Hangkai 3.6 / 3.5 hp outboard motor - 10 Things To Know

10 or more "Things To Know" about this motor if you are considering buying one! HELPFUL!

[@christopherwicks2300]

This video has been so helpful thanks so much I've had this motor for a few months now and use it a couple of times a week and it's not put a foot wrong I used high quality gear oil and changed the sparkplug to a champion one and I only use 98 octane fuel and 2 stroke racing oil at 40-1 and it runs so sweet

[@BoilerDan1]

Good to hear a success story. I’ve got a couple of videos on changing the clutch. It’s not difficult and I took more apart than needed…. But it’ll be part of the routine maintenance for you…. But I enjoy working on it. It’s a simple engine, and that’s a good thing! Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment! 👍👍

[@christopherwicks2300]

@@BoilerDan1 I've not had any clutch issues but my hangkai 3.5 looks slightly different to yours the case is grey, maybe it's a mk 2 or something but the clutch looks slightly higher quality. I found running it on premium gas made a difference and tightening the throttle cable a bit I've got it on a small zodiac dingey and can get about 15 kmph max and 10 kmph (about 6 mph) on cruise on the canal and travel about 7 miles on a tank of fuel, I might also change the propeller and fit a dolphin hydrofoil to it to max out the performance

[@BoilerDan1]

@@christopherwicks2300 that’s great! Thanks again and enjoy your time on the water!

[@ah2347]

In an email I received from the seller that sold me the motor, they mentioned that I should use 87 octane ethanol free. Unfortunately, where I am there is only 91 octane and above. You mention in your comment that you use even higher octane. I am wondering, has your motor ever suffered from the higher octane fuel? Thanks in advance.

[@BoilerDan1]

No, you just don’t want less octane. The ethanol additive can deteriorate the fuel lines. That’s what I had happen. I guess go with what you have available and change out fuel lines each season. With the increase use of ethanol you might find new lines that hold up better?

[@pollyrobinson3877]

Thanks for this, Dan. I’ve thrown together an amazon shopping cart based on your list. Really appreciate you taking the time to post this for engine noobs.

[@BoilerDan1]

You're welcome. Thanks for commenting. Hope rains slow soon so I can actually take mine out this year!

[@BillyGirlardo]

I'm real close to buying the 4 stroke 4hp off Amazon so thx for your checklist!

[@BoilerDan1]

In hindsight that’s what I would rather have purchased. I think the 4 stroke is the way to go. However, special note: it can’t be laid down sideways as oil will leak into the cylinder and fowl the plug. (So I’ve been told). You can remove the oil and refill it at your destination if you need to transport it laying down. I’ve also been told that you can lay it down at a slant on one side, I just don’t know which side is okay? Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment 👍

[@oldmandoingstuff8997]

Boiler Dan, yes Gators we have not many jus a few here in Montgomery County, I'm on look out for sure, . Tks for tips I ordered the latest plug u changed to after the champion.. I'll post here in a month or 2 when I get the tandems runnin on the boat. John

[@ScreenMasters369]

Hows the engine going?

[@PopsThompson47]

Great tips Dan, especially like the idea of bees wax on that starter cord.

[@BoilerDan1]

Thanks goes to my Grand-dad (Grandfather), who showed me that on a very old motor that he would hand wind a rope around the flywheel to pull start it! Thanks for watching!

[@steveevans3853]

Thanks for posting. Great advice. A huge improvement to these motors is to fit a 1.5 clutch spring. The original is a 4k....meaning the engine revs to 4000 revs before the clutch engages.....engages the driveshaft to turn the water pump. A clutch spring from a Honda BF2d or BF2.3 fit perfectly and greatly improves the engine

[@BoilerDan1]

That’s great advice. I replaced my spring with one from a hardware store and it did work, but getting a true fit is a much better solution. Thanks for sharing! And watching!👍👍

[@steveevans3853]

@@BoilerDan1 In my opinion there are plenty of ways of extracting more power out of these engines, the carbs are not the brilliant and exhaust is functional at best..The leg and drive is from a 2hp Yamaha and being a short stroke oversquare engine has plenty of low down grunt

[@BoilerDan1]

Shame that I didn’t have your knowledge from the start of my adventure!😂 Thanks again for sharing 👍👍👍

[@ah2347]

Is the clutch spring easy to replace? This is very interesting, thanks for sharing.

[@BoilerDan1]

I’m not a mechanic by any means. Yes it’s an easy fix. I couldn’t find a lighter clutch spring so I used one for a hardware store that I was able to clip on. I think you responded to Steve Evans comment, so take his advice and search for 1.5 clutch spring. If you watch the video I posted on replacing the clutch spring you’ll see what I did. It worked much better than the original one. It’s way too strong. Thanks for watching 👍

[@robertusa1234]

I've had the same problem with the cheap Chinese 2-stroke generators first thing you have to do is get rid of these spark plug that comes with it and change out the fuel line

[@BoilerDan1]

Good to know I've done the right things ;0)

[@Manuel_Z_Kayaks]

I'm buying one new/unused tomorrow. Thanks for the tips. Another tip for small motors... LEASH/CHAIN THE MOTOR TO THE VESSEL. In case it comes loose or someone tries to swipe it

[@BoilerDan1]

Good luck with yours. I enjoyed my journey but it does take some tweaking. I think mine would have preformed better on a small hard shell boat. The raft was a bit spongy causing me to lose thrust. Thanks for watching 👍👍

[@stevenmorris2293]

Fuel lines swap also ? Thanks Dan

[@sacramental9168]

Awesome tips thank you just bought one waiting in it

[@BoilerDan1]

You're welcome. Hang on to my link as I add video's of any repairs I make... Which I already have.... You might as well plan on replacing the clutch on a yearly basis... The good news is that they are cheap and easy to replace! See video's kzbin.info/www/bejne/fmXQgXqrerChgas And: kzbin.info/www/bejne/h6acgJ2Ol7KoqqM Note: a viewer said I could have taken it apart from the top and not removed the prop shaft. I'll try that next year! :0)

[@BoilerDan1]

1st, Did you add gear lubricant at the propeller gears? It’s shipping without gear oil in the gears down by the propeller (watch my other videos) 2nd, The propeller doesn’t turn at idle speed, you must run at least 3/4 speed for it to turn.

[@richsoliman8394]

Do you think it will move a 16ft aluminum starcraft 1 mph at 3/4 throttle?

[@BoilerDan1]

@@richsoliman8394 Ha, Yes, I’m sure it would manage that task! It’ll do better on that than my sponginess of my raft. Make sure you check out several of the videos I made. The clutch wears out quickly, but replacing or even removing the clutch tension spring will greatly help.

[@richsoliman8394]

@@BoilerDan1 thanks

[@eykwingnut]

I appreciate the tips

[@bentontool]

Outstanding videos! Thanks.

[@BoilerDan1]

I have had quite the adventure with the motor. Had no idea when I started the series. But in hindsight I think it’s helped several people along the way!👍. Thanks for providing me with some positive feedback 😁👍👍

[@davebushell8127]

Great info, I would add that on my 3.5 the in tank fuel filter seem to have an inbuilt metal weight and its breaking down leaving a metal paste in the bottom of the tank. I replaced it with an all plastic one with a s/s nut to keep it at the bottom. + new fuel lines. The 3.5 splits into left and right halves and the fuel tank is attached to the half with the sparking plug and carburetor i've swapped mine to the other half for ease of maintenance

[@greyagle]

Can you explain how you swapped it? I like the idea. Pretty dumb having carb adjustments on same side as tank. Should be able to adjust on the fly as needed

[@BoilerDan1]

Hopefully Dave Bushell will see your question and answer. Thanks for watching. Sorry I don’t have the answer.

[@guyh.4553]

Never knew about these motors until a couple of days ago. Yes, you get what you pay for. Interesting about full throttle at break in...I always thought that you were supposed to run them at all different speeds. Makes sense about replacing the common parts. Questions: With the lack of availability of non-ethanolated fuels any more, what do yo do? As I run older Merc motors, I was advised to use add an additive such as Stabil 360 for the ethanol. Also, all I've seen are 3.5/3.6 hp motors. Are there bigger motors, like a 5 - 6 - 7.5 hp, available? Need a larger motor for the type of water that I hit & size of boat I have... thanks

[@BoilerDan1]

The company does make larger motors. One of my video's shows how to access their web site and it will show several motors. But I didn't purchase through them directly. Also, I am now using ethanol fuel too. I use Lucas Safegaurd Ethanol Fuel Conditioner that I found at Walmart. Here is the web site for Hangkai motors www.hang-kai.com/en/ the en is for English. I cover that topic in later videos.

[@BoilerDan1]

One additional comment: I want to clarify the break-in. Yes, do very the speed, but not full out top speed. That puts a lot of stress on everything, and you want it to get everything moving smooth before putting stress on it (My opinion). Even after the break in period, mine would sometimes kind of jump or kick/lurch and I think it was due to it needed more run time? But it might have been due to the vent in the gas cap not opening up when it needed too? Anyway, now that I have run it several times, it runs smooth.

[@HigherSelph]

Thanks for your videos, BoilerDan, very helpful! Im considering upgrading to a metal prop, but have no idea what to look for. Any chance you know where I can get one or what to search for?

[@BoilerDan1]

Here’s a sample from eBay: www.ebay.com/itm/115093730920?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=RpepT0RYTvq&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=s8A53jWuRTC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY But you can find several by searching on eBay, just search Hangkai propeller. Thanks for watching 👍

[@HigherSelph]

​@@BoilerDan1 Thank you. I also asked the seller, but instead of answering, they asked I use the original propeller first 🤷‍♂️

[@lunas.2524]

Thanks a lot! Greetings from Germany! 😊

[@BoilerDan1]

Some of the things may have changed as I gained more experience… Don’t need a better air filter. In one segment I tried insulating the sound but that holds heat…. So don’t do that…. Breaking it in is best done just using it on your boat…. Anyway, glad to help. By the way: Small World! My mother’s family are German (Reister). I have fond memories of my Grandfather (Granddad) who took me fishing in the summers when I would visit. Thanks for taking the time to provide positive feedback 👍👍

[@rockyhill9946]

Great review, very informative, Thanks

[@BoilerDan1]

I appreciate you comments. I've made several on this motor....So take a look at them at some point. Latest was replacing the clutch.. Not difficult, and should probably be done seasonally depending on how often you would run the motor. Thanks for watching!

[@rockyhill9946]

@@BoilerDan1 I have watched your other videos on this little motor, I have a 10' Jon boat that I want to use on some of the smaller lakes around me. I use a 55 LB motorguide trolling motor that I use now. I wanted a small inexpensive motor in conjunction with it. In your opinion, for the money, is this little motor worth buying?

[@BoilerDan1]

@@rockyhill9946 : It will push your 10' solid boat better than my raft. I think it runs great, but the fuel lines, spark plug and the clutch will need replaced at regular intervals. The pull cord would be weak, but rubbing mine down with bee wax has worked well. So if you don't mind making those changes after you run it for a while, I think it's worth it. In my recent video, showing that the lighter spring worked well, I ran a full fuel tank of gas through it and it still runs smooth. I've had it now for 2 years. Actually, I'd change the spark plug right away.... And maybe the spring on the clutch..... But if all the above is too much hassle, then save up more $$$ and buy something better. Or buy it, then if you don't like the extra maintenance... Sell it! :0)

[@brujodat]

Great video. I own a Hangkai 4hp 4 Stroke. Can a pipe be added from the exhaust all the way to the water in order to make it quieter?

[@BoilerDan1]

I have sometimes wished I had gotten the 4 stroke. I don’t really know the answer to your question. Maybe another viewer can answer. That being said, I would think that you could, but the noise might reverberate through the pipe? Maybe look into a better muffler? I tried to insulate the housing but took it off due to concerns of overheating…..

[@nedflanders190]

I see so many unboxing and reviews of the first time using these and so many other things but never anything else after that I'd sure like to know how it does over a few years. I wouldn't trust it on lake superior but still might hate to paddle back after dark from some of my favorite spots.

[@BoilerDan1]

Your concerns are valid. I made several videos on my experience with the motor. I’ll put a link below. But to be honest, I always went upstream so I could drift back if needed! kzbin.info/aero/PLjMZtm2hvqrOIvLcah1u1V45Y_R-AKeqm I recently turned 71, and my family encouraged me to sell mine, so my journey with the motor has ended. I had fun though!👍

[@pitsmcgoo]

Perfect for my crappy boat.

[@kengarloch5398]

BoilerDan1 the manual says to use 10w 30 2 stroke oil to gas mix is that what you did or can I use 2 cycle oil in the 35 to 1 mix

[@BoilerDan1]

Ken Garloch : there are two style motors. If you have the two cycle motor you will use the 2 cycle oil and mix the oil and fuel. If yours is the 4 cycle motor it the 10w30. That type is not mixed with the fuel.

[@defmud80]

I'm looking to buy one of these to do a custom mount onto a fishing kayak for ocean fishing. Would you recommend this being that I'm trying to keep cost down

[@BoilerDan1]

It’ll keep the cost down if you can get one reasonable. My concern is reliability! The clutch wears out pretty quickly. It’s easy to work on but I wouldn’t get to far from shore! It’s the little things, fuel lines, spark plug. But if you change those items and keep an eye on things, the motor itself seems solid. Watch all my videos on the motor and you’ll have a good idea of what to expect.

[@AsianRedneck239]

Was going from 30:1 to the 50:1 fuel/oil ratio a manufacturer recommendation?

[@BoilerDan1]

Yes, info from Hangkai: (see link below) The 30:1 mix is for breaking in the motor. It will produce an oil residue out the exhaust. Once you go to 50 :1 it is much cleaner running. NOTE: on their web site you will see they show the mix of 25:1 for break in period. I didn't do that, and would guess that would even create even more oil residue and possibly foul the spark plug? Here is a link to the manufactures recommendation. www.hang-kai.com/en/nd.jsp?id=2&groupId=-1

[@bryankirby289]

Hey dan couple quick questions first one, did you replace the air filter? What did you use? Second was what type of gear oils am I supposed to get? And third what was the part number for the spark plug you got I would like to have all these things before I got test it out! Thanks for the helpful videos!

[@BoilerDan1]

I ended up not replacing the air filter. A watcher commented that due to being out on water, it's not a dusty environment and it would be fine.... You should get SAE 90 Gear Lube. But this year I'm going to try full synthetic gear lube that has a range of weights... Hope it goes well? You can find it at Walmart, Amazon or any place that has boating supplies. Spark Plug is NGK brand, # BM6Y but also has 5466 on the package it came in. Thanks for watching. I'm retired and have been doing this to keep my creative juices flowing! :0)

[@bryankirby289]

Thanks dan! You’ve been very helpful

[@upsidedown1986]

Hi do you know how many turns out the carb screw should be from the fully seated in position? Great videos byvthe way very helpful.

[@BoilerDan1]

I’m sorry, I don’t remember exactly…. Maybe 2 1/2? Or 3 1/2? Here’s a video that might explain better: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mYmonXV9YpVphNE

[@upsidedown1986]

​@@BoilerDan1thank you. 👍

[@heritagelandscapedallas]

Hey Dan - just below the bottom 1/2 engine adjacent to where throttle cable enters there is a hole blowing exhaust- looks threaded-

[@BoilerDan1]

Hmmm, I’m not sure? But the exhaust system isn’t that sealed a system. If the exhaust vents just above the water line are plugged, the exhaust could flow back upwards. Shame you can’t attach a photo to show more.

[@jvboys1]

Just bought 3.6 took cover off as u suggested to inspect notice a lot of heat discoloration at exhaust flange mounted to engine.. could it have been used and returned.

[@BoilerDan1]

I had same thing. I think it’s something to do with it’s production and or the start each one to verify it’s working. The flange at the base I think is welded and that would also create that effect.

[@Steve-fz3pl]

Hi Dan, Good info for this little motor. I have a couple of things to add; 1. My pull start and claw pull failed from the beginning, not sure which part failed first. It’s a good idea to take the pull start off and tighten down the claw pull with thread lock. Then replace the pull start with a little thread lock. 2. My throttle grip was loose. Ive tightened it up by removing some material between the joint but need to add a sleeve I think. 3. My 2 cents on fuel. Avoid ethanol fuels and high octane fuels. High octane fuels may use ethanol to bring the octane value up. Hangkai recommend standard unleaded 93. We use standard unleaded 91 for small engines. Use only fresh fuel, only mix what you need, do not store fuel, tip unmixed fuel into a car to be used rather than storing. Ethanol is corrosive to metal parts like the carb needle and seat. It will degrade rubber like the fuel line and internal carb gaskets. These little engines use a rubber gasket fuel pump which runs off the crank case pressure, ethanol will quickly damage this gasket fuel pump.

[@BoilerDan1]

Thanks for your thoughts and good advise. I'm fortunate to be in an area where you can find fuel without ethanol blends. Although my fuel line still rotted out within about 6 weeks. Hope people considering this motor will take the time to read comments like yours as they will have a better overall experience with it. For me, half the fun is overcoming the little problems! :0)

[@THELIFEDREAMER.1329]

Hi Dan, thank you for sharing your videos with us, a lot to learn from them. A quick question for you, can I lay down a hangkay 3.6 two stroke motor. Please let me know. Thanks!

[@BoilerDan1]

Yes, it’s the 4 stroke that the oil can leak into the cylinder and fowl the plug. That being said, you’ll want to remove most of the fuel so it doesn’t leak out the vent in the cap, but just having a little slant will illuminate that possibility. I transported mine laying in the back of my car, just kept the fuel tank up on other equipment so it slanted down. Hope that makes sense? But yes you can lay it down. Thanks for watching 👍

[@THELIFEDREAMER.1329]

@@BoilerDan1 Hi Dan, thanks for the answer! I am kind of new on all of this and just trying not to kill my new 3.6hp. I actually have a 4 stroke 9.9 tohatsu too, but with four stroke, everything is different ( transportation, oil,etc) thanks again my friend, great Chanel!

[@BoilerDan1]

You’re very welcome! Thanks for watching 👍👍

[@Apollux]

Related question: can you swing the throttle arm all the way up or down? I’m considering getting one and will have to lay it down for transport in a rectangular space. Said space have enough length for the head+shaft but not enough space for the throttle/control arm in full “use” position. Any information would be appreciated, thanks.

[@BoilerDan1]

Yes the throttle arm will pivot up. Not down though. I chose the 2 stroke for the same reason…. To lay it down on its side. The 4 stroke holds oil an must remain upright. I will add the the exhaust goes out below the water line and that muffles the noise….. the 4 stroke has a muffler. I say that because I wouldn’t use this as a trolling motor….. a lot of sound going into the water. But to get from one place to another it worked for me….. but its not a motor for everyone, as it has some issues. I’ve documented them in the series I made along my journey. 👍

[@del80y]

Helpful tips, wondering if I should try one of these.

[@BoilerDan1]

You should research quite a bit. I’ve made several videos! Probably the biggest concern is regularly replacing the clutch. It’s not that difficult if you like doing that kind of stuff. The clutch spring being replaced with a lighter one would help a lot. Again, not that difficult. I knew nothing going into my motor and I was able to figure it out. It’s also a bit loud. Definitely not for trolling, but from one point to another it’s fine. Thanks for watching and check out all in the series to help you decide if it’s right for you. 👍

[@del80y]

@@BoilerDan1 Thanks for your reply, yes I've just watched some more recent videos of yours. And some others in general. Thinking ill maybe stick with a Mariner or Suzuki after all.

[@BoilerDan1]

I agree with your decision! I just wanted something cheap to play around with. It served me well but if you can afford more, it’s a better choice to get better. I think overall the motor’s block is good. But the add on stuff is too cheap. But I like to tinker so it was just right for me 😂.

[@marcvan]

Hi, Thanks for the video. I bought one of these and am in the process of replacing the throttle cable. Please be advised like everything on this motor it is super cheap and therefor rubbish. Make sure you oil / grease cable every year. Mine was completely rusted. Also curious at the power or lack of it. Mine is a 3.5hp but identical to yours. All brand name 2 strokes have twice the cc so I suspect it is at most 1.5hp. Your thoughts...

[@BoilerDan1]

I've not had any problem with the throttle cable....something to look forward to I guess? I know saltwater would cause some issues like that...But on your advise, I'll grease my cable this spring. I'm with you on the power issue, but I didn't expect a lot of speed out of it. I don't plan on going long distances, so for my little adventures, it's ok. Definitely not for everyone. I appreciate your watching. Hope some of my other videos will be helpful too. You'll need to change out your clutch soon too...I put in a lighter spring and that looks like it will help a lot. (Maybe you haven't gotten to that video yet? Keep watching! :0)

[@marcvan]

@@BoilerDan1 Thanks Dan. Watched clutch stuff. More fun in the future. Yes I run in salt water. I run it in a fresh water bucket after use and hose it down but corrosion still everywhere. I have taken to spraying WD40 over all aluminum motor bits and "stainless" screws after each use Why can't the Chinese make stainless 316??? I note one eBay site has sold 43 throttle cables for the 3.5 for $20 Aussie. I did the lower gear oil change as you demonstrated. Filled to half, ie well below the line . The gears will run through the oil sitting at bottom, so all good. Thanks for the videos.

[@BoilerDan1]

@@marcvan ; I think I stated "stainless" screws.... I've sense been told they are alloy of some type... Stainless will react to aluminum and cause problems... So I was told by a watcher... Anyway, enjoy your adventure!

[@martinlote7863]

great video .

[@oldmandoingstuff8997]

Boiler Dan , just a little update I've ordered two of those 3.5 horsepower motors I'm going to run them tandem on my little 13 and a half foot 1969 open v hull fishing boat Most my fishing will be done on the Alabama River waterways down here in Montgomery Alabama so mostly ill use them in tandem coming back Upstream going Downstream I'll probably just use one also it will give me a little bit of security in case one motor happens to flake out on me on the water I'll have another one to get me in I have a couple of questions have you seen where there's any way to adjust the valves on this or is it pretty much just sealed?? 2. 10 hour break in , in the water bucket, average cool time u allowed if u were to break in back to back on the hourly??.. Tks Captain John

[@BoilerDan1]

Capt. J. You are in a warmer climate than me, so be sure to run water in the container so you don't overheat the motor. I'd give it a cool down every couple of hours for sure. Also don't run at one speed, I set a timer and changed the speed a little about every 10-15 minutes. You also have to get enough speed to engage the propeller or you won't have water pump through the motor. Idle speed for a couple of minutes is ok, just not a long time. Some people have had trouble getting the propeller to turn. One checked the clutch system and said it was to tight.... Another said take the spring off, and the clutch will last a lot longer. I'm considering making a video of how to get to the clutch.... It would be a good winter project..... Regarding the clutch system; You need to rev up to get it turning, then back it down a little to the speed your using for break-in. Also The fuel cap vent hole doesn't work real well, so you might need to loosen it a bit as you run longer. I'm not able to provide information regarding the valves. I've not opened the motor up, and that is a little beyond my experience. You can also break the motor in on the river, just no full speed until you get the break in done, and then I'd take it a little easy at first.... But mine is holding up fine other than the things I listed in the videos. CHANGE THE SPARK PLUG! The ones in them are junk.... Anyway, enjoy the adventure. Thanks for watching. I'm no expert in this motor, but it's been fun working out the bugs. And being retired, it's keeping my mind alert making the videos! Watch out for gators.... They can out swim this motor! :0)

[@HigherSelph]

Where'd you find the gas to oil ratios and break in info anyway? I have the 3.5HP model, which is a little different, but the manual doesn't even mention break in. As for the mixture, it only says "The admixture of this machine at normal usage hour compares is: 30:1. Please press this comparison strictly to prepare the admixture oil, cannot random the changes."

[@BoilerDan1]

Here’s a link to the company website: m.hang-kai.com/en/ Then in the upper left corner click on the multiple horizontal lines. On that page click “News” You’ll find the oil recommendation there. I copied and pasted some below too: HANGKAI two-stroke outboards fuel used for lead-free number from 90 to 93 two-stroke gasoline and gas oil (TC-W3) mixed oil. The new machine in the running and fuel oil during the volume ratio of 25: 1 (ie, the oil content of 4% gasoline); After the run-in fuel and oil volume ratio of 50: 1 (ie, the oil content of 2% gasoline); Fuel HANGKAI four-stroke outboards use as No. 90 to 93 pure gasoline, without mixing Preparation of two-stroke outboards mixed oil Formulated as follows :( see below) (1) The required amount of oil injected into the fuel tank, then filling gasoline, oil and petrol injection Scale Range of use Mixing ratio of gasoline and engine oil by volume Fuel tank capacity of 24 liters when oil safety Lubricant oil injection amount Fuel oil injection amount Oil run-in period 25：1 0.92 liters 23.08 liters Oil at the end of the run in period 50：1 0.47 liters 23.53 liters Mixing oil and petrol, oil injection amount in Table 1 (2) The fuel tank cap screwed onto the fuel tank, the fuel tank cap vent screw clockwise tightening; (3) Shake the fuel tank, gasoline and oil thoroughly mixed.

[@28ebdh3udnav]

So in other words, it works when taken care of... Right? Thinking of buying a small inflatable boat and attaching this

[@BoilerDan1]

Yes. But it does require paying attention to the little things! I think the motor itself is good. It’s the clutch and fuel lines that require regular maintenance. Regarding the raft, I’d recommend a better one than what I used. The motor mount is too soft causing the motor to tilt and losing thrust. Or work on a better motor mount so it’s attached to the solid floor. Thanks for watching 👍

[@yadneshmistry8664]

Which is the best OBM for sea use? And for Intex mariner 4 boat.

[@BoilerDan1]

I'm in middle America, no ocean for hundreds of miles. The 3.6 hp Hangkai doesn't have a lot of power, so I'm not sure it would be my choice for sea use. You might check KZbin for users that have it in salt water, or make sure you rinse any salt water out of the unit after each use.

[@raniasuesi9026]

very nice advice, Thank you

[@BoilerDan1]

You are welcome!

[@HigherSelph]

Hopefully my last question for you 😎 Wondering if your water got really nasty when breaking in. I'm at about 5 hours in and have been using the same large trash can the whole time. And the water is just gross. Lots of oil. I dont understand where its even coming from. The motor seems to be running great though!

[@BoilerDan1]

That’s normal due to the higher level of oil to fuel mixture recommended during break-in. Once you change over to the 50:1 mix it will be totally clean. Special note: you don’t need to use a barrel or bucket. It was winter here, and I kept adding snow to keep the water cool. Run a hose to your barrel or take it out on the water!

[@clintburt9821]

Really want to get one of these going to subscribe to see how it works for you!

[@BoilerDan1]

Watch all the videos you can find! Read some comments and make your decision on what's best for for. You'll find negative and positive experience with the motor. This summer should be a good gauge of how the motor holds up for mine. One positive thing, it's a simple design and I've been able to fix anything that's gone wrong and I'm not a mechanic or anything related. Just an old guy playing around.

[@THELIFEDREAMER.1329]

Hi Dan all your videos are amazing! Quick question for you, I got a hangkai 3.6 two stroke, the thing is, I follow all your recommendations about changing spark plug, gear oil and mix ratio gas/oil. everything was going really perfect in the break in process.... Until just right now. I am on my hour 8 of breaking this motor and then I decided to leave it alone for a moment while it was breaking. What happens next is that an attachment of my garden house ( one that it was bringing fresh water to the tank where I was breaking the motor) get loose and get stuck in the propeller, stopping it with the motor running. How long it was like that, I am not really sure, but I don't think it was too long, because I had one of my house cameras pointing to the motor, that's why I realized something was going wrong. To make the story short,( is already long, I know..) I went outside to check the motor and it was smoking more than normal, I stopped it immediately and I started pouring fresh water over the shaft, one that it was hot but not more than probably water boiling point, also the low exterior area ( the base)of the motor was really hot, like a clothes iron, so, I poured water there too. After all of this and thinking that I was probably done with the motor, this started again, everything looks normal ( I checked inside the motor before starting it again, fuel lines,wires, connections etc) even the cooling water was coming out normal. My question, do you think something that I couldn't reach to check maybe it could be fried or almost fried? Please get me your advice! Thanks!

[@BoilerDan1]

YIKES! I’m surprised that the sheer pin didn’t snap? It would have been a good thing as then the hose wouldn’t keep wrapping around. Someone else said that the motor is also air cooled. It sounds like you’re very fortunate that it’s still running. I think you’ll just have to keep going! I don’t think I’d worry about doing anymore breaking in. Just take it out and see how it does. Maybe slowly reduce the oil to fuel mixture? I still am thinking that your sheer pin may have sheered off? It is supposed to do that if the propeller stops from hitting something. I think you should check that out.

[@THELIFEDREAMER.1329]

@@BoilerDan1 Hi Dan, thanks for answering right away, I really appreciate that! Well, the water hose never wraps around the propeller, what happened was that a hose attachment get loose and got stocked between the propeller and the metal thing over it, totally stopping the propeller but the motor continues running ( hey Dan , that's almost funny yeah!) After that, and of course, checking all that it was possible, I started the motor again ( to be honest, I wasn't expecting it to start again) but, believe or not it started! Actually I continue breaking the motor after that, I just stopped the motor two minutes ago and looks like it is fine ( I hope so!) But, you are probably right, maybe the shear pin is broken or close to get broken. After the motor cool down I am going to check everything ,prop,pin ,fuel line , wires and all that is possible to check. Trust me I am very, very surprised and please with this motor. I was checking some reviews of this motor online and there is a guy that looks like know about these things, and he said that the design of this motor is really good, the problem is not the design of the motor, he said the problem is the really poor assembling process , and the lacking of quality check in the factories. I don't really know how much of true is on that affirmation, but, well I kind of tested it ( by mistake by the way) whatever, I really start to feel very pleased with this motor even though that when I decided to buy it, I said to myself, whatever it happens it is going to be a learning experience ( I am trying to learn more about outboards, I love going on the water but I realized that to do it safely I need to learn more) Dan, one more time, thanks for answering and giving me your advice about this, I deeply appreciate it, and I am planning to do exactly as you told me, thanks! After I check my motor, I'll let you know what are my findings. You are the best my friend!

[@BoilerDan1]

Thanks again for your kind words. We have the same opinion on the motor. I also had little experience with them. Definitely learned a lot. Sounds like you’re are too! 😁

[@THELIFEDREAMER.1329]

@@BoilerDan1 you are totally right my friend, totally right! 👍

[@littlemanoo]

Thank you brother.

[@peterfrick830]

My 3.5hp engine seemed to have an extra rubber washer under the propeller and on top of the gear oil cover. I have not seen anything on your channel videos showing this. Was this an extra part from the factory?

[@BoilerDan1]

I’m guessing that they included an extra. Maybe by accident in production? Mine didn’t have any extra. Thanks for watching 👍

[@user-gi3xj8nz3s]

Do you have a link for this motor or similar one? Good job keep up the good work

[@BoilerDan1]

Right now they are pretty cheap! I found this on eBay: $217. I suggest you check eBay and search Hangkai 3.6 hp motor and pick one. www.ebay.com/itm/385698286797?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=6ymiisq3qja&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=s8A53jWuRTC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY I will mention that in hindsight I might consider either the 4 cycle or electric. I’m happy to help. Thanks for watching! 👍👍

[@stevenmorris2293]

Be interesting to know if this motor is in use in China and for how long

[@BoilerDan1]

The engine block itself seems ok to me. But they chose cheap fuel lines and pull cord for sure. But I'm still having fun with it!

[@vnzlazulia]

Hi have you changed the gas primer bulb i can't get the size, in the local stores they are too big Thanks

[@BoilerDan1]

I’d recommend looking on eBay or Amazon. Here’s a couple of possible options: www.ebay.com/itm/181944287483?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=4Euf2FICQRm&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=s8A53jWuRTC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY www.ebay.com/itm/323377186681?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=nitVVxXXRZy&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=s8A53jWuRTC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Or replace everything? www.ebay.com/itm/126020040758?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=5OjZQ_L4RZ6&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=s8A53jWuRTC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

[@codybriggs2984]

Is the 10 hour break in period critical to future life of the motor?

[@BoilerDan1]

Cody Briggs Yes, But you can do that when you’re using on the water. It was winter here when I got mine . A bucket isn’t the best way. Must keep water cool. Thanks for watching

[@greyagle]

Hey, Dan! I have had one of these for two years now with a lot of use including week long trips in the Everglades running the motor 4-5 hours a day, so I am pretty pleased with it. I have gotten a second one because I like having backups on the wilderness trips. The new one is only 30 minutes into break-in, and I can't keep it running for more than 3 minutes at a time (usually less than 30 seconds at a time. The tank and filters are new, and I tried loosening the cap on tank first time it quit. I notice tiny bubbles going up the return line to the gas tank when it's running. How normal is that? Any ideas here?

[@BoilerDan1]

I’m no real expert on that. Hopefully another viewer can respond. You could change or at least re-position the line that’s having the air bubbles in it. That sounds like a good place to start. Mine did something similar when it got hot. I thought it was a vacuum issue with the fuel cap? But you loosened that already. I’d start with the fuel line leaking bubbles? Sorry I didn’t have a specific answer.

[@alasdair4161]

That is most likely the fuel pump in the carburettor. It is a diaphragm that works from pressure pulses and may simply have loose screws (plates valves and diaphragm are all sandwiched together) Just try loosening then re tightening the screws in a cross pattern, if its still bad, replacement carb is the next best option. They are cheap, but again worth checking the screws are all tight befor use. Good luck.

[@BoilerDan1]

Thanks for the suggestion. I’m sure it’ll help more than one person!

[@davidhoward6157]

​@@BoilerDan1l 6:34 6:38

[@BoilerDan1]

@davidhoward6157 That’s strange? Not sure why there’s a time gap…. Worm hole, time warp, portal to another dimension?😵‍💫 You’re very observant! 👍

[@joerail99]

Well done. Thanks

[@BoilerDan1]

There's a lot more.... Check out my replacing the clutch system.... More, much more (0:

[@pandaoverboard]

How do I change the oi? Is there any oil drain? Please help, I am breaking it (10hours are up) and it's time to change the oil.

[@BoilerDan1]

I’m assuming that you have the 4 stroke motor? Mine is a two stroke where I mix the oil with the fuel. That being said, I can still help 😁. On many small engines like this, there isn’t a separate drain plug. You remove the one where you added the oil to start with and then tip the motor and drain it out that same opening, problem solved! Happy to be of help, now go out there and have some fun 😎. Thanks for watching 👍👍

[@cuzzie007]

Thank you for the video BoilerDan. I purchased a brand new one last year and only started setting it up now and cannot get the propeller to turn when i rev the engine. I have filled the gear box, checked that the shear pin behind the propellor is not broken and still cannot get the propeller to turn. Do you have any advice on this. I have dropped the whole bottom to ensure that the drive shaft is connected and it seems to be all fine. As an FYI I did check the water pump seal as well and that is appropriately positioned, but no water pumping which i assume is the fact that the propeller shaft is not turning - Do you have any idea what I should look at next?

[@BoilerDan1]

Next: Two items to try. 1st, the clutch spring is really not designed for a boat motor, it more for a weed wacker .... seriously it’s way too strong. So here’s your two things to try. The two bolts that hold the clutch on could be too tight, not allowing the clutch pads to swing outward which then turns the shaft for both the water wheel pump and the propeller. Second and you might as well do this step regardless. Replace the clutch spring with a lighter spring. I picked one up at a Menards store but any hardware store will work. You may have to get one that has closed ends, but you can bend or clip off the ends. I made a series on replacing the clutch, I’ll paste links below. kzbin.info/www/bejne/fWXUfapnadGZb80 that shows the spring. If I mentioned one that I ordered from Home Depot it turned out to be too small. kzbin.info/www/bejne/fmXQgXqrerChgas This one is putting it back together: kzbin.info/www/bejne/h6acgJ2Ol7KoqqM. Let me know if it works out for you 👍 also more: You’re working with an aluminum block , use some thread locker medium strength and don’t over tighten 👍

[@cuzzie007]

Thank you Boiler Dan, will try this and let you know...got to get the kiddos out in the water and summers are short here in Vermont🙂

[@cuzzie007]

@@BoilerDan1 and perhaps a silly question but what is the best way to access the clutch🙏

[@BoilerDan1]

One of the videos I sent the link to covers it. I’m not a mechanic but was able to do it 👍. So watch this video first. The other two are putting it back together as well as the spring replacement. I’m not sure I can list out here the process but if you watch the video then keep it handy a pause it as you go I think you can do it too. You’re not getting into the engine at all, it’s below it, watch this: Hangkai 3.6 hp Review: Clutch Repair (Part 1: Teardown) kzbin.info/www/bejne/fmXQgXqrerChgas I’m not sure that I copied the link... if not I’ll send a follow up.

[@BoilerDan1]

Here’s the tear down link: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fmXQgXqrerChgas

[@NaughtyGoatFarm]

Hi there. I have a 2hp hangkai outboard. Do you know if it is the same motor?

[@BoilerDan1]

I'm not familiar with the 2 hp, but there are several motors that are similar. Sorry I couldn't fully answer your question. I'm guessing some of the covered areas would apply to your motor too. Thanks for watching.

[@leroythehooker]

Hey Dan, I'm looking to add a lawnmower motor to the hangkai bottom half. Think it can manage a 5hp motor?

[@BoilerDan1]

I’m not the one to confirm that! The gear system on the Hangkai is very simple. One of the videos I made clearly shows the gears at about the 3 minute 38 second part of the video. Here’s a link to it. kzbin.info/www/bejne/il6vZqKajMmoq80. I suppose you could try it but not go full speed until you’re comfortable that it won’t shred the gears. If the motor you put on is air cooled then the water pump wouldn’t be an issue. It’s made out of a somewhat pliable plastic. I have seen the complete gear system replacement for sale. But it has been a while. It wasn't very expensive at the time.... Who knows now though.

[@leroythehooker]

@@BoilerDan1 thanks! It the motor is air cooled.

[@karendurrett8302]

Hi Dan, been watching your videos and really appreciate them. I have a question and was wondering if i could shoot you a picture of the o ring on prop...not sure if it looks right and want your opinion..can i email you?

[@BoilerDan1]

Sure, but I'm not sure if I will know anything. Mine has leaked a little water inside almost every time! I'd replace the o ring. copy your email to me here on this thread, and I'll email you back from that. Thanks

[@karendurrett8302]

@@BoilerDan1 [e-mail]....we noticed a little piece of "metal" stuck to the side, inside the oring...just looks out of place

[@FishFactsTV]

So when I opened mine up it had gear oil in it, so I closed it back up. The engine ran but the prop wouldn’t turn. Opened the lower unit back up and there were metal flecks, I replaced all the oil and fired it up again. Still nothing. Any ideas?

[@BoilerDan1]

If you have the water cooled motor, it works on a clutch system. So at idle the prop won't turn. However the metal fragments are a little concerning..... If nothing is wrong with the unit, then if you accelerate the motor about half way, you should get it to turn. It may take a little more than half way to full throttle and it takes a couple of seconds for it to get going. You can kind of hear it kind of slip into action so to speak. A bit of caution though, I have heard of people having the springs in the clutch slip off, but that clutch is not near the propeller. Did you purchase it new? It usually ships with no fluids in it at all.... If you got it used, I'm going to guess that the clutch system is defective. Search some more on KZbin and I think you can find something on it. Even if non-English, the video will show you the area it is in.

[@FishFactsTV]

BoilerDan1 it was definitely new. Maybe they changed their shipping practices. It seems like there is something wrong with the lower unit. I am gonna try to open it up again and see how it looks after running it again, but I may just abandon it and buy the Yamaha. It seems like it’s not turning at all even when I crank it up.

[@HigherSelph]

Did you find that the water from the cooling system comes out of the whole bottom of the motor, rather than just its dedicated exit (sry, dont know what thats called)? Thats what mines seems to be doing, although it appears to be running just fine.

[@BoilerDan1]

Yes, mine did do that. It’s not a problem. The water is actually backing up from where it exits. No worry,but I also was concerned. It’s a little annoying though.

[@HigherSelph]

@@BoilerDan1 Excellent. And you saved me again yesterday when the off button stopped working. Cheers 🍻

[@mikespinelli1024]

WInterize? do you I need to fog if I use store bought/pre mix fuel? "TRUFUEL"?

[@BoilerDan1]

Using the pre mix fuel is a very good idea and will help reduce some of the ethanol issues! The only thing that I ended up doing for winter storage was to empty out the fuel tank and then ran the motor until the fuel ran out. I had no issues the next spring. I’d recommend emptying out any fuel for storage. Thanks for watching 👍👍

[@connerjones7902]

Have you ever tried the 4 hp 4 stroke version? Which is better?

[@BoilerDan1]

Conner Jones - I chose the 2 cycle so I could lay it on its side to transport plus it was cheaper. That being said, the air cooled and a little more hp sounds like it may be a better choice. I’m considering buying one but as yet I haven’t. If you lay the 4 cycle on its side you can get oil leaking into the cylinder. Could solve that by removing the oil during transport. Thanks for watching.

[@ramonfolgar5539]

Hello Dan, I bought a hangkai 3.6 again and I have concerns about a v Ed or that the motor when it is not walking does not pump water as well and the other thing that I appreciate is that you have to accelerate a lot so that the block Ed works you have any suggestions or solutions possible for these two things thanks

[@BoilerDan1]

Ramon Folgar : at an idle it won’t circulate water. The water pump is hooked to the shaft the rotates the propeller. I had to replace the clutch in mine. At that time I put a much less tight a spring that disengages the clutch. I highly recommend considering doing that. Here’s a link showing that video of the spring. kzbin.info/www/bejne/fWXUfapnadGZb80

[@ramonfolgar5539]

@@BoilerDan1 Good morning Dan, do you think that changing the cloche spring could solve the problem or have to be replaced completely, nothing happens to the engine when it is on without clogging or apart from the water it has another type of cooling for when it is in that been, thank you very much for your attention and time regards Ramon

[@BoilerDan1]

When idle speed it will air cool, but you shouldn't let it idle for long periods of time. If you have run it for a season and notice you must run it fast to get any water to flow out your clutch is wearing out. So yes, you probably need a new clutch. I replaced the spring in my new clutch and it works much better. Water comes out with just a little acceleration. You can find a weaker spring at hardware stores as the one that comes with a new clutch is still to strong. I found my new clutch at Amazon, here is a link: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07J6F4J6M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 And I made two video's showing removal and replacement. You should be able to find those on KZbin.

[@BoilerDan1]

@@ramonfolgar5539 I'm not sure my earlier reply was clear. It does sound like your clutch is worn out. So I think you will need to replace the clutch and while doing that, also replace the spring that comes with it. The spring is much to strong for this little motor. I hope that is clearer than what I wrote earlier. I was happy to try to help.

[@stevencartlidge6574]

Hi, I have the same motor. I have a question. My motor will run just fine for about 10 minutes. Then starts cutting out. I found that if I fiddle around with the choke I can keep it from going dead. But it will not go back to full power. Have to let it cool down before it will run right again. Any ideas of what I need to do? Because when running right it pushes my 10' flat bottom boat just fine at 5mph.

[@BoilerDan1]

Steven, I’m not a mechanic but I will share some things that either I have discovered or someone else has suggested. More than one person (including me) discovered that a vacuum develops in the fuel tank. Then fuel can’t flow properly and it can even stall the motor. There’s a relief tube inside the fuel cap. If you remove the cap and look you’ll see it. Kind of like a pinched tube. There’s a little hole on the top of the cap. I poked the backside of a similar sized drill bit (or wire) through trying to stretch it out a little. Also loosening the fuel cap will work too. Only other thing I can think of is a clogged fuel filter but I doubt if that is it. Especially if it starts out fine and then after running for a while..... it’s gotta be the vacuum.... to test just loosen the gas cap 😁. Let me know if that works...Others will appreciate your feedback too!

[@stevencartlidge6574]

@@BoilerDan1 thank you I will deffently try that out and get back to you .

[@richrageagain]

What's the best oil for the full mix

[@BoilerDan1]

According to the manufacturer, after you break in the motor at a 35:1 fuel / oil ratio, it is recommended to move to the 50:1 fuel / oil ratio. That will result in a cleaner burn as it has less oil. I just recently finished the 10 hour break in run and ran my first tank close to 50:1 and it does run much cleaner. little to no oil residue coming out of the exhaust. That is also better for the ecology of the planet :0) When I take it out for it's first real on the water run, I will probably run it with about a 45:1 mix just to work towards that cleaner 50:1 mix. Hope that is all clear?

[@stevenlloyd8758]

Great! Thanks!

[@BoilerDan1]

You’re welcome. Some of the things in the series changed as time went along. Ie.. air filter is fine as is. One video I tried to sound insulate the cover. That was a bad idea as it didn’t deaden the sound and probably held in heat. But overall I had fun with it…. It’s not perfect but on a limited budget it was worth a shot! Thanks for watching.👍

[@jaybrowning2225]

On my mixing bottle which came with my motor it says 35.1 I'm new to boating with a motor how do I mix in the container ???

[@BoilerDan1]

Put the 2cycle oil in your gasoline container first, then add the gas. That will help it mix. Since you mentioned that you’re new to this: The oil is specifically designed for use in the two cycle engines. You can get it at any sporting goods area like Walmart.

[@robertpapps3618]

Perhaps you mentioned it but how much does the unit actually weigh?

[@BoilerDan1]

Yes, somewhere in the questions and answers it’s there somewhere???? But it weighs under 25lbs

[@bobgrizzly9856]

Are the seahorse and hankai obm's pretty much the same?

[@BoilerDan1]

I think you are correct. There are a two or three brand names used for these, but I think they are the same. I'm guessing someone buys a lot of them and brand them however they want?

[@jeremiekonga4107]

Thanks you for thoses informations

[@BoilerDan1]

If you’re considering buying one, I would suggest that you watch all the videos that I posted about the motor. If you already own one, the videos will help with some of the day to day issues that might come up. Thanks for watching 👍

[@yaodahyao-sharal1856]

So I noticed you said use none ethanol gas in the motor so where would I go and get none ethanol gas what type

[@BoilerDan1]

Actually it’s near impossible to get ethanol free gas anymore. So I bought the highest grade of fuel but you can also buy an additive that helps. Any Walmart type store. You can also buy premixed 2cycle fuel. The ethanol supposedly deteriorates the fuel lines fast. So you can go ahead and use it. Just replace fuel lines a little more often.

[@dsmith6943]

I purchased the hangkai 3.6 motor and received it. When I opened the box everything was there and no damage visible so I proceeded to follow instructions step by step on setting motor up to be started. I put gear oil in shaft compartment and closed it up. I used a barrel of water mounted motor on it and proceeded step by step to start it. The fired on the first pull and idled perfectly I was impressed but when I advanced the throttle to start prop rotation it would not turn at all so I idled back down and shut the motor off think there was something I didn’t do but when l grabbed prop to turn it it would not turn freely at all in fact it seemed to be in a bind so I took prop back off to see if there was something in the gear housing but I didn’t see anything wrong. I put it back together and started it again ant started immediately but when I tried to advance the throttle the prop still wouldn’t turn ( very frustrating). Has anyone had this problem on this particular motor before? HELP !

[@BoilerDan1]

1st and most important: When I used a bucket it was very cold and winter. You must supply constant cool water or you will overheat your motor....you can do it on a lake or pond too. Ok, that being said: The propeller works via a centrifugal force clutch. You can try to fully accelerate the motor to get it started turning, then back off a little but make sure you are getting water flowing out of the cooling port. The problem with the motor is the clutch has a spring that is too tight for this application. I will put two links at the end showing the clutch. I ended up replacing the spring with one from a local hardware store. It is much lighter and pull open easily now and has worked much better. I did have to pry open the ends of the new spring to adapt it to this use but it works well now. I'll also suggest that you order a replacement clutch so you have it on hand. You can search Amazon for "Clutch Drive For Honda GX31 GX35 and you will get several to chose from. That clutch is the same that came with your motor. Let me know if I can help more and I will try. Here are links showing how to replace the clutch...and a little more follow-up on the topic. kzbin.info/www/bejne/fmXQgXqrerChgas kzbin.info/www/bejne/h6acgJ2Ol7KoqqM kzbin.info/www/bejne/fWXUfapnadGZb80 kzbin.info/www/bejne/gpXXeod8rZuBY7M

[@BoilerDan1]

One other thing that I’ve discovered.... there is a line to fill the gear lubricant up to. It’s just about 1/2 below the top. There needs to be a little air in the compartment to allow for expansion when the gear lubricant gets warmer and expands. I’ve learned quite a bit in my adventure 😁

[@dsmith6943]

The shaft feels like it’s bound up from the start the motor only ran for maybe 60 seconds tops. Shouldn’t you be able to turn prop with your hand easily when the motor is not running? I can’t turn the prop at all with my hands that doesn’t seem right you can turn big boat props with your hand even if it’s in gear I just don’t know what to do would you send it back sir ?

[@BoilerDan1]

Because it doesn't function like a traditional motor, the gearing is never in neutral and so the prop won't turn easily. I wouldn't force it either as you might bend or break of the gears. If you have the option of returning it, you could give that a try. If that doesn't work out, watch the disassembly video I sent you and consider taking it apart to that level and check out the clutch. I've heard that some have had the two bolts holding the clutch in place were put on too tight and the clutch can't spring open. You could also remove the spring during break-in. That way, it would take very little throttle to engage the prop. The down side is that in actual use, you could never be in idle, the prop would always spin a little. If you watch the video, you will see how the spring works, and putting in a lighter one would be best. But again, if your more comfortable returning it, or if you could return it for another one...That's a good option. But with this motor, I've done a lot of tweaking. I enjoy doing that... But I can understand your hesitation. Let me and others reading this know how it turns out. Any input may help others decide if they want to consider buying one! If you still have questions, I'm happy to try to assist. But realize, I'm not an expert, nor anywhere near a mechanic. I'm just retired and wanted to explore a little with the motor and raft. I didn't mind the risk... Best wishes for your journey too. Maybe contact the seller for their view. But I'm guessing loosening and retightening the two bolts that secure the clutch would be a good start... I'd replace the spring at the same time. But that's me.

[@user-nj7sf9pb6b]

Does anyone know the size of the fuel lines from the fuel tank to the carb?Maybey 3mm but can"t be sure

[@BoilerDan1]

When I replaced mine, I purchased a set including several sizes and just picked the one that fit. Here’s a link to what I used: HIFROM 4-Feet Fuel Line Hose Tube (4 Size) I.D. x O.D. 3/32" x 3/16" 1/8" x 3/16" 1/8" x 1/4" 0.080" x 0.140" a.co/d/gjkhahA

[@1aladen]

Hi Can I keep the motor on in the water with keeping the motor on normal rpm and no watter coming out of the outlet coolant system?

[@BoilerDan1]

aladen siam No, you risk overheating the motor. So the issue needs fixed. Maybe try returning it to the seller. If that’s not possible, you should repair the clutch or maybe the water pump wheel. Not too difficult a task. Hope it works out for you.

[@1aladen]

Well I keep it on for an hour and half and nothing happens I think that happens because it's also air coolant not just water coolant But when I rise the rpm and propeller start to spin the watter start to come out of the water coolant outlet Any how I think I should do as you told me and as you made in the video to change the spring in the clutch or am thinking to take of the spring and do without the spring A note : I found out after I open it and like in it that the coolant watter is connected to the exhaust and the exhaust is going out all the way out from the watter coolant outlet..I don't know if you have the same thing with you?

[@BoilerDan1]

@@1aladen ; Yes, the water and exhaust will come out the same area some times. The water will only come out at higher speed. At low speed, only exhaust comes out. You are correct that it is both air and water cooled. If you take the spring out then the propeller will always turn. Slowly at idle speed. So if that is not a problem, then that might help. The bolts holding the clutch need to be tight, but not so tight that the clutch can't swing out to turn the propeller shaft. It sounds like you are saying that you are getting some water to come out when you are at higher speed. That is good. Maybe everything will work out to the good! Thank you for watching my videos.

[@1aladen]

Yes Thanks you to man

[@josuemelara5085]

Thak you is bean bery helpfull!!

[@BoilerDan1]

Josue Melara ; you’re welcome. There are several follow up videos, one important one is how to replace the clutch. Inexpensive but something you will have to do on a regular basis. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment!

[@josuemelara5085]

@@BoilerDan1 your welcome,I love to work in the same stuff,and since I live on a place "third world" that every thig is fixeble,no mater is is from china ore else where,...and your knowledge is greatly apreciate!!

[@jimdombroski]

What spark plug do you use?

[@BoilerDan1]

I made a follow up video that lists out that information right at the beginning of the video. Here’s a link to that segment: Hangkai outboard motor - Spark Plug Upgrade kzbin.info/www/bejne/gIbEeZ2tf7iaotk Thanks for watching 👍

[@polymful]

Jesus, I didn't realize this engine requires so much work. Dan, It's going to be the first time I am working with any kind of boat engines. You seem to have experience. Would you recommend to buy something that is simpler to operate such as 4 Stroke engine ? Do I need to break in the 4 Stroke engine as well? This is a lot of work.

[@BoilerDan1]

I had not done work on a motor since a class in junior high school, so I'm a novice at it too. The steps I took were really simple. Changing the spark plug to a better quality. Putting some bee wax on the starter cord. Other things I was just playing with as part of the experience. But in hindsight, the 4 stroke/cycle might have been a better choice. The two stroke resulted in me having 1/2 gallon of fuel/oil mix left from last summer that I don't want to use because it is probably stale... So I'm stuck trying to figure out how to get rid of it. The 4 cycle motor I could just put the extra fuel in my cars gas tank! But for the money I spent, I'm happy with the motor. We will see how it holds up over time. I don't go out fishing much, so it's not like it gets heavy use. Oh, and yes, you would still need to break in the 4 stroke model. But that is just varying your speeds and don't go full out throttle until it's been run for several hours at variable speeds.

[@polymful]

@@BoilerDan1 Thanks Dan. What type of grease/oil would you suggest to oil the parts mentioned in the video ? Also, which oil you use to mix in with gas ?

[@BoilerDan1]

I use a synthetic grease, and good quality will work fine for the part that is used to pivot the motor. For the gears down at the propeller I used SEA 90 hear lube. I found "Mercury" brand in Amazon . For the gas/oil mix, you'll need 2 stroke oil. I got Quicksilver marine lubricant 2stroke synthetic blend at Wal-Mart.

[@polymful]

@@BoilerDan1 Thanks, buddy

[@LuvThyMind29]

Does this thing not come with a hang tag/emissions certificate??

[@BoilerDan1]

No. At least not when I purchased mine, but that was a few years ago.

[@markbrown7449]

How long before the clutch news to be replaced ?

[@BoilerDan1]

Mine lasted two summers, but in hindsight I would just make it a part of routine maintenance….. It’ll last a lot longer if you replace the tension spring. Here’s a link to my video on how I replaced it. Clutch Spring Replacement (Viewers Request) kzbin.info/www/bejne/fWXUfapnadGZb80 I also made a video on replacing the clutch. Thanks for watching 👍

[@marcloranger1762]

Hi Dan and thanks for your video! I have been searching for a manual for my Hangkai 3.5 that I just bought used . Can you help me I prefer an on-line manual if possible?

[@BoilerDan1]

I’m happy to help. I’ll put a link to the companies website. It’s a little cumbersome to navigate but if you click around you can find helpful information. If you click on the right side near middle there’s a square with lines. Looks like piece of paper??? Anyway that is titled news, but is actually information that should help. You might find the information you need there. It’s the manufacturer’s website: m.hang-kai.com/en/nr.jsp Thanks for watching

[@BoilerDan1]

By the way….. You might follow my string of videos on the motor. I also show some repairs I made. 👍 One lesson: don’t over tighten any bolts….it’s aluminum and I stripped one out.😵‍💫

[@marcloranger1762]

@@BoilerDan1 Thanks Dan , I watched a lot of videos but yours is the most informative, I havent found your other videos yet, I am ne to youtube,lol

[@BoilerDan1]

Here’s a link that should take you to the entire list: kzbin.info/aero/PLjMZtm2hvqrOIvLcah1u1V45Y_R-AKeqm

[@marcloranger1762]

@@BoilerDan1 Dan thanks again for the list , I saw you use the red button on the top of the motor , kill switch I imagine , I tried . I held it down and nothing happened . I had to kill it by flooding it? Also I also watched open the shroud and I cant figure out what you did to open it?

[@joshuahendy1212]

Hi, what gear oil do I need to use?

[@BoilerDan1]

Manufacturer recommends SAE90 weight. I also have used full synthetic 75w-90. Do not full it all the way, there needs to be a small air pocket to allow for expansion. If you look closely I think there's a line about 1/4 inch from the top. Thanks for watching! 😁

[@kittylikwanify]

I would ask some questions about this type . 3.5 2Stroke Hangkai(new) The engine work ,but the propeller isn't roll,someone know what's happening ?

[@kurtphillips814]

I’m having the same problem did you figure out what was wrong with yours?

[@Sailing_Bungaree]

Mine too. I suspect it is lacking gear oil. Can’t get prop off yet

[@Rattlerjake1]

The propeller doesn't spin at idle, it only spins a above 50% throttle.

[@voulieav]

excellent

[@BoilerDan1]

Thanks, just documented my experience with the motor. 👍👍

[@waleedamoun6796]

hi I want to know how I can find the part between carburetor and engine body

[@BoilerDan1]

That’ll take a little research on my part. Unfortunately I’m on vacation and won’t be able to to check for a week or so.

[@BoilerDan1]

Here’s the best I can come up with. eBay sells the entire carburetor for under $20. Here’s the link to one of them: www.ebay.com/itm/323898943648

[@outdoor2161]

What fuel should I use? Diesel or petroleum?

[@BoilerDan1]

Petroleum, but you’ll need to add 2 cycle oil with the fuel.. Thanks for watching 👍

[@maxdavidson9306]

Hi can someone help me? Does this engine come with a ripcord?

[@BoilerDan1]

Mine came with a spare pull start unit. You can also purchase the units through eBay and Amazon. But as far as just a cord to wrap and give it a pull, No. Thanks for watching.

[@mhel1angel308]

Update on this motor dan? Still running good?

[@BoilerDan1]

Yes but as I’m getting older the inflatable raft and floor is kind of a pain. Also spring rains have the close location not usable. But the motor itself with the new clutch and lighter spring is going great in a big tub of water 😂😩

[@JeffDeanTheDeanZone]

1. What pin do you remove to fill prop with gear oil 2. What kind of gear oil do you use? 3. What kind of grease do I use to grease the pivot point? I'll ask more questions as I watch this video, so far, it has only been slightly helpful. I knew I would have to put oil in it but did not know where to put the oil and your video is so vague it didn't really help me. 3:14 Fuel Mixture? It's an electric motor. ROFL It runs off 2 24v 120AH batteries wired in series according to the manufacturer's manual

[@BoilerDan1]

There’s just two bolts holding the cap on at the backside of the propeller. Be careful not to over tighten them. Also do not completely fill the area with gear oil. Look closely, there’s a line a little below the top that you fill to. 90 weight gear oil To grease the pivot point it’s just standard automotive grease. You’ll need an inexpensive grease gun to inject it into the shaft. Here’s a link showing me changing the gear oil and the two bolts. Thanks for watching 👍 kzbin.info/www/bejne/hHSkfYdpgrB0e80

[@nunyabiznes8818]

great, helpful video. It made me realize that I DO NOT want to buy one of these

[@BoilerDan1]

I totally understand! That's why I started the video, to track what occurs with mine and any repairs. I've been fortunate in that I have been able to figure out what was wrong, and the costs were minimal. But I'm happy to have helped you make the decision that is right for you. :0)

[@adrianagonzalez6924]

What type of grease did you use ?

[@BoilerDan1]

For the propeller gears it’s 90 weight gear lube. But I’ve been told you can use a full synthetic product that has different numbers that will work. For the pivot of the motor, just regular automotive grease. Thanks for watching!

[@NoahBailie]

what would happen if you dont break it in?

[@BoilerDan1]

I'm not an expert on that issue. You could use it during break in, just vary your speed and don't go full speed. So the break in doesn't require being done on land in a bucket. For example you could take it out and run it a various speeds maybe for 10-15 minutes at one speed then go up or down slightly. The important thing would be the fuel to oil mix at 35:1 for at least 10 hours of operation. Then you can work up to the 50:1 mix

[@richardtominaga8957]

You break it...

[@mssfishingchannel9157]

Hi mr dan..my hangkai 3.6hp not flowing water thru the exzos..only smoke..and my field test my engine running wheezing..why this thing happend..

[@BoilerDan1]

I can’t know for sure. Water will only come out when you accelerate enough that the propeller is turning. If the propeller isn’t turning, you might need a new clutch. The water pump is just a simple paddle wheel that attached to the shaft near the propeller. If the paddle fins have broken off, you just need to replace the water pump wheel. Here’s a link to all the videos that I posted. Check out the ones regarding clutch repairs for possible help. kzbin.info/aero/PLjMZtm2hvqrOIvLcah1u1V45Y_R-AKeqm

[@mssfishingchannel9157]

@@BoilerDan1 water problem solved after i put flexible wired thru water hole until the wired exit at the water inlet near the propeller..might be something blocked the water channel..

[@BoilerDan1]

Good job! Yes, I think there must have been a small piece of debris that the pump sucked in and it got stuck in the tube. Thanks for letting us all know! I’m sure it’ll help someone else out too! Thanks for watching 👍

[@Itsnick85]

Is there an advantages of the 3.5 vs the 3.6 ?

[@BoilerDan1]

The 3.6 is a newer version. The cover comes off easier and is a plastic material. The motor itself is the same as far as I can tell. But I prefer the not having to take screws out to open up the cover. Thanks for watching. I've made several videos on the motor. Might check most all of them to know what you'd be considering.

[@Itsnick85]

@@BoilerDan1 Thanks. I really appreciate the time you spent making the videos to help out the people interested in the motor. Seems like I can avoid a few mistakes that people made before going and giving the motor bad reviews.

[@user-ht3cv1zw3h]

My boat is not a rubber boat. It is V type's sleek boat and only 25 kilograms go. I am 73 kilograms. When I alone in the boat and run the fastest on the hangkai 4 stroke 3.6hp I get 8 kilometers per hour. I think it's too slow I want to know is this normal?

[@BoilerDan1]

Both the 4 stoke and 2 stroke are not speed motors for sure. Kind of like a trolling motor with out batteries. :0)

[@BoilerDan1]

That is normal for these small motors.

[@Rattlerjake1]

They are not designed to water ski behind (LOL), they are made for use in ponds and small lakes.

[@cjtubeify]

Wat if the water cooling system isnt working

[@BoilerDan1]

cjtubeify, the motor comes with an additional water pump wheel. I’ve not changed one yet, but it looks doable. The motor will not pump water at low idle speed. But if you run the motor at normal speed without the water cooling you could overheat and damage the motor. Note, they make a similar motor that is air cooled, no water involved with that style. I think it’s 4hp. Subscribe to my channel and if or when I need to change the water pump, I’ll post a video.

[@heritagelandscapedallas]

Specific issue, can't get the bulb to fill with fuel. Change filter in the tank, lines are new, primer bulb isn't cracked, took carb apart to see if debris. Cleaned and reassembled. No luck, Your thoughts appreciated. It's new. Land stranded in Texas.

[@BoilerDan1]

Hmmm, I’m as stumped as you are? Only thing I can think of is switch the fuel lines? Maybe the wrong line is going to the fuel bulb? Other than that, there has to be a air leak preventing the pumping action to work? Sorry I can’t be any more helpful. I just returned from Mustang Island Texas! Indiana 19 degrees last night! Should have stayed in Texas! 😁👍 Last thought: replace the bulb….

[@heritagelandscapedallas]

@@BoilerDan1 will give it a try!

[@BoilerDan1]

Let us all know how it works out. Might help someone else out in future. 👍

[@heritagelandscapedallas]

one tube is clear, the return line and pushes fuel into the tank. the black line is the suction line. Prior to this the filter was filthy with white substance. Put in ordinary filter for two cycle engine. Also sprayed soapy water while priming. Still no results. - bulb empty.

[@BoilerDan1]

I’m at a loss too? Sorry.😵‍💫

[@markbrown7449]

BoilerDan1, I need this motor like I need a hole in tha head, but that's another subject. I've been lookin at this motor for some time, but nobody has got into detail of the true operation of it, what to do and not do. How the break-in works and what to expect. I know up front it's cheap and made across tha pond, but then again what really isn't ? Are parts easy to come by ? Can this motor be modified ? What's your idea bout replacing the fuel line right off tha bat for a better one ? The spark plug replacement is a no brainer. What weight gear oil ? Like I said, I need this like a hole in the head, but I want it just tha same..

[@BoilerDan1]

We sound a lot alike, I didn't need it either, just bought it to play around with! First thing you need to have on hand for future use: Clutch replacement: Here's a sample, but you can enter the info about HONDA GX31 GX35 GX35NT Fit MITSUBISHI TL33 TL43 TL52 T180 T200 T240 Bush Cutter Tiller Trimmer Strimmer as that is what fits. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07J6F4J6M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 If you watch all my video's, I recommend replacing the clutch spring with a lighter weight one as it will improve it working and lasting longer. Fuel lines. I'd keep the ones on it for the first season then replace them. It's the ethanol fuel that eats them up. I think they are now making ethanol friendly fuel lines.... Break-in: Actually you can break it in while using. Just very your speed every 5 minutes or so. The way I did it isn't the best, I just don't have water around me and I purchased mine in the winter. You need to keep cooling water running if you do it in a barrel or bucket and I didn't point that out in my videos.... I was pouring snow in the bucket constantly.... Don't want to get it overheated...although I've since been told that it's as much air cooled as water cooled... If I had it to do over again, I'd consider the air cooled 4 stroke model....In hopes it would be quieter? The gear oil can be the full synthetic kind for the best protection, I think the manual says 90 weight. Here's a link to the manufacturers web site: Look under the tab for "Articles" and you will find a lot of information and trouble shooting stuff: www.hang-kai.com/en/nr.jsp I tried to copy the link to that page? The pull starter is another issue that you will want to have on hand. Mine came with two. If you remove than handle and the string gets pulled in to the winder it's a goner! No way I could figure out how to get the spring re-tightened. The rope will wear out too. Coating with bee wax will lengthen its life. You can order those too: eBay: www.ebay.com/itm/324402571624?hash=item4b87e66968:g:dUYAAOSw~~RfyFDn You can also find the little carburetor, just do some searching... They are pretty much all the same little gizmo. Hope that helps? I don't know much about modifying the motor, but it's easy to work on! Aluminum, so don't overtighten the bolts and screws! But the block itself seems very solid! It's the little things that are cheap! But I have had a lot of fun with it... But it's a noisy little bugger, not great for trolling...But it'll get you to the other side of the pond.... It'll be better on a solid small craft....My little raft was too spongy, causing me to lose some thrust and power. Enjoy your adventure! Thanks for watching 👍

[@jaybrowning2225]

So after break in I can go to 50-1 ??

[@BoilerDan1]

Yes, after breaking in the motor, change the mix to 50/1. It will burn cleaner. Also it’s better to break the motor in out on the lake, not in a bucket or barrel. You must keep cool water running if in a barrel. I kept adding snow as it was winter when I got it..😂👍

[@JWBegor]

Boilerdan1, how long have you been running this motor? I’m interested in buying one.

[@BoilerDan1]

I would estimate that I've run it between 30-40 hours. Just realize that it is a small motor with not a lot of power. But for my needs, it's fine and I'm having fun with it. It's also a little noisy, but fun to play around with.

[@JWBegor]

BoilerDan1 I’m wishing I bought this instead of my Evinrude Lightwin. It’s been nothing but a headache.

[@peterkay7458]

Jw could you elaborate so the rest of can ignore Fiveo who I sincerely believe is spot on about a used Evi or Merc being far superior to anything made in china..i got two china bikes, the china commuter 110 cc runs like a champ after six years of hard riding and zero care, the 70 cc had a sudden and abrupt death due to a lack of fuel filter and a beyond shitty air filter which let in so much dust the compression ration blows now and it wont start........all because of a $5 air filter cheap out IDENTICAL TO THE AIR IN THE STAE OF THIS VEDIO tyan so much form making it Dan!

[@JWBegor]

happy loser my light twin has lost spark multiple times, replaced coils on multiple occasions, and the coil plate ended up being cracked. So the spark wasn’t making it to the plug. Couldn’t find the part I needed so I cut my losses and sold it. Mind you this was a late 60s evinrude, not a newer one. I have a 57 light twin now that runs flawlessly, but the recoil just broke on it. Reels in and out, but doesn’t start the engine. My 47 Elgin runs like a top, starts every second pull when it’s cold. But you have to wind the recoil rope yourself. A small price to pay. Honestly I think I am going to replace the light twin recoil and sell it. Keep the Elgin and buy a newer Chinese or US manufacture engine.

[@MartialArtsTutorialsFighttips]

Does the 6hp has the same issue

[@BoilerDan1]

Regarding spark plugs I would change them. I'm not familiar with the 6hp motor. Assuming it is a 4 cycle, I would assume it would be quieter? Sorry I can't be of more help on this one.

[@MartialArtsTutorialsFighttips]

@@BoilerDan1 ok thanks i will do so

[@phungvanhien7473]

i check on the hangkai website the price of motor 3.6 HP 4 stroke and 3.6 HP 2 stroke is similar. Can you advise which one i should to buy ?. Thanks

[@BoilerDan1]

I purchased through eBay as the price was less. The advantage of the 4 stroke is you do not mix oil and gas. It also is air cooled. I choose the 2 stroke because I have to lay the motor on its side to transport it. With the oil and gas mixed, there is less risk of spilling and I have heard that laying the 4 stroke on its side can result in oil causing some problem. But the choice is yours to make. Maybe research some more on the differences will help you decide.

[@kaneda956]

BoilerDan1 4 strokes ya gotta lie em down with the oil pan down... That will prevent oil from leaking into cylinders . usually most mercs have a label that says " this side down"... Lay my merc 3.5 4 stroke on that side.. No problems at all

[@fiveowaf454]

I wouldn't buy either, get a few more $ and buy a real outboard from one of the online sellers or find a lightly used second hand model. These outboards don't sell for much less than those from established and reputable manufacturers.

[@peterkay7458]

Fiveo here demand far exceeds supply for the below 15 hp because the fisherman use them as trolling motors so man are they hard to find...ones over 40 HP hard to find but exact same price as 9.9 hp the defacto industry standard....not too big and never too small unlike the 2, 4, and 6-8 hp

[@richardtominaga8957]

I would go 4 stroke if you want it quieter & don't wanna hassle mixing the gas

[@polymful]

How much does your engine weights ? How reliable is it, does it start every time?

[@BoilerDan1]

Weight is 22.0462 Lbs. Mine has always started, but I've only had it for one summer. I'll soon make several short videos featuring questions from viewers like you. I'll film my attempt at starting this spring, so keep watching. That's not to say the motor has not experienced any problems! It seems sound as far as the motor itself, but the little things need to be paid attention to. Examples: Soon after purchase, it wouldn't start! I luckily discovered it was a defective spark plug... So a viewer recommended NGK spark plug. I did that and have not had any problem with that sense then. I had a fuel line rot out. I had the cut out switch wire slip off its connecting terminal. That was minor, but still something to look for if the motor stops. I had a starter pull rope catch and tear.... But when I replaced it, I rubbed bee wax on the new cord and have not had any more pull cord problems. Thanks for watching and commenting.

[@polymful]

@@BoilerDan1 Does it make a lot of noise ? I know two-tact motors are used in motorcycles and they are very very noisy! I am just trying to think if it's worth buying it. I don't have a garage. Would need to store it in my apartment. What do you think?

[@BoilerDan1]

It is a bit loud.... It's kind of like a weed wacker with a propellar instead of string. The exhaust port is under water so that deadends some of the noise. I tried to put some sound deadning pad inside the housing but it really hasn't helped much. As far as storing in an aparment goes... It is light weight. Being two cycle, there is no oil left inside it to spill. You can simply unscrew the tank from the motor then pour out the fuel, so there wouldn't be any gas/oil mix inside it. But you also might need to work on it sometimes....Ie... fuel line replacement, starter cord replacement. Nothing that hard so far for me. A sturdy table outside (picknic table?) or even the ground I supose. I would also make sure you buy a new one. Used you run the risk of someone not breaking it in properly or failing to have put gear oil in... I'll make some update video's soon, so keep checking, I'll cover what ever comes up with mine. No need for you to rush into buying one.

[@polymful]

@@BoilerDan1 Thanks, buddy. Well, the spring is here so this would be the time for me to buy it. You were very helpful, and I look forward to see more videos. If the only advantage of the four-tact motor is that you can reuse the gas, then two-tact it is! I doubt anything happens to your oil-gas mix, as long as they are in airtight container (I am a chemist).

[@BoilerDan1]

@@polymful; I don't like mixing the oil/gas, and I did have some leftover..... I used a metal Tiki Torch and burned it off, so I'd have fresh this year. I will also mix a lot less, probably mix as I go in the small mixing container that came with the motor. I also purchase the highest test fuel in hopes it has less ethanol in it? I'll add a short video on that topic once I get time and topics figured out.... I did read that with the 4 cycle motor, if you lay it down, it needs to go to one specific side or the oil will leak out? But if you can leave it upright in transporting, it might be the better choice.

[@rickhaney316]

Where do you buy parts

[@BoilerDan1]

I’ve found things on both Amazon and eBay. Here’s a couple examples of parts that tend to need replacement: www.ebay.com/itm/Recoil-Starter-Pull-Start-for-2-stroke-Outboard-Motor-2hp-3-5hp-Hnagkai-Boat-Eng-/324402571624?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0 Clutch Drive Bolt Washers For... www.amazon.com/dp/B07J6F4J6M?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

[@alekswhy88]

Is it normal for it to spew water out the top vent port? As well as out of lower screw holes on each side on engine? I made a video I'll post it ahortly

[@BoilerDan1]

Not to worry. If I understand you correctly, the top of the vent post could mean that there’s something blocking the bottom holes that it usually comes out of. There is a single screw holding it on. You can remove it and make sure the pathway is clear. Regarding some water coming out on the two sides of the engine cover is probably from the rubber waterlines at the place the connect to go into and out of the motor. It has two pinch type clamps that are pretty cheap. You could replace them with a better clamp that screws tight. But that water is harmless. But a little annoying. I also understand your concern when it happened. Thanks for watching and I hope my thoughts have been helpful for your motor. Take the cover off to see more clearly, and confirm that my thoughts are accurate or not. 👍

[@alekswhy88]

@@BoilerDan1 hey thanks for the fast response! Yes your video has been great help! I've followed everything as you suggested in terms of replacing things. I will post a video shortly today. Mind watching to see if that's the case? I did take off both covers and I did not notice it coming out from the rubber tubes where they attach at any point? Only from the screw holes that hold the cover on each side. I found that strange. Quite a bit of smoke is normal too during break in? Thanks for all your help! Taking my son out on my canoe for the first time next weekend and I want everything working!

[@alekswhy88]

@@BoilerDan1 kzbin.info/www/bejne/gXmofHaifq5-mpI

[@BoilerDan1]

During break in, the fuel oil mixture is a little rich on oil and thus the smoke. If you’ve gotten a few hours on it, maybe a mix of 40:1 ?.... once you are done with breaking it in, the 50:1 mix will run clean with no smoke or oily residue. I’ll check out your video sometime this morning. 👍👍

[@BoilerDan1]

IMPORTANT: I’m starting to watch yours and realized that.... I broke mine in , in the winter and kept adding snow to keep the water cool. Run a hose in your bucket so you don’t over heat it. You can also break it in while using it 👍