Brand New DuroMax Not Producing Power!

[@richb4099]

I was a generator technician for 30 years. Your wasting your time thinking it's some sort of break in issue or something your doing. These modern INVERTER units are complex and something is wrong with it. Take it back. If it was shutting down from low oil or some other fault condition, it would probably be apparent. Unfortunately there is no good support network for the huge amount of equipment being sold in the US. Most of it is IMPORT. I don't know if that machine is but finding any facility that would fix it would be difficult. I repaired Onan RV machines as well as welding equipment. Inverter style machines have become the norm and they are far different and more complex than older machines. Since you did nothing to it other than follow the instructions you should get a refund or a replacement......

[@rockystelone21]

would you suggest a diesel generator? Thanks

[@richb4099]

@@rockystelone21 The engine is not the issue. The electronics and controls are. The small portable diesels are junk. I'd never buy one or recommend one...

[@alfranca5961]

Does the generator have a bonded or unbounded Neutral . Do you have an inter Lock going to your separated neutral load center ??

[@alfranca5961]

Looks like you have a main/emergency disconnect outside , which is where ur eutrals nd grounds are bonded. Try a bonding plug if generator is not bonded

[@hinspect]

*_CHIAN_* 😅

[@TriplePlay17]

I have a duromax XP10000EH dual power non-inverter type generator with over 140 hours on it. I put 126 hours on it during hurricane Ian and recently 14 hours for Hurricane Milton. Never broke in, never changed the oil until 140 hours. Ran flawlessly the entire time. I avoided Inverter units because of price, technology and limited repair facilities.Ran 4 ton cental air used judiciously, ran entire electric house without a problem. Always used major appliances individually to lighten the starting load. It's a workhorse. Note- have not run generator on propane as of this time.

[@GH-wt7ww]

I'm in the market looking for a high wattage portable inverter generator. Based on this video and reviews , this brand has been thrown out of my mind even considering for purchase. Great video

[@b61mack56]

If you look close. It's going from power to overload which will kick you off line. Return it as a defective unit.

[@throttlebottle5906]

ok, by 4:03 I suggest never transferring the whole house load at once, as it will likely have way too high of a "peak draw" for it to overcome. especially with all of the switch mode power supply/highly capacitive devices of today, including LED bulbs/dimmer/chargers/EMC motors (the list is really endless) in power outage, go inside and turn off "all" breakers in the indoor panel, then outside and transfer the "main/generator disconnect/interlock". now go back inside and slowly turn on "ONLY" the important required circuits, while being mindful of delayed starting of appliances/hvac/other gear! **trying to directly transfer the whole home load at once, could draw peak surge currents in multi-thousands of amps! that will clearly overload most any generator. I seen a few of the other comments saying it's the generator and etc. BUT now days, the huge capacitive loading can and does blow the power company HV fuses, if a voltage changer transformer switches taps or line work triggers an short power outage.

[@glenmiller8888]

I repaired large Inverters for a living, also worked in a electric motor shop for 9 years, early in my career. I tried finding specs for that unit. Each time you lost power, the overload light came on. I am going to suggest you try something. First turn the breaker for the AC unit off. Next turn every electric load you have on in the house. Preferably, a electric dryer, turn it on first. Next a electric stove if you have it, turn the oven on, and some burners. You may have a pannel imballance, although I strongly suspect this is not capable of starting anything bigger than 2 HP . Inrush current is typically 6 to 10 times run current. So a 2 HP is 1492 Watts times 10 = 14.92 KW, A AC unit of 2 Ton ( which is what I used for calculations), or larger may not start with that generator. I would be willing to bet, you could run right up to 14 KW continuous, provided say like a dryer, was started first -That is all motors were started first before additional loads were added.

[@Texanfirst727]

Soft start needed on the AC. This guy has to know what is AC LRA is calling for to start.

[@backyardwildlifeintexas387]

From what I understand, the entire output panel is GFCI protected. This generator is Neutral bonded which means you have two bonded locations in your “system”. This is a problem and it’s my suspicion that is what’s cutting your power. You need to either unbind the neutral from ground on the generator or put in a three pole disconnect that will unbind the neutral connection along with the two hot wires in your main panel. I have the same generator and have decided to unbind my generator. There’s a guy on KZbin who shows how to do it.

[@backyardwildlifeintexas387]

Actually, I just tried the mod on mine and it did not work. The guy who floated the neutral on his had six wires and I had five. I still think the double bonding might be your problem… but I’m not an electrician.

[@-GrimEngineer-1337]

Electronic issue. 3KW is more than enough for power sensing, and only 1/5 of your rated load. Return it for a replacement. The inverter electronics are faulty. May be a bad feedback power gain issue with the inverter output power sense. Break in has nothing to do with it. As a side note, does it still do it with the eco mode idle control off? If you have an amp clamp, set it to max capture on each leg of 240V and see if something is spiking the inverter. I doubt it, that inverter should be able to handle a 75-100 amp spike.

[@russellhltn1396]

5:27 The overload light is coming on. According to the rating on the side, any surge over 66A on either phase will overload. The plug is only rated for 50A, and that's about all that unit can do. You probably have a 100A service to your house. The generator is probably not going to be enough to run your whole house the way you're used to. You're going to have to limit what's running. Something might be trying to start and causing a surge the generator can't handle. Second - is that a solar panel on the roof I see? That generator isn't going to tolerate having a solar system try to feed excess power into it like you can with the power company. I'd start by turning off any solar and then limiting the loads you have. You might also try using your amp meter to see what's really being drawn. Make sure one phase isn't overloading the unit.

[@jorgea3507]

i have the duromax also it is a 50 amp. It looks like he is running the ac for house which usually is 60amp.

[@brjr2009]

Defective unit. return it.

[@catwrangler1613]

I have a 10k watt surge to 12.5k watt my circuit breaker kept tripping when my a/c unit would come on. the Amp surge from both the indoor and outdoor units would trip the breaker on the unit. so I kept the indoor fan running all the time and that fixed that problem. also ur hot water heater may be coming on and most pull 20amps, so turn it off and run it when ur a/c is not running. hope this helps

[@jimweinheimer]

The best generator guy out there is youtuber James Condon. Reach out to him

[@Ilikecomputers64]

Love your videos!!!!

[@John-yf4ie]

Our first Generator was a Dura Max and quit running after 1hr. only had it connected to the cord that we special ordered for that brand. We took it back the day and the store started it and after 1/2 hr it quit. We ended buying the Champion with their special cord. That was back in 2011 and it still runs great. We also purchased a special tent for the Champion for using when it snows! I'd take it back!!!

[@jagfandaddy2878]

I agree. It sounds like it’s defective. I’ve e got a Generac 17.5 kW and I’m running my house on it. Four ton a/c

[@AdamsTommy-cp3hy]

Mine did the same thing and I took it back

[@JohnSmith-ug5ci]

It has nothing to do with break-in time. Bad voltage regulator is probably the issue.

[@harveypaxton1232]

Maybe James Condon who has a great you tube channel could offer some insight.

[@bretthibbs6083]

I was going to just say the same thing that guy is awesome with generators.

[@bobbitchun8659]

The guy is a guru!

[@for2utube]

If the load is too unbalanced they’ll trip off. Do you have a large 120V load (washer or compressor) turning on?

[@jkbrown5496]

If you test it with the lower draw like you did on the break in and it doesn't do it, then that would be a strong indication that something electronic is overheating and shutting down. Maybe the AVR or the Inverter board itself. The "inverter" section is just like an ECM module only putting out single phase instead of motor controller output. Both take the AC, rectify it then invert back to AC (3 phase for the motor control or single split phase 240 for the generator)

[@photog1529]

I saw another KZbinr with this same unit. He removed the instrument panel and disconnected the machine's neutral wires, bolted them together, and protected the terminals with electrical tape....relied on the neutral in the home. He was running two central units, tankless water heater, and entire home without any issues pulling maybe 9kW max. Try that, or you have a defective machine. He was running two 50A cords from his Duromax to two separate transfer switches, with heavier loads (HVAC, etc) split between them. He also turned on his loads one at a time...not all at once. Also had soft starts on his two central units. Could be you're just overloading the circuit with your all your house loads on when making the switch. I was originally considering a Generac but the Duromax caught my eye. It'll be wait and see for me.

[@tonykinser2678]

Take it back

[@cheooo07]

Any update?

[@AustinTaylor-b1o]

Hey Curtis, just a few thoughts. At 3.2 kw, not knowing how much is 240 and how much is 120 we're loosely around 13-26 amps, and it looks like you're running off the 50 amp circuit. I put soft starts on units a lot now, and have them on all of mine. My 5-Ton went from 147.8 Amps inrush to 33.6, 3-Ton on the guest house went from 96.74 to 25.1, office 3.5 Ton went from 78.09 to 22.4, and my office managers house went from 78.08 amps to 28.0 amps. All were done for generator and longevity purposes. I suppose I should have asked if this happens when you're not running the A/C. I do feel your pain though. I bought four Westinghouse WGen20000 generators to get two that actually worked. Thanks for the great videos. I never miss one.

[@robertpeters9438]

Must have soft start on AC and blower...unless they are variable speed which start slow with lower loads. Same for any well pump. Same for big tools. If electric water heater, you could add a switch to prevent both top of tank and bottom tank heaters from running at the same time. That will halve its inrush. An electric stove can easily pull 40 amps all by itself! Only try by itself or with AC or furnace already running to avoid start surge. Hair dryers use 15 amps each. You might need to no your hot water tank temp to 140F running on only 1 lower heater element and turn it off during hair dryers and cooking breakfast. Some refrigerators can use soft starts, but most cannot. BE SURE TO WAIT FIVE MINUTES AFTER AC TURNING OFF OR SATISFYING BEFORE RESTARTING IT. YOU COULD DAMAGE IT SHUTTING IT DOWN ON OVERLOAD OR OTHERWISE AND RESTARTING IT SOONER THAN 5 MINUTES. ALWAYS TURN ON AC FOR 24 HRS WITH THERMOSTAT OFF BEFORE RUNNING IT IN SPRING. ITS HEATER ON THE MOTOR MUST RUN 24 HRS BEFORE STARTING THE MOTOR BY CALLING FOR COOLING!!!

[@robertpeters9438]

A whole house solar inverter with generator input can use a battery to add power to what the generator can provide to address those peak power demands!!! And immediately charge the battery if the maximum generator output is exceeded. It can also get you over the hump in high demand between waking and breakfast without requiring a 25 to 35 kilowatt generator. And this setup does not require solar pannels. Hope this helps.

[@dennisbrantley6925]

You may be pulling more than 50 amps. Its rated at more output but the cord and outlet used only supports 50. Your running an ac unit, lighting, a well pump, and hot water heater. I think its going off on overload protection.

[@throttlebottle5906]

7:50 pretty sure you have something doing a delayed turn on, drawing a huge start current and the inverter models will trip offline. it could be a fridge, freezer, sump pump, well pump, hvac gear, dehumidifier, older security light(non-led or led), randfom other motor with failing capacitor(attic exhaust fan?) the list goes on and on. I suggest trying my previous comment suggestions while monitoring current on both hot legs(peak meters), then a different generator. if no go warranty return the 💩

[@photog1529]

Has there been any followup? Did you ever find out the problem? I was thinking of a Duromax, but holding off for a bit.

[@Eddy63]

In the famous words of Elvis , Return To Sender ... Thx

[@timquaite397]

The overload light came on the last time, possible a large load is turning on in your house and overloading it?

[@rcinfla9017]

Sounds like inverter is switching off for some reason and requires a restart to reactivate inverter. Most likely cause is a surge overload, like air conditioner compressor activating. The issue you are seeing is exactly what happens if you overload generator. Don't run ECO mode when you know you are going to get a large surge startup appliance like A/C. When on ECO mode, at lower RPM, when an additional sudden load appears the peaks of the AC output sinewave will be clipped at lower voltage until engine rpms revs up to support the additional load. If the voltage dip and/or surge current last too long the inverter will shut down.

[@iamnoone.]

Voltage regulator is overheating and shutting down. Return it for a refund.

[@v12mike30]

You have the equipment to measure the peak load current, if it is within the generator specs, then it is a faulty generator.

[@OcRefrig]

i Saw the " Co " Light come on at 6:00-6:10 on the Video. is that normal ? Faulty CO sensor ???

[@Deploracle]

Have a look at the Automatic Voltage Regulator.

[@hinspect]

I wish we could afford/justify a generator. Thanks for posting this! 😊

[@mikeswick6473]

I know people who never broke in their generators or change the oil and neither have ever done that

[@peterfairlie2296]

That generator without doubt has an internal Automatic Voltage Regulator (AVR) issue. You're doing nothing wrong, that generator is defective.

[@respectbigman3133]

generator neutral is the problem.

[@OcRefrig]

Curtis , Put a Amp Clamp on Each Leg in the Panel serving the Load. Set the Meters to capture " inrush " Watch Your Meters and see if When something kicks on it's more than what the unit is rated for. Remember --- You can only Pull 50 amps the way You Have it set up right now. You are only using one Outlet. maybe not even 50 /outlet. check book. No Matter what the Generator is a Rated at You Can ONLY pull 50 amps on that one Outlet. i'm guessing the when the a/c unit kicks on the unit kicks out. if so check in rush on a/c unit condenser & see what generator is specced for. if it's within spec. Return unit as defective. for testing purposes - Plug in a bunch of stuff in the generator it self - when it's NOT hooked to the house. plug in a couple 1,500 watt space heaters. some halogen lights etc and just see if generator will work properly When NOT hooked to the house. If it does not even work when its standalone - Then Return it as Defective. as far as Break in time - You have done plenty. a couple hours is plenty. Check the Book as Far as Grounding. what they want. just read that part. see if higher loads require a ground rod into the earth. to Eliminate static or noise on the line. But , First check generator stand alone. on Resistive Loads First. That way Thier are no spikes & You are Testing a Steady Load. if Generator kicks out under steady resistive Load. its Faulty. Return unit as defective. Monitor voltage on the 115 volt lines with 2 " Kill - a watt " meters. while testing. Watch James Condon on youtube - His testing method is at the End of Mist of his videos. He is pretty awesome as Far as a Generator guy testing & Fixing portable generators. He Makes Great videos & is Very knowledgeable. Good Luck ! 🍀

[@markjones7268]

I don't have any experience with that one, but I have had this problem becore. The slip rings on the alternator had corrosion and the brushes were making poor contact with slip rings.

[@DumbDadDuties]

What did you do? Swap the unit?

[@paultice610]

Sounds to me like there’s a problem with the inverter board. One of the components might have a bad solder joint to where it loses connection once it heats up or just a bad component altogether that is cutting power off. Do you have to turn it all the way off to reset it, or does it have a reset button to reset? The inverter board might be in that system where the malfunction is? Maybe I think I would be trying to do a warranty claim on that one because those aren’t cheap.

[@HVACGUY]

He is a lieutenant

[@paultice610]

@@HVACGUY i see that some of what I said the other day is not spelled right sorry for that I was using voice text and did not proofread before posting

[@jme36053]

You’re kicking on the circuit overload light when you’re losing power. I don’t know how this particular model is wired, but you may have a faulty (out of spec) 50A circuit breaker. Conversely, your digital display may also be falsely reporting. Have you independently measured your amp draw when failure occurs?

[@jiminsav]

well, how many amps are you running in the house, or is the genny only running the a/c.

[@ewebbytrailscout]

perhaps there is some packaging inside the unit over heat protection?

[@Wintersky136]

Did you check your phasebalancing? Remember 50A per Phase x 240 V = 12.000 Watts! Meaning 6 kW per phase!

[@machaf]

What was the outcome of this generator?

[@willg6997]

So do you have any updates on your issues?

[@rebus570]

My brother & I were sharing a 3000w Champion & it was doing ok running both a 6000btu & a 8000btu window units but could not run both & the washing machine too but it was working every thing else, he works for a Yamaha dealer & brought home a 7200w generator & when i hooked it up it immediately tripped its output cir breaker, read the manual & found out it was a GFCI breaker, I had installed a new panel some years ago & did not isolate grounds & neutrals so I had to take the tie bar off & move all neutrals to 1 buss & grounds to the other buss that ground rod was connected to & move the box bonding screw to ground buss isolating the ground system from neutrals & it worked like a champ then, its a regular generator not an inverter one, for heavy loads NEVER use an inverter gen they are not reliable enough for an emergency situation just buy a regular generator & you will be happy with that & have peace of mind knowing it will work when you need it most.

[@Paul-IE-Repairs]

overload protection is on, i believe the LRA on the compressor is exceeding the 50a rating your generator can handle with the additional load of appliances. Also, look for bad grounds that might be causing an Arc fault, you are still not isolated from the neutral and that could be causing your issues.

[@princesswalt4010]

I noticed you have solar on the roof. When you transfer to the generator, is your PV still providing power as well?

[@HVACGUY]

Yes, as long as there’s a power supply.

[@GannDolph]

@@HVACGUYi've heard that "grid-tie" solar inverters that detect and sync with the AC sine wave can blow up some inverters and in general don't always play well with anything but the actual grid. I'm sure this is highly dependent on the specific equipment involved, but when you get a replacement unit I'd suggest testing standalone under load first , then check there's zero voltage between generator's output neutral and ground; if there is then make sure house is fully unbonded before hooking up. then test house but with solar system deactivated. test with solar last.

[@princesswalt4010]

@@HVACGUY try disconnecting the pv while on generator to see if it caused any issues?

[@peterfairlie2296]

@@HVACGUY I would try it without the PV back feeding the generator. I think this could be the issue!

[@raygunsforronnie847]

Inspector Riley on the job...

[@jdollar5852]

Im late to the game. Maybe you've done it, but i would switch off every breaker in your sub panel, connect the generator, and THEN turn on ONLY the AC. If the genny does the same thing, then repeat the process with some high draw appliances that don't have such a high start-up requirement. Im guessing your unit is bad, but I would try to eliminate the AC. It's your highest start-up appliance and may require a soft start, but I'd think such a big generator would run it. I don't have this brand, but I have a 5k dual fuel, and I can run every 20 amp circuit in my house with no problem. I just have to manage the loads and not try to run the microwave or coffee maker together. We are all electric, so we have a small induction plate for cooking whule on the genny. I have a smart start device that will allow me to run my 220v appliances, but that pushes the genny to the max. We live in Georgia, and have a 12k mini split because we didn't want to use a huge generator. We can live without our clothes dryer and water heater for a day or 2, but AC isn't an option.

[@gabrielstern4992]

Curtis I think it might be because your panels are producing power which is telling the inverter it does not need any power. So my question is do you just have solar panels and an inverter without any batteries or do you have batteries to store power from the panels. Also do you own the solar or are you leasing. If you are leasing when the lease is up make them take the system and buy your own stuff and build your own. But I suggest if you don't have bateries to store power you purchase them you can get eg4 batteries. Also Curtis if you are leasing the system find out the cost to buy out the lease so you own the system but you need bateries if you don't have them and then you can configure the generator to run through the solar inverter if it's a good one like the solark 15k and tell the generator to charge the batteries but also act like utility power.

[@HVACGUY]

Just panels with a micro inverter - no batteries

[@gabrielstern4992]

​@HVACGUY you need to add batteries to the system when the panels are producing power it's telling the generator to go to idle where if you add batteries you can tie the generator to the batteries so it keeps the batteries charged in case their is not enough sunshine or if the power goes out and it's nightime but you will have to reprogram your inverter or upgrade I like the solark 15 k here is am exaxample where the Californians are not so crazy with pushing bateries to add to the solar system so it can store power when you need it and then you can use the genarator like utility power when you need it.

[@no1but24]

I seen the AC unit running, do you have a soft start on the unit? just wondering if the units start up draw was causing the overload.

[@OnusBones]

The inverter is defective, possibly overheating. I'd return it. If too late, check all internal heat sinks for proper attachment and verify that thermal compound was properly applied. If not, Arctic Silver 5 is a good safe choice.

[@JohnMerchant-rg3rh]

My guess is you have a bad voltage regulator.

[@bodereiss]

Gotta shut off all the breakers in the house, hook up the generator and the add the load gradually to see if it’s a particular load /device causing the issue. I think others are ultimately right and you will end up with a different one. But since you are in this deep I’d do one more test as described

[@kevinr5187]

Must be an internal overload.

[@TexasEngineer]

Repeat the same and slowly ramp up the loads in your house. The problem may be you are overdrawing only on one leg. The AC may be the problem with its LRA in combination with everything else. Put you amp clamp on the different 120 v branches and you might be using only one leg. Measure the amp draw on each incoming leg. It sounds like an overloaded safety circuit is cutting out. Check for loose connectors, everywhere. Feel the breakers to see if they are warm. You may be returning if nothing shows up on your end. My first suspect is the AC startup. Measure your pump startup draw. You may need a variable speed AC. Mine draws 16 amps on high and much less using only first stage and never any LRA.

[@llandes9273]

I mean the 30 amp outlet. The 220 volt has a 4 prong recptical.

[@rockystelone21]

those cost a lot of money! take that machine back

[@richb4099]

The inverter section is usually one sealed unit. The engine drives a power unit and it produces 3 phase AC power that is fed into the inverter section. The inverter section changes it to DC power and then back to AC power. It will always be 60 Hz regardless of engine speed. The only issue I ever saw where the inverter section did not produce power other than being bad was a machine that had a non resistor spark plug in it. The RF from that plug prevented something in the inverter from producing the normal output power. Some of those portables have GFCI protection and some don’t. If it was a GFCI issue it would trip immediately. If it was a grounding or bonding issue my guess would be it would fault immediately.

[@pkty757]

Those seem to have pretty good reviews but you may have just gotten a lemon. Exchange it and you’ll be fine. Me , out of curiosity would just run the basics in the house and work my way up to the 240 devices. Keep us posted on what you find. Thanks for posting

[@philw8606]

I know im late to the party. The problem is the duromax generators dont put out rated power. The higher starting power is the reason it works for a while then fails under load. If your looking for one that is pretty reliable and wont bankrupt you try westinghouse.

[@robalexander7348]

I don't know Curtis, may be return it for a exchange, or get your money back... Good luck anyway. 👍 Au

[@michaelgriggs6903]

Damn flux capacitor. Has this been updated yet?

[@cph3459]

The break in refers to the engine only. The only reason it refers to how much load is because it puts load on the engine. I would say you may have a ground issue that is kicking the breaker off

[@johnwalker890]

You might have to disconnect the propane line when you run on gasoline, or take back and tell them you want your money back, I use a Champion inverter generator, don't know enough about Duromax myself........

[@jw8292]

My gut tells me there's an issue with that generator, but, in the interest of being thorough, make sure you don't have some kind of weird floating neutral/bonded neutral ground loop thing going on, or something in the house spewing some kind of RF or electrical noise back onto the line (like your solar system). Definitely a long shot, but I've seen both problems make electronics behave strangely.

[@staind288]

It's not break-in.. That's for the engine only. It's a defective unit.

[@ChrisSuper777]

I think it is set up where if it doesn’t sense a load over a certain minimum amps in a certain amount of time, it will cut power generation and just idle until the minimum is met. Just a guess tho

[@lorenelynnkinderlefevre7992]

Take that back and buy a Honda. It’s worth the extra money.

[@Garth2011]

Personally, I would plug in whatever you have that has a high draw such as electric heaters or air compressor etc. and see how it does without dealing with your house. If it works without the house, the problem could be house wiring issues are messing with the generator safety sensors blah blah.

[@goodoleme]

Did you disconnect the solar? You could be back feeding the genset. With the utility open, the excess power from the solar has nowhere to go. Also, the enphsse micro inverters voltage may be too high for the genset.

[@chuckmayerchak3071]

Break-in has nothing to do with power production. Break in procedure is for proper engine performance. You have a defective generator. You need to return it for repair or replacement. I must say for as much electrical repair that you do, I'm amazed that you would even ask this question!

[@walterskelton411]

Well done. I think you got some petrol (gas) in there 😄

[@waynemitchell7871]

Is it possible if there is a ground on the machine that has to go to earth ground could cause this problem. I know a lot of generators do have a place to ground the unit out. That’s my suggestion maybe give that a try or perhaps you already returned the unit.

[@hinspect]

Get a high rated Gen from Home Depot or someplace that stocks them for quick replacement 💰 (my opinion)

[@kuhrd]

Just a thought but if a grid-tie PV system is connected to the same sub panel that the generator is connected to then you likely have the grid tie system syncing with the generator and trying to back-feed it (this often takes a few minutes as the anti-islanding protection waits for a steady grid signal). The grid tie systems all use frequency shift to output power so they will try and increase the frequency output which the generator is likely trying to compensate for by slowing down but then disconnects with an overload because it does not know what to do since the voltage regulator has compensated as far as it can. If this happens even with just basic tools and equipment all powered without being connected to the house then I would look and taking the unit back and getting it exchanged or repaired.

[@robertpeters9438]

Are you supposed to use 100% gasoline without any ethanol????

[@Texanfirst727]

Your overload light came on.... Suspect you need a soft start on your AC. See what your AC LRA draw is at AC start up.

[@Critical-Thinker895]

There's nothing wrong with the generator. You can't run eco with heavy loads. It should say that somewhere in your documentation. I have a different brand inverter generator and it overloads trying to make up for the surges with the inverter while it's ramping up the engine to handle it. You have an a/c with no soft start, a water pump, and no telling what else that will surge the line. You should have an overload reset button on there somewhere to hit when it does that. No need to turn it off and restart. Run it with eco off for the kind of loads your house has.

[@jeffsomers28]

Have them send you a new AVR to try before trouble of returning. To much electronics in modern gennys.

[@darush1001]

Try checking if your running it at thr right RPM....increase

[@PianoRevisited]

Like a lot of stuff these days - it's just junk, Curtis. I'd positively return it and would not get another of that brand. I have a Honda 6500 generator that's 12 years old which I use multiple times a year and which made it through two separate 10 day outages and has only acted up once during that time and it turned out that the extension cord Plug was the issue. I replaced the cord and the Honda was up and running fine again. I never did any break- in period. Now it won't power my AC ( not enough juice ) but it runs enough stuff that you can get by quite nicely. I use 89 gas and add stabilizer and change the oil once a year. I run it for 20 minutes every 2-3 weeks to keep the battery charged and the Honda batteries last about 5 years. It's been completely trouble free. It is NOT an invertor generator.

[@jimharmon3404]

Check the manual and see if it requires a ground rod at the generator just as the NEC requires a ground at the source transformer. If that doesn't do it return it and get a whole house Genrac or equivalent. Make it a 20Kva so it can handle starting your freezers and AC at the same time. I think it will require a 1 or 1.5 in gas main to feed it, your BBQ hose won't do it. Now that I think of it check to see if you freezer or fridge starts just as it fails. Gee if only you knew someone that had a clamp on amp meter with peak hold! Let us know the results of that test.

[@bobbym6964]

Someone commented you also have a solar feed into the house. Try turning the solar off. The solar inverters use the Utility frequency to sync. The gen set HZ may not be accurate enough for the solar system to work properly in tandem. I can't really tell but the SO cord should be #6 or #4 copper for 13kw/240=55amps at 50ft. Check southwire's 600V ROYAL® SOOW Cord Need to test the generator with just by itself ( not plugged into the house), with like a table saw, space heater, window AC unit, to see if the outcome is the same.

[@markdenenberg9110]

Ac unit compressor pulls more then 50 amps on start up,well pump and ac probably starting at same time is to much of a draw. Gen probably not defective.

[@napasmith5689]

I thought your video showed 240 voltage initially, and then 120 volts at the time it was having problems. Then went to zero.

[@kg4muc]

Don’t think that’s any kind of break in problem Some sort of internal failure probably a fet that gets hot and attempts a thermal runaway but the system sees it and kills before before the power quality caused any problems with its load. I think they need to ship you a replacement unit

[@hectortoledo5914]

Weird u would assume duromax to test their product before shipping

[@GarrettReardon]

I have the 9000iH version of this generator and it turned into a complete pain after Hurricane Milton... did it work? Yea, barely. It just seems overly complicated with far too many points of failure. Fuses behind the panel, the panel screen itself, solenoids, batteries, all of it. The manual doesn't mention that there are fuses behind the control surface, which is honestly moronic. Even when I called DuroMax support, they had no idea what could be wrong with it. Said to take it to a repair shop that's over an hour away to have them look at it. It started fluctuating between 240 and 120 volts like your was doing on the screen read out, and they had no idea what could cause it. Then the screen just stopped turning on, no big deal, just pull start it... nope, the screen has to be powered on via the battery or the AC trickle charger for it to be hand cranked. Just needlessly complicated. I was on the verge of buying the 16000iH model of the generator like you have, but I am happy I didn't shell out $5k to have the same experience.

[@182QKFTW]

James Condon @jcondon1 could have that whooped in a second! It has to be something to do with the "controller" that powers the windings and regulates the voltage. Like others are saying...Take It Back!

[@HVACRSurvival]

I watched this guy on KZbin once he fixed a leak detector once with a sledgehammer😮 maybe you should try that and see if that’ll fix the generator 😅🤣🤣. In all seriousness now, I’m gonna say break-in is purely about the motor break-in, getting rid of the shavings and setting the rings. Your problem is electrical and like the other 55,000 people said it’s a voltage regulator or something else that you’re not gonna be able to fix and you shouldn’t have to fix it. Get swapped out for another generator if it’s under the return policy. If not, then I would start voltage regulator or control circuitry for it.

[@JulioRodriguez-he4im]

I have the same issue with one of my customers and is nothing you doing wrong, just the generator is defective.

[@AdamsTommy-cp3hy]

It is your circuit board going bad in it

[@dukesworld3020]

The new inverter generators are not any good when they go bad. take it back and swap it. That's the only fix for it. Most can't be repaired here in the states.

[@chrisdevitto4340]

Popycock I’ve repaired several different sizes and brands, part sourcing can be a pain, but they can be repaired. You have to weigh the cost of replacement parts versus buying new. Watch James Condon’s channel he has repaired many.

[@robertduncan2742]

Exchange it electronic issues

[@vbarbee1]

It's new, return it