BMW Coolant Temp Sensor and Throttle Position Sensor Removal, Installation, Adjustment E28 E30 M30

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In this video I continue diagnosing a surging idle in my 1984 533i. The early 533i, 633csi and 733i have a separate idle control module or ICM located in the glove box above the ECU (engine control unit). These commonly fail or burn out causing irregular idle and running conditions when they can no longer send proper signal to the idle control valve. #e28 #e30 #bmwclassic
The idle control valves also commonly fail or get dirty in these cars, requiring cleaning or replacement. In this video I show you the removal and installation of a fuel injection control unit to repair the surging idle once and for all. As it turns out, the circuit board on the original module was burnt and as a result not sending enough voltage to the idle valve.
The early cars share the 13411286134 Programa idle module and the 13411709898 idle control valve. These are also found on the 528e, 325e and 325es ETA models.
See part 1 here: • How to Fix BMW E28 533...
See part 2 here: • BMW e28 Surging Idle P...
In this third video, I continue attempting to resolve the high idle in my 533i. I install a coolant temp sensor with two prongs, an oddity of the early motronic fuel injected BMW's of the early to mid 1980's.
In this video I replace the (yellow/brown) two prong coolant temp switch part number 12631279716 which is NLA with the updated violet sensor part number 12631279719. This made no change in warm idle.
I also purchased a Facet brand throttle position sensor/switch (made in Italy) and installed and adjusted that. Unfortunately, this made no change in idle speed. The part number is 13631273265. This video demonstrates the removal and installation of the throttle switch and the adjustment of the throttle switch with the throttle plate. Very easy to do on the m30 engine.
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[@philiplee7604]

Hi Rich, Your persistence will be rewarded through this process of elimination.. The parts you have replaced to this stage of the diagnosis have still been a worthwhile ‘ investment in preventative maintenance ‘... I love this BMW model, and I must say, the engine bay looks absolutely pristine, an absolute credit to your attention to detail. Cheers Philip

[@cityofoaks]

We had an idle issue with our '87 325ic years ago - it ended up being the DME Control Unit (the idle portion was bad).

[@damongordon5866]

Excellent job... I’m still having erratic idle so looks like a smoke test in my future... I replaced everything you replaced... 1982 BMW 633csi

[@BIMMERZEITT]

Thanks. Still haven’t resolved mine. Will continue looking this Summer.

[@philiplee7604]

Hi again Rich, Forgot to leave a ‘ thumbs up ‘ when I left my comment the other day ... well, I’ve given it now!

[@valerioemidio]

Have you checked the VAF (volume air flow)? It's a flap attached to a potentiometer and sometimes that potentiometer is faulty. It can appear out of nowhere. If you can, check it with a known good VAF.

[@blakelauterbach4560]

I had an e28 with an incessantly high idle, I replaced the ICV and it fixed it. 1985 528e

[@jmdfamily1653]

Have you checked the order coolant temperature sensors there is 1 sensor for the cold start and there’s a another for the ECU, so check them for resistance in cold water then hat water, and see the difference. Any way hop this helps and all the best whit the channel.

[@thrty8street]

Please make more videos like this

[@BIMMERZEITT]

thanks bud

[@BIMMERZEITT]

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[@o.h.w.6638]

I'll try adjusting the Throttle Position Sensor on mine. Fuel is leaking from the throttle body onto it and the sensor wires too so I have little confidence they even work at this point. These idle issues are getting REALLY OLD after testing/replacing/adjusting 6+ components and still no fix. 🧐 Wildly annoying... damn car.

[@1984AP]

The violet one I put on in 2004, read 0 celcius. Caused black smoke from exhaust, car shut-off while driving etc. It would not start at under 32F. Cold start above this ambient temp. resulted in cold-start idle (900 rpm) but never lowered to 650-700 rpm once engine temp. was warmer. Clearly was running in cold-start (richer) mode all the time due to the purple sensor/switch - the later 535i used a different version. Told Bav. Auto it had to be a yellow one. They found one. Installed it, all was well.

[@1984AP]

The surging in my 533i was caused by the Idle Control Unit and Valve - it was advised both be replaced at the same time. The idle speed can be adjusted via the valve - but it's not always advisable.

[@BretM]

Always enjoy videos on this car! Do you have a diagnostic scanner that can talk to it? I've been thinking about getting one as much as I fiddle with these things.

[@BIMMERZEITT]

Bret Morgan thanks Bret. I don’t have one because to my knowledge, there are no codes to read on early cars as they don’t store them. I believe the oil and service interval light tool can be reset from that port. The diagnostic end of things basically involves probing communication and readings in a digital multimeter between that port shown in the video and the ecu for continuity etc.

[@BretM]

@@BIMMERZEITT How unfortunate! Modern cars have spoiled me.

[@BIMMERZEITT]

Bret Morgan definitely! Modern cars are soo much easier

[@jeanjcaron]

Very informative video. Well done. I have a 325 i- convertible, 1991. Would it have the same configuration? If you don’t know, no worries. But I’m thinking it does. Cheer.

[@BIMMERZEITT]

Thanks Jean. Your 91 325i (e30) has some differences, one is that it has the later motronic fuel injection which is greatly improved over the version in this e28. You have coolant temp sensors in the housing which are cheap and easy to change. The throttle position switch on the m20 throttle body I recall is on the underside of the body, not the side, so it is a little more difficult to change out - but similar in price. The basic principles of diagnosing and their functions is essentially the same in your car (baby six cylinder m20) as my car (big six cylinder m30). Cheers.

[@jeanjcaron]

BIMMER ZEIT thanks so much. I’ll Check and mau write again to confirm . Cheers!

[@MRXCHRISS]

Was there a washer on the coolant temperature sensor to keep it from leaking?

[@BIMMERZEITT]

yeah I re-used the old one for the time being, I assumed the new one would come with a washer, I was wrong

[@johnhannah8079]

Hey ! How is the functionality of the Facet TPS? I wasn't sure if I should pick one of those up or a rebuilt Bosch or just spend the 130$ on the bosch

[@BIMMERZEITT]

It works fine. No need to spend too much on that part in my opinion. Unless you’re daily driving many miles a year! This car sees maybe 2-400 miles a year.

[@latexsolarbeef4990]

..sure wish I knew what sweet spot meant..

[@Dicecuta]

Hey Rich, how are you? This has nothing to do with this video. I just have a question. I need a secondary catalytic converter for my 2004 BMW X5 3.0i and dealer prices $1210 per cat. Is there any way I can get a cat half that price and 3/4 of the result. Example; performance, emissions pass. Any suggestions/tips are much appreciated. John

[@BIMMERZEITT]

John Bling I’m doing well, thanks John. Thanks for the question. I would recommend finding a good used lower mileage cat converter from a parts car. Check xoutpost, bimmerforums, and eBay and Facebook marketplace. Installing a used one may not be legal for a repair shop to do due to emissions laws depends on your state. But some shops/areas may be able to. Of course you can always DIY 😎

[@Dicecuta]

@@BIMMERZEITT thanks and God bless 🙏

[@asmircar1]

Test fuel pump or injectors... There has to be fuel problem somewhere....

[@thrty8street]

So did you ever fix this problem? Also, I was under the impression that the purple unit you used is a sender, not a switch as the original yellow part was.

[@BIMMERZEITT]

The original part is NLA. Yes, I resolved the idle issue by replacing the original plastic body idle control valve with a metal one from the 325e/528e. The plastic one passed the tests, but somehow was still faulty. I’d recommend to anyone with an early car to get rid of the plastic ICV and install a metal one.

[@thrty8street]

@@BIMMERZEITT thanks! I will try this out on my 533i!

[@frostbite1991]

Hey Rich, you ever resolve this issue? Mind updating the forum post with any new information you may have discovered? Thanks.

[@BIMMERZEITT]

Unfortunately I have not figured it out yet. Been in storage since last October.

[@frostbite1991]

@@BIMMERZEITT ah bummer. Having similar issues with my 85 325e. Found I have 2 bad capacitors, so the ICM wasn't able to supply enough amperage to close the ICV. IDK if my problem will be fixed with new ones, but I'll find out when they come in sometime next week.

[@BIMMERZEITT]

@@frostbite1991 forgive my ignorance - capacitors where? Keep me updated! Will dig into this issue again soon in spring.

[@frostbite1991]

@@BIMMERZEITT In the ICM, direct inline with pins 1 and 5. I'll let you know when I get my new ones installed if I have any other issues.

[@frostbite1991]

@@BIMMERZEITT well I installed the new caps and it made zero difference. Adjusting the AFM helped a bit but it still surges, just takes longer to get to that point. As it is now, the M20 isn't long for this engine bay. I still want to keep the setup so it can idle when cold finally, but i'll be installing a 1/2" 12v solenoid in the hose coming from the ICV, whos ground goes through the coolant temp switch. Once coolant hits 113F degree's, that solenoid will shut closed and the car will idle normal, like it did when the delete kit was installed. I've thrown too much money into this old tired engine to justify buying a rebuilt ICM when, as was the case with literally every other sensor I've bought, it will probably do nothing to fix the issue. I'm done dinking around with it, gas prices suck, and my jeep gets 11mpg. Just wanna drive the dang thing again lol. If I happen to stumble upon any other reasons as to why it refuses to supply proper voltage to the ICV when at operating temp, I'll let you know.

[@VintageAtl]

Your idle control valve . Flat head screwdriver

[@b4runner25]

Have you had any luck with this? I have a 1984 733I that I have been having the exact same issue. Changed the module, coolant temp sensor, checked the IAC, changed all the rubber lines for it and still can't figure it out. I read something about a resistor added to the harness for the Coolant temp sensor but can't find anything else, like the size it should be. I hope you are having more luck than I am. Getting so frustrated i am ready to pull the engine out and do a LS swap in it lol

[@BIMMERZEITT]

Hey Bryan, thanks for the message. Sadly I have not. The car has been stored in my garage all Summer, I only drove it once so far. My next step was to replace the idle valve itself, probably another waste of $300! I'm not sure what the root cause of this issue is. I'm also at a loss of what to do next. This kind of shop diagnostic time gets expensive, and usually results in a big repair bill with no resolution.

[@b4runner25]

@@BIMMERZEITT I don't even know where to get a new Idle control valve. I can't seem to find any. Not sure if you have a source on some

[@b4runner25]

@@BIMMERZEITT its so frustrating. an Engine swap is looking really good right about now

[@b4runner25]

@@BIMMERZEITT BMW Technical Service Bulletin # 13 07 86 Install an external resistor in the wire for the temperature sensor that feeds the Motronics (should be the one with the light grey connector) Resistor type is 270 ohm, 1/2 watt, "Gold Band" metal film resistor for Motronics Control Units with a Bosch code date of 342 or higher (production date after 9/83) and for Motronics 341 and lower (9/81-9/83 production dates), it is a 560 ohm, 1/2 watt "Gold Band" metal film resistor .

[@ivanovichmoreno5150]

useless video amigo