BMW- Replacing diff input flange seal

[@tamas467]

Thanks for the video!!! I've got two question: you used 'medium' loctite? And what kind of grease you used for the nut, I read about the best for this is the castrol optitemp ht 1lf (bmw recommended), but I can't buy this type. Maybe there are some another grease instead of castrol? Thanks for the help!!!

[@coopercarguy]

Yeah, I use the blue med Loctite on the 12 point set nut, as for grease, any high temp grease should be fine.

[@tamas467]

@coopercarguy Many thanks!!! High temperature but I think not the graphite base, rather the lithium?

[@coopercarguy]

@@tamas467 this is what I use, bmw ht 1 LF grease. its dark color.

[@tamas467]

@@coopercarguy Thank you!!!

[@firstreview8171]

what’s the symptoms of these flange lock nut being loose ?

[@mariomontanamuro4474]

Oil level check or directly a replacement? Nice work!

[@coopercarguy]

Replacing the input shaft seal on the differential

[@mariomontanamuro4474]

Thanks! But, my question goes, if after this removal, do you check the oil level of the system or maybe, even better, replace the oil completely? BR.

[@coopercarguy]

@mariomontanamuro4474 oh my bad, these diffs actually don’t have a drain plug. You can add fluid to the point where it starts to drain out of the fill plug. Really no reason the replace the fluid unless it high mileage.

[@Paul-bl2dk]

Hi, how much roughly would it cost to do the job at a mechanic?

[@coopercarguy]

Depends on the shop rate ($150-300 a hr) you’re looking at probably $800-1200

[@arminbilali1133]

Is it bad if you don't install the rubber seal?

[@coopercarguy]

Probably not that big of a deal, just keeps dust out of the splines on the input flange. If you forgot to install it, I’d probably pull the blue ring off, cut the seal in one spot so you’re able to install it, that would be better than not having it.

[@arminbilali1133]

@@coopercarguy okay thx

[@Serock2k6]

Some do the rubber seal into the nut and others let them out like you. What's the right way ?

[@coopercarguy]

Hi, I’m not sure what you’re asking.

[@Serock2k6]

@@coopercarguy hey cooper. The Nut which is holding the driveshaft has a rubber seal with the blue clip right? Some people are stuffing the rubber seal inside the "bigger" nut (from the diff) below it, inside it. You have just put the blue clip over the seal without stuffing it in :). Which is the right way ?

[@coopercarguy]

@@Serock2k6 correct, that seal isnt the seal for the input flange though. the nut goes first, then the gasket on the nut in the groove, then the blue cover/clip.

[@Serock2k6]

@@coopercarguy ok nice thank you! So the stuffing the into the bigger nut is wrong.

[@tomisz25]

I have slight play on this shaft and vibrations at 120 km/h. Is it safe to tighten it slightly? Few mils.

[@coopercarguy]

I would not tighten the input nut anymore than it supposed to be. If you tighten it more it will change your backlash/wear pattern and ruin the diff.

[@ShowMeWhatINeedToKnow]

Nice work!

[@coopercarguy]

Thanks!

[@welli1997]

Thanks man!!

[@coopercarguy]

No problem!

[@thehan_GT7]

Perfectly video for input flange seal 👍

[@coopercarguy]

Cool, one thing I didn’t do in this video is mark the set nut/input flange. Make sure you do that, that nut is was sets the backlash on the diff

[@EGMuy]

@@coopercarguy what do you mean ? right you marked it and then when tightening it was up to the marks! What also needs to be marked and how?

[@coopercarguy]

@@EGMuy yes correct. The flange and input spline needs to be marked with a scribe. You can try paint/marker but it gets wiped away when you do the job.

[@EGMuy]

@@coopercarguy but in the video you marked it (but in your comment above you say you didn't)

[@EGMuy]

Great job! Btw👏🏻