Bricking up steel beams

[@GaryChristou]

Love your channel fast moving nice editing and voice over and plenty of content.

[@garyharris184]

When packing steels use slate hammered in tight if you use sand cement all be it sharp sand you dont get the compresion you need and it can also shrink and leave tiny gaps always slate common practise Good luck

[@MMG_MoonManGuitar]

Just found this channel. Brilliant video and love your take on things. Will be nice to see this project come together! 👍🏾

[@OfficeBoyBuilder]

Cheers for the encouragement! Glad you're enjoying it so far.

[@wilkinsoncarpentry6278]

I remember we were renovating an old court house and we had to pack out the steel beams and used dry grout , never heard of it before and since that job I’ve recommended it for so many things , sets so solid .... who would think that dry grout would be so strong

[@hpt08]

The strongest concrete pavements, eg airfields, are made with the lowest water cement ratios possible. Water actually weakens the maximum cement strength after the key ratio. I think it's 0.3 wcr, but haven't done these kind of designs since the eighties so am a bit foggy! 😁

[@gedw99]

Use expanding cement in the gap above the beam. It expands as it cures to fully fill the gap evenly which is important . The mortar mix is ok but not optimal for even load distribution down onto the beam

[@j-lizgriffith6391]

Does the lime in the cement not degrade the steel beam?

[@southdevonhomes-jonnystand4039]

Good videos mate, man made slate is great for packing. You shouldn’t use natural slate as far as I am aware. What I would suggest is be more accurate with the chopping out for steel then you won’t have a massive amount to re build. Keep up with the videos don’t listen to the strolls.

[@GeeTheBuilder]

Had assumed you were doing this all yourself. Now there’s talk of a “brickie” and a “plumber” 😮 I do it all myself. But I have been doing this for 30y and I had an office job for 27y till Dec last year. A warm comfortable desk seems nice these days lol! Good luck anyway, finding decent subs is very difficult. 👍

[@OfficeBoyBuilder]

Cheers mate. I'm quite happy to push my limits, but I embrace them too. It felt a bit too risky for things that I've never done before that felt really crucial (foundations specifically). The thought of getting the water/gas wrong just fills me with dread! I have a ton of respect for those that can do it all well, but I also see the value in people having trained for years to get good at one specific trade. I feel I've been very blessed with the subs I've had working here so far. Pretty much all of the rest of this build is on me from now on.

[@GeeTheBuilder]

@@OfficeBoyBuilder I used subs but was constantly let down. Even by a plasterer who I said “please, just don’t lie to me.” He lied about not turning up one day. So I’ve learnt to plaster, plumb, electrics, dug and poured all the foundations for my massive house extension. So I do it all, fitting doors, bricklaying etc. Takes A LOT longer but I can keep the quality very high. And I enjoy it all. One good sub was the roofer. He was great, which was good for me cuz I ain’t great with heights 😐 Good luck with it all 👍

[@flinttstone]

Great video, I’ll shortly be fitting an rsj up to my flat roof, would it need a dpm between the timber roof and rsj also fixing to the wall plate? Many thanks

[@OfficeBoyBuilder]

Generally not, but always worth checking with building control as they are asking for them in more places now.

[@FinoMarg]

will there be proper bond of brick masonry with steel beams?? have u tested the bond by hammering?? do they still have the bond??

[@user-cn1em2qx6f]

my house is 9inch walls. i think built with lime. im looking at replacing bay window opening lintel which is just 3joists joined together. rotten quite bad. the floor joists then sit on top of this. what would you say the best type of lintel is for this. steel?

[@OfficeBoyBuilder]

I think another timber would be fine, depending on the width of the bay. Consider how old your property is, and how long those timbers have been working...bay often don't have fantastic foundations below them, so adding significant weight from a steel wouldn't necessarily be the best option, despite being stronger. If in doubt, double check with a structural engineer 💪👍

[@user-cn1em2qx6f]

@@OfficeBoyBuilder yeah i though that too. might just try repair where its rotted as the leak from bay roof is repaired. thanks for reply

[@OfficeBoyBuilder]

You can cut out rot and sister it with new timber, that works fine, so long as you get all the rot out. Sistering within a bay may be difficult though, because you don't want the timber projecting out into the room where it's repaired...best if luck!

[@GC-jo1rn]

How do you bond the mortar to the beam

[@OfficeBoyBuilder]

It sets hard, and sits on top of the steel - it doesn't specifically bond to it, but because they are all so strong and held under compression, they don't move.

[@dannymurphy1779]

Nice bit of donald m8! That's wat you calls it in Sarf London innit???

[@elliottwatkins9086]

Should be packed with slate

[@Fromupnorth46]

Should be dry packing with slate not sand and cement.

[@andrewpalij4691]

Don't listen to anyone who says pack with slate its a bodge always dry pack as you have. Slate dosent have the compressive strength needed i have even seen numptys packing steels up of padstones with slate.

[@OfficeBoyBuilder]

I figured I'd trust the guy with 20+ years experience...!

[@py_tok5589]

nice channel mate, where r you based in the UK?

[@OfficeBoyBuilder]

Cheers mate. I'm down in the south east - between Kent and Surrey

[@py_tok5589]

@@OfficeBoyBuilder I see, I m near Manchester

[@timgranthunnisett380]

Thermolite on the external skin 🥴

[@tomking3833]

He should not put the brick going from out in because the moisture could get in I know the render should stop it but it could end up with damp problems on the plaster

[@OfficeBoyBuilder]

Ordinarily you'd be right bud, except in this case, both of those walls are becoming internal walls, with no extental contact...so it's all good 👍

[@ColinDH12345]

13:30 Frogs down... ouch. I guess that's the way it was done then.

[@OfficeBoyBuilder]

Good point. 100 years ago there were lots of odd things going on - I was amazed they were solid walls, given the Victorians had figured out cavity walls a few years before...!

[@dannymurphy1779]

@@OfficeBoyBuilder I guess people didn't want to take what they perceived as a risk. There was a big financing problem in the inter-war years, most of the houses like yours were built by very small scale builders, often in a single road houses were built by a bunch of different people even if the design is identical. Cavities were adopted in the late 1920's.

[@OfficeBoyBuilder]

I knew about teams of builders working up a street, but I didn't know about the financial side/risk perception, very interesting! Thanks