correct but you get what i'm saying). A 1000ft 4awg wire at 20°C has a Res. of 0.2485Ω . A 10awg wire is 0.9989Ω . A corroded connection? Who knows but i'll bet it's >1Ω

[@irvanhermawan]

should we disconnect the negative from the battery first before connecting the new ground cable to points we want to put ?

[@Kruilty]

To add to your "theories" mentioned in the video: Coming at the problem from a different angle...have to make lots of assumptions but bear with me; we'll try to find the best scenario for this mod. 8 feet of factory 6 gauge copper wire is being fed 160 amps and 14 volts. That gives us: Voltage drop: 1.01 Voltage drop percentage: 7.21% Voltage at the end: 12.99 Vdrop = IR, so 1.01 = 160xR , R= 0.0063 ohms Typical car alternator output is 70 amps so peak numbers would indicate: IE=W, so 70 amps x 14 Volts = 980 watts, divide by 55% efficiency (980+539)= 1519 watts. One watt is .00134 HP, thus 1519 x .00134 = 2.035 HP. Now treat the 8 ft of wire like an electric heater, how many watts is it wasting in heat? P (watts) = I^2 (amps) x R (ohms). We get 160 watts. Again say alternator is 55% efficient, we get 290 watts or 0.4 horsepower. Not impressive at first, BUT: Rolling Resistance is typically 1% for every 1000 pounds of vehicle weight on level ground traveling at a speed of 25 MPH. Or 1.5 HP for each 1000 pounds of vehicle on level ground. Thus a 5500 pound vehicle would require a minimum of 8 Hp. In reality, there is efficiency loss in the transmission etc... call it 80% efficient drive-train, so we need 10 hp to roll along at 25 mph. 0.4Hp is 4% of 10Hp My scenario here makes a LOT of assumptions but I don't think it would be unreasonable to think gas mileage could improve up to 4% in the best conditions. It would be less than that in the real world. Use more load on the alternator or drive faster and that 4% will go down fast, because a greater portion of engine output is being used for locomotion instead of heating up your wires.

[@deschene12]

all of your math is very interesting and I'm not saying that any of it is wrong but it is completely moot, your alternator is connected to your crankshaft pulley and you need it to charge your battery, the gauge of wire that you use has zero effect on gas mileage because your alternator is always going to have a parasitic draw on your motor and as stated earlier it's kind of required for operation of your vehicle.....

[@walterderijk9598]

Kruilty ...8 feet AWG 6 copper conductor have 3.22 mOhm resistance. When current of 160 A. Is flowing thru this wire, the voltage drop in the wire is 160x3.22=516 mV....just 0.516 Volt.....only half the amount in the vid.....taken from 13.6 V., this is 3.8% in that one wire only........regards

[@Rooey129]

As you can see I did the math for a 2000w system at 14.4v which is 103.68 milliOhms. Also the voltage regulator stabilises the voltage at 14.4v which voltage is the potential difference between the positive and the ground and as it is run in parallel with the load which is why the voltage stays at 14.4v when you measure the voltage. P = E/t has nothing to do with the equation we have not mentioned the duration or the energy involved. Energy is still not Power but can be used to calculate it.

[@AnthonyJ350]

I'd say 100 bucks is fair. That would be labour and providing wiring and connectors. Unfortunately copper ain't cheap.

[@ahumm8280]

Excellent vid!

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thank you!

[@ahumm8280]

It just dawned on me that I had to make some similar mod repairs on a few of the trucks that I work on, guess the maker! 😅

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@ahumm8280 Chevy? Did you see my ground video for those trucks?

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@ahumm8280 kzbin.info/www/bejne/eqLPYYirbZKGhM0

[@ahumm8280]

@@AnthonyJ350 Nissan-UD is the truck I was talking about because the engine to chassis cable and battery to chassis connections go to crap just like the nissan and infiniti cars. My Tahoe was totalled back in January so Im about to click the link and reminisce.

[@THEactualJkinc88]

The nissan 200sx i have that i bought recently already is 0 gauge grounded to the strut mounting surface so one less thing i have to do plus i just changed the alternator i just have to clean up the negative battery ground some.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Bluepoint. I got mine from SnapOn.

[@AndrewChan84]

So the conclusion is, if you can even reduce 2-3 milli Ohms in your ground wires, it will be enough to prevent a 0.2-0.5V drop on a high wattage load above 1000Ws. Regardless of temp.! Therefore this is a very valid modification.

[@AnthonyJ350]

If you still experience that problem you'll have to step up your alternator. What kind of vehicle is it and what kind of system are you running?

[@Pabula]

Thanks for sharing thsi video, really learned about the big3 =)

[@AnthonyJ350]

Glad it helped!

[@AnthonyJ350]

I just leave the old one in there if it's in good condition. Electricity will just take the path of least resistance.

[@jaymoto600]

oh yea I don't think my wires are corroded so ill just leave em there probably gonna do it in spring so it aint so cold lol winter sucks

[@Rooey129]

Alright but you can still calculate this: Assuming we have a 2000w system on 14.4 v and 10ohms at 20 degrees and the copper in the 0AWG wire goes to 80 degrees R = (V^2) / P R = (14.4^2) / 2000 R = 0.10368 Ohms R = 103.68 milliOhms R = R0 * [1 + α (Tf - Ti)] R = 0.10368 * [1 + (3.9 * 10^-3) * (80 - 20)] R = 0.12794112 ΔR = 0.12794112 - 0.10368 ΔR = 0.02426112 ohms The total difference = 24.2611 milliOhms = Not Huge PS: "the more energy it dissipates during high loads", E = m * c^2 not V * I

[@AnthonyJ350]

I'd ask them to see pictures of previous work, they should offer lifetime warranty on their workmanship, and see how they keep their facilities. Those should all be indicators of how they do their work.

[@AnthonyJ350]

4 ga. will be more than sufficient for your application.

[@JeramieCurtice]

Add dielectric greese to all connections before tightening for best conductivity and corrosion prevention.

[@charlesrutherford4785]

Wrong!! Dielectric grease is not conductive and should only be used to prevent corrosion. It can be applied AFTER the metal-to-metal connection is completed.

[@madcratebuilder]

@@charlesrutherford4785 You can get copper infused grease for this application.

[@AnthonyJ350]

I sell them locally as custom applications.

[@RAWasFORK]

4 guage will run up to 150amps? how much can 0 guage run

[@victoresteban26]

eyi mann wheres ur shop u know ur stuff unlike others

[@Rooey129]

Wire rating is to protect the insulation from melting due to the heat from the current not to remove resistance, the resistance change is almost nothing from these size wires

[@AnthonyJ350]

I usually just add on unless the factory wire is severely corroded. That way you have more wire and electricity will just take the path of least resistance.

[@dem1177]

@AnthonyJ350 very well done vid, very informative specially for a novice like me! just a quick question regarding wires (since you mention you can use welding wire), can i use 200amp wires from a jumper cable/lead? i found them to be also thick and high amperage. thanks in advance!

[@AnthonyJ350]

You could, I assume it's 4 gauge?

[@dem1177]

@@AnthonyJ350 yes its 4awg for the 200amp.. there is a 2awg with 400amps

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@dem1177 4 gauge is more than adequate

[@dem1177]

@@AnthonyJ350 thanks! your definitly right.. as i am gonna be using only my stock headunit and speakers.

[@AnthonyJ350]

True but when you design manufacture a vehicle for profit they one put on wiring that's the bare minimum in order to save costs on all the copper.

[@jaymoto600]

so your just adding the ground could you just replace the existing ground with the bigger gauge wire or you wouldn't recommend that

[@09BertoSS]

Si if you wanted to ground the alternator, you'd run a wire from it to the positive terminal ?

[@AndrewChan84]

No need for E=m*c^2. We are doing classical physics here. P=(I^2)*R is the energy dissipated on a load. BTW, 10ohms is ridiculously high for a ground wire, or ANY wire, lol 24 milli Ohms is actually quite high. On a 2000W load, @ 14.4 V and 138 A (P=VI) and a 104 milliOhms load (V=IR), having an increase in 24 milli Ohms will result in a 2.7V drop at the load! (24/104+24)*14.4=2.7. If your wires alone have 24 milliohms at room temp. running a 2000W load, you'll lose 2.7 volts at the load! LOL!

[@lutalutamedia]

compression fit connectors are much better.

[@LifeSized101]

Is there any disadvantages when the battery is in the trunk (chrysler 300c). How to please.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Having the battery far from the alternator, the vehicle is more susceptible to getting "engine noise" when doing a sound system. I would still ground the motor at the front and throw a thicker ground from the battery to chassis in the back of the vehicle.

[@AnthonyJ350]

@WHALEHUNTERGATHERER Sounds good dude!