Boiler Auto Vent Replacement

[@danobrien3109]

Nice to see the simple ones too Joe. Thanks👍👍🇨🇦

[@Yawwee]

Nice to get an Easy 😄Peasy job !!! That install sure looked 👀pretty🌹 nice, all quality 🛠workmanship 🏆there !!! Looks like it was done🕒 yesterday !!! On to the next 🚐one !!!!!

[@ptyptypty3]

wow, very GOOD VIDEO! thank you... I'm a Michigan guy too.. Go LIONS... thanks for that easy look at the Hy Vent.. My one vent is leaking , so I have to replace it ..or have a pro replace it... thanks again!! I just subscribed... :)

[@HVAC.Flo.Doctor]

love when the work comes together good

[@joeyf504327]

2 story house turned into a rental? I'm surprised anyone still install air scoops given how awesome micro-bubblers work.

[@leesunlung]

I realize that you shut the vent valve at the end. Should you suppose to keep that valve open?

[@williamserver4332]

Great video

[@rufiorufioo]

Would these vents fall under a home warranty? I have two that need changed with a type 30 thermal tank needing changed. I could do this myself cause I can isolate the inlet and water return to boiler.. Just of course would like to have a professional do it if possible. Also the air vents one is 150 psi and other is type 67 35 psi ? Is that normal?

[@Ron-yf9jl]

Is the the boiler vent cap suppose to be tight

[@MiHeatingGuy]

no

[@Ron-yf9jl]

I was wondering because my brass cap has a vent hole in it.

[@lukehodgson5222]

I have an auto vent on my boiler system too. How do you know the vent needs changed? I get some gurgling in my baseboards when it's running. Thanks. Keep the boiler vids coming!

[@caru3257]

You may need a new reducing valve and the auto vent gets replaced if it is leaking.

[@jameslang9170]

Those little air vents do little to nothing for air elimination but leak. You probably have air in the line.

[@skaizun]

If you see a lot of lime or calcium deposits on the air vent (typically, made by Taco), then it's possible that it needs to be changed. FWIW, the first time I changed my air vent was 20 years after the boiler was installed, professionally. The second time was 5 years after that. The third, and most recent, time was 3 years later! Clearly, something drastic has changed in the manufacturing process and/or the materials used that it no longer lasts as long as it used to. For the most part, just clean the outside of the air vent with a stiff metal brush that can be found in most dollar stores' auto or tools section (it, usually, comes in a pack of 3 or 6 similar brushes of different sizes and stiffnesses). The cleaned vent doesn't have to be perfectly shiny; just enough to get rid of the gunk! (be very careful when touching the metal parts and nearby pipes, as they may be hot!) When done, untwist the metal cap (looks like a car tire cap; it may be lightly stuck on due to rust or calcium) and GENTLY stick a pin in the hole no more than an inch or so down to help clear it; then, put the cap back on, stopping when the cap won't go any further, then unscrew it one-quarter turn to allow air to escape. Don't be surprised if you need to do this multiple times a year! Cheaper than replacing it, right? However, if you find a puddle of water beneath the air vent (I have a piece of plastic and aluminum foil to direct any overflow into a small, plastic, bowl, on the floor to catch such), then the overflow isn't being "burned off" (evaporated) by the boiler's heat, which means it is flowing too much or too often, and should be replaced. Although it is easy to do, if you are not mechanically inclined, the damage you can do will cost far more than the approx $15 of the air vent, never mind the potential for scalding yourself, so, a $150 professional plumber visit may be more prudent. Long, but, fast and highly detailed, explanation of these air vents, including a cut-away demonstration of its inner workings: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hZjaaWacYrmVrMk

[@donaldbracciano832]

@@skaizun I have a 54 year old Nat’l US Radiator boiler filled with soft water and I use Hydronic #5 cleaner Inhibitor which is white silicone with lubricating qualities. I never drain my boiler unless a bad pump. Add a can of Hydronic #5 every 2 years. No rust or crud in boiler. I have a whole house filtration system too. The inhibitor also lubricates zone seals and pump seals. You don’t need to drain and fill these closed systems unless there is a problem with the pump. As long as the cast iron is not leaking, every part on the boiler is replaceable.

[@mikev.1034]

👍👍

[@skaizun]

NEVER turn ANYthing connected to a pipe without attaching something to keep the torque from twisting or breaking adjacent piping! (i.e., another wrench on the closest, unmoveable, pipe, preferably wrapped in a small towel to prevent the anti-torque - - if you will - - wrench from damaging it). If the pipe is cool enough, you can hold it by hand, but, people can over-torque the pipe with their hand, as well!

[@altyndom7039]

Resemblance of similar jobs is striking you might as well be from my company.