DR650 Replacing Rear Wheel Bearings

[@anniewhite6459]

Hope you put the outer cushdrive spacer the right way round before you put the wheel back in, the end with the lip goes towards the seal. I noticed you had the spacer arse about face when you sat it back in the seal.

[@BikerBits]

+annie white G'day mate, not sure what you saw but I don't think you can even put that spacer around the wrong way... it can only slot in one way. Cheers anyway :-)

[@anniewhite6459]

If you have a look at 14.48 you can see the spacer is the wrong way round, you can see the lip and where the seal runs on the spacer.

[@BikerBits]

+annie white Oh shit your right mate! Nice pickup :-) Thanks will have to check and turn it around as I reckon that's how I put it in! Your a bloody LEGEND :-)

[@stevenjohn4]

annie white a

[@BikerBits]

I just checked and I did put it back the wrong way... have now fixed and is in the correct way. THANKS HEAPS again mate!! :-)

[@rodsreel]

A big thumbs up fae the Scottish Highlands. "Braw min Braw" very useful. Also a big thanks to the lad who spotted the spacer in the wrong way round. All good.

[@carstenmartindallmer3728]

thumps up mate,sold my sportster and got myself a xf 650 recently.Your down to earth video helped me a lot with the bearings:)

[@Boom-ou1vb]

Great video! These are priceless for people who are about to dive into these types of jobs for the first time as well.

[@andrewcarter7866]

At 1:30 (Doesn't matter which way it goes in..) They can go in either way, but only one side has the bearing numbers. If everyone got in the habit of installing bearings with the numbers facing out the world would be a better place. :-) There comes a day everyone will eventually say, "Ahh balls...I have to tear that all apart just to get a part number off it..why the hell is the part number on the INSIDE???".... That said, props on an awesome channel! No yelling and screaming, no dubstep at 150db, and we get to see you make mistakes like the rest of us do. Interesting content, you say bloody doovalackey a lot, and you have a great attitude and can laugh at yourself. I bought a DR650 this fall, and only got a small amount of riding in before the snow hit. It makes for a long winter when it's -30c with the windchill out there....but your videos help. Keep up the great work. Can't wait for the XT250 project....and...spring.

[@kentuckyjustice1408]

Don't it feel good when you can accomplish your repairs yourself. It educates you for field repairs as well. It seems you're becoming quite the expert. "Thumbs up" from this Kentucky boy.

[@livingthedream9400]

Good on ya mark another great video. For an average bloke your doing a great job. Just so ya know us average blokes out there are watching ya vids and bloody enjoy em. Live the dream mate.

[@sixty8fury]

Love your videos. I ride a KLR and my buddy rides a DR. He always asks how I know so much about the DR. The KLR is very similar. A couple of recommendations: Use the axle as a guide to keep the spacer centered when tapping the second bearing in. I put a little grease on the spacer to keep it from rusting. I also put a little grease on the lip of the seals to keep water away from the bearings. Normal wet weather riding is not a problem but water crossings cool the bearings and they can suck water in past the seals. Keep on videoing! And riding of course.

[@michaelbdoherty]

Another awesome video Mark. I was yelling at the screen the spacer is in backwards, glad others caught that also. You need an assortment of brass or aluminum drifts to keep the damage to a minimum. Get a small nylon mallet and a seal pry tool. Putting the bearings in a Ziploc bag in the freezer keeps the moisture to a minimum. Overall you did great. Good job!

[@randynelson5614]

Used for video to help change my wheel bearings today, questioned the cush drive spacer glad you got that haha. You have some the best how to dr650 videos and thanks for the help!

[@kadirjimenez945]

I am preparing my DR650 for make a big ride from Panama until Ushuaia in Argentina, your videos are very Good for all the repairs that i have to make to the bike, change bearing of the steering, both wheels and another things that have to do. regards from PANAMA.

[@benjy288]

I haven't done the wheel bearings yet, I just ordered some, but I've done the swingarm and suspension linkage bearings, I didn't use a hammer to install them, I just used the swingarm axle with some washers and a socket and used it to press fit them in, I think that ways better because you can put the dust seal in on the other end to keep the axle straight and that way your bearing won't go in crocked when you press them in.

[@Moonfleet41]

Hi there Mark, thanks so much for the mention in your video, that's very kind of you mate.. great job on the wheel bearing and a great video... really watchable and subbed, take it easy mate, ride safe, keep in touch, Del

[@BikerBits]

+Moonfleet41 G'day Del, my pleasure mate and I've put a link in the description to that video now as well... you explain a lot about why things are a certain way which is great! Cheers... Mark

[@allenhuling598]

Good vid, Mark, thanks for sharing! Glad to know that you are another fan of Delboy's Garage. His was the first channel I ever subbed to and still a favorite! Keep them coming!

[@BikerBits]

+Allen Huling Thanks heaps Allen :-)

[@owlteachereducation]

Nice job mate and glad you got that spacer sorted! Did the rear wheel bearings on my Thunderbird Sport to get it through its MOT this summer. Watched the video from Delboy's Garage to guide me through the process. Had the same heart-in-your-mouth moments when things got tricky. All good, new skills! Ride safe dude.

[@berniebne8243]

Mark, enjoyed your video very informative great job. I'd like to add a couple of things and I'm not criticising. Please treat yourself to a Thorex nylon hammer, so useful for tapping delicate things. The reason the spacer is in the centre of the wheel is to stop you pushing the inner races out of the bearings. Which is why one should use a torque wrench, or have a sense of the correct torque, when tightening the rear wheel. That's one of many ways wheel bearings get destroyed. Your postie bikes have exactly the same setup.

[@gbull123]

Hi Mark Always enjoy your videos and often pick up a few tips. One in return.. when I did my bearings for the first time a few years ago I used a dynabolt from the hardware store. Get the right size and pop it inside the bearing hole then tighten it up. Flip the wheel and then just knock out the dynabolt which has the bearing stuck to it. Quick and easy with no need for the punch. Cheers

[@leesuschrist]

I can tell you do a lot of water crossings with your DR. Your sprocket is a lot more corroded than mine and that cush drive bearing is toast! Good thing you took care of this!

[@jamesarmstrong2707]

That spacer with the grove worn in it that you wondered about ... THAT is where all the dirt got in and destroyed the old bearing ... It's pooched . You could either turn it end for end and see if the seal rides on a fresh area ( as I see you had done after I watched further ) or it'll need a new one .

[@kevingambrell]

Hello Mark. Id strongly recomend you get your self a copper hide mallet and some aluminum drifts.. Using a claw hammer on this type of work is begging for trouble. Spot on with not adding grease to sealed bearings. You can over pack a bearing. Go find your local model engineering club, have a chat with them and see if one of them will make you up some bearing drifts. Great video by the way.

[@1200snoopy]

Mark your DR650 videos are your forte. I've sold my DR650 now (bought a Africa Twin ) after rebuilding it from your videos which were invaluable but I still love watching your show. Keep them going mate. How about greasing the steering head next?

[@Bigfoot109]

Another great video Mark, love your honesty when you stuff up, keep riding ... Danny ...

[@HikoRuo]

The inner races of the bearings must come in passive contact with the spacer. The spacer should be able to move up on down with slight finger pressure, but not free floating. This is to make sure there is no side loading on the bearings once the axle nut pulls everything together at 100nm of torque. The proper way of installing wheel bearings is to first tap in the right bearing to home, and then tap the second bearing til its inner race comes in light passive contact with the spacer. The art is knowing when to stop when tapping in the second bearing.

[@DailyDerpsicorn]

Man those bearings have seen some better days! But considering the adventures you've gone on, that's expected. Awesome video as always! I'll be doing my front wheel bearings this weekend, hopefully your spirit will guide my hands! haha

[@BikerBits]

+Daily Derps LOL... good Onya mate! :-)

[@LenTheKiwi]

Good job. That video will come in handy in the near future. Thanks...

[@MrDapperdantheman]

I did my bearings last year on my de650 and I was pleasantly suprised that you had the same debacle that I had with the rear wheel spacer being too tight. :-D

[@michaelkaylor6770]

Pro-ish Tip. Mark, I found that using a dead blow(lead shot) mallet worked a bit better by reducing the bounce back from the hammering of the bearing out and back in. I also added a bit of grease in the open area between the spacer and the wheel and a bit on the inner race of the space. i hope I am not leading anyone astray, if someone has better info please chime-in for the benefit of all! Cheers Mike

[@BikerBits]

+Michael Kaylor That's great info mate and agree! :-)

[@rebus20]

Love your videos. Youve helped me immensely with my dr650. Thanks for the effort.

[@donbraham411]

Awesome, I’m getting ready to do this to my DR. Thanks for the video.

[@kkunkel8]

Is that an aftermarket valve 90 degree extension? Link if you have one please.

[@Chris_Z.]

Well Done. Use a plastic bag to put the bearings in when putting in freezer. May help with stopping moisture.

[@BikerBits]

+Chris Z Great idea... thanks! :-)

[@ronkierstead]

I tossed the entire box with seal and bearing into the freezer. I liked the heat gun. I tried a blow torch, set the rim on fire, then ran into the house for some sausages and a stick. Pro tip: moly grease tastes like shit. ;)

[@doodie107]

Thanks for the vid. Very helpful

[@supermick83]

There would be play on the old bearings where the new ones wouldn't have much so spacer is fine. It rotates with the inner part of the bearing so no harm. Great video love to see a man stress out over shit he's not sure of same as I do👍

[@waynerodgers7515]

Gday I'm thinking about buying a dr650 it's a 1999 model done about 30,000 is there anything different from later models or common problems any advice of what to check for thx

[@justgjt]

Better off using a brass drift as it wont gouge anything when knocking things out. Good job Mark ; )

[@BikerBits]

+justgjt Yeah should have thought of that... thanks! :-)

[@mollygrubber]

I see a vape mod on your bench Mark, are you doing that to quit smoking? How are you making out? Worked instantly for me, I loved it. Good video, thanks for posting that!

[@Nostrildomus]

Lol . . . Noticed since he quit his bench has filled to the point he's back on knees doing large chore . ; -) P.S. Tell him there is no bent spoke . It will drive him that much closer to lighting up . Thanks be

[@jonathanburke6255]

Having replaced bearings for many commercial applications, I will give this advice: Use heat to separate components that are seized together from corrosion or a type of thread-locker, but not on a press-fit bearing. You freeze the bearings to "shrink" the metal and make them easier to install, so why in the world would you heat up the journal you are installing them into? You are shrinking one piece and expanding the other. Remember, when you heat metal, it expands in EVERY direction, meaning the opening diameter becomes smaller not larger...

[@jonathanburke6255]

All this time later, and I learned I was WRONG in this comment. I have frozen bearings to shrink them and help them fit, but never had to mess with the part the bearing seats INTO. I have found that heating the part the bearing seats into IS the correct method. It was hard for me to visualize, but when heated, the circumference of the metal pocket that the bearing seats into DOES increase because of the force that the particles along the perimeter exert on each other… making the “hoop” bigger. Anyway, just had to correct myself… when I’m wrong I have to own up to it to clear my conscience…lolol

[@alfredokofman2010]

My bearings are seated too tight, meaning that the inner spacer doesn't move, how can I fix this?

[@ChaoticDetour]

To much grease can actually cause a bearing to overheat. I know this from experience, repacking old non sealed bearings. Glad it went well overall. Ready for another 4 years or more....(how long have you had Max...?)

[@flipper99one]

nice videos, But even better at 1.5 speed..

[@boxhead7180]

Heating up the hub makes the hole get smaller as the metal expands in all directions. You should have put both the hub and the bearings in the freezer. And I wouldn't use a steel hammer on a steel socket on a steel bearing. I'd be using a block of wood between the hammer and the bearing to get the bearing in, then use the socket to drive it once you get down into the hub, but with the wood on top of the socket. I've seen a hammer chip from hitting steel on steel. But good video as usual. 👍

[@diadlo13]

Sorry but you're not correct. Heat will expend the inner diameter of a metal part that is being heated. Just have to look up bearing heater and you'll see it's actually way more common to heat a part then to cool it down.

[@Finke.]

@@diadlo13 You don't make any sense ... you've just contradicted yourself ... Boxhead is correct ... heating alloy expands in this application which decreases the diameter for insertion of the bearing ... there is zero need to heat the alloy rim ... by all means place the bearing in the freezer to shrink but don't heat the rim to expand, that is pointless & defeats the whole purpose ... heat guns/oxy are misunderstood & misused as heat is primarily used as an anti-seize in order to release ...

[@philmartyn5594]

Hi Mark I love your videos, please don't pull yourself down by calling yourself an idiot words are dangerous to yourself. Jesus Loves you 😃👍 Keep on riding and keep on keeping on.

[@philbrookman3126]

good vid man well explained

[@kadiocalc]

Beautiful

[@BikerBits]

+kadiocalc Thanks mate! :-)

[@nigelmitchell351]

Buy yourself a copper mallet mate and use a piece of wood against the seal. When you tap or push the second wheel bearing home take it the last bit with a flat washer across both races of the bearing then you won't leave the bearings pre loaded and fucked

[@bikecommuter24]

Cool, I also watch some of Dellboy's videos.

[@Jaimelapoesie]

Great, now I’ve got to carry a generator, a heat gun, and a freezer/fridge combo with me on my rides, in case a bearing goes!

[@bikernation136]

Great video mark 👍. You invented a new word 😂 snush. Snug + flush = snush 🤣😂

[@DainiusKaupaitisSan]

If you check Service manual again, you will see, that - yes - left bearing has a little clearance between it ant the shelf. But there is no clearance between bearing and spacer! So you should hammer it until it sits on spacer. Here is an drawing ibb.co/c5LQ6G

[@Nostrildomus]

Difficult for us watching any procedure done , and not offering some criticism along the way . Other than the bent spoke , your sprocket is well on it's way to spitting some teeth but new bearings should help getting all you can out of it . I've taken to advising those knowing a long Adv. will take them from flats to hard core trail and back , carrying the smaller front sprocket taped inside the side cover for a much more enjoyable time trying to keep up with mates roosting you in the rough stuff . Thanks for the good show . Thanks be

[@generaldistrust]

I've found a healthier rear KLR650 wheel than my DR650's current rear.. is it fittable for the DR650 by any chance?

[@BikerBits]

Sorry don't know!

[@generaldistrust]

@@BikerBits thx though 🙏🏽

[@progguy10]

what size socket fit the bearing to pound them in?

[@npaidas]

you ever get an answer here ? i know the smaller one is a 32 . But i also want to know what the bigger one is ?

[@nakedbeachrider8798]

Mark, are those the original bearings, and if so how many Km's did they last?

[@BikerBits]

+NakedBeachRider Yes they are and have done 20,000 Adventure Kms not commuting.

[@andrewpenna3102]

Enjoy watching Mark, but you need some more tools. Cheers

[@BikerBits]

+Andrew Penna I can only live in hope :-)

[@jackiewhite6201]

I think i would seat the bearing and shave a tiny amount of length of the spacer.

[@ironwolph]

Why did the bearing that came out of my bike look way different then the oem one I got from the store....

[@BikerBits]

Don’t know?

[@progguy10]

the bike comes with bearings that are only sealed on one side because suzuki is just shockingly legendarily cheap. most likely any replacement bearing purchased would be sealed on both sides

[@GuzzFieldTonKi]

You probably already know about this, but ADVrider has a really good thread chock full of DR650 info. advrider.com/index.php?threads/the-dr650-thread.135295/

[@YZuki54]

You should use puller bearing !

[@Luistip]

...bloody surgery intervention. The patient will survive but for a short time... :)

[@heyshorrtty7001]

Hahahaha just cracked up with you saying rickety ricketies. Small things. By the way Nays proving ground has been blocked off. Apparently private property???? Buggers!!

[@BikerBits]

Yeah it's been that way for about a year now... and yeah bugger! :-) It's always been private property but they never worried about people using it. Maybe it changed owners.

[@TomHo147]

the spacer should not move that freely

[@ryuricha5979]

How do you know when u should replace bearings ?

[@BikerBits]

Grab the top of the wheel and try and move it from side to side. If you feel movement or knocking that normally means the bearings are stuffed.