Scroll starter for forging scrolls - blacksmithing tools

[@bryanrobinson1980]

"Go Big or Go Home" needs to be our state motto for Texas!!!

[@tomayrscotland6890]

Hi Blackbear forge, I watched your video this Morning 04/05/22 on your Candle holder, i great gift idea, I will get on to that in the morning, thanks for the tips yet again.

[@andywright2606]

Nice looking tool John. An easy enough project but very useful for getting that fiddly work done. Thanks for another very practical tool.

[@janmorse2162]

Thank you John, I have an abundance of sucker rod and will make myself one to fit my anvil as well as one for my son's anvil.

[@Outdoors_withmike]

Ive been watching this channel only about 2 weeks, but i find it very easy to follow. Ive been thinking about trying to set up a forging shop; and ive learned a ton so far. I really liked his video on small shop hacks and tips.

[@MarkDavisCFM]

Another useful tool, thanks John! I'm away from my shop for a few days, but as soon as I get back, I'm forging a scroll starter!

[@Outdoors_withmike]

Mark Davis what does fishtail mean? Im pretty new to this type of work.

[@MarkDavisCFM]

Hey Michael, I'm pretty new at this too, but just like the fish lips I imagine it's just what it says...as in you don't want the edges to start fanning out like a fish tail too much!

[@Outdoors_withmike]

Mark Davis ok, i guess i should have thought about it a bit more! That makes a lot of sense.

[@jojomama4787]

Another useful tool,again,I thank you...

[@loul7239]

Glad I found your channel for sure. This is a great channel. You, along with a few others, should create a union of channels focused on the presentation of good, reliable information on blacksmithing. If you share viewers something amazing (for all of us) could happen.

[@billwoehl3051]

When I couldn't get the coupling off the 3/4" sucker rod I got, I threw it in the forge and then in the vise, and went at it with the pipe wrench, worked on the ones I had.

[@billwoehl3051]

John, my landlord has a scrap area all the locals drop stuff off at, just an old farm area, am allowed to grab stuff out of it, never thought I would run across a sucker rod in South Dakota, but, sure enough, there's one in there, he said he could have someone bring it to my house since it's about 20' long.

[@BlackBearForge]

Nice find

[@tonylewis7644]

thanks for another very useful tool

[@Pseud0rand0m]

Very cool tool John, thank you. I make Trolls Crosses and this will be helpful indeed.

[@adeelkarlie2724]

Hi there sir. This was another great video of yours. Thanks for sharing you're knowledge. I'm from Cape Town S A

[@BlackBearForge]

Thanks for watching

[@grandadz_forge]

Well thanks. You've just saved me another $50. Was about to get a scroll attachment for my Chinesium bender. Amazing how mere techniques can replace entire contraptions.

[@BlackBearForge]

Skill at the anvil can replace a whole shop if specialty tools.

[@paulorchard7960]

Interesting tool John, never seen or heard of it before. I could use one so will make one! Thanks mate!

[@BlackBearForge]

No problem 👍

[@kensmapleleafretirement]

Thank you for the video. My scrolls are a work in progress. Too many kinks, It gets cold before I get it done. BUT, It is getting better everyday... Thanks for the inspiration......

[@BlackBearForge]

Its all just a matter of practice.

[@Wickedstickyflowers]

You must be very accurate to avoid strikes to that shoulder I'll save my comments till the end

[@gregsmith3289]

Nice work. I have about 4' of square 1" stock that I think was once a plow axle. I think I'll use some of that and give this a try. Thanks.

[@Theelderdragon01]

Never used one. Just worked the scroll over the horn. Looks interesting .

[@BlackBearForge]

Forging scrolls free hand at the anvil is certainly the best way to develop skills.

[@andresmedina9967]

Very interesting tool. Im going to make on. Thanks. I have just made scrolls using dirty smiths approach.

[@BlackBearForge]

Forging scrolls using only hammer and anvil is a very valuable skill.

[@joelinn89]

Another option to remove the bit without heat, would be to split the coupling lengthwise. Once it is split it will release off from the threads and it should spin right off.

[@anthonykent7983]

Thanks for the video!

[@jasonvolkert1938]

GREAT VIDEO!!!!!!!!! THANKS!!!!!!!!!

[@steelpennyforge5152]

Nice little tool, I use an anvil bridge but this would be much less cumbersome. Nice work!

[@BlackBearForge]

Thanks

[@tinnyblacksmith3434]

Thanks for the video

[@marcs4738]

I kinda like that a whole bunch

[@lenblacksmith8559]

Love this and all of these informative video's can't wait to see about making scrolls. Oh John, finally made some slot jaw tongs, came out ok, one bit is thicker than the other, but they look ok. Gee punching the slot is hard, just like you said in the video, and yes I had to do a lot of filing too.

[@waskasoometalworks3329]

Hey John, I have done some research into sucker rods and they are generally aluminised. I always test a cutoff inthe fire before i work on it to see if it zinc fumes. The aluminum will melt off but it does make a small mess

[@BlackBearForge]

I have never seen coated sucker rod. I wonder if you're finding something from other than oil wells

[@waskasoometalworks3329]

@@BlackBearForge I got it direct from the company who supplies them to oilfield companies. they were moving to a bigger shop and contacted me about donating 700 feet to the museum as they didn't want to ship it. most of it is aluminized. It is still quite usable, just sometimes the coating melts off and makes a bubble on the piece. T4 tool steel, low quench alloy. nice thing about it is that it doesnt rust as fast. I live in Alberta

[@waskasoometalworks3329]

Aluminized for sour gas wells

[@jamesmcmillen4828]

Very handy tool...not just for scrolls. I can imagine using this for a lot of applications. I've been wondering...who all were the lucky winners of the give-away?

[@BlackBearForge]

Tony from Sweden won the hammer Jim Mitchell from the US won the spring die I haven't heard back from the other two winners with their shipping addresses.

[@jamesmcmillen4828]

The other two are loosing out! Hope they get back to you soon.

[@fireeyeforge8267]

Good stuff!

[@jackdawg4579]

Tough steel that sucker rod, you were wailing it hard for little movement, and the filing was taking bugger all off as well!

[@leonardmontgomery6302]

Thanks for another great video, wish I still lived in California so I could get some sucker rod, hard to come by in Virginia. The coupling could be 1045 or 4135, during the manufacturing process they are polished.

[@BlackBearForge]

Thanks for that information. I wasn't sure what it was. I'm not sure what it might be used for, but I will keep them around. I wsill also be sharing thew contact information for the gentleman that sent me this batch of sucker rod.

[@leonardmontgomery6302]

I spent 40 + years working in the "oil patch" have plenty of contacts will probably reach out and see I can get some sent to me. Here is something to try if you have any sucker rod with the coupling still attached. Lay it on your anvil and hit it with a hammer while rotating it where the pin is screwed into the coupling, DON'T hit it in the same place twice or you will egg shape it and never get it off. Once you have hit it several time clamp it in a vise and use the biggest pipe wrench you own and see it you can get it off. Good Luck

[@strongsadventures]

I was just curious why you didn’t use an angle grinder to slit each side of the coupling to remove it saving the threaded end of the sucker rod. Thanks for showing us another great tool.

[@BlackBearForge]

That would certainly be an option if you needed the extra length. For this tool I didn't really need any more than I had by just cutting the whole thing off.

[@justinjerman4340]

To get the box off all you have to do is set it on your anvil corner and hit it with your hammer while twisting the sucker rod to the left.

[@HudsonLobo-007]

Muito bom!

[@stuumblefingerz4351]

Hi John Was wondering if u use your propane forge for most of your work,also do u have any tips on how I could improve my welding technique using a propane forge.i have a 3 burner majestic forge an am having a hard time forge welding. I very much appreciate your informative vedios ,and down home approach teaching method.thanks

[@BlackBearForge]

Yes, I use the propane forge for most of my work including larger forge welds. Every forge is different and I am not familiar with the Majestic. The first thing I would do is talk to the manufacture. When I had trouble with mine because of the altitude they knew just what to do and sent out replacement burner jets. The fuel and air mix has to be just right and sometimes thats just a matter of trial and error.

[@caroljohnson8817]

What is the name of that large wide file you used? Beautiful Job!

[@BlackBearForge]

It is a farriers hoof rasp. A farrier wears out lots of these things and you can usually get the old ones pretty cheap or free. The ones that are no good for their work are perfect for hot rasping.

[@bhazen406]

People always use to ask me why blacksmiths let drop hot steel all the time apparently they took me seriously when i said you can catch it if your quick enough. Great entertainment although they wearnt to happy with me

[@lenblacksmith8559]

John what do you use to line your gas forge with. Just interested, researching the best way to do it that gives the best insulation and keeping the heat in and the most efficient way.

[@BlackBearForge]

It is lined with Kaowool that has a cement type covering over it to protect it. This forge was made by Chili Forge, so I'm not sure exactly what product they use.

[@lenblacksmith8559]

Ok thanks John, probably that ITC 100 or satanite.

[@robertkatekaru887]

Wouldn’t the horn accomplish the same than thing?

[@BlackBearForge]

It would come close, but the small curl at the tip of the scroll will contact the horn. Using the starter the tip can curl under the end of the starter. Old shops that made lots of scrolls would have several of these with various curves on the end

[@jimmycak1]

Interesting, but not practical, even for the beginner. The edge of the anvil is all that is needed to start scrolls. Thanks John for all of the great video's!

[@BlackBearForge]

I would certainly agree that a beginner should learn over the edge of the anvil. In 34 years this is the first time I have used a scroll starter. However the idea does not come as a crutch for the beginner but from some of the past masters of the craft like Francis Whitaker, Samuel Yellin and Otto Schmirler. I have seen them suggested in several old books on the subject, but those are just three names I am sure of.

[@BlackBearForge]

Someone shared this old video kzbin.info/www/bejne/jpzWnZVooct1Y9E a scroll starter may be seen in use at about 1 minute 6 seconds

[@jimmycak1]

It looks like it is flared like a fish tail so he could work off the side of it.

[@BlackBearForge]

That might be, I will go take another look

[@shifty3453]

Hmm yeah this is not something I will make but cool nonetheless.

[@BlackBearForge]

I would be very surprised if anyone made all of the stuff I do in the videos.

[@5x535]

3rd 1st

[@Wickedstickyflowers]

How about a band saw .... nevermind.... Sorry