Brakes Pull to the Left Mystery K2500 6.5 Turbo Diesel???

New Brakes Mystery!!! Pulls to the left when applied??????
I started out with a leaking seal on my 96 GMC 6.5ltr Diesel Suburban in the Anti-lock brake system. After replacing the seal I went to bleed the front brakes and snapped off the bleeders. Tried drilling and an easy out with no luck. Ended up buying new calipers. After installing the calipers, I re-bleed the system. When driving and applying brakes there is a big pull to the left. I assumed there was still air in the system so I bleed the brakes numerous times and it still pulled left.
The next logical step was a clogged or faulty brake hose. I replaced the hoses, bleed brakes again and there is still a pull to the left. I still figured theirs gotta be air in the line so I continued to bleed the brakes with no luck. Thus far have bleed 2+quarts and no go!!!
Brake parts I have changed: Pads, rotors, calipers and lines.(no hard lines)
Other info: New tires, hubs, rebuilt hydro-boost
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[@Agent22817]

Brake bleeding tip: a length of clear hose which fits on the bleeder and a bottle. Put the hose into the bottle with some brake fluid in it already above the level of the end of the hose. That way you can one man bleed by pressing the pedal, leave the bleeder open and air won't be able to flow back up the line because the hose end is fully in fluid.

[@AveRage_Joe]

I like this idea!

[@beasyphone]

I thought this was common knowledge but just the other day, a 4x4 shop(pretty big one) hit me up. Well one of their fabricators was asking for my "kit"..confused I handed him(after he drove to Raleigh from Fuquay-Varina about 45mins one way) 4 lengths of R/C fuel line 3/8 ID, and some Gatorade bottles lol. The fact I saw the relief in his eyes made me lose more faith in these younger mechanics once again...if it isn't bluetooth or downloadable they get confused it seems to me lol.. "Where's the brake bleed app??"

[@rodneysmith1750]

Wow, the width, breadth, and depth of your knowledge and experience would have been such an inspiration to me had I seen this stuff of yours 50 years ago! Keep it up "anything but" average Joe!

[@AveRage_Joe]

Well thanks Man!!!🤘

[@libertyauto]

When I worked at my Dad's shop, every once in a while we would come across a similar situation. In some cases it was caused by deteriorating hoses causing inside of hoses to have "debris flaps". Creating a sort of a one way check valve in the hose and lines. In those cases it was happening on the same side as the pull. When pressure was applied, it could not release due to the debris flap, thus pulling to that side. Even after changing the hoses, it took A LOT of bleeding to flush out all of the "debris flaps" that ended up circulating through the brake system.

[@AveRage_Joe]

YEEEES that is what I had in my mind exactly like a little flappy check valve lol but on rt side and not letting fluid get to caliper. I guess it could also be on driver side BUUUT it doesnt "stick" or pull while driving like a sticky caliper which puts me back on rt side. Ive put 2+qts in there trying to bleed it. CRAZY

[@Jimmeh_B]

Yeah, there's that. Also, the rubber flex lines are a double rubber hose, as in doubled layered. Often the inner hose swells and restricts the fluid. If that is the case though, the caliper usually sticks "on" because the fluid can't return.

[@Jhowemca]

This^ You must replace the hoses when you replace a caliper. Many different things make hoses go bad. One I don’t think was mentioned is rust. The little metal brackets/parts connected to the hoses can rust and pinch the hose restricting the fluid from releasing from the calipers. I hope this helps kinda as a return favor to you...

[@readmore7180]

If you didn't already, bleed the rears again also, it might be minimal difference as most braking is from the front, but could be a difference. Pulling to left under braking would tell me the front right brake pads aren't fully engaging. Maybe there is a high spot on the caliper carrier where the pads slide along, possibly a lump of rust, or even a machining error on the brake pad itself not allowing the pads to clamp all the way in on the rotor.

[@AveRage_Joe]

Yep, rear drums were bleed as well! Im in agreement that the rt isnt engaging or clamping fully. If I "ride" the brakes a lil before a stop, it doesnt pull as much which indicated to me a clogged/restricted hose. After changing the hose its the same. Could be in the metal line.

[@vinnie999]

If you figured this out, please let me know what it was. My 97 K2500 Diesel Suburban does the same thing. So far, I've replaced hoses, calipers, pads, rotors, lines, master cylinder, and banjo bolts. Only thing that I haven't done is replace the ABS valve.

[@nicholasviney5975]

croc's the devils foot wear

[@AveRage_Joe]

LOL Wife gave me the Death stare when I said I was going to record her feet pushing the brake pedal. 👁👁😆

[@nicholasviney5975]

​@@AveRage_Joe you're like me always in trouble with the wife :D

[@kmilbabiel3340]

mate I saw your video and it's very good, I have one when you bleed the braking system you have to do it on all 4 wheels or only on the two in front

[@AveRage_Joe]

Its always best to bleed all 4 starting with furthest wheel away but you can get by with the front only.

[@rdwyer583]

Check your new pads for oil contamination. Spray them and rotor off, wipe clean then rough the pads up a bit to let them reform to the rotors

[@AveRage_Joe]

I did actually try that trick lol. Took the pads off and did the karate kid wax on wax off move on the driveway and there was no change. I also had the parts store swap out the new pads for new pads just in case there was an unknown issue!

[@RalfFFM65]

Use a transparent hose on the bleeder valve. The way you can see the liquid and the bubbles and you don't have the mess all over your brakes.

[@AveRage_Joe]

Im gonna have to try that for sure!

[@phizicks]

Usually you do the pedal pumping and draining in order of where the first wheel gets the fluid to the last on the end.... but, you've probably done part 2 by now.

[@AveRage_Joe]

I always do longest run first that way any bubbles go out there first and dont go to another wheel through a Y or X.

[@TripPiper]

Having the same issue with my truck right now

[@Jimmeh_B]

Pro tip from a mobile brake specialist... Take about 1/2 ft of 3/16 vacuum hose, put it through the lid of a soft drink bottle and glue a magnet onto the side of the bottle. When you break the bleed screw, push the hose onto the nipple and stick the bottle to the strut and *BOOM*! One man brake bleeder! Edited to add, also, that's a strange fault. I'd be checking on that valve you replaced the seals on. Looks like some sort of proportioning valve to me, it may be restricting the flow to one side. Hard to tell from the Vid and I ain't never seen on on any of the Master Cyl's I've worked on. Obviously it's different in Aus :)

[@AveRage_Joe]

Love that idea!!!! Ive seen those vacuum bleeder jobys but never wanted to buy one. A guy at work had one and let me borrow it and his was crap. I bet the bottle method works WAY better especially with the magnet. I to thought about an issue with the valve thingy and did actually start there. Had it in and out many times BUT there was no pull to the left after fixing the seal on that valve. Brakes actually worked pretty good. The pull to left only came in after I replaced the calipers.

[@Jimmeh_B]

@@AveRage_Joe Ahhhh cool cool, I must have not picked up on the order of the repairs vs the fault appearing properly when I watched it. And yeah, vac bleeders.... are .... meh at best :) much easier to just pump it through with the pedal, keep the hose as short as possible, pre-fill the drink bottle so that the hose is an inch or two under the fluid, and wait between successive pedal presses. That way as the air is forced out, it's replaced with fluid :) Edit to add: It's most probably the calipers at fault. As you obviously know, there's not a lot to calipers, I'd be checking to make sure there's no restriction in the inlet hole LHS. Beyond that, if the slides are free, it's a head scratcher for sure. Depends if the calipers were just re-kitted or rebuilt. If the piston was replaced, one of them may be the wrong piston. Replacement pistons often fit 6 or more calipers and it's often difficult to figure out which piston you need for a given caliper. There's a chance that one is a couple of thou too big and a bit tight. You could always try swapping the pistons left to right in the calipers, if you're stuck. See if it starts pulling to the right.

[@AveRage_Joe]

Head scratcher for sure lol. Talkn to another mechanic buddy at work(the one I go to if I cant figure something out) and he is stumped also lol.

[@drickles37306]

My suggestion is to bleed the master cylinder first. Then the brake system as before rear to front. Sometimes the master cylinder will have air trapped in it that wont come out without bleeding it first. It is called bench bleeding.

[@AveRage_Joe]

Yeah I could see the air bubbles I had could be from the master cylinder having a lil air in it. I may try this on a bench that way I can move in all directions to make sure air is out!

[@SmudgyContent]

I cracked the brake lines lose to bleed the brakes. Lolz the whole pass side doesn’t work. Guessing air gets back into the system… I started with pass rear, “farthest from master,” then drivers rear, pass front driver front. The drivers side works great and boy it pulls hard enough I feel the ass end kicking sideways

[@njfulwider5]

Hows the drums? and do you have any pinched lines? Kinda strange it still pulled after you bleed them?

[@AveRage_Joe]

Drums are good. PIA but good lol! Very strange this one is. Never came across anything like this especially after new calipers AND lines!!!!

[@jamienow78]

If you want to break less bolts use a wrench when removing so you can tighten and loosen a hundred times a minute. oil and or Heat, anything that's easier than drilling out bolts:)

[@AveRage_Joe]

Fo Sho!!! Thats what I usually do! One of the bleed valves were allready gone. The other stripped the wreching side😲 Kinda caved in on itself. 🤷‍♂️😆🤘

[@darrenbenson2606]

Get a vacuum pump for bleeding brakes. I had one when I rode dirt bikes. It was the only way to get all air out. But have plenty of brake fluid.

[@AveRage_Joe]

I borrowed a hand held vacuum pump from a work buddy but I didnt think it worked very good. A real vacuum pump would work MUCH better! OOOOO I just got an IDEA!!!!

[@SuperVstech]

Another hint, much easier to bleed the brakes with a motive pressure bleeder. And you can build one from a garden sprayer and a spare reservoir cap...

[@AveRage_Joe]

I did try a buddys vacuum bleeder thingy but no change!

[@SuperVstech]

AveRage Joe vacuum bleeders suck... literally and figuratively. The motive PRESSURE bleeder, pushes fluid through the MC, and all the lines, perfect flushing every time. I always siphon out all dirty fluid, wipe down the reservoir, and fill it with clean fluid, then hook up the full motive bleeder, pump it up to 10 psi, check for leaks, then go to the furthest wheel, RR, then LR, then RF then LF. NO PUMPING, of the brake pedal, which can damage the seals on the master cylinder. Perfect, easy fluid bleeding and flushing in clean fluid.

[@AveRage_Joe]

I should have wiped out the reservoir when it was empty but.......you get busy or in a hurry cause its getting late ect lol. I like the sound of that motive pressure bleeder! Will have to look into that for sure!!!

[@GTrainRx7]

Sounds like me. I figured out what was wrong, so I fixed it. While fixing it, I broke something else. Go to 2nd sentence.

[@korishan]

lol yup!

[@AveRage_Joe]

LOL I am in agreement!!!!

[@maxsnts]

Hi Joe, I saw that you did put the stands but did not lower the jack. Consider lower the jack until the stands are pressed. It avoids the unfortunate case where without you realizing something pushed the stands off place... and well... problems.

[@AveRage_Joe]

You are correct, I dont always lower it if im not going under truck. Thanks for the reminder!!!! I dont need anything moving those stands without my knowledge and well.....problems!!!

[@prollymakingyoumadsorry4381]

I’m assuming you checked to make sure the pad moves with almost no resistance in the caliper correct? Make sure it’s not hanging. Seen sometimes the pads are slightly out of spec and hang mid way making one side stop slower then the other. Or that what appears to be an abs/prop valve may be filled with debris. Last idea is that I know some GM products needed the abs system “actuated” to bleed properly.

[@AveRage_Joe]

Yes made sure the pads moved freely in there slide spot, calipers move freely in there spindle spot. Grease in the slidy spots as well. Are you saying actuated abs as in have the abs kick in? If so Ill have a chance for that later today! Its snowing lol

[@prollymakingyoumadsorry4381]

You could give it a shot. Lol. But some scan tools if obd2 do the process. I’ll see if I can find info when I get to work

[@AveRage_Joe]

I made sure to engage the abs a few times last night 😜 Ill try another bleed this weekend!

[@phide01]

I have a 96 gmc suburban 6.5 diesel myself. 330k miles.

[@AveRage_Joe]

NOICE!!!🤘

[@ScottARivers]

Rotors and pads are good? You did bleed the rears?

[@AveRage_Joe]

Yeah new rotors and pads. Hubs to actually! Yeah started with rear(longest first) ended on front driver.

[@samwise9407]

Maybe by removing the seal you first did, caused air to come into the brake master cylinder, have you tried bleeding that? It's super easy. If it's not that, then maybe the air in the master has caused the brake master cylinder seals to fail.

[@AveRage_Joe]

Yes I do believe some air got into the master cylinder and that was some of the bubbles left over. I did end up finding and fixing the problem. Vid 2 should be out in a few days!

[@kevinroberts781]

You have hole somewhere. It could be a bad caliper from the store. Easy to test tho.

[@AveRage_Joe]

If theres a hole, I havent found it yet. Thats why I only found that seal on that valve leaking. I was looking everywhere else lol. Yes I am wondering about a faulty caliper!

[@1959Berre]

Has there been a leak of brake fluid? Check for air bubbles in the system.

[@AveRage_Joe]

Only leak I could find was that valve thingy.

[@frankz1125]

My truck is fkd. I have to pump the peddle a few times before stopping. I just broke my shifter so im shifting from the cable. I just got heat fixed. Im in the country tho.

[@AveRage_Joe]

Pumping is just a warning to the truck letting it know your gonna stop soon😆 Yeah you got a few issues for sure but in the country=ALL GOOD!!💥🤘

[@frankz1125]

@@AveRage_Joe i am slowly fixing it when i get time. But i just dont have much extra time. And really dont care that much. I only paid $200 for it a couple years ago now.

[@robertn915]

Wild guess here but I'm steering towards a master cylinder issue. After all its only rear slave cylinders and master to replace and you may as well do a complete brake overhaul and be done with it. By the look of it, its been a while since any brake work has been carried out on the truck. I'm sure you know all this and would have checked it before, I usually when faced with a issue such as this, start at the cheapest parts first and work on up. Slave cylinders are cheap, either replace them next or at least stick a new set of rubbers and give them a hone with a little wet and dry on a length of dowel, replace them if pitted, using metholated spirits to wash out the grit. Given brake lines should be one continuous pipe, physically check for damage. From memory you work in a workshop, won't the boss let you use a hoist out of hours? What is the collective brains trust of college's thoughts?

[@AveRage_Joe]

I may change the rear cylinders! I would say you are correct in most of the brake system hasnt been touched other then pads. Actually most of the parts on the suburban are still original and this is prime time for everything needing to be replaced lol. I do work in a shop but its a aircraft hanger for the USAF and "they" wouldnt be happy if I drove my truck in there LOL

[@lloydprunier4415]

Don't pump the peddle just push it down then close the valve and repeat. Pumping just stirs up the air bubbles into smaller bubbles.

[@AveRage_Joe]

I guess I could see that!

[@rdwyer583]

Off subject but are you running alternative fuels in your truck?

[@AveRage_Joe]

I WISH!!!! The 6.5 diesel can be a little temperamental with some I hear. My Dad runs WVO in his 5.9 cummins GMC and runs great. He also ran it in the 6.5 as well before the swap.

[@rdwyer583]

My buddy run wmo in his but didn’t filter it well enough and it took out the injection pump. I follow you dad too. I didn’t know he swapped to the 5.9.

[@AveRage_Joe]

Yeah that will do it for sure!!! What engine did he have? I know the 6.5 has an electronic "eye"/sensor in the injection pump that looks for clearness or something like that. I hear the darker oils are harder to run in a 6.5. Yeah my dads truck a few years back he changed out the oil cooler lines and shortly after the crimp on one of the new lines failed while he was driving and damn near drained all the oil and almost seized it. After that he did the 5.9 swap. Id love to do that swap! I may get that wish if I can save up for it as Im having another issue with mine 🙄. The 6.5 is known for head gasket issues along with cracked heads. Im loosing anti-freeze🤔🤐 Sure I could pull the heads.......but well see!

[@squidlings]

Hey AJ, hopefullu u remember me. I was chatting about a electric car conversion using a fork lift. Well ive almost picked up all the parts needed so i can update you. Managed to get the fork motor, a controller, accelerator pedal, ive got qround 1000x 18650's. Ill probably need loads more though. Is there anyway i can send you an email or something....obviously only if your interested. U said you had a motor. So with your skills you could have an ev for $600 or so. Plus the battery. It might be a great youtuby style project.

[@squidlings]

Save u a load in fuel as well.

[@AveRage_Joe]

Yeah I remember for sure. Sounds like your coming along nicely! Yeah my email is on the about me page here on my youtube ch!

[@angeloc3842]

Did you ever figure it out?? Having the same problem 😒😒

[@AveRage_Joe]

Yes, did another video and my issues was one of the banjo bolts were different.

[@ronroberts110]

Does this truck have a brake proportioning valve?

[@AveRage_Joe]

Not that I remember seeing but theres gotta something!

[@MikeSmith-ig6iw]

Great video damn shame you video the caliper job lot a people don't do their own work on their cars anymore which is fine by me my buddy's always bring me their cars an trucks.

[@AveRage_Joe]

Thanks man! Yeah I didnt video the calipers as it was getting late that day! I should have tho. I should have recorded a lot of things Ive done this summer! Front diff, CV shafts, front hubs and rotors, regear the rear to 3:73, oil cooler lines and probly a few other things.

[@Lauren-ci6uv]

It's been weeks! Did you figure out the problem???? Will we ever find out???? Is it a secret?

[@AveRage_Joe]

Its super secret! Like secret squirrel type stuff!🤐😏

[@SuperVstech]

Our hydrostatic booster vehicles are a tad tricky... Dieselplace.com has a great forum for these trucks...

[@AveRage_Joe]

One of the FIRST places I go!!!🤘😎

[@SuperVstech]

AveRage Joe heh... I’m one of the mods there.

[@AveRage_Joe]

NICE!!! Ill be lurking around there smore. Have had a few other issues appear a few weeks back and havent figured it out......yet!

[@ray_banz5899]

I’m having the same problem on my 2013 Silverado 2500. Guy at the auto shop said it’s likely the brake pressure modulator valve. Anyone ever hear of this being the problem?

[@AveRage_Joe]

I guess its possible for sure!

[@ElChucho83]

I’m

[@bjarkegth4098]

New discs?

[@AveRage_Joe]

Yes new rotors and hubs within the last 2 months.

[@YENDORCARLOS]

Solved it yet

[@AveRage_Joe]

Yes! I did another vid on it and the banjo bolts were different in the new caliper boxs😲

[@agger838]

U ever figure it out

[@AveRage_Joe]

Yeah, next vid shows it. My issue was the banjo bolts. Different ones or wrong one was the problem

[@agger838]

@@AveRage_Joe my caliper on opposite side of pull was hanging up all good now after working it in an out to free it up .itll probably come back and will need new caliper

[@jasonflt]

Ya that is frustrating when you change everything and it's still broken. That's when it's time to sit down with a glass of wine and contemplate about life lol. Also shitty Chinese reman part's ugh

[@AveRage_Joe]

I know RIGHT!!! Thats why I hate changing parts that dont need changing. Everything points to a certain thing and its still broke/doesnt work. LOL glass of wine, contemplate life and cheap chinese parts😆

[@lnxpro]

Boom! - First :)

[@AveRage_Joe]

🤣BOOOOOOM💥💥💥💥💥💥🤘

[@stormibeckham5738]

Very detailed and very helpful!

[@AveRage_Joe]

Thank you!

[@beasyphone]

Can we just take a minute to applauded bilsteins psint robots...I mean I threw my 99 4600s in the pants washer and my nhra engineer father thought I replaced them...hooray bimstein..also my xhevy truck hasn't braked right in 2 years, calipers, lines. 6 rotors, 6 sets of pads,master, more lines, new pads again, lots if blood, probably 20 gallons if fluid...I just hold left pre brake, push right in release and if I time everything we'll, my girlfriend doesn't throw up from anxiety and/or fear and the cop behind me doesn't attempt dui stop...VERRRRY tricky at the drag strip=quick pump, slam...stays straight...don't tell North Carolina...they have worse people to worry about....like squatters

[@AveRage_Joe]

100%🙋‍♂️

[@Thebigmanmetaldetecting]

You broke the cardinal rule unless it's completely fucked don't fix it lol

[@AveRage_Joe]

LOL True....sorta. I had to fix since that seal was leaking brake fluid everywhere. All went down hill after that.

[@SuperVstech]

Ok... Here we go. First, you had spongy brakes. Then, you fixed a discovered leak. Ya replaced the calipers. You have antilock box... you need to FULLY bleed all the lines, starting at the rear. THEN after you are all bled, you need to drive on gravel or dirt roads, while pressing on the brakes, this vents out the air from the antilock system...

[@AveRage_Joe]

Yep, pretty much! I was thinking ours "roads" would have been pot holy/washboard enough lol to move the air out of abs but I could probly find a crappyer road to try!😆🤘

[@hombre4295]

tu as changé tes tuyaux pour rien, c'est ta méthode de purge qui n'est pas bonne, il te reste de l'air dans la tuyauterie. Comme tu fais, l'air monte et descend dans le tuyau mais ne sors pas. ton tuyau doit être plongé dans un récipient avec un peu de liquide de frein. quand le frein est appuyé puis relaché, l'air sort et du liquide de frein rentre à la place. Ensuite seulement tu purges ton cylindre de frein.

[@hombre4295]

et il faut purger les 4 roues en commençant par la plus éloignée du bocal de frein.

[@AveRage_Joe]

Yes I have bleed them starting from the rear(longest line first) and end on front drivers. I have put 2+qts through the system!

[@hombre4295]

@@AveRage_Joe utilise un récipient sinon tu auras toujours de l'air

[@hombre4295]

tu dois brancher un petit tuyau sur la vis de purge et faire couler le liquide dans un récipient propre jusqu'à ce que le liquide sorte sans bulle d'air. Attention de ne pas faire baisser le niveau sous le capot en dessous du minimum.

[@AveRage_Joe]

Yep have pretty much done that!👍

[@pinesstudio9036]

too much talking

[@AveRage_Joe]

Thanks for the input!