Don't make this WIRING MISTAKE on newer GM Trucks RVC (Regulated Voltage Control) | AnthonyJ350

[@baybiboy1]

OMG!!!! THANK YOU! I have been battling my 13' Escalade for 4 weekends straight. I've been doing car audio for 20 yrs, so I'm not new to the scene. But when this Esky stomped me I was about to give up, and rip it all out (literally, frustrated 👿👿👿). I did the big three and all, and still when my auto door locks, windows, even horn operate, the amp, shut off. I was about to take it to the shop or give up and sell my skar rp2000.1. When I passes the big 3 ground wire through the sensor BAM amp stays on. Should have known it was a sensor. My BMW's have the same smart alternator. Your info should be made a sticky on a forum some where. Thanks a bunch!!!!!!😁😁😁😁💯💯💯

[@AnthonyJ350]

That's awesome so glad to hear it helped! This is probably the most relevant feedback so far as to how important it is to pass through the sensor. Thanks for sharing!

[@billyogg8199]

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[@baybiboy1]

Update: My Esky amp still had problems after passing the cable through the sensor. It did help keep my charging voltage steady but, my amp still kicked out. I fought this for 5 weekends straight!!!! 😠 😠 My problem was with preamp voltage to amplifier (skar rp2000) itself. I used a PAC PDLC81 line converter because i kept my stock head unit. To make a story short, the preamp voltage was to high for the amp recommendations. When installing a line converter, make sure the preamp voltage it outputs matches the amplifier you're pushing. Hope this helps someone.

[@gueroburban4989]

Wow just found out about this did the big 3 can I just run negative battery wire next to sensor from battery to chassis I have a 2007 suburban gmt 900??

[@baybiboy1]

@@gueroburban4989 Hey buddy. You have to run it inside the current sensor as it's the only way to measure the voltage / amperage. That way the vehicle can regulate the amount of current draw for the alternator to increase or decrease the output of itself. Hope this helps.

[@toronadogofast7868]

This is a great video. I do a lot of voltage issues on transit coaches. We were having a lot of no starts in the lot. Kept looking at voltage drop and changed all of the positive cables and grounds to the batteries. We were running 300amp 50DN alternators. And was losing 50 amps from the alternator to the batteries. The final fix was a ground from t h e alternator case to the frame ground. Even the there was ground straps from the engine to the frame it wasn't enough. Most of the high breed vehicles monitor the ground side just like this. Don't know how many times the ground side was the issue. Like all of your videoś I have watched. Great job!

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thank you! Definitely ground body to frame front and rear and ground the cylinder heads to frame and body.

[@frederickwolford3254]

The best I've seen so far, less talk and show's more troubleshooting and research with out standing results, thank you.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thank you for watching! Glad the video helped 🙂

[@tomgreen1423]

I am soooo glad I found your video. Unfortunately I wish you would have made this 5 yrs ago, lol. I ruined an AGM battery because I didn’t follow this advice. What I did was unplug the sensor and lived with it. I monitored the voltage with a plug in meter. I averaged 14 volts, BUT just because you have 14v, doesn’t mean that your CPU is “happy”. I watched this video initially at work and went outside and basically “undid” the Big 4 (not 3). Going to hook up the way your doing it with upgraded 1/0. I am confused on where ALL of your upgraded grounds are mounted. From the Mechman diagram, I see upgraded ground going through the sensor from alt mount to battery, but is that ALL that the grounds they are recommending? Awesome channel...I subscribed!!

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thanks! Ya my grounds go to frame, cylinder heads and body.

[@tomgreen1423]

AnthonyJ350 All from battery? Or does one go from battery to alt bracket, then from alt bracket to the other places you just said ?

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@tomgreen1423 other places just go straight to frame. Your 0 ga to frame will then take over.

[@tomgreen1423]

So unplugged I get a solid 13.5-13.7 with a decent system (1200 watt). What is the harm of ~13.5 consistently ? Older vehicles do it....I dont think older vehicles putting out this many volts go through any more batteries than this GM logic. Now I’m not arguing...just asking

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@tomgreen1423 Older vehicles charge at 14.5 typically so you're at the lower end. When the system sees the battery over 80% state of charge it will go to 12.9ish. Remember headlight mode is 14.5 and fast charge is around 15. I would just leave it plugged in and upgrade the grounds.

[@collinmcballin]

You saved the day man! All these unprofessional forums without a solid answer. This is exactly what I was looking for, regarding my 05 Tahoe with a gnarly sound system. Thanks for the clarity, thanks for staying humble along with the great context of words. So stoked! Can't wait to dial this thing in.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thank you so much for watching, I'm glad the video helped you. You might also want to watch my Mechman video to help with your sound system. kzbin.info/www/bejne/q6vGh4OZocmpeLc

[@AnthonyJ350]

Also cleaning the grounds upgrading will help you as well kzbin.info/www/bejne/eqLPYYirbZKGhM0 Don't forget to subscribe!

[@collinmcballin]

@Travis Hamler pretty basic. Just 2 batteries, all double grounded with big 3. 1/0 Guage for everything, all OFC of course. ORIGINAL 160a bosch alt LOL. 3 amps of course. -Just ran 1 wire though the sensor. 8ga Powering skar 240rms class a/b for mids and high in the pillars, which also splits off to MiniDSP and signal wiring. 1/0 goes back; splits to nvx 900wrms class d midbass amps for mid drivers..... And other half to nvx 1000 rms class d for my SI-SQL 12". All amps double grounded as well. Stays above 13v all the time, no dimming, no speaker whine etc. Interior and engine bay looks stock, everything hidden hahaha

[@MikeMcChiken]

It sounds like you got an upgrade alternator and are still using the sensor . I saw this sensor on my first install in this truck . I was wondering what it was for . Glad I found this video . Thanks

[@AnthonyJ350]

Glad to hear the video helped!

[@sean.g4516]

@@AnthonyJ350 what year models does this apply to?

[@bwizzle4194]

​@sean.g4516 If you look real close at the top of the screen hes pointing out it says "2005 and up."

[@UpTheIrons72]

THANK YOU FOR THIS!!!! I did the "Big 3" and completely forgot to put the GBCM (Generator Battery Control Module) on any of the grounds. Battery life was awful - for obvious reasons. Still forgetting and not even knowing about the GBCM, I dropped a 3300A XS Power battery and a Mechman 260a (I think, maybe 240A, with the stock being 80A) alternator. Still horrible. I thought the alternator was bad. Tested the stock, everything seemed fine. Nope. The first time it got cold, I'd have a dead battery. I mean 8 volts dead. I resorted to changing the battery at night via a charger. I even changed the battery. The XSPower battery has been sitting in my basement for a year and still has a 14-volt charge, so not a battery issue. Then I found the GBCM lying, plugged into the harness, but near the battery. I looked it up. Aha! I ran a ground-wire through it, and again, things seemed ok. Suddenly, however, I'd get 15.5 charging at the start (Via voltmeter and OBDC) and dropping to as low as 11 volts after the engine ran for a while. Several people claiming to be mechanics said it was normal. Nope. It turns out, I had wired everything the same way, Big ground to the Engine, Big ground to the frame, and moderate ground to the body. There's no way the GBCM can accurately monitor battery usage with all the extra grounds. Unplugging the GBCM will put the alternator in its default charge mode using the voltage regulator to simply charge at 14 volts. I get the battery light, but it charges. The battery won't hold a charge, even after manually charging it, as soon as the charger registers 13.6 volts and shuts off, the battery tests at 11.5 volts. Letting it sit for a couple of hours, and it drops to 10v, so It's definitely bad. I ordered a new GBCM (These are like finding crystal clear diamonds - super hard to come by as no one uses these past 2012, I believe). I got the replacement in, replacing the ground with the engine as I realized it's not 0 gauge, instead 0/4 gauge. 0 gauge insulation, 4 gauge wire, and I will be putting both the Mechman alternator and the XSpower battery back in. it 5 degrees out and I don't have a garage, so it may wait a few days. At the end of the day, these GBCM modules were put in to supposedly save fuel. It'd turn the alternator off if the battery's charge was sufficient to keep everything running without charging. The problem is, it didn't save that much, and many mechanics have no idea what these are, so they throw parts at it until giving up, saying the ECM and/or the BCM is bad. Thanks again for posting this video!

[@AnthonyJ350]

You're welcome!

[@everettluxton8201]

I always thought that I made things more complicated than they should have been,, but I wouldn’t have thought there would be reason for a meter o n the neg. Side to control the voltage to the battery. It makes sense now and I see it as a very simple but brilliant idea Thanks for bringing it to my attention and for making an exceptional production.y

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thanks for watching!

[@zacharydunn4779]

Getting ready to install a system in a 2013 tahoe. I installed a 350 amp alternator that's a 4 pin and installed a Mechman 2 pin module and the 4 pin connector has 1 + wire that you install on any wire ignition turn on. Ran to injector. With a inline fuse. Recently installed big 3 kit Haven't gotten that far yet to try. Getting new batteries at the moment. Thanks for sharing your post

[@AnthonyJ350]

Let us know how it goes after!

[@JeffBryant]

Had just installed a JL 1000 watt amp. I didn't upgrade under the hood. Just ran 4 gauge for the amp. Sounded great and dimmed the hell out of the lights. 3 weeks later I went to roll up the window and my amp shut off. Still had power to it but no output. I returned the amp for another but was waiting to put it in until I did the upgrade. I have a 2011 silverado. Glad I found your vid cause I would have done it wrong and possibly fried another amp.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thanks for watching! You might also need to upgrade the battery.

[@stephenwhite5444]

Did this solve your problem?

[@JeffBryant]

@stephenwhite5444 I shipped the Amp back and got a new one sent to me. I ended up not upgrading the grounds under the hood. Got a capacitor and it has really helped. No more dimming the lights.

[@rl4889]

​@@JeffBryant what size capacitor did you get ? Ty

[@RockNational22]

Thankyou for this video!!!! It’s almost NOTHING out here explaining how to do Big 3 with the sensor!! Great information and detail!!!

[@AnthonyJ350]

Glad to hear the video helped you 😀

[@JohnyComeLately]

Just planning my upgrade to try and get rid of the headlight dim when the bass hits, and I thank you for this info.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Your welcome! I would also upgrade the grounds to help with current flow for the whole vehicle.

[@christianperspective9527]

Yes it will charge the battery more fully which will make the truck run better. It has to do with the spark plugs grounding back to the battery. The battery is actually a condenser for the high voltage coil circuit. Also higher available voltage will charge the coils better. Also when passing multiple ground wires through the load sensor make sure they are all going in the same direction otherwise they will cancel each other.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thanks for the comment!

[@alexcucho1]

i was doing an upgrade to my charge system upgraded to 250amp alternator so i need to upgrade the cables 1/0 gauge pure copper wire but it wont fit thru ring on the battery current sensor on the ground wire 12 inches from the battery . what can i do is there another one that has a bigger diameter for the bigger wire ?

[@christianperspective9527]

@@alexcucho1 The GM sensor outputs a duty cycle signal. I don't know if anyone makes one other than OEM. With that system you have to basically re-engineer the system to fool it into thinking everything is stock. Does the 1/0 cable without insulation fit through the sensor? Strip the final 12 inches of insulation off the cable, get as much copper through the hole as humanly possible us a nice piece of shrink tubing on the final 12 inches. Then dress up the spot around the sensor with some black rtv silicone.

[@03Misael21]

Had this same sensor on my power wire from the alternator to my battery in my 2010 impala. Battery Saver would always engage after like 10 to 20 minutes, especially with climate controls on. I didnt wanna take out any of my factory wiring after doing the Big 3 because I believe in adding on, not replacing. So I ended up picking up a good sensor at a junkyard and spliced the new one into the one I already have. Ran my 0 ga power wire thru the new sensor and I haven't had Battery Saver pop up ever since. Voltage has been great too.

[@AnthonyJ350]

That's pretty cool, thanks for sharing! So there are 2 sensors running simultaneously in your car?

[@wrenchaholic_]

Thanks for the info. I've been thinking of doing the same. Been contemplating if it'll work for about a week now.

[@itsMrBRoc]

I have the same exact issue with my 2008 Impala.. I'm gonna do the same thing as you!

[@silentbravo]

Firstly, Liked and Subscribed. This was great info. I just put together 2 extra grounds for my truck the other day then came across this video and thought, bahhh now I have to redo them somehow. But I guess not, I have a 2001 GMC Sierra, and it doesn't have this sensor. So it's probably OK to assume from about 99 to 02 Silverado/Sierra (probably the other GM full size vehicles also) that they don't have this RVC. From 2003 and up it's very possible that they introduced it, since that was the new body style update, and some electrical and minor body style changes occurred. I had read about this system before on the NNBS (07-13) trucks since people were complaining that their voltmeters would only be showing around 12v at times, which is normal since this system will not always charge at full 14v+ it will lower down to reduce strain on the accessory belt drive and in turn add that minuscule amount of MPG gain from the lesser load....

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thanks for the comment! Sorry about the late reply, yes with your year of truck you shouldn't have to worry about the RVC system.

[@codynelson6081]

Saved me a lot of time thank you! Ive had low voltage for two years because of that ground bypass I did for my system

[@AnthonyJ350]

Glad the video helped you!

[@HC-oy3jr]

Nice you learned me something gonna try this. Thanks also to save battery and alternator life turn off your running lights that automatically turn on when starting the vehicle. Don't need them on during the day . I have almost 7 years on a cheap AAA battery that was supposed to be temporary, thanks again God bless

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thanks for watching!

[@rudycausadias4889]

Great information man this has help me in my fix in my 2005 5.3l you are great man i have do it with your help

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thanks for watching!

[@bryonaderhold2009]

I upgraded my stock alternator that was 105 to a 290 amp and the battery from a 700 to an 800 did the big three upgrade also. Haven't had any problems but I still got to hook up my stereo so we'll see from there

[@AnthonyJ350]

Let us know how it goes!

[@MrSpike0358]

As I understand only the wires connected to the negative battery post needs to run through the sensor. I added another ground from alternator to frame, and from engine block to body. Everything works fine. The one single ground wire from alternator runs through the sensor to the battery negative. I am also going to add a xs7500 battery to the rear with a isolator, ground it to the frame. This is on a 2011 silverado.

[@AnthonyJ350]

If everything is working as it's suppose to, everything is all good.

[@aaronlawrence4218]

The wires that go through my ring are positive I have two wires one to the starter and one to the alternator post they are the only wires that go through a sensor the ground wires do not. Should I run a ground through that ring?

[@n8r8ts41]

Depends on the type of sensing the device utilizes. Normal ameters read magnetic Flux to read current, if I'm not mistaken.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thanks for the comment

[@matthew3272]

Nice information on the gmt800 trucks. I would have never thought about that regulator when doing the big 3 upgrade. Mechman came in clutch with that info.

[@AnthonyJ350]

matthew3272 I have driven for years with it incorrect. But I think the battery will last longer at least when you do this.

@@AnthonyJ350 whats an 800? there's 1500 light duty and 2500-3500 heavy duty 4500+ commercial

[@AnthonyJ350]

@ GMT-800 is the code for the generation of GM truck

[@greggarner4477]

I have a 2012 Sierra with a system and Big 6 (dual batteries) and I was wondering what this current clamp was all about when I did the big 3 and aded the extra battery... Guess I have some pondering to do to figure this one out. Thank you so much for the very useful info!! Truly much appreciated!! I have an 8 farad cap in the cab to think about too. This could be interesting

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thanks for watching! I wouldn't bother with the capacitor, you already have 2 batteries. I don't find caps make a difference in practice.

[@greggarner4477]

I get the headlight flicker either way. Only have 2000 watts in Rockford Fosgate amplifiers. But my GOD it sounds good 😊 I have no charging issues at all but don't want to. I have been building car stereo since 1992. Have been a die hard Rockford Fosgate person.

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@greggarner4477 Did you upgrade to a Mechman Alternator and ground the back of the cab to frame with ground straps?

[@axtaxt2964]

Thank you! No one covers this in big 3 write ups! Glad I thought about the voltage regulator getting confused and went looking before I started.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Glad the video helped!

[@mrme9517]

U REMOVE THE LOOM AND REMOVE THE SENSOR THEN GET BOTH GROUNDS THROUGH THAT SENSOR THEN LOOM AROUND IT TAPE IT REMOUNT GOOD TO GO 😎😎 JUST DON'T GO WITH 0 GAUGE GO 4 STILL A GOOD UPGRADE BUT CAN STILL LOOK FACTORY UTILIZING OE SENSORS PERFORMANCE IS MUCH BETTER BEFORE THE BIG 3 MY 07 AVALANCHE WOULD DROP UNDER 14 BLINKER WOULD BLINK FAST THEN IT RUNS BACK UP BACK TO NORMAL DID IT ALL THE TIME WITH NEW BATTERIES AND ALTS AFTER HAVEN'T HAD THAT AGAIN DEF WORTH THE UPGRADE 🎉🎉

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thank you for sharing

[@mrme9517]

​@AnthonyJ350 ur welcome i did this about a month ago and it's been holding up very well thanks for the video 🎉🎉

[@2009mechanic]

On 2014 through 2018 GM pickups: If installing an auxiliary battery under the hood and use a regular 400 amp isolation relay between them , have you figured out where to pull a signal from to turn that relay on and off so that it is on when in the ignition running position AND when in the start position? I have. You cannot use anything under the hood in the fuse convenience center as those were designed for certain applications so all those empty fuse slots that are unused are also without terminals installed under the cover on the power board.There is nothing there to tap from. And NEVER double up on an existing fuse prong as it will deform the terminal underneath and ruin it. I found my signal in that small box under the dash right next to the E-brake pedal. This is also where your harness adapter plugs in to hook up your electric brake controller. The terminals/pins I used were located in the lower unused cavity below where the brake controller plugs into it. There are battery start AND ignition and also ignition only pins in there. I don't know what those were really for and I'm not pulling an appreciable current on them , just enough to trigger the battery isolation solenoid relay and any accessory relays for off road lighting and stereo equipment. When I turn the key off , I want everything off not draining the batteries. This video show it pretty well. kzbin.info/www/bejne/b5_WqZyjr8Smptk

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thank you for sharing this!

[@steves5355]

They also told me the se thing on my 07 classic sierra. All it does it tell the pcm when to charge when there is more current draw. Currently running 320 mechman alt, and traditional big 4. I will be putting stock alt back on for truck and running the 320 stand alone for my stereo system. I also have Custom Electronics PCM bypass with voltage controller, and battery light delete. . They run around 100 shipped. I will be running 2 agm batteries and charging at 14.6-.8 or so. Before knowing about this i had big 3 in place for over a year with zero problems. Currently to put the alt into full charge cycle i run the headlights on and i get a solid14.4,.5. ive been doing this for about 2 months. Cant wait to have both alts on and dedicated to each side of my charging needs..just another thing ive bypassed to get where i needed to be. I only commented to let people know there is a way around all this, and i will continue to run the big 4. Im also on 1/0 power and grounds from sky high car audio which is similar in size to 2/0 welding cable. If that tells you my current draw oncwy set up is complete amd stereo build is finished. Decent set up from gm if you plan to stay stock..but there are ways around if your a basshead like me. Lmao.. Bass on!

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thanks for sharing!

[@jayman2sr]

Love the video. Glad I found it before I did my upgrade. Question, for the ground is it possible to use say the smd post bar to bring all the grounds to a common spot? That way the wire that has to flow through the sensor picks up those too. I plan to use a two batt set up aswell.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Oh ya you can do that. Have 1 thick wire from the neg battery post, go to another distribution post and have your additional ground feed from there.

[@jayman2sr]

Thx for the fast reply...

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@jayman2sr You're welcome

[@jayman2sr]

I have another question. I've done what I said in previous comment and everything seems to be holding well. My question is with the long run to hook up the 2nd battery In rear. Will it throw off the sensor if I added a second shorter ground closer to my aux battery? Or will it still pick up cause of the first wire running up front?

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@jayman2sr I don't think so. Police cars do that with 2 batteries the second is added and seems fine. Monitor it after your install.

[@getgetoutout]

Just run your new ground wires from where the stock battery ground wire attaches to the block. NOT to the battery itself. That way your 'body', 'chassis', 'alternator bracket', and 'block' grounds are still all connected as a unit AND the current from that entire system is running through the sensor back to the battery.

[@AnthonyJ350]

But if you don't make the wires thicker at the source you'll still have a "bottleneck" at the power source.

[@extrememiami]

That ring is a Hall sensor. It can count amps in, amps out, and voltage. I dont think we have smart alternators. I looked into adding LiFePo4 battery and I could add a second but to be primary id need a real smart alternator. I installed a voltage meter inside the car. Its at 14.6 usually. Are you saying a 2009 GM vehicles alternator will change the voltage or will know if you have lead acid or AGM battery. I thought the hall sensor was to for other stuff not chNging a current on the alternator.

[@AnthonyJ350]

I don't know if it knows the battery type installed. I've had AGMs in my 2005, no issues.

[@DETAIL1-jme]

I'm glad I watch this I'm about to do the big 3 in my Chevy Express..I noticed the ground you ran to the body don't run through the clamp so that doesn't matter in not going through the clamp?

[@AnthonyJ350]

No, only the grounds that attach to the battery need to go through the clamp

[@kinghaku2463]

I have an 02 Sierra. Thanks this really helped me out.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Glad it helped you!

[@roadlife9312]

just watch your video and it answered some questions about my 17 Silverado gonna let you know if I see any changes

[@AnthonyJ350]

Let us know what your observations are.

[@charlesovalles1646]

Great work. I have a 15 tahoe with big 3 and yes i found the current sensor the hard way. The truck actually starting shedding different devices and got fault messages. I do have an extra battery. Started having a load of starting issues. I had plenty of juice on both batteries and alternator was 14.5 on second battery. But still had issues. Im thinking i need a higher amp alt. Removed battery.big3.and amps. No further issues. Saving for big amp alt.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Look into Mechman alternators kzbin.info/www/bejne/q6vGh4OZocmpeLc

[@Bhdobbs]

charles ovalles bcm needs to be set to accept the dual charging mode

[@8ten820]

I'm working on a GM at the moment and that helped alot. Thanks for that!

[@AnthonyJ350]

8 ten8 Let me know how it goes because I'm trying to understand it more so feedback helps.

[@KaliBlaz]

so you are saying if i decide do add an accessory fuse box for example, i need to pass the ground wire through this sensor?

[@AnthonyJ350]

You can just ground additional devices straight to chassis.

[@limitlessworx5724]

This is the type videos we need awesome info gotta go see if my Tahoe has this

[@AnthonyJ350]

Glad you liked it! Check out my channel for more videos like this 🙂

[@limitlessworx5724]

@@AnthonyJ350 yeah i subscribed just seeing anyone did video in 07-14 tahoes not sure if the power wire goes straight to battery with fuse or goes like factory to fusible then to battery

[@undividedattention]

You can unhook that sensor. It saved the day on a gmt 900 I was working on that wasn't charging with a freshly rebuilt alternator.

[@AnthonyJ350]

GMT-800s don't like it if you unplug it. Thanks for sharing for your generation truck.

[@fullautoglock18able]

My 08 chevy colorado had it factory and then I did a LT1 swap and the harness had it didn't pay any mind until now to start putting 6 amplifiers and tons of accessories lights sh!t like that. What should I do.

[@fullautoglock18able]

Can I still put a ground strap from frame to a bus bar to ground amplifiers?

[@AnthonyJ350]

I would start by upgrading all the grounds. Including cab to chassis and battery.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Grounding the cab directly to frame is fine. It's anything to the battery should go through the sensor.

[@craftchest]

I'm glad I saw this in my feed. I have that same sensor in my trunk. I am about to do upgrades and always wondered what that sensor was. Now I know.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Glad the video helped, thanks for watching!

[@360ModsandHacks]

Thank you dude! I have a Tahoe and just installed 2 Mechman alts with 2 AGM batteries in the front and 4 in the rear and this variable voltage was pissing me off after installing all this nice equipment.

[@AnthonyJ350]

At least it gave you an idea what's going on

[@DJ-TBW]

Dual battery setup on 07-13 tahoe 5.3 how did you this

[@1970chevy]

Thanks for the video. Just did a friends trucks big 3. Didn't know about that sensor. I'll be rewiring his this weekend.

[@AnthonyJ350]

1970chevy Let me know how it goes. Trying to collect info on this.

[@1970chevy]

AnthonyJ350 ok. He sent me a pic after I sent him this video and he does have that sensor that we missed. He hit almost 10 volts on a good hit.

[@AnthonyJ350]

That's going down pretty low. Is the battery pretty new? I just put a NorthStar battery in my truck. How big is the sound system?

[@1970chevy]

1600 cab amp 2 12in missives newer battery and alt.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Ya definitely re-route the grounds, the charging system probably isn't seeing the entire load being put onto it. I'm really interested to see if you guys see a difference after doing that. I plan to install a Mechman alternator in my truck in a few months.

[@reginaldflowers5456]

Completed today...thank you! May have to change my alternator pulley back to stock one. Charging little past 14 volts

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thanks for watching!

[@jiujitsuforall8627]

Can you clear something up for me? You mention "4-gauge" and "0" gauge cable, is this "4 AWG" welding cable OR 4/0? And is "0" gauge "1/0" welding cable? Thnx, love your informative vids!!! I'm planning on upgrading my wires and will use your vid as my guide.

[@AnthonyJ350]

4 AWG, basically the thicker you go you can't go wrong. Just fitting that thickness of the wire may be a challenge.

[@wtnss1442]

@AnthonyJ350 I think the correct way to configure the negative conductors with that dumb current meter would be to move all the negative taps from the battery negative post to a common tap location on the frame or the alternator negative post......if tapped at alternator then run a single conductor 1/0 or 2/0 from the alternator negative post to the battery negative post with the current probe on this single conductor between the battery and alternator... if tapping at common tap location on the frame (make sure ground from alternator is 1/0 or 2/0 to common tap location) then run a 1/0 or 2/0 conductor between the common tap location and the battery with current probe on that single conductor.... looks like you did a really clean install...not sure if it’s configured correctly... what a nightmare with that dumb current meter! Without that current meter you wouldn’t have to do any of that, pretty lame what gm did there.. also maybe draw up a wiring diagram and show that in a video for those who don’t know how dc pwr systems work... or not.. :)

[@AnthonyJ350]

I think there is more than one way to skin a cat. My truck changes voltage appropriately and goes through the modes without a problem. My sound system never has any issues either. I'm sure your suggestion will work just as good.

[@wtnss1442]

Rite on... :) sounds like it’s workn like a champ.. tested and approved is always the final certainty. I jus immediately thought when you mentioned in the vid that you added another ground through the current meter that would only be correct if they are parallel conductors (essentially creating a larger ground conductor out of two conductors) or (instead of running a single 1/0... run two #4awg’s parallel) if there both coming from different locations then the current meter will not be accurate... jus a thought...not sure how it’s configured...but sounds like you got it... if it’s workn no need to mess with it :)

[@Tanner69046]

Do the 1999 silverados have this on them? I've been getting voltage drop whenever I initially draw power from the battery so I'm gonna do the big 3 upgrade to see if that fixes it. You're saying I need to run the ground wire through this voltage regulator?

[@AnthonyJ350]

I don't think they do. Wasn't till 2005 it seems.

[@Tanner69046]

@@AnthonyJ350 Thanks!

[@chillinrodzilla]

Thanks bro been looking for this still looking for a way to run 0 Guage though. What do you think about running 1 - 0 thru the sensor to a distribution block then running others from there??

[@AnthonyJ350]

That makes a lot of sense. I would do that. You're maxing out the sensor capacity as far as what fits. Definitely don't modify the sensor.

[@natekry]

I haven’t run through that sensor I have dual batteries and the big 3 and everything works flawlessly. On 3000 watt rms

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thanks for sharing!

[@johnebuckland]

A side note. If you upsizing to a 270+ Amp alt, wouldnt you want to use 1/0guage? Even though you have additional runs of 4Guage?

[@AnthonyJ350]

Yes you would, I made a caption later in the video at 6:18 stating this is fine for stock or mid-range alternators.

[@johnebuckland]

AnthonyJ350 oh i missed that.

[@AnthonyJ350]

I'll talk about it more when I eventually change the alternator. This video is geared more to people who performed a BIG 3 upgrade and are most likely running a stock alternator. I'm hoping people with HIGH output alternators have already compensated with 0 ga and follow the diagram shown at the beginning. Lots of variables depending on people's setups.

[@MaestrroMusic]

@@johnebuckland 0 AWG is always good, even with a lower alternator...

[@psyfertech]

i have a 2016 gmc sierra and it has the same system and it threw me for a loop i thought there was an issue with my charging system but im wondering if a better way to do this would be to run all of your grounds to one point say a distribution block and then run 1 0 guage or a double 0 guage from the negative post of the battery and through the rvc ammeter then to distro block that way theres no way for any current to bypass it, i think this is what i will do because i still need to run a ground to the alternator and as it is now i have no more room in the rvc ammeter to fit any more cable through it currently has a 0 guage and the factory engine ground going through it lol, i have read that unplugging the ammeter will allow it to constantly charge at full blast but some people say its not good because it can over charge the batteries, i think i will try the distribution block and see how it goes if there is any improvement at all, so far it seems to fluctuate but i have noticed that when my headlights are on it always stays close to 14volts, ive upgraded my car stereo substantially thats why i need the extra juice ive already added a second battery its the xsd5100 and that has made a big difference its just the way the alternator charges im not too happy with because with bass you really want to keep a constant nice voltage but it likes to stay around 12.6 to 13 sometimes which i dont like

[@AnthonyJ350]

Try it out and let us know your results.

[@ReapWhatYouSow]

Did you get the distribution block for the grounds?

[@dadokta]

Just upgraded to a 250amp js altenator. Did the big 3. For the ground sensor you are referring to is there a post to ground....I got lost when you said pass through and I didn't see how they were connected to the sensor in the video.

[@AnthonyJ350]

I go over details like that better in this video kzbin.info/www/bejne/q6vGh4OZocmpeLc If you add a ground wire from the mounting bolt for the alternator or even just add a cable to the accessory bracket for the drive belt system, that will help it flow a lot. Also upgrade ground from cable to chassis

[@dadokta]

@AnthonyJ350 thank you for the response. Unfortunately I can't find the clamp on my 2003 avalanche 1500. Unless it's inside this box under the battery. The existing factory grounds from battery don't pass through anything. They go straight to the Chassie and engine block....

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@dadokta 2003 you shouldn't have to worry about it. I believe it was implemented in 2005. Does your truck have belt drive cooling fans or electric?

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@dadokta This video should help with grounds on that truck to avoid future problems kzbin.info/www/bejne/eqLPYYirbZKGhM0

[@dadokta]

@AnthonyJ350 belt driven.

[@BeardedCheif]

I'm doing this big 3 upgrade in about 2 weeks with a professional install. My truck is a 2005 2500HD. Will I need to mention anything about this sensor you talked about? Only running 2 12s and door speakers with a amp running them seperate

[@AnthonyJ350]

To my knowledge the heavy duty trucks do not have the sensor. Only the 1500s.

[@darrylm3627]

Good Stuff,Great Tips😄👍🏿

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thanks so much!

[@TheDoozie43]

Is this video before you upgraded alternators and went to an adjustable pcm? Did you leave the sensor hooked up once you made the upgrades?

[@AnthonyJ350]

I didn't modify the PCM at all. Just installed a Mechman and left the sensor intact.

[@TheDoozie43]

@@AnthonyJ350 ok thanks man!

[@freebird03271968]

Ill have to look on my 04 silverado. I think that may he my parasitic draw problem. Im Goin thru batteries. I did 2 of the big 3 upgrade. Not sure now if I did them rite. My truck is in the shop rite now but I will be looking into this quick.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Let us know how it goes.

[@freebird03271968]

@@AnthonyJ350 well I dont have the sensor on my truck. So what exactly is the big 3? Or 4? I know the positive goes to the battery. But what about the power block? Thats how it came from factory. The positive wire from the battery runs down to it and on toward the starter. Do I need to replace the positive wire to the starter to with bigger wire? And the negatives? Battery to block? Block to chassis? Battery to body? Im confused because I've seen so many different ways but grounded is grounded, right? So it shouldn't matter? Help!

[@freebird03271968]

@@AnthonyJ350 heard different stories on the big 3 upgrade so I went from the neg side of the battery to the body,chassis and motor. Hope thats sufficient. Plus the alternator wire with a 250 amp fuse.

[@davidbollier3859]

I know I'm late to the game but for my understanding, I have the sensor you mention. My plan is to delete the ground Wire and replace it with the 1/0 wire. Sounds good to me but just checking as that's what the instructions state. Additionally, why would I not want to upgrade my engine to chasis ground? The instructions don't say to but I don't understand why if I'm upgrading the charge and battery ground wire? Thank you for making this video. I'm currently pushing 1800 amps for my stereo and hope this will give me better performance

[@AnthonyJ350]

That's correct you can replace the original and fit 0 gauge through the sensor. You can also upgrade your engine to chassis ground if you would like.

[@davidbollier3859]

@@AnthonyJ350 wow! Super fast response. Great job keeping this thread alive. Thank you again!

[@berniepokorski6608]

I found your video while trying to figure out what that "Current Sensor" is that is threaded onto the ground cable right next to the battery on my 2008 Chevy Trailblazer. GM calls it: " Part # 25826405 - Genuine GM Module, Generator Battery Control". Thank you for explaining its purpose! I am having an issue with the battery's ground cable... I suspect that the copper is corroded inside of the insulation on the Trailblazer's side-mount battery's ground cable. The vehicle's engine coolant temperature gauge works intermittently, and when ever It does not work, simply disconnecting and re-connecting the ground cable on the battery brings that gauge back to life. I have been dealing with this issue for the past few years, and I hope tat I have finally found the problem.

[@AnthonyJ350]

When you replace the ground cable put dielectric grease what it makes contact with the frame and battery and put a little bit on the exposed wire to help prevent corrosion.

[@brianpeterson1675]

Thanks for sharing the knowledge. It's greatly appreciated. However one question I have is, can anyone define "newer GM trucks" for me? Mine is on 2002 and has 75000 miles on it so it still feels new to me.

[@AnthonyJ350]

I want to say this trend started in 2005 these systems being implemented.

[@brianpeterson1675]

@@AnthonyJ350 Thank You! You've been a big help!

[@vongillman]

I too have been messing with this 05 Tahoe …+#%^*+== !!!! I’ve replaced everything! I will be changing this ground tomorrow! Thx buddy

[@davidbollier3859]

@@vongillman any update?

[@vongillman]

@@davidbollier3859 after redoing all the grounds and adding one from the alternator to the firewall , I finally figured out it was a bad alternator!!! The old one ( which was rebuilt by a shop I’ve been using for 30 yrs ) was bad. It worked fine till it was warm, then nada !! I went to Oreillys and got a rebuilt. Works perfect 👍

[@lylegoodluck]

Would I only need the cable that goes from the negative terminal to the block go through that sensor? Can I still have a cable from the block to the frame and another to the alt case to the cab?

[@AnthonyJ350]

Yes that's correct. Only wiring going to the battery goes through the sensor. Motor to frame does not need to.

[@shuffleshuffleshuffle]

If the battery negative goes to the engine block then you can run the big 3 off the block instead of the battery

[@AnthonyJ350]

I would still upgrade the battery cable to remove that choke point.

[@famousdev9707]

Guys dimming lights will NEVER completely go away when you're running enough power. Typically big 3 will fix dimming up to 600watts. Big 3 and an agm will fix dimming up to about 1000-1200 watts. Adding secondary batteries can extend this further. And then installing HID or LED headlights that run off a balast will extend it further. This all depends on your alternater. But you will ALWAYS have voltage drop with heavy bass systems. ALWAYS. You can't make power without pulling current, you can't pull current without dropping voltage. And you can't drop voltage without lights dimming. You can only LESSEN the degree to what they dim. But if youre running close to 2000w rms. Voltage drop will ALWAYS be a factor.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thanks for sharing!

[@thatvegashighrisedude2757]

I don't see this in my truck , would this be the reason why my dash says battery not charging ? I've checked my alternator , working good .

[@AnthonyJ350]

What year is your truck?

[@shuriKen469]

i was gonna do the big 3 upgrade, but ran across this video since i have an '05 that has the rvc sensor. the text in the video says factory ground plus two 4ga grounds. so you kept the original from negative to block and added negative to alternator and where does the third one passing through the sensor go to? this sensor has me doubting doing the upgrade since i already got a 1/0 gauge kit. 😔

[@AnthonyJ350]

If you can fit Z gauge through the sensor, replace the factory wire and run from battery to frame. Then upgrade the grounds from both cylinder heads to ground and upgrade grounds from body to chassis.

[@kman915]

I wonder how upgrading the alternator on a hybrid would affect it... I want a mechman alt and a new starting battery along with a big 3.

[@AnthonyJ350]

KmanBeatz Just email them, they respond pretty quick

[@helloworld5266]

I have a 2015 Silverado 2500LT, I'm doing Big 3 , 320Amp Irragi alternator , and second battery... I plan to run the following: 1. Power from Stock Battery to Power of Second Battery 2. Ground from Stock Battery to Second Battery. 3. Power from alternator to Stock battery. Ground from Alternator to frame. 4. Ground from alternator to body. ALL 1/0 Gauge and Fused in proper locations. Which of these wires needs ran through the sensor? And do you see any issues with this setup? I'm doing this work this week.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Everything looks good. I think you covered everything and it'll will be a better setup than most people with sound systems have. You just need to get the ground from the main battery through the sensor, since you have everything daisy chaining from the main battery, you should be good. kzbin.info/www/bejne/n2S0gnSqpMyKapI I'd like to know how your system goes after you're done.

[@ryanwagner5444]

Can this sensor go bad? And could it cause a whine while the truck is running? Had lots of audio upgrades and never knew my truck had one of these. Now can’t figure out a whine. New alt, new pulleys, sounds like an electrical/alt whine but coming from a lower area, very close to where this is supposed to be.

[@AnthonyJ350]

How old is the battery? Spark plug wires and plugs are relatively new?

[@carlossr01]

How come your truck reads Kilometers on the speedometer?? Just curious and thanks for the great video keep up..

[@AnthonyJ350]

Oh that's because I'm in Canada. All our stuff is metric here.

[@carlossr01]

@@AnthonyJ350 Thank you for the fast response.

[@theecstatic9686]

Thanks dude, feel a lot better about upgrading while at the same time having a communication error with the bcm...

[@AnthonyJ350]

Glad the video helped understand the different things the charging system does.

[@DetrellOfATL]

Thanks for the info. Question for you or anyone looking at this? My voltage is good around 14.6V but my lights flicker, is there any way to fix this problem with your experience. TIA.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Convert the headlights to LED and the marker lights as well. Also upgrade the grounds on the truck to help.

[@crankybastid2197]

I am adding a secondary battery to a 2019 2500hd gas engine truck. Would you recommend running the ground wire (2awg) from the secondary battery through the sensor and to the main battery? I am adding a 150amp breaker and isolator to the power wire. Thank you

[@AnthonyJ350]

If you can run it through the sensor it would be ideal.

[@samrotolo7303]

I was replacing battery every 2 years. I did not figure it out until shortly before I traded it in I pulled the amps out before I traded. I did not do any audio in my new truck.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Every vehicle needs a good small sub woofer though 🙂

[@pabloocampo9954]

I was watching the video closely and on the minute 7:40 I saw the voltage gauge go down a little and the lights flicker... is this normal? I have an 05 yukon and it does the same thing any Idea what is it?

[@AnthonyJ350]

I have a video for it kzbin.info/www/bejne/bn-1kp2mjr16mJY

[@pabloocampo9954]

Thanks alot man...

[@noahkb80]

I've got an 08 silverado 5.3 the electrical has been a nightmare since day 1. I used to get the random truck freak out where the gushes would go nuts and doors lock and unlock. Changed the negative terminal and it solved that problem. But something still isn't right to me. Upon starting im up at 14.8 V. During driving, if im not running A/c it drops to about 13. But if I turn on the AC it'll drop to about 12.2 or so and not go back up. Ive got a 1400 w system also. Im not a mechanic nor an electrician. I can install a car stereo but just know what I've taught myself. But I would think if im running a heavy draw , the V guage would read higher for the increase demand, and lower say at night where im just running head lights. I never have any outright failures when low , but everything seems weak. I notice a drop in sound quality when my voltage is down around that 12.2 area as opposed to 14+ when it sounds better. Most people wouldn't notice this difference, but i do especially in low end on my subs. Headlights don't dim. Just curious what anyone may think? Is my assumption about the voltage backwards and its operating correctly and should read low on heavy use and high on low use? Maybe im dead wrong , but i believe I have some significant issue somewhere. I've got other issues with the truck. Random misfires, etc. And any time ive dealt with the electrical on this truck, it's been a mess. I can turn on tow/haul and that'll raise it back up to 13.8 ish.

[@AnthonyJ350]

I would check the grounds, this video might help kzbin.info/www/bejne/eqLPYYirbZKGhM0

[@barrysoileau5319]

??Hmmm....i noticed something similar on my 2012 f150. Found somewhere where this ring looking thing on my negative battery wire is part of fords battery monitoring or management system. Wonder if it's the same as with this post about the gm's.

[@AnthonyJ350]

It would be very similar. Most manufacturers seem to be doing something like this.

[@Jacespace23]

90 Silverado Current setup. Alt is internally regulated Alt 2 wires red and brown - red goes to starter (not directly to battery with inline fuse) - brown goes to dash battery light. Ground goes thru mount bolt (not to battery) How do I do the big 3 upgrade? Where would the ground sensor be hooked up?

[@AnthonyJ350]

90's Chevy won't have the sensor. So you can go nuts upgrading the grounds.

[@bass-n-truth-inthestix9083]

Do I need to worry about this on a 05 lly duramax (Sierra hd2500)? Recently installed a mechman 370 elite series and I've been having issues getting the job finished. Having a hard time finding a 12v switched ignition source, for the blue wire from the harness provided by mechman. Thought I had it, everything seemed legit... put my truck in gear and I get the battery warning light and it says "battery not charging". I have a dual battery system under the hood and a 3rd xs power d5100 under the back seat. Xs power big 3 kit ofc of course 1/0. Everything is done right as far as I can tell.

[@AnthonyJ350]

I believe the heavy duty trucks don't have this system.

[@thatguy_jose]

For mine the only time it drops a bit when I turn the climate controls on. it goes up to the 3/4 mark when I first start it. but now that its being driven more( it sat for a couple months from the previous owner) it stabilizes dead straight in the middle at 14v.

[@AnthonyJ350]

jose _Leo815 Did you upgrade the grounds?

[@comaradelee]

thank you. mine has one, so glad i watched it before doing big 3. it would be a waste of money. from the philippines. btw, u have 4ga in the sensor, the first is connected to the alternator ground, what is connected to the 2nd? u did not explain in the video

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thanks for watching! I have another one going to the frame. Don't forget to subscribe!

[@sjquilicot]

Hey Chris!

[@dart760]

So I have 04 and not check if it has that thing. But my voltage in the guahe cluster always goes below 14. I want to upgrade the big 3 with 0 gig. What did you use to use the battery post? You have a type list of everything and how much length etc? Thx

[@AnthonyJ350]

I would get a Northstar battery with dual battery posts so you can attach everything on top easily.

[@dwills6059]

Question if I already ran the big 3 in 4 gauge wiring. Can I add another ground in 0 gauge wiring?

[@AnthonyJ350]

I don't see why you can't.

[@dwills6059]

@@AnthonyJ350 Thanks you cause my battery gauge constantly goes up and down to 12 volts probably and back up 14.5 while driving

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@dwills6059 Let us know how it goes after.

[@JUNIORC01]

Thanks I just upgraded my alternator on my 2014 Silverado to a 250amp mechman alternator I don't have the big 3 yet planning to do soon and I have a 12v d4800 xs power battery when I start my truck its seams that im getting higher voltage around 15 and seams to freeze my radio and my windows I can't control them until the voltage starts lowering. Im check the sensor and do the big 3 hope its helps out.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Some electronics are more sensitive than others. When you hit 15 volts that's the threshold for operation.

[@jeremywhite1251]

im having an issue i believe this sensor is the problem. Since I have 3 grounds can i put the sensor over my positive? I have a 12 chevy impala and ive seen videos with their sensors on the positve. Just not sure

[@AnthonyJ350]

It probably would work but I've never tried it. It's just electrons at the end of the day. Try it, if it doesn't work clamp it back on to negative. Is your sensor the one that goes around the wire or bolts to the terminal?

[@DanielPedraza-m4b]

So if I were to use 0 gauge I would only run 1 0 gauge wire from negative ( battery) - through the sensor to the block?

[@AnthonyJ350]

Correct

[@alexcucho1]

i was doing an upgrade to my charge system upgraded to 250amp alternator so i need to upgrade the cables 1/0 gauge pure copper wire but it wont fit thru ring on the battery current sensor on the ground wire 12 inches from the battery . what can i do is there another one that has a bigger diameter for the bigger wire ?

[@AnthonyJ350]

Can you replace the factory cable with the new one.

[@therealdowny]

might be a little to late to ask lol! im having a problem of my voltage dropping while just driving or when i put some bass to it.. could that be caused by the RVC? (i dont have anything other than stock ground going through it) i did the big 3 upgrade and it hasnt helped... i have 2 AGM batteries and a huge capacitor and still going to around 10.. if i run the 0 guage through the sensor will it solve that problem?

[@AnthonyJ350]

I would upgrade the main ground at the battery. If you idle the engine with the sound system off, what's the voltage?

[@bertdawgy98]

Did you upgrade the wires on the positive junction?

[@AnthonyJ350]

I did on my truck

[@bertdawgy98]

Bolt that holds all the cables in it was just way too far gone. I just left it as is, and will probably zip tie the old alternator charge wire down until I can get it out. I did the big 3 and a new ground for engine to frame and added a car body ground to the battery negative 🤙🏽

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@bertdawgy98 How did it start and everything work after?

[@bertdawgy98]

I’ll let you know in about an hour or two 😂

[@paulandis8464]

Can you post a link to that XS Power diagram you got emailed from Mechman. Please 🙏 and thank you.

[@AnthonyJ350]

I don't have it anymore. You should be able to email them, they're very helpful.

[@aford5080]

I did this upgrade on my 11 impala 3 yrs ago and I didn't pass the ground thru the sensor ring and I had funky guage readings.. until I read about that loop being very neccessary For a fact a 2011 Chevy Impala has this setup

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thanks for sharing your experience!

[@gerardohtx207]

So it’s ok if I put 2 4ga ground wires going through the ring on the sensor?? Thanks!!

[@AnthonyJ350]

That's what I did and have been running a Mechman alternator for a little bit now. No issues.

[@jayeff4457]

I have 2007 Silverado with a sensor on my factory ground. Thanks for posting.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Ya I hope this video helps out a bunch of people. I can see shops charging a lot of money to fix this because this is a hard one to diagnose.

[@efrenp.9862]

Hey Anthony can i remove the stock wires that are running through that sensor and just have 1 2/0 cable through there or do i need to leave those wires there and just downgrade to a cable that fits in the sensor along with the stock wires? You think 1/0 cable would fit along with stock wires? Thanks

[@AnthonyJ350]

You can replace it with newer thicker cabling.

[@efrenp.9862]

AnthonyJ350 sorry i didnt explain myself i have a mechman 370 amp alternator running a 2/0 cable to negative battery post but that 2/0 dont fit through sensor witht the other 2 cables that are already there so im guessing a 1/0 cable will probably fit without having to remove the stock wires on sensor

[@alphasaiyan5760]

Could’ve just used a terminal block and hooked all the grounds up to it and then a single 1/0 cable back through the sensor to the battery. Other wise the point is still made. Great video 👍

[@AnthonyJ350]

You can do that if you want.

[@darinmoorman1872]

So it would be ok to run 0 gage oversized grounded threw the rvc to alternator grounded just 1 run or would it be better to run 2 4 gage threw rvc to different points

[@AnthonyJ350]

If you can run 0 gauge through all good.

[@darinmoorman1872]

Thanks for your reply I have one more question right now there is 2 grounds running threw the rvc and my truck having voltage problem doing the big 2 would help that voltage out some at least right it would see more current I plan on up grading everything amp never cuts off but it does not get enough power will doing this help

[@darinmoorman1872]

The grounds right now look like 6 @ 8 gage

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@darinmoorman1872 If you replace you'll have to attach to the 0 gauge or just have them on the frame and use the frame as a distribution center.

[@darinmoorman1872]

I'm sorry new to all this can you explain a lil better please

[@Mr.Hoskin]

I have a 2017 and i did a big 3 with JS Alterator. After driving long distances my voltage drops to 12.8. Is that normal?

[@AnthonyJ350]

I've seen my truck do that. When that happens, try turning on the lights. See if it goes back up to 14.5 volts.

[@Mr.Hoskin]

@@AnthonyJ350 It does. But what does it mean when the voltage drops like that? And will my sound system be affected? I have a 370amp alternator, new AGM 1000 amp battery, 2,500watt amp for subs.

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@Mr.Hoskin It's not ideal on a big sound systems. An external voltage regulator would be ideal. Secondary battery is also a good idea.

[@ReapWhatYouSow]

After checking out your other content I'm not sure you have this truck anymore. Did you end up replacing your alternator? I'm getting alot of dimming and I have a Mechman 320 I upgraded all power and ground checked all my resistance. Taking it to a shop as soon as covid-19 allows the shop to open. Congrats on the house!

[@AnthonyJ350]

Yup, I still have the same truck and the same Mechman alternator I did the original video on. Did you run all of your grounded through the clamp? I actually did a dyno video and the Mechman was on the truck when we ran it.

[@ReapWhatYouSow]

@@AnthonyJ350 thanks for taking the time out of your day to reply. There is one ground running through the clamp from the battery to the frame. At the frame is two more grounds. One runs to the alternator and one runs to the original spot on the motor. The grounds are all connected at the same location on the frame.

[@qm2092]

I wonder how many miles per gallon this current sensor saves by just topping off the battery voltage

[@AnthonyJ350]

Probably very small but in theory everything lasts longer. And there are still a lot of GMT800 platform trucks still on the road. RVC is common across most modern vehicles.

[@daddyrooster88]

Ok in your case the battery is on the driver side so all the grounds are almost the same length. However in alot of chevy trucks 07-13 the battery is on the passenger side by the firewall and far from the alternator. The 2 stock grounds are one 4 gauge from battery to engine block and one looks like 8 or 10 gauge from battery to frame. The are both relatively short in lengths. If i run another ground 4 gauge from battey to alternator it will be considerably longer. My question is do i run the 2 short grounds along with the long one through the sensor or just the 1 long one to the alternator? Does the system only see the shorter wires?

[@AnthonyJ350]

Any ground from the battery needs to go through the sensor.

[@xcolby9623]

How would I go about running a second battery to the rear with this setup? Do I run the negative from the rear battery through the sensor to the front battery?

[@AnthonyJ350]

You could run a ground with the power and hook it up to the clamp on the main battery. The sensor will then see current flow accordingly in theory.

[@steviej3585]

I have a 2004 Chevy Tahoe 5.3l Z71 and I done bought 3 temp coolant sensors and the temp gauge barely moves. I keep getn a engine light cuz it's saying temp is not up to thermostat temp plus I changed the thermostat too.

[@AnthonyJ350]

You'll want to look into my video where I go over the grounds of these trucks kzbin.info/www/bejne/eqLPYYirbZKGhM0

[@chrisjackson3182]

So I have a 2017 Yukon should I run my ground from alternator to battery through the sensor and that’s it for a stock alt 1/0 gauge. Or should I run 1 from ground to block because I’m using all 0 gauge. Late to video

[@AnthonyJ350]

That fine, I would add a 0 gauge from frame to battery (don't need to go through the sensor) do one at the front and back of body to frame and everything should flow good. Make sure to add dielectric grease on the mating surfaces to prevent corrosion.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Also consider upgrading to a Northstar battery.