SAND BLASTING CABINET MODS (Tutorial)

[@BradleysGarage]

Great news, we have located a new LED Retrofit Light Kit supplier for the Blast Cabinet and Toolbox mod videos. These are available from Home Depot and will be shipped FREE to your door. They also include the covers so the LED's will be protected in the blast cabinet environment. Have fun on your builds and feel free to reach out with any questions or concerns. Blast Cabinet LED Strips Dual 2 ft. 22.62 in. 34-Watt LED White Strip Light Fixture Magnetic Linear LED Retrofit Kit 4000K thd.co/41fQEnS Blast Cabinet video - kzbin.info/www/bejne/eJrYeI2rqL-MqtU Toolbox LED Strips Dual 4 ft. 44.72 in. 64-Watt LED White Strip Magnetic Linear LED Retrofit Kit 4000K thd.co/3TgERE2 Toolbox video - kzbin.info/www/bejne/d2qndKKCg7GdiZY Happy Modding, Cheers!

[@Brrrap743]

Hey man you have about $35 of wasted parts hanging from underneath that thing it's not clean whatsoever. The door swings open to empty it so why would you need another tea and a plug in the bottom of it which is a waste and the rain hub which is a $20 part a waste only to have to buy the extra nipple come on man clean it up spend your money on media instead of that crap. Other than that 👍

[@BradleysGarage]

@@Brrrap743 Thanks for the comments. We chose to add the plug in the bottom to drain out 90% of the media since it makes less of a mess than just flinging the door open with a full tank. The 1" watertight conduit is about $7 currently which is overkill but we felt it was the cleanest method. You can easily just add a nipple and an elbow and let the door fly open. Glad you enjoyed the video, Cheers!

[@billshaw4858]

I think all the mods are great. I got the exact same cabinet and I will be making all of the mods to mine. Thanks guys!

[@BradleysGarage]

Congrats on your purchase Bill. We are confident you will enjoy all the upgrades to the blast cabinet. Let us know how your project goes, Cheers!

[@DomsRCandMore]

Dang , forgot about the discount I paid full price lol no worries .

[@rockordnance]

I just bought one of these cabinets to use on our channel doing some cerakote projects. Like you, I believe the latest generation of these cabinets are a step above the older ones. That being said, I chose not to use caulk as well but still wanted the other mods i've seen on multiple channels. None of them however come close to yours. Your instruction, common sense and step by step method along with your finely detailed craftsmanship make this, BY FAR the best blast cabinet modification video on KZbin. Outstanding job my man!

[@BradleysGarage]

Thanks for the kind words, appreciate the feedback. Had a great time doing this upgrade with my son. We really wanted to take all the ideas out there along with ones we thought would be good and create this video. It was a bit of work to get everything sorted but the video makes it look pretty easy. Glad you enjoyed it and I hope it gave you a couple ideas for your cabinet. Cheers!

[@Theycallmeroe]

Ditto! Ill be making all these mods to mines as well.

[@BradleysGarage]

Thanks for the comments Ronell, good luck on your blast cabinet upgrades. Cheers!

[@antcontreras]

Even with a vacuum and the weather stripping, I was getting a ton of media seeping out. Caulking, for me, was absolutely necessary. Great job on all other aspects!

[@BradleysGarage]

Thanks for the comments Antonio. We agree 100%, while the foam tape does a good job, after using the blast cabinet for the past few months, media still finds a way through the cracks. If you are just building one from scratch, it's definitely a good idea to seal all the joints with a Polyurethane Sealant. Appreciate the feedback, thanks for hanging out, Cheers!

[@jetcom1121]

This is awesome !!! Great ideas !!! I have been using a Harbor Freight Blast Cabinet in my shop since 2009 rebuilding aviation fuel nozzles and pumps. I have had the typical issues with siphon tube clogging and other issues, I have just dealt with it all. I am gonna give my blast cabinet an overhaul and upgrade !!! Thank you for this informative video.

[@BradleysGarage]

Glad you enjoyed the video, let us know how your blast cabinet upgrades go. Thanks again for hanging out. Cheers!

[@elrobo3568]

I bought one of these and put in new heavy-duty gloves, a ball valve and dryer for the air and took out the plastic window and put in tempered glass and a high-grade nozzle and hose. Works great. I use 5-gallon buckets for different media and cut a hole in one top, i got a large funnel with a screen , put in the hole of the bucket and dump the media into it, you can then put in a different media in about 1 minute.

[@BradleysGarage]

Awesome stuff, thanks for sharing your ideas. Cheers!

[@bizzidy]

Best mod video I’ve ever seen for this unit. Phenomenal. Thank you for putting the easy links to each mod in the comment box. This is a game changing video.

[@BradleysGarage]

Thanks for the feedback Matthew, glad you enjoyed the video. Hopefully this provides some encouragement for you on your blast cabinet. Have fun on your projects, Cheers!

[@phillipardell5579]

Great video, I like your spin on the mods: Using the electrical conduit fitting on the bottom of the trapdoor is creative. On the base frame, it seem to make sense to put the angle frame on the outside of the legs? That way, the weight of the cabinet bears on the bottom horizontal flat of the angle, not putting the bolts stressed in shear. Also, safety note: Try to cover as much of your grinding/wire wheels as possible on a bench grinder with a guard, and use a tool rest. Working with rotating machinery (like grinders and drills) while wearing gloves is also not recommended. Getting a workpiece jammed in a wire wheel flings it across the shop. Ask my motorcycle tank how I know. 😐Wire breaking off a wheel can find it's way into an eye.🙈 I couldn't see, but I'm sure you were wearing safety eyewear.🤓 I saw them on your forehead earlier. Thanks!

[@BradleysGarage]

Thanks for the feedback Phillip. When we were sourcing parts for the blast cabinet we came across that conduit fitting and thought it would work out great. Turns out it was a nice addition to the build. We didn't think about the distribution of weight on each leg but you make a valid point about putting them on the outside. Our goal was to make it easy for anyone with a drill to add the casters. If you have the option, welding them in place would be the best but we were trying to keep costs down. We do have an old bench grinder so the plastic shield is long gone from it. That being said we definitely are wearing safety glasses and I do use leather gloves just in case I get a little close. For all the smaller parts we typically use Vise-Grip pliers to hold those pieces. Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!

[@brhino1017]

I want to thank you for the hard work you put into the making this video. It is the most comprehensive of it's kind on You-Tube. My "Modzilla" HF cabinet is done thanks to you. Turned out super clean and I love the LED lighting. I also added a diy metering valve and Eastwood pedal. All hoses were 1/2". Keep up the good work. Bryan

[@BradleysGarage]

Thanks for the update Bryan on your cabinet. Glad our video helped motivate you to create a custom blast cabinet of your own. We are looking into getting a pedal setup as well since the hand does get tired on those long blast projects. Appreciate the feedback, have fun blasting. Cheers!

[@AmeriFanPicker]

The Eastwood pedal works fine with a HarborFreight?

[@rkbyrd4432]

When I did my cabinet lighting four years ago, I used mini floods, one on each side. Works great! But your LED idea is MUCH brighter and a cleaner install. Guess what upgrade I'm going to re-do! 🙂 I also did the lower angle iron braces and casters, but I had used galvanized, pre-drilled angle iron used for mounting brackets, braces, etc., and did not do the lower shelf. After the LED upgrade, I'll do the lower shelf, and replace my sketchy vacuum and feed setups with yours - MUCH cleaner! It's been a few years since I was researching and upgrading my cabinet, and just stumbled on your project, totally SANO! Thanks for posting.

[@BradleysGarage]

Thanks for sharing your blast cabinet adventures. We looked at a bunch of ideas before settling on which ones made the most sense for ours. The LED's are amazing, crazy amount of lumens and the simplest install you could ask for. The shelf on the bottom is perfect for storing the media. At first we were just worried about the vacuum bucket but then though, why not cover the entire thing. Have fun with your future upgrades, glad we could inspire you. Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!

[@charleswelch249]

You have the best upgrade video on Utube. Everything you have done is exactly what is missing to have a great blasting cabinet for cheap.

[@BradleysGarage]

Thanks for the kind words Charles, glad you enjoyed the video. We have been very happy with the upgrades as the cabinet keeps working great. The only thing we need to upgrade is our compressor, it's just too slow and can't keep up with larger projects. Cheers!

[@johnpaterson4401]

I have had one of these cabinets for about 12 years....I still use the original internal media pickup(I use medium grade crushed glass for restoring Tonka toys etc.)I modified my light using a flourescent type lamp head off an old desk lamp and have it taped to the top outside of the glass.I also made up a plywood hood that sits around the edges of the glass surround.....and over your head as you look into the cabinet so you don't get as much glare from around your room. My dust extractor uses a sealed bucket similar to yours,I have an old vacuum cleaner hose running from the plug on the back of the cabinet down to the side of the bucket with a 90 degree fitting through the side of the bucket to create a swirl effect....I have a centrifugal air filter pre cleaner off a tractor( the one with a clear bowl and removable lid).It is mounted on a hose coming up through the bottom of the bucket.This hose then attaches to a bagless vacuum cleaner.I have blocked off over half of the inletflutes on the underside of the pre cleaner to create a better swirl to account for the lesser flow of the vacuum cleaner.Works a treat!! I also use a sacrificial cellophane sheet taped to the inside of the glass...and I cut the previous used sheet into 4 pieces and tape that to the inside of the new sheet separately...so you only use 1/4 of the size of your glass to look through originally and as the view gets obscured you peel off the next 1/4 sheet for a fresh clear view...and this continues until all 1/4 sheets have been removed...then you put a fresh full sized sheet on the glass and start again.I still have the original glass sheet in the cabinet!!!j

[@BradleysGarage]

Hey John, thanks for sharing all the details about your cabinet. It's great to hear that after 12 years of use it is still going strong. Appreciate you hanging out and providing your wisdom. Cheers!

[@bullibe]

Great job! The only suggestion I would have is, power your light switch from the top of your gfci outlet. This way your light circuit is gfci protected also.

[@BradleysGarage]

Thanks for the comments. Appreciate the advice on the electrical stuff, that's the one area I have never really felt 100% about. More comfortable with all the mechanical stuff. Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!

[@apintonut]

You also made a possible fatal error of not grounding your metal box you should have a green screw with a wire to the ground and all the grounds should be hooked together

[@BradleysGarage]

I agree, I'm not the best when it comes to electrical stuff. Better with the mechanical bits. Will have to look into your suggestion, Cheers!

[@rcclassiccrawlers4368]

A lot of cool mods. I wish I would’ve seen this video when I bought mine two years ago. It would be a lot easier to install them when it was new and clean. I will more than likely modify the glass, foam seal and retaining ring and plug those indents on the door and maybe even add the LED lights. Thanks for sharing.

[@BradleysGarage]

Hey Scott, thanks for stopping by and checking out the video, appreciate the feedback. I think the LED upgrade is by far the best one since having the ability to see clearly what you are working on is paramount. The glass upgrade also helps with this as well since that plastic film is not very clear and is actually impeding your vision. Good luck on your future upgrades, Cheers!

[@HedgeMaster26]

Just picked up a Harbor Freight Blast Cabinet and was looking up what mods people recommend. Thank You for all the work you put into this video. This is awesome.

[@BradleysGarage]

Congrats on your purchase, glad you enjoyed the video. You will spend some time and money with the upgrades but you will be much happier with the blast cabinet afterwards. Keep us posted on how your upgrades go. Cheers!

[@renaissanceman7145]

I did most of the same mods to my HF cabinet. The differences are, I'm using a foot switch for air and I'm using rope LED lights. The foot switch for air eliminates muscle fatigue you get with a trigger on the gun, I highly recommend it. The rope LED lights work for now, I have about 24 feet. This is a recent addition that I haven't used much so time will tell if I keep it or change to something else. I was running 4 outdoor floodlight swivel sockets but it didn't cover enough and were pretty hot. Great job on the video! All of your mods are (sadly) necessary for this blast cabinet if you want it to be really useful at the job for which it was intended. These mods will transform a pretty useless blast cabinet into a nearly pro level tool. I used mine for several years as sold by HF until I saw similar videos on YT. Once I installed the upgrades the difference has been night and day.

[@BradleysGarage]

Thanks for sharing your cabinet upgrades and the kind words on the video. We will definitely be looking at a foot pedal upgrade in the near future as the fatigue is a factor for bigger/longer projects. You should really check out the Optilumen LED lights we used in ours. They perform great and are very bright in relation to other options on the market. Agreed that with a few small upgrades, it can really transform the HF blast cabinet into a great tool for the value. Cheers!

[@cowtown_dad]

What foot pedal did buy?

[@renaissanceman7145]

@@cowtown_dad I don't remember. It's an open design, no cover, I bolted it to the right front leg of the cabinet.

[@dang791]

I watched this because I have been thinking of buying this cabinet in hopes of saving a few bucks on my next rebuild. A few thoughts are try nut-serts (threaded inserts) in the cabinet to mount the glass frame. 3M VHB double sided tape will hold the permanent glass piece in the frame so you do not have to juggle two sheets of glass. When drilling with the hole saw , slow your drill speed way down and use some cutting oil as well as securing the piece you are cutting. This will save your hole saw and your drill won’t have to work so hard. I loved the expanded metal shelf idea and will definitely go with it for the full length of the frame and think it would be great for holding work pieces.

[@BradleysGarage]

Hey Dan, thanks for all the great tips and tricks. Another subscriber recommended the Nut-serts as well. I didn't realize that the price of the kits has come down so much. Pretty affordable to have in the shop at around $40-50. The tape idea sounds good to hold the top piece of glass. It's not that difficult to wiggle it around but making it that much easier is a plus. Good luck upgrading your base with the expanded metal, I know you will be happy with the shelf on the bottom. Cheers!

[@owenscustoms]

I followed your setup and only changed a few things like welding the base together. When I do my motorcycle build tutorial I’ll link this video in there. Thank you so much for this step by step!

[@BradleysGarage]

Hey Jacob, thanks for the comments, appreciate the feedback. Glad the video helped you with your project. It sounds like you got all the right stuff ready to go. Let us know how your motorcycle build goes. Cheers!

[@mikeb6431]

This is the absolute best "how to" video I've come across showing how to modify this cabinet. Thanks for showing every detail. New subscriber!

[@BradleysGarage]

Hey Mark, thanks for kind words, appreciate the feedback and the sub. Glad you enjoyed the video, Cheers!

[@markdamon314]

The light upgrade was a much needed upgrade- thanks for sharing this!

[@BradleysGarage]

Thanks for the comments Mark, glad you enjoyed the video. We are happy you were able to get the LED kit before they sold out. Appreciate you hanging out on the channel, Cheers!

[@rick5515]

I've had that box for about a year and a half. First thing I did was add the metering value to it, but I have the ball value in line with the feed hose. Walnut is so light no matter how much air you give it, it still would clog up the hose. Being in line I can now adjust the amount of medium entering the hose. Works perfect. I have been looking for another light and yours is perfect and easy to install. Will go online today and order it. Thanks.

[@BradleysGarage]

Thanks for the info Robert. Curious if your setup works with the Walnut Shell media? Don't use it that often but would like to get it working better. Also be sure to use our discount code at ProLighting.com for the savings on your LED light purchases. Cheers!

[@rick5515]

@@BradleysGarage Walnut is all I have been using so far. Works perfect with the ball value. I'll take a picture of it later and send it to you. The ball value is the key. And being it's vacuum and not pressure it will not destroy the ball value.

[@Rick-Williams59]

I done mods to my blaster a few years back, and I used the iron fittings, after using for a while moisture started stopping up my syphon system. I replaced the metal fittings with pvc and haven't had a stop up yet. My hoses are routed a little different than your hoses. I like the regulator position, mine is mounted on the back leg, and for the light mod, I used the old mason jar trick, and framed the bottom with casters just like you did. Awesome job on your mods.

[@BradleysGarage]

Hey Rick, thanks for sharing your ideas, it's always good to hear what people have done. We considered the PVC option for the metering valve but decided to go with cast iron since we are constantly changing media and have to unhook the hose and clean out the trap door, we figured it would hold up against the abuse better. We are very happy with the LED light mod, with that many lumens we can see every hidden aspect of the part being blasted. Have fun with your cabinet, glad you enjoyed the video. Cheers!

[@cbonecleveland2222]

Thank you! Great straight forward video and parts list! Just came from Home Depot and got all my stuff!❤😊

[@BradleysGarage]

Thanks for the kind words, glad you enjoyed the video. Good luck on your blast cabinet build. Let us know how it goes, Cheers!

[@MrJohnnytowncar]

I watched a lot of upgrade videos for this cabnet but this video is the best one I've seen

[@BradleysGarage]

Thanks for the kind words Johnny, appreciate the feedback. Good luck on your blast cabinet upgrades. Cheers!

[@daver681]

Great job thanks for not cutting the video off every few minutes to put another part off a week later, all in one, great attention to detail and nice job, I really enjoyed your video.

[@BradleysGarage]

Thanks for the kind words Dave, appreciate the feedback. Glad you enjoyed the video, Cheers!

[@ol-man-duffyj688]

Quick questions on the build. Your stock vent cap over near the lights. Do you just pop that open when you have the vacuum on? Anyway to adjust the airflow through that plug? And the back of the cabinet where you drilled through that cap and installed an elbow. Could I buy only the 90 deg. Elbow and cut the flared end off one side and glue that directly into the drilled bent plug that comes stock with the cabinet? I was thinking this might make the down tube sit closer to the back of the cabinet for when it’s sitting up next to the shops wall. Thanks for your help, & especially on how to control the airflow through the cabinet.

[@BradleysGarage]

Thanks for the questions Duffy. The stock cap on the left gets removed when using the vacuum. We just keep it on to prevent dust from getting inside when not in use. You could definitely just use the elbow to keep the rear pipe tighter to the cabinet. Glad you enjoyed the video, good luck on your blast cabinet project. Cheers!

[@grendelum]

i have no intention of ever buying one of these, i’ve no use for one, but i greatly appreciate the ingenuity in the mods you made and mad props to you for open sourcing your work… i’ll make sure to share with my friends who do have a use for a blasting cabinet.

[@BradleysGarage]

Thank you for the comments and for appreciation of the work. I know the blast cabinet is not for everyone but thanks for sharing it with those that might be, Cheers!

[@dryzl3910]

Everyone has a use for one if you think it or not

[@BradleysGarage]

You will find a use for it if you have one, that's for sure. Great to be able to clean up parts and pieces with ease. Have fun, Cheers!

[@patwalker1769]

First and foremost I appreciate it when you take the time to go through step by step procedures explaining what and why your doing things, 99% of youtubers don't do that and they just assume everyone knows the answers and how they got there. Now, here's a crazy one for you, I bought this blast cabinet about 2 1/2 yrs ago and moved from Stockton, CA to San Antonio, TX and now back to Stockton and I/m just now getting around to building it... Crazy I know, but I bought it when it was on Sale back then and Just knew I would use it eventually. OK, Can you tell me what the purpose of the 2" port next to the light switch box is that is just capped off? Thanks

[@BradleysGarage]

Thanks for the kind words Pat, glad you enjoyed the video. The one thing we would change is that you should use some polyurethane caulking as the foam doesn't do a good enough job of sealing the cabinet. That is the only thing we would change from the mods we did on our cabinet. The port next to the light switch is the intake for the incoming air. We just leave the cap on to prevent dust and inspects from getting inside when not in use. The rear port in now the vacuum port where the air is being sucked out of. Good luck on your blast cabinet mods, let us know how it goes. Cheers!

[@silverstonehtpc6889]

So what's the need for the 2nd pane of glass instead of just using one pane? Is the thickness required for the mounting/trim surround piece or something?

[@BradleysGarage]

Thanks for the question, the main reason is safety. If the bottom piece of glass were to break, from accidental contact with an object inside, then you are protected. In addition the factory plastic trim is designed for (2) pieces stacked on each other. It you only used (1) piece, it would not be tight in the trim. The plastic piece it comes with will get pitted and blurry in just a few minutes of blasting. Since you never damage the top piece of glass, that one will be good forever. Cheers!

[@rosspeterson7759]

I bought one of these cabinets, and did some upgrades also . I love it. The cabinet is heavy duty, so making the best upgrades are very well worth it!!!

[@BradleysGarage]

Thanks for watching, Cheers!

[@janusr3074]

Okay a real man build it himself

[@jimsammons5721]

@@janusr3074 Show us yours Mr. Man.

[@44thala49]

Buying this cabinet next week so I’ll definitely be back to watch again. Well done video.

[@BradleysGarage]

Thanks for the comments, glad to here you are taking the plunge on picking up a blast cabinet. You might want to keep an eye out for a New Years deal, I've seen it go for $199 a few months ago. HF is getting pretty stingy though on discounting this blast cabinet. Good luck on your future upgrades, feel free to check back in and let us know how your build goes. Cheers!

[@44thala49]

Thanks for the heads up on the deals. I’ll hold off to see if they discount it. I’m planning on trying their 20” drill press too and it seems like they never go on sale either. Anyhow, great channel, great videos and again, I appreciate the information. Take care!

[@Turk380]

awesome guide guys, well done! the best and clearest I've seen so far. I think the only mod you missed was making the whole top a lid you can lift up. Really appreciate the parts list and links to everything, and that you explained everything to a beginner level. those of us that are a little more advanced can easily see where to take it from there. (ie - I can easily weld up the angle iron & expanded metal base).

[@BradleysGarage]

Hey Brian, thanks for the feedback, glad you enjoyed the video. We really wanted to create the mods so that anyone could perform them with just basic tools. Most people have a drill and a hack saw, but maybe not a welder....lol In regards to the top becoming a lid, that is something we thought about but realized that if it's too big to go through the door then it's probably too heavy to lift through the top. We just use the regular sand blaster for all the large/heavy parts. Thank again for hanging out, appreciate the support, Cheers!

[@GregGarcia-o1q]

By far this is the best video on the harbor freight cabinet ,great job !!!

[@BradleysGarage]

Thanks for the kind words Greg, appreciate the feedback. Glad you enjoyed the video, hope it helps you with your project. Cheers!

[@jasoneaton4514]

Easier way to get grommet in with hose in: wrap a piece of string in groove 1½-2 times around. Leave a good 12" tail. Feed tail through hole. Hold grommet flush to surface. Reach around and pull string.

[@BradleysGarage]

Thanks for the great tip Jason, appreciate you sharing the idea. We will definitely give that a go the next time we are installing a grommet. Cheers!

[@eric3364]

building this in my garage right now, just have to finish the dust bucket, cant wait to give it a try

[@BradleysGarage]

Hey Eric, glad to hear you were inspired by the video. I am confident you will be pleased with the results once you get it wrapped up. Have fun with your "modded" blast cabinet, Cheers!

[@lauriebird870]

Excellent video. I brought the exact same unit here is Australia and was greatly disappointed in the way it worked. I am now looking forward to doing these modifications. Thanks and much appreciated your time and effort.

[@BradleysGarage]

Thanks Laurie, glad you enjoyed the video. Hopefully it will help you get your cabinet upgraded and working great. Good luck with your project, Cheers!

[@GTacticalJody]

This looks fun but scary for someone who’s never tried anything like this. Do you think it’s worth modifying if it’s only for personal use and small parts?

[@BradleysGarage]

Hey Jody, thanks for the question. If you only plan on using the blast cabinet a few times a year and just for small parts, it doesn't make sense to go through all of these mods. Our recommendation though would be to try out your basic stock cabinet and see how it works for you. You may discover some things that you would like to upgrade on it after using it a couple times. The most common upgrade that should be done in our opinion would be the lighting. The cheap light they provide from HF doesn't really allow you to see much of your work area. Take a look at the links below in the description for our LED lighting upgrade. The rest of the mods you can wait on to see which things may bug you after trying it out. Since we clean up a lot of parts and need to film stuff, the visibility and lighting was paramount. For most users, this may not be as big of a deal since it may only be used a couple times per year. Let us know how your blast cabinet adventures go, Cheers!

[@anthonydargenio3536]

Thorough and detailed love the parts list and all the links AWESOME great job men

[@BradleysGarage]

Thanks for the kind words Anthony, glad you enjoyed the video. Good luck on your blast cabinet project. Cheers!

[@fireshack]

Wow! Nice. Turned a simple cabinet in to what looks and feels like a high end unit. Thanks

[@BradleysGarage]

Hey Paul, appreciate the feedback. Everything is working pretty well with the cabinet upgrades. I think the only issue we had was trying to run walnut shells through the factory gun. All of the other media haven't given us any issues. Purchased a Skat-Trak gun from TP tools to give that a try to see if it functions better than the Harbor Freight one with walnut shells. Cheers!

[@kevtoni9169]

Sorry if I missed it, but what is the purpose of the small 1/4 inch air valve that runs off the larger one inch assembly? Think I missed something

[@BradleysGarage]

Hey Kev, thanks for the question. The 1/4" valve is to regulate the amount of incoming airflow to the blast media suction tube. This will adjust the amount of blast media delivered to the gun. Here is a good graphic that shows how the metering valve works. ibb.co/4Vqg5kM Hopefully that clears up any questions you have regarding the metering valve setup, Cheers!

[@bruceaskin9645]

Great vid. I definately need to get some air flow into my sand pick up, and better lighting. Instead of expensive glass , I just use 1/4 inch plastic , it doesnt frost as much from the sand but from wiping , using a window spray and clean soft cloth lessens this. The other thing I have found beneficial is running metal insect screen across the platform , this prevents paint ,scale etc from clogging the gun. Biggest issue I have is air flow even though I have a fairly large two cylinder compressor

[@BradleysGarage]

Great suggestions Bruce, appreciate the feedback. Getting those LED's are a must have. Be sure to use our discount code for 5% off sitewide from ProLighting. I do like the idea of the metal screen to minimize the debris contaminating the media. Since we don't use very much media with the gravity feed setup, I usually just toss the couple scoops out after a dirty job. Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!

[@bruceaskin9645]

@@BradleysGarage Setting the bolts in with knurled nuts is a great idea also, I will definately be doing that , next time I change the screen. You can also minimise the wear on the screen by directing the sand away from it. Another channel suggested changing the gun tips to suit the compressor

[@BradleysGarage]

Bruce, a lot of suggestions in the comments below recommended using Nutserts in lieu of the Knurled Nuts we showed in the video. It seems like the kits are pretty reasonable these days with most being around $40. I wasn't aware this was an option otherwise I might have made the investment in the tool. Either way, being able to replace the glass/plastic quickly and easily is the key. Cheers!

[@jakespeed63]

funny story about your centerpunch. Necessity is the mother of invention. Once again, good video

[@BradleysGarage]

You have to make due with the tools you got. Glad you enjoyed it, Cheers!

[@obieoberstar]

great video. just came across a HF cabinet that needs some attention. perfect timing.

[@BradleysGarage]

Congrats on finding a good used Harbor Freight cabinet. That alone will save you hours of assembly work! Now you can focus all that time on making it the best it can be. Good luck on doing all the mods on your box. Feel free to let us know how everything goes. Cheers!

[@kimmagee9285]

Incredible tutorial - great mods done well especially the metal no-weld base! Suddenly, I want a sand blasting cabinet…

[@BradleysGarage]

Thanks for the kind words Kim, glad you enjoyed the video. Of course everything is more expensive today than when we made the video but the blast cabinet is still working great. It does come in handy to clean up all sorts of items. Thanks for hanging out, Cheers!

[@Crewsy]

Seems like a great series of modifications but one thing I didn’t see explained is the purpose of the air regulator valve in the siphon piping underneath. Is there a need to allow air to enter the siphon tube because it should be full of blast media unlike just having the siphon tube sitting in the media inside the cabinet?

[@BradleysGarage]

Here is a good diagram that shows how the metering valve functions- ibb.co/4Vqg5kM Good luck on your Blast Cabinet project, Cheers!

[@nxne75]

Great video but a question: What’s the purpose of the ball valve attached to the metering valve setup? Is it supposed to operate via atmospheric pressure and be left open when you’re sandblasting?

[@BradleysGarage]

Thanks for the question. Here is a good diagram that shows how the metering valve functions- ibb.co/4Vqg5kM Good luck on your Blast Cabinet project, Cheers!

[@nxne75]

@@BradleysGarage: Thanks for the reply and the pic of the metering setup - the way it functions is kind of what I figured you had in mind when you incorporated it in the setup.

[@normanmerrill1241]

Good presentation,,,really clear and concise …Harbor Freight came out ahead on this one…thanks

[@BradleysGarage]

Glad you enjoyed the video Norman. Thanks for the comments, Cheers!

[@joerivas9847]

Cool. I used a shop cart with locking wheels for my cabinet, also gave storage for equipment.

[@BradleysGarage]

Thanks Joe, great idea with the shop cart. Glad you enjoyed the video, Cheers!

[@Good-Enuff-Garage]

I would love to see a cost comparison of this Harbor Freight cabinet plus all the parts and time and labor costs to mod it, vs just buying a proper unit, not being rude, just seriously asking as I've been down these rabbit holes in the past where the end result still is a Harbor Freight tool

[@BradleysGarage]

Thanks for the question Good Enuff. We have invested about 8 hours into the mods and around $450 in parts, including the original cost of the cabinet. There are a few blast cabinet options out there but I don't think you will find a more complete unit for that kind of money. The first one is the Eastwood B60 which starts @ $617 for a 36"x24" sized cabinet, the same as the HF cabinet. This unit will hold a lot more blast media 120lbs vs. 40lbs but it still uses the siphon tube style setup so you typically need a lot more media in the tank versus the metering valve setup like we added. The siphon tube style is more prone to clogging. Also, the LED lighting is not even close to the lumen output of the Optilumen LED kit. It also does not have any vacuum setup or a way to remove debris while blasting. They offer a vacuum setup for an additional $270. So we figured a normal unit from Eastwood is already @ $617 and lacks a lot of the upgrades we performed to the HF cabinet. www.eastwood.com/eastwood-b60-abrasive-media-blast-cabinet.html The next option is from Grizzly which is a step up in price but also comes with good features out of the box. The G0707 24"x37" is @ $1,084 + $229 shipping. so you're already @ $1,313. It does come with a foot switch, a vacuum system all ready to go, a built in regulator, plus it has doors on both sides. Based on the description using "Fluorescent" lights, I doubt they have the same lumen output as the Optilumen Kit. So while it has a few of the upgrades we did to the HF unit, it is quite a bit more money (almost 3 times!!!). www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-24-x-37-sandblast-cabinet/g0707 Keep in mind that ALL 3 unit are still made in China so there is really no difference in quality. Plus neither of them have casters so if mobility is important in your garage, they would need to be added. It's up to you how much work you would like to put in and how much you would like to invest on a blast cabinet. You can definitely spend more and not have to spend time doing upgrades. At the end of the day, we felt that spending $450 on the HF cabinet was the best option for us. We could tailor the upgrades to suit our needs. The next upgrade for us will be the foot switch assembly, since your hands do get tired while doing larger more complicated pieces along with a more powerful compressor that has a larger tank. Outside of that we have been pleased with how the upgrades perform and the overall functionality of the blast cabinet. Hope this sheds some light on our thoughts when building the cabinet, Cheers!

[@mysterycomment1553]

I could say the same to you with your way of thinking. You think spending more money always gives you a better tool? Is your tool box full of snap on? lol. It’s a blast cabinet and it’s the best bang for your buck for a cabinet. All the other brands still have the same cheap gun included etc. with a few hours put into the cheaper cabinet it will out perform even the $1500 cabinets. I have just over $400 usd in mine and I modified the gun, put better hoses, metering valve, vacuum system, led lights, fully sealed the cabinet, added high flow fittings and new glass. It’s ready to rock.

[@crazyantny9161]

No it's not... It's called a a better mouse trap:)

[@toddjones6490]

Buy a GOOD used one 4 hu ndred bucks n do it ur self that 2me is all the FUN just saying every one doesn't have 800 dollars

[@wclucius9]

@@BradleysGarage do you have a parts list for the lower siphoning unit? The 1” pipe and so on? And have you all gone to a pedal? And if so which one?

[@cdonuts7335]

The manufacturer's must be watching these videos, mine came corked, doesn't have holes in the side, window screws are welded in with wing nuts to replace the glass, pickup tube mods done, has a vacuum system. I haven't had a need for a metering valve as the modified pickup tube works fine. It also came with very bright led lights. The most important thing is the air supply making sure it is more than adequate to supply the cabinet and dry. Just a few water drops will block the gun. I have a number of filter systems. Copper tube cooling, a AT1000 filter they use on plasma cutters and Indicating Silica Gel Beads filter plus the usual compressor micron filter as a last line of defence.

[@BradleysGarage]

It would make sense to watch them but I don't know if they are. Curious what brand of cabinet you are referring to that has a few of the necessary mods already done from the factory? Sounds like a pretty sweet setup you got for keeping moisture out. I will have to look into that AT1000 a little more. Thanks for stopping by and checking out the video. Cheers!

[@cdonuts7335]

@@BradleysGarage it's a Hafco metalmaster SB-375 even with everything done it still took a lot of work to get the air supply right.

[@torymiddlebrooks]

I'd love to hear a year in review for this project! This is my favorite set of mods.

[@BradleysGarage]

Thanks for the comments, appreciate the feedback. We will post an update on the blast cabinet and what we have learned over the past 7 months soon. Still have a couple more tweaks to finalize beforehand. Stay tuned, Cheers!

[@fredderf4075]

Great video. I would have liked a demonstration of how well it works compared to the siphon setup. Also I don't understand how the metering valve works. What stops the media from pouring out of it?

[@BradleysGarage]

Thanks for the comments Fred, glad you enjoyed the video. Apologies we didn't show the operational side in this video. Here are a couple of our other videos with the blast cabinet in action: kzbin.info/www/bejne/p4SqkGB4ZrpmnKssi=9d_AYAhIyudlM4WY&t=382 kzbin.info/www/bejne/p6jPlHakrKuHZtEsi=KHthKY1E5m3OsBoN&t=508 Here is a good explanation of how the metering valve functions: ibb.co/4Vqg5kM Good luck on your blast cabinet upgrades, let us know how it goes. Cheers!

[@douglascamster2789]

Thank you for one of the most detailed step-by-step tutorials I have ever watched. Great job! Thankfully I found this before I dropped the hammer on a much more expensive unit. I just picked up my HF blast cabinet this morning and ready to start working through the parts list. A few questions before I get started. Now that you have had many hours on the box, are there any "If I had it to do over again" recommendations? For example, I saw in another comment that you had "switched over to a Spigot/Hub flush bushing for inside the lid" because the silicon did not hold up on the pipe going into the bucket lid. Do you have a specific part(s) recommendation for this mod? I'm defiantly going with the RIVNUTs and some of the other recommendations in the comments like the tempered glass. Any other new suggestions? Thanks.

[@BradleysGarage]

Hey Douglas, thanks for the kind words, glad you enjoyed the video. I would definitely change over to the Spigot x Hub Flush Bushing versus what we showed in the video. This is keep the connection to the vacuum nice and tight. The original method caused issues with the connection to the bucket to become loose. Here is what we used for the Spigot x Hub Bushing- thd.co/3LbEt2L Pictures of it installed - ibb.co/zxVsnjS ibb.co/FmH4bGj There has been lots of recommendations in the comments to use the Nutserts for the glass trim. I would go this route if you have the option. The kits these days are pretty affordable and it's a good tool to have in the garage. We haven't sourced one yet so I can't recommend any specific brand. You can get the inner glass film protectors from TP Tools. They are about $4.00 per piece/film. This is a great idea if you decide to go with the tempered glass on the bottom. Since that is more expensive than what we are using you want to help protect it. That being said we haven't had an issue with the standard glass which works out to be about $6 per piece. We just prefer the clarity of the glass versus the stick on film. It just never seems as clear especially since we are filming projects. www.tptools.com/Skat-Blast-Standard-Cabinet-Inner-Lens-Protectors,7881.html?b=d*14066 Other than those the next upgrade we are looking at is a Foot Pedal. Your trigger finger will get tired when doing a long project. Good luck on your blast cabinet build, let us know how it goes, Cheers

[@seeya4046]

Seriously great video. I need to do some of these modifications on mine but I rarely use it... though when I DO need to use it, it frustrates me because I haven't got nearly the ability this box has. Great work.

[@BradleysGarage]

Thanks for the kind words, glad you enjoyed the video. You can slowly chip away at different mods as you find the time. Just focus on what has been frustrating you the most and work up from there. Good luck on your blast cabinet project. Cheers!

[@ct71rr20]

I started putting mine together, just a note: the bolts and nuts for the glass trim that came with my unit are M5 not M4 as stated in your video. I purchased longer M4 bolts and M4 knurled nuts to use as you suggested but the M5 nuts that came with my unit will not work. So now I have to either purchase M4 nuts to fit the bolts and knurled nuts that I bought or use the existing M5 nuts and bolts and purchase M5 knurled nuts to fit. Just thought everyone should be aware of this.

[@BradleysGarage]

Thanks for the comments. I just went out to the shop and double checked the Knurled Nuts on ours and they are in fact M4. It's possible that HF have changed the hardware since we got ours but I'm not sure that an M5 will even go through the plastic trim easily. I would double check all the bags since the instructions are terrible and it can get confusing on what goes where. If everything looks correct then I would get the M4 nuts and use what you already grabbed. Just save the top glass for the final step and see what hardware is left over after the build. You might be surprised with what you find. Cheers!

[@OneKoolDude]

When the vac is on where does the supply air come from ?? Do you open the original vac point on the left side of the cabinet ??

[@BradleysGarage]

Hey Gregg, thanks for the question. We actually hook it up differently than the instructions recommend. We are using the rear hole for the vacuum attachment and the left side hole as the intake for the incoming air. This way the excess dust/debris is pulled towards the back of the cabinet and out of our field of view. We found this works better than pulling air from the back and then going forward to the left. You can just leave the left side cap on when not in use to prevent bugs or other things from getting into your media. In addition, it just looks cleaner if the vacuum pipes are in the back of the unit versus on the side. Thanks again for watching, Cheers!

[@jsstrawder]

Wonder how that tape is aging now a couple years later. Used loctite bonding caulk when originally built mine. Doesn’t dust or make a mess years later

[@BradleysGarage]

Thanks for the comments, the tape is holding up well. Looking back we should have used some polyurethane caulking to seal the cabinet. Even in the early days we were getting media come through the cracks in the cabinet. it doesn't seem like it's gotten worse but it does create a little mess on the floor. Cheers!

[@tonyportella994]

On the top viewing glass, I installed 10-32 floating nut plates and 10-32 screws X 1 1/4 long from the top. Makes a lots easier to remove the glass.

[@BradleysGarage]

Thanks for the tip Tony, appreciate you sharing the ideas. Cheers!

[@kevinshogren8740]

Loved the video. I bought 1 of these a few years ago and decided it was a total POS. It's been sitting in the corner of my shop ever since. I intended to fix it by retro-fitting a 50 lbs. pressure blaster to it, just never got around to it. My only question is, just to be clear is the 1/4 turn valve (in the sand feed line) just there as an air bleed. or are you actually putting pressurized air in there?

[@BradleysGarage]

Hey Kevin, thanks for the comments. The small valve on top of the metering valve is to adjust airflow into the valve itself. Here is a good diagram that shows how the metering valve functions- ibb.co/4Vqg5kM Hope that clears up any questions you have about how the metering valve functions. Good luck on your Blast Cabinet project, hopefully you dust that bad boy off and get some use out of it. Cheers!

[@kevinshogren8740]

Thank you for the clarification, I think I'm going to try your mods first. The expense is less than my proposed fix. Thanks again for the great video. @@BradleysGarage

[@BradleysGarage]

@@kevinshogren8740 That sounds great, let us know how it goes. Thanks again for hanging out. Cheers!

[@JCWren]

I'm just starting to make these mods to a cabinet I picked up this weekend, and was wondering one thing about the metering tube. If the purpose is to mix the media and air, ideally it seems like the valve should be closer to the tee to give it more time to mix. It would take another 2" nipple and a 3/4" coupler to change it. I don't have a degree in fluid dynamics (although I did stay in a Holiday Inn Express), so I could be completely off base. Any thoughts on this?

[@BradleysGarage]

Hey JC, thanks for the question. We just modeled the dimensions after the manufactured ones they sell for $100. There may be a better design but this is what we came up with after looking at all the options. We also do not have a degree in Fluid Dynamics as we have only stayed at a Courtyard Marriott. Here is a good diagram that shows how the metering valve functions- ibb.co/4Vqg5kM Good luck on your Blast Cabinet project, Cheers!

[@ColinAnton]

Do you think the metering valve upgrade reduces the required cfms for the cabinet since you can probably run it lower pressure like 70 psi since it's gravity feed?

[@BradleysGarage]

Hey Colin, thanks for the question. We can run as low as 30-40 psi depending on the blast media type. Most of the time we are using aluminum oxide blast media and have the regulator set at around 50-60psi. Here's a quick summary of the metering valve setup and how it performs: Suction blast systems work by drawing abrasive to the nozzle using suction instead of pushing it through a blast hose with compressed air. Step1: Clean compressed air is supplied to an air jet which accelerates the air into a hollow chamber inside the blast gun. Step 2: The result of the fast moving “jet” of air coming from the air jet is an area of low pressure between the air jet and the nozzle. Step 3: This area of low pressure creates suction inside the gun body which is attached to a suction hose running to a metering valve. Step 4: The metering valve allows abrasive from a storage vessel to mix with induction air. Induction air is the air that is allowed to be sucked into the system and carry abrasive through the suction hose and into the gun body. The mix of abrasive is adjusted by opening or closing the metering valve adjustment. Step 5: The abrasive reaches the air jet and is propelled through the nozzle and abrasive blasting begins. Here is a good graphic that shows how the metering valve works. ibb.co/4Vqg5kM Hopefully that clears up any questions you have regarding the metering valve setup, Cheers!

[@ColinAnton]

Thanks for the info. What product specifically do use to dry your air if any to keep the media from getting saturated?

[@BradleysGarage]

Hey Colin, we are currently using this Air Dryer setup on our compressor. It seems to do a good job of keeping moisture out of the feed line. www.eastwood.com/rockwood-3-8-npt-2-stage-air-filter-dryer-system.html Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!

[@BradleysGarage]

Hey Colin, we are currently using this Air Dryer setup on our compressor. It seems to do a good job of keeping moisture out of the feed line. www.eastwood.com/rockwood-3-8-npt-2-stage-air-filter-dryer-system.html Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!

[@tonyportella994]

Good presentation! I have two questions., What water/oil separator are you using? 1/4 or 3/8 connection, Also about the plastic cover for the Lids? where to get it?Ok 3 questions.. I only have a small compressor, is it going to work? Thank you

[@BradleysGarage]

Thanks for the questions Tony, all of our connections are 1/4". We are just using an inexpensive separator off the compressor right now. www.amazon.com/NANPU-Compressed-Regulator-Lubricator-Separator/dp/B0BMLCTPZ3 Our long term plan is to get this one - stupidsimple.tools/collections/shop-product/products/sst-megaflow-3-stage-air-filtration-and-regulation-system The plastic covers for the cabinet come with it when purchased new. If you are buying the cabinet second hand then you will have to create these yourself since Harbor Freight does not sell them individually. Our current compressor is only 5.3 CFM @ 90 PSI so it is well below the recommended 10 CFM @ 90 PSI that is stated. The smaller CFM and tank size will require you to take more frequent breaks and you will have to wait for the compressor to build up pressure before being able to blast again. Good luck on your project, let us know how it goes. Cheers!

[@steveobrien8792]

I'm Curious to know your thoughts on that LED light kit after a years use. Have you had any issues? is it holding up ok? I just got a Barrel Blaster sandblasting cabinet & it definitely needs a lighting upgrade and I really liked the look of this as an option.

[@BradleysGarage]

Hey Steve, thanks for the question. The original one we used in our video is no longer being produced but we have sourced a replacement LED kit that should be comparable. The LED light kit has been working great and the only thing that happens is the clear protective shield gets hazy from being etched by the flying media. Other than that, it has been great and we have no issues with it whatsoever. we could not imagine trying to perform any work in the cabinet with the cheesy light provided by HF. Good luck on your cabinet mods, let us know how it goes. Cheers!

[@steveobrien8792]

Thanks for the info. Your link does take me to a very similar product on home depot's website and I was able to order it. So far they are treating it like it's in stock and going to be shipped. My Fingers are crossed because the flood light shining from the side option is very frustrating. @@BradleysGarage

[@mikeredmond6508]

Where did you get the light fixtures? I was unable to get any kind of parts list to pull up. Of course, I'm just using my phone. Would you also include the model of the light fixture? Thank you, really enjoyed the video. Very informative, and quite detailed. Loved all the mods and can hardly wait to begin modifying mine. Thank you

[@BradleysGarage]

Hey Mike, thanks for the questions. We purchased the LED Light Fixture from ProLighting.com Prolighting LED Light Kit - RKS2230-4 **Save 5% on your order using the discount code BradleysGarage5 at checkout!** 21" 30 Watt LED Strips, 4,324 Lumens - $40.50 prolighting.com/rks2230-4.html 2" Clear Snap on Lens Cover - (2) $3.20 prolighting.com/lns-2c.html We posted all of the parts we used in the description of the video. I know it's tough to see all of that on your phone sometimes. If you prefer to just download a PDF of the parts list you can find that here - mega.nz/file/wg0TgAIR#fsg-NzEexMUSy4yjeoloB71DIlkQObkV5kn2VxIFQZc Have fun upgrading your blast cabinet. Be sure to let us know how it goes. Cheers!

[@KovertMecha]

I don't even need one of these but watched the whole video because i enjoy diy stuff

[@BradleysGarage]

Glad you enjoyed the video, thanks for hanging out, Cheers!

[@indylive4926]

When you come in 6 1/2" from the edge to mark for your feed lines, how far do you come down that 1 1/2" each side of the center line

[@BradleysGarage]

Thanks for the question, apologies we didn't include that measurement in the video. It is exactly 2" from the top crease to the center of the hole. Good luck on your Blast Cabinet mods. Let us know how tings go. Cheers!

[@elitewheelrepairinc.juarez3952]

What type of foot pedal and gun replacement would you recommend?

[@BradleysGarage]

Thanks for the question Elite Wheel Repair, we have not pulled the trigger on that upgrade yet. We have been looking at a couple options: The first is from Eastwood which comes with the foot pedal and gun and looks to contain everything you need to convert to a foot pedal setup - www.eastwood.com/eastwood-blast-cabinet-foot-pedal-and-gun.html The second is from TP Tools, although it's not 100% clear on what is included within the kit? Not sure if you get all of the hoses and hardware needed to convert your cabinet. The other two kits look to be complete based on the photos. - www.tptools.com/Foot-Pedal-Upgrade-Kit,7453.html?sku=6411-kit The third and most expensive options is from ALC but it does seem to be complete with everything you need to get you going - www.tillmantools.com/ALC-11666-Cabinet-Blaster-Foot-Pedal-Kit-p/alc11666.htm Let us know if you decide to "pull the trigger" and pickup one of these kits. Cheers!

[@bscroggs]

Great video, I went Prolighting to get the light kit and found out they no longer carry that product. OH NO. Any suggestions for where to find one or do you have a "second best" lighting kit in mind?

[@BradleysGarage]

Thanks for the question. The old manufacturer that we used for the video is no longer producing the LED retrofit kits. Prolighting.com is securing a new vendor that has a better product and should have them available for purchase very soon. We will post the new info as soon as the LED lights go live on their site. Appreciate your patience as they get all the details sorted out. Cheers!

[@simonh5110]

Just curious, why not use a 90 instead of a T to make the first turn going to the metering valve?

[@BradleysGarage]

Hey Simon, thanks for the question. The reason for the T instead of just using a 90 was to add the drain plug. It is not necessary but it helps get the majority of the blast media out before opening the hatch door. It's already messy when swapping out media so this was just a simple way to remove most of the blast media out of the cabinet. Good luck on your project, Cheers!

[@Restorology]

Excellent info. Thanks for sharing!

[@BradleysGarage]

Thanks for the comments Restorology, glad you enjoyed the video. Good luck on your future projects, Cheers!

[@travistaillon369]

If using walnut media, what PSI have you had the best performance with?

[@BradleysGarage]

Hey Travis, we have not had any luck using the stock HF gun and Walnut Shell media. We have only tried 12-20 size so far but it just gets clogged in the nozzle. We are still exploring other options right now to see if we can find a solution. Cheers!

[@robertdiffin9136]

Great video! I noticed you were using black pipe as opposed to galv pipe on the metering valve. Any particular reason?

[@BradleysGarage]

Hey Robert, thanks for the question. You can use either black pipe or galvanized for the metering valve components. It really just came down to what was available when we were building the blast cabinet. Good luck on your project, Cheers!

[@josephcornejo1114]

DAAAAAAAMN!!!!! this looks good. A lot of work, but worth it. Thks for making this video.

[@BradleysGarage]

Thanks for the comments Joseph, glad you enjoyed the video. It's a bit of work but you will have a blast cabinet that will theoretically last your lifetime. Thanks again for hanging out, good luck on your project. Cheers!

[@dougkiss7630]

Thank you so much for all your hard work. I've watched the video many times as I am currently upgrading my Princess Auto version using your mods . I am curious to know the specs of the compressor you use. Mine is 60 gallon 11.4 CFM and 125 to 155 PSI. It works well at this range but not well below. Thank You.

[@BradleysGarage]

Hey Doug, appreciate the feedback, glad you enjoyed the video. Our current compressor is actually a little weak but it gets the job done. Specs: 27 Gallon, 6.5 CFM @ 90psi We typically run around 45-60psi with the regulator for both Aluminum Oxide and the Glass Bead. The main issue we have is the tank runs out of air rather quickly so we have to stop and wait for it to recharge. It made our Diff restoration project quite lengthy - kzbin.info/www/bejne/p4SqkGB4ZrpmnKs Let us know how your project turns out, Cheers!

[@matejcermak]

bro, no grinding plastic with grinding tool. you should use milling tool in dremel or just use countersink bit in drilling machine. Usual drillbits tend to bite deep in the plastic.. And for most people (right-handed) I recommend leading the suction hose through the left side (Side, not front) of the cabinet, so if you need to have gun closer to the right side, you are not braking the hose (which is leading from the right side in your case. Braking the hose or making sharper bends leads to very fast damage, specially of low quality hoses. This way I pointed the metering valve to the left, so hose is making one big bend from it to the box and then gun is on right side of the box but there is some more of the hose on it, just so it can get everywhere around the box. It was around 1.8m of hose(i bought 2m, cut off 20cm). Also I used only 1" knee, connected directly to 1"x1"x1/2" T which has the valve mounted on. I think you have too long piece between the Ts, not sure how that will work. I just dont know what is everyone using the cabinets for, for me it was most important to add filter (just a mesh) for filtering the sand, before that it was clogged all the time by bigger pieces of paint layers and I had to close the gun end with finger and blow it to blow into the suction hose

[@BradleysGarage]

Thanks for the comments. appreciate the feedback. Lots of great ideas, thanks for sharing. We have been very happy with the performance of the blast cabinet. The metering valve, suction hose and trigger seem to work good on the right side. The only challenge we faced was with a larger object it was a little tough to move in the far right corner. Other than that it has been working out nicely. We are mainly blasting steel and aluminum parts that are bare metal so we don't really have a lot of debris contaminating our media. We just switch our from Aluminum Oxide to Glass bead depending on the metals. Thanks again for all ideas and feedback, Cheers!

[@alcasper1908]

When I modify mine, I’ll try the same feed concept but instead of feeding the hoses up through the side of the hopper, I’m going to try feeding them as high as practicable into the back of the cabinet. This way, maybe I can improve the maneuverability of my gun above the item being cleaned to keep it off my hoses. One of bigger issues is crushing them and shutting off supply of air or media. Will be watching for your other videos. Thanks

[@BradleysGarage]

Thanks for the comments Casper, appreciate the ideas. The main thing we have seen is the more flexible the hose to the gun is the easier it will be to maneuver around the cabinet. Just try to locate the most flexible hose to the gun and you will be happier. Let us know how running it to the rear of the cabinet helps with that. Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!

[@bh3141]

best blast cabinet mod video i've found- thx

[@BradleysGarage]

Thanks for kind words BH, appreciate the feedback. Glad you enjoyed the video, Cheers!

[@Curtis1880]

This video is so very thorough and well-made: Thank you!

[@BradleysGarage]

Thanks Dwayne, glad you enjoyed the video. We hope it inspired you to mod your own blast cabinet. Cheers!

[@Hendrix.]

Wish I'd caulked mine, I was very careful in the assembly, used the foam that comes with it, it leaked everywhere.

[@BradleysGarage]

Thanks for the comments Hendrix, that is the one thing we would recommend doing during the assembly process. Since we already built it, we were just focused on the upgrades. Thanks again for the comments, Cheers!

[@Hendrix.]

Good and valuable video though..Great job! @@BradleysGarage

[@BradleysGarage]

@@Hendrix. Thanks for the kind words, glad you enjoyed the video. Cheers!

[@martyharris9725]

Wow great job! Appreciate the time and effort put into this video. I'm making a parts run, in about an hour, and will start working on all the same Mods you did. I have one question please. My glass is 12" X 24" you show the glass panel 24" X 36". Is mine different or did you cut the glass panel you bought down? Thank you.

[@BradleysGarage]

Thanks for the kind words Marty, glad you enjoyed the video. You will need to cut the glass twice, something the hardware store can do for you at the time of purchase. Then you will have (2) extra pieces to swap out once the first one gets pitted and difficult to see through. Have fun on your blast cabinet build, let us know how things go. Cheers!

[@martyharris9725]

Got it that was my guess but wanted to make sure. thanks again@@BradleysGarage

[@BradleysGarage]

@martyharris9725 No worries, glad we could help you out. Cheers!

[@vociferonheraldofthewinter2284]

Another dumb question. Would a bbq grill grate work? Just buy the size that fits the level of the shoot that you want your rack at and set it in. Heck, why couldn't someone buy one that's oversized and cut it down? I'd think that oven racks would work too. Buy a junker stove used for $25, take the racks, cut them down, then toss the rest. Both the BBQ grates and the oven racks are strong enough to hold anything that would fit in the cabinet. Is there a reason those solutions wouldn't work?

[@BradleysGarage]

I believe you are referring to lowering the floor height. I think the BBQ rack or Oven rack is a great idea and if you can find one lying around or pick it up cheap then it might work out great. A typical oven rack size is 24"Wx16"D, whereas the stock cabinet floor measurements are 33"Wx22"D. So it just might sit down in the valley of the cabinet nicely and lower the floor nicely. Will have to play around to see how it looks. Thanks again for the ideas, Cheers!

[@damianbutterworth2434]

I have the same one. Not used it yet. I`ve just fitted a metal mesh grid inside mine for small parts. Good tip for the door thank you.

[@BradleysGarage]

Thanks for the suggestion Damian on those small parts. It's not fun trying to fish out those little pieces when they fall through the grate. Glad you enjoyed the video, hopefully you got some ideas for your cabinet. Cheers!

[@maddoxwca]

Glass was a good idea. I would use my riv-nut tool.

[@BradleysGarage]

We will be looking at adding a Riv-Nut tool Kit to the collection soon, Thanks for watching, Cheers!

[@vociferonheraldofthewinter2284]

Dumb question. (not the first one I've asked) But is there a reason you need the glass that comes with it if you're installing the other glass? Why are two layers necessary? Are they necessary?

[@BradleysGarage]

Hey Herald, thanks for the questions and hanging out on the channel. Technically the second piece is not mandatory but it does act as an extra safety measure if for some reason the bottom piece broke. Also, the plastic frame is the thickness for two pieces of glass. Without the second piece, the single glass would technically be loose in that frame. We just kept the original glass as the top piece and have the cut pieces from Lowe's to replace once they get etched. Even after a couple hours of blasting, the glass gets blurry and it makes it tough to see clearly. Since we are filming restorations a lot, we may need to replace the glass more often than the average user. Another thing we are going to try are the stick on plastic film strips. We shall se how they perform and how long they last compared to the glass pieces. Cheers!

[@Diamonds_Bulli_Ecke]

Hi, can I go with 1 inch to the second T and after that with 3/4 stuff? Thanks

[@BradleysGarage]

Hey Diamond, you shouldn't have any issues if you want to use 1" from the base of the cabinet and then transition to 3/4" at the proportioning valve. Good luck on your project, Cheers!

[@jeffreyphoenix175]

Going to get a cabinet today for Cerakote. Will do most of the mods you describe. Thanks for the information.

[@BradleysGarage]

Thanks for the comments Jeffrey, glad you enjoyed the video. Good luck with your project. Cheers!

[@DanG-ug1ed]

so you are going to replace the glass instead of the flimsy plastic stick-on piece? Rivnuts would make it so you could insert screws from the top again. less stuff sticking up.

[@BradleysGarage]

Thanks for the question Dan. Yes, we swap out the lower piece of glass once it gets pitted from use. Appreciate the suggestions for the RivNuts. Cheers!

[@motoxrider450]

I just built mine exactly how you did…lots of air coming out of the gun but will not pick up the sand. You can see the sand in the line trying to make its way up to the gun but it just won’t do it. Using a 60 gallon compressor at up to 100PSI. Any idea what’s wrong?

[@BradleysGarage]

Hey MotoXRider, thanks for the question, sorry you are having trouble with your Blast Cabinet. The compressor CFM is more important than the PSI and tank size. You need around 6 CFM @ 90 psi in order to move enough blast media through the system. If you only have 2-3 CFM it will be difficult to pull the heavier media types through. We typically run around 40-60 psi at the regulator as additional pressure doesn't really help things. Also check the proportioning valve air inlet as it is usually about halfway open. You can place your finger over the tip of the gun (with the gloves on) to force air back down the siphon tube. This can aid in helping any blockage caused from moisture. Ideally it is best to have a moisture filter at the compressor to prevent moisture from getting in the lines. Let us know how things go with the info above. Cheers!

[@motoxrider450]

@@BradleysGarage thanks for the quick response! My compressor is 11.5 CFM at 90 PSI. I can now manage to get the sand up to the gun but it just gets to the gun and barely comes out. Sometimes not at all. Maybe I need a bigger nozzle? I also have a filter at my compressor as well.

[@BradleysGarage]

@@motoxrider450 That sounds like a great compressor and more than enough CFM to have no issues moving blast media through the gun. I would play around with the pressures and the amount of air at the proportioning valve to find the balance that your setup is seeking. Let us know how things work out, Cheers!

[@motoxrider450]

@@BradleysGarage I figured it out! The blast media was getting up to the gun but wasn’t coming out, so I took the pink nozzle off, and inside there’s another nozzle you can take out with a 7/16 socket. I cut maybe a 1/4” off of that nuzzle and put it back in and it works perfect now! I guess the glass media was getting stuck and didn’t have enough room to flow. All good now! Works perfect!

[@Desertpeople-t7]

This is a great video! Ease to follow. Thank you

[@BradleysGarage]

Thanks for the comments John, glad you enjoyed the video. Cheers!

[@dalemiller9444]

Great video explaining the modifications. I just bought the HF cabinet. I will be doing these upgrades. Thanks!!!!

[@BradleysGarage]

Awesome to hear! Glad our video will help you complete your modifications for your HF cabinet. Just a heads up, I know we mentioned to not worry about caulking the seams, but after months of use we ended up going back and filling up the cracks just to prevent small bits of media eventually seeping through. Other than that this thing really does come alive once these mods are added. Cheers!

[@USMC-Sniper-0137]

I just built mine and reversed the bolts like you did for easy window replacement. So, those bolts they gave us are 4mm? I've been trying to figure that out so I can order the correct thumb nuts. Thanks.

[@BradleysGarage]

Congrats on your build, that's the toughest part. On our box, we definitely have M4 bolts for the window trim. I know another guy said he got M5 in his kit so maybe they got changed along the way. I would just take one bolt to the local hardware store to confirm what size you're working with. Then use the link in the description to order the Knurled Nuts from the link. They are available in both M4 & M5 variants. Cheers!

[@USMC-Sniper-0137]

@@BradleysGarage I'm thinking I might also have M5 as well. My metric calipers read 4.85 mm total width of threads. Can't find my thread tool but looks to be 1mm or less. I was told that you round up on total thread shaft width. Will be heading to Ace soon. Thanks.

[@outtatime4512]

Where did you get the big black round flange for the vacuum pipe at the top of the cabinet? You didn't cover how that mounts to the back. Do I need to take the air trough loose to do this?

[@BradleysGarage]

Hey Eric, we have actually switched over to a Spigot/Hub Flush bushing for inside the lid for the vacuum bucket. After many uses the silicon just did not hold up on the pipe. Here is what we used - thd.co/3LbEt2L Pictures of it installed - ibb.co/zxVsnjS ibb.co/FmH4bGj In regards to the big black flange on the back of the unit, that comes with the cabinet from the factory. We just modified it to accept the abs pipe using a hole saw. That runs down to the bucket and does a great job of removing dust with minimal blast media. Thanks again for hanging out, appreciate the comments. Cheers!

[@JoeOlcese]

Hey Bud, Every time I watch this video to try 1 mod, I see more stuff that I missed. What did you use to cover the left side hole?

[@BradleysGarage]

Hey Joe, the left side hole stays open as that is now your intake for air to be sucked into the cabinet. I only use the black cover when the cabinet is not in use. Hope this helps, Cheers!

[@rogermcinnes7279]

Excellent video dude, time to mod my bad boy!!

[@BradleysGarage]

Thanks for the comments Roger, glad you enjoyed the video. Have fun doing the various mods to your blast cabinet. Let us know how things go, Cheers!

[@langstonjones69]

Rivnuts or nutserts are your friend on that top to hold glass trim. A lot less work installing and changing glass.

[@BradleysGarage]

Hey Jones, thanks for the suggestions. We got a lot of comments about the Nutserts for this project. We will be looking to add that tool to our collection in the near future. Appreciate the feedback, Cheers!

[@Texas_taildraggin]

Nice work! Wish I watched this 12 hrs ago before I started using it today! Definitely going to do these upgrades

[@BradleysGarage]

Thanks for the comments, glad you enjoyed the video. Good luck on the upgrades, let us know how things go. Cheers!

[@Texas_taildraggin]

Thankfully for Amazon prime and the patience to dig through the disorganized pipe section at Home Depot I’m almost done installing all the upgrades!

[@Texas_taildraggin]

Also thank you for the video! Made it easy!

[@BradleysGarage]

@Texas_taildraggin Sounds like you hate shopping as much as us 🙄 Congrats on getting through it. Cheers!

[@BradleysGarage]

@Texas_taildraggin Glad the video helped inspire you. Let us know how the project comes together. Cheers!

[@douglascamster2789]

Hello. On your parts list for Lowes, you list "24" X 36" Glass Panel, 3 pieces". The one piece of glass and one piece of Plexiglas that came with my HF cabinet are both 12" X 24". Am I missing something or do you have a different size window + frame?

[@BradleysGarage]

Hey Douglas, sorry for the confusion on the glass. When you purchase the 24"x36" piece of glass, you have them make (2) cuts in that piece. What you are left with are (3) 12"x24" pieces of glass so you are able to swap out the pitted glass three times. We found this to be the most economical versus using the clear adhesive vinyl protectant sheets. Using straight glass is the clearest option we have found since we do filming through the glass. Good luck on your project, Cheers!

[@douglascamster2789]

@@BradleysGarage OK, got it....thanks.

[@1984keen]

Do you add any filtration media to the bucket or does it catch all the dust? I would imagine using it as a pre filter would be good. Maybe add some poly fill ?

[@BradleysGarage]

We are just using it as a dust collector. No filtration media is being used. Since we are using the metering valve setup, it doesn't take much media for blasting. Therefore we can just scrap the small amount used after it looks too contaminated with metal, rust, etc. Not sure what poly full is? Let us know, Cheers!

[@1984keen]

@@BradleysGarage poly Flo is just pillow stuffing. But I think if it were stuffed in the bucket it would be a great filter media. I like that meter valve, I need to add one to my cabinet. 👍🏼👍🏼

[@melaniesimpson1]

What other piping can I use besides ABS. I can’t find that stuff anywhere

[@BradleysGarage]

Hey Melanie, thanks for the question. We used ABS solely for the aesthetics because they are already black and match the look we were going for. You can just as easily use PVC pipe as well which will be cheaper. Then you can decide if you prefer to paint it black afterwards since it comes white. Let us know how your project goes, Cheers!

[@marang1966]

How big was the hole saw used installing the metering valve? Thanks for the time and energy making this video.

[@BradleysGarage]

Thanks for the question, we used a 1 3/8" hole saw for the conduit fittings. Glad you enjoyed the video, good luck on your blast cabinet build. Cheers!

[@marang1966]

@@BradleysGarage Thanks for replying.

[@BradleysGarage]

@@marang1966 No worries, have fun with the upgrades. Cheers!

[@maddog3080]

Use rivnuts to secure the window frame, then just put bolts in from the outside

[@BradleysGarage]

Thanks for the suggestion Mad Dog. We have received lots of similar comments and will be investing in a Nutsert Kit for future projects. Cheers!