Adventures in Electric Parking Brakes! Rear Brakes 2015-2019 Subaru Outback.

[@blueoct5591]

Great information on retracting the E parking brake. I watched tons of videos and this was the first one came across that showed being able to turn it back in and then push the piston back in the caliper. People kept showing using jumper wires to energize it. I already had the kit you recommended. It made this job super easy. Appreciate the video!

[@shockgolf]

Really appreciate the info on compressing the piston. One tip I have is if you are sure the rotors will not be removed, it is easier to not remove the first two 14 mm bolts. Only remove the lower guide bolt with the 7mm hex. The piston unit will rotate up and it is easy to place the pads on each side of the rotor.

[@bruceyyyyy]

Good tip!

[@honkycat121]

One tip on that tip, make sure you the. Disconnect the electric cable to the parking break. Wondered why the pads weren’t coming off the rotor. Now I have to find some replacement little electrical connectors that will fit the power break electrical housing. 🤦🏻‍♂️ 🤷🏻‍♂️

[@hansandersen6153]

Thanks saved me a lot of time!! Did both sides in an hour. I did removed both 7 mm bolts though. When I removed only lower one I could not rotate it enough to get pads out as the brake line did not have enough play. But definitely a pro tip, much faster than touching those 14 mm bolts, thanks again

[@kmenzel5020]

Thank you! This was simple and clear and helped me get the job done. I got the tool kit for free from my local chain parts store, by the way. Other videos out there are over-complicated and sometimes just plain confusing (or wrong), but not this one. Well done and thank you!!!!

[@johnroy98]

Great video! Exactly what I hoped to find. Although when I snapped my fingers in Massachusetts I ended up in .......Massachusetts. Very disappointed. Everything else is spot on!!!

[@BroncoPH]

Just wanted to say thank you for this video. It saved me $400 based on what the mechanic quoted me. TIp for others trying: I called my local Advanced Auto Parts and they "rented" me that set of brake tools for free.

[@bruceyyyyy]

Great tip! I hadn't considered renting that tool.

[@richardblumer4349]

Ok. So I really did my research. No you do not need a computer to do this procedure ! It is so simple. Just follow this video. You might want to disconnect your battery to be sure no power can accidentally be applied to the parking brake . You might want to remove the brake line holder in the middle of the line to give you more flexibility. I notice Subaru does not use stainless steel sliders for the brake pads. So proper maintenance cleaning and lubricating the cast iron sliders is probably a good idea. Thank you Bruce for giving me the confidence to do this job right !

[@bruceyyyyy]

Any hiccups along the way?

[@richardblumer4349]

None to speak of. All good !

[@MarkMLatham]

A couple of the steps from the Subaru service manual, it says to "release the parking brake", "disconnect the ground terminal from the battery sensor". Before the calipers are removed, "disconnect the connector", referring to the electrical connector. Some in the Outback Forum have had problems with error messages after the job. I'm assuming this may be due to not following the instructions carefully. One did not disconnect the connector and broke the wires. Apparently, the wires in the connector are fragile. Also, someone mentioned that Subaru is voluntarily replacing this connector if it is cracked (not a recall, but voluntary replacement if it is cracked from normal wear). After the pads are installed and the ground terminal reconnected, it says to "apply and release the parking brake five times and ensure that the brake works normally". I will be replacing front and rear brakes and rotors on my 2018 Outback. 86k and no brake problems, so I am doing rotors at the same time. Using the Power Stop semi-coated rotors and ceramic pads kit from RockAuto, which, with delivery, was $10 cheaper than Amazon with free delivery.

[@3igger1]

Thank you! It saves me $700 brake job. I did follow your procedure and It works for 2016 Outback with eyesight. EPB still functioning good! 🙌👊👍!

[@built4u2]

Thanks for the much needed help! Make sure you guys exercise the parking brake and brake pedal a few times after you’re done to reset your calipers and pads!

[@CosmoWeems]

Thanks so much. I just completed the rear bakes on a 2018 Outback today. Shop would charge $375 to change rear pads. Also swap rotors which dont need to be changed. OI paid $70 for the OEM pads and saved $305 on just the rear!

[@Natedoc808]

Thanks for the video. Just doing my wife’s 2015 outback with 74K on it for the first time, she only waited a month to tell me the brakes were making noise :-) damn electric E brake had me stumped

[@andrewpettersson]

Love your stuff, mate. Managed to change the brakepads of my 2018 Crosstrek/XV based on the info from your video - the brakes are mostly identical. I am pleasantly surprised that the car even stops now. The piston retractor kit is pretty good for the money it costs. Cheers!

[@kddavis1]

I appreciate the advice. I saved money on special tools by using the wrench that came with my die grinder. Fit perfectly. No slipping. Very easy to turn.

[@bruceyyyyy]

That's a great hack! I have all kinds of those. I tried using a set of needle nose pliers before and it was miserable.

[@TboneDuggins]

WOW that s great discovery!

[@kevinoconnor5597]

Great video! First time changing brakes on my Subaru Outback. What's smoother then breaks I've changed in the past. Your video was spot on

[@bruceyyyyy]

Glad it could help!

[@86Carrera911]

I looked at a couple other videos, but yours had the best details and narrative. Thanks! I should have watched before getting started, because I would have gotten the brake tool an not spent almost an hour and a half finding one! Get the tool, even if you just rent it!!!

[@bostonlover6080]

I haven't done this job yet. I do have the same piston compression tool shown in the video to wind the piston back in as it's being compressed back into the caliper. I suspect that the combination of rotating the piston in and then pressing it in without rotation is a result of the thread pitch (threads per inch) on the tool being different from the thread pitch on the internal screw inside the parking brake actuator that drives the back side of the piston when applying the parking brake. Curious to hear what others think. The official shop manual does say it's OK to use the wind back tool to compress the piston as shown in the video, but it does seem safer to remove the parking brake motor assembly and wind back the internal screw manually as shown on other videos, which will avoid putting excessive pressure on the gears that are in the actuator. I think the actuator is designed to take a high rpm motor and gear it down so it can drive the internal screw slowly but with great force. Turning the screw with the wind back tool rotates the internal gear set in the opposite direction, with a small amount of rotation resulting in a large amount of rotation in the motor. It seems like that would put more pressure on the gears than they're designed to handle. If you're going to use the wind back tool, it might be safer to frequently readjust the threaded thrust nut on the tool as you wind back the piston, to (sort of) continuously compensate for the difference in thread pitch, rather than waiting until the piston stops allowing any further rotation. This is all just guesswork, I haven't seen a description of the internal workings of the actuator.

[@ce2flaco]

I didn't have the tool. I had no idea I needed it until I was well into the job. I ended up using needlenose pliers in the holes and turning them until it bottomed out. then compressing the piston the last bit with a clamp.

[@bruceyyyyy]

I've done that myself. It's doable but that tool certainly makes the job easier.

[@ce2flaco]

@@bruceyyyyy Agreed. I wish I had looked at your video ahead of time. I thought it's just brakes. Done them a hundred times... apparently not on this type, lol. I'll be picking up the caliper kit soon for future use on both cars.

[@techthrive9720]

Finally someone who can show it properly you just saved me a boatload of money

[@Cantante1963]

Thanks for the video,but next time please use a jack stand.

[@lbl934]

Great video. Used the video to change rear brake pads on 2015 Outback with my son. Just a few comments. Used a 6 instead of 7 for caliper. Not a significant difference when turning the parking brake with either one. But it was a lot easier using the caliper tool. Had a difficult time installing the brake pads without the clip onto the bracket. Had to brush off the rusted surface of the bracket. If the brake pads were difficult to remove from the brackets, consider brushing the rust off the contact area. Thanks Bruce for the video.

[@TrateMusic]

Thank you twice! You helped my dad and i with replacing my mom's brakes, and you gave me a great gift idea for Father's Day!

[@honkycat121]

Recommend disconnecting the electric parking break cable. Pulled the wires doing my 2015 Outback’s rear breaks and had to buy a harness because new cars suck to work on.

[@rickp9951]

Very good video. Using that $20 retracting tool was easiest part of job and EPB no alarms, all working 100 % after done with job. But as an older person with less agility, I found that removing the 2 - 7 MM hex caliper slides made installation of the pads very easy. Then the problem arose, very hard to get both slides threaded into pad bracke with new shoes installed. Get one installed and left loose and other slide was hard to get started threaded in. Finally got it done but worried for a bit.

[@bruceyyyyy]

Good info! Thanks for sharing here. It might help someone else. (:

[@redcloudltd]

If you don't have a wind back tool, I used a grinder spanner. One pin in the slot and the other pin on the outside of the cylinder.. Worked a treat.

[@bruceyyyyy]

That's a great alternative! I used needle nosed pliers on a Jeep and it was a complete pain.

[@mzzzz7331]

Nice video. You used a scissor jack on your stone parking area. I didn't see a jack stand. If there was one, and it was on the stones, please be aware of that jack gave the weight of the vehicle onto the stand onto the gravel would've let the jack sink into the gravel... Putting you at great risk of being hit or worse pinned. Recommend using a 2x10 as a footing, even with the jack (toss that thing and by a floor jack!)

[@nickb6768]

Couldn't get the last bit in till I saw your video. Thanks man

[@willschultz5452]

I was told you HAD TO go to the dealer and they had to retract the parking brake using a computer hooked to the OBD port🙄 I was told there was no other way to do it without breaking it, apparently that's not the case! Thank you

[@frankweathersbee2553]

Some vehicles in the radio 7nder controls you can set calipers into service mode which retracts the calipers.

[@bruceyyyyy]

I've done this with Mazdas but am not aware of Subaru having this feature.

[@kcirmusic1]

That is an excellent video. My 2017 Outback has 66K miles on it and just got it back from the dealer where they did the 60K service. They recommend a transmission fluid change and noted the front brake pads are at 8mm and the rear brakes are at 6mm. I'll change out the pads myself thanks to your video.

[@kennethwers]

Safety tip, If you don't have jackstands. Slid the tire under the car when working on it. The brake wrench can likely be renter from the parts store.

[@tedwalton6985]

Many thanks, was having some choice words for getting the pads in until I watched video and realized that piston not pushed in all the way.

[@stevej4709]

Just wanted to say thanks! Watching you use the parking brake tool convinced me to stop using the needle nose plyer method - from previous cars...I bought the 20 kit from amazon and wow...so much easier.

[@Deerwoodrealty]

Thank you for this video! I changed the rear rotors and pads on my 15 Subaru today with 0 issues...😊

[@jlabate1]

This video is exactly what I needed. I will say though I found it much easier to remove the brake line bolt near the caliper. With the new pads mine did not slide on as easily as yours. Thanks again man.

[@williamtuttle8231]

Thank you for the excellent video. Concise and to the job without a lot of unnecessary talk.

[@SambSylla]

You did not disconnect the battery, you did not disconnect the connector, you did not use Subaru select monitor. Did your car refuses to start with blinking brake light?

[@jima4146]

Excellent!!!!!!! Thank you! I did it. No other resources needed. (2016 Outback)

[@TheLadeef]

i used a pair of needle nose pliers and spun the piston, worked fine if you don't want to buy a tool.

[@toknowlj]

I have a 2014 outback and thankfully it is much different. Ive had older legacy that had to be screwed in as this one you did. it sure would be much easier with the tool kit you have. Thank you for your instructions

[@EricKemper]

You saved my tail with the e-brake advice. Thank you!!

[@crappie624]

As a guy who works on stuff like this every day it's best to put the car in Maintenance mode for any electric park brake set up not doing so can put it at risk of screwing up the caliper not saying it will but it can and that's another headache to deal with

[@DavidRamirez-gu5nh]

Thank you for uploading this video! Was able to get this done and save a ton of money.

[@errm1913]

Nice. It's crime how much shops get to do something this easy. I hate working on drum brakes! Grease those caliper pins too! Perhaps a piece of cardboard, an old towel/sheet under the wheel would help to not lose parts & tools in the leaves, and keep tools and parts out of the dirt. My old Saab also had 'screw-down' pistons. I made a tool with 2 1/8" bolts in a flat steel bar.

[@FloridaSpook]

You saved my ass! I used channel locks pliers to rotate my piston . Very gently!

[@danbranch1885]

Excellent! Good job in explaining the details and very “to the point” Thank you

[@jonfromroseville8146]

I like how u run to grab the zip tie

[@DosLobos]

Safety tip taught by my mechanic father. When you take off the wheel put it under the subframe of the car in case the jack fails. Especially if you've got it jacked up on the dirt and on a piece of wood. I've seen first hand cars tip off jacks and it isn't pretty 😢

[@bruceyyyyy]

Yup! I typically use a jack and jack stands but was trying to minimize the extra tools needed for this video.

[@KentuckyRanger]

It blows my mind, how small the pads are! The front pads are twice the size, LOL! I'd say the rear pads wear more quickly, because the EyeSight and X-Mode systems use them to slow the car? I guess Eyesight uses front and rear brakes, but I'm not sure about X-Mode.

[@rafranks1410]

Thanks for the video Brudeyyy! Now I can replace the pads on my wife's Legacy.

[@michaelrobinsonii4173]

Thanks... I got stuck after I twisted the piston and it bottomed out. It would've taken awhile probably to figure out to compress like a normal break job after🤔... when in doubt, KZbin it out.

[@bruceyyyyy]

Glad I could help! I've used a c clamp and some channel locks to bottom out the Piston. Not sure the tool I demonstrate would be necessary if you already rotated the Piston.

[@michaelrobinsonii4173]

@@bruceyyyyy I have a piston compression tool, but I just used needle noses to twist the first portion. I'm contemplating buying that kit, I usually don't see those kinds of piston but now that I own a Subaru, I might give in

[@lifeisgood070]

Do you have to rotate the piston back clockwise after to engage it? I assume rotating it counterclockwise disengaged something.

[@michaelrobinsonii4173]

@@lifeisgood070 righty tighty, lefty loosey... the piston will automatically re-engage the disc once the installation is completed, reassembled, you turn the car on and allow the brake pressure to build (via pumping brake pedal). For a firmer brake pedal, you can bleed the lines from the pistons. I'm not sure if the Outbacks master cylinders have a bleed valve as well, but that could possibly be done as well. I would have to check. I didn't bleed mine and with about 4 to 5 pumps with the car idling, break pressure was back to about the same. Honestly I was pressed for time and being lazy.

[@bruceyyyyy]

@@lifeisgood070 Just bottom it out. The first time it's used it will recalibrate itself.

[@supahr_ed]

Thanks Bruce! I tried finding a DIY on the forums (unsuccessful) but everyone kept saying you need a "special" tool for the EPB. But I guess they were just referring to a Brake Piston tool (which is normal to me OR use needle nose pliers) 🤷🏾‍♂️

[@bruceyyyyy]

I've used needle nose and they suck. This is a definite winner.

[@supahr_ed]

@@bruceyyyyy Yup, I'm ordering since my other car is also a screw in Piston. BTW, I've followed your threads and videos since 2015 and your videos are even better now! Keep making maintenance 101 videos!

[@bruceyyyyy]

The screw in style rear seems to be more and more common. I just worked on a 2012 Prius that had it too. Glad you enjoy me being silly on the internet! I will continue doing so.

[@danielschuessler1608]

Thanks for the video. Just finished my brakes and this was a great resource. Used needle nosed pliers and they worked fine, though the tool you had would have made it easier.

[@bruceyyyyy]

I used needle nose in another video and while it worked these were a lot easier. Glad I could help!

[@morganwareham4216]

First time changing my rear breaks in my outback lucky my advanced autoparts store rents out calliper tool kits. Video was super helpful thank you so much.

[@boblemay6539]

BRAKES

[@Onix_1962]

TY buddy, very much appreciated. Now I go tackle my Rear Brakes. Like a pro(ish)

[@leanall-williams4872]

My husbands sends you many thanks and blessings thank you so much!

[@mh1art870]

Great video, I have a question, so when you change the rear brakes and rotors you have to deactivate the parking brake? I seen a video where a guy used a scan tool to retract the rear brake in and finished off by manually pressing in the piston all the way in, do you need the scan tool or dude was just being fancy?

[@V.is.for.Vae.Victus]

So basically it works exactly like almost every single piston rear disc brake setup ever made, with or without electric parking attached. Pushes out, spins back in. Also, with any ABS system, you should crack the bleeder valve before compressing the piston, bleed old fluid while you're down there, and add fresh in the reservoir.

[@bruceyyyyy]

It didn't work like any other Subaru rear brake I've ever worked on. The electronic parking brake is a major change over the older mechanical ones that had a drum in the rear brake in addition to the rear rotor.

[@V.is.for.Vae.Victus]

@@bruceyyyyy Yes, granted, I was meaning resetting the main caliper is the standard procedure, nothing special. What's nice is in this case, the parking brake, being built into it, resets with it.

[@bruceyyyyy]

@@V.is.for.Vae.Victus I've only ever used channel locks to push in the caliper before. Haha. I used needle nose pliers to wind the electronic piston in but it's a total pain to do and kinda sours the entire experience.

[@V.is.for.Vae.Victus]

@@bruceyyyyy Agreed on the needle nose pliers. Great way to stab your hand is what those are. Lol

[@bruceyyyyy]

I get enough tears on my hands to not recommend using needle nose pliers. Lol

[@aamirmoinuddin9904]

Great video Thank you. I have a 2016 Subaru Outback 3.6L. Just to make sure you are saying I don't need a computer to collapse the e-brake ? just use the tool you showed with various disc's. Just want to be sure before I open up and do the job. Thanks in advance for your reply.

[@bruceyyyyy]

Yup. I'm not sure why some are saying a scan tool is necessary because what I did here is even listed in the factory manual for changing brakes.

[@aamirmoinuddin9904]

@@bruceyyyyy Thanks for your reply. Big help.

[@AudioAdvisory38]

dang you run fast. as I have gotten more experience, it surprises me how little grease is needed. one could get by with greasing the pins only.

[@bruceyyyyy]

I actually forgot to grease the pins here but should have. The different style than I'm used to threw me off. The clip, electronic brake, and lack of bolts holding the caliper to the bracket was all new to me.

[@AudioAdvisory38]

@@bruceyyyyy my first thought. Subaru stole the Chrysler clip.

[@ggevorky]

@@bruceyyyyy So there aren't any metal clips that go on the pads? Are the front brakes completely different from the rear?

[@bruceyyyyy]

@@ggevorky I haven't needed to change the front brakes yet but figure they're typical. The rears do not have the typical metal clip.

[@marktucker696]

Thank you so much for this video! I opened the box with the pads and had no idea what I was looking at. Thanks to your video I was able to change the brakes with no worries. I had bought a kit like yours a few years ago, and now know what it's for! Thanks again.

[@jamespehrson9465]

Thanks for the video. Enjoy your time on the beach.

[@graniteridgegreens6278]

I use copper grease for slider nubs, doesn't wah off as easy especially in this North eastern ontario Canada area.

[@verticalchallenger]

Definitely want to grease those pins so they don’t gum up and stick.

[@dabneyoffermein595]

The bedding brake procedure might be for doing all 4 at the same time, seems like that might hurt the pre-existing front brakes, not sure but it's more of a question than a correction?

[@bruceyyyyy]

I would imagine it puts a minimal amount of wear on the front brakes. They should be fine in my experience.

[@paulauksztulewicz4803]

Got a lifted 2015 Outback that just now needs breaks at 148K. Did you also replace the front with same brand (Powerstop)? Someone mentioned clips that come with kid don't fit and need to be filed down, or use OEM clips.

[@bruceyyyyy]

I did. I have a video on them and not long after replaced them with Ascent brake calipers/rotors/pads.

[@bobweck1317]

Hey Brucey, I'm doing my rear brakes on my 2015 Outback now. I was looking at another video by another guy and as he manually retracted the EPB, he turned it lefty loosey on the driver side and righty tighty on the passenger side. On your video, you went righty tighty on the driver. Any thoughts? Also, I got the tool you suggested. On your video, you first retracted the EPB with the tool and then readjusted the position of the tool to further compress the cylinder and the tool, that time, was a little off-center from the parking brake disc that had the 2 notches in it. Was the off-centeredness of the tool deliberate so the tool would more hit the rim of the cylinder and not directly press on the EPB disc any more? Lastly, the dude in the other video made a comment about the notches in the EPB disc that you had rotated as needing to be aligned with the nub that sticks out of the pad's backing plate so that the nub would not hit the flat part of the disc and cause uneven wear on the pad. Rather, he was saying the nub on the backing plate had to fit into one of the notches of the EPB disc. What say you, Captain Subie?

[@bruceyyyyy]

I don't think it's that selective with working on the brakes. I had it off center because that's where it seated. I've used the tool dozens of times since then and it's not my favorite way of pushing in typical brake pistons.

[@bobweck1317]

@@bruceyyyyy Gracias, Señor👍!

[@jonathanrylander9354]

Thank you! I appreciate the walk-through.

[@Subariblet]

Thanks for the video. Fortunately I already had that same brake kit. Good tip on the zip ties.

[@danrunner84]

Worked like a charm. Thank you.

[@reamorama]

Excellent walk through

[@frankcuria9735]

So you dont have to remove the electronic parking brake ? Hmm , most other videos i have watched show them remove the parking brake from the back of the caliper before depressiing the piston back in.

[@Brendalo1]

I found using a electric cut off tool , side grinder "bit changing wrench" it has the same fork pattern for about 5$, bonus if you have a grinder you have a back up wrench . if you turn it with the tool, about a 1/2 turn a common C clamp pushes down the piston fine it down fine, it the bleeding is why I'm cruzing do you have videos on bleeding? regards

[@matthewstorm5188]

I never bother with greasing brake pads. Not only do you risk getting grease on the friction material. But it is going to quickly become contaminated and dry up on the pad, rendering the whole idea of applying it in the first place pointless. I guarantee you that, two weeks after doing a brake job, any benefit of greasing brake pads will be GONE.

[@bennyg6115]

100% accurate

[@squirrelzar]

I just don’t get what you’d get by greasing the pad - isn’t the whole point that the friction slows the car down lmao

[@versustires5494]

Thanks for this. Never worked with an EPB before, followed your vid & it worked great. BTW - the link for your brake tool is dead. I didn't realize I needed one until I was 1/2 done, picked one up at Harbor Freight for $29.99.

[@bruceyyyyy]

Glad I could help! Thanks for the update, I'll find a new link.

[@Grich240]

Thank you for the excellent video

[@NickBeek]

Since you didn't use a scanner to disable the parking brake system, was there any issue with using the parking brake or any codes generated after the job was complete?

[@bruceyyyyy]

Nope

[@NickBeek]

@@bruceyyyyy thank you.

[@AnythingAuto]

So you don't have to put the vehicle into service mode to retract the rear caliper piston? When I did it the piston would only rotate so far then stop. Wasn't enough to fit in the resr brqke pad so had to use a scanner to put into service mode

[@bruceyyyyy]

What vehicle? I didn't have to do that on mine but it might be different for other ones.

[@victoryang2094]

If i need to replace my electronic calipers would I need to replace it with a device? On a 2015 subaru outback

[@michellek.5775]

Hello, nice video and thanks for documenting. I need to also change out my rotors; could you have just continued on and removed/replaced your rotors using this method? Anything you would have done different? Thanks!

[@bruceyyyyy]

Yup! Should not be an issue. Just bang the rotors off if you want to do them as well.

[@jamesancona3590]

This was really helpful. Thank you for making this video.

[@danpea.6580]

I have a 2022 forester with EPB, and im reading i need a code reader to replace the pads to out the EPB in repair mode, i wonder if yours is much different? Have you heard of this?

[@nddiangelo]

Dumb question, do you leave the car in the on position in order to retract the EPB all the way until it is flush with the caliper?

[@torreVs]

Don't forget to lubricate brake caliper slide pins next time. Urte Berri On!

[@bruceyyyyy]

What's funny is I usually do when changing brakes but it didn't occur to me to do so here from the different design. Good catch Torre!

[@cappy032]

I seen a mechanic say that by disconnecting the negative battery side that you won't have the issue with that piece coming out by the the way I took it.

[@abn2684]

Anyone know if you have to unplug the battery and if u need to disconnect the harness to the rear brakes?

[@bruceyyyyy]

I did neither of those things.

[@jamesws3]

Interesting, thanks! Curious why the first part of piston compression involved turning while the final part was old school "just press inwards"? Your version seems much simpler than the people who insist on removing the entire parking brake assembly from the caliper. Why do they do that if you showed it to be un-needed?

[@bruceyyyyy]

The rotating part of the electric parking brake. It's attached to an electric motor. The normal part is the normal brake piston. I'm not sure why others would use a different method. This seemed fairly easy. The book says you can unbolt just one brake caliper bolt and rotate the assembly. Would have to disconnect the plug on the bottom. Might be easier.

[@jamesws3]

@@bruceyyyyy Thanks. You had no need to remove the parking brake assembly and expose the splined shaft as some others have shown. Seems like an unnecessary step an an invitation to something going wrong. Will replace both pads and rotes when due and lube with silicone grease.

[@coleslawjones3317]

Thanks bub. Just bought that tool

[@davidbelcher5331]

Quick question….a guy at the shop said you can’t get the E brake piston to retract far enough by rotating it….obviously this wasn’t true for you but do you think it matters if replacing the rotors???

[@bruceyyyyy]

Everyone I've spoken with has been able to replace rotors if desired.

[@davidbelcher5331]

@@bruceyyyyy thanks for the reply and great content!

[@alainfroment6034]

Thanks Bruce! your video is very helper, my question is Wat we cant do if we dont have the tool to push the cylender? Wat we can use?

[@bruceyyyyy]

I've used needle nose pliers. It's difficult to do but not impossible.

[@BB-th5qr]

Excellent video. Thanks!

[@jonsimonson]

What are the torque specs on the bolts at the end?

[@wjztusa]

I couldn’t install my new pad on my rear wheel! Because the E break couldn’t completely wind down! There was no enough space for it! I got the wind down tools that u recommend, any tip to wind down the E Break? I don’t want damage my E Break! Thx

[@michaelhughett8396]

You start by using the special tool and turning in the pistons. After they bottom out then you simply press the piston back with a C clamp or just use a flat adapter on the special tool. This will push the piston back the rest of the way to get the pads in.

[@benedickdavid3534]

I was wondering how you got your piston to bottom out more(8:45). I initially compressed mine with the caliper compressor, but didn't fully bottom out similar to yours at 6:44. Had to remove the electronic mechanism and it helped me compress the piston down more to fit the new pads over the rotors.

[@jlweck231978]

I know you posted this a year ago but just incase I will respond. With a wind back tool, you will wind/twist the piston back in. That doesn't get it all the way in so the rest of the way you press it straight back in. With my wind back tool I then used a wrench to rotate/tighten the nut to push the ouston in without rotating. Or you can use a c clamp at that point.

[@silvernoob1603]

lucky i watched this, didn't realise you also need to push the piston back in AFTER turning it all the way back in.

[@crazy1kid]

Did this outback have eyesight? If so I thought you have to put the system in brake maintenance mode. Do I have that wrong?

[@bruceyyyyy]

Yes, it has Eyesight. No, I didn't put it in brake maintenance mode.

[@jandawood1234]

Great video. Quick question, when you tightened the caliper bolts, what did you torque them to?

[@bruceyyyyy]

I think the 14mm were 20 lb ft and the 17mm were 60 lb ft off the top of my head.

[@southparklion]

My mechanic said that he had to recalibrate the breaks - not sure if that was the e-parking brake or the entire system. Is that a thing? Whatever he did, I paid $175 after tax and got OEM rear pads, so I'm fine with it.

[@dannyscarpati7049]

your mechanic did it the right way. im a tech and i use a scanner then recalibrate. its the way subaru wants it done. remember, just because you can dont mean you should. from a profesional stand point i cant risk damage to a customers caliper.

[@andrewvillavicencio8496]

Awesome, thanks. Do you know how many mm apart the number 7 plates' "nipples" are? I am also looking at the service manual and the rotors for the 17" wheels are 30mm (factory) with a wear minimum of 28mm. Problem is my car has 18". Would it be the same for the 18"? Trying to determine if I need new rotors as well. Car has 59K miles on it.

[@VincentDzinh]

@5:52 for that piece #7 what is the distance between the 2 pins (center to center)? thanks.

[@bobweck1317]

Hey, Bud....awesome video. Really appreciate it. Question....some videos show using a scanner tool to (I assume) disengage the electric parking brake. So, the manner in which you did it mechanically by turning it with the tool you purchased totally bypasses the need for the electronic instrument and there is no damage done to the electric parking brake assembly? You had disengaged the electric parking brake before doing the job, so I assumed it would automatically been retracted, yet you obviously had to mechanically retract it. I don't fully understand the internal workings of the electric e-brake. Thanks again.

[@bruceyyyyy]

So if you've got the scanner use it. I did this job on a Mazda and it was very similar but it had a secret code to retract so no tool needed. But Subartu does not have it so it's mechanical tool or electric scan tool. I released it but it still can't retract enough on it's own for service. There is an electric motor on the back that drives the piston for parking but otherwise it can operate as a standard brake piston as well.

[@bobweck1317]

@@bruceyyyyy Gracias. Thanks for the input.

[@bobweck1317]

One other question...have you found any decent repair manuals? I have a 2015 Outback 2.5i Premium. The local Subie dealer is useless to figure out what they can/cannot provide (which would probably be a buttload of $$$). There are a number of options online, some of which are just in digital/PDF format. Curious if you found a good resource. At the local parts stores, your basic Haynes and Chiltons were not available in my year. Gracias.

[@bruceyyyyy]

@@bobweck1317 I don't think there are Haynes or equivalent for these yet. I've seen bootleg pdf of the factory manual. Probably a worthwhile investment if you plan on keeping it and working on it yourself.

[@charlesasimonsjr]

Now, all kiy lights are on. Brakes work fine...but the parking brke no longer engages, the hill assist and the RAB are not working

[@johnmazz7788]

Very helpful. Thank you for posting

[@eugenegutierrez5106]

Glad saw this video. The tools to spin piston what does it called and can I buy it at any auto parts store? Thx.

[@lowlifeangler]

This was brake job simple compared to the GM starbit. I changed my stock pads on my 2018 after a 2 week Trip out west and South Carolina.

[@bruceyyyyy]

I've changed some before that had red thread lock AND 12 point head on the caliper bolts (Fiat) and I am not sure if they're meant to be replaced every time or not.