BMW m57 335d X5d Diesel Code 4530 Diagnosis

[@werewolf1701]

Awesome instruction, was able to determine a leak in the control valve just with a 25$ tool. Parts are ordered. Can’t imagine how much dealer will charge me for that, also thanks for explanation about the actuator, was really useful, keep doing more videos 👍🏼

[@alphadevyat]

Glad you found it useful

[@vladblak]

​@@alphadevyat just a QQ, the yale valve has to have a continuos + or a continuous -? Why I am asking, it's because the bypass it's always open, and while diagnosing, we got to the point that the Yale valve doesnt have a "-" (mass) while the plus is always 12 volts. Also checked the cable and is good...

[@alphadevyat]

@@vladblak honestly I never checked. But BMW is not a ground switching system so it should have the ground (mass) always and only energizes the positive +. If in doubt I would be checking the wiring diagram in newTIS. Also this bypass valve has to hold vacuum at rest. So it’s always closed. And only when energized it opens and passes the vacuum. So at rest if you apply vacuum to the straight nipple it has to hold vacuum. That’s how you test if it’s good.

[@vladblak]

@@alphadevyat so as far as I understood, the ground should be always on, and even if the yale valve has no ground it should be closed and the small turbine should be boosting the big turbine properly?

[@alphadevyat]

@@vladblak yes you should always have ground on it and it should be normally closed and vacuum tight. As in you should not have any vacuum at the output of this valve. If we are talking about a compressor bypass valve then it’s in an air side of the system, not an exhaust and not about small turbine vs big turbine. Compressor bypass controls the compressed air output from small vs large turbine.

[@kashubelua]

Some people out there know their job! 👍

[@cristianflores8920]

This video helped my 4530 code I had the EXCAT same issue it was the hose. I replaced with silicone to not worry about it in the future

[@nationalenquirer1926]

Great informative vid from a guy who knows what he’s doing

[@alphadevyat]

Thank you.

[@CHOMPOMAR1]

@@alphadevyat Great info Are you based in Europe or US?

[@alphadevyat]

@@CHOMPOMAR1 Canada 🇨🇦

[@matthewromano8801]

Great diag video! I recently lost boost from the big turbo, spools to 26 and then you can see the changeover happen and it drops to 10. I replaced one pressure converter two years ago but I think the other one has gone bad as well. I gotta check the bypass one too

[@jeffc6832]

Thank you for the excellent explanation. I just picked up a second X5D...so I know this is going to come in handy some day.

[@londongangster1]

Very helpfull video mate,my bemer is 535d and I have the same problem with vaccum hoses.I did chek them after watching your video and is defo them hoses,all burned and dry,so next week hopefully will get time and replace all of them.Thanks very much

[@alphadevyat]

Hope it’s helpful. Fit them carefully not to break anything and fit onto the right nipples.

[@OoDub]

Awesome video as usual guys!

[@neilrobinson5115]

Great video,wonderful to have the knowledge

[@Voldermort98]

great! you should do exhaust manifold gasket video next!

[@ggua92722]

Really good and interesting info you presented here. Thank you

[@williwonkah.9242]

Excellent video. Extremely informative. Thanks.

[@alphadevyat]

Thank you. Appreciate your feedback.

[@chrisbullen4317]

Aawesome video !! I got the code (4530) ! I was just wondering (maybe a crazy idea) about installing the LV valve in a more accessible location? Does it need to be buried?

[@alphadevyat]

@@chrisbullen4317 yeah it’s a horrible location. Nothing stops anyone from relocating it.

[@eduardtilita321]

Applying vacuum with the vacuum pump to the wastegate actuator, I have to pump 4 times before gauge starts moving, after 4 pumps, every pump moves the gauge, bad actuator?

[@emersonmuyco9245]

Love your channel. got a code 4530 after replacing my water pump and thermostat. Also get black smoke egr cooler? Normal?

[@wesleyjones6535]

I’m going to have to try this. My 2012 e70 35d started blowing bluish smoke from the tail pipes and there is an extremely strong smell of burning oil. I was thinking a bad valve cover gasket. I get CELs intermittently on the dash but, they seem to clear. I have low power and when I scan, I do see code 4530. Was also thinking maybe the LP turbo is the problem.

[@alphadevyat]

Most likely a small turbo kaput.

[@luptakt]

hi, i've got E61 2009 173kw M57 engine, I also had 4530 error, I have sluggish acceleration from low revs, when turbo kicks in at about 1800rpm, and there was weird lag from 1800 until the car gave up on accelerating and just downshifted, then the car drove quite good I'd say, I can compare with my old 170kw pre LCI. we diagnosed the car with ISTA, some vacuum lines were replaced, MAP sensor, EGR was checked, turbo replaced. the turbo delay went away and car drives already good from 1800rpm, predictably, but still has sluggish acceleartion from low revs. also the fuel consuption is higher with same driving style than on my preLCI E61. we're out of ideas. our idea was that something is choking the engine and thus it needs to use more fuel to got to the speed. what would be your guess? I'll take any advice already.

[@alphadevyat]

I’m not very good with model differences on euro spec cars, but does your E61 LCI have a DPF? Does this car have only one VNT turbo with electronic controller? Also, has MAF been replaced?

[@OlaGbolahan]

Where are you located? I would love to have your help with diagnosing my 2011 X5 35d engine limp mode issue. From reading, someone with the same issues (ie Engine Malfunction - low power mode) when under load had a bad vacuum control Valve. The dealer thought it might be the small turbo. Wish at minimum I had a diagram or "how to" to be able to do these tests you have done. I don't know that i feel confident enough to cut vacuum lines like you but maybe if i had a diagram to let me know where to re-attach things. Could a vacuum control valve be my issue and if so how can I easily test this?

[@adrianfuentes4881]

Motor mount diagram @ 7:31. I'm confused with the diagram. It appears that the input side of the EV is tubed straight to the motor mount and the side nipple of the EV is going somewhere else. If that an error on the diagram? Shouldn't the straight nipple on the EV be hooked up directly to vacuum supply?

[@alphadevyat]

Correct it’s a mistake in the diagram EL valve straight nipple is always a vacuum input and side nippple is an output in this case would go to motor mount feed.

[@adrianfuentes4881]

Ok thank you! I'm struggling trying to find out why I'm getting the 4530 code..I have a 2011 X5 35D E70. - replaced all vacuum hoses (passenger side, driver side and the two going under the car from the passenger side) - replaced all boost converter sov's, ev actuators (passenger and driver side) - verified motor mount EL valve holds / works - turbo switch over actuator / vacuum box holds vacuum and that the rod actuates / moves..and the pressure converter works as well - cleaned MAF - tested compressor bypass vacuum actuator toward the front of the car (switch over from low/high pressure turbo)..holds vacuum - tested wastgate - tubing one the passenger side that goes underneath engine. Holds vacuum - confirmed wastegate holds vacuum and actuates/ moves correctly - confirmed all sov's and ev actuators work - confirmed vacuum accumulator box holds vacuum - confirmed vacuum pump works, no leaks, pulls 30" vacuum pressure. All 3.5m hoses are new and each tested - replaced intake pipe going into turbo and ccv hose - confirmed motor mounts hold vacuum - replaced thermostat - replaced valve cover and gaskets - replaced intake manifold gaskets - replaced exhaust backpressure sensor and cleaned pipe/tubing - changed engine old and filter

[@adrianfuentes4881]

Btw...it's def/egr/dpf deleted

[@alphadevyat]

@@adrianfuentes4881 the pressure converter that was used to control LP EGR, where is that at now and what happened to the feel line to it.

[@adrianfuentes4881]

It was completely removed. It used to t-off from the vaccum feed line to the egr and toward the accumulator box. All the vacuum hoses have been replaced with silicone and now it just runs from the feed line to the pressure coverters / accuumulator. The delete was performed about a year ago by an indy.. everything has been fine until about a month ago. I did notice that the pressure converter that is next to the motor mount EV on the drive side under the intake manifold goes to the front near where the EGR cooler used to be and goes under the passenger side engine and connects to what I think is the AGR? I connected a pump and the line isn't pulling a vacuum while on idle.. not sure if isn't even still needed with the delete and all.. I'm stumped🤦‍♂️🤷‍♂️

[@billmarzana1086]

Great vid. My compressor bypass valve is sticky. Needs about '10hg in order for it to free itself, then it travels the full sweep. It's pretty tight down there, best way to free that stupid thing up?

[@alphadevyat]

Hey Bill, 10inHg is ok. Once it’s activated it should see full system vacuum of 25-29inHg and open. The issue that should be examined is to make sure it fully closes. Lots of Europeans experienced sticky compressor bypass flaps. The only way to check it is from the hot side boost hose side. From below, once boost hose is removed, you can see it and check.

[@fraizer2600]

will be great if you can tell if my way of testing my by by-pass is fine. because i just receive the andoscope camera too look inside :)

[@bm-garage]

Great video, I’ll be using it soon when diagnosing my issues! What do you guys think of replacing the factory likes with straight silicone lines instead of the braided ones?

[@alphadevyat]

Silicone vacuum lines work well. Just make sure to get the right size. If you are in USA then FCP Euro has really good ones, part number 11731259996

[@funnellw]

Hi, hoping you can help, I have e92 335d m57 engine, when I start car it won’t turn over to second turbo, however if I turn engine off and on it then works fine, however as soon as my car comes to a stop, and then I go again the problem happens again, everytime it can be fixed by me turning engine on and off? What could it be please? I replaced MAF that didn’t work, thinking to change the boost solenoid next. Thanks

[@3556mak]

hi any vids on replacing egr solenoid , I have a 535d and need some tips many thanks

[@jamestownautomotiveinc.1190]

Have 2012 x5 35d with no boost at all, wont even make 350 mbar. sets 4530 and 4865. ive replaced all the vacuum lines, all waste gates and valves seem to work with a vacuum pump, any further info on pressure converter diagnosis?

[@alphadevyat]

How’s the high pressure (small) turbo? Have you done any data logging?

[@shelldodo12]

Great! I have low vacuum leakage issues, I test drive side of system as you did, when engine start I got 20 inch vacuum, but when turn off engine the drive side of system cannot hold vacuum, I test EGR VACUUM CONTROLLER is ok like you did, do you know what I should do for next step to find bad parts? thank you.

[@alphadevyat]

If you got 20inHg at idle then you definitely have leaks somewhere. Broken nipples on connector or bad pressure converters are first to check. Leaking motor mounts are also to check. They have to hold vacuum. Check everything. It’s a closed system. One part leaking will cause problems for other parts or turbo control.

[@shelldodo12]

@@alphadevyat thanks much, I pull out the DDE code: 4779 and 47c4, yes, I will check it

[@FlAvIuS861]

nice video where is the best to buy these vacuum lines in UK?

[@philipcoughlan7449]

Great detail I have a mini Cooper d with the BMW b47engine in it change driven car start and drives but won't go past 3000rmp I done a test pressure convertor like you with that gave put it on the blue pipe and finger on other pipe pumped but won,t hold pressure at all could this be my problem or would it be timeing chain would be very grateful for advice thanks

[@alphadevyat]

Philip, depends on the B47 version you got in your Mini. Some came with bi-turbo. Assume that’s what you have cos VNT are electrically controlled. Just keep one thing in mind when you test pressure converters. They don’t hold pressure unless energized. In this video we tested switchover valve. These do hold without current. Pressure converters do not. Best to run it through an ISTA test plan and see how fast it switches over. Or hook up a vac gauge in-line with an output line and see how it behaves in driving situations. But you need to know what to expect of it. I usually run a TestO parameter output from a pressure converter to see what computer asks of it.

[@philipcoughlan7449]

@@alphadevyat would a timeing chain stop me going over 4000 revs or make it go into limp mode sorry this is n47 mini Cooper d 1.6

[@alphadevyat]

@@philipcoughlan7449 if your timing is out yes

[@msworkgroup007]

Thanks for the great video! You really know this diesel stuff! I do have one question for you if you could steer me into the right direction I would appreciate it very much. I own 2012 X5 E70 Diesel (M57) and today driving to work I stopped at intersection when I realized big cloud of white/grayish smoke started coming out of my exhaust pipes. It was to the point that I was not able to see cars behind me. I pulled over and turned off the car and checked tailpipes. The smoke smelled almost like vinegar. Checked oil dipstick and coolant level and both were fine. After 20 minutes or so started it again and immediately went to MENU to check the systems and it said that all systems were OK. At this point it did not smoke. I shifted to drive and drove maybe 500 feet when it started doing the same thing again. This time around I was able to see a few drops of either oil or unburnt diesel (black deposits) around the tailpipes on passenger tailpipe. After this I called the towing company and they towed it to my house. I was under the impression that I had blown engine but what puzzles me is that I did not get a power loss at all. It would accelerate normally. I would not even know it was smoking if I did not look at mirrors. About an hour ago I started it for a brief 10 seconds and it was smoking but engine sounded normal. What would be your opinion? Maybe stuck injector, bad glow plug or tossed engine? I have to start it somewhere since my warranty has expired. Thank you so much in advance!

[@alphadevyat]

msworkgroup007 white smoke is either coolant or raw fuel. If it smells like raw diesel then likely a stuck injector. You said smells like vinegar. If your car is stock you may have a cracked EGR cooler that is shooting coolant into your intake. I would remove the EGR valve to check. If you have coolant in your intake/EGR cooler outlet. If it’s cooler you will need to replace the O2 sensor as well as coolant will kill it.

[@msworkgroup007]

Thank you so much for a response. I will start at EGR cooler first then work my way around. Do you have a recommendation for a decent BMW code scanner?

[@alphadevyat]

msworkgroup007 ProTool is a good one. Otherwise ISTA is always the best. Some people like Foxwell.

[@msworkgroup007]

@@alphadevyat Thank you so much! You helped me greatly! Yesterday I started it again and it was idling fine without any smoke for about 5 minutes. Once exhaust got hot then it started steaming (white smoke) slowly indicating evaporation of coolant from the pipe. Most likely I have a problem with one of the coolers, either the top one by the fan shroud or the lower one. I will start with the EGR valve inspection on the top to see if there is any coolant in it. If the EGR valve is dry and carbon deposits are still there I might have an issue with head gasket. Most people say that this gasket is unlikely a culprit but I don't know until I inspect the EGR valve. I just hope that the problem I am having is not combination of both EGR and head gasket. I just don't know why my check engine light is not on. Thanks again!

[@alphadevyat]

msworkgroup007 unless you have severely overheated the motor at some point, head gasket is a very unlikely issue.

[@howlinmoondog]

Ive got an E91 330D M57 engine that farts every 2 or 3 seconds on the left side of the engine near the firewall.(RHD).I am pretty sure this is the pressure control valve in that area. Any ideas what is causing that? It starts up after the engine has been running for a minute or two.

[@alphadevyat]

If you have an M57 in a 330d then your EGR and swirl flaps are vacuum controlled. Both an EL (on/off) valve for the swirl flaps and a pressure converter for the EGR control are under the intake manifold on the left side where you hear the noise. I bet it’s a pressure converter that needs replacing. But once you are under there you can test the EL valve and renew your vacuum lines. And manifold gaskets.

[@theemkay11]

Hi. I have same diagnose error 4530, 35d e92 car goes slow before 3k rpm after that when the big turbo kicks in goes well like always.. can you tell me the exact hose to replace instead of replacing all of them cuz its a hard work thank you so much.

[@alphadevyat]

Hi Meri, unfortunately I can’t tell you which hose to replace. It may be a hose or a nipple broken or a vac accumulator cracked or leaking/failed pressure converters or control valves. It’s a closed loop system. A failure of one seemingly unrelated part will affect the rest of the vacuum system.

[@theemkay11]

@@alphadevyat thank you 👍🏻

[@800menproductions]

if im getting no vacuum on output side, does that mean its bad?

[@alphadevyat]

Depending on what condition. It’s usually closed. So if you are measuring at idle it’s normal. This valve only opens after 3200rpm and high boost.

[@dieselwagon335d9]

do you know what code 00428B coud be? Car goes fine to from 0-180kmh and then go to limpmode. Just restart the car and its fine again...

[@alphadevyat]

Usually a poorly designed tune

[@fabini14]

Hi, i have 535d Pre lci, and my car never boosted very good from low rpm, i replaced all the lines and the 3 vacum actuators, all the flaps old vacum fine, when i replaced the turbos last year i took apart switchover valve of the exhaust, and when i put i together i use the same as LCI, full vacum and 4 turns of pre tension, it seems to have more boost on low rpm but not enough, did you know how many turns of pre tension will i need? I never loged the car to see the diference, i think that is just adjustment, but i never measure how much vacum i have, could be just not enough vacum to keep the valve closed?

[@alphadevyat]

If you disconnect the rod you can see the range of motion of the flap. Mark the closed and open positions. Then mark how far the rod retracts with the full vacuum. You can just use a marker. Then set your rod to such a pretension where with a full vacuum applied and rod retracts and the flap is fully closed. Hope that makes sense.

[@fabini14]

@@alphadevyat i check today all my vac tested everything and find out that i have disconected vacum pipe on the compressor bypass, i conect everything and measure vacum and find out that i only have 26 inch of mercury, but i have no more vacum leaks, is that normal? I use cheap vacum pump could be that to. I have did logs before and it show overboost and very unstable boost up and down can not estabilize boost, I need to test know after all this work to see if is better.

[@fraizer2600]

Thank you again for this great video. unfortunatly i have always my power lost under 1800tr/min. can you pleas explain me how work the By-pass wastegate ? when we start the car and when is unders 1800tr/min the flap of the by passe is closed ? like the big wastegate close the flap ? when the car is power off this by pass flap is closed ? and last one at how many mbar or another mesure unit this bypass waste gate is totaly open or close ? when i put depression i hear sound but is like from the actuator of the by pass i dont hear like you the flap open or close. i am unfortunatly not in same country of you if was the case i will already take you my car even if i need to drive 2000km... i have an 635D who is an M57U diesel engine with 2 turbos like this one normaly

[@alphadevyat]

Fraizer there could be several reasons for loss of power in low rpm range. The main one is poor switchover between small and large turbo. When car is not running the switchover flap is at rest and is in an OPEN position between small and large turbo. When you start the car the switchover moves to a CLOSED position. This means the flow of exhaust is closed to big turbo but open to small turbo. When you shut down the car and pressure converter is still energized, the switchover flap is kept closed until system is de-energized. You can hear a faint buzzing when energized. There are many reasons why a turbo switchover does not operate correctly. Usually it’s is a vacuum leak. This could be anywhere in the system. System vacuum is 29inHg. Then you can consider a pressure converter replacement.

[@fraizer2600]

@@alphadevyat thank you alot. If i understand at 29mercury depression pomp the bypass flap should be close right ? If yes i will put an andoscope tigny camera where suppse to fit the redb big hose on the by pass and i will pump untli 29mercury and if the flap is closed the conclusion is working and i should look to another point. I am right ? I can do an second test the same but without pump and start the engine i should see this by pass flap totaly close too right ? (I will make an fast start and turn off. Wait you answers before doing that :) thank you again for your great videos they help alot

[@alphadevyat]

Fraizer are you asking about a turbo switchover or compressor bypass. One is exhaust side. One is compressor (air) side.

[@fraizer2600]

@@alphadevyat i am asking about only the bypass flap with his actuator mushroom. You test it on this video :)

[@fraizer2600]

@@alphadevyat is right how i should proceed ? And what you told me is right for the bypass ? :)

[@elduropena9638]

Greetings brother to ask you l did the same test in the video next to the driver and the meter needle didn,t even move. it could be a friend

[@alphadevyat]

Valve has to hold vacuum. Make sure you test in the correct nipple.

[@elduropena9638]

thank friend if l did the teston the wrong line now l did it correcty l turned on the bus and there it was at 29 perfect then l turned off the bus and it did not maintain the vacuum what could be the problem?

[@elduropena9638]

l also tested the EGR valve and it is perfect

[@toxicdrifter8179]

hi man. maybe do you know something about 46D7 error - DDE: Compressor bypass plate, activation? should i check the bypass valve like in one of your videos? or where is this plate?

[@alphadevyat]

When you have activation errors it’s usually electric. Compressor bypass has no sensors or anything to monitor its position. So it has to be either the electric switchover valve itself or it’s connector. Too bad it’s buried quite deep but it’s cheap enough. Make sure you reconnect all your vac lines in the right order.

[@toxicdrifter8179]

@@alphadevyat thank you very much for your answer! i browsed whole internet about bypass on bmws, and its lack of information about it :(

[@alphadevyat]

@@toxicdrifter8179 information is in bmw technical documentation. If you have ISTA you can pull all the details and test plans through that.

[@bm-garage]

When I vacuum tested the system ( drivers side) as you did in the video it went to 29 inches just like how the car in the video is. Then I turned it off and it went to 20-15, and after a few minutes down to five. Is it supposed to hold 20-15 or slowly go down as I described?

[@alphadevyat]

Honestly I’ve never pegged it. There are check valves at vac pump and brake booster. So if your EL valves are tight and pressure converters energized after shutdown you should hold vacuum. Pressure converters are energized a few minutes after shutdown.

[@bm-garage]

@@alphadevyat I’ll definitely need to look I to this, it was strange to me that the vacuum would leak away like that. I already tested the el valve for egr cooler and it’s tight but never the motor mount one. I think that the shop that did the vgc prior to my ownership ( few thousand miles) might’ve pinched the vacuum lines and slowly overtime that they’ve rubbed a hole in the line. My brakes also feel weird, almost as if it has bad control arm bushings which could be possible too. Usually I feel this at lower speeds.

[@alphadevyat]

@@bm-garage sounds like you need to retest the whole system and make sure no leaks or breaks. Pinching a hose is common. As Is misrouting the vacuum lines.

[@bm-garage]

@@alphadevyat I took it to a shop to have it smoke tested. We’ll see what they find, if nothing I’ll ask them to check those check valves, boost pipe, and the intake pipe for leaks if possible.

[@alphadevyat]

@@bm-garage what are your symptoms and codes?

[@user-gm5bg1ke8t]

Hello. Help me please. The bmw e70 35d car goes up to 3000 rpm after it does not go. And errors 0429a, 04530, 04d96. Help me please.

[@alphadevyat]

Assuming you have a stock car. You have two boost deviation codes that are fairly broad and could be many things from turbo control system to boost leaks to exhaust restrictions. That is your 4530 and 429A. However, your 4D96 is a range on the exhaust pressure sensor which is basically an exhaust overpressure code. I could only conclude that you may have several possibilities here. Either your turbo switchover is not functional because of turbo control/vacuum system malfunctions or you have a serious exhaust restriction such as a very plugged DPF. You need to diagnose around these two possibilities. These issues will block the DPF regeneration and as such you need to address them as soon as possible as it will lead to damage of other components.

[@Mr.Andre.H]

how do you get to change the vacuum hose all the way to the wastegate? my wastegate lacks vacuum supply and I think the hose needs replacing.

[@alphadevyat]

The watergate on the M57 bi-turbo that is on the LP turbo?

[@Mr.Andre.H]

@@alphadevyat the other one the hose goes around the passenger side down under the turbos and than it goes up again between the engine and the turbos.

[@alphadevyat]

@@Mr.Andre.H the hose that goes down under the turbos is the vac hose to the wastegate. Wastegate is on the large turbo between the turbo and the block but you can see it from underneath. No hose comes up between the block and the turbo. The wastegate hose reaches up but never comes up at the top as it connects to the wastegate vacuum actuator. Reaching it is hard but not impossible. Some people use long needle nose pliers.

[@Mr.Andre.H]

@@alphadevyat Yes I see the hose from underneath as well but I don't that can be reached by hand, I am afraid if I try to pray it out I might brake the actuator, I will see if I can find a needle nose plier long enough to reach it. thank again, your videos are awesome!!!!

[@alphadevyat]

@@Mr.Andre.H don’t pull on it. Use a small pen like exacto knife to slice the hose along the nipple of the actuator and slide it off. Use silicone grease on the new hose. I use spray. And use long needle nose pliers to slide a new hose on. I use silicone Hoses. FCP Euro sells good ones.

[@gheorghibaliuc5509]

My 2015 x5 3.5d sometimes looses power. Then it appears back on. Check is always on. Could be el valve the issue?

[@alphadevyat]

Very unlikely as N57 only has two EL valves, one for motor mounts control and one for EGR cooler. You gotta pull that error code first and go from there. Could be MAF, or sticky VNT vanes or fueling. Need the code.

[@gheorghibaliuc5509]

@@alphadevyat 244c00 244d00 255d00 257e00 2bbc00

[@gheorghibaliuc5509]

@@alphadevyat it has M57 engine, and i had a code for EGR valve so i have replaced it

[@alphadevyat]

@@gheorghibaliuc5509 I am a bit surprised that a 2015 X5 would have an M57. 2015 is an F15 chassis. As far as I know none of them came with an M57. What are the last 7 digits of your vin?

[@gheorghibaliuc5509]

0F07009

[@danneale2790]

Hi what is the inner diameter of the pipe you have upgraded to is it 4mm or 3mm mate

[@alphadevyat]

They are 3.5mm

[@alphadevyat]

Best ones I find are from FCP Euro, PN 11731259996

[@kucickula]

What can be wrong with waste gate output pressure solenoid . Car when running on output side no pressure at all pressure splenoid is new

[@alphadevyat]

Wastegate or turbo switchover or compressor bypass? Just clarifying. Also, these are vacuum solenoids not pressure. Have you measured the system vacuum? And power to a “solenoid”

[@kucickula]

@@alphadevyat wastegate and i checked with vacuum pump its working . Feed line to vacuum solenoid has vacuum i tested its like 25 but line to wastegate its 0 when car running

[@alphadevyat]

@@kucickula wastegate does not open when car is at idle so it’s absolutely normal for zero vacuum supplied

[@kucickula]

@@alphadevyat so this one is wrong in his video i have same issue kzbin.info/www/bejne/aILSY4eFr6uof6s

[@kucickula]

@@alphadevyat do you knows when its open i mean on what rpm?

[@limweehui4164]

Hi , how to do ( particle filter ) problem🥹

[@alphadevyat]

Please rephrase the question. I do not understand

[@danneale2790]

Hi canni ask u a ? Regards the big can and boost issue

[@alphadevyat]

Hello. Please do.

[@danneale2790]

@@alphadevyat thanks mate i have a issue if i try to use kick down my car starts to boost then pops and bangs due to i believe a over boost i took it to a tuner to look over they say its the big can not holding pressure 5mercury, however wen i pull up after a 5 min drive the arm is fully pulled in to the can and then when i turn car off a few seconds later you can see the arm go to rest position as ur video says but it sounds like its farting is my only way to describe it car runs fine over than this and has plenty of power but cant use all its power if this makes sense 👍

[@alphadevyat]

@@danneale2790 if the arm releases right after shutdown and makes “farting” noises, your turbo switchover pressure converter has gone bad. It’s the second one further back closer to firewall. Arm should stay retracted after shutdown until pressure converter is de-energized.

[@danneale2790]

@@alphadevyat i wouldnt say ut releases straight away id say its poss 10 seconds or so after u turn it off and lock it ? I have been out today brought vac tester i tested the 3 cans and all hold gud pressure the arm wasnt going to the off position fully so i backed the nut off until the arm hit a stop point and then tightened the nuts back up it was about 20mm the arm moved before it bottomed out. I also vac the plastic round thing and that held pressure until it released its self wen car did some electrical click stoke shut down i then did it again and it held pressure are you uk based mate