BMW R90/6 #5 : Clutch Installation

[@boxer2valve]

Download your copy of this episode to view anytime and anywhere. We now have Downloads of each episode and the entire series available through our website for a VERY small price! Why pay for a download? Not only does this help ensure you will always have access to this video but it also supports our video team with proceeds for video equipment maintenance and new production gear to help us create additional 2 Valve focused videos. Find the Digital Downloads and Parts Used in this video here: www.boxer2valve.com/r906-5-clutch-installation.html

[@mschmitz57]

These are great videos. I just picked up a nice old low mileage R90/6 and will be performing most of these tasks.

[@marshallhammond1099]

You are a gifted teacher.

[@hotchihuahua1546]

I’m coming up to see you guys soon to drop off my transmission on my 75 R90/6 for the the upgrades . Look forward to meeting y’all , your site and videos are top notch !

[@boxer2valve]

Sounds good!

[@federicohigueras1982]

THANKS for the video!!!! VERY USEFUL AND CLEAR. I was able to regulate the clutch cable of my BMW R45 watching your video.

[@boxer2valve]

Great to hear!

[@chadstrohmayer541]

You are by far a great instructor and your videos are not only comprehensive, they are concise & to the point. Very well done. Camera coverage needs to include more & better close ups. Otherwise, great job. Keep up the good work so we can keep our beloved Airheads on the road!

[@aidanbutler58]

Great Videos! Thank you for taking the time. Will become a customer!

[@michaelcomerford5509]

Great vidios really helpfull much better then keep looking at manual , keep up the great work . Regaurds Michael

[@meilaushi]

Excellent videos of this series!

[@richardmicklethwaite2172]

Hello William, I love your videos. I have just changed the flywheel on a friend's R75/6 so have revisited all this work. Much as I like your bush to install the felt seal on the clutch pushrod I have found that if you install the pushrod from the front with the felt seal in place you can guide the seal in without any problem. The clutch operating arm pivot and its clip are always a worry and they can be replaced by a M8 x 70mm stainless bolt and nyloc nut. The 70mm will need trimming by about 10mm but means that there are no threads on the part where the operating arm turns . Best wishes Richard Micklethwaite

[@boxer2valve]

Hi, Those are some great tips! Thanks for sharing!

[@georgenyktas2191]

This video is very well done and very useful. The only problem I noted was when his hand blocked the area he was working on.

[@fingerflab7010]

I don't agree with the spline lubing methods used here. A thick pasty, sticky moly grease like Guard Dog Moly 525 is more effective and will not fling off. Secondly you never lube the clutch plate splines; only the transmission input spline shaft. Any grease you put into the clutch plate splines is going to be pushed forward and out when you install the gearbox and that grease will be flung right into the clutch disc area which will foul and ruin the disc. Other that that, this video series is great stuff!

[@Nimbusbiker]

We are just getting started and we will be doing our best to improve these technical issues! Thanks for your comments.

[@richardsalsman1069]

Great series of videos it would have been great to have these when I was doing all this work on my 3 airheads. Still picking up some good tips for the next time I have to go in and do some repairs or maintenance.

[@Nimbusbiker]

Thanks Richard! If you have any questions, give us a call!

[@shingerz]

Great stuff

[@eduki]

Awesome videos and work!!

[@llesworkram]

fantastic video. I have a 75 r90/6 that i am going to restore in the next year.

[@Nimbusbiker]

Cool! If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to call us! We are happy to assist in any way possible.

[@gregwolodkin4524]

Thank you for putting together these comprehensive videos! I was hoping you were going to replace the output seal on the gearbox on this bike, mostly because my new-to-me 1978 R80/7 had fluid under pressure in it when I drained the fluids recently. I'm on the fence between a) just putting the proper amount of oil in all three holes and running it for a while to see what''s migrating to where vs. b) just going through the final drive, the drive shaft, and the gearbox now in the off-season. Leaning towards option a) for now but looking forward to going through the whole bike over the next year or so. Before I do anything else I'll check the hollow bolt that vents the gearbox, but if you have any thoughts on other next steps I'm all ears! Also psyched because I think the reprinted shop manual that I ordered from you last week should arrive before the day is out! Thanks again!

[@boxer2valve]

Greg: It's a good idea to drain and refill the gearbox, swingarm and final drive with the correct quantities and ride for a couple hundred miles, then drain into some sort of graduated containers to see if a different quantity comes out. That will tell you a lot about what needs to be done, if anything. Definitely a good first step and place to start. Hope that you enjoy the manual!

[@gregwolodkin4524]

Thanks! That sounds like a solid plan. I did also find the speedo bolt/transmission vent completely plugged, so that helps to explain what's going on. Hopefully that will solve the problem but I'll confirm once I get a few hundred miles on the bike. At this point in New England that might not be until Spring :(

[@richardmicklethwaite2172]

Thanks for your great video(s). I've been working on these bikes for over 40 years but you've shown me new stuff! But your 202mm setting for the clutch operating arm doesn't work for me - at least not on a part worn clutch. Doesn't it depend on both the amount of free play in the cable - not all are identical depending on supplier - and the amount of wear on the clutch plate and other parts? I think you have to set it up with regard to the point of contact of the operating arm at the gearbox - some manuals say the operating lever should be parallel to the gearbox cover at the halfway point on the handlebar lever.Please keep them coming.

[@paultavilla859]

Thanks for great encouragement, instruction and tips for doing my own work. Can you give dimensions of bushing you made to easily install felt in release assembly? I love the way your parts are shipped with each part labeled with description. Great for ordering parts ahead of time for my numerous airhead projects.

[@boxer2valve]

Hello Paul. The bushing has an inside diameter of 8mm and it should be 25mm long or longer.

[@chrisdvorak5480]

@@boxer2valve Is a inside diameter of 8,5 mm also suitable?

[@59jaguar]

What causes the clunking sound in the shifting of gears on these airheads? Did you put a lightened fly wheel in this project?

[@axelzanelli6475]

GREAT VIDEO! I am rebuilding my RS as a café racer and will be replacing rear main seal /oil pump o-ring, trans input and output seals, rebuilt forks, swing arm and steering head bearings and complete clutch with your video help and parts. Would like to have seen transmission output seal replacement when you did the input seal. Any special tips or advice on that? Thanks again for you help

[@boxer2valve]

You'll need to remove the output flange. This requires a special puller. Usually there is no need to replace that seal unless the gearbox is opened up.

[@axelzanelli6475]

Thank you very much. I really appreciate the fine videos and look forward to new ones. Congratulations on your move!@@boxer2valve

[@nancymccloskey6013]

having oil seeping thru brake cam on my 1982 r65 BMW took out the brake cam started bike ran it in gear oil definitely gear oil coming out. Any advice?

[@JanWagner77]

Nice video. But: Using grease on the clutch? I prefer to work with ceramic paste.

[@boxer2valve]

It's been working well for us, but great suggestion. Do you have a certain brand that you use?

[@JanWagner77]

@@boxer2valve Yes, Liqui Moly. But I think you can use every other brand. By the way. A more flexible handheld cam would be a great addition to the fixed cams when it comes to details. But this is critic on high levels. Great work. Love your videos!

[@LpJr61]

hi, thanks for the video, really usefull... one question, don't you deal with the heavy sides of the clutch parts? i did as you showed but i got a bad vibration at 2500 rpm

[@boxer2valve]

The balancing act is not very scientific and that can happen. you can try taking it all apart again but other than that, run the motor at 3K plus...

[@claudelependu5240]

Video really helps with the details. But, R65 1980 5 speed transmission is presently off the bike. When I rotate the output shaft, where it connects to the universal connector and drive shaft, it is nice and smooth in Neutral. However in any other gear, there is little over a 1/4 inch slack when rotated either way by hand. Sounds like a common problem for all gears. Help, can this be repaired. Thanks

[@boxer2valve]

That may not be a problem. The shift dogs, where the gears essentially connect, engage in a slot, which is longer than the dog so you can feel some movement as you are describing.

[@timothyswartz5292]

I put my pivot pin cir-clip on the top side :(

[@terrybridgwater1079]

Clymer manual suggests putting the pin in the same way as you.

[@21scottymac]

Overall the videos are really helpful William. But this one isn't good enough. Not enough close ups. Bushing bit for example. What allen key size was cut down. It's like you guys hurried through this. Which is disappointing as I purchased the downloads and I'll be frustrated looking at your arm in the close ups instead of seeing what you're doing.

[@jamesmcmillan9296]

4

[@jamesmcmillan9296]

44

[@jamesmcmillan9296]

44444