Brought back to life .. PG24 Ultramarine Green handmade watercolor paint!

[@awatercolourist]

A whole bucket of ultramarine green! Lucky you!

[@JoseGonzalez-wq5jd]

I wonder if this could make a two pigment moon glow? Perhaps with crimson. Two pigment teal hue.

[@dirtyblueshop]

Very interesting idea! The less pigments in a mix the better! 🤙

[@polgara28]

What a gorgeous pigment! Such a lovely video. Can I just say that you have the coolest toys!!! I love the stamped (molded) paint idea... and the way you have the pigment number carved or whatever it's called into the side of the pans. You are a very detailed oriented human, and your joy of pigments is contagious! I truly hope that the shipment problems are resolved very soon!

[@dirtyblueshop]

Thank you so much! These words mean the world to me! 🙏

[@janeblundellart]

I love all the gadgets and gismos you use Laurens. Gorgeous colour too!

[@dirtyblueshop]

Thank you so much Jane! 😁🙏

[@ten01_labs]

Very nice! Always happy to see old pigments resurrect.

[@dirtyblueshop]

🙏🤙

[@michaelclark4876]

And nice reminder that for pigments, extinction is not forever. All it takes is someone willing to make some.

[@dirtyblueshop]

@michaelclark4876 😁🤙

[@stephanie.kilgast]

That was fascinating to watch! It's a gorgeous color!

[@dirtyblueshop]

Thank you so much ☺️

[@scherre]

Came via your post on reddit. It's a beautiful colour! Hanging right on the cusp between blue and green and all the loveliness of both. I love how you embossed the pigment name into the pans. Printed or written labels tend to wear off over time, especially with splashes of water and paint. This label will only become easier to read if paint gets in it. Genius! Do you think it made a difference to the drying and how the paint set by putting it in the vacuum chamber? It certainly did look like it pulled out a bunch of micro bubbles which are almost impossible to fully remove otherwise.

[@dirtyblueshop]

Thank you so much! The pans are something I’m quite proud of, of being able to make these and offer them for all my paints! 🤙

[@floralsbywendy]

Incredibly well made video thank you for sharing!! ❤

[@dirtyblueshop]

Thank you so much! It means the world to me!

[@geefull]

Thank you Laurens, lovely colour, definitely looks on the greener side on camera and interesting to hear about the mulling difference.

[@dirtyblueshop]

Thank you! It's quite green, but don't think phthalo.. Like I mentioned, somewhere between a dark version of PG26 & PB36 turquoise ?

[@s.maskell7134]

This colour is gorgeous. like the new mold.

[@dirtyblueshop]

Thank you so much!!

[@mnap1595]

All beautiful colors!

[@dirtyblueshop]

🙏

[@FatFilbert-lv4ki]

Nice color. And interesting what you are trying to with the mold.

[@dirtyblueshop]

Thanks!!

[@kosssko]

I have a jar of PG 24 from Kremer pigments bought 6-7 years ago and I don't know whether the light or something else but your PG24 looks way more blu than mine? I don't want to say something bad about it just that I myself made yesterday two pans of PG 24 and mine is a lot more greenish?! Wandering why is that!

[@dirtyblueshop]

That is very possible! Same as with many pigments (other ultramarines too) the pigment number only says something about the chemical composition. The actual hue can differ. Probably this or Kremer’s version had a bit more or less of a component that made it the “green” it is! 🤙

[@kosssko]

That was exactly what I thought. I know that the pigment is a chemical formula and this make it a question of production where the shades variate comes.

[@dirtyblueshop]

@kosssko maybe we’ll find out during my live stream? There are people (usually) who could tell us!

[@michaelclark4876]

@@kosssko Looks like KZbin ate my longwinded description so I'll give the quickie version. The green/blue shading is determined by the form of the sulfur at the site responsible for giving ultramarine its color. There is a 2 sulfur form and a 3 sulfur form. It's almost always a mix of the two. Where the 3 sulfur form is overwhelming, you get ultramarine blue Where there is enough 2 sulfur form, you get more green. The more 2 sulfur compared to 3 sulfur, the more green it is. The ratio of the two forms can vary depending on a bunch of seemingly small issues in the exact conditions during production. Kremer's just has more 2 sulfur relative to this batch of PG24.

[@dirtyblueshop]

Thank you! Do you know how yours compares to the ones in the UM box from Kremer?

[@AlexYorim]

A gorgeous teal.

[@KRCanetti]

Prachtige kleur ja. Ik heb een nap van Kremers' PG24 die ik erg mooi vind. Maar zoals in onderstaande comments, andere nuance... Leuk experiment met die vorm. Ik wou dat ik 100x kon subscriben. Jammer dat ik lang geleden al een keertje geabonneerd ben. Maar ik blijf toch graag kijken naar je videos. Voor de lives helaas geen tijd.

[@dirtyblueshop]

Dankjewel🙏🙏 ik ken die van Kremer ja, heel anders en hun pigmenten collectie heeft nog meer variaties!

[@TheFiXNormal]

Great video, mate. I know nothing of paint(s) and pigments, but I enjoyed watching anyways!

[@dirtyblueshop]

Thanks and good to hear! I really appreciate it!

[@michaelclark4876]

You can eliminate the bubbles by borrowing another technology from molding/casting besides vacuum degassing: pressure casting. The material being cast is placed under pressure while it hardens. This crushes the bubbles, and may help force air in bubbles into solution. Pressure casting works very well when used with liquids that were vacuum degassed, which pops bubbles and desaturates the amount of air in solution within the liquid. That is how crystal clear acrylic castings are made. You just need a pressure pot. You can convert a paint pressure tank into one very easily, and if you are lucky you may find a used one for sale cheap. EDIT: And you'll also need desiccant. Resins solidify because they are polymerizing from liquid mono- or oligomers into solid polymers. Watercolor media solidifies because it looses water by evaporation. In a small confined area under pressure, there will be limited evaporation unless something is removing water that evaporates from the paint. A reversible desiccant should do the trick and can be reused after regenerating it. Though you may have to adjust amounts of desiccant and time to prevent cracking of the drying molded paint.

[@dirtyblueshop]

Thank you so much for the insight! I’ve been looking for a pressure pot… but I don’t have the space for it anymore 😂

[@NessaWolfeMuller]

Oooh will have to order this too!

[@dirtyblueshop]

🙏☺️

[@PaintinHiding]

ooooooooohh 😍

[@dirtyblueshop]

😁🤗 will you join the live in an hour? I know it’s late 🫣

[@PaintinHiding]

@@dirtyblueshop yes~! hopefully i dont fall asleep first… it’s gonna be 3am soon 🤣

[@dirtyblueshop]

@@PaintinHiding 😳okay please don’t feel pressured.. take your rest!

[@nicoletheknightowl7560]

i think if you put a small cup of the paint in the vacuum chamber first then poured it in the mold it would have less bubbles also vibrating the mold as you fill it can also help too. i like the idea of a doing the second 'fill' as a dried stamp. maybe a smaller particle paint might work better? Lots of room for experimentation! (Also what a gorgeous pigment)

[@dirtyblueshop]

Thanks! Maybe a tad more fluid and longer in the vacuum chamber might do the trick. Vacuum creates heat, making the top layer dry already.. keeping the air in 🫣

[@michaelclark4876]

Vacuum degassing a liquid also reduces the amount of gas dissolved in the liquid. When the vacuum is released, this results in the liquid soaking up air from the environment. Small bubbles remaining may be dissolved into the liquid. This seems to work best for reducing air bubbles when followed by pressure casting. There is a lot known about how to reduce bubbles in resin casting that is directly applicable here. It's a good place to narrow down possible approaches. I suspect a combination of vacuum degassing the paint and pressure casting during hardening will solve the problem.

[@michaelclark4876]

@@dirtyblueshop Vacuum doesn't create heat. Vacuums will insulate, as heat can only be transferred by radiation, letting hot things stay hot longer. But placing liquids into a vacuum will tend to increase the evaporation of that liquid, cooling it. Lowering pressure reduces the boiling points of liquids. Warm water will boil in a vacuum chamber (try it!). And lowering pressure of a gas, while keeping volume constant decreases temperature (Amonton's law or Gay-Lussac's law depending on who you want to give credit to). The top layer got dry because the water that was there evaporated not because of heating. Heating the paint will dry it, but it is because hot air holds more water so heating reduces relative humidity. This distinction is important if you decide to try pressure casting. You will need to have a desiccant in the pressure vessel to absorb water so that the paint dries. You could heat too, but the vacuum will make it harder to heat objects inside that way.

[@dirtyblueshop]

@michaelclark4876 thanks again! I really appreciate it! It’s like a tiny side quest of my actual work, but extra knowledge is always welcome!

[@awatercolourist]

I love the silicone mould! I had the same idea if I ever make paints. Is it easy to remove the paints from the silicone mould?

[@dirtyblueshop]

I pop one out at the end of the process. It is, but bubbles are still an issue...

[@awatercolourist]

@@dirtyblueshop Well, if you really need them, you can always find someone to do it for you "professionally". Or you could have fun tweaking your design 🙂.

[@dirtyblueshop]

@awatercolourist I don’t need them 😅 but one worked beautifully with PB33.. so I might need to change the process per pigment

[@NessaWolfeMuller]

The mold is a cool idea. Will you try to perfect it? Did you ever see that some use silicone ice cube trays, put the wet paint into dry and then pop them out? They don’t give details, is it reallly a thing? So much “slight of hand” fakery going around,

[@dirtyblueshop]

Oh I have no idea anymore what’s real or not from what I just see online 😅 I know what pigments are and aren’t though, that’s good enough for me 😂

[@ClaireChi]

Soooo... I think I need a pan pronto.

[@dirtyblueshop]

There’s one with your name on it… maybe literally 😉😅

[@awatercolourist]

I think Kremer’s PG24 was a bit greener.

[@dirtyblueshop]

but mine is... mine :D

[@edzejandehaan9265]

Agreed, I would not call this pigment green.

[@dirtyblueshop]

True, but it’s also not a green version of PB29, not like we know as Ultramarine Blue (green shade). Definitely a different green/blue

[@edzejandehaan9265]

@dirtyblueshop And I agree again, definitely a very different shade than pb29. Do you know something about its lightfastnes, is it as good as pb29?

[@awatercolourist]

First!

[@TracyIndy]

Thanks for another very informative video, and this color is gorgeous. Please put me down for a full pan. I admire your creativity with making the molds and utilizing a vacuum pump. Perhaps sitting your pans on the washing mashine during a spin cycle would agitate some bubbles out. 🫧 🤣 I'll look forward to your pan arriving with your one of a kind thumbprint. 😂

[@dirtyblueshop]

Thanks Tracy 😁 I’m going to work on the mold thing, but in the meantime, a full pan has been printed 😉

[@PinkWytchBytch]

Talk about “mulling” things over, that seemed like it really fought you on the mulling process

[@dirtyblueshop]

fighting is a strong word haha.. I'ver had worse!