Different Types Of Fiberglass Repair

*** CHECK OUT OUR NEW FIBERGLASS GUIDE HERE: tinyurl.com/ycyaffxq
This second video outlines the different types of fiberglass repairs needed to prep a surface before Awlgrip painting and applying a non-skid texture. Small holes, larger holes, chips and voids are covered in detail using West System Epoxy. Next video will cover stress cracks.
Visit our website www.boatworkstoday.com for more information!

[@brucelance9766]

This is THE BEST fiberglass repair instruction on the Web! He quickly explains the "Where", "Why", "What" and "How". His productions have vastly improved from his first videos....this is very well done and very helpful....thanks Boatworks guy!

[@andrewernst3884]

This is by far the best fiberglass repair video I have ever seen

[@tdfbassin8067]

Bob Ross of Fiberglass right there!

[@boatworkstoday]

Here's how I compare the two: Bondo: Not 100% waterproof, relatively low bonding strength to it's substrate, very short working time (1-2 minutes per batch) can only be mixed in small amounts and is more porous than epoxy. Epoxy w/410 Filler: It's 100% waterproof, very high bonding strength, working time can be up to 30+ minutes with the appropriate hardener allowing much larger batches to be mixed, gives a non-porous finish and is able to be used in lower air temperatures. Hope this helps!

[@eyesyc]

Absolutely helps. These videos are great and thorough. Thanks

[@scopex2749]

This guy needs a show on the DISCOVERY CHANNEL! I have just bought a Mahogany 60,s twin engine cruiser and she has ALL this to do! I think MANY of us owe this guy a beer each!

[@deusjevoke]

I am taking so much notes. I am currently restauring the cutest 1964 fiberglass RV and this is so incredibly helpful. Not only all the steps, but the additional info about curing, heat, glass fibre... incredibly useful. Thank you so much! Love from Belgium.

[@PaulSmithMusicMD]

I love this guy! He presents not only how, but why you do what you do to repair. Very good information and plus it's presented in a logical and understandable way. Thank you for this!

[@anthonyrizzo8802]

Wow!

[@benstenson3578]

You couldn't have said it any better

[@SoutheastBluesMan]

You're a true craftsman and a pleasure to watch. You have no idea what these videos mean to us DIYers. Many thanks

[@chrish2996]

Hi Andy. This video has over 1 million views. Cant wait to see you at work in the new shop and back to the Bertram. You are a Legend 🙌

[@murraykennedy6019]

I've had problems with permanent markers bleeding through the finished paint surface months after the finished job, even after washing with lacquer thinner and acetone, I only use pencil now and have never had any issues. Having to repaint a Multi- stage pearl white job was a good lesson on not using permanent markers!

[@boatworkstoday]

Good deal; the next vid is going to cover stress cracks and working with poly resin. Was hoping to have it up today, but looks like it will be closer to the end of the week (warm weather has forced my Spring rush a month early getting boats ready to launch; busy busy...) It will be up very soon :-) Thanks for the comment!

[@MatthewHoelscher]

Andy I watched all your videos, purchased some West Systems 105 Fiberglass repair kit and fixed the halyard cleat and pulley that pulled out of the fiberglass deck of my 1979 Sunfish. Thank you for the instruction and confidence to do it myself.

[@llaracuente]

Great video, it’s very informative and you explain it so well! A small tip for when you have tight rounded edges: at 17 min into the video you can make different sized sanding blocks by winding printing paper tightly in small tubes and tape it with duct tape. Make sure you use enough paper so that it is rigid enough to sand with. You can pre-make different sizes and add them to your tool box! Thanks again!

[@karlozmalachi6964]

I hit the jackpot motherload when I found your channel. OMG... Great content. Great teacher.... Thank you...

[@florinatorina1356]

Andy, that is just what I need. 😀👍 I bought a Spirit 28 and it needs exactly every kind of fiberglas repair you explain, not many, but still a hole here and a spidercrack there. Your explanations are very detailed and easy to understand. Thank you 🏅🤗

[@davidbradley3074]

Thanks for producing this training episode, you the man!

[@boatworkstoday]

;-) Let me know if you have any Q's! Good luck

[@boatworkstoday]

The next video is called Fiberglass Repair ~ Stress Cracks Also, If you go to my YT homepage and click on Playlists there will be a group of videos called Fiberglass Repair and Awlgrip Paint Project.. That will contain all the videos for that project.

[@boatworkstoday]

:-) Depending on location, yes! Feel free to post a pic or two on my Facebook page and I'll be able to give more detail...

[@1972mdc]

Love the detail! In talking with West Systems they promote the wedding cake vs inverse wedding cake style of glass layers. Their book also recommends that and what I saw you do was the inverted cake (smallest first, then next size, until the largest is last). From a shape perspective it makes sense but they said "because if you add one too many pieces you would have to grind into your largest piece which is the strongest"

[@amoebaart]

That is smart, but I think the approach also depends on the shape, position and size of the problem you are fixing.

[@chuckdilmore2040]

you are The Master. (and a great Teacher!)

[@spudpud-T67]

6:50 You can buy a chopped fiber that is compatible with epoxy. It uses a different bonder: powder and works as well with epoxy as polyester does with the chopped mat you have in this video.

[@bellissimo5671]

Thank you sir! Just venturing into the mold making/repair world and you do an excellent presentation! Godspeed!

[@mattyyg]

I'd like to register a complaint, your videos are far to interesting and informative and I've learned too much today. ;-) Good stuff, I was actually looking for some tips on doing some small repairs on my Hobie 16 hulls and I can't believe all the useful info in your shows. Keep up the good work and thanks!

[@jamukas1]

Great video very well presented and awesome handy information, thank you!

[@billregan1981]

Great video series! You're giving me tons of confidence (maybe too much), to tackle some soft deck spots on my 22' sailboat!

[@benstenson3578]

Your content is seriously amazing.. you're super informative, and you make your videos entertaining to watch. I am astonished at how well these videos are made, and how much great info is in them.

[@BariMusawwir]

thank you so much very informative I have been watching clip after clip for an entire day and only this one quenched my thirst for the information great work

[@eag725]

yes, this guy is excellent. Very professional and clear.

[@JasonDouglasMedia]

this winter im going to be undertaking a small 14 foot runabout reno and all your advice is really helpful, thanks eh!

[@patches224]

Great video! I am Patrick Cunningham, NTL Sales MGR for CASS POLYMERS INC, the maker of the ADTECH P-14. We proud of our entire polyester line and we also make all the products that you demonstrated with the epoxy products. Our general purpose epoxy is called PROBUILD. We offer four different hardeners depending on how much working time that you want. Our polyesters are the best on the market, least moisture absorption, easy sanding. Thanks!

[@notwaitingtolive]

Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience!

[@AdvancedTacticalHSV]

Excellent Video. Nice to see there are still people that actually know how to do something. Good job.

[@johnnydeutschemark3620]

Your information is as important as the epoxy-material itself.

[@boatworkstoday]

@SebastianDeBeer Hmmm. I think you'd still need to have some type of coating over the flow coat for UV protection. Paint would be my first choice, if you would be using a polyester based product for the top coat (gelcoat), then the repairs would need to be done with polyester resin and glass rather than epoxy as shown in the video. I used epoxy only because I knew I was going to be painting. Thanks for the comment!

[@boatman222345]

As always a highly detailed, thoroughly explained repair video. As they say, the devil is in the details, and so many other sites tend to leave out what this fellow puts in. Excellent info delivered in a personable easily understood style. Five thumbs up!

[@boatworkstoday]

More than likely they are just minor stress cracks which are fairly common; yes they will most likely print through the new bottom paint. A quick Q: are the cracks somewhat grouped in a pattern or randomly scattered throughout the hull? I'd tap the areas lightly with a hammer to see if there is a sound difference. Let me know what you find out :-)

[@boatworkstoday]

Thanks Louis! I think you just made my day :-)

[@LJ-gn2un]

Very informative, thank you for that. I was about to pay someone to do some minor repairs in my fiberglass but now I think I can do it myself!

[@joedraggerman5735]

Your the best man I’m using all my acquired knowledge rebuilding my pilot house back wall and a side rail. A lot of work but satisfying when done.

[@amoebaart]

I love this video so much. THANK YOU.

[@autofanaticcars]

Excellent videos

[@jamierogers5685]

Great job on videos. I’ve picked up a boat for my son so we can do a project together he wanted his own boat an I know nothing about fiberglass. But now I think it’s something we can do. So thanks again from Louisiana. Keep it up buddy.

[@kelr2387]

This guy is awesome. Great detail, easy to understand.....my go to guy for info.

[@MrMcw56]

Very good videos, like the detailed information. I am restoring a thirty one year old bass boat and you are a big help! Keep up the good work...

[@boatworkstoday]

Thanks @Timulator :-) My reasoning for going with epoxy / paint boils down to time (which directly effects customer cost). Doing these types of repairs in gelcoat adds a significant amount of finishing time. Key word here is REPAIR.. When building something new and being able to use molds for the non-skid and shape, poly resin and gelcoat are much more economical. But when repairing something and blending into existing surfaces not so much; there's a tradeoff between material cost and time.

[@MrFruitstick]

Great vid! Now I feel a lot more confident to repair my boat for the first time! 😁

[@fishernick2447]

Brilliant mate ! Thanks 👏👏👏

[@abdellahboulhouda2167]

Thanks for your beautiful videos you teach as a lot. Greeting and big big warm thanks to you sire from Morocco the north of africa. I love the way that you present and the way that you try to make everyone understand simply. Thanks again and again

[@thomasconeys4629]

Explained so well, takes the wystery and aprehensions out or attempting DIY

[@cwmaxfield2000]

Exactly what I need to know as I need it. Thanks.

[@PRIMOS413]

Thank you, Video is awsome learned a lot just with this video, I'll be watching more videos, Started a boat project, and let me tell you I don't know what the he'll I'm doing, Watched a lot of videos about boat stringers and transom, boat I got has no transom or stringers, Transom no problem to measure but I don't know how or what to do with the stringers meaning to measure them, the top part of the bass boat has built in compartments and live Wells, so I don't know how high I put the stringers since I took the top part off, Sorry I went a Lil crazy, Thank you for the video

[@WayneTheBoatGuy]

Nice seeing someone doing it right!!

[@boatworkstoday]

Something that size you'll need to remove parts of the interior for access; I would not recommend patching something that big from one side only.. Just remove the damage and grind back your tapers. It would be helpful to use a thin plastic board or ply sealed with plastic to press against the hull to maintain shape for the first couple layers of glass. Once the shape is established you can then move onto laying up the bulk of the material and final fairing. Any repair area needs to be dry

[@boatworkstoday]

Thank you!

[@boatworkstoday]

Thanks Bill! Good luck with your projects :-)

[@billgagnon4670]

Beautiful.....thanks for the vids .much better to watch resin set up then waiting for paint to dry

[@rdzhang]

Excellent work! Thanks for sharing.

[@CaptnB05]

Love what you are doing! Keep up the great work!

[@davidfusco6600]

Excellent communicator!

[@owohgeorge2474]

Great demonstration. Many thanks for sharing your immense talent.

[@boatworkstoday]

Great Tip! Thanks :-)

[@halloweendog]

Great fun presentation most excellent style and extremely informative/helpful. Many thanks well done! From over the pond UK. :)

[@captaincaliman1647]

Absolute legend!

[@NicholasMaietta]

Thank you for this video. I have to repair several holes in my 1979 high top for my Dodge van where the old vents where.

[@ainstaink8312]

Thank you for this great video! Very detailed!!!

[@OEFarredondo]

You made such a great video! Thank you.

[@SebastianDeBeer]

@boatworkstoday Thanks - will do. Going down to the boat tomorrow so will take some photos the. Cheers Sebastian

[@jeffgilmore8901]

Very helpful, I am repairing molds used to pour concrete umbrella anchors. Thanks!

[@FarmageddonRecordsOfficial]

Thank you so much for all of this information Andy, it's helping me get my 1963 Sears Runabout back to life. Whoever is disliking your videos needs a swift kick in their junk.

[@ehubbard13]

All right, thanks again for all of your help!

[@islandbyfilm]

Super informative. Thanks so much for sharing this awesome video

[@nancysmith9487]

Thank yous for sharing.... Very informative guidelines for the day. And tutorials on what you prefer on different types of damages. Like your painting and filling strokes. Hello tree... Appreciate your time and effort plus teaching someone that may pass it on one day to there kids or grandkids,or friend

[@TheJimsock]

Yep, this is the one I've been waiting for. Thanks.

[@augiemattheiss]

Excellent presentation, maybe I can take on that hole in my RV now!

[@ratusbagus]

This is a voice from the future Andy. You didn't age at all!

[@boatworkstoday]

Hey Joseph, if the repair spots are below the waterline and not requiring gelcoat then I would just use thickened epoxy. I am doing a blister repair / prevention video now that should be of some help. I'll have that video ready sometime in Sept :-) BTW, surprised the marina does not allow sanding outside; never heard of that. Usually as long as there are tarps on the ground and a curtain hanging down from the hull to contain dust that should be good.. May want to look into that a bit more.

[@billyfutch1473]

Great informative video. Thank you!

[@apaulothegreat1581]

You're very good on conveying great video my friend keep up the good work we all appreciate you

[@boatworkstoday]

If you're looking to re-tap the hole, personally I would drill the hole out slightly oversized, fill with thickened epoxy and let it cure. Re-drill the proper sized hole for the screw and insert :-) Having the new screw surrounded with epoxy will also help prevent future possible issues with water absorption into the core..

[@airtimedesign]

Really enjoy watching your videos. I'm trying to learn how to work with fiberglass on my own project boat and you are a great teacher. Production is clean too. Camera and audio look and sound good. Nice job. Please keep the info coming. Trying to find a rattle between inner and outer liner on a 23' Seacraft. Thinking about cutting an access hole and filling with foam. Have you done a demo on using foam?

[@jt659]

Great find with this channel!

[@billarroo1]

Nice work .Thanks William

[@TheDesertSailor]

You are the only person I can watch on youtube how to videos that I am with you through the whole thing! Love your videos. Sooo helpful.

[@sirchainy]

Great video man,I used to do the same thing on brand new trailer's at glendale, I used work in the finishing dep..you do great work and well explained in the vid's. I needed A refresher been a while and I'm going to start making and you can lol scale canoe's,I also used to own a 28' fiberforme with fly bridge,I needed to fix a few hole's..... thank you for tip's and help I needed

[@PatrickInCayman]

Great videos and extremely informative. I learned more in two of your videos than I did in two weeks searching the internet. Will definitely watch the rest. Got a 32 Ericson sloop that I'm refurbishing. Got some deep deck cracks going into the core and about 4-5 inches long. Just stemming from to the hull. The area of the core seems to have some amount of dry rot. Could you point me to a video that deals with a similar situation?

[@Sprucegrove123]

Great video Andy such as great presentation as always

[@janso1805]

Great! Really great videos, I've really enjoyed them.

[@LadyTSurvival]

i have learned a lot from your videos so... thank you for your explanations. i will have two or three 14 in x 14 in holes in the top of a fiberglass van top to fill in. the top has three vents coming through, only really need 1. so i have been soaking up knowledge on how to fix fiberglass so that i do not mess it up too badly. the only thing i am worried about is the gel coat. getting it smooth enough. will cross that bridge when i get to it. may have to recoat the whole top depending on if the patches can be seen from the ground.

[@boatworkstoday]

I haven't but it's pretty straight forward. Just make sure to have everything planned out, be prepared to work very fast as the foam starts to expand very quickly and don't do large pours in enclosed cavities. A few small pours are better than 1 large pour :-)

[@kevinhenry61]

Very informative and well presented. I'm finding a lot of useful information in your videos for repairing a 17ft. Fibreglass/gelcoat Boler trailer. Thank you for posting. I have subscribed. Very good job.

[@akkemik]

it is a masterpiece video about fiberglass repair ever seen... well done!

[@the_real_randall]

Thanks for putting together all these videos. I bought your Ebook as well.

[@louisdomonte7227]

I agree. Very informative and expertly done. You ought to put on a show on PBS called this old boat. YOur that good!

[@gurnamdulku3729]

You are a great inspiration brother. Appreciate it

[@paulgains4516]

oh mate it is so good to see a fellow boat builder showing how to do a job the right way. so sick of seeing others stuffing up rebuilds for floor and transom repairs, standard rule of thumb what you take out you put back in, you need to mention they need to take note of how thick the work surface is to how much glass they need to use on the repair.

[@nassosfili6737]

Thank you for your videos ! They have helped me alot !

[@MrTtmich]

High quality instructional video!

[@boatworkstoday]

Thank you! Right now I don't know of any good vids to show how core replacement is done, but if you are able to send me some pics and more info I can help walk you through the process :-)

[@mojomandingo]

Great videos man. Learning a lot from you. Going to try doing some repairs on my first boat, it really isn't in the prettiest condition right now. May end up just having a pro fix it up for me. Any way, my question is on "small holes". What you showed was one that doesn't go all the way through. Well there are a couple of screw holes that DO go all the way through and I want to know if you tackle that the same way as you did in your small hole demo.