DIY : 2015-2019 Subaru Outback FRONT Brake Pad Replacement

[@jklpino]

How’s it going. Good video. I’m a subscriber and follower on Instagram as well. Just one suggestion for a professional mechanic here. Just use the old brake pad with your channel locks so you don’t damage the brake caliper piston. Good content. Keep it coming.

[@bruceyyyyy]

That's a great call! I am just a guy that's used to doing things himself. No professional training. I used the brake caliper tool on the other side but the channel locks seemed easier. I've also used a C Clamp before. The channel locks just seemed easiest but I hadn't considered the teeth digging into the piston. Overall this was a super easy pad slap job. Other than the inner/outer/left/right specific it was like any other I've done before.

[@jklpino]

bruceyyyyy Ya. It was good over all. Any way you can compress the piston is fine. Just use the old pad so you don’t damage anything.

[@tormodskoog9088]

Question - I was always taught to remove the cap for the master cylinder when pushing back the pistons. It that part not necessary? Thanks.

[@bruceyyyyy]

@@tormodskoog9088 It just makes it easier to push in. If you have the strength or tool to do it it isn't necessary. I guess I could bleed the brakes now too but I was thinking of investing in speed bleeders for the calipers.

[@jklpino]

Tormod Skoog Burceyyyy is correct. It’s not necessary. But a lot of times the cap will pop off when you push the piston back in. There is a chance you could break the cap if you leave it on, it also does create some additional resistance. I take it off when I remember. Most of the time I don’t just cause I forget. It’s not a big deal either way.

[@351cleavland]

Very helpful video! 2 small points for anyone doing this job for the 1st time: 1) Use SILCONE grease. Regular grease can break down rubber such as the caliper pin boots over time. Silcone grease will not. 2) Make sure not to contaminate your pads or rotors with the silcone grease. Use some brake clean in a can and give the pads and rotors a wash with the cleaner. Could make stopping more difficult as brakes need friction to stop. Nice video! : D

[@ironhorsevinnie]

Very simple video if one ever has done a few brakes to a 1964 ford ! I was going to pay big time. You just save me many bucks buddy . Thank you ~ Blessings

[@CosmoWeems]

Thanks so much. I just completed the rear bakes on a 2018 Outback today. Shop would charge $375 to change rear pads. Also swap rotors which dont need to be changed. OI paid $70 for the OEM pads and saved $305 on just the rear!

[@Willohbee]

Why was I told I need a scan tool to do the rear brakes on a 2017?

[@ChristopherVarnish]

@@WillohbeeJust did the rear brakes on a 2016 Subaru Outback 2.5. All I did was unplug the electronic parking brake connector which is right under the caliper. Then to get the caliper pistons back in you can buy the special tool from Advanced Auto for like $13 or do what I did. Take a pair of vise grips and twist in the caliper making sure to not touch the rubber boot. While you are turning have someone press down on the piston at the same time. I used a 6 inch extension. You do not have to press extremely hard but you do need to apply a decent amount of pressure. When done just plug back in the cable and then pull the parking brake switch. It will run for a few secs until it realizes what’s going on and extends back out. This method to my knowledge did no damage and didn’t take a lot of time. You just have to watch what you’re doing so you don’t mess anything up like the rubber boots or the electrical connector.

[@Willohbee]

@@ChristopherVarnish I really appreciate that!

[@counciousstream]

The rear brakes wear faster because they have a screw-type of piston that rotates and tightens every time you use the parking brake. This keeps the pads closer to the caliper. The more you use the parking brake the faster your pads will wear. Great video by the way. It does in fact take less than 10 mins to change the front pads. Like most folks (that I know) I use a large C-clamp to push the pistons back. Now that I see you using big VISE GRIPS I'll dig mine out and see how they work!

[@darrenm5797]

Thanks. haven't done brakes in a while so this was helpful to assure me nothing major has changed in how it's done.

[@Edwarbr]

Your comment at the end about the wear on the front breaks. My 2017 Outback is getting it’s first front break pad change at 78K. I have never owned a car with front break wear like this Outback. I bought new pads 2 years ago, when I changed my Lexus’ pads. I am finally putting them on today.

[@geofflouis7288]

Really appreciate this video. Never worked on brakes before, but now I feel reasonably confident. Also, enjoyed your furry helper in the video.

[@craigcote706]

You’ll be fine.

[@gofast160]

Getting ready to do the front brakes and my 2017 Outback 112k miles(mostly highway). Never been replaced, pads are thin and I should have heard the wear indicators by now. We'll see what's up with that. SUPER helpful video!!

[@counciousstream]

I just finished replacing the front pads on a 2016 outback. Your video was helpful. Rather than use the "vise grips", I left the rotor on and put two lug nuts on to hold it in place. Then I loosened the guide bolts and compressed the caliper using a c-clamp while the caliper was still attached to the car and it had the old brake pads in it. The rotor wasn't distorted and the entire replacement excluding mounting the tires was not even 10 minutes per wheel.

[@Existinginthespace]

Thanks for the video, it was really informative. I had to replace the rotors as well. The subaru jackstand really came to the rescue in helping me remove the 17mm bolts and removing a stuck rotor, i just had to get creative with the angles and using the cars body.

[@richtalach8204]

I like your style, no nonsense. First time I did brakes on my 2015 Outback, you were a great help, thnaks.

[@bruceyyyyy]

I have plenty of non sense! Just not on this video.

[@caitlinkingmusic]

Love the cat cameo!! The cat honestly made me want to push through and learn to do this myself. Thank you!

[@professordumbledoobie]

Pretty much exactly what I expected, but always good to check. Thanks so much for taking the time to put this video together, bud

[@paulauksztulewicz4803]

I have 148k on my 2015 and just now replacing front and rear. Cool. Thanks for the vid!

[@bruceyyyyy]

Note: I believe there is actually an error on this video. Check the forum post for more clarification.

[@uga1988]

I have a 2016 with 110K - and just about time to start looking at replacing them on front now. I'm on my third set of rear shoes.

[@tormodskoog9088]

Thanks for sharing! Nice to know these brakes are still very simple to do. Did many brakes jobs on my old 1998. I just recently bought a 2017 and am loving it.

[@someguyinohio7297]

Really nice video mate. Appreciate the effort to show how it is done. Thank you!

[@KentuckyRanger]

I was going to change mine, but they don't need it, LOL! Thanks to your video, I know it won't be a huge chore.

[@AndrewGKelly_Illinois]

Mine went exactly as this video describes. Less than three hours for the entire job. I did pads not rotors. I was at 77,777 miles (haha) when the dealer suggested I needed new pads. Lots of heavy city traffic driving. '16 Outback

[@porsche558]

I changed my rear ones out on my 15 Outback 3.6r with some cross drilled and slotted rotors. I also threw on a strut tie bar and the 20mm rear sway bar from the STi (it’s a direct fit for the 15-17 Outback). I know the sway bar and strut tie bar make off-road handling potentially worse but I spend 99.99999999% of my time on the road so it makes sense for the to concentrate on the “on-road’ handling. The strut tie bar made a noticeable difference in turn in. The STi rear sway bar makes a big difference on the handling in sharp corners at speed and oddly enough it helped over speed bumps (no more rocking back and forth after clearing them).

[@harpoon_bakery162]

If i installed one pad on each side with the clip up, should i correct them? i already bedded the brakes and I'm afraid i would have to rebed them and cause some overheating and warping having to do the procedure twice (which I would assume is against every shop manual in existence.)

[@cember01]

130K on our 2015 and still original front pads. And there's still some life left in them. But I'm going to go ahead and replace them.

[@80srockerable]

Thanks for overview. I'm same situation. Did the rear pads. Bought front too. Now at 99k miles. I brought oem pads and came with l new clips, etc. For the rear Lisle makes a brake piston tool #28600. Which makes it easy to scew in parking brake piston. At first I was trying to push it. Brakes are like 1st side goes slow. 2nd side is fast.

[@BradMangas]

Thanks for the quick informative video. Will help a bunch since I will need to be doing the same thing to my 2015 Outback. Just a little nitpicky note. Those pliers you sometimes call vise grips but said they are Channel Locks. They aren't Channel Locks either. Channel Lock is a brand and it looked those you had weren't even Channel Lock brand. (Channel Lock brands are blue handled). Those are "technically" Adjustable Pliers. Many tool manufactures make "adjustable pliers" not just Channel Lock. I know, who cares. Thanks again.

[@bruceyyyyy]

I use vise grip and channel lock interchangeably. I knew vise grip (sometimes spelled vice grip online) is a brand but didn't realize channel locks were as well.

[@jklpino]

Brad Mangas Dang! I’m a professional mechanic and I just got schooled as well. Thanks for dropping some knowledge! I’ve always used channel locks and adjustable pliers somewhat interchangeable. And in fact, I would probably have corrected people in the past for not referring to them as one or the other. I generally refer to that style of adjustable pliers as channel locks. Because now a days they have regular pliers that are also adjustable. The manor in which those type of pliers are adjustable I would generally call channel locks. But looks like I am technically incorrect in calling them that. Good to no, gonna use that bit of knowledge to bash on my coworkers in the future! Lol. Thanks! Learn something new everyday!

[@garypaik7171]

Those players who used are called tongue and groove pliers what's your type of slip joint pliers. Good video.

[@jakededrick7068]

I usually use a c clamp but the vise grips are a good idea

[@eganfo]

I love the cat making an appearance. Very helpful video. Thanks for making it.

[@IanDwyer-n3s]

Thank you so much for this video! really cleared up the orientation and placement questions I had since the new pads really did not clearly express that they are made specifically for left/right inside/outside. After completing this job, my brakes function seemingly normally, however my brake warning light intermittently comes on, usually after releasing the brake pedal when I am on the gas again to move forward from a stop. The light stays illuminated for a few moments and then switches off. but comes back on nearly every time I use and release the brakes. Any ideas what may be causing this? Regardless thanks for the helpful video!

[@LesSummer]

your better than me. I've been doing my brakes wrong my whole life. silly me taking off the whole caliper.

[@bruceyyyyy]

My laziness knows no bounds.

[@LesSummer]

bruceyyyyy 😂

[@bruceyyyyy]

@@LesSummer It only works for pad slaps like this obviously.

[@wayne0822]

The EBD system maximizes the effectiveness of the brakes by allowing the rear brakes to supply a greater proportion of the braking force. It functions by adjusting the distribution of braking force to the rear wheels in accordance with the vehicle’s loading condition and speed. The EBD system is an integral part of the ABS system and uses some of the ABS system’s components to perform its function of optimizing the distribution of braking force. If any of the ABS components used by the EBD function fails, the EBD system also stops working. When the EBD system is operating, you may hear a chattering noise or feel a slight vibration in the brake pedal. This is normal and does not indicate a malfunction

[@Shimpter]

Great and helpful video. Also love your cat, she’s very pretty!!

[@garypaik7171]

Video was okay, just noticed that it appeared that you left grease smudges on the rotor and pad.

[@gabrielezilliFPV]

First of all thank you for your video with came really handy. Just one thing I've noticed: when you installed the new pads, the little spring on the bottom went inside the caliper, but as I can see from other sources it should stay outside. If you look at your video, even on your old pads it's laying outside on the anti-rattle clips. Just my 2 cents. Cheers from Italy 👍

[@bruceyyyyy]

You are correct! I added a notice in the comment section but thank you for pointing out.

[@gabrielezilliFPV]

@@bruceyyyyy Oooooops... Didn't read carefully comment section AKA didn't read it at all🤪.

[@120poppy]

You really needed to remove as much rust on any and all surfaces ,especially on and under the clips and clean all surfaces with brake clean. The slide pins needed to be removed and cleaned of old grease and inspected for rust, then apply new silicone grease to the pins, check all rubber boots for tears.

[@KentuckyRanger]

I'm getting ready to do this to my 2015 Outback. I've seen on a video, that the bleeder valve needs to be open, during the compression of the calipers. I notice you didn't. I suppose you really don't have to do that? Especially, in my opinion, opening the bleeder valve like that, could cause air to get into the system. I think they said that they do that, because of the ABS system? I've never personally ever did it that way, but it's been a very long time since I've done this... LOL!

[@GeraldBegin]

Thanks a lot Bruce :-) I just got my new Outback 2020, I hope It will looks like the same when I will change the pad. What is the best thing to do as a preventive corrosion on brake system. Is it to check twice a year to see if everything is fine and put more grease where it is missing. ?

[@bruceyyyyy]

I would just grease when you change the pads.

[@craigcote706]

Enjoyed and appreciate your video. Well done!

[@8NabootheEnigma8]

Mans gave me the best brake pad tutorial while sounding like Daniel Wormald from breaking bad

[@bruceyyyyy]

Aw geez thanks fella.

[@8NabootheEnigma8]

@@bruceyyyyy Fr though. thanks for the vid

[@andrewosler9655]

This video saved by bacon today man! Thank you so much, I appreciate you!

[@Shouk02]

just a note for people who deal with a lot of rust due to road salt. autozone duralast gold rotors are great and dont rust out like some other brands. also on my vehicles they have mostly highway miles so brakes last forever we replace the rotors on pad change just so the small imperfections in the rotor dont screw up new pads, its relatively small up in the price but then i dont have to worry about pads wearing funny.

[@JoelKasprzak-gw1tr]

I have used Duralast pads for all of my brake pad replacements and never had any problems. They are relatively inexpensive, and many people don't know that they have a free replacement policy that is incredible. You can bring back your old pads once they are removed, and get a new free set of Duralast pads. I used to get these at Schuck's auto supply, but auto parts stores seem to change names/ownership quite often. I just bought OEM Akebono pads for my 2016 Subaru Outback because they are the OEM for Subaru brakes, and I got them both on sale at a good price, and because Schuck's is no longer in the area. After I bought them I happened to see that AutoZone carries them, so I called and checked if the free replacements with the old pads was still available and was told that it is. I had told my son about the pads years ago when we did his brakes, and he told me that he got free replacements a couple of weeks ago, and has been doing that for years, saving $$$

[@johnpooley3]

Good video, I used RockAuto and was very happy with the parts and price. The channel locks are the part that the Service Manual doesn't explain well lol, but you did!

[@blusky109]

Spam !

[@3igger1]

Hi! Quick question? Is it ok not to bleed brake when pushing caliper pistons? I watched 1A auto loosened up the bleeder to compress pistons and bleed the fluid. Thank you.

[@nathancalia3901]

I guess you could potentially screw something up, but I think if you’re new to DIY automotive you’re more likely to screw something up introducing air to your hydraulic brakes.

[@3igger1]

@@nathancalia3901 Thank you. I found a cheap service tool to retract automatically the rear brakes too. Foxwell brand works!

[@danpaling1703]

My fronts lasted until 86k. Thanks for the video, I dont feel like paying someone for such a not very complicated install.

[@SteveSnowman]

I believe the rear pads are smaller. Than the front. That’s why the rear ones wear more.

[@dougdean3134]

Great video made the job a piece of cake! Thanks

[@kcirmusic1]

I tried to find the brake pads you recommend but Amazon says they are unavailable. The Power Stop website recommends "Power Stop 17-1078, Z17 Front Ceramic Brake Pads with Hardware". Thanks for another good video!

[@bruceyyyyy]

It might be a supply issue with this virus. I just bought them last week.

[@kcirmusic1]

@@bruceyyyyy Found and ordered the pads you installed from the Auto Accessories Garage website.

[@bruceyyyyy]

@@kcirmusic1 Thanks! I'll update the link so it can help someone else in the future.

[@jklpino]

I hate to knit pick on things. But from an informative stand point. I just want to say, ceramic and metallic brake pads are terrible for your rotors. They are super hard and they wear out your brake rotors instead of your much cheaper brake pads. I always recommend replacing brakes pads with the OEM replacement pads, of what ever brand you choose, just so long as they are OEM compliant. Unless you are going for higher performance and don’t mind sacrificing your rotors. But that would be another conversation with different parts and variables to consider.

[@bruceyyyyy]

Would you have a suggested product? I don't drive hard. I just want long life and low dust.

[@AudioAdvisory38]

Always helps; burp your boots, check for fluid draining past the piston seal.

[@electricmichael]

Same thing with me. I’ve got a 2017 crosstrek and back went 1st and I’m changing the fronts at 99k. Weird I thought

[@marcuslee3256]

I have made a same mistake and you see the pin sticking out in the bottom, that should stay out and press on to the hardware. It's called the return spring. Check it out yo

[@jamestimmins2018]

I agree

[@Grich240]

Thank you for the excellent video

[@b.e.harder5936]

Wow, that saved me a bunch of time and $$$! Thank you!!!

[@gagew6563]

I just buy harbor freight screw drivers and use them like pry bars. They have a lifetime warrenty so whenever I snap them I just take them back and they give a free new set.

[@bruceyyyyy]

I have a kobalt pry bar set. I just tend not to use it for videos. Good call though.

[@johnpflug1567]

Using channel locks in this manner could press the pistons in crooked. Damage alert! Use the correct tool. Harbor Freight has inexpensive ones available!

[@darrenm5797]

In the past when I used channel locks or clamp to do this I have left the old pad in place to distribute the load squarely, seems to work well enough to avoid the issue.

[@softroadingthewest]

"I call them vice grips..." LOL Loved the cameo appearance by the kitty. This video made the brake job look easy enough for even me to tackle. My independent mechanic I go to for jobs that are beyond my DIY abilities (so, everything) told me they always replace the rotors by default when replacing brake pads...they won't do pads only. As it turned out, I still had plenty of pad left, so I haven't had the brakes done yet. If I replace the pads only while there's still pad left, and there hasn't been any metal-on-metal contact, is there a compelling reason to replace the rotors? Maybe about 9 months or a year ago, it seemed like EVERYONE on Instagram was replacing their rotors with some kind of fancy aftermarket thing with curvy edges or cutouts or I don't know what. Is there a compelling reason for someone who drives like a...well, like a responsible safety-conscious 50-yr-old...to upgrade the rotors? What benefits are those people getting from those fancy rotors?

[@bruceyyyyy]

Re: Rotor + Pad makes sense from a shop perspective. It eliminates variables of brake issues and well, they're not paying for it. Right? From a DIY I've done plenty of pad slaps and been fine. I typically can't do it more than once. Once I did 3 sets of pads on one rotor but the rotor had to be out of minimum thickness by the end of that third set of pads. Not recommended. If the rotor is still thick enough and isn't damaged I see no reason to do it. If you DO want to replace the rotors and feel confident on changing the pads after watching this check out the Jeep Renegade Brake Change video I did (that no one watched). I changed the rotors in it and it's basically one extra step. The only special thing I noticed there was the brake caliper bracket bolts were thread locked with red. There was a mechanic in the comment section earlier. Might want to ask him for more feedback. Re: Fancy Rotors For a street/daily driven car? Looks. Instagram. I still need to get used to posting things although I can't figure out what to post. I'm a boomer like that. Slotted/drilled rotors have advantages in track cars. In a daily driven car those advantages are going to be immeasurable. The only advantage I can possibly think of worth mentioning for someone like us is I've heard (and haven't even seen good research or studies backing up the claim) is it's advantageous for clearing mud and debris out but even than that's a pretty minuscule compared to the shorter life of the rotor and pad.

[@softroadingthewest]

@@bruceyyyyy Thank you sir, this is quite a helpful reply. Bit by bit I'm wrapping my head around all these systems that were just mysterious and magical to me before.

[@jklpino]

Hello, professional mechanic here. Also a subscriber to your channel. Just a comment on the “upgraded rotors”. Generally speaking, most people don’t need upgraded rotors. But if your so inclined, the advantage for the average person would be added heat dissipation, which in simple terms means, when you brake hard or for a long period of time, such as going down hill or towing, your brakes will be able to maintain a higher degree of braking force for a longer period of time, preventing brake fad and premature brake failure. And to be clear, “upgraded rotors” do not actually increase your braking power, only maintain a higher level of what you can already achieve just for a longer period of time.

[@softroadingthewest]

@@jklpino Excellent, thank you, that is very enlightening!

[@bergmanst]

Do you need to pump up the brakes and e brake after doing the pad change out? I need to change the rotos and pad on my 2015 Outback. I plan to do it on Friday this week.

[@bruceyyyyy]

Pumping is never a bad idea after a brake change.

[@jameshughes8604]

Very helpful! Thanks!

[@bandit446484]

Nice job!! Thanks for the info!!

[@masters40]

You didn't install the pads correctly. That little spring tab on the bottom should be on the outside. You stuffed it in the slot. That little spring tab aids in pulling the pad away from the rotor.

[@streetbikebilly2597]

Might want to remove the slide pins instead of greasing near the head of the bolt idk maybe clean up all the old dirt and stuff with a rag and lube her up good

[@doityourdarnedself]

I helped my daughter (yes, she does her own brakes) with this yesterday and I'm a f*cking idiot. Had I spent 7:43 watching this yesterday before getting started, I would have saved myself at least an hour. The pads on hers (not sure of the year) have these little prongs and it was like doing a 3D puzzle. I was thinking, "There's no way this should be this hard." If I had just pulled the caliper pin and rotated the 2 halves, it would have been 100x easier. Oh well. I'll remember this for next time.

[@donboo4906]

112K Front Pads on my 15 Legacy. Rear brakes went about 20K ago.

[@bruceyyyyy]

That's terrific pad life!

[@mattyee9369]

Don’t forget to remove the cap on the brake fluid reservoir before compressing the caliper.

[@TIEFIGHTERCONSULTING]

**Open the bleeder valve

[@kevlarlive]

Thank you fo rsharing.

[@errm1913]

careful with those channel lock jaws on those piston seals!!! Proper pad break-in is critical with ceramic pads - don't want to fuse/melt the pad surface to the rotors....

[@kylebartkiewicz7274]

When I pushed the pistons back on the left break it made break fluid come out of my reservoir, is that bad?😬😬

[@coltonjohnson7853]

No

[@patrikbengtsson3320]

Awesome! Thank you!

[@randyuriarte787]

King thank you

[@itsbobmd]

You installed the pads wrong, watching your video I did too.. now I need to tear down the passenger side and do it again. The lever spring on the bottom of the pad goes on the outside, not clip onto the inside.

[@itsbobmd]

Look when you remove the old pads and see where that lever spring is sitting.

[@itsbobmd]

Also good idea when you push the calipers in to release the brake bleeder valve and push the oldest nastiest fluid out of the system and not back into the system.

[@charlescasto4226]

Confirmed 3 times I have the right pad in the right place but the driver side inboard just will not go in at the top.

[@harpoon_bakery162]

If i installed one of the four pads with the clip up, do I need to take the Wheel back off and flip the pad? By the way, all four of my pads were identical in that two of them didn't have that special thing you said needed to go on the inside only.

[@bruceyyyyy]

If it's working I wouldn't worry too much about it. Apparently the design varies a little on aftermarket parts.

[@harpoon_bakery162]

@@bruceyyyyy yea, i actually installed two pads with the spring on top (one on each side). I've already bedded the brakes. IF I were to correct them, will they have to be rebedded?

[@harpoon_bakery162]

@@bruceyyyyy i have replaced the front brakes again, powerstop brake pads did not fit

[@imlboogie]

Installed pads wrong and didn’t even resurface the rotor. Don’t praise this video for being helpful people

[@thecriminal0105]

I’m about to do my moms 2018 brakes and she said they haven’t been changed ever and her car is at 85k miles I didn’t believe it but until I saw this

[@briankennedy5578]

That is quite odd. Typically it goes two front to one rear. Sounds like maybe your proportioning valve is malfunctioning. The front brakes should do most of the work. Be careful with your channel locks. They can damage the caliper piston. Especially if you have hyperbolic fiber pistons. Can break big chunks out. I usually use a big flat screwdriver before taking caliper off. Stick in thru hole in caliper into vent holes in rotor and pry. Sometimes have to go between rotor and pad. Taking care not to gouge rotor. This helps loosen up slide bolts if needed. As they tend to stick. And subaru and i think every manufacturer quit using the screw type parking brake years ago. They suck. Had many issues. Now they are seperate. There are a set of small shoes that go behind the rotor. They use the inside of the hub portion of rotor as the brake drum.

[@wayne0822]

The EBD system maximizes the effectiveness of the brakes by allowing the rear brakes to supply a greater proportion of the braking force. It functions by adjusting the distribution of braking force to the rear wheels in accordance with the vehicle’s loading condition and speed. The EBD system is an integral part of the ABS system and uses some of the ABS system’s components to perform its function of optimizing the distribution of braking force. If any of the ABS components used by the EBD function fails, the EBD system also stops working. When the EBD system is operating, you may hear a chattering noise or feel a slight vibration in the brake pedal. This is normal and does not indicate a malfunction

[@briankennedy5578]

​@@wayne0822The chattering is normal operation for any ABS system. If a wheel begins to lock , the brake on that wheel is pulsed on that wheel to prevent skidding. With any type of brakes it would be a rare occurrence to have more braking force to the rear wheels. Due to weight transfer the rear wheels lock up much easier. And all the electronic braking , stability control, etc are basically for people who don't know how to drive. A knowledgeable driver can out perform them .

[@ckbpleas1971]

My cat likes working on my car with me as well

[@beer3014889]

ok ty ty....wish me luck

[@bruceyyyyy]

Good luck!

[@edmc1000]

He got grease on the inside brake pad.

[@brianbrown1955]

I’m at 135,000 on my 2015 legacy and the brake pads are showing some age and wear. It all depends on how you drive.

[@isamora4685]

👍👍👍

[@rgh5124]

Two things made me uneasy from watching this: 1) Your contamination of the pads by getting grease on them 2) The way you squeezed the pistons into the caliper - it is easy to cause damage by doing it this way - never put a tool directly onto the piston and only applying pressure to one side can drive it in crooked and cause damage. Use a piece of wood or even an old brake pad and squeeze that and push both pistons back in evenly and at the same time.

[@bruceyyyyy]

Do you not grease your pads?

[@cameronrobinson3507]

140k on my factory fronts

[@bruceyyyyy]

That's impressive!