Boat Restoration| Inspecting transom and cutting stringers

On this episode, the rear section of the stringers are removed on the starboard side to see if transom is rotten. I also discuss future plans and what the ideas are for replacing parts of the boat. Thank you for watching. Check out Instagram, Facebook for more content!
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[@chadriddle1085]

Im a little late to the party but i really enjoy the content. I have restored some old ski boats and i feel your pain with every new discovery of rot. Having done this myself I know the level of commitment required and i commend you for going all the way and not giving up. Keep it up and cant wait to see the finished product.

[@nanakofiaddo8478]

You now a professional boat repair man.. kudos

[@LindellAdventures]

Still lots to learn! I appreciate that! Have a good one.

[@kevinh4200]

A great way to start my Sunday morning...thanks for bringing us along. Always look forward to your videos

[@LindellAdventures]

Thank you! Honestly, it really helps motivate me on this project!

[@douglaswoodard3412]

just a quick note going from a inboard to dual outboards you'll have to reinforce the transom to start with i believe and now you can fill the hole and reshape the trans to what you need for the boat love what in seeing and looking forward to the finish

[@LindellAdventures]

It will be 3 inches with 1/4 glass on each side too! Plenty thick for a bracket and 300 👍 it will also have a bracket on the inside to distribute the weight

[@HoldFast-un2fc]

The same way I like to do things is to do it right first time and is the reason most people did not like working for me because I believed in this method so no back tracking to do go back and fix it. Here is a tip for you and I see some people do this is don't let your tape measure snap back it wears out the rivet holes and ends up giving you an inaccurate reading later on in the middle of your project if you want to be precise.

[@LindellAdventures]

Thanks for sharing!!

[@johnyporchswing3413]

Enjoying the journey. Your doing it right. Cheers from Pittsburgh 🍻

[@LindellAdventures]

Thank you! Have a good Sunday!

[@carvalhog.144]

Another fantastic video. You are an excellent professional, and I send you my congratulations for your competence and willpower. Respectful greetings from the City of Touros - Rio Grande do Norte - Brazil. GOD bless you and your Family.

[@LindellAdventures]

Thank you for following along! Hope you enjoy!

[@nena4215]

Yeah, we had some rain like that on the boat Friday night! I’m so sorry about all the rot but you know what you’re in for, can’t be too safe on the water, lives depend on it. OMG, you’re laying down some cash to be sure and you are absolutely right. We do all the work on our boats too because we want to know it’s safe and done right and if we have to repair or replace, no problem....except, jeeze, damnit! Thanks for the episode

[@LindellAdventures]

Haha you got that right! We all know what BOAT stands for! Bank Out Another Thousand!

[@ryanparsons8977]

Keep going! Can’t wait to see some salmon and halibut putting stains on your fresh paint!!

[@LindellAdventures]

Seriously! Don't remind me! It's killing me waiting haha!

[@mguerrero13085]

I would suggest using a diamond blade disk with a grinder for those larger cuts! Keep up the good work. It will be worth it when u make it to the water!

[@LindellAdventures]

I got some in order for the next part of the stringers! Thank you, I sure hope so!

[@mikewhitman830]

Good choice on materials. It'll save you $$ in the end. On the boat flexing, as long as you leave the outside of the transom, the shape won't change. Just clean well/scuff and the new resin will stick just fine. I'm sure you already know but Total Boat will have all you need. Learn to mix your own fillet material is waaaaay cheaper than buying the tubed stuff. Looking good so far!

[@LindellAdventures]

Thank you for the info! I wanted to cut everything at once but like you said, once the transom is gone there isn’t a lot holding it. Thank you for watching!

[@Ultrawong100]

Wow that is a real tear down. Watching from Scottish Highlands. Shame the transome is shot but I guess if anywhere needs to be strong, its the panel that pushes the boat. Especially if you plan on using outboards. Have you ever watch sail life on YT. different kind of boat but a massive library of boat repair fibre glass techniques all be in on a sail boat. Highly recommend it. Keep up the great work.

[@LindellAdventures]

Welcome! I was thinking I would replace it anyways since it will have so much weight off the back but I just wish the boat was in better shape... oh well! More learning from the repairs needed! I have seen a few videos and I think every Boat Works Today videos haha. Hope all is well in your part of the world!

[@chrisengart4371]

Cheers from Philly...great work so far bro keep doing what your doing

[@LindellAdventures]

Thanks Chris! Hope you’re doing good!

[@martinezbonhumberto7061]

Quiero felicitarte por la gran labor que has hecho con ese bote! Es admirable! Esperando verlo terminado, el antes y despues! Saludos!!

[@LindellAdventures]

I appreciate that! I am excited to see what it turns out like!

[@josephkumor5452]

Another great video, keeps me motivated.

[@LindellAdventures]

Glad you’re enjoying it so far! Lots more coming!

[@gp205]

Loving the project so far. Looking forward to future videos! Keep up the good work.

[@LindellAdventures]

Thank you! It truly means a lot!

[@chugaaa]

Well rotten was an understatement, good thing you have the knowledge and right attitude about it...are you going back to i/o or outboard with a bracket? If it is the second option remember to double reinforce the lower part of the transom where the bracket connects. Final note, I always do white board planning, no more than 10 task at a time, this keeps me focused and chronologically organized it might help you from this point on because you are entering that part of the project when things multiply exponentially. Good job Austin 👊🏻

[@LindellAdventures]

I got a pretty big list on my phone with details and numbers of quotes for everything I see myself putting into the project. Also the ideas and tasks needed along with tools. I plan on going to an offshore bracket with a 300 Suzuki on the back with a 9.9 kicker. The transom will be around 3.5 inches thick and glassed to the stringers and aluminum bracket on the transom inside where the bracket will be! I would rather over do it than anything! Thanks for the support!

[@saltyhooker5785]

@@LindellAdventures I am currently building an I/O to outboard conversion and also running a zuke 300. Im further along than you are and this was my layup schedule for transom and stringers. Stringers were 1.5" coosa. My boat is designed quite a bit different than yours so 1.5" was required. My transom is 1.5" coosa and 3/4" laminated together. Overall thickness with glass is just over 3" thick. Your plan for 3 sheets of 1" isn't necessary for strength. I'm replacing another transom right now and it is 3 layers of 3/4" coosa laminated together. If you ever want pictures or advice let me know and I'll help where I can. Great videos man I'm enjoying the build. My biggest advice is never look for the finish line, just keep plugging away. It's going to cost more and take longer than you think so don't set deadlines.

[@ELCADAROSA]

Going with the Coosa board is definitely going to set you back a bit, financially. But I also understand your motivations. Keep up the great work! Looking forward to seeing further progress!

[@LindellAdventures]

I’m already planning on asking how much I can get for my kidney haha! Thanks for following along!

[@datbalddude9037]

That looked like a lot of hard work. I got tired just watching lol. I hope you get to spend a lot of time enjoying the boat when u finish

[@LindellAdventures]

It is a ton of work but that way I feel like I earned it! Haha. Thanks for following along! Next video will be up tomorrow!

[@douglasthompson2740]

I have close to twenty angle grinders of all makes and I have to say that for what you are doing one of Harbor Freights 25 dollar units will most likely complete that job and several more. They sound like crap with bushings instead of bearings but I have had two or three of them for more than ten years in my metal shop as well as wood sanding and they are still chugging along. Some of the big name brands are built little better at four times the price!

[@LindellAdventures]

I have a couple too, just not the correct blades just yet for them. I will order some ASAP for other jobs. Thanks for the info!

[@kyleb293]

Love the content! Maybe do more of a time lapse on some of the cutting. Just an idea. Otherwise good stuff!

[@LindellAdventures]

Good idea! There’s been some people say they like the noise more of the tools and when I time lapse I’d put music in but some don’t like music haha. I will try it in the next video! Thank you for the input!

[@noname-nd8ec]

Interested to see how you go about replacing the stringers, never seen it done before.

[@LindellAdventures]

It will be a task for sure! Even more so since the longest coosa board I have found is 8 feet in length. I plan on stitching them together with a long taper the distance of the stringers so we shall see!

[@WalterWhite-1957]

Hey Austin, you sound like a good old North Carolina boy 🤔 love your video's

[@LindellAdventures]

I wish haha I’m up in Washington State, not Seattle haha thanks for the support!

[@rabid_monkey8714]

I'm really enjoying watching your videos. You have the same attitude I do of, "I'm already gutting the thing, I might as well go all the way and do it right." Good thinking on the coosa board. Were you going with 3-ply for added strength? You could probably do a 1.5" 2-ply and not lose much in the way of shear and gain a bit in compressive strength. If I might offer a couple of tips for future demolition? Instead of using the hammer to break up the foam, use a bread knife. They're flexible enough to conform to the edge of the hull and will allow you to cut out nice big cubes of material that are easier to clean up afterwards even if you have to break off the bottom ends. You might also want to use a circular saw with the depth of cut set to go partway through the stringers. This will give you a place to set the claws of a hammer or demo tool without having to worry about a hard swing hitting fiberglass you don't want to puncture as well as make splitting the rest of the board easier.

[@LindellAdventures]

I've used a few different methods for removing the foam but as far as disposing of it, it is easier to have it in smaller pieces and easier to pick up. I use a prybar between the glass and the foam and it wants to come up with very little work. The wood was so rotten I could go straight into the wood no problem but I like your idea! The oscillating tool is a must have for this project and makes the job a lot easier! Thanks for watching!

[@richardsims1805]

On my old 1971 Fiberform express cruiser, I had to replace port and starboard stringers as well. Not fun.

[@LindellAdventures]

I’m looking forward to the Coosa stringers and hopefully it won’t be too big of a pain!

[@douglasthompson2740]

An angle grinder with a (HF makes a good cheap one) diamond cutting wheel makes much faster work of the cutting and the diamond wheel doesn't make near the dust that a regular cutting wheel does.

[@LindellAdventures]

I agree! The oscillating tool is what I have for now and plan on getting that for the full stringer removal! Thanks!

[@user-ez6hw1yx5d]

He important information on the boat repair

[@coachman290651]

hi if your have thoughts about hull changing shape you can timber frame gunwale on inside and screw thur outta hull back in timber this i found holes hull sharp better while you remove/replace stringers and such and end up with few screw holes to patch i love your outlook if ya doing do it right the 1st time

[@LindellAdventures]

I’ve thought about that too! I was thinking this way I can still work on other parts of the boat and trailer if I am waiting on material. I will keep that idea in mind when it comes time for the stringers! Thank you!

[@WhiteCavendish]

TFW you break through the fibreglass and black dust pours out. Ouch.

[@LindellAdventures]

Yeah, I already thought it was rotten but that just confirmed it!

[@paulnielsen5200]

Great project, doing it right. This is going to be very nice, light and efficient. What year is your 24? From Tumwater

[@LindellAdventures]

Thank you! It’s a 1989 26’ Olympic XL! Great to have you!

[@jimlundgren9536]

Thanks for the video. Two questions, have you determined how the water got into the transom? And is there anything in the outdrive hardware that limits how thick the transom can be? Keep up the good work!

[@LindellAdventures]

I am going to fill the hole and put an offshore bracket with an outboard on it! The boat looked to have been sitting in the water for a while (anti fouling paint) and there were screw holes with no sealer in the holes. Also the boat was sitting outside for a long time too! I haven’t found any cracks or anything of that sort yet!

[@joshuacross3776]

are you going to keep the design of the rear of the cabin the same? or are you thinking about changing things around?

[@LindellAdventures]

I’ll be keeping the design pretty similar but may change the window design and replace it with a composite material. Plans change though!

[@paulgilson9876]

Are you putting 2 outboards on it

[@LindellAdventures]

The plan is to put an offshore bracket and a 300 Suzuki!

[@billymiller1319]

When you have to replace the stringers could you not use carbon fibre instead of wood. Regards from Billy in South Africa

[@LindellAdventures]

Thanks for the question! I’ll be using Coosa board and tabbing in place of the wood which will hold no moisture! It will be expensive but worth it!

[@2xgold84]

Are you related to the ocean sport Lindell's?

[@LindellAdventures]

Jim Lindell is the owner of Lindell Yachts and partner, but there is relation between us of some sort I am told but not close haha.

[@Pooya-kyani]

😱Would it be better to change the whole boat? All the work had to be done.🤪

[@DC_DC_DC_DC]

I just don't get how so much actual liquid water can collect inside those areas... I would think the screw holes just slowly allow a growing circle of wood to rot away but the boat is collecting water like a moisture trap or something....

[@LindellAdventures]

I’m thinking the wood has absorbed so much water and been sitting in water all this time. Now that I’m pulling things apart it’s releasing what’s been soaked up into the wood. Not much left to remove that holds moisture anymore!

[@douglasthompson2740]

It would be easier with your multitool to use a semicircular blade. Don't spend so much time positioning the blade while cutting to keep the teeth engaged/

[@LindellAdventures]

It seems to cut better when there is less surface when cutting the glass for me. I’ve found it like a chop saw doesn’t cut very good when plunge cutting, just my two cents!

[@douglasthompson2740]

@@LindellAdventures I have found the shape is geared to the kind of cutting but a good blade of bimetal is most important in all instances. When I first got mine many years ago it stayed in the case for several years and I swore it couldn't cut crap. Then I used a good bi-metal blade and voila' it is now a go to tool that I use all the time.

[@LindellAdventures]

I have the titanium blades and they work really good, I don't push too hard either. I have a couple bi metal blades but the titanium works better for cutting the tabbing and thick glass for me.