Bigtreetech SKR V1.4 (Turbo) comprehensive guide

[@carbuns]

I just received mine today and started with the struggle...best timing Michael!! Your channel is by far the best in the 3D printing upgrades department (specially ender family) and the quality of your explanations

[@crateer]

Literally just bought a SKR 1.4 Turbo 2 days ago, this video comes more than perfect! Thank You!

[@VeydinZain]

I have an Ender 3 Pro and replaced with BTT SKR 1.4 Turbo along with the original 12864 LCD Control Screen (came with printer). After doing everything Michael mentioned in this VERY HELPFUL video, I ran into ONE ISSUE. When scrolling down to print off the SD card I would only see "Attach Media". ... After many hours and taking out whatever hair I have left, I noticed under "configuration_adv.h" that the #define SDCARD_CONNECTION was set to LCD (#define SDCARD_CONNECTION LCD). Obviously there is no SD card slot on LCD. You'll need to change it to #define SDCARD_CONNECTION ONBOARD . Flashed the Firmware and finally I see the "Print from Media"! Hope this helps others with the same or similar setup.

[@HotboiEngineering]

Looking forward to the Closed Loop Stepper video, i've always wanted that Prusa style step loss protection.

[@PVznPie]

So I've watched this guide multiple times start to finish and it's amazingly thorough. With that being said my ender 3 has been out of commission for about 2 months since I did this upgrade. I followed everything to the T and haven't gotten a successful print since the upgrade. Things I changed are SKR v1.4 Turbo, BLTouch, and Hero Me Gen 5. The issues keeping me from getting a successful print is as follows. When I try to home, the X axis will move slightly then home the Y and Z normally. I tinkered with the sensorless homing sensitivity but the issue is let's say at 55 it moves ever so slightly and stops as if it's homed and at 54 it crashes into the endstop makes a horrible sound until I power off the printer. There are times it doesn't do this so then I move on to bed leveling with the BLTouch, for the most part it levels the 9 points on the bed fine but sometimes when I get to this step it probes off the bed as if the offsets are off but trust me, they aren't. I've gone through the marlin rebuild process about 10 times now, each time starting from scratch and patiently ensuring all the settings are exact and perfect. Another issue is if I make it passed the bed leveling stage and attempt a print the printer acts as if its not leveled and prints like a whole 10mm off the bed and no amount of Z Offset seems to help with this. I've even gone to the extent of disassembling the entire printer and reassembling to make sure everything is square and not built unevenly. I pretty much gave up about a month ago after spending literally 10 hours straight debugging/tinkering/rebuilding marlin, and yes I mean literally my adhd had me in hyper focus mode and did break focus until i noticed how thirsty I was. It's just such a grab bag of issues that I don't know where to start or what would cause what issue. Like the issues I mentioned intermittent like I can have it to where the sensorless homing sensitivity is good enough to where the X will crash but stop after that which is annoying but hey atleast it's moving right? Then i get to leveling and it'll probe off the bed so I have to restart and now the sensorless homing isn't working? but the bed leveling is? makes no sense. I'm not trying to bash your video just really really want some help so I can actually print things again.

[@nathanwilliams2986]

Look at the video about 13:40 minutes if you are using TMC 2209 you need to clip the pin if you are still using the endstops. If you want sensorless homing then remove the endstop and do not clip the pin.

[@esk8builder693]

Extraordinary as always Michael. Looking forward to future BTT videos. Interested in the closed loop steppers and ups module.

[@ScottLahteine]

The "Auto Build Marlin" extension makes it much quicker to build and upload Marlin. Install it in Visual Studio Code using the "Extensions Marketplace" tab on the left side. Just search for "marlin" and it will appear. The Marlin logo will then show up as a new button on the left side of the window. Currently ABM just provides a simple interface to do build, upload, and clean, but it will be gaining more configuration tools over time.

[@davidebastanzetti1362]

hi, while it builds marlin, the motherboard should be connected to the computer or not?

[@tunerok]

@@davidebastanzetti1362 connect only if you want to flash through a computer. If you throw on a USB flash drive, then you can not connect

[@Lozoot2]

I was an early adopter of the 1.3, back before there was hardly any documentation - I'm absolutely amazed at not only how quickly this board became a staple in the 3D printing community, but also how awesome BTT has been with fixes, improvements and features that their customers can actually benefit from! It's nice when companies listen to feedback :D

[@kevinm3751]

This is awesome, I have my turbo version with TMC2209 drivers ordered and will be here the 23 and this will come in SUPER handy to help me get my Ender 3 Pro setup. Thanks a ton for doing this U rock! Be safe in these trying times and keep up the awesome job you do for the community!

[@bruceyoung1343]

Question did you clip the diag pin? And did you clip only one OR 3. (X,Y, and Z axis’s)?

[@gibbnal]

Thank you for doing such in-depth guides. Tonight I upgraded my CR-10s to the SKR 1.4 with 2208 drivers and it went just fine. But it’s very easy to skip something and waste tons of time figuring out the mistake. My advice for noobs like me is to watch, listen and re-watch. Excellent content. Keep up the great work. 👍

[@vannialeonardo6403]

I'm trying to do it on a CR-10s but it is not loading up, it turns on but does nothing.. any idea what I might of missed?

[@raybang9891]

Hi! Are you using Legacy mode or UART mode for your 2208? Because it seems UART mode for 2208 requires soldering, but it's not mentioned in the video,can you confirm? Thanks

[@hmelodesign]

In order to use bltouch proprietary connection in skr 1.4 board, you must change the pins port in pins_BTT_SKR_V1_4.h file. From: #define Z_STOP_PIN P1_27 To: #define Z_STOP_PIN P0_10 Great content teaching tech, keep going!

[@bafxyz]

Thanks man, it fixed it for me

[@joanS12]

You do not need to enable #define_BLtouch in configuration.h?

[@paulblythe5899]

Excellent video ... The mainboard on my Creality CR10 v2 recently stopped working and I purchased the BTT SRK v1.4 Turbo with TMC2209 v1.3 as a replacement. It's been a straight-forward swap so far and The Marlin setup (V2.1.1) has gone smoothly also.

[@quebecmultirotor5013]

thank you sooooo much Michael! i struggled for 2 days getting that bltouch hooked up and functional watching your video pointed me in the right direction .... my connections where wrong

[@The_Cape_84]

I was wondering when you would post a video for the SKR 1.4. I watched all of your SKR and driver videos (and all your other Ender 3 related videos) when I ordered my Ender 3 Pro (my very first printer YAY!). I just put the SKR 1.4 Turbo board in last weekend with TMC2209 stepper drivers, didn't mess with the sensorless homing though in hindsight (I clipped my pins) I could have used the switches to make a filament sensor, I'll just do that with the Z switch once my bltouch comes in. Overall I am loving the board and drivers, it's so much quieter than the stock Melzi board! As always, a very informative video! Thank you!

[@steelhorses8491]

Right on time, my SKR V1.4 (Turbo) arrived Monday and the TFT35 got here last week so really stoked to do this upgrade. Was scouring for info as I'm not that familiar with VSCODE but slowly getting oriented. Now with this vid I'm fully confident that I should have no problems with a fairly painless upgrade! I would love to see you do something on the ir sensors as there is very little info out there on utilizing one instead of a BL touch. (1/3 the cost, non contact and high accuracy are just way to attractive IMO )

[@OxedPixel]

I have a 1.4 turbo with TMC 2209's and I did not cut the pins and don't use sensorless homing. Yet the homing works perfectly with end-stop switches.

[@KaChunWong084]

I just purchased an SKR1.4 due to a blown Mosfet on my SKR1.3. Very detail description of setting up. Thank you for the heads up on the BLTouch portion.

[@pierre3036]

I have an SKR V1.4 Turbo on order with the TMC2209 and a TFT35 V3.0. I've never performed any of what you've shown but understand what's going on and your video....well...so amazingly well done, to the point with sufficient explanations. Looking forward in executing this project which will involve replacing my controller box with something designed differently, maybe that one from Thingiverse between the frame rails. Thanks for a nother very informative video, I learned a lot.

[@meltonpieman959]

My 1.4 board arrived this week and I am busy trying to follow the various Github options on my own Marlin compilation. Mainly, I assumed that using the BLTouch in the endstop socket would mean cutting the TMC2209 pin, so thanks to your video I will use the socket and not cut it. From your previous video on the TMC2209 I believe that the inverting can stay the same as the Ender 3 code, so I will go with that. Thanks for your videos!

[@misanthropictear]

thanks Michael, and big fyi to other so you dont smoke your board/dcdc module, i've seen 3 different wire configs on the bl touch, and 2 different wire color schemes (the other not here being red, blue yellow on the servo connector cable instead of brown, orange, yellow). make sure really identify what wire is what coming from bl touch cables and what pin to land it on. I had to swap the servo connector cable blue and red wires as they were swapped for what this board accepts but my black and white were already set ok (and in a white connector not a red like i've seen on many videos including this one). Lastly also note you need to remove that extra senseless homing pin for x,y, AND Z because if you configure your bl touch in the z endstop position you will crash without removing that sensorless homing pin on the driver (i bent mine out of the way in case i wanted to play with sensorless homing later). (unless you change the firmware around to use the actual probe pins next to the servo connector instead of z stop pins then it won't get confused.)

[@yuriykovalov2936]

Thank you, waiting for almost 2 months now for my V1.4 to show up to upgrade my AM8...

[@PMcDFPV]

How did your SKR1.4 upgrade go on the AM8 ? Im about to dive in on one this weekend, did you snip the pins on the 2209 for X,Y and Z ? Thanks !

[@yuriykovalov2936]

@@PMcDFPV my 1.4 showed up maybe 2 weeks ago and i haven't the chance to convert everything (

[@VectorRoll]

I ordered my SKR v1.4 a while back. It took forever to get here from China. Haven't decided what to do with it yet. I really like the BigTreeTech products so far. I first bought the SKR E3 and installed it into my Ender 3 Pro. It has been working great so far.😉 I put my SKR v1.3 in my old FLSun Kossel Mini. I used my SKR Pro for my diy cloned Prusa I3 MK2 which I named Birchy because it's main frame is cut out of a sheet of birch plywood. I also used wood filament for some of the printed parts.😋 I also purchased the BTT GTR v1.0 and it's still sitting in its box. I'm thinking of using it for my coreXY build and making it into a tool changer type printer. If I can figure out how to do that.🤔 LOL I also purchased quite a few stepper drivers from them. Only issue I have BTT is I am not sure what I am going to do with all these little rubber ducky's. ROFLMAO 🥴

[@RileyMoses]

Just wanted to let you know that you consistently nail the presentation for this stuff. I'll be sitting here watching and think of a question, and BOOM, five seconds later you either answer it or link to something that does. Thanks for never assuming your viewers already know what you're talking about, it's super helpful!

[@yuriynovomail]

Thank you man! Very complete and quite useful! A lot of things shown that were missed by other reviewers

[@robdavidowitz6428]

Absolutely AWESOME and outstanding instructional video. As a complete novice, this upgrade seems quite daunting for me but after watching this video and related link video, I feel confident to go out and buy the bits and pieces and cracking on with this installation. I might get to eat my words but I somehow doubt it, given your extremely detailed step by step. BEST instruction video I have seem in a very long time Good on you Boet👌👍

[@jimfishify]

I just got my BTT SKR 1.4 Turbo with TMC2209 steppers. I plan to install this on a CR10S V1 along with my BLtouch, and direct drive Hemera. The current system is working great, although I feel the need(want) to get a 32bit board. I guess if you mess up you can squeeze the little duck it comes with, that should make you feel better. Thanks for the guides, I'll be going over them multiple times!

[@tombo7719]

One of the best things (YOU) and mnfctrs could do right now is address the older machines and revamping them w new boards and drivers and changing from 12 to 24 volts.. updating software etc. would/could be a REALLY cool video as so many of us have older machines. I originally got this board a few yrs back, then got out of printing due to life changes, back in it and having/wanting to update things. Thanks a bunch and take care! Also.. a video on newest CAD to use and all would be epic also

[@TwistedRealityDesigns]

i just received my BTT skr 1.4 turbo in the mail today.. your video is gonna be super helpful when im doing the install.. thank you so much keep up the stellar work

[@johnhoeppner1569]

Great video! Very concise and enough detail to get the BTT board setup without a lot of hassle. Getting the BTT V1.4 board to work from scratch isn't a cake walk due to very poor documentation but thankfully there is this video and a lot of info from the community. To make BLTouch work requires that the file "pins_BTT_SKR_V1_4.h (or pins_BTT_V1_4_TURBO.h if you have the TURBO version) be modified as follows: #define Z_STOP_PIN P0_10 //(not P1_27). Similarly in Configuration.h you need to modify this line: #define Z_MIN_PROBE_PIN P0_10 // Bigtreetech 1.4 bltouch Z top pin. The line #define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN should also be enabled. Getting the board to work with a PT100 temp sensor was a real adventure. It is possible to do this without nasty hardware tweaks but it requires you to create a new THERMISTOR_xx.h file. Just my 2 cents on their Wifi module: don't bother. It's too primitive and buggy. If you need to un-tether your printer go with Octoprint.

[@joanS12]

thanks for the info. You do not need to enable #define_BLtouch in configuration.h?

[@fredwupkensoppel8949]

Wow, I'm planning on buying a printer with a BTT SKR series board next year and did not know that it flashes itself if you insert a micro SD with new firmware on it. Already planned on having a USB ISP permanently attached to it. Well, guess I don't have to plan for that anymore. Thanks!

[@DJlegionuk]

I have this board and the smaller tft after you recommended the v1.3 and I saw the 1.4 had dual Z stepper support so thought it would be better for my printer. I am having to make some designs to fit the screen into my copymaster 3d printer as I brought the smaller one, but I can do it without mods to the metal. I also have the tmc2209 so your guide is spot on and I will be using it very soon. It looks like Marlin had copymaster listen in the config files so I think this should be easy enough. The only part left for me is to design a filament cooling duct for the addition fan I had to add as the original setup had a shared fan for the hotend and filament cooling and was very poor.

[@Festivejelly]

These really look like capable boards. Having the 5 stepper drivers will be nice for the Z axis levelling.

[@munkpuppy]

I got this board just over a week ago, and I absolutely love it compared to the SKR Mini S3 I was using prior. There's a lot more options and connectivity, and it stores settings without any messing around! I actually went through 2 SKR Mini E3 boards, and both had the X-axis driver burn out in less than a day. I bought the SKR 1.4Turbo because if another driver blew, I could just replace it instead of the whole board. Thankfully, I haven't had any drivers die since! But to be safe, I have installed a remix of the AIO enclosure that has direct cooling to the drivers, and used thermal epoxy to affix the heatsinks, in order to get the best heat transfer. Thanks for all of your work so far, you've been my greatest resource since I started printing almost a month ago!

[@oriongaby]

I feel you, my SKR Mini X axis driver died a couple days ago and I'm now back on the noisy stock board so I can get some prints out. I swore to never buy another board with integrated drivers.

[@munkpuppy]

@@oriongaby my sentiments exactly. I thought maybe I had just gotten a bad board, but an identical failure told me I should try swappable drivers. The 1.4 was exactly what I needed, I just wish this video had come out a week earlier!

[@oriongaby]

@@munkpuppy I think there's something related to the board design that is causing problems with the X axis driver. If you search on the internet you will find other people that have had the same problem. My board died randomly, I was fixing a loose screw in the Y gantry and had to remove the screen and printed drawers that were under the bed, when I plugged the screen back in and turned on the printer the error message was on the screen.

[@munkpuppy]

@@oriongaby mine failed under similar circumstances; both times I turned off the printer to make an adjustment, and the next time I turned it on, the x-axis is dead. Good to know it's not just me!

[@JCBEos]

I'm operating this board under Marlin 2.0.5.2 without any problem, FYI. Nice tutorial as usual. but I'm proud to did it all by myself (using knowledge gathered on your channel 😉)

[@KeirMurphy]

Thanks for the video. Upgraded my Tronxy x1 to the SKR 1.4 Turbo and the only issue was BLTouch as you described. Still haven't nailed the 2209 senseless homing yet but doing a big rebuild of the printer and upgrading all axes so will work on it a bit more. I think one thing to mention is that only the cooling fan is PWM. The rest are always on at 100%. This is a bit annoying if you have a 5015 parts fan as it will be very loud. I'm considering putting this into the second extruder port and then configuring the firmware to use that pin config instead.

[@monstroPT]

Hi, Michael! I faced a problem when I was upgrading my Tevo Tarantula to a SKR v1.4. When I was connecting my inductive sensor to the Z endstop signal, it wasn't working because of the pull-up resistor. It's a NC inductive sensor. After some research and tinkering, I ended up connecting the signal to the signal of the servo port P2_00, replacing it in the firmware in place of the P1_27. Just to share in case someone faces the same issue or you decide to update your tutorial. Keep up with the nice work!

[@Dispater0703]

Thanks for the great video. I am running a CR10S5 and thinking about upgrading it with a Bigtreetech 32bit board, mainly because of the 24v power supply and the chances of cleaner prints.

[@robertcookson7681]

Another Great Video. Thanks for putting this together. Just to add (at 10'50) if Using a MAC the .pio folder is hidden within FINDER (explorer). Use CMD+SHIFT+DOT to reveal it, or use the upload button within platformIO (next to the compile button) to move the .bin file to your MicroSD or board directly. Thanks again.

[@timha4102]

Exceptionally detailed and useful content. I can't give you enough praise!

[@nathantrinh23]

Great timing! I just bought one since my SKR V1.3 fried itself.

[@joshlacroix9852]

Thank you for this video and all your other videos. The documentation and organization is amazing, as well the videos are detailed, clear and concise. This is my go to channel for upgrades and any trouble shooting. Thank you for all your efforts!

[@GunGryphon]

I really enjoyed volume a lot of the upgrade tutorials that you do, especially for the creality series of printers. I was wondering, would you consider creating a guide for an economical dual extruder upgrade?

[@brian2329]

Your channel has provided so much help and advice on 3D printing. I have one query at 7:30 it says H is for hot end fan. The port H is for a second hotend on the skr v1.4 turbo. I am having issues with my 2 month old board were the parts cooling is not working. I contacted BTT and forwarded this checklist only to be asked had I connected a fan to the hot end (I hadn't) but told them the port never worked not realising it was a hot end port at the time.

[@brittanyb9098]

I know this is an old comment/video but for others who are confused by the HE1 on the board's pinout and find this comment like I just did, the H label on the diagram is correct. At 10:20, the firmware change E0_AUTO_FAN_PIN to P2_04 changes the hotend fan to the HE1 screw-in terminal. So if you are upgrading an Ender 3 (or other printer with a single extruder) and make the firmware changes as instructed, the hotend fan MUST be connected to the HE1 port. This was done to allow for an easier direct replacement for the Ender 3 without having to change a connection type.

[@bridevalley]

Thank you for this very useful video. You have a knack for including such a lot in a clear and concise way. I have now ordered a SKR V1.4 Turbo for my Prusa Bear!

[@MrLeonardowolf]

amazing video, thank you for all the info and time you put on this

[@DKTRANSPORTER]

just ordered this board with an extra extruder so i can try multi color and 2209 the turbo bl touch touch screen and more cant wait to hook it all up when it arrives

[@onefootsbf]

I use dedicated probe pin for bl touch... It works well 🙂

[@doodle4532]

I have been sitting on one for a month and now with your help I'll get it done.

[@Alfas211]

i genuinely got my skr 1.4 today, was really confused, thank you for the guide!

[@vesslades]

Thank you for posting videos so often! Definitely the best channel

[@dm5124]

Thanks for your guidance. You may forget to mention that there is a long beep when starting up skr 1.4, this is normal. Github Marlin issue #13965 mentions about this long beep.

[@hotbrakepads]

Thanks for posting this. I just got this board and the information you provided is more than enough to get me up and running!

[@jeffweiss2131]

For "H" point in the wiring checklist at minute point 0:49 it is listed as "RED/BLACK HOT END FAN". That is actually the second hot end heater cartridge attacment point "HE1". The fan plug for the hot end is right next to the second hot end hookup point backed up to the part cooling fan..

[@brittanyb9098]

I know this is an old comment/video but for others who are confused by the HE1 on the board's pinout and find this comment like I just did, the H label on the diagram is correct. At 10:20, the firmware change E0_AUTO_FAN_PIN to P2_04 changes the hotend fan to the HE1 screw-in terminal. So if you are upgrading an Ender 3 (or other printer with a single extruder) and make the firmware changes as instructed, the hotend fan MUST be connected to the HE1 port. This was done to allow for an easier direct replacement for the Ender 3 without having to change a connection type.

[@fpvtrys2632]

have this board on ender 3 / cr10 s. and amazing results and 2208 drivers for the win.

[@noahlevin5854]

I've been looking for something like this, definitely interested in this.

[@mattlogue1300]

I may use it but definitely gonna watch this again.

[@bobpaugh6725]

I bought this board a couple of weeks ago and have been waiting on you to do video on it. Thank you so much.

[@WAStevenson]

They're great. I received mine a week or two ago for my MPCNC build. I uploaded the latest Marlin on it. Absolutely love it and will be using it on my next 3D printer build.Looking forward to watching your comments on it!

[@svenbe9381]

Thanks. It has been a great help improving my biqu B1. really good. I like your videos about laser cutting as well. for sure i will try this. Did you ever used the new marlin features for spindle and laser on this board?

[@dannyperkins4220]

I have ordered a SKR 1.4 turbo with 2209 drivers and a TFT35 display . I’m going to mount my boards on a test jig, build and set up marlin on the SKR and load the latest firmware for the TFT display. I’m going to use closed loop stepper motors on the x,y,z and setup sensor less homing for x,y as well. We all know how loud god laughs at man plans fingers crossed.

[@Iskelderon]

Thank you so much for creating this awesome resource! This is on my todo list for upgrading my Sovol S01 (a CR-10 clone with better build volume and various other improvements) in the upcoming months and a Hypercube EVO next year.

[@dtovee]

I bought a srk 1.4 turbo when they came out as a board from my recently, sort of, completed MPCNC Router. I tried to follow the guide on the low rider version with modification and I'm usign DRV8825 drivers as they are so cheap. It felt a bit bleeding edge but I've managed to get it working. The card is amazing for the cost about a quarter of an altenative suggested route. Thanks for your lower rider videos, this one and the rest. I don't know were you get the time. I've thought about TMC2209 but with a working solution, unless I see issues with the output, I'll leave it. I can't seem to get the sd card slot to work but I tend to use an octopi so it isn't an issue and I've got a BBT touch screen so I might have a go at using that to feed the gcode to the board.

[@thorstenschuett4720]

Alter Falter! Bestes Tutorial zum Einrichten des SKR 1.4 Turbo im Internet. Sehr detailliert, kenntnisreich und professionell präsentiert. Weiter so!

[@bepstein111]

Just a quick addition, the "Wifi Module" is just an ESP-01 (very basic version of the ESP8266) that you can get on aliexpress or banggood for like a buck each.

[@bepstein111]

You can use any FTDI or USB-Serial adapter to program them, that's all their BTT Writer is

[@toddcoello6461]

I am currently working on putting this in my Geeetech A20M. I just got the old board out and am now going through some wiring to get it in there. Hopefully all goes well. I already have the marlin a20m firmware on it and the 2209 drivers installed. I am hoping this weekend to be testing it.

[@idfengming]

Thanks for your fast teaching ability. i sovled my problem after watched you video several times

[@Lidocain777]

I'm in the process of converting my current printer to a SKR 1.4 Turbo + sensorless homing on X/Y axis. Should be fairly easy without using the pre-made configuration files. :)

[@enculer123]

Hi, nice too see a mainboard playlist here. A review with the Makerbase MKS Rumba32 will be great in this playlist. I didn't find anything of this mainboard. And I suppose you've seen the new creality cr6-se? What are you thinking? Thx for your videos

[@bigfoot650]

Great video as usual, very informative. I have just upgraded my dual Z axis ender 3 pro to the 1.4 turbo (my 1.3 failed). I was using individual stepper drivers for each z axis motor but decided to try the dual ports on the new board. After setting everything up I was getting random horizontal lines in my prints. Then I realized that because the 2 stepper motors are now running of one driver I needed to up the Vref for the Z axis as it was skipping steps. I was running at 0.8v, I had to up it to 1.1v and everything works fine now

[@sharkmusic9636]

*Well all know that rgb makes your prints print faster by around 420% !!!1111!11*

[@Guillaume1956]

That's the reason i'am going to use RGBWW LED Strips, printing at the speed of light :)

[@miketorri4776]

I really like SKR 1.3. I up graded my Ender-3 with these version board. Along with the SKR 1.3 upgrade add TMC2208 in Uart mode. I also added most of the add-ons that you publish with other video for the Ender-3. My Ender-3 is my go to printer. Turning out beautiful 3 D prints. I smoked my original Ender -3 mother board following the BL-Touch upgrade. Because the 5 volt color code wiring is confusing. You had other Video that I misted. It was cheaper to use 32 bit SKR 1.3 board that replacing original Ender-3 8 bit motherboard. And with this Convid-19 given time to upgrading my other self design 3-D printers with 32 bit SKR 1.3 or Re-Arm boards. I could not have done any of the upgrades without your video's. I like all your hard work Michael you put in your Video’s. Please keep up your good work. Thanks.

[@fury211]

Nice coverage, bought a 1.4 turbo and using it with my ender 3

[@kaihagenmaier211]

Did you get the ender 3 display to work? Mine ist powered up but with almost no contrast. I have no idea how to solve this...

[@fury211]

@@kaihagenmaier211 yep, you need to set the cr10 display as active in the firmware

[@anilmermer3414]

@@fury211 Do you use bltouch?

[@fury211]

no, capacitive sensor

[@Rabbid0281]

Big thanks to your video in helping streamline the upgrade process on my Tevo Tarantula Pro!

[@AndrewBlankNY]

Thanks for making the video. I have a Monoprice Maker Select V2 (Wanhao Duplicator i3 Clone) with many modifications to firmware, z-axis braces, E3d V6 Hotend, etc. However I'm still getting layer shifts and I'm starting to think it may be a bad mainboard or stepper driver. So I'm considering buying this board and some stepper motor drivers to get it working properly.

[@TRCCtv]

Where were you 4 days ago when i was stressed out like crazy setting this up, haha, kidding, i got it figured out, great video, only thing i cant figure out that i'd love some direction on, is setting up my octopi on serial so i can ditch the USB wire. I know you're supposed to use the TFT port, but my TFT35 is in that port.

[@marekpb]

Do you have any solution for this problem? I wonder if it's possible.

[@danielsampey4356]

I have removed my TFT and just use OctoPrint. For a touch screen replacement local to your printer install Octoprint plugin "Touch UI" and either get a touch screen for the Pi or use an android device to connect to Octoprints web interface with the TouchUi plugin enabled.

[@TRCCtv]

@@danielsampey4356 but i already have this stuff, honestly i can live with the USB sticking out the back if i have to, but i really dont think i have to because i know the SKR USB shares the com port with one of the EXP ports... i just dont know how to wire it up

[@DouglasK]

I have the 1.4 Turbo along with a set of TMC-2209s and the display on order. Looking forward to it!

[@phyranios]

Did it work? I'm having a hard time flashing marlin to it

[@DouglasK]

@@phyranios worked fine. You need to put the firmware file on the SD card and then reboot the printer. It will flash the firmware, then rename the firmware file.

[@tricky2k]

Michael, thanks a lot for your videos, one can learn a lot following your channel. One question, do you recommend the v1.4 over the 1.3 for a CR10S (not the pro, the regular one dual z-axis)? And also, which drivers, TMC2208 uart or 2209?

[@SteinerSE]

The only thing needed for the dedicated BLT probe port is to remap the Z_STOP_PIN in the pins file to P0_10 and BLT will work fine.

[@vagautohaus4492]

just saw your rear case for the ender 3, googled skr and found this, now i know what the heck an skr is, thanks for sharing - great vid, subbed!.. just wondered, theres a remix of your design 4487321 but the page states its for an skr, what can i use to change the holes in the right case and the left case to match your design? and also to add a little thickness to the lids.. is it a steep learning curve to change this? what would you use to make those changes? thanks!

[@KalaniHausman]

Thank you for reviewing this board! I needed a new board so am trying the same as you used! I like the 1.4 Turbo for dual power supply ports!

[@LuckRoller]

Great video, very detailed and informative. The only issue i have is that what is the difference between using 4 or 5 stepper motors? The skr i will be purchasing has 5 tmc2209 stepper motor drivers but in this vid only 4 are installed?

[@MRLIROCK]

Perfect timing Michael! I'm currently waiting for my skr 1.4 turbo and the tmc 2209's to ship so I can swap it into my Sidewinder X1. Excellent video as always!

[@doco6186]

Very concise and clear instructions. I'm presently in the process of configuring mine. This video is a great help. Thanks so much!

[@carbongsxr750]

I'm soo glad my 1.3 just showed up after ordering in january

[@skippy3111]

Hey Michael, great work on the video. Can you use the 5V output to power a raspberry pi? Will I need the DCDC module?

[@drtubbEGooberman]

Thank you for the excellent videos! At 12:42 you begin discussing the UART mode install. You Show the manual, and then a shot of your board in UART mode. It looks to me as though the jumpers are in the wrong place. Can you confirm/deny? :-)

[@L3X369]

Ordered one for my already ordered Ender 3 V2.

[@ChefDansHookah]

Very informative video, thank you kindly. My current printer that is down is a Sunlu S8 Pro with all manual bed levelling, it has a TMC2208 control board. Which one would you recommend that I get, that is more or less plug and play - in addition to the need for Marlin installation? Thank you much.

[@donz.519]

I just ordered the the 1.4 turbo and the 3.5 V3 display with wifi - knob to the side. Plus the TMC 2209. It will be a month before it all comes in. I hope this goes well.

[@jstsxgtzm9440]

I can tell you its going to get extremely difficult i dont get the fucking system running think wisely before changeing mainboards

[@gromann]

Mine's been in postal hell for a few weeks now but this video couldnt have come at a better time!

[@chetticus1]

Great videos! They have helped me a ton. I have one question, if I set the vref manually, do I have to set it in the firmware as well?

[@lsellclumanetsolarenergyll5071]

I will for sure upgrade to it with my Ender 3, BL Touch and heating enclosure and LED cage. Videos will come once I get some more issues figured out with the ABS I am currently using. I sure need ABS because I have productions for ABS already lined up for my Business. Also I got 2 S42B stepper motors and got myself a bunch of TMC2226 stepper drivers as well.

[@deanioannidis7333]

Hello, Did the board work well with the tmc2226, and did you need to add any additional wiring. Thanks, Dean

[@lsellclumanetsolarenergyll5071]

@@deanioannidis7333 works very well have them in use now since a year and all I done is cut of the 1 pin so I can run them proper. I use them for the Z and extruders since we use close loop S42B 2.0V for X&Y

[@bitsurfer0101]

I like how you added the led strip below your cooling fan. What type of extruder do you have on there? Thanks for posting.

[@fernandorosas8457]

Hi Michael, thank you for your great content and detailed work. I have an issue, I have a CR-10s and ignorant enough (even tho I researched a lot for compatibility) I bought an SKR mini E3, when trying to plug it all I realized it is not compatible with the Creality board V2.1. I realize now that the board I need is the SKR 1.4. Is this correct? Is there a way to use the SKR mini E3 instead? Do you know of a guide to connect either the SKR mini E3 or the SKR 1.4 to the Creality CR-10s? Cheers and keep up the great work.

[@ratler5]

Thanks for posting this! Got mine last week, followed your guide and the drivers are working well but i am having lots of issues, the main difference is I am using a delta. Any chance you could show some of the differences for a delta setup?

[@jaybow2us]

I have been running mine for about a month. Found out the DRV8825's were missing micro-steps making wavy walls. Ordered TMC2209s, can't wait till they get here but they are not considered essential by Amazon so now I'm waiting.

[@SaverioPieri]

I use the turbo since few weeks. The only complain I have is the lack of 5V mosfet output to connect noctua fan. Some trouble with the BL Touch dedicated port. Btw it's a great and affordable board

[@hashemmi24]

There is no better guide for this conversion !

[@DrTriggered]

I've just finished assembling the CNC lowrider while following your tutorial. It would be nice if you can update the board to a 1.4 in your final video with a laser added on as well as your quick removal idea you suggested. (and upgraded belt holders the 1st gen sucks)

[@Steven23452]

@teaching Tech - Thanks for this! ... I had to go it alone based on your 1.3 video ... did you find any documentation stating anything about the PWR pin for the DCDC Module? or did you just look at the board schematic and infer it? ..