Modeling Realistic Scenery Series | The Low Tide Beach - Vlog #36

[@boomerdiorama]

The "Wet-on-Wet" technique in five simple steps: 1. Spray water to wet down. 2. Stab in some earth color. 3. Spray down again. 4. Watch it run and form it's own filter. 5. Wash, Rinse, Repeat to taste.

[@florianpolasik2496]

Yours are the first videos I go to when I open KZbin. Always inspirational and full of ideas. I am just getting back into model railroading after being away from it for 40+ years. Boy have things changed.

[@boomerdiorama]

That is awesome! It's fantastic hobby for certain. Cheers.

[@wethepeople7961]

Nice , Boomer all charged up over resin. What you have been teaching me and the rest of the community is how to 'scratch' build everything. Using anything we feel is suitable to use. I have never used resin. I have always steered away from water features because I couldn't make water from scratch. Resin is the answer for someone like me based on the reason I gave. I look forward to your lessons on how to create realistic water from everything but resin.Thanks & Cheers Boomer😃

[@boomerdiorama]

Well you summed it up really by being honest about it. It's funny how we always think water to be a crystal clear mountain lake or something. The method is fine if the individual wants it. In this particular case, (very muddy and opaque), you can't see one inch past the surface even though the Fraser is fresh water. Once the river is below the tide boundary (Mission, B.C.) it is mostly sand and mud. Therefore, absolutely no need to pour resin. It's more important to me to get the color right and then gloss it over some with texture, indications of current, etc. Cheers ~ Boomer.

[@Vman7757]

Wow. just wow. Can't wait to see how you actually do the water. I'm betting it will be amazing.

[@boomerdiorama]

Well . . . that is only so if you think the muddy color of Fraser River is amazing . . . lol.

[@kenfolstad1346]

I was thinking of commenting the thing

[@michaeltrufitt5477]

Just love the attention to detail and the explanation of how and why you do things and seeing the end result just brilliant thanks Boomer 😀👍

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank you very much!

[@FunWithHOScaleStuff]

I turn the audio off when the commercial runs.. but I do let them run. You have delivered such amazing high quality vlog material that in return you have asked for very little for the viewers to watch the commercials. My pleasure, sir.

[@boomerdiorama]

What can I say? The channel has one of the best model railroad communities on KZbin! Cheers ~ Boomer.😁

[@GrandTrunkWestern85]

Say Uncle Boomer, really enjoy the music you've been using. Take care Freddy.

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank You Frederick! Cheers ~ Boomer.

[@mr.shadestrains6033]

6️⃣0️⃣3️⃣🚂😎. Awsum ❤️🚂. Amazing 👍👍👍👍👍 Wicked kool 😎👍👍👍👍👍

[@boomerdiorama]

Thanks again! Cheers to you Sir! ~ Boomer.

[@K27fan]

Excellent tutorial. I have dry brushed almost everything for years. And you are right, your brush needs to be almost bone dry. I will get mine so dry I have to scrub to get paint off. You can always add more but if you put too much on, then you have to start all over with your base color. I am enjoying your videos immensely.

[@boomerdiorama]

Great tip! This is why I use "Oil" paint brushes. The bristles can handle the abuse more, especially when dry-brushing scenery elements. There is a place for a soft brush as well, but they wear out pretty fast. Cheers ~ Boomer.

[@68Jaguar420G]

Nice colouring and texture Boomer. I had thought you went too far with the umber and lost a lot of texture and detail but the dry brushing brought it back nicely and eventually further improved it. Lots of techniques to start learning and trying myself in this single video. Thanks for sharing and now knowing how much you get from an advertisement I'll let them run to the end in future.

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank You. This method can seem rather unsettling like you mentioned about getting too dark. The nice thing about acrylic opaqueness is, it covers up other layers well if you want it to. Cheers and thank you! ~ Boomer.

[@hoseman8001]

Hello, I'm glad I ask about the resin for water. Thanks for more opinion on it so I won't try resin again. Can't wait to see the steps on making the river and especially how the water meets the beach area... keep it up and thanks again.

[@boomerdiorama]

Glad it was helpful! In the end you have to go with whatever you desire. Some use resin and I still respect them for using it. I just don't like the stuff based on my personal experience and opinion. Cheers.

[@theangelsmodellingandrailways]

The wet on wet technique is sooo simple, I didn't know about it until now, but wow, the effect is stunning, recreating natures work. The dry brushing brings it all to the next level, Another 'banger' Boomer. Best explanation on the dangers of resin ruining your fine modelling work. All the best. Brian @ The Angels

[@boomerdiorama]

My pleasure 😊 The wert-on-wet technique sounds complicated but like you said, it's super simple once you get into it. 1. Spray water to wet down. 2. Stab in some earth color. 3. Spray down again. 4. Watch it run and form it's own filter. 5. Wash, Rinse, Repeat to taste. Cheers!

[@NicholassTrainChannel]

Brilliant as usual Boomer. Look forward to the video on addin the water.- Nicholas.

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank You! Cheers ~ Boomer.

[@patmccarthy1624]

Very subtle highlighting with your drybrushing. Superb lesson. I agree on the resin water. It never looks realistic. Thanks for another great lesson!

[@boomerdiorama]

Glad it was helpful!

[@davestrains6816]

Like watching Picasso. Just amazing.

[@boomerdiorama]

I'll take it but I don't think so . . . lol. Cheers.

[@205004gs]

Wow, another powerful tutorial! Thanks for stressing the point to not rush your work for I've learned the hard way with weathering, if your rush, it's gonna flop. So thanks for sharing. The rocky shoreline looks so realistic with the dry brushing you can see all the little cracks and crevices come to life! Stunning work and have a great day.👍

[@boomerdiorama]

Yes and thank you. Dry brushing brings out details we never knew were there. You can accomplish similar results with an airbrush as well . . . but not the micro ridges , etc, that only a traditional brush can pick up. ~ Boomer.

[@bobainsworth5057]

You have spent more time on the beach and reef then I spent on 20ft. of my layout ( first phase) . That is a good thing .I wish I could calm my mind down to do it. Your inspiring me to try, ( second phase). However right now I have some track work to complete. Then I want to try. Thanks again!

[@boomerdiorama]

I'm into the second phase now. Greening up with low ground foliage. Cheers Bob!

[@Bunyip_Studios]

Totally agree with you on the resin. Ruined a project with it wicking up into the static grass, luckily it was only a small one. Acrylic mediums are definitely the was to do it

[@boomerdiorama]

Acrylic has way more options and greater control. You also learn more "artistically" using acrylics. You don't learn anything pouring two part epoxy resin into a hole. 🤣

[@dryheat6907]

Boomer, I've said it before but I have to say it again: another Master's class in technique. You put so much into a 28 minute lesson...thank you again for your efforts here. And once again you showed a product I had not seen before used in a powerful way: aluminum oxide abrasive for modeling beach sand. My layout is going to be centered on the desert/mountain southwest and there are plenty of applications of your "beach" techniques far from the beach! Think many desert dry washes. One question: I searched online and can find a Paasche Airbrush Aluminum Oxide abrasive powder like your Badger product made for use in etching or air erasers like you mentioned. It comes in the same type 5 lb jar as yours but offered in either a 240 grit or 400 grit. I couldn't read a grit category on your jar even when I froze the video. I would like the size and texture of what you used for my HO scale landscape--any idea of what grit yours is? Thanks again! Mike

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank You! My sand is around 240 to 300 grit. 400 must be super fine. Could be nice to have both on hand though. One can never have enough textures when modeling terrain, especially the way you indicate. A desert scene would be awesome to model. I would love to do a Southern California SP Diorama some day. The desert has a beauty all it's own. The textures and sepia colors would be awesome. Cheers ~ Boomer.

[@marka87]

Lovely work as per usual, some real inspiration and great techniques. Thanks so much for your content.

[@boomerdiorama]

My pleasure!

[@SilentGloves]

Boomer, I have this thing were I can't enter a series mid-way through. Just can't do it. Can't watch a single episode of a sitcom even. I watch the entire thing, beginning to end, or not at all. So anyway, that's why you're getting this comment on an old video. First, I want to say I'm really enjoying following along; Rhythm Railroad mentioned your channel, so here I am. Secondly, when you mentioned that you wouldn't be doing resin a few videos back, I was like "whhhhaaaat?" but I held my tongue, since you said you'd get to it. I'm 44, and am brand new to model railroad.... seems like everyone does resin, but my hair is gray enough to know you would have your reasons. Seems like there is loads of experience in your opinions, and just want to say I appreciate you sharing that experience with us. 🙂

[@boomerdiorama]

Resin is a "quickie" (mainstream) thing with too many ugly caveats. It is also very expensive. I prefer to to use paint and acrylic gels. Epoxy resin was invented for hippie coffee tables in the seventies. Epoxy pouring resin destroys the shoreline details (with ugly creep) and anything you put on it. The real artists don't pour creepy stickie resin into cavities with ridiculous - out of scale reflections as well. ;-) Thanks for sharing and supporting the channel. Make sure you have fun with your railroad! Cheers ~ Boomer.

[@SilentGloves]

@@boomerdiorama I'm so tempted to skip ahead to the payoff, but I'm not going to! I have designed a little 7' x 9.5" n scale interchange/switching layout for the back of my office, but all I've built so far is the benchwork and sub-road bed... I'm working on it. It's really a proof of concept/ability more than anything. I want to get as many failures out of the way as possible on something small and manageable. Crawl before walking, ya know? Cheers!

[@boomerdiorama]

@@SilentGloves Nice size for N scale.😁

[@rexrockwell1517]

You inspire me. Thank you.

[@volodymyrrhapon5666]

Me too.

[@boomerdiorama]

You are so welcome! ~ Boomer.

[@volodymyrrhapon5666]

@@boomerdiorama I 'm so thankful .

[@edwardconway5955]

Very well done and informative. Hopefully I can absorb enough of your guidance to improve my armor dioramas. Thank you, Ed

[@boomerdiorama]

Glad it was helpful! The beauty of weathering terrain is it helps crush the learning curve associated with our precious models because terrain is so forgiving of our mistakes. The weathering principle for model subjects is the same in many ways as well. Cheers.

[@schadowolf]

Such a beautiful area and so well modeled!

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank you very much!

[@generalsb6332]

Hey there… question and a comment. First, re. Commercials on your channel. In order to make the income from the commercials, is it only applicable if the whole advertisement is watched? Comment. Love the music accompaniment during your demonstration segments, but man…. They are very relaxing… my eyelids get a little heavy sometimes. Lol. Keep up the great tutorials. Very inspiring and informative.

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank you. Good question on the commercials. They never give a clear answer on that one. It has to be beyond the 5 second mark I do know that. How much past may be based on a percentage. Some people open up another browser first, then play the video, then pull the video up on another tab to watch, after the first one is initialized. The first run gets the revenue. Cheers.

[@generalsb6332]

@@boomerdiorama Thank you sir. I will watch them fully going forward. If it benefits you and helps support your you and your content, happy to do it.

[@peterainsworth8466]

I love it! I value all the time content creators spend when it's high quality. Thank you. 👍

[@boomerdiorama]

Glad you enjoy it!

[@WHJeffB]

Fantastic use of color and texture! Really enjoying your videos and modeling... You are absolutely correct, no IPA with Vallejo. I have really good luck with windshield washer fluid (for airbrushing), but that's probably too toxic to use on large areas without ventilation. Interesting and valuable take on resin... Not going to argue, but some of the guys that still use resin, only use it as a base over which they apply gloss medium, gloss Mod Podge or some sort of acrylic gloss floor finish (because it dries pretty hard as opposed to rubbery like artists mediums). Luke Towan does this with all his water and it looks great and hides or disguises "resin creep". Looking forward to seeing your water effects...

[@boomerdiorama]

I have spotted "resin creep" with Luke as well even though he hides it well. I can spot it . . . lol. It happens to all of us. Thank you for sharing. Cheers.

[@WHJeffB]

@@boomerdiorama Well... I didn't say it didn't happen to Luke, I just said he disguised it with an application of gloss medium or gloss Mod Podge. :) Looking forward to seeing your results, I'm sure they're going to be as spectacular as the rock work and sand bar.

[@boomerdiorama]

@@WHJeffB Yes, for sure. For certain styles of build it can work. However, if you plan a dense and ultra realistic shoreline with multi media, strata and details, pouring resin is not the way to go in my opinion because it wicks into all the fibers, details, etc, leaving an ugly slope of creeping resin which won't go away. Cheers.

[@schadowolf]

Simply Amazing Art Work. I am in awe....

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank you so much 😀

[@AllThingsRailroad]

Thats a form of art right there

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank You. It's how I see and experience it. Most model railroaders are artists anyway. They just have not come around to admitting it because people get hung up on the stigma. Cheers.

[@AllThingsRailroad]

@@boomerdiorama Yeah im not a fan of the stigma about model railroaders or railfans in general, Im a former Conductor for the Union Pacific and its a shame theres division between railroaders and railfans. Im trying to bridge that gap through video games.

[@boomerdiorama]

@@AllThingsRailroad I have a few friends who were railroaders. No problem there. They follow the channel and chime in now-and-again. Great people - railroad people - in my experience. Cheers.

[@AllThingsRailroad]

@@boomerdiorama good to hear hopefully we can get more railroaders like them, cheers.

[@boomerdiorama]

@@AllThingsRailroad Sounds good. I always like and appreciate the real railroaders when they comment. They don't say much but when they do I listen. Cheers.

[@mr.e1944]

Awesome video! The beach looks great. I don’t use epoxy for water. For some reason I just did’t like it. I also thought it was strange to make a deep area just to fill it up and I could do the same thing with a flat surface with paint. I look forward to seeing how you do your water. Thanks for a your hard work Boomer!

[@boomerdiorama]

Great point! It's too bad a whole generation of otherwise great modelers have been indoctrinated with two part resin as if it makes their otherwise respectable layout look better. Cheers.

[@mr.e1944]

@@boomerdiorama Looking forward to more of your great videos!

[@boomerdiorama]

@@mr.e1944 Sounds good! Cheers.

[@boomerdiorama]

@@mr.e1944 Me too!

[@schadowolf]

What an amazing tutorial. Notes taken!

[@boomerdiorama]

Awesome! Thank you!

[@harperlarry49]

One of the things I really like about your videos is your frank, from the heart honesty. And then there's your crazy mad skills. I also like that you continue to remind us that modeling a scene is all about layers. Nothing has to be completed in one pass. Thank you for sharing. Cheers - Larry.

[@boomerdiorama]

I appreciate that! I do tend to "shoot from the hip" on things I am dogmatic about if I have good reason for it. But that is the "Boomer" way . . . lol.

[@IronHorseRailways]

Dry brushing really is like magic, works so well for scenics and stock 👍 Enjoyed this extended video sir, was a pleasure to watch 😊 The whole shoreline is looking amazing!

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank you! Cheers! I will probably tweak it some once it is planted. Cheers.

[@paulhayton3423]

Pretty cool Boomer.. couldn't agree more on the resin, I have attempted neither but the wicking and surface tension has always been off putting..

[@boomerdiorama]

Can you imagine a slender shore-line at low-tide with delicate details modeled in like; weeds, reeds, a rope, a chain, a ladder, etc. and then have resin suck it all up? I made a beautiful diorama once of a Trophy Trout Lake Shoreline and the resin killed it. It's a deceptive quick fix and destroyer of art in my opinion. It takes too much prep and work to make it work,. Even then, the risk is always there. Cheers.

[@SouthernAlbertaRail]

Love the take on epoxy even though I use it from time to time. That being said I won't use the Envirotex brand. Bad experiences in the past... all the things you pointed out. Have found some that works much better but, if not worked carefully, can still suffer the same pitfalls described. Hated Envirotex for it's viscosity and long set and cure time. As always entertained by your take on things. Take care Boomer. -grant

[@boomerdiorama]

I agree. Clearly It has a purpose in the hobby. I abandoned it decades ago for good reason as you mentioned. But life goes on and paint is a worthy substitute. Thanks for viewing it objectively Grant. Cheers.

[@shanestrains4724]

Stunning! 🙂👍

[@boomerdiorama]

Many thanks!

[@spikesp9223]

I've had pretty good luck cleaning the Vallejo with Windex.

[@boomerdiorama]

Good to know! Thanks for sharing that as well. Cheers ~ Boomer.

[@FredWilbury]

Love that reference picture Boomer 👌😂 fred ps I’m using clear PVA layering with citadel washes added. Pps an amazing build inspirational. Sorry Boomer had add some more whilst watching this remembered I’d poured some and forgot so had rush to the shed and try sort it out , I think your right I might redo this scenario I’m doing 😢

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank You. Sounds great! PVA works just as well. Citadel paints are great as well. Any acrylic hobby paint is pretty good now-a-days. Cheers.

[@lassunsschaun6859]

Thanks for those arguments *against* resin, that plus how your Fraser River develops till now 👍 and (how ever) onwards (it gona went we will see) ... ... a plan of a diorama about a bridge at Algarve Portugal is growing in my mind.

[@boomerdiorama]

No problem. Bridges are cool. In a way the Barge Slip is a bridge as well.

[@1BCamden]

Great workmanship

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank You. Cheers.

[@keithdenner9441]

Amazing work!

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank you! I'm really having fun with. Update coming soon! Cheers!

[@ozarkmidlandsouthernrailway]

Love your work. Very inspiring. I agree about the use of resin. I've used it in the past a couple of times and was never really satisfied with it. On my current railroad I'm going to use oil based paint and see how that looks and holds up over time. Love your techniques with matt medium. Bill B.

[@boomerdiorama]

Thanks for sharing! Acrylic paint (or latex) works for color, and then you can apply gloss mediums to add depth and character with total control. Cheers.

[@ozarkmidlandsouthernrailway]

@@boomerdiorama If the water effect is along an edge of the railroad like yours, are you confident that the acrylic paint will hold up well? I was thinking oil based would give a tougher finish?? Bill B.

[@boomerdiorama]

@@ozarkmidlandsouthernrailway High quality acrylic is more resilient than most oils by far. Furthermore, good quality artists gels (like Golden), won't yellow with age. Easy to repair or recoat as well. Cheers.

[@Vman7757]

Yeah you are right about the resin creep. But I learn form friends of mine who worked at Light an magic to use Vasoline painted on objects, post, trees, things, that will stick up out of the resin and on walls at water marks, just above the height that the resin will be. Then pour your resin. what happens when the resin cures it curls down on any touching edges. Then with Isopropyl Alcohol clean up the Vasoline. Then you fill that small gap created with gel medium. The result you get is perfect look. no creep. Takes some practice. but gives you control. Just a thought.

[@boomerdiorama]

O.K. If one wants to smear Vaseline everywhere on the model. In the movies, if that is what you are referring to, is 10 times the scale larger than any models we build. It's a whole different approach than model railroads and small dioramas. But then, why pour resin when the water being modelled is not clear?

[@Vman7757]

@@boomerdiorama No they were helping me with a project for Cal trans and Amtrak. And you just use it where you want to fight the creep. It worked for me. The layout was on 3 foot by 6 foot. They took it all around California and parts of the united states. It's just a cool little trick. But what I want to see is what you are going to do.

[@boomerdiorama]

@@Vman7757 Sounds good. I'm using paint and artists gels for the muddy Fraser. Cheers.

[@JoeG-firehousewhiskey]

I appreciate you going over the comments and questions people have on your channel, its very helpful. I was thinking of using Mod Podge for water, what do you think of that technique?

[@boomerdiorama]

Go for it! Go with what floats your boat . . . lol. I'm a little ways out from doing my water . . . but I am prepping for it. Cheers.

[@tonyl7418]

Boomer, amazing! Learning a lot here.

[@boomerdiorama]

Glad to hear it! Cheers.

[@DisVietVetUSA]

Just passing through today, working on HO to On30-Check ya on your next video montage

[@boomerdiorama]

Sounds good! It's controversial . . . lol.

[@iflyrattraps]

Great technique. I might have missed it but what grit is the aluminum oxide? it looks pretty fine.

[@boomerdiorama]

The grit is around 240 to 300. It doesn't say on the tub but if you check out the sand blasting supplier they will gladly show and tell. Cheers.

[@volodymyrrhapon5666]

I like it.

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank You Sir! Thanks for sharing that. Cheers ~ Boomer.

[@dkaustin98]

I'm going in a different direction. SE Arizona Mountain Desert scenery. I understand the layering concepts. One thing I never understood was the resin pour covered by Mod Podge. Why pour the resin to only cover it in Mod Podge. What are your thoughts on using Mod Podge to repersent moving water?

[@boomerdiorama]

Pouring water effects is up to each individual. I only stated I didn't like the method or the particular product. But have at her. I have never used Mod Podge. Although many of the artist products I use are similar. I think it all depends on the nature of the water, etc. I think getting the color of the water on the surface is more important. Then gloss mediums can be applied. Have a look at some of the outstanding ship model dioramas out there. They look fantastic and all they do is texture and paint with gloss mediums at the end. Go figure.

[@RoyEltham]

Looking fantastic, learning a lot. I think you maybe don't like resin, eh? :)

[@boomerdiorama]

Not at all. I still love the people who use it, I just won't endorse it. Thanks for sharing. Cheers.

[@OgaugeTrainsplusslotCars]

Thanks for sharing

[@boomerdiorama]

My pleasure! Cheers ~ Boomer.

[@OgaugeTrainsplusslotCars]

@@boomerdiorama New subscriber here

[@boomerdiorama]

@@OgaugeTrainsplusslotCars Oh Wow! Thank You and welcome aboard friend. Cheers.😁

[@PeterTillman3]

You have put me off resin forever lol

[@boomerdiorama]

Two part epoxy resin has a purpose in dioramas for sure. But it is unfavorable for "concave" corners. Several decades ago when I entered two dioramas in the international "Festival of the Arts," they rejected the one with two part resin (the subject was as shoreline scene). The curator/judge said it looked too gaudy (flashy) in comparison to the rest of the model which he liked. That was the end of epoxy resin for me. ~ Boomer.

[@PeterTillman3]

@@boomerdiorama I get it. There is something unreal about it but as you say the results are flashy.

[@boomerdiorama]

@@PeterTillman3 I understand the infatuation with it but it never seems to scale right due the super high gloss nature, but most notably, how it creeps up into everything leaving the ugly concave corner (and stains), which reflect the light unnaturally. You can hide some of the caveats with terrain features, etc. but it is so much work to wrestle with, not to mention the "risk" factor. I once ruined a beautiful carpet floor (and a concrete floor), with it back in the day. It finds a pin hole and leaches out overnight leaving the modelled surface ruined as well. I used it enough in the past. No more for me. Cheers.

[@PeterTillman3]

@@boomerdiorama wise words. I am looking forward to seeing how you do the water.

[@tas7997]

I've seen Mod Podge and paint for water that looked amazing! ☕🍻👍

[@michaeldjoven80]

Hi! Did you seal your plywood base before using all that water? Thank-you, Mike.

[@boomerdiorama]

Yes. I usually use varathane first. However, in this case, I used matte medium on the fly. I get lazy in my old age with "economy of motion." Matte medium is also an excellent sealer if you are feeling lazy and over budget . . . lol. I will seal the larger "water" surface with varathane first though. Then I'll paint acrylic over top, glazes, gloss coats etc. But yes, always a good idea to seal first with water-based varathane. I also use a fan in a heated room which helps evaporate the standing water fast as I mop up the residual water (glue) with a damp cloth. Cheers.

[@michaeldjoven80]

@@boomerdiorama Thank-you once again! Mike.

[@michaeldjoven80]

A follow-up, do you do this where you install the cork for the track. Oh yes Thank-you. Mike.

[@boomerdiorama]

@@michaeldjoven80 Anytime! Cheers.

[@boomerdiorama]

@@michaeldjoven80 Not for cork on plywood. I like the penetration where two porous surfaces join, especially cork because it can lift if you don't use lots of glue and weight to set. After this, liberal applications of matte medium, by way of the ballasting procedure, seals the whole deal. Cheers.

[@evanthomas635]

THANK YOU for the anti-resin rant!! That stuff is an abomination -- that uncontrollable, hard meniscus -- "resin creep" -- is just hideous, and I've tried for years to figure out why people accept it. It's damned expensive, as well -- as a modeller on a tight budget, I can think of much funner things to do with that 30 or 40 bucks, and I can get better results for a lot less with paint and gloss medium.

[@boomerdiorama]

I only mentioned half the reasons why I hate that "cheesy" stuff. I also can't stand "photo-shopped" wall-paper flats with baked in shadows that people like to call models either. But that is for another rant. I never forgot the time when one of my dioramas were rejected by a curator at the international "Festival of The Arts." I was a pro back then and should have known better. I tried to avoid the whole polemic, but I needed to get it out of the way. That is exactly what I'll be using, gloss mediums, and high quality acrylic paint. It's the muddy Fraser River I am modeling - not a crystal clear bucket of water which resin simulates. Cheers.

[@evanthomas635]

@@boomerdiorama I'm looking forward to seeing how you do it. Very timely -- I've just started working on the non-urban scenery on my small N scale model railroad. The only water is the discharge pond for the factory's toxic waste dispenser, but it's front and center, with an outlet via a culvert at the front edge, and I really want to get it right. It's a bit smaller than the mighty Fraser, but just as opaque... :) I appreciate your willingness to spend whatever time it takes to get stuff right. There are so many how-to-build-scenery-in-30-minutes videos out there, and at best, the results look generic and uninteresting. I watch your videos and instantly feel better about spending almost two months painting and detailing the streets and sidewalks in a two-foot-square area...

[@laspiedrasrailroad]

Boom - Envriotex on line 3

[@laspiedrasrailroad]

Used it once, artist medium once and WS water - Pricey but for small pours with a nice bed it works. Hey on the video, what is the source for the land behind the sand in front of the rocks, Gesso? I like your bank and want to use it on my creek.

[@boomerdiorama]

Coarse Molding Paste here: goldenpaints.com/products/medium-gels-pastes/molding-paste

[@PeterCPRail8748]

I have to disagree with you on epoxy resin. Yes the enviro tex suck. I use a deep pour furniture grade non cracking non shrinking flex epoxy. I achieved a nice deep 3 dimansional look, even modelling a convincing algy bloom. As for the epoxy creep along the edges I go over it with further landscaping to get the blending I want. As for water effects I use Woodlands sceneics water ripple gel with acrylic paints.

[@boomerdiorama]

Each to his or her own. I have yet to see a convincing shoreline with any resin pour. Unless it is a swamp look with overhanging grass, etc. You will never achieve it with a River Shore line like I am modeling . . . no way . . . been in the game to long. Even Luke Towan has difficulty hiding it. Go look at his videos. He can't hide it. Woodland Scenics is a derivative of acrylic resin. It's nothing special but the label. ;-) Cheers.

[@frankhellman6879]

But how do you REALLY feel about resin water? You were a bit wishy-washy about it. 😁

[@boomerdiorama]

I'll build a dam for it since I use so much real water anyway . . . lol.

[@peter50555.]

Rip rap is backfilled after foundation is poured

[@boomerdiorama]

. . . and it looks like it's back-filled as well. What about all the weeds and fine details at the shore edge that get wicked up with resin? It messes things up anyway you look at it. Try with a low tide coupled to shoreline details and the resin kills the whole deal. Cheers.

[@peter50555.]

@@boomerdiorama ohh… I mean in real life!!!! Rip rap goes in last! It explains the appearance of the gap where the pier meets land. Rip rap is not load bearing… it is a covering to break up wave scouring, so it is dumped into place after the foundation/road bed has been finished.

[@peter50555.]

Ahh.. you’re saying yes that’s the appearance of the model too… right on cool!

[@Death_From_Below]

I imagine people use resin water because it is covered in hobby magazines and they don't have even a fraction of your experience, sad.

[@boomerdiorama]

It's a silly "kitch" trend that never looks scale to begin with, unless you focus on it exclusively and hope that it fixes itself, while we forget about learning how to really model water on the rest of the layout. It's one of those "quick" fix remedies that fails in my opinion. I hate it with a passion for good reason. Cheers . . . lol ~ Boomer.

[@georgethomas7814]

nearly HALF the video is a static shock of the finished scene. Still shot the progress and add frame while you are talking..... mix in some more real beach shots

[@boomerdiorama]

I won't do voice over editing, so static shots can be disruptive. I have a life as well. Cheers.

[@neildavy2824]

IWatch all your ads lol

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank you for supporting the channel! Cheers ~ Boomer.

[@PeterTillman3]

Go slow Boomer.

[@boomerdiorama]

Yes indeed Peter . . . yes indeed. Cheers.

[@rhodesj1893]

Boomer, you have nothing to answer for or prove... even if it's not prototypical it's your world we volunteer to enter, and thusly we should accept your vision for what it is.

[@boomerdiorama]

I appreciate that. Yes, it is my vision in a sense. At the end of the day, the prototype is the influencing factor but artist license, for me, still rules the day. I mean compression, etc. is inevitable as well which I think most people understand. Anyone who has built a model railroad realizes the dilemma we all face when the vision takes on it's own meaning in a limited space and footprint. Cheers.