BMW R80 RT to S Conversion #3 - Forks, Handlebar, Grips & Controls & Steering Head Bearings

[@boxer2valve]

Download your copy of this episode to view anytime and anywhere. We now have Downloads of each episode and the entire series available through our website for a VERY small price! Why pay for a download? Not only does this help ensure you will always have access to this video but it also supports our video team with proceeds for video equipment maintenance and new production gear to help us create additional 2 Valve focused videos. Find the Digital Downloads and Parts Used in this video here: www.boxer2valve.com/bmw-r80-rt-monolever-episode-3.html

[@johnhopkins6260]

many, many, many thanks... cold, crappy weather in Poland finally surrendered... (no heat in the garage).. gettin' the itch...

[@PeterJohnstoncanada]

I'm restoring an R60/6. Thanks to your super slick videos(and available parts) I've done the rear wheel bearings, steering head bearings, fluids, filters, points, diode board, rebuilt the carbs, and new tires. Wrenching on it is almost as fun as riding it...almost ;).

[@GreenG-314]

Just had my R100CS resealed and a head stud fixed by Plamwerks. They fixed some things bodged by the PO and replaced parts as needed from their used parts bikes. Also sorted my unusual DelOrto 40mm carbs. I picked the bike up yesterday and rode 120 miles today. Detailed work and great communication. Somewhat pricey, but you get what you pay for in terms of peace of mind. Plus I get all this youtube content for free! Please support these guys - there aren't that many left.

[@boxer2valve]

Thanks Rob !

[@prebenmikkelsen5898]

I'm a pretty good amateur mechanic myself. But I've learned a lot from your movies. Shown and told so it's easy to understand. Many small good tricks that make it all easier. About our lovely hobby: BMW 2 valve motorcycles :-)

[@boxer2valve]

Hey Preben, Thanks for your comments! You have a Nimbus? Me too.

[@cozydram1]

thanks William and team.......

[@boxster1990]

Another great video in your series, William. Looking forward to what’s next!

[@franktechmaniac7488]

Thank you! Very nice presentation and detailed information. I removed the lower bearing cone exactly like you showed, because it wouldn't come off with a long 2 jaw puller even after selectively heating the cone. Now I have a cracked bearing race as an installation help. However, I'm still missing a simple method to remove the bearing races from the steering head, since the Kukko pulling tool almost costs a fortune.

[@shack7296]

Hand packing bearings brings back fond memories of my dad showing me how as young boy. Great stuff.

[@boxer2valve]

Hey Shack, yeah it works great and is really all that is needed.

[@GarthGoldberg]

Your lower bearing race removal was pretty slick. Use of the cracked race as a driver was also slick. That's very cool Schlegel vise. It must be vintage.

[@boxer2valve]

Hi the vise was a gift from a friend in Germany a few years ago. I believe that it is from the 50's.

[@SW-jh6dm]

As always, excellent!!!! Thanks a lot for all these videos, where you share many tips and knowledge! Priceless

[@genericlaboratories3198]

it's always a pleasure to watch your videos; practical, simple, very well explained with a lot of tips, a big thank you from an Algerian subscriber.

[@boxer2valve]

Its our pleasure, thank you for watching!

[@lalu-breizh8529]

Merci beaucoup pour tous ces commentaires et explications, c'est clair, simple et pédagogique. Bravo

[@boxer2valve]

Merci d'avoir pris le temps de partager vos réflexions!

[@simoncrooks7441]

Thanks for the grate, very informative videos. keep those cameras rolling

[@binghugh]

William. I watched just about every video you posted. Like going to night school. I bet there are a lot of people wish you can do a begin to finish on a /2 model.

[@mikemcallister757]

As always, great videos! They are very inspiring to work on our own bikes and know where to get the right parts we need to do the job. Thank you! Looking forward to the next videos.

[@boxer2valve]

Thanks Mike! We should have another video ready on Friday!

[@davidrooney8062]

What a welt of knowledge so glad your passing it on, love your channel.

[@boxer2valve]

Glad you enjoy it!

[@marcgordon2416]

Great video, that shows of you have the tools you can do a lot repear. One thing, of i turn on the nuts from the rear weel, i puch the gearbox in his 3 gear, so the weel dont turn. Wel done fore the rest of it.

[@GarthGoldberg]

Got to say I learned a couple of tricks, even though I've been doing this for over twenty years.

[@johnhopkins6260]

Ever put a para/mono front fork on a "2-valve" (i.e. '83 R80) gain the fork brace and heavier fork tubes feature... (R80 is dual disk)

[@frankmummolo7727]

Love all your videos, William. Hope you can do one on rebuilding and adjusting Dell’orto carbs on an R 90S someday. Thanks!

[@boxer2valve]

Hi Frank. Thank very much. We might do that someday! Thanks for the interest.

[@baden-baden]

Great Channel....keep doing very good job...LOVE IT!!!

[@samirsam4724]

Merci Monsieur great video

[@GarthGoldberg]

The Kukko counter-holder support (you call it "bridge") is 22/2. You should put high pressure (moly) grease on the forcing screw (to prevent wear), although it doesn't take extraordinary pressure to remove steering bearings. A dab of the LM47 would be good. The BMW tool catalog showed a "support ring" that is supposed to protect the paint on the frame and provide more purchase for the counter-support. I've never seen one in use or otherwise.

[@boxer2valve]

Thats a great point! The threads of the tool should be lubricated with grease and LM47 is a good coice.

[@GarthGoldberg]

I've used Sharpie to mark fork tubes. It comes off easily if you're not careful. I'd suggest using a paint marker.

[@boxer2valve]

That's a good point. A more permanent marking can be applied at time of removal or also later when cleaning the parts. A marker can definitely get wiped off if you're not careful.

[@GarthGoldberg]

LM47 is a high-moly CV axle grease. I imagine that other, similar CV joint grease would also work.

[@boxer2valve]

Yes, you are probably correct. There are many good greases available. Liqui Moly is simply the brand that we carry and have experience with.

[@GarthGoldberg]

Don't forget about the tiny "perch wedge" inside the control units. It's ten bucks if you lose it!

[@boxer2valve]

Yes indeed! Forgot to mention that! Luckily they are both still there!

[@stevie5141]

Hi there. I have question please.. I removed the nuts so I could take the fork springs out, like in this video, but just the nuts came of not the inner bit if that makes sense. It has a large 17mm allen key inner piece were the oil goes. And the right hand side thread piece just keeps turning and it won’t come out but it’s on a thread.. it pushes up and down on the springs but how do I remove to take springs out? Hope this makes sense.

[@memodatroll]

Have you ever worked with Dick Sullivan?

[@axelzanelli6475]

I am converting my 1985 RT to a café racer style. I have done the wheel bearings, steering head bearings, swingarm bearings, new clutch , pressure plate. rebuilt front calipers. new rear brakes, new tires, ,powder coated frame, fork sliders and wheels and new brake lines. Rebuilding the forks but currently waiting for a new fork tube. Hope to see you rebuild the forks on this project before I get to that point. Also anxious to see what styling changes you make. Thanks for the great videos!

[@gregmacfarlane8544]

I am also rebuilding my forks currently stripped on the bench just need to order all the parts, I wish we had a boxer2valve in the uk

[@boxer2valve]

Thank you! We do ship to the UK! www.boxer2valve.com

[@boxer2valve]

We just finished the video on rebuilding the front forks and should be on KZbin this Friday!

[@GarthGoldberg]

Those late model handlebar clamps are ugly. You need to find some earlier ones. Edit: I see you mention changing them. Those buggered up fork cap nuts can be blamed on the usual suspect, the PO.

[@boxer2valve]

I ended up using the originals and attaching them with 70mm and 85mm allen bolts. If I wasn't using a dash pad, early version clamps would have been better.