BMW F30 Rear Brake Pad & Disc Replacement DIY (228i, 328i, 430i, & More)

[@JonasRidesF32]

Just did the job yesterday. For the most part it saved my life . I did it in a Walmart parking lot .i did put grease on the caliber where the brake pads meet and after the job I did have to pump the brakes but other than that this video is 100% the right way to do things you may need a breaker bar cause some of those nuts were kind of stuck, but other than that worked out. Guy road by and said I was cheating for looking at your video😂

[@stuartwickson8535]

Thanks FCP, this was a great video with really clear well thought out instructions. Never changed brakes and rotors before and following this video was super easy to do. Also saved around $1k of garage labor!!!

[@ScottPC]

Good tutorial. If anyone’s doing this at home on the driveway then be wary you need to jack this up as high as possible to get leverage on the rear calliper bolts!!! Nearly beat me with how seizzed in they were

[@fcpeuro]

Great note, Scott!

[@coleBlap]

Anyone else having trouble getting the lower 16mm caliper bolt on the driver side? I’ve got the other side off but ive damn near rounded this 16mm bolt trying to get it off

[@kausar456]

No anti seize? No grease?? Just ordered pads rotors kit from you guys

[@robertoterriquez2132]

Thank you for this video. My rotors did not come off easily. I had to use a 3 jaw extractor to get them off. I got them at Harbor Freight for 20 bucks. They did the trick just fine.

[@fcpeuro]

Sometimes they can be a real bear to get off, we often end up taking a LARGE hammer swing at em, to pop them off, it can feel violent though.

[@recklezz_9738]

Have to do this on my 340 soon. Thanks for the timely upload👌🏾

[@fcpeuro]

Anytime!

[@oldjarhead1125]

Garth, Did I miss something? I didn't see you apply any lube/paste on the slide points of the pads/caliper. Is this not needed or recommended?

[@UFOGHOSTHUNTER]

It IS recommended.

[@prokashdebnath5748]

Replaced my rear brake discs f30 328i a few days ago. Thanks for the excellent video guys.

[@mhk1058]

Is it necessary to take the guide bolts out? Can you just undo the carrier bolts and take the whole thing off as one?

[@michaelgleason4679]

Newbie here. Apologies ahead of time. At 1:16 is he saying I'll need a torque wrench that goes to 110Nm for the carrier bolts? At 7:22 the graphic says 50Nm +90 for the carrier bolts.

[@Gino20202]

How does every F30 rear brake job you do not have an electronic parking brake? Seeing a rear brake job with an EPB would be helpful.

[@kahroncrawley8921]

Some of my wheel lug bolts won’t go in all the way after my brake pad change. I torqued them good and did the star pattern but some are still poking more out than others, and stop faster than the other ones going all the way in. Did I strip something or do I need a new wheel bearing?

[@cabottaxi]

Before I attempt a complete 4 wheel rotor / pad change do I need to buy a specific piston rewind tool or would a standard rewind tool be sufficient with the old pad still in place? Is the piston screwed back or just pushed back ? Last time I did this job 30 years ago I used a small pice of wood against the old pad. I have standard single piston calipers.

[@1oo1optimus]

I'm trying to find this answe also

[@maxwellkeeling3781]

No. Both the front and rear standard brakes pistons can be compressed with a vise or any other compression type tool. If you're really strong, you can just use your hands! (provided the bleeder is open).

[@Dnzkrtls]

I really benefit from this video channel. Thank you for your information.

[@fcpeuro]

Happy to hear it, thank you!

[@bjornefellhanded9708]

Could you clarify something for me please? The front caliper bolts are tightened to 110 Nm (Watched your previous vid on the topic). For this vid, at the start you say you need a torque wrench capable of 110 Nm but then you do the rear caliper bolts to 50 Nm plus 90 degrees. Is the rear specifically different to the front? Good vids though - will be using them shortly to do front and rear pads and rotors on 220i.

[@crsbnl4441]

Hi did you find the answer to this ? I’m confused about the torque spec for the rear.

[@bjornefellhanded9708]

@@crsbnl4441 No I didnt. I believe they changed the bolts (and subsequent torque specs) after a certain year model but couldnt find enough information on it. I prefer to geta concensus on information for my projects. I got annoyed at the contrary information and just used the old specs of 110 nm (18mm bolt) and 28nm (8mm allen bolt)

[@crsbnl4441]

@@bjornefellhanded9708 same here I haven’t done rotors since I can’t find the info. Did you reuse the same bolts for the rear ? Thanks again for your help

[@bjornefellhanded9708]

@@crsbnl4441 I did indeed reuse them. They were in good condition, cinched well, and I used blue locktite. My dealership quoted $2100 for front and rear pads and rotors, I spent $538 and did full fluid flush, new sensors, ceramic protex ultra pads, and protex rotors with the rust prevention coating that doesnt require cleaning before installation. Computer reset is easy too - done on the dash. Pretty damn chuffed with the result. That horrible snatchiness of standard BWM brakes is gone and good riddance. As is the mess that was a constant on the rims. Three tips that I uncovered/forgot. The wheels will almost stick to the hub they're that tightly engineered. A tiny bit of rust and theyll stick so hard it appears impossible to remove them. Use a baby sledge on the back of the tyre outwards. So from under the car, hitting outwards. Just extend your arm under - dont be thumping on wheels while youre under the car. Support the wheel with your foot so it doesnt spring away when it comes loose. No other trick worked. And dont forget to let the handbrake off when working the rear wheels or the bloody rotors wont come off and youll be freaking out like I did trying to work out why! :) And dont forget to remove that bloody filter from the brake fluid reservoir. You'll top it up, it'll look topped up, then suddenly it'll be empty, you'll have no damn brakes and you'll have to restart the flush to get the air out. Live and learn eh? Regardless of what brand you choose, pick the right bits and pieces. There seems to be a combination of around 5 differences in the BMW brake setups. Oh, and use some kind of anti seize on the freshly cleaned hubs so the wheels dont seize in the future.

[@michaelgleason4679]

Any answer on this? Help please

[@abeq281]

Question hopefully you see this in time. Are these electric rear brakes?

[@elmayimbe_the_amateur_mechanic]

No they are not.

[@afhostie]

Are the carrier bolts single use?

[@sidchabat9514]

Do we need to do anything inside the car after the brake service ? Resetting ?

[@defb4disonasouthpaw]

Do you need to bleed the brakes after change thanks

[@DabDaddy11_YT]

Is this job the same for a 2020 430i xDrive gran coupe/ m sport package?

[@Legendarygamer0202]

quick question, the rear anti rattle clip you have for the 428i xdrive has a bmw logo solid looking piece in the middle, do you use 4 of the front ones or are they interchangeable?

[@marekams8201]

Super pozdrawiam z polski dobra robota

[@davelupin9885]

Hi do we need put grease on the guide pins?

[@KaoLee-fv8mm]

No need to bleed the brakes?

[@alejandroortiz2162]

Hey do you replace the rear caliper bolts?

[@iamweston9052]

The caliper brake boot at 4:00 on my 2015 f30 328i xdrive has 18mm bolts in it, not 16mm? Is this only my car that’s like this? I’m actually so confused but the 16 mm socket I have definitely does not fit

[@fcpeuro]

Hi Weston, if you are referring to the two bolts that hold the caliper carrier in place, there is a chance they used slightly different sized hardware on your 15' model. Traditionally they tend to be 16mm for these vehicles. Cannot hurt to double-check!.

[@F30_Hellion]

Hey I'm replacing discs and pads today on all wheels. However I didn't buy new sensors because I didn't know it was needed. Everything is closed today so I can't buy any. Do I need to buy new ones or will it work anyways? Thank you!

[@fcpeuro]

Depending on the condition of them, you may be able to re-use them if removed carefully!

[@the340iguy4]

Hi FCP, great video. i'll be referencing this for my brake pad swap. I got Akebono EUR1656 as my rear pads for my 2017 F30 340i, which show as compatible on multiple websites. What's throwing me off is that these pads do not have a backing clip on them, all 4 pads have a flat backing. Is this a specific brake pad revision for the 340i or something like that? thank you in advance

[@1oo1optimus]

How could you compress the caliper piston without that tool.. does bleeding it make it easier? And how would you get pressure back?

[@stocke46]

you might have to get creative. bleeding does not make it easier. you get pressure back when you put your foot on the pedal after install

[@peterspinuzzi9695]

Does this cover a 2020 230ix?

[@81omasta]

Really great video,thx

[@gwashington8621]

Do you have a lawn channel too?

[@tylerevans2261]

can you guys do a video on b8.5 s4/s5 motor mount install?

[@TK-gd9td]

Are brake pads same for M sport versus stock base calipers? the FCP site brake pads say brake pads are for both stock & m sport, is that correct?

[@beeya217]

Good morning how are guys? I have a question, my car bmw 428i grancoupe running smoothly almost 5k after service at bmw dealer but after DYI replacement brake and rotors (oem) and aftermarket sensor the drivetrain malfunction popping up on the screen. Actually I restart the car and it won’t go out then I just hit the OK button on screen then back home safety. So it cause of sensor or something happens on engine?(n20)

[@Moneymaking_jay]

Do i have to buy 2 rotors or does it come as a set?

[@fcpeuro]

Hello, all the rotors are listed individually so you would need to order them in pairs!

[@jbond119]

Is there any adjusting required for the parking brake? I read the procedure in the TIS and it’s a lot more complicated around that part.

[@fcpeuro]

Depending on the life left on the parking brake pads, you sometimes need to adjust them in a bit if you are having trouble removing the old disc, or sliding on the new one. The adjustment itself is pretty standard as it is on most BMWs, usually adjusting through one of the holes in the hub.

[@jbond119]

@@fcpeuro awesome thanks!

[@aitchthegamer581]

I have a 2014 f31 320D, would these discs fit my car?

[@fcpeuro]

Hi Vxr, because we did not get that model here in the U.S, we do not have that model on our vehicle selector. If you reach out to our service team with your VIN, they can help you find the appropriate disc sizes for your model. You can reach them at [e-mail]

[@excribo2713]

is it necessary to do a brake bleed after changing brakepads or even brake callipers?

[@jdsofar]

Just pump the brakes.

[@recklezz_9738]

How are those TRW Ultra pads in terms of noise, brake dust, and stopping power compared to oem?

[@fcpeuro]

From all of our testing we've been really impressed. Being ceramic the dust is almost non existent, they are quiet and have more than sufficient stopping power and initial bite. Is it a track pad? No . Is it a great daily /spirited driving pad? Yes

[@recklezz_9738]

@@fcpeuro on the same level as Akebono Euro pads? Only reason i ask is because i was looking into getting the Akebonos but i see you guys offer a set of rotors and TRW package, so just doing my due diligence. Thanks for you response.

[@fcpeuro]

@@recklezz_9738 we have been comparing them directly with the tried and true Akebono, and the two sets are equally capable in terms of brake dust and performance. Cant go wrong with either set really.

[@benranson8424]

Just did mine on my 2013 430d. Everything went smoothly except for the removal of the 16mm caliper bolts. Each side took about 10 minutes to get these off as they were so stiff throughout the entire thread, i had to use a long arm wrench with very limited turning room. Once I'd got them off and inspected them it seems there was some kind of blue goo in the middle of each thread. Is this normal?

[@fcpeuro]

Hey Ben they come with Factory Locktite on them, so totally normal that they were a bit tough to get out, thats what the locktite is intended for!

[@benranson8424]

@@fcpeuro thanks for the quick response. I thought it might be that. Does this have to be renewed, or is it ok to reuse the bolts without new loctite, tightened to the required torque?

[@fcpeuro]

@@benranson8424 you're okay to run without it, sometimes new factory bolts will come with it on. As long as you are torqueing to spec though you should be just fine. You can always toss a paint mark on the bolts for ease of mind to check on occasionally as well!

[@SteezyShy]

Does anyone know if I need 4 brake sensor or 2 sensor?

[@fcpeuro]

Hi Shy, be sure to check the kits available for your specific model on FCPEuro.com!

[@anthonymoore8480]

Great job!!!

[@davec5237]

Thanks for posting 👍

[@fcpeuro]

No problem, Dave!

[@KaapoWorld]

Hey just a quick question! Can you reuse the Caliper bolts?

[@JMD535]

...yeah! Tires are next!

[@whymedude88]

Hey Gareth! Love watching your videos. I have a a BMW 2013 550i GT with 64km. Wondering what code reading device would be great to have and would be able to retract the Parking break actuator?

[@fcpeuro]

Great to have is our favorite Autel MX808 www.fcpeuro.com/products/maxicheck-mx808-obdii-scanner-autel-mx808 , that said you don't need it to retract a parking brake actuator on your car since its not on the caliper like it is on VW's and Audis.

[@F30_Hellion]

Hey! Two weeks ago I changed all my rotors and pads on my F30. However since then I've had a pretty bad squeak from the rear right brake when braking hard (not very hard but at stop lights etc). What can be the issue? I cleaned everything with a wire brush, put new sensor, double checked everything etc and I didn't buy cheap pads either. I'm borrowing my dads garage today to do some troubleshooting but he lives over an hour away so I would really appreciate any advice so I know where to start. Originally I thought it would go away after driving a week or so to get everything settled but it's still the same so that's why I figured it must be something else. It's a pretty high pitched squeak, if I'm just pressing lightly on the brake then I can't hear anything, braking hard at high speeds doesn't seem to produce the sound either, just at slower speeds when coming to a stop at red lights, going slowly over speed bumps etc. It stops when I let go of the brake pedal. Also there's no feedback to the pedal like pulsating, scraping etc. Hope I described it enough for you. Any help is appreciated. Thank you!

[@fcpeuro]

Hi Fergus, you could try using some brake paste on the ears of the pads where they ride against the carrier to see if the noise goes away. Sometimes without that they get a bit hung up and can get noisy.

[@jhodoe6684]

Clean and relube the caliper pins

[@srdfcgvhbn]

the caliper carrier bolts are bitch getting off. i can't use impact due to car on the jack, no space whatsoever, should I have removed the plastic cover under the driveshaft or control arm ( whatever it call) . thanks

[@noreengamer9223]

what did u ever do to get them off cause mine wont come off either. its like 80 pounds of torque in there

[@benranson8424]

Had the same nightmare (see my main comment)

[@teky444]

You can use an impact I just did mine yesterday, I took the splash guard off the bottom rear (x4 10mm bolts) and it gave me enough room to get to them both. I also couldn’t do it by hand… Edit: my car was also on a jack not a lift.

[@StachoStacho-fm1uz]

Jesteś najlepszy...Dziękuję 😊

[@tomaszs1243]

Gareth, as usual - quality and informative video! But I'm still waiting for a day when Harry's sponsors your videos! 😂 Much love from a fellow gorilla! 🦍

[@sunflower073]

Wtf man the rotor is stuck to the parking break mechanism

[@JonasRidesF32]

So no pumping the brakes or anything

[@seppmeier9961]

new caliper bolts. 8.42€

[@lukezillig6111]

do you need to grease those pins like some slider pins?

[@elmayimbe_the_amateur_mechanic]

Yes