Blacksmith Stand for 422 LB MONSTER Anvil

[@wranglerstar]

Thanks to EcoFlow for sponsoring this video! Head to my link here bit.ly/3Ll0VXP or amzn.to/3HqPJWn to check out the Delta Pro and the rest of EcoFlow’s incredible power products. #EcoFlow

[@tompeace5359]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/fHOYaZuho8itpKs If you're after 'authentic' then, apparently this is how toolmakers used to bed their anvils in Sheffield UK.

[@ragecharacter4743]

That's was some clean cuts. Keep up the good work good sir.

[@RichardCook]

looks like a good time to call Alec Steele he might have some ideas

[@fredeschen3783]

How thick is your slab? Concrete is bouncy. Ever try to pound a nail into a board on concrete?

[@seantarbell3088]

Wranglerstar I really enjoy watching your good old school woodworking. I thought you might like to check out the channel (Advoko MAKES) he makes some very interesting projects. It's nice to learn all the little techniques from good woodworkers.

[@5150Lane]

Leave it like it is now. You may want the extra surface to lay your hammer and other tools on it. Over time, you'll become accustomed to whatever you do with it. If you leave it large and end up not liking it, you can always go back and cut it smaller. If you initially cut it small, you can't add any size back.

[@alanj7306]

It really doesn’t look like there’s too much space to lay his tools on. It would probably need a longer length for that, or to move the anvil towards one side of the base. It’s probably better to build a small table for the tools that would be close by and easy to move around.

[@rogerringold616]

Yes...exactly. It will be revealed as it is used.

[@michaelmcternan4997]

I usually like the look of the metal bands around the stand, might help with splitting also. You heat the band up red hot then rivet it in place and as it cools it shrinks around the wood. But what a neat opportunity to take you time and make it look how you want it to. What a beautiful piece I hope you get a lifetime of enjoyment from it!

[@jamesmayer6370]

How about a diamond shapeallowing you in on all sides

[@alanj7306]

That’s a cool idea.

[@alanj7306]

But as he showed, the wood isn’t fully cured, so the bands might still come loose. Just a thought.

[@fredwatson2097]

If you hot band the steel band will shrink onto the wood and hold it tight.

[@alanj7306]

Fred, it just depends on how much the wood shrinks over time. I suppose you can always repeat the process.

[@jonnibegood1]

I'm a Blacksmith, if you're using a wood block for your anvil stand, about 3" all round should be sufficient, but you must brace the timber with steel straps...👌🏼

[@jonnibegood1]

@@ordinarypete you're welcome. Are you Blacksmithing...?

[@c6q3a24]

Once you've cut that down to ~17" your knees are going to be well above the top of the base - which will make it much easier to work around. A few ideas - cut both the front and back vertical, so you can easily work from each side, but keep the taper towards the horn and tail. - cut the base into an octagonal shape, so you to get your feet in closer while working (half way between round and square) - consider steel banding on the base to help prevent splitting - consider tool storage on the anvil base

[@NoyeBray13]

Cody, have you tried putting thick boards on the floor to raise you up to the desired "finished height" next to the stand & anvil mock up to see how you can move about at the finished height?

[@betodearmas111]

Best comment

[@699hazard]

I'd cut the corners off it so it is an octagon and then cut 5 inches off the height and then rout out a one inch recess for the anvil to sit into but do it so it won't rock. Don't forget to paint/seal the bottom of the wood block to stop the lime in the concrete from bleaching the wood.

[@vester681]

Lift the old man up ,put some chalk or charcoal on the bottom set it back on the base to get a imprint, then take it back off ,then you can see where to chisel out so it sets level. Great choice for the base. Also if you make the indentation deep enough it's never gonna move heavy as it is

[@alanj7306]

Damn Cody! You can’t keep us waiting over a week to drop a new video. I’d really like to see you remove the corners via an Isosceles triangle, which is 60-60-60 degrees. Measure in 1-1.5 inches (probably 1.5 inches for that huge stand) from each corner and trim it off. You can do the same for the upper corners. Something about that idea gives me the fizz. It would be perfect mathematically speaking and would not have any 90 degree corners to run into. That would look awesome and be so unique and original. I’d also like to see you recess the anvil into the wood about 1/4-1/2 inch. That would be so cool. It’s something you’re only going to do once and have forever, so you might as well make it special. I’d probably plane and sand the sides and just give the beeswax finish all around. That would be a beautiful piece and last forever.

[@davef1631]

The length of the videos is definitely not a problem for me, I like hearing your thought process behind your decisions. Not that you want to put in the time it would take but would rounding it off and making it round/oval give you the mix of stability, mass and accessibility?

[@ruggedindividual]

An excellent idea which would best facilitate banding of the base. But it would be a lot of time and work getting it to "sexiness" most craftsmen would come to desire along the way. Hahaha...

[@GoingBrokeHockey]

I love, envious actually, how you have all the time in world to work on these projects. I'm not envious with hatred, I'm envious as to set a goal for myself. I really do appreciate your channel and have learned a lot. There is a lost art of what it means to be a man, to lead, to provide and to protect. Keep it up Cody and may God continue to bless you and your wonderful family.

[@wranglerstar]

Thank you very much!

[@Penttihille]

If someone had said to me ten years ago that I would envy another mans anvil, I would have questioned his sanity.

[@griffenb]

Nice shout out for Buckin' Billy Ray. Happy to share my hometown with him

[@ricksamantha]

As an anvil user I would recommend steel strapping wrapping around top and middle painted black and trust me you will use all sides at different times. Remember to attach it to the base with chain or strapping. Chain will reduce the noise

[@ruggedindividual]

Very interesting information.

[@sadjst]

i love long videos. i've been following for years and we can't be as farther apart (no religion, urban rat, no guns, totally different politics, etc) but your videos keep me entertained and they keep me in a learning mood i really enjoy. so keep it up, i'll watch 15 videos of this series if you upload them. i only hope they are all 20+ mins :)

[@BattleChemist]

So good to see you posting, Cody... was concerned with the gap in videos. An excellent time in the shop with you, as always; it's a nice mental break from the Project Management life working from home. Bless you and the family.

[@coleglover3759]

To take the wobble out there are a few options first you could route the base out and throw some caulking it. You could make brackets to put pressure down on the base. The last and probably by last choice would be to put caulking on the base and put pressure on the anvil by chaining it down with downward pressure on the chain. Or leave it as is it is heavy enough to take a lot of it out when you true it up

[@donfinewood384]

So much time since that anvil was created, I wonder how many men hammers, created, sweat and toiled over that beast thru the years?? Now your next in line and hopefully this will be passed down to your son and his sons keeping it in the family for the generations to come. My dad passed 3-10-21 I acquired the anvil he had that was my grandfathers back in the day of horse drawn equip and it was used as a very important tool on the farm it now sits in my shop waiting to be mounted in a similar way to yours, and carry on its legacy as a very important piece of my families history. Carry on my friend, I watch all your videos and enjoy your values of life, family and appreciation of our great lives and values of the lives we live!! Stay safe.

[@connorbrennan5483]

I once watched a guy use a stump into the ground for his anvil. He made sure the top was level and siliconed it on real good. Then once the silicone set up he made large straps that were like square u-bolts and they clamped the anvil to the stump. It did not affect the performance of the anvil but it deadened the noise to make his videos much more enjoyable

[@TheSlugslinger]

i have seen several old anvil stand in the south of sweden where i live that is in the shape of a Hexagon, since for the once that used them it was easy to move around the anvil and it gave enuf mass to not be to springy when struck.

[@PickledSociety]

The vidoes absoluty do not go too long, love the videos and always have. Keep it up. Best wishes to you and your family.

[@stevertherver3887]

My Uncle just gave me my Grandfather's Anvil that he purchased from him in 1967 for $4.00. I want to put it on a nice piece of wood like you are doing. As far as the uneven bottom, I would determine where the high spot is and (with finesse) Hew out that spot just deep enough so the Anvil still makes contact everywhere. Also, I think burning your Wranglerstar Logo on the face of the stand would give you the Fizz!!

[@android61242]

They don't use glue they use lead. You make a cutout for the base of the anvil in the top of the wood block and put the base in molten lead.

[@taylorjohansen4955]

Keep the videos the length that you choose to! There are always critics! I sure appreciate the abcence of profanity, the education and sincere content. May God keep your family safe also.

[@chriskelly3678]

That was an impressive saw cut... I felt myself cringe on first 6 inches. Bravo sir.

[@chrlsraines]

I was in the tree industry for 20 yrs… that was very impressive saw work, Cody!

[@davidrichard5220]

My Grandfather and Uncles used an anvil at their farm. The base was an old tree trunk with metal bands at the top and bottom of the tree trunk. The top of the tree trunk was about 2 inches wider than the base of the anvil. Under the anvil, covering the top of the tree trunk was a thick layer of tar. The wings of the anvil had plenty of clearance from the tree trunk, so they were able to have clearance for bending rods and shaping metal.

[@NeyJ]

Great to hear a shoutout to uncle buckin!

[@leederdavid4782]

Great project. Have you considered having the block on its “side” so the end grain is not facing up? With end grain up, it might split and will burn easier. But if the end grains are up, they will also “crunch” down under the anvil as you work it, which might solve your “uneven base” problem. Fun one to take your time on! Great shout out to Buckin’ too!

[@Quentin687]

Just a few thoughts for fellow commenters: Chains are commonly placed around the base of anvils to reduce noise by dampening the vibrations. How well that works depends on who you ask. I just think it looks cool! Noise reduction and/or protection are important for blacksmiths, and I look forward to seeing how Cody addresses it. What chains do not do is fix wobbly anvils. As for fixing a wobbly anvil, I don't think sanding the stump to the shape of the anvil base is a good option as it's finicky with that 422 pound beast and wood will shrink and move over time anyway. I also don't think placing the anvil on sand is the trick because the sand would settle over time and the wobble would return. If a simple fix is wanted, the shim-and-fill method is most attractive to me as its the least gimmicky. I think the best and permanent option is to have a machinist flatten the base of the anvil, if he has access to that As for the shape of the wooden base, personal experience says to keep it relatively small (as opposed to wide) and also vertical to make it easy to move around. If you want to make it handsome, add a few iron straps around the wood for further sturdiness. Happy smithing!

[@user-mq9co4tl1w]

That is my dream to have a shop and a good blacksmith anvil...heat and pound steel...learning about steel and forging....man oh man...enjoy this Sir!

[@stoneymountainfarm2422]

I vote for keeping it fairly tight and flat sides. It may not look as pretty, but it will be easier on your feet and legs. As far as securing it, what about old fashioned pitch glue?

[@chrismallory8292]

I use a log cut at the correct length that is a few inches over the base radius. My anvil is only a 110 pounder though. I anchored with rail road spikes and have had it like that for 3 years now in my garage. The round log allows me to easily spin it to move it. It doesn’t feel tippy. I feel for a anvil that large, you will prolly want square or even octagon shape for assured stability. The horns should be clear for scroll work and bending.

[@PaG1989]

There are a number of options to level the base , 1 get the bottom and top of your anvil milled flat 😅😅 ( not a machine for the professional home owner ) 2 recess the anvil in the block of wood 1/2 an inch allowing for the difference when you recessed it , secure with 4 hand made nails

[@mr.davemaeen8136]

The only things I could think of was to either set up to 1/4 leather mat top of the pulpit to act as a sort of self leveling mat. Or using washers in between to make up the difference but maybe both of those ideas would just be cutting corners..

[@BigCroca]

could individually shim each corner so it had at least 4 points of contact

[@farfromtheedge3924]

These videos no matter what the subject may be are always well executed and educational. You are doing everyone a good deed. Thanks for the content.

[@TheDishDoc]

Man that is an amazing anvil! Your video length is not an issue for me. More time for you to drop nuggets of wisdom. Looking forward to seeing the finished stand.

[@nicholassoldan8281]

I hope you take this as a compliment, you are the Mr. Rogers of homesteading. I like the video length and the dialog about what you're thinking. My vote is to cut down to 17 inches and chamfer the edges. After some use you can improve, slow and steady wins the race.

[@mctrucks8825]

I have been watching your videos, ( as a subscriber ) for some years now and all your projects and videos not only have taught me alot, but have been so entertaining and enjoyable, thank you for continuing with KZbin and helping to keep me sane lol. Your amazing Cody and I'd love to see you hand finish the block as is. But no matter your choice I know it will look absolutely amazing.

[@samstoned]

Buckin billy-ray is a chainsaw master and is doing great things with his you tube channel it would be really cool to see you both work on something together one day

[@GaryForgingOn]

I help teach blacksmithing. Used to be they where just mechanically fastened to the stump. Old long spikes but they did not hold well. I used chains to lag screws on my old stump so I could tighten them as they gave over time. But now most people put silicone or liquid adhesives down, especially on a metal base instead of wood. If using on a metal stand you don't need anything but the adhesive. But you could do either metal across the feet with lags going angled back into the stump, front and back or you could do the chain with lag on each side. I like the metal bar on the anvil feet myself. Also you could lag bolt a plat to the top of the stump and use adhesives to the metal plate. Just some ideas and if you need more detail just let me know. You just do not want the anvil to ring.

[@markknister6272]

The Old Man is immense! Cut out a toe kick. Leave the whole block. You can use the wood around it it rest tools. Center it so you can use all sides. Use it at this height for a bit to see if it works for you. God’s speed. Blessings to you and your family. Love the videos. I understand you passion for the Old Man.

[@joshconner3170]

buckin billy ray is awesome glad you know of him, anyone who doesn't i urge you to check his channel out

[@Dragon_With_Matches]

I like the monument idea. You could cut the front and back straight and taper the sides. That way you can easily access the front and back but still have the monument effect. Can’t wait to see it finished!

[@janporkpie]

As a schoolboy in the UK (1964) the anvil in our forge shop was mounted on a steel base so the feet of the anvil were in a hollow of the base. It never moved about when we forged pokers and other trial pieces. Surely blocks of wood were only used by Norsemen who hadn't got enough steel to mount their anvils on. I recall a swage block stood to the side of the anvil, the master enjoyed telling we boys that the words we were using were those of Vikings and Norsemen.

[@MrSyvern1]

I very recently watched a very similar project. This was an old, experienced smith. He had tried all manners of methods to silence and level huge anvils, but he ended with what he used before, namely silicone.

[@peterunterrainer5652]

For the unstable situation of the anvil. Use a router and sink the base of the anvil into the wood a inch with air around it. Then pour molten lead into the base and put the anvil on the molten lead. That‘s how we made it.

[@treyhart6861]

It might be too soft, but the bees wax I use for a lot of things is the wax toilet rings (new ones, of course). They are super cheap and melt down easy, but at room temperature, it's still kind of soft, so not sure if sealing wood would work with it. You might need a harder wax like those candles. Just a little wax really helps with things like garden hose washers, etc.

[@ericcardinal4788]

Honestly, that is such a beautiful piece of pine. It has that wonderful rose hue to it that I often find in cherry here in Indiana. I wouldn't change a thing about it. Work the timber by hand, and use banding around it like you would with making a whiskey barrel.

[@bandaid007jl]

I've been waiting for this video since you announced you were getting the anvil, the video could have been even longer imo. I'm no homeowner or professional what's so ever but man I am excited to see where this project takes you. can't wait to see the next update!

[@isomer13]

Getting your anvil set right depends on a lot of factors. Mine is a black oak stump - still attached to the roots - underneath an awning. It's been there for over 20 yrs now. However, it took the first couple years before I finally got it set(height, etc) to my ideal and what works for me. Prior to that. I went through 3 different bases. Take your time. Good series.

[@johnme7049]

That is a beauty! Sadly I have no advice to offer, I have no experience with anvils or the art of smithing. But I applaud you and the Old Man. God Bless you Cody, long may your anvil ring.

[@andydsimmons]

Nothing wrong with sitting amd staring at it. I think you do great work and appreciate you sharing it.

[@willyoung4512]

As I said on the last video.... BEWARE THE TOP HEAVY. It takes a lot less effort to tip it than you'd think. I dumped a 3'x4', 1600 lbs fab table without breaking a sweat.... although I did break the concrete and the shop wall.

[@mattshaffer5935]

I can’t speak for lack of smithing experience but I wouldn’t taper the base. Got to stay close to the work. Thanks for the upload I really enjoy the LP sir! Also been enjoying your music choices a lot. Thanks as always!

[@cranerigging3604]

Look's good and glad you got the anvil mounted ! I would go with 22:20 and leave it like it is .

[@rlmartinmanor]

Use your chainsaw and scribe the top of the log to make the anvil surface sit level and not rock and tip from corner to corner. My anvil base came from a sycamore tree that our childhood treehouse was in and when it was cut down 45 years ago a slab was saved for the anvil. I made my anvil base very slightly concave so it sits perfectly flat on the concrete floor no matter where in my shop I sit it. No concrete floor is perfectly flat and that makes it sit correct and not be wobbly on the concrete. I used 1" steel straps on four corners of the anvil and used lags to bolt it down. They give it a nice industrial look as well.

[@mdlipps]

I would keep all 4 sides straight up and down. Also bring it in close to the base of the anvil and leave yourself about 3 inches all the way around. Looks great and you're going to have so much fun making stuff.

[@britishpatriot2276]

Before I watch the video.. I waited so long for this next video. Never have I found myself waiting in anticipation then I do for wranglestar videos. Best KZbinr on the planet by far! Edit. I prefer the longer videos but considering the effort put into your content. Il always watch!

[@julietbravo5546]

I used caulk underneath the anvil and base. Also you need to made a jig to screw the anvil to the wood base and add chains to the anvil to dampen the ring. Side note: you may also want to bolt your base to the concrete. You need these things to have a working anvil that doesn’t move or make a lot of noise.

[@gabrieleolivieri2852]

I saw a lot of anvil stand where the anvil was secured with big and heavy metal chains around the base (like counter weights of some sort) looping around the "nek" (skinner part) of the anvil and bolted down to the base. I think that this kind of system avoids the movemnt during hard pounding. I'm not an expert, but here in Europe is common

[@RichardMiller-tq6ut]

That chain is to deaden the ring

[@feyrband]

@@RichardMiller-tq6ut can still serve both purposes, no?

[@RichardMiller-tq6ut]

@@feyrband I've never seen a chain on one that is tightened to hold it down. I think the tension would hinder the sound deadening properties. Not sure

[@jhart32589]

Dish the bottom of the stand so it won’t rock on any surface and router out the shape of the base of the anvil in the top and then set it on a bed of silicone. It’ll fill the imperfections in the base and tone done the ring a touch.

[@henryvandentop4834]

Black Bear Forge has an excellent video about securing your anvil to its base. He used silicone caulking and two metal straps to fasten it down tight. That will also quiet down the anvil to a certain extent and help with the wobble. I have used this method and enjoy my quiet stable anvil when I forge.

[@urbanlumberjack]

As huge as the anvil is, it looks really good on that log and in the shop. Amazing piece of history there

[@devonbabcock1013]

For bedding your anvil to the block, consider epoxy grout that is used for bedding industrial rotating equipment. They’re solving the same problem that you have here, just iron to concrete instead of iron to wood.

[@mkzenthusiasts]

Cody, I'm a member now! I have gotten way more free entertainment and other things than the small fee. Thank You Cody

[@wranglerstar]

Welcome to the family Christopher

[@JimFinlayson]

Congrats on being a professional homeowner with a mini excavator. Slinging it without leaving the seat eliminated any opportunity for a snarky comment. Great video, your pride and passion for this effort is inspiring. 👍👍👍

[@timjansens3514]

Great video and I enjoyed watching the Ecoflow sponsored portion instead of a nonsense KZbin ad. I was thinking about buying a Goal Zero initially, but these videos are winning me over to Ecoflow. Great cuts too! I was worried about the tip of your saw getting the floor jack at the end, but I think it was just the angle of the shot.

[@Cheez1979]

This is the second channel where the dude installed an anvil. I think I need one of these. It’s a conversation piece!

[@samuelhigh3572]

Looks like a great start! I can't wait to see the finished product! Then I'll make one for my Grandpas Anvil.

[@drewmoney4411]

We get what we get. All good and excited for you sir. My vote, carving of some east coast hats or something. Would probably need a smaller bar.

[@ruggedindividual]

Intriguing content, as usual. Personally, I'd taper the base inward, to provide a toe kick, and center the Old Man, to provide maximum work space atop the pulpit, and perfect weight balance. And regarding the "wobble", I'd place a thin sheet of very hard rubber between the anvil and the stand, secured by boat tar etc. I look forward to hearing the opinions of others, as well as the final decision.

[@zabik99]

I'd love to have an anvil, and a forge. This anvil setup is so amazing either way. You'll figure out how to get it perfect for you.

[@TheSnakeman3]

If you wouldn’t take immense pride in owning a piece like that, then there’s got to be something wrong. What a impressive tool.

[@greggmouritzen7478]

I'm thinking, if you set that whole set up on a pallet(large enough to have a deck around the anvil to walk/stand), you'll have a sturdy planform, to be able to place/ move the anvil to where ever you want, for various projects. I think you might want to focus the anvil over the heartwood, since that is the sturdiest part of the log. Now if that is off center, then you can offset the anvil. Like you said, you have to work with the wood. Let it tell you want to do.

[@THANATOSIXU]

you could set the anvil into the base if you make an anvil shaped pocket and then used lexel or clear sealant. its good because that brand is flexible and would secure it well enough down to help dampen the vibration. I would also suggest hot banding the base to make it so the base is less likely to split due to shrinkage and shifts in temperature and humidity.

[@rickc4317]

I know if it were mine, I would not taper the base. I'd want as much room around the anvil base for a shelf as is comfortable to work on the anvil. What a gorgeous base. Well done, sir.

[@jeepster1016]

I could feel you feeling the fizz when you propped up on that stool. Very powerful

[@shooterheming7072]

Cody, have you considered shaping it so that looking down at the face its in somewhat of a bow tie shape? Bringing in the edges in the middle like that on both sides will help with being able to get right up on it. Either way I'm excited for this project!

[@stephenweston2432]

Speaking from experience keep the base small not much wider than the foot of the anvil you will want to work from both sides especially when using the horn. Also seating on pitch, tar or lead works well heat it up let it mold to the base and the foot it will stop the wobble and hold it firm all in one.

[@thedoublearmmasterbator4228]

You could lay a little burlap on top of it like table cloth to get the wobble out or cut an outline into the top of the wood to set the bottom base of the anvil in

[@hernerweisenberg7052]

I think chopping off the edges to make the base octagonal would look nice. Also i would center the anvil on the base so you have equal access to all sides. Not having used it yet and not having that much blacksmithing experience (me neither :)), you might not know yet what side of it you will prefer working on.

[@josephzunker6761]

My 2 cents. Use it and see what you like can always trim it more any time you need to make a video. Thanks for all you do.

[@jonw3982]

I order my anvil back in 2019, got a gas forge last year but not a chance to use it bc winter came and not going to use it in the garage attached to my house. Cant wait for it to finally warm up so I can step outside and get started. Only little forging Ive got to do were a couple really small projects with a propane torch as heat. But that anvil, man Im jealous.

[@mcapo1473]

please keep the videos as long as they are! great length and great subjects and knowledge

[@jlooseround]

I agree with other comments about metal bands. I think it would look better AND keep any splits from forming over time. Its just an opinion

[@chrlsraines]

Oh yes, Cody, a 25-30 min instructional video is like about the perfect length in my opinion. However I also don’t have an issue watching an hour long video on subjects I am very interested in so… yeah 25-30 mins is fine!

[@michaelboer-panak4107]

21:04 the hop of that cat man

[@seandonaghy9224]

I do not have experience in blacksmithing or woodworking but this is my thoughts template the base and recess it so it's a tight and at the height that you want to work on you're working height maybe use a little bit of sand the cavity to level anvil the and then from front to back a slight quarter moon shape carved out section so you can work as close as you want or as far back as you need

[@VnazT]

Another great video, Cody! Please remember my family in Ukraine when you pray. Peace, Brother.

[@ja1creative]

45 degrees the vertical corners (3-inch chamfer on all four corners), turning the square into an octagon. Then put a 1-inch deep toe kick about 3 inches high. I have no experience, but that thought came to me. I might do it that way if I ever started blacksmithing.

[@zacheboy2001]

I’ve seen a lot of blacksmiths put a layer of silicone on the bottom of the anvil which will stabilize the wobble and also drown down the ring of hammer on anvil.

[@allopez9791]

I think it may be nice to even have a little toe relief around the bottom. Also maybe if you have and extra chunk of the fir you could make a mock stand and see how you like it before cutting the perfect piece! Love the series so far!

[@northernironforge]

Best way to keep them solid and rock free and also deaden the sound is to place the anvil on top of a bed of silicone. Then use which ever mounting way you decide on.

[@CornishJohn]

No no no I love the longer videos, not every time but when they're justified. A shower pace isn't optimal for your algorithm stats but fits the channel ethos so well.

[@yellowknife89]

Chain it down, Its the best thing you can do. It takes the ping out of it when you hit. My grandpa who is 96 years old is a blacksmith and he mentioned you should chain it down if you find it moves or has a high pitch noise when you use it.

[@shinaiandbogu]

By just watching you move and talk, I can tell you have fizz allover you with this stand.... :) Just to clarify... I noticed this 3 minutes into your video (not when you said you had the fizz, 19 minutes into it). This reminded me of some pieces you did years ago when you first started your endeavor here. It is good to see.

[@AndrexT]

I like the tapered monument idea. For the base, could you cut a kick strip in the bottom on both sides, leave 4" of solid wood on the ends? For the rocking top, could you set it into molten lead or hot glue?

[@cameronmcpeak5183]

Id mark out the anvil foot and taper out in 2 directions from there. 1st direction being under the horn and heel of the anvil as you wont stand there anyway. And secondly a 2-4” wide taper going out to either side. Im thinking a “+” shaped base so theres foot room. I always stand perpendicular to the length of my anvil when forging .

[@BadlydrawnBen]

As a man about the same age . There are two fine young men on this very platform . Will skelter and Alec Steele an Englishman and an American brother's in Christ . They have dedicated there young lives to this art . I am sure they would love to offer good advice

[@UKCG_2]

I’d skip the tapers and add 2-3 steel band clamps around the circumference to ensure it doesn’t crack/split under the load of your thunderous strikes! 😉

[@blakey666]

I always enjoy the longer videos, and I always enjoy your content Cody, can't wait to see what you forge!

[@ctrip34]

I like the monument style with some room on top to set down tools. If possible I'd maybe put on some heavy duty castors with brakes. So your feet don't run into it like you were talkin about. Then again I'm not sure how safe that is putting ur toes under all that weight but I'm sure it can be done if you put some blocks or something on the bottom. And then I'd take ur time chiseling something into the sides of the base & then take a torch to it to give it that burnt look & itll darken the grain. Anywho idk, just some thoughts. Really cool project. I love stuff like this.