BMW E39 V8 M62 Valve Cover Gasket Replacement

[@SebastianSibaja]

If the oil falls into the spark plug hole nothing should happen. The tip of the spark plug goes straight into the combustion chamber, there's oil in there and the engine burns it or drains it if there's more oil than needed. Please correct me if am wrong. Great video buddy!

[@mariowood-martinez2746]

Sebastian Sibaja pretty accurate lol it happened to mines and it smoked as if the pcv valve was stuck for like 5 min and the smoke went away.

[@bluedemond5332]

there all ways oil in the cylender that is how the piston head comes up and down the cylinder the pistone rings have a milimetric gap that allows to have a film of oil in the cylinder

[@jerryscholder462]

You are correct.

[@watcheseverythingguy1379]

Mario Wood - Martinez yea I think I have that going on with mine now lol thanks you might have helped me 😂🙏🏽

[@KremitDeFrog]

Yea, I immediately paused the video at that point to check the comments cause oil isn't foreign debris that's going to cause mechanical failure.. at most the engine might burp..

[@Emily1963eh]

That white box is for electrical stuff. You DO NOT, I repeat DO NOT have to remove the fuel injector clips. A gentle tug (not much force required) will unplug the box from the injectors. A quick tip, it is far easier to move the left box around with the oil level sensor plug undone, gives a lot more slack. The sealant is to go onto the half moons at the rear and where the gasket faces meet at the front of the cover. Place a small bead and then flatten with a plastic bag over your finger so that it becomes a smear. Make sure when you place the cover back on with the gasket that the gasket does not fall out of the cover, this is the most frustrating part of the job. It helps having two people on each end of the cover to stop this. For those of you wishing to spend a little more time but save a lot of pain, It is FAR EASIER to remove the intake manifold to do the valve cover gaskets. Reason being that there is very little space to place the cover back on without issues and this also gives the opportunity to replace the gaskets for the manifold as well as the throttle body gasket and oil valve at the rear. It is also an opportunity to replace fuel injector seals as this is how I had vac leaks and bad idle. As Sebastian has said, your engine will not blow up from a little oil, it will burn through the exhaust system.

[@Cepera540]

Just did mine few months back. Fairly easy job. Also good time to get them powered coated. And blue mechanics paper towels should suck all the oil out of spark plugs if you leave it over night.

[@leborde]

What about the tightening sequences, stages and torques specs? It's essential and should be mentioned.

[@1040heart]

That's literally why I'm watching the video it's needed for the job as soon as I read this I paused the video made this comment and am now leaving, thank you for this public service

[@snugdan]

The "6mm" nuts on the coils are 10mm. In fact, all your 6mm nuts are probably 10mm. Check, did someone draw a 6 on your 10mm socket?

[@alexkovacs8790]

Dan's Channel M6 Bolt or nut, my friend, those have a 10mm head.. I guess that's what he meant

[@tam1381]

Its a 6mm thread with a 10mm head on the bolt.

[@jdmcarboy64]

He also kept calling right and left incorrectly 🤦🏻‍♂️

[@maxforce]

On a side note if you are like me and ran out to do this job before watching the whole video and pulled the sparkplugs allowing the oil to go into the cylinders all is not lost. pour some gasoline into the cylinder let it sit. when you have completed your valve cover job before reassembling the coils turn the key as if you were trying to start the car. as it was explained to me it will cycle the cylinders and clean them out. i turned the key twice, then reconnected the coils held my breath and started the car.......perfection. if any actual mechanic knows what i am talking about please comment on if the method i described above is ok or has any downsides. thank you.

[@asfbi]

the starter isnt engaged so the engine isnt turning so not sure who told you that lol

[@MrRoyalblunts]

doing mine tonight. along with valley pan and oil separator. car leaks like a sieve, gunna have too look up how to clean my parking spot too lol.

[@MohanedAlshareef]

Just a correction, all the bolts around the valve cover are 10mm NOT 6mm. Great video buddy.

[@larryjohnson8168]

The gasket has to be perfect for it not to leak

[@aleycat100]

yes the clip goes in first however you can pull the fuel rail with the harness box attached to it then tie it upwards if your not comfortable removing the clips

[@igottaspeak]

Those clips are hard to see and how do they come out; what did you use to get them out What helps the weekend DIY'S's is to show us how to get to the difficult parts. We know how to use a wench.

[@townman1]

Great Video , very helpful , I need to do my 1998 740i this weekend . This video convinced me to do it myself.

[@DaytonCarCare]

Sometimes it works to re-torque the valve cover nuts if you have a slight seep. Has worked for me on many cars. Of course I eventually replace the gasket at a later time.

[@gvs1173]

DaytonCarCare Hi Dayton car care, am wondering how to "retorque" since the nuts have caps on them and the bolts a spaced a bit away from the bottom of the bolt a protuberance that does not allow you to tighten to tight without causing damage?

[@gvs1173]

DaytonCarCare P.S. great catch on the 10mm nuts

[@DaytonCarCare]

G VS You can turn them slightly, maybe 1/8th turn. They don't require much torque, I think it's in inch lbs not ft-lbs... I forget the exact spec. The "nut" fits somewhat like a bolt. And there is a washer that puts pressure on another rubber washer underneath. Sometimes you get lucky by re-snugging the nuts to eliminate some seeps from the old gasket. Remember just check if it's snug and don't put excessive torque that will strip the threads. If you're not sure just remove one nut and examine it. You'll understand better by looking at one.

[@McxCZ]

By the way it seems you are missing your bottom engine cover, because if I dropped the cover of the bolt like that, It would be lost in abyss forever.

[@Nthstar]

@Milan Čihák Those bottom covers are annoying and best to remove them anyway. I've been driving for 25 years and remove those bottom covers. They don't do anything.

[@McxCZ]

Not really sure but the ignition coil bolts are 10mm.

[@joerivelin7837]

A few comments about the oil not causing engine damage on here. While the oil won’t damage the engine, it’s good practice to keep the area clean whilst working there. On an old car like that, anyone could have worked there before, dropped a screw or nut down there and left it behind. You could even drop a hard foreign object down there yourself when you remove the cover. Things like that certainly can cause serious damage. Fair play to the lad for having a go at his own car maintenance but I hope he checked out torque settings and sequences before he put it back together!

[@rafaelcadena44]

The box you were asking about holds the control module for your transmission.

[@koichiyasutani9732]

Also contains wiper relay switches.

[@IntenseFitness2]

I just did that on my BMW 530I... lots of work but I got it done. THX

[@confusedwhatme]

thanks for the heads up these vids are vary helpful compared to a manual. i am trying to figure out how the oil is in the cylinders only its not leaking out the engine and down the block but when i look up oil in the spark plug wells this is all i get valve cover gaskets it seems off

[@roberturkevich3233]

if you disconnect motor mount from right side jack motor up a few inches you can get away without touching injector wires

[@GrzegorzDurda]

3:08 That's the ECU housing.

[@aleycat100]

thank white tank is the cover for your dme tme engine trans extra fuse block and abs wiring basically the engine and trans computers.

[@ilyagofman3256]

it's borderline impossible to pull the right cover off without removing the electrical box. I would recommend prying the electrical box cover off and moving coil plugs out of the way. Also, gluing the new gasket onto the cover with some liquid gasket really helps with reassembly.

[@derekjones6538]

those clips are insane!!!

[@Z0neDrift]

+Derek Jones If you mean the injector clips, you dont need to remove them. Simply remove the two bolts, coil plugs, and just tug it off.

[@ahmetsela942]

+Derek Jones worst part of the job removing those goddamn clips lmao, i was thinking of not even putting them back on since your screw it down anyway

[@derekjones6538]

+z0ne276 if you want to break the injectors

[@Z0neDrift]

Derek Jones You wont if you pull straight.

[@derekjones6538]

+Ahmet Sela i was doing valve cover on a 03 range rover and that shit was ridiculous thought about only putting a couple back on but didnt

[@tfgdj94694]

main reason for doing these gaskets other than to stop a little visible leak is that the HT ends of the coils will disintegrate causing misfiring. lol oil down the cylinders bad

[@AnthonyMichael504]

How did you get the small rubber gaskets off of the long screws on the outer place of the cover? The 3 long bolts have rubber gaskets - I cannot figure out how to get them off to replace

[@BGODMUSIC]

I removed my plugs w/o drying the oil and my 740 is fine.

[@GrzegorzDurda]

Magnesium Valve covers. Anyone figure out how to make paint stick to them? BMW couldn't. I did mine twice to no avail. Maybe plastidip will hold? Thinking of leaving them in Bare metal on next gasket change.

[@E39Source]

They would need to be powered coated, maybe? The magnesium off-gasses with heat cycles, which is why conventional paint won't stick to them. Plasti-dip would melt off the first day.

[@GrzegorzDurda]

I generally thought plasti dip it can stand up to temps at 200 Degrees with no problems. But never mind. If the Magnesium Outgasses then it's hopeless lol. Ill just leave them in the native battleship grey.

[@MRXCHRISS]

Did you clean the whole underside of the valve cover or just the groove where the gasket goes in? If you did clean the inside of the valve cover, what did you use? Looks really clean.

[@E39Source]

Cleaning would be optional, but recommended. Any light detergent would be fine, Simple Green, or Brake Clean.

[@StivensGameZone]

2 questions On how much time ypu change this thing..i mean you put new now..and next change is? Next year. 2 years later how normally last? 2. What gonna happend if i dont have sealant to put on.?is that fine too?

[@sevenkruwer]

Hi, great tutorial! I just did mine based on your video. Question. After I put everything back, I ended up with 8 nuts/bolts (10mm) extra.. (The female one)... I did check again and again, but could not figure it out... Any idea? Any help is really appreciate it.. Thanks

[@mubacuba]

Hey, before you changed the gasket did you experience rough idle when you first start the car up? Mine has rough idle and when the car is cold and after it warms up it idle's normal. Thinking that the engine burns off all the oil in the spark plug well and then it idles normal.

[@E39Source]

A bad gasket shouldn't cause a rough idle.... but maybe that could? Pull a plug after the car has been sitting and check it out. Otherwise replace plugs and cam sensors.

[@miloszkraszewski622]

I have the same issue. I'm replacing the plugs/oil too I don't get enough miss for it to throw a code but it irks me. Will have an update soon.

[@gorrington007]

My car is getting a rough idle on startup, sometimes accompanied by a flashing check engine light for a few seconds.. I know my valve cover gaskets are shot, I guess replacing the gaskets will replace both problems.?

[@jdmcarboy64]

Oil in the cylinder won’t cause that much engine damage, it’s combustible under high temp. It’s water you don’t want in the cylinder walls. Ever heard of blow by from worn valves? That’s oil making its way into the combustion chamber aka cylinder wall.

[@bjenks2]

e39Source did you have any misfires? I have a very small amount of oil in my 740il spark plug area and my car misfires. Sometimes is suttle some times it bad but it always fixes itself. The only codes I have are for one of the o2 sensors precat and the 2 rear ones.

[@E39Source]

Oil in the plugs could cause misfires, if the plug gets fouled. I would recommend replacing your valve cover gaskets, all the spark plugs, and all of the oxygen sensors.

[@bjenks2]

Ok, I've replaced the plugs 2 times looking for the problem. It has Bosch platinum+4's then I got ngk v powers and now it has fusion iridium platinum +4's. It still misfires after every plug change. Anything else it could be? I mean sometimes it's a slight bump and sometimes the whole car shakes. I'm about to change my coils. Do these get weak? I have the Bremi's. Car has 134,000 miles. Thanks for your help and response

[@E39Source]

Your problem definitely isn't the plugs then. It could be a bad coil (is it a particular cylinder that is misfiring, or multiple/all cylinders?) Could can be damaged by oil in the spark plug holes or just age and miles. Get those O2 sensors replaced before you try anything else.

[@bjenks2]

Ok, I've replaced them before as well, they were bosch. But they were from a junk car, the codes were gone for a month but the misfire was still there. Eventually they came back. I bought some cheap eBay ones and they worked for a while. Eventually the codes came back and the misfire never left. I've got intake gaskets and a new fuel filter as well. I'll order the valve cover gasket set Friday. I'm thinking coils, cats or intake gaskets. If none of those fix it, I'm going to compression and block test it. Thanks again

[@E39Source]

Bad O2 sensors can cause misfires... I would start there. The computer is telling you that the O2s are bad, listen to it.

[@keltickiwi]

About to do this job, but are those bolts really 6mm? Thats incredibly small. I'd expect 10 or 8 at the smallest.

[@allusernamestaken01]

That white box under the cabin air filter should be the computer.

[@jahknorastableesup2440]

a I had too buy this too but I was told I didn't need it so yea but now I'm having ah coolant leak I think and it's dripping on too Di belt and I dnt no were frm doh can u give mi tips and it's not overheating either so yea tips tips plz

[@WestCoastAlex1]

Could a valve cover leak get oil in my intake system?? I have some noticeable oil in my throttle body, trying to figure it out.

[@E39Source]

Alex Ayres If it's bad enough, I suppose it could. You'd really have runs down the sides of the engine though.

[@WestCoastAlex1]

***** I do smell a little smoke on start up and I am have had a misfire code on the passanger side but I can not really see if there is any seepage running down the side of the engine. I am just wondering because there is oil in my throttle body and in front of the chokeplate.

[@confusedwhatme]

Alex Ayres we seem to have the same issue i havent taken off my throttle body to see have you checked ur plugs . i joined bimmerforum to ask questions and so far the only answers i get is upper timing intake and valve gaskets i have a bad ccv that has a horriable whine also

[@MSullivanFREE-BUSINESSES]

+Alex Ayres I had same issue, turned out to be collapsed rear CCV hoses, they get real soft with age, and when they get slightly clogged with oil sludge, or in cold weather with moisture freezing, they will suck oil into driver side intake plenum and smoke like crazy, so check those two hoses which are at back of manifold, feel them, if soft, replace them. CCV can cause same issue, but only if hoses are firm look to replace CCV at rear of manifold, a real bear to get to. Good luck

[@roberturkevich3233]

engine stall when pulling dipstick needs plate on back of intake replaced will cause oil burning its a version of pcv system

[@DLOWBIMMERS]

So i found alot of oil in my spark plug wells on both side of the block is that a bad valve cover gasket?

[@E39Source]

+dangelo ross Yes, that is probably the issue. I would replace the gasket and the plugs as well.

[@DLOWBIMMERS]

+E39Source yea I'm getting a misfire also oil burning and no codes are being thrown

[@davidstrawder7048]

Check your CCV and look into replacing those spark plugs, they're probably toast.

[@derekjevid2]

The hardest part about this job is the fuel injector clips

[@Gwarno]

Why remove the spark plugs in the first place? Seems that removing the plugs can be avoided altogether in order to change just the gasket. Can someone confirm if this is true? I do understand that one might as well replace the plugs while everything is taken apart but it seems unnecessary.

[@TheChedley]

Correct..

[@CaddiDaddy]

Andrew Polak yeah you don’t have to remove the spark plugs. And if the coils weren’t connect to the valve cover gasket you wouldn’t have to take those out either! Way simpler job then shown in this video.

[@bjenks2]

E39 source, just took my 740il on the highway up to 85 mph. It seems to have lost its torque. I passed a truck in my lane at WOT and it seemed slow. I pulled back into town and smelled rotten eggs from the exhaust and my torque pro app shows p0141 p0146 and p0161 as pending faults. Sound like cats?

[@E39Source]

Very probably cats... but the P codes are very generic. I would get a BMW scanner on it (like the Peake) and go from there. Bad plugs, MAFs, O2 sensors, or cam position sensors can cause a huge loss of power. (And VANOS, of course)

[@GrzegorzDurda]

Hey go ahead and check the connections on your O2 sensors from the sensor to the junction box. Very likely youll need a set of Pre and Post cat sensors (4 in total). IF and thats a big IF you need new Cats, youll STILL have to get 4 new sensors. Their design lifespan is 100K so anything over that is a bonus but WILL slowly drop off in reading accuracy. The P codes are generic but they're an international standard on all OBD2 vehicles. The engine runs on a control area network (CAN) and the sensors are the Nodes on the network with their own address and when they signal its a safe bet they need to be looked at. This same CAN network also runs most of the worlds industrial machinery including all the Cruise and cargo Ships. Anywhere there is an Engine there is a CAN network with the same set of Codes as they all use the same sensors just in different configurations etc..

[@bjenks2]

Grzegorz Durda cool I'm going to disconnect them and spray the plugs with electronic contact cleaner and check then. I'm still not ruling out the cats due to the lack of power, torque and the egg smell

[@GrzegorzDurda]

Id say you need to just replace them. One of the faults is the heater circuit on them so its a safe bet theyre gone. Keep in mind the o2 sensors give you your fuel mixture parameters. When they go you will likely have a rich mixture condition and have low power. The Egg smell is actually common on a lot of even new cars and its due to the Sulfur content of the fuel. It will become really apparent under more demanding loads. This is usually caused by the mixture setting and not necessarily a faulty cat but possibly, just not necessarily. If youre under there just replace them. They are a replaceable maintenance item just like Spark Plugs and should in fact be replaced every 100K together at the same time. I do Spark plugs every 75K AND new O2 sensors on my cars. Never had an issue as a result and cars always run like new and i never fouled a Cat.

[@da12641]

What year is this BMW? It has an exact same engine as my 2004 Range Rover.

[@E39Source]

+Darren Arni 2001

[@alexg1778]

Yeah they use the same engine. They were both built during the time that BMW owned Jaguar/Land Rover.

[@updlgq5885]

The hardest part is the removal of those damn clips. That 's what you absolutely need to show. The bolts and stuff, anybody can do it. The clips are a piss off. Showing how to do it would have helped.

[@BrianWEnglish]

You don't need to remove the clips. I have done this exact method myself: Quoting another poster: "You DO NOT, I repeat DO NOT have to remove the fuel injector clips. gentle tug (not much force required) will unplug the box from the injectors. A quick tip, it is far easier to move the left box around with the oil level sensor plug undone, gives a lot more slack."

[@catalinosolorzano7054]

Anyone know where I can purchase this kit can you give me the link please

[@E39Source]

Gaskets here: bit.ly/2pbTFYV

[@yaserrefaey1482]

that tank is not a tank is a box which have some fuses and relays plus its has the ECM and the TCM. THE EGINE COMPUTERS

[@vviiper]

lmao I got tons of oil in my cylinder when removing spark plugs due to a bad vcg, like lots. It smoked and burned it off in a couple of minutes. You'd need to get an alarming amount in the cylinder to cause any damage

[@1eldar777]

torque plzz

[@hashtagforlikes]

anyone know the torque settings for the bolts?

[@calebsilver6946]

Little late but I've read 7.5lbs

[@jdmcarboy64]

Idk where you learned how to read by the bolts are all 10MM

[@AntonKronberg]

A little oil in the cylinders is no biggie but debree such as metal flakes and bits of plastics should not go into the cylinders

[@DLOWBIMMERS]

That " tank " is the dme bro

[@McxCZ]

I konw it is a long lost comment, It is a ECU cover.

[@havenwells2754]

everything in this video is helpful aside from the part about removing the piece connected to the injectors. you just said that you need to remove the clips, without explaining at all how to remove the clips.

[@krazyrican2009]

Those bolts are 10mm.

[@bluedemond5332]

nothing is going to happens if some oil falls in the cylinder it would just get burn

[@zigandarov]

M62b35 good energi

[@jerryscholder462]

Metal injection clips are more than "hard" to get off; nearly impossible. That's why no videos show you it being done.

[@christopherlaskoski189]

All Those Oils......lol

[@tfgdj94694]

fuel filter? lol

[@warmachine_]

Def. Not a fuel filter..

[@rogieru8796]

6 mm bolts ?.??? 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂

[@jerryscholder462]

Did someone forget to pay the light bill? What about a shop light? I'm done.

[@cevinstube]

Seriously??? You can't just jump to the finish man! It was a good instructional until then.

[@jerryscholder462]

This guy is definitely not a credible source....Move On.