Leaking Air Vent Repair

[@oilandfireguy1739]

Great video, showed the isolation and depressurization of the system better than any other video

[@johnpike2778]

Great video. Thanks for your help. I took care of mine today. Took about 20 minutes with your construction.

[@pavoutsinas]

Nice POV angles while working. Feels very hands on.

[@skaizun]

As soon as you remove the air vent (most commonly by Taco), you should use a steel "toothbrush" to clean as much rust and calcium as you can (a drill with a metal brush bit is "okay," but, use the slowest speed possible to avoid damaging threads, metal skin, etc.). Paint may be applied afterward; painting without brushing, first, is useless. This also helps expose any weak spots in the other metallic objects that may need to be addressed. FWIW, the oldest air vent in my home took nearly 20 years to fail. The next one, 7 years. Then, 5 years. The current one is barely 2 years old and it has failed. Assuming no issues with my home plumbing or pressure (not saying there isn't, but, odds are there are no such problems), the mfr process is bad (my guess is that either they substituted and internal plastic piece for the old metal one, or the internal seal is inferior or not connected as well as it used to be); I reported as much to Taco, and asked for a replacement, but, they never responded. The cost used to be under $5, but, now, is about $15. :,(

[@Ted_E_Bear]

The Great Hacker is always the smartest in the room! Thanks again for the great work !! As Steve Lav says, it’s a little crusty

[@daviddesilva4971]

It has to look better when you leave than when you got there. Good job! Thxs for the vids!

[@mikerama4724]

Great video with practical approach 👍🏻

[@HippyEngineer]

You didn’t think the corrosion on the air scoop warranted replacement?

[@Ron-yf9jl]

Do you close the drum vent cap tight after the fix.

[@rufiorufioo]

Have two of these on my system. One is 150 psi relief and other is 35psi relief? Is this proper?

[@royamberg9177]

It would have been a good time to check pressure in expansion tank

[@throttlebottle5906]

what pressure =p the vent leaking is likely because of it opening. why is it opening? probable bad tank/leak elsewhere and it keeps adding makeup water. that said, those vent always shmoo up within a year or so anyway, and there's always off-gassing of boiler water, regardless if there was loss and makeup water. hydronics 1 of 1 ;)

[@Nick-we7lf]

Bet you the expansion tank was flooded. You should have bled the system anyway. Typical lazy tech. Half Azz job.

[@soopersplicer]

Couldn’t you have just closed the valve before the circulator and the valve on the other side of the air vent?

[@markmyjak7739]

Why is the system right up against the wall. There are items that need to be accessed but can't.

[@richmac918]

What is that cast iron piece you were going to paint (the one the air vent and expansion tank are screwed into) called? I know it has a name but can't remember what it is. Trying to figure out what it's for (its name will probably tell me).

[@tyronevonchadley]

Air comb/ Air strainer

[@richmac918]

Thanks

[@nilolee2426]

Can you leave the cap tight for the air vent after the air bled automatically?

[@ATeamAdam]

I would

[@thehvachacker]

It depends on the system. If a spirovent is on the system he’s close the cap. A glycol system where fresh water is manually entered also close the cap. A system with a PRV valve that automatically adds water as needed it’s best to leave open. It removes any air that may enter the system with city water. Many techs tighten the cap when they see it leaking, afraid they might have to bleed after replacing.

[@ATeamAdam]

@@thehvachacker B&G Recommends closing a ball or gate valve on a prv after the system is full. I know that is a split thought process behind that. If it was me I would rather know if there was a leak or an issue with an expansion tank rather than it keep feeding without supervision.

[@Eddy63]

Good 1 Hackster ... Interesting and entertaining ...

[@comodice905]

bloke its in a bad location relocate it so it doesn't drip on electronics and prosecute the purp that installed it there

[@Lonewolf3165]

Are you from Philly?

[@thehvachacker]

North Jersey

[@oldcarnocar]

BOILER VIDS! sweeet

[@thehvachacker]

As much as I like ac and furnace work, I rather be working on a boiler

[@GoodGuideForYou]

Good

[@donnierobertson3088]

Ok

[@anunenjengatno6510]

78

[@stevetung4728]

You drained the boiler so you could installed the new air vent valve. That means you introduced air into the system. Did you drain the air out of the system afterwards? Seems you fired up the boiler right away. Changing any of these is easy. But purge the air afterwards is more time consuming. I saw a lot of similar videos lately without purging the air. Seems like they are just for shows. Not real plumbing jobs.

[@justicecenter]

Not a repair it was a replacement

[@frankygonzalez496]

Show us a video on how to repair one and make a video of before and after. Thanks in advance smart as

[@ronalddsouzak]

I don't like your job, you could at least clean the rust before placing new part. Finishing touch missing and its not clean job!

[@skaizun]

I thought the same thing, but, cleaning is time consuming (time= $$$), and there was no obvious damage. Also, in some cases, using any kind of abrasive could further damage the cleaned areas, especially pipe threads, and you, certainly, don't want any kind of cleaning solution (even natural ones) accidentally getting into the water supply! Having said that, as a handyman, I always try to leave my repairs looking better/cleaner than I found them (an ordinary toothbrush does wonders for pipe threads; in rare instances, I'll block off the water with something (depending on the size of the pipe inlet/outlet), and use a harder brush, such as those used to clean barbecues (the toothbrush-sized ones). I never use sandpaper or sanding drill bit/disc, as they can strip any protective paint, not to mention causing potentially dangerous sparks (yes, even ordinary sandpaper).