DR650 Replacing Steering Head Bearings!

[@Exident]

Mark - your accent and the whole way of speaking is so funny for my German ears. I sit in the train learning and laughing at the same time. And for the guy next to me it’s quite surprising how someone is laughing to a mechanic video ... keep it up. I love it bloody.

[@michaeldemarillac9992]

C spanner (used for adjusting shock absorbers)works on the collar which is a better method of undoing the collar compared with hitting it around with a hammer and screwdriver. First class job, hats off to you Mark.

[@bobdrakeford5731]

Hi Mark! You have done a great job. I reckon the bearing stiffness, and marks on the race is your issue. Definately needed change for smooth operation. Luv your idea to slit the outer race to use when driving the bearings on. Just a side note, if you freeze the bearing races, warm up the housing it helps. Heat expands, cold contracts. But, fantastic effort. I just luv guys having a go at stuff they haven't done before. 👍😁

[@wobblysauce]

If you can see it you can feel it.

[@leechamberlain1273]

HI Mark, The heat and freeze tips already given below are great idea. To refit the races you can make up a press /puller from a length of thredded steel, you can then use your large socket set to sit on top of the race and pull them into place . Keep kepping on doing what your doing sport .

[@michaeldemarillac9992]

Colling is possible but it should remain room temperature high tensile carbon becomes too brittle and could be damaged when knocking it in.

[@ciccorilla]

Bloody great job Mark. You’re an inspiration to all us noobs.

[@simonwyatt6453]

Hiya Mark Thankyou for taking the time to show how its done, great video and narration. I watched your video this afternoon and i have stripped old worn bearings from headstock as i am also doing the fork seals at the same time. Your advice was much appreciated and gave me the confidence to remove the bearings myself.

[@BikerBits]

Bloody Ripper mate and good Onya! 👍

[@CamperKev]

In the past, I have only really thought about steering head bearings, as doing the job of rotating the front end for steering purposes. Meaning little forces would be applied to those bearings. However, now after thinking about it, I can see that they take a lot of force, every time the front brake is applied. I have more respect for those bearings now. Thanks for another excellent video Mark.

[@BrewCityRider]

Good on you for calmly working through all the issues. I'm sure the shops have all kinds of specialty tools to make that an easy operation. That reminds me...I need to grease my steering head bearings haha!

[@bradpeebles9158]

Cheers mate, as always, you light the way for the rest of us!!!!! Many thanks for showing a common sense procedure.

[@jacksondoughty]

I will always watch videos featuring MAX! Thanks for another great and informative video!

[@bikecommuter24]

Mark just a tip. That piece you use the hammer and chisel on, a Shock spanner works excellent for those. And yes sticking the races in the freezer will make it contract and easier to install. we did that in the military and bearings that went on shafts were heated in a oil bath to expand and make them easier to install and I'm talking about bearings as big as a dinner plate. You can make also make a race installer using a large washer ,socket and a long piece of all thread rod with a nut on the end to thread it in. I got the idea from Edd China on Wheeler Dealers.

[@BIG-K]

Good, systematic and common sense approach, Mark. I might even have a go at doing that when the time comes. And the filming and editing did you proud, mate. KOR 👍

[@natkimgold]

G’day Mark great job and no dummies spat, lots of great helpful comments here also, greatly appreciated to add to the knowledge base. Cheers 🍻

[@kentuckyjustice1408]

Man, what a job! "Thumbs up" from this Kentucky boy.

[@allenhuling598]

Well done, Mark! Always appreciate it when someone jumps in and pulls off something they had never done before! Like Delboy says, 'How hard can it be?'

[@Speedytrip]

Great content, love your humble, no non-sense approach!

[@alexmorton8659]

Hey, Mark, for a bloke that knows not much of bikes, you really do a stearling job, well done mate, most guys watching this wouldnt dare go there! "keep on stipping, keep on fixing, and we'll keep on watching!" Hey, that could even be a new slogan for one of your shows? Cheers Alex

[@japfourme381]

Good Job Mark, well done!!

[@ChefHikerBiker]

What a great surprise, I was expecting this to be a Man Cave video. Another wonderful episode.

[@soundzrinmygarden3833]

Hi Mark. A good little trick for the bearing on the bottom triple clamp is to run a weld around the inner race which heats it up and expands the race. It will then just fall off. You can do the same with an outer race when it is inside something, if you can easily pick it up...not a whole motorbike. Then when the outer race is hot from the weld you can quench it in a bucket of water, bang the component on the ground and the outer bearing race will just fall out onto the ground. I use to do this all the time on conveyor rollers when I worked as a maintenance fitter at Coca Cola.

[@shanekfalcon]

Great job Mark. A couple of things I have learnt that may be a help for anyone. I hang two occupied straps from the roof and use them to suspend the handlebars away. Crack as many bolts and nuts before disassembly.. The notched nut may need to be set with a torque wrench and special tool. A dead blow hammer may help with safety when removing the races.

[@dprider02]

Nice job Mark. Regarding the NSU screws, when I checked mine they weren't loose, but they weren't exactly tight either. I probably could have undone them with two fingers on the screwdriver. Whether or not they would have ever come undone we'll never know, but I was certainly surprised how lightly they had been torqued down, and I did feel better after checking and tightening them in properly using some loctite. Pretty easy job really.

[@streetmoto1384]

Good effort Mark, big job out of the way!

[@missilpeludo8813]

Mark tank you very very much! I follow your video to change my dr650 steering bearing and helps a lot! I change just one thing and becomes easier, previously I applied “liquid wrench “ and tooks just 30min to remove all bearings

[@metaldog7128]

Ha mark that was a nice surprise 👍 biker bits on a Saturday great stuff

[@travelswithjim7569]

Mark, Just a couple of tips I have learned over the past 50+ years of working on bikes. Heat and cold can e real friends when replacing bearings. What I try to do is remove everything from the front of the bike, including the fuel tank. To remove the bearing races, I use a propane torch to heat the steering head, since it is not hardened steel it will expand faster than the bearing races and make them easier to remove. Being careful not to heat anything plastic or rubber. That is the reason for completely stripping the front of the bike.Similarly a little heat directly on the race after the stem is removed, will make them easier to remove. Then into the freezer with the bearings and the steering stem for hours. I usually leave them in overnight. Apply a little heat to the races and they will go in very easy with only a slight tap. Just remember heat expands steel and cold freezes steel making the job easier. Good luck with the next bearing replacement, that I know you will be doing since you have a road bike, a dual sport bike and postie bikes up the kazoo.

[@samuelyeet6006]

Is it just me or is some of this mixed up? You said a little bit of heat on the racer after the stem is removed to easily remove them, is this the one on the stem? You said heat wont expand the hardened steal as fast as the other metal, then after that you said to freeze the bearings and stem, why would you freeze the bearing? You would heat them wouldnt you? Just so you know, I'm in the middle of trying to get my bearing off of the lower stem, froze it for 2 hours, took a torch to the inner racer for the bearing on the stem, been wacking at it for half an hour and nothing at all, this method will not work unless it already wants to come off

[@Sum4Seb]

Good job Mark, I had to change Summer's when she had her crash. We've owned a few DR's now and never wasted time checking the NSU screws either and my last DR had over 64000kms on it... buy them, ride them and enjoy them! Great video, hope Nay and yourself have a great day 😀

[@sebastiendurero2246]

Good job Mark. Two things to make your life easier. Hang the bars with a strap to ceiling, it will be out of the way. Also, removing the tank can give some room. I don't know for how long you had that DR, but the bearing you removed were not the original. I think someone took care of the originals one just before you ;)

[@ابوفيصل700]

Mark..alwayes doing the best

[@jefferyubxpkvvbvgbarr2403]

Hi I fitted a grease nipple to the frame from new and pumped it full of grease hopefully will never need to replace them

[@rebkong]

YOU SAY THE NIPPLE :o

[@smittyk7810]

Now that is an excellent idea and how easy is it to drill a hole and tap out a thread then screw it in. I'm doing that job next to my DR. Thanks for sharing. :)

[@soundzrinmygarden3833]

I think a few of us will be running with this grease nipple idea. My DRZ400 had a weird notchy feeling in the steering. I got lucky by stripping it, greasing up the bearings and now she steers like new. Mine had bugger all grease in there though to begin with. At least once you've changed the bearings you know they're new. Great video, old Mark will take on any challenge won't he.

[@Exident]

Where exactly did you screw in?

[@xr6lane]

Well done for having a go, word of advice, before you start this job, stick the new races in the freezer. By the time you’re ready to install the new races, they will literally fall home, if you can handle the frozen races with silicone tongs they will stay cold longer as they won’t absorb the heat from your hands. This method will also work then you eventually split the case for 3rd gear 😉 KOR mate, might run into you one day

[@allanroyle7622]

I'm teasing you Mark...your garage is cleaner than my hobby room,for sure 😉

[@jeeves6490]

Ha, First. No.1 baby. Now that the juvenile stuff is done I'll watch. Big week for keeping up with biker bits.👍

[@Bowlin01]

Bloody Hell Mark, you don't know how many times I felt myself wincing during that video! :-) All good in the end though, keep it up

[@neilwiddison6529]

Nice work still watching you from the UK. NEIL.

[@michaeldemarillac9992]

Should use 100% lithium L2 grease for this particular job. L2 Grease has drop point upto 190 Deg C and penetration from 265 - 295 hence provide ultimate lubrication to bearing and extends bearing life. Everybody should have this as the go to grease in their mancave.

[@hubertfraczek7927]

hey.you also use large set to replace the bearings :) and in the rear wheel it was guessing 32 :) greetings from Ireland

[@ProjectRedfoot]

Love your content, Mark!

[@paulhooper8635]

Recently did mine on my Virago XV1000. I feel your pain.

[@robedmunds7163]

Well done mate. I usually sell the bike when that needs doing 😂

[@vstromer5785]

good job mark.

[@smittyk7810]

Hey Mark, you also need to lubricate the starter motor as well. Mr Suzuki was lean on providing grease for many moving parts and a starter motor is more expensive to replace than the steering head bearings. I have noticed the sound Max makes and I think it needs some grease. When I did my DR 650 there was surface rust and dust galore because water gets past the rubber seal which needs waterproof grease. Look into getting a threat file. It is an essential tool to repair threads for a range of common thread pitches (course to fine, SAE and metric). Max grease is the best as you thought. You have to pack the bearing cage with grease as well or the bearings will wear out again.

[@elliot7179]

Finally haha took you a while , looks much better and smoother

[@Richard-qx5ds]

Hi m8 good job👍hell yeah the outer face trick awesome

[@markh4763]

I would say that they were a little light on the grease from the factory!! Isn't it a good feeling when you complete a repair that you have never done before!!

[@TadVarn]

Instead of chisel or punch, You can just use a steel tube with just a little bit bigger inner diameter than the bearing itself to drive the new bottom bearing on the axle. It distributes and centers the force and goes way easier and faster :) Anyway, thanks for the informal and entertaining video. Going to to the same job for my girlfriends old DR650RSE. Already see some small differences, probably because its an older gen, probably also because its an RSE with full front fairings, but I think the main mechanical elements are more or less the same. It will also get some new oil to forks. Was a little bit surprised about the volume of those forks. Had to buy 2liters for one bike, so just bought 3L and it will be enough for my DR too. Good luck everyone :)

[@garthhowe297]

Good job... that was a lot of work. About the only thing I know about tapered bearings, is to not have them tightened (preloaded) much. First time I did them on a car, they melted essentially... didn't know I was supposed to only lightly tighten the nut, once the bearings are seated. Ooops Well... I did a better job the second time around. lol

[@Chris_Z.]

Great Job. While apart you could have fitted the steering stabilizer [Dampener]. Save you having to pull apart your handle bars again.

[@alexmorton8659]

Its not fair, when have ever uploaded a video on a Sat arvo?

[@tooflyklu]

What that brace on your frender! I need me one of them!

[@nikturner8810]

Well done Mark, Of course you could have removed the brake calipers and removed the whole front end as one unit saving the need to spend time removing the front wheel and mudguard from the forks. Other than that? Grand job! 😎😎

[@johnkaze7437]

Good job

[@joefisher4267]

Good job Mark. One tip, you shouldn't grease the outside of a bearing race. It needs to stay put, and greasing it can cause it to spin.

[@thatlinuxguy]

What year is your bike because I have a 2010 with 32000km and I don't have any issues with the bearings, so maybe your right. Maybe it was just a bad batch eons ago.

[@alanteague2404]

Hi there Mark, Just replaced my steer bearings on my Himalayan. I noticed you had 21000ks on the DR which is a lot more k's than I got out of the Himalayan before I started getting steer problems. 7000 is all I got before replacing. You were lucky to find some grease still on yours, mine were dry as. While I was at it I checked the swing arm as well and found same problem. I know the Himalayan is a budget bike but come on Enfield that's just not good enough. In saying that I'm still happy with for its off and on road performance. Can't fault the engine and ride quality. Anyway talking about the Himalayan, how's your mate or is it inlaw going with his? Love some feed back on his thoughts.

[@scottminshall6420]

Mark we got to get you a proper mechanics hammer!😊

[@utdesertghost199]

Who makes the windscreen you have mounted on this bike?

[@BikerBits]

Screens for bikes!

[@adventureguy4119]

Mate, can you tell me does the upper clamp bolts flush with the end when fully Installed mine are about 10mm from being flush and they are stalk bolts!

[@BikerBits]

Flush to the line where the cap screws down!

[@GregInMesa]

When tapping it on go from one side to the opposite side.

[@michaelkaylor6770]

Quote of the day, "just needed a bloody good women!"

[@toby7504]

Nice work mark.. but Max need a bath,:)

[@gcanaday1]

As far as the lower bearing cage, I just use a screwdriver and let the old bearings go everywhere when I get the cage deformed enough to pop off.

[@gsamanyika75]

Hey mark next time put them in the deepfreeze

[@froggmann1983]

If you put a couple of extra turns on that lock nut you won’t need to fit your new steering damper , the surplus steering damper could be mailed to my address...👍😂😂😂

[@bikernation136]

👍

[@thumpergman]

Need to use a real hammer mate, not a carpenters hammer

[@chenderson4969]

Less tapping required

[@jesse6460]

🍺

[@Woodeneyejust]

If only you had a steering damper, you could have fit it at the same time

[@hoystyler]

Dirty Dax Max

[@BikerBytes]

First👍

[@thebigw3377]

Should have installed a grease nipple

[@oyleyhands1332]

Bloody clean yer bloody bike before you bloody work on the bloody thing... ;-)

[@Exident]

That’s also my opinion, I even hoover my garage before I start working on the bike. If I can avoid dust and un-tidiness ... i avoid it. 😁 Cleaning is fun! Try it.

[@MegaRich7]

No, I’m first