Spanish 110 300Tdi timing belt fitting with interruptions!

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Britannica Restorations Ltd
9 Ch. Rawson
Sherbrooke
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J1M2A3
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[@doorstepheights]

Tuesday 23rd June 2020 that belt was made lad. 🤣🤣👍🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

[@denisscott3073]

Hi Mike 👋 another great video update 👍 with great tips again 👍 👍👍🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🚌🚌🚌

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@perfectpoodle3628]

One for the saved file Mike thanks

[@sheepdogman1]

Excellent explanation yet again Mike

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Thanks again!

[@barbellbell]

Thanks Mike Another good watch. But the more I we see it.it keeps us on our toes.thanks.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@Defender110SLO]

Owsome King Mike. Thia is what makes you a King Mike. Cheers 🥃

[@gazzafloss]

Mike, they supply that 8mm short stud in the kit because the original studs have been known to fatigue and snap off allowing the tensioner roller on that side to drop off and, "bang" goes your valves. It is recommended to replace the stud with the new kit each belt change.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

First time I have heard that !

[@gazzafloss]

@@BritannicaRestorations it's not happened to mine but I know of two others it had happened to, both after recent T-belt changes.

[@carltonr3417]

My guess is the stud is over tightened past it’s yield point so it’s stretched too far so it stops being elastic enough to keep tension on the idler. Then the idler is allowed to move the stud enough that it work hardens and breaks

[@gazzafloss]

@@carltonr3417 yes, I'd say that's what happens.

[@gazzafloss]

@@carltonr3417 just remembered, that stud also forms the security for the tensioner pivot point, so once it's overtightened and loses elasticity/snaps off it effects not only the fixed idler but also the tensioner. A new stud every belt change is a good policy, that's why they supply it in kit.

[@lotus7even]

I’ve used your way to do my belt plus got a dial gauge torque wrench was so much easier to fit big thank you Mike

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Glad I could help

[@jameskerr5756]

Good timing. 👍🍺

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Glad you think so!

[@rsage_]

Thanks for the video. I've rebuilt a few VM Motori 2.8's, but I just imported a Def 110 Pickup from Brazil. Excited to do the maintenance. your videos have been excellent.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Good luck!

[@patrickryan7385]

After you tighten all the belt up, reset the tappets, and THEN set the pump timing, then yourl have full power. Also the breather from rocker cover to the side of the block can be blanked off.

[@mocachito]

Hi Michael, there are 2 notches on the flywheel. Can you explein why, and how do I know which is the right one? Cheers from Germany. I like your " kaputt" Moritz

[@chrismiller9740]

Nice video Mike. With my 200tdi, when I rebuilt the injector pump, I experimented with slight modifications to pump timing and found 1.60mm lift worked very well. In addition, I increased both fueling slightly and boost pressure to 1.1 bar. Much better power with small amt black smoke under max boost. The point you made on belt tension is crucial, as well as keeping pump timing within a tight range. Thanks again for all of your informative videos. Cheers!

[@garypeatling7927]

Always turn injector pump a bit anticlockwise on high mileage motor to make up for bit of wear in pump

[@mattluszczak8095]

...back at mikes...timing belts and snow...🤣🤭

[@gavinralph2910]

You make it look easy Mike.....my LR gararge charges £450 to supply and fit a cam belt kit to my old 87 LR 90 with retro fit TDI 300

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Hell I could fly over and do it cheaper! lol!

[@garypeatling7927]

Do yourself

[@mickpospiech1363]

@@BritannicaRestorations that's what I've been trying to tell you!😁

[@craig_chaznibond452]

This was very helpful as mine is due soon. I guess you should change everything and not just the belt? I changed for the updated kit a few years ago. I wondered if the tensioner bearings last?

[@tommepham2267]

I had this timing discrepancy on my EGR 300tdi. I found that the timing pins gave me a fuel pump lift of about 1.23mm. I believe that the only difference between EGR and non-EGR pumps is the potentiometer on the throttle control, however you are correct in saying the timing specification is different for the two set ups. I advanced my pump to 1.6mm as you had previously suggested and the difference is amazing. I have also done this with a 200tdi as well, and I found that the timing pins were not that accurate at setting the injection timing. I set that to 1.6mm as well and the owner couldn’t believe how much better the thing went. I think to do the job properly you should time the fuel pump with a dial gauge every time you replace the belt.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Yes it is a bit of a crap shoot with the pins they are not a precision fit!

[@tommepham2267]

@@BritannicaRestorations The pins gets you near enough that it will start and run alright but you only get the best out of it by fine adjustment of the injection timing. Since waking up to this I have retimed a few other diesels with this type of bosch pump, it makes a huge difference it being accurate! Two Mitsubishi diesels in my family, both never had the pump timing adjusted from the factory, one was 0.33mm and the other was about 0.6mm, it should be 1.0mm!

[@k1ckyscotland988]

When you say "Like Frank Sinatra" would that be Mad Frank from Scunthorpe?. The crooner Frank Sinatra never mentioned working on Land Rovers in his biography. Great video,as always.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Could be..

[@seanmcintyre3986]

Hi Mike, great video. Have you done or could you do a video on setting up the cam pulley in relation to its hub, I can't find this anywhere on the internet, and it's a bit worrisome when it states in the workshop manual a warning not to disturb the three screws attaching the cam pulley to its hub. I know it doesn't use the slotted holes, but there is a little bit of play still in their normal holes and didn't think it would have much of an effect, I think it does as have just completed a timing belt job for a customer, where I had to dismantle that pulley (small damage) and now the thing is down on power, and everything else is bang on, I also use DTI to set up pump timing. Very strange.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Email me and I will send you the page with the timing specs. A bit technical, and you will need a timing wheel to go on the crank - like this www.amazon.ca/Motion-Pro-08-0092-Anodized-Degree/dp/B009D38L88/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2K76MGM6O2NBY&keywords=degree+wheel+timing&qid=1703122487&sprefix=timing+wheel%2Caps%2C93&sr=8-1 [e-mail]

[@neilwhite8131]

Great video, I take it you wll not see how much the pump was out of position for a 2mm lift if you used a drill bit.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

You are correct

[@nickwall4547]

Hi mike, could you give any tips to get tension on belt, if we don't have a dial reader. thanks great video.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Great suggestion!

[@alanhowatson3462]

I use the old fasiond torque wrench with the pendulum and gauge near the handle

[@carltonr3417]

This is a great video topic! Maybe show us by hand how a correctly tensioned belt should look like. Not very scientific but it would give you some idea how close you are

[@111111aras]

are you sure it's not a boy drawing the lines ?

[@RoverAddis]

Hey uncle Mike for those of us who can't get the timing pin can you tell us the thickness of the pin so we can get it made at a machine shop...and I have heard you saying a reverse switch can fit to lock the crank ?😃 🙂

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Yes an old reverse switch will fit in the flywheel - will get back to you with the pin dimensions

[@RoverAddis]

@@BritannicaRestorations thanks uncle Mike

[@55kemi]

9mm

[@RoverAddis]

@@55kemi thanks a lot man

[@germanuki]

Hi there,nice and very useful video, where can I found de pin you are using to block?? Thanks

[@BritannicaRestorations]

www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254263118507?hash=item3b33434aab:g:nwcAAMXQtRxSLKkn&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoInknCoK%2FZAuYL1fcEp7xan60NLnh%2FiXB5y5RodD81MHfTUqft1YuBSFza88wrHvdwqcBOYwoNqbfidoeIJBfIjfOybrabzpPUrxNPRW3fG%2BKM7C%2B9xBPExv7J2y4ZJU4u7EwVGHoibY3x9yVKx15z2gV15yOveLkl5Iz8YMrwOp4V7WMT0%2BwvwdYZQOYfAicOgfNkbSf2DQYMLQCKGkx8A%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-ai0fOwYQ

[@kabaottoemulsion1869]

Should I put any blue thread locker for any of those bolts??? Once again Pump timing thing..... Should I NOT replace timing belt myself but send to DEFENDER specialist????

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Not really needed to put thread lock on - you could have a go yourself!

[@walkaboutmotors]

Do you put the front cover on dry? Meaning no sealer on the gasket? I know it's meant to be dry inside the front cover and don't know of a good reason to use a sealant or gasket maker, but didn't know how you did it. Thanks!

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Dry

[@secpac58chichi]

i missed it or wasn't paying attention in the series of videos - did you change the oil pump ? if not why not ?

[@BritannicaRestorations]

This engine was built last year as a long block - there is a video series on it

[@rupertthomson]

Wasn't this the engine you rebuilt and had stored in the container? How come you've had to change the belt again?

[@BritannicaRestorations]

because it was a long block and no belt or accessories were fitted

[@rupertthomson]

@@BritannicaRestorations Cheers Mike

[@user-ed1tf4dk3m]

Майкл, я всё пальцы сломал. А надо было потом ролик ставить, как вы

[@AllSortsOfStuff58]

You check your bolts. I'll check my nuts...

[@stephenedwards1600]

Someone buy Mike a new broom.

[@vincentpoole7588]

Mike. You're officially an 'old fart' in the seventh decade of living on this earth ! Is it possible to change the timing belt arrangement to a timing chain setup ? Only item getting looser is our orifices. V

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Not very practical - Zeus Engineering once did a gear drive but it was not very popular

[@sheepdogman1]

Excellent explanation yet again Mike

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Glad you enjoyed it