BMW E46 Bottom End Disassembly DIY

[@drew32]

I've been waiting for this video and you made it look so easy! Can't wait to see the next one. Looking forward to doing this myself!

[@ubcmember]

Your videos are the best when I need to work on the E46, which is a lot! Thank You!

[@johnbohn4760]

you should have a syndicated show! you're great!

[@50sKid]

Thanks!

[@jerryprize7800]

Hey Jason, great video as always! I am doing a similar project on a donor motor I found to rebuild for my 330CI convertible. The donor motor had been left outside and had rust in the #4 cylinder which seized it up. I used electrolysis to remove the rust and I was shocked to see that all the remaining cylinders still have crosshatching from honing. Looking forward to seeing the next video!

[@gentoolive]

Nice work as always, looking forward to the next video.

[@aor3200]

Great progress, cant wait for new videos. Good luck with rebuild :)

[@hhn2002]

YOUR CHANNEL IS EXCELLENT THANK YOU SO SO MUCH

[@mikelm7398]

It`s so good, cant wait for next Video!

[@low.est36]

i was just thinking, you can put magnets inside the drain pan so it can stick to the en gine stand. and BTW your videos helped me a lot with a 330ci and a head rpair for a 323i thanks and keep the videos coming

[@reginaldmorton2162]

This is so dope!

[@cmkm54]

Awsome content man! Keep it up!

[@derekkchung]

1:16, When you impacted out the bolt, didn't you worry about the chain getting jamming up inside when you did not lift n hold the chain up?

[@tbirdboy]

Outstanding breakdown of parts and all of the nuances of each . Will you tally all the costs involved that you paid in this rebuild? Having a good reference point will come in handy for anyone having to pay an engine builder God forbid their engine gives out. Again, excellent tutorial!

[@50sKid]

Yes I will. I'm getting a little behind with the descriptions in these videos but I will update them all once I'm done and put a link to my spreadsheets.

[@cb7rider18]

good job buddy

[@thepruffeshunal565]

So I’m doing a head gasket replacement. The timing chain guide somehow broke, and there no tutorials on how to replace it without the engine already removed. I can see clearly in your engine block removal video at the 25 minute mark when you had your bumper and brackets off. It looks like the timing cover is totally exposed. At does anyone know if it is possible or @50sKid do you know if I can remove those 4 oil pan bolts and the pulley and remove the timing cover here to replace my timing chain guide? Or is it absolutely necessary to remove my engine block. I need to avoid removing my engine because my apartment complex doesn’t allow us to have disassembled cars In the lot. So I have to remove the bumper and replace this guide in one day.

[@kenbak9596]

Actually, you can see the center rib clearly at 9:35 into the video. It goes vertical above the seal that you're discussing. Nothing comes in contact with the center rib, so it seems like it's ok to have the corner broken off. Do you know what this center rib is for?

[@huyushki]

Great video, as always! Can you measure the oil ring gap when inserted into the cylinder? Curious to see how much off it is from the oem spec, since this seems to be the reason for oil burning in m54s.

[@LikeDaBossxX]

good question. Also on this topic I think you can use m52 oil rings which are not 'low tension' thus fixing the problem. cheers

[@50sKid]

Yes that will be in the next video. Actually I think the second to next. Can't remember. They are both blueprinting videos. I am indeed using the M52TU oil rings. They are still low tension btw. It's just that the particular oil ring they used in the M54 was a bit less tension to improve economy. Not sure what causes it to wear so badly though.

[@Bioz123]

Do you have oil burning? Can you please, measure the oil rings and make a video on it?

[@kenbak9596]

Hey 50sKid, Do you know what the center rib is for on the inside of the timing chain cover? The rib is in the center of the loop of the chain. The rib protrudes towards the engine block, and it's vertical between the two plastic chain guides. I can see it briefly in your video once you have your cover off, and you flip it over. The rib on my cover has the corner of it broke off. I don't see a functional reason to need the rib, and I'm wondering if I can use my cover with the broken rib.

[@crescentandstarglory]

What causes the uneven wear on bearings?

[@javarithms]

Great video as always these videos are going to be useful when I rebuild my m54 down the road. One advice could you perhaps number the videos that are in a series so it would be easier to go to the next/previous one?

[@50sKid]

Check out this playlist to see all the videos in their numbered order: kzbin.info/aero/PLqJG4ZyPIF6OflXtgLWJOFdsiuc-UrZJX

[@fritzz2]

nice job

[@claudioferreira6578]

You could order and make a clean sweep in the car, in the vault of the motor and the chassis.

[@PaulSmith-oy8xp]

+1 on the continued quality! What about series sponsorship (RockAuto/Jegs/BavAuto/?)? You should never pay for another part in your life :-)

[@50sKid]

I should really look into that. Would have been a good idea during this rebuild! Perhaps next time...

[@williamshreffler5817]

if you change your m54 oil rings to the m52tu oil rings what would happen if you still use the O2 pilot mod?

[@chadhughes9800]

Can u replace a timing chain guide rail without removing the cylinder head. And or the oil pan i can take out the screws to oil pan and the two inside the upper timing housing but i am just couriius if thats possiable

[@ducewill]

Dude your videos are like a TV series , can't wait to see the next one . Great job, what's the cost so far ?

[@tonyrunyon375]

Im.not a serious engine builder and I've never done a bmw engine but those bearings look like u may have had to much crank end play? What did u find out?

[@davidblair2007]

Where did you get your rebuild kit

[@DonQ150]

I have a question for you. Do you plan to dynamically balance the engine?

[@50sKid]

You actually do not need to dynamically balance an inline 6 crankshaft (or a flat plane inline 4). Meaning you do not need to rebalance the crankshaft if the weights of the pistons or rods change, like you do on a V6 or V8. However, I did take the crank to the machine shop to have them check the balance from the factory. It was right on. They cleaned it and gave it a quick mini polish. There are pics on my facebook

[@JackRR15]

Could you help me understand the rod bearings and crank bearings. Is the reason for their existence, so the part can stay in place while providing a smooth surface to turn on?

[@50sKid]

Yeah they are made out of a softer metal so when the harder crankshaft rides on them, the softer metal wears away. However that is never supposed to happen because there is always a layer of oil sandwiched between them that keeps them separated, among other things.

[@JackRR15]

Ah okok. And when they wear down to their last layers, is that layer of metal not softer and why it's then bad and you get knock?

[@tonycopelyn8730]

I was using your series to replace head gasket...having problems with time-serts...now having problems with big serts. Could I just transfer my block engine parts into an empty donor block with good head bolt threads and be done or is there more detail that would need to be involved than simply moving parts to new engine block? Thanks

[@50sKid]

You don't want to take the rings that are worn into your existing block and use them in a different block with a different wear pattern. What problem are you having with the serts?

[@tonycopelyn8730]

Thanks....I have never seen an engine block before (LOL) so I did not realize that there were already time serts in block (2nd go round for this engine) and drilled out old time serts and installed new time serts which did not hold. So I tried to use big serts and then mucked up the block (did not place big serts at uniform distance from block surface...then tried to remove and reinstall big sert and made big hole in block...now needing new block).Separate question...I found another block that does not have hx of over-heating...threads look great...but is there concern that I could still have problems with final torque and threads pull away....Should I time sert them preventatively? Thanks

[@tonycopelyn8730]

Thanks....I have never seen an engine block before (LOL) so I did not realize that there were already time serts in block (2nd go round for this engine) and drilled out old time serts and installed new time serts which did not hold. So I tried to use big serts and then mucked up the block (did not place big serts at uniform distance from block surface...then tried to remove and reinstall big sert and made big hole in block...now needing new block).Separate question...I found another block that does not have hx of over-heating...threads look great...but is there concern that I could still have problems with final torque and threads pull away....Should I time sert them preventatively? Thanks

[@ernest6590]

if I got oil in the oil filter should I do just the heads & rings

[@ernest6590]

if I got water in the oil filter should I just do the heads in the rings or should I replace the Pistons as well

[@adilalmandarl3746]

ماشاء الله ممتاز متفيدين من شرح

[@FlightDeckGA]

What’s that part at 24:27 called?

[@ditosptube]

Great videos Kid. Curious, what kind of camera do you use for these recordings?

[@50sKid]

Sony FDR-AX33

[@jonzxcv]

Is the engine block cast iron or aluminum? I heard that M52s are cast iron and M54s are aluminum

[@50sKid]

The E46 chassis M52TU (323/328i) and M54 (325/330i) engines were aluminum blocks. The E36 chassis M52 engine was cast iron.

[@jonzxcv]

50sKid I see. Thank you for clarifying

[@DonQ150]

Great job Jason The main bearings look fine. On the other hand, the connecting rod bearings deserve a closer look. I agree with you on the concern but is hard to do diagnostic remotely. I found this guide on-line, it may be helpful to you and others. Check page 9. www.wilmink.nl/Clevite/Clevite_lagerschade_tech_info.pdf